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How to remove sleeve anchors (expansion bolts/dynabolts) [bolting for climbing]

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  • เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 ส.ค. 2024
  • It may be literally set in stone, but that doesn't mean you can't remove it!
    Sleeve anchors, AKA dynabolts, are a type of expansion bolt commonly used on rock climbs. Believe it or not, these can be pretty easy to remove, which comes in very handy when repairing or rebolting, as it means no new holes must be drilled. After all, the rock we climb is a non-renewable resource and every bit helps when it comes to preserving it.
    This also means that this style of bolt is useful for a temporary access anchor, or if you use them at home, now you know how to get them out before the landlord sees
    This is a repost of my original video from my other channel, Boltah Downunder, which focuses on rotary hammers & general power tool stuff
    • How to remove sleeve a...
    ▬ Contents of this video ▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬
    0:00 - Intro
    2:04 - Just remove the damn bolt!
    4:43 - How it works
    5:38 - What to do if it doesn’t come out so easily
    -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
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    Or mine: www.qldclimb.org.auYou can chip in here, it'll be hugely appreciated:
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    Cheers!

ความคิดเห็น • 6

  • @leeb.7188
    @leeb.7188 6 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

    This only works if your anchor sleeves are made of good quality metal. I used some cheap anchor wedges that came in a kit from China, and the metal is so soft that it completely managed and broke off when I tried trying turning it with small vice grips like yours.

  • @michaellinnett7786
    @michaellinnett7786 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    If the expansion bolt is still in good condition and it's just the hanger that spins, why not just tension up the nut? cheers, Mike

    • @MountainMullet
      @MountainMullet  ปีที่แล้ว +1

      In this case I think I replaced it because it would just keep loosening again. You can often just tighten the nut, but with wedge bolts they'll end up as a perma-spinner after a few rounds of that, because they jam up inside the hole. With sleeve bolts like this the nut tightens against the sleeve, not the rock, so this bolt would tighten up again but the hanger would still spin

  • @olenaerhardt7725
    @olenaerhardt7725 2 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

    I need to remove one expansion bolt from the Transmission Mount, since I want to replace that mount. In the car 2003 Chevy Cavalier, the Transmission Mount is attached to the subframe with 3-4 usual bolts and one expansion bolt, which is located at the center of the mount. No films about that process in details, but I saw one film where the author broke that expansion bolt on Chevy Transmission Mount. Please could you tell if the procedure of the removal of the expansion bolt on a car would be the same, as in this film? Do I also need those special tools to remove it? I have a Shop Manual for that car, and on the replacement of the Transmission Mount they don't say about any special tools, just say: Remove the Expansion Bolt, then remove other bolts. I would appreciate any opinion on this matter. Thank you for the great film.

    • @MountainMullet
      @MountainMullet  2 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

      I'm afraid I have no idea! I searched but couldn't find such a bolt, and never heard of expansion bolts in cars. But I can say the bolt in this video had the nut on the outside, so if there's a nut and a sleeve you can pull beneath the nut then it might be a similar thing. Perhaps asking on Reddit or quora might help

    • @olenaerhardt7725
      @olenaerhardt7725 2 หลายเดือนก่อน

      @@MountainMullet Thank you very much for the attention to my question. I watched both if your films and that way got a clear understanding how to work w/a Sleeve Bolt. The thing is that the central bolt in the Transmission Mount of 2003 Chevy Cavalier is of unknown nature, it is only known that it is an Expansion Bolt. But on Google I found the statement that you need to find out if the Expansion Bolt on the transmission mount is a Sleeve Bolt. If it is they advise w/a procedure explained in your film. But I suspect that it is smth different. Yesterday I looked at it, and it is a head of the usual bolt there, like 10mm, not a nut, which you can remove. The film, which points on the problem can be found if to type on YT "2003 chevy cavalier engine transmission mount". It is a film of the author Efurd Garage, he explains the problem. It is the only film on YT which addresses the problem. The author corrected the broken bolt w/welding, I don't do welding and won't be able to correct it that way. I feel that the Chevy is the only car w/that type of attachment of the Transmission Mount. Thank you again.