Everybody's favourite uncle -- Night Shift -- has also put up a great tutorial on weathering metal tracks today. His videos are the best of the best, so make sure you check it out too: th-cam.com/video/6_ih23_-Gv0/w-d-xo.html
I'm just now assembling my first set of Friulmodel Brand metal tracks! (received this week from Poland!)I wonder how they mold these with the trackpin holes drilled in there!!? This weathering video is just what I was looking for! NOW all I need is to find out where I can order these metal etching products... it seems no Hobby suppliers in the USA carrythese items I've had to order from MIG or AK. We shall see if there's any difference with this product. My go to Hobby Store I've gone to since the early 60's is also good at ordering things in the past. Thanks!
Why am I posting the same video today? 🤣 Also, burnishing ftw, even if you're gonna cover it all with mud, the burnishing fluid gives the track a nice micro-texture which serves as a good base for paints. It's almost like a self-etching primer. Also also, I think this T-40 is your best model so far!
Lol yeah, after I saw your video last week, what you said in the end made me think that this might be a possibility...guess our pre-upload schedules lined up nicely. Well two videos are better than one....everybody does it a little differently so different points of view are awesome. I'll link yours in a pinned comment...in 5 minutes or whatever :D
I found that the key to using the burnishing fluid is getting the tracks CLEAN. Oils from your hands will nullify the effects of the fluid, leaving bare spots. Use gloves a good degreasing detergent and a toothbrush to thoroughly scrub the tracks. Rinse with water and let completely dry prior to applying the fluid. Once the tracks obtain the desired look it is a good idea to stop the chemical reaction. This prevents the fluid from eating through the wire track pins. A few minutes in a solution of water and baking soda will do the trick. Let dry and you're good to go. Hope this helps
Next time try weathering the links before you assemble the track runs. Then simply place the weathered links in a small sealed jar and gently shake it for 30 seconds or so. You’ll get almost Instant burnishing on the high points that can be adjusted simply by how long you choose to shake. Assemble the tracks with dark wire or touch each assembled pin with a fine brush dipped in burnishing liquid to darken them.
You can also try soaking metal in a sodium carbonate solution. I use Arm and Hammer brand "Super Washing Soda"; you can get a big box for cheap in a grocery store. I've used this method on brass and copper, and it creates a hard, permanent (?) black/dark brown layer. Not sure how it would work with white metals though. Also, you'd have to plan ahead, because it isn't a fast process- it'll take a few weeks of soaking. But, at least it is cheap and also non-toxic.
WOW...I like your Easy Eight. I'd LOVE to see ya finish that one. I dont think I've ever seen you do an American tank 🤔 also, I've always been a tank guy but I've been hangin around here long enough I think I got bit by the STUG BUG 😂🤣
Thank you! The Easy Eight is one of my next projects to paint. I want to weather an american tank next, to it's either that one or the T29E3 I built last year. Oh and I did a Canadian Sherman a long, long time ago...probably before my videos...so I really need to do more allied armour, you're right!
Looks great Evan! I like the way burnishing fluid makes metal tracks look natural and you really could leave them as is if the tank was in a dry environment. Cheers!
Another great video! Thanks! I could never understand why this stuff is called "Burnishing Fluid", though. I always thought it should be called "Tarnishing Fluid". To "burnish" something is to make it look shiny. To "tarnish" something is to make it look worn or stained through wear (i.e. oxidation). I think it all started with MIG Productions. It's a Spanish company, of course. Mig Jimenez's command of the English language wasn't that good, to start- I've read some of his older English-Language articles. It's gotten much better of course, but I don't put much trust in his company's use of the word "burnish"! :)
Awesome, very useful video! Metal tracks can achieve a degree of realism plastic tracks will never give you! Your T-40 looks beautiful, i think its one of your best pieces so far in my opinion!
Thank you! I am very happy with the T-40. In the video I said it was done....but now I realize I didn't add any snow to the tracks. I might have to put some on.
Also, I've used burnishing fluid on old cars and metal furniture. It SHOULD BE like thinner. You should be able to save it and reuse it SEVERAL TIMES 🤔
I'll try that next time. When I used the same fluid to burnish the second run of tracks it took a little more time, but it still worked OK. I'm not quite sure of the chemistry involved so it might very well be useable for a number of tracks, which would surely help with the cost of these products.
Weve used lemon or any kind of citrus juice on old cars and gotten good effects but those tracks could be a differnt story but it might be worth a try 🤔
Yeah I'm just trying to figure out how to make the lenses. They are like early T-34 lenses so they have a unique grid pattern to them so I can't just use clear PVA. I'll check out Elf.
Great job. The only thing I do differently is I burnish them in the fluid before I assemble them. I feel they get much better coverage in the burnishing fluid that way. But either way works great on metal tracks. Cheers!
Okay... you convinced me (great review). I'm going to order this for my 1/16 RC Panther with metal tracks. Regardless of Night Shifts video, you did a great job. This video, and the one you did on the "R-Model" metal tracks were great. I was thinking to myself, "He should do reviews more often!" Too bad you don't have affiliate links to these products.
I believe MR Modelbau in Germany sells a set of different diameter clear plastic headlight lenses. Voyager also sells headlight lenses, but I’m not sure if they do for your particular model.
Im guessing this is no longer in production. One thing that does bother me is the small size. You'd think for what this is used for, we would be given a larger bottle.
I saw someone use clear sprue heated then pushed into foil it shaped like mushroom sorry can't remember who maybe might jog someones memory about making headlights been wondering what to do with the metal tracks Cheer's
save some money and buy a big bottle of Birchwood Casey Perma Blue Liquid Gun Blue from Amazon. Does the same thing and will last you a very long time. I've been using the same bottle for a couple years now.
Yes, once I run out of this Wilder stuff (so like...one more tank) I will get a bottle of something more industrial. Blacken-it is a popular alternative; it's quite cheap and comes in a big bottle.
Maybe cleaning the tracks with IPA or something similar before rusting. There may have been some oil on the tracks where you had to go back over it with a brush. Just a random thought
A very nice Tiger on the thumbnail brother, I see you glued the pe parts nicely onto the model. I've been having trouble with choosing a good super glue for pe parts, can you recommend one you usually use?
Hello! I use Gorilla Glue Gel Superglue with the blue cap. It's very strong but takes about 5-10 seconds to set, so you have the chance to adjust the parts a little bit eight aster you've put them on. Better than most CA I've used.
Tracks look fantastic. Is this just a simple oxidation process? There must be some cheaper alternatives available around the house or at a hardware store maybe? Sounds like it’s time for some experimentation!
Lol e your videos they really help me to get through when I get modelers block. Can you tell me where I can get wilder's aqua line? Thanks and keep up the great work.
If you can you should try VMS Vantage modeling solutions track black track pro you will get a much better finish I use the VMS its amazing. Watch VMS Video on their track pro they have some awesome products I use most everything they make check them out
I never used any burnishing fluid myself, because i am quite satisfied with painting them, but this made me curious! Your result there is simply excellent. For lenses, you can either use some micro crystal clear, which might be not ideal for the big headlights there, your you cut your own lenses out of clear packing material, like the one Alpine uses for the figures. I always keep these boxes in reserve, in case i have to make my own lenses or windshield glass.
Thank you! For the lenses, well they have a grid pattern on them, so I didn't think I could use crystal clear or clear PVA. But if I use your idea of clear plastic, I could scribe the lines on the lenses before mounting them to the lights. That should be easier!
@@Panzermeister36 AK interactive sell lenses for this kit Evan and I think Voyager models may do. Heated clear sprue pressed into the lamp holder will give you the form that you need and you can put the grid pattern on with a warm blade. 😉👍
If I’m not mistaken you’re in Canada? Where do you purchase your Wilder products? I’m in the Toronto area I contacted Wilder and they do not ship to Canada. Thanks for another great video!
Well I got this burnishing fluid sent to me by Wilder a few years ago. I did also buy some Wilder stuff, and the only Canadian distributor was Hornet Hobbies in Toronto. They've closed down so I'm not sure what to do now. I've picked up some AK products from my local shop here in Ottawa instead. Wheels and Wings Hobbies in Toronto has AK and Mig stuff I believe, which works the same way for the most part.
LOL burnishing metal does NOT mean weathering! it means the opposite, it means polishing to a bright high shine! what idiot told youthis is burnishing! IT IS ANTIQUEING, OXIDIZING, OR AGEING.
![[TH] 2024 PMSL SEA Finals D1 | Fall | ยิงต้องโหด ให้เหมือนโกรธกันมาก่อน](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/OnTdfGySmds/mqdefault.jpg)
Everybody's favourite uncle -- Night Shift -- has also put up a great tutorial on weathering metal tracks today. His videos are the best of the best, so make sure you check it out too:
th-cam.com/video/6_ih23_-Gv0/w-d-xo.html
I'm just now assembling my first set of Friulmodel Brand metal tracks! (received this week from Poland!)I wonder how they mold these with the trackpin holes drilled in there!!?
This weathering video is just what I was looking for! NOW all I need is to find out where I can order these metal etching products... it seems no Hobby suppliers in the USA carrythese items I've had to order from MIG or AK. We shall see if there's any difference with this product. My go to Hobby Store I've gone to since the early 60's is also good at ordering things in the past.
Thanks!
See if you can buy "Blacken-it" at your local art or craft store. It should work very similarly.
Why am I posting the same video today? 🤣
Also, burnishing ftw, even if you're gonna cover it all with mud, the burnishing fluid gives the track a nice micro-texture which serves as a good base for paints. It's almost like a self-etching primer.
Also also, I think this T-40 is your best model so far!
Lol yeah, after I saw your video last week, what you said in the end made me think that this might be a possibility...guess our pre-upload schedules lined up nicely.
Well two videos are better than one....everybody does it a little differently so different points of view are awesome. I'll link yours in a pinned comment...in 5 minutes or whatever :D
@@Panzermeister36 I had the same idea lol, I'll link yours too 😄
Yay modelling buddies 🍻
@@Panzermeister36 The unexpected collab nobody saw coming, not even us
Get a room
I found that the key to using the burnishing fluid is getting the tracks CLEAN. Oils from your hands will nullify the effects of the fluid, leaving bare spots. Use gloves a good degreasing detergent and a toothbrush to thoroughly scrub the tracks. Rinse with water and let completely dry prior to applying the fluid. Once the tracks obtain the desired look it is a good idea to stop the chemical reaction. This prevents the fluid from eating through the wire track pins. A few minutes in a solution of water and baking soda will do the trick. Let dry and you're good to go. Hope this helps
Next time try weathering the links before you assemble the track runs. Then simply place the weathered links in a small sealed jar and gently shake it for 30 seconds or so. You’ll get almost Instant burnishing on the high points that can be adjusted simply by how long you choose to shake. Assemble the tracks with dark wire or touch each assembled pin with a fine brush dipped in burnishing liquid to darken them.
You can also try soaking metal in a sodium carbonate solution. I use Arm and Hammer brand "Super Washing Soda"; you can get a big box for cheap in a grocery store. I've used this method on brass and copper, and it creates a hard, permanent (?) black/dark brown layer. Not sure how it would work with white metals though. Also, you'd have to plan ahead, because it isn't a fast process- it'll take a few weeks of soaking. But, at least it is cheap and also non-toxic.
You can filter the residual burnishing fluid (for later use) as you return it to its original container/bottle. Just food for thought.
Thank you. I will note that for next time!
Good shout out for night shift Evan. Love his vids too. Nice demo on the metal tracks mate . Good share. Cheers
WOW...I like your Easy Eight. I'd LOVE to see ya finish that one. I dont think I've ever seen you do an American tank 🤔 also, I've always been a tank guy but I've been hangin around here long enough I think I got bit by the STUG BUG 😂🤣
Thank you! The Easy Eight is one of my next projects to paint. I want to weather an american tank next, to it's either that one or the T29E3 I built last year. Oh and I did a Canadian Sherman a long, long time ago...probably before my videos...so I really need to do more allied armour, you're right!
Looks great Evan! I like the way burnishing fluid makes metal tracks look natural and you really could leave them as is if the tank was in a dry environment. Cheers!
Well, there is many kind of burnish for metal. I only know Metal Burnish of AK interactive. It's very helpful to study.
Tank looks AWESOME! Between Night Shift and you, I am definitely convinced on using burnishing fluid on my next metal track model
Just ordered some Fruil tracks for the first time, never done them before so this vid couldn't have come at a better time 😂👍 great looking T-40 bud
Excellent tutorial, the tracks (and tank) turned out great 👍 I loved this series of videos, keep up the good work!
Your tips are excellent, you have got talent. 👌
Another great video! Thanks!
I could never understand why this stuff is called "Burnishing Fluid", though. I always thought it should be called "Tarnishing Fluid". To "burnish" something is to make it look shiny. To "tarnish" something is to make it look worn or stained through wear (i.e. oxidation).
I think it all started with MIG Productions. It's a Spanish company, of course. Mig Jimenez's command of the English language wasn't that good, to start- I've read some of his older English-Language articles. It's gotten much better of course, but I don't put much trust in his company's use of the word "burnish"! :)
That is a good point. Tarnishing or oxidation fluid would be a better name...
I used to do some stained glass and we used a chemical to darken the lead or copper, to create a "patina" .... It might have been the same chemical.
Awesome, very useful video! Metal tracks can achieve a degree of realism plastic tracks will never give you! Your T-40 looks beautiful, i think its one of your best pieces so far in my opinion!
Thank you! I am very happy with the T-40. In the video I said it was done....but now I realize I didn't add any snow to the tracks. I might have to put some on.
Also, I've used burnishing fluid on old cars and metal furniture. It SHOULD BE like thinner. You should be able to save it and reuse it SEVERAL TIMES 🤔
I'll try that next time. When I used the same fluid to burnish the second run of tracks it took a little more time, but it still worked OK. I'm not quite sure of the chemistry involved so it might very well be useable for a number of tracks, which would surely help with the cost of these products.
Weve used lemon or any kind of citrus juice on old cars and gotten good effects but those tracks could be a differnt story but it might be worth a try 🤔
The easiest solution for lights is Molotow chrome marker. You can also buy Elf lenses
Yeah I'm just trying to figure out how to make the lenses. They are like early T-34 lenses so they have a unique grid pattern to them so I can't just use clear PVA. I'll check out Elf.
Love your videos and your soothing voice reminds me of the young guy in Zombieland 👍🏻🇦🇺
Great job. The only thing I do differently is I burnish them in the fluid before I assemble them. I feel they get much better coverage in the burnishing fluid that way. But either way works great on metal tracks. Cheers!
That is something I will try out in the future. Thank you for the tip!
Awesome!
Okay... you convinced me (great review). I'm going to order this for my 1/16 RC Panther with metal tracks. Regardless of Night Shifts video, you did a great job. This video, and the one you did on the "R-Model" metal tracks were great. I was thinking to myself, "He should do reviews more often!" Too bad you don't have affiliate links to these products.
I believe MR Modelbau in Germany sells a set of different diameter clear plastic headlight lenses. Voyager also sells headlight lenses, but I’m not sure if they do for your particular model.
Thank you. I'll take a look!
5 stars !!! It looks as if the vehicle had chosen the tracks or vice versa.
Thank you! It's always great when everything looks like it naturally belongs together!
Im guessing this is no longer in production. One thing that does bother me is the small size. You'd think for what this is used for, we would be given a larger bottle.
Yes, but you can buy equivalent products from AK Interactive, Mig AMMO, VMS, etc.
Keep them videos coming!!
I saw someone use clear sprue heated then pushed into foil it shaped like mushroom sorry can't remember who maybe might jog someones memory about making headlights been wondering what to do with the metal tracks Cheer's
save some money and buy a big bottle of Birchwood Casey Perma Blue Liquid Gun Blue from Amazon. Does the same thing and will last you a very long time. I've been using the same bottle for a couple years now.
Yes, once I run out of this Wilder stuff (so like...one more tank) I will get a bottle of something more industrial. Blacken-it is a popular alternative; it's quite cheap and comes in a big bottle.
Maybe cleaning the tracks with IPA or something similar before rusting. There may have been some oil on the tracks where you had to go back over it with a brush. Just a random thought
That's what I figured! Oil or maybe some clear varnish I was spraying got on them.
Maybe try some clear epoxy to the lenses after you use some chrome paint. Fill them up so they bubble so you get that round look.
Lens - What about the old MV Products lens the train guys use to use? You can still find them on E Bay
A very nice Tiger on the thumbnail brother, I see you glued the pe parts nicely onto the model. I've been having trouble with choosing a good super glue for pe parts, can you recommend one you usually use?
Hello! I use Gorilla Glue Gel Superglue with the blue cap. It's very strong but takes about 5-10 seconds to set, so you have the chance to adjust the parts a little bit eight aster you've put them on. Better than most CA I've used.
@@Panzermeister36 thank you for the suggestion, will definitely try gorilla glue, how did you glue those 2 flat pe sheets on the front fender?
Tracks look fantastic. Is this just a simple oxidation process? There must be some cheaper alternatives available around the house or at a hardware store maybe? Sounds like it’s time for some experimentation!
Yeah, a popular alternative is Blacken-it which you can get at Michael's cheap...and then use the 40% off coupon :)
Panzermeister36 I was even thinking something like vinegar or hydrogen peroxide.
Headlights. AK makes great 4mm clear headlights which fit this model. Good luck finding them however
I'll take a look. Thank you for the suggestion!
Lol e your videos they really help me to get through when I get modelers block. Can you tell me where I can get wilder's aqua line? Thanks and keep up the great work.
By the way, what Fruilmodel tracks did you use for that T30 kit in the video. I don’t see them on Fruilmodel’s website?
They're the ones marked for T-60 and possibly even SU-76.
Thank you; yes I suspected that was what you used.
If you can you should try VMS Vantage modeling solutions track black track pro you will get a much better finish I use the VMS its amazing. Watch VMS Video on their track pro they have some awesome products I use most everything they make check them out
I never used any burnishing fluid myself, because i am quite satisfied with painting them, but this made me curious! Your result there is simply excellent.
For lenses, you can either use some micro crystal clear, which might be not ideal for the big headlights there, your you cut your own lenses out of clear packing material, like the one Alpine uses for the figures. I always keep these boxes in reserve, in case i have to make my own lenses or windshield glass.
Thank you! For the lenses, well they have a grid pattern on them, so I didn't think I could use crystal clear or clear PVA. But if I use your idea of clear plastic, I could scribe the lines on the lenses before mounting them to the lights. That should be easier!
@@Panzermeister36
AK interactive sell lenses for this kit Evan and I think Voyager models may do.
Heated clear sprue pressed into the lamp holder will give you the form that you need and you can put the grid pattern on with a warm blade. 😉👍
Хорошая работа👍🏻
Спасибо!
Nice
If I’m not mistaken you’re in Canada? Where do you purchase your Wilder products? I’m in the Toronto area I contacted Wilder and they do not ship to Canada. Thanks for another great video!
Well I got this burnishing fluid sent to me by Wilder a few years ago. I did also buy some Wilder stuff, and the only Canadian distributor was Hornet Hobbies in Toronto. They've closed down so I'm not sure what to do now. I've picked up some AK products from my local shop here in Ottawa instead. Wheels and Wings Hobbies in Toronto has AK and Mig stuff I believe, which works the same way for the most part.
Mr meister that fluid is just basically antifreeze .. just a heads up
You can see? Regards David David? Can you please send me!
LOL burnishing metal does NOT mean weathering! it means the opposite, it means polishing to a bright high shine! what idiot told youthis is burnishing! IT IS ANTIQUEING, OXIDIZING, OR AGEING.
Idiot youth? AK interactive...Mig AMMO...all the brands call this burnishing fluid. I'm not sure why they do, but that's what the product is called.
That's got to be one of the ugliest tanks ever! Not your work on it of course, that's incredible, but the design of the tank itself!