i heard you aren't supposed to use a torque wrench to ratchet and tighten things down, just use it at the end to torque it to spec, but i could be wrong, cheers.
It won't hurt the torque wrench any to do the ratcheting and so as to not go passed the torque (and so as to not need multiple tools) it's easiest just to do it with the torque wrench. Folks just don't like turning a bunch of bolts on a car with their nice ones so they use different ones to preserve their expensive tool, but it doesn't hurt the torque wrenches at all.
I used my torque wrench recently and over tightened/stripped the bolt. Its hard to detect the "click" & in fact it won't unless you hold straight down on the wrench/socket head.I would like to have a wrench that has a clutch so you can't over tighten. Do they make such a wrench ?
Im 100% certain a stainless hammer and a stainless nut is absolutly overkill. I work in the fab buisness and have done tons of stainless work, cross contamination dont happen in seconds, it takes months or years, so really only if you use a galvanized washer or some other bullshit. Also ive never seen stainless hammer or a stainless nut. Most shit i got is galvanized and cromangan my hammer is tool steel and my opineon is stated above.
Stainless hammer is not required but non stainless nut? Years long contact with galvanized nut would do no good to the bolt (corrosion). You usually buy the bolt with stainless nut as one package.
@@leagoo52 sorry translation issue, i dont mean the threaded nut, i mean the bit for tighning the nut. german "nuss" wchich directly translates to nut.
i would agree if there was any reason, but there isnt. use a stainless hamer if you want but dont tell anyone they should aswell. ive litteraly got a bolting permit from fischer and not even they say you should use a stinless hammer. and let me tell you, those guys really care about shit like that. also most everything i install with bolts is life depending, balconies, railings ect. also ive seen 20yo stainless bolts installed with steel tools, that have absolutly 0 corrosion, also if the nut has a tiny amount of surface rust the bolt is in no way compromised. to be really sure you need to use glue ins anyways.
@HochstartHarry it depends on the area you're in. If you live by the ocean the salt in the air will tend to corrode a multitude of metals if not treated properly. The hammer is a bit of a stretch but everything else is a legit precautionary measure that should be followed.
Thanks, now every mo mo making $200K a year with a bright green belay tag from the ole puppy mill (aka climbing gym) is going to go out and buy a Hilti and start bolting beautiful trad lines/cracks because sport climbing is so much cooler. I cant tell you how grateful I am for this video.
Ethics has nothing to do with getting to know how properly install a bolt. It is pointless to say that a video cannot cover all subjects that matters. So I do not see that this kind of video should include a whole part about ethics, that is a very complex issue. Ethics are never 100% consensus, so I can only talk from my personal opinion, after 30 yrs of trad and sport climbing, learning from the folks who preceded us and who tried to think not only for themselves but considering other climbers. Common ethics should include that any climber should consider he/she is not the only one with rights over the rock, but rather that this belongs to a entire community of climbers. Of course before bolting anything, anyone should first investigate and talk with the community previously climbing in the area, and talk with both usual people bolting or establishing new trad routes in the area, to get to know which are the ethics in that particular area. In my view this should also include to get to know which are the current plans for developing new routes or leaving some crags for trad or even to do not open anything new in that particular wall due to other concerns (nature protection, risk of rocks falling over areas very frequented, etc.). Also, (again just my personal view, and many disagree in this) one should also ask if any of the usual developers has already the plan to bolt a particular route (or open a trad line,...) just in the line where you would like to develop a new route, even if your desired line does not go directly on top of (or crossing) other lines but if "your envisioned line" pass by close to other lines, so to avoid the lines get too close from each other or confusing people too much,... Of course many folks would have different opinion if there is space for a new route in a wall with previous lines,... or if one wall should only be for trad lines or bolted lines,... and if first person who start bolting or opening a trad route has any right over that line or the line plus some meters buffer, to preclude others to develop any line that goes across or close to that line,... Ideally all of us should try to find a consensus or the least conflicting solutions in controversial matters as to bolt or not bolt,... Otherwise we will lose so much energy fighting against each other instead of finding common grounds and spending that energy enhancing the existing routes (replacing rusted fixed equipment, like old pitons,...) and developing new ones.
pretty good but dont forget the dust mask...
what its good for home wall concrete ,hanger and bolt ? for rappel
i heard you aren't supposed to use a torque wrench to ratchet and tighten things down, just use it at the end to torque it to spec, but i could be wrong, cheers.
It won't hurt the torque wrench any to do the ratcheting and so as to not go passed the torque (and so as to not need multiple tools) it's easiest just to do it with the torque wrench. Folks just don't like turning a bunch of bolts on a car with their nice ones so they use different ones to preserve their expensive tool, but it doesn't hurt the torque wrenches at all.
You're thinking of lossening bolts. Tightening is fine
Is it required to have annoying techno music playing while doing the installation, or only while watching the video?
Hey, that content is free and so helpful, why are you so negative
Music genre depends on if it's outdoor/indoor route and t shirt color iirc
This video is super informative thank you for posting, don't mind the rude person, some people just were not raised right.
WHATSTHAT?! i can't hear you over this loud music
ok boomer
I used my torque wrench recently and over tightened/stripped the bolt. Its hard to detect the "click" & in fact it won't unless you hold straight down on the wrench/socket head.I would like to have a wrench that has a clutch so you can't over tighten. Do they make such a wrench ?
Im 100% certain a stainless hammer and a stainless nut is absolutly overkill. I work in the fab buisness and have done tons of stainless work, cross contamination dont happen in seconds, it takes months or years, so really only if you use a galvanized washer or some other bullshit. Also ive never seen stainless hammer or a stainless nut. Most shit i got is galvanized and cromangan my hammer is tool steel and my opineon is stated above.
Stainless hammer is not required but non stainless nut? Years long contact with galvanized nut would do no good to the bolt (corrosion). You usually buy the bolt with stainless nut as one package.
@@leagoo52 sorry translation issue, i dont mean the threaded nut, i mean the bit for tighning the nut. german "nuss" wchich directly translates to nut.
Better safe than sorry when your life depends on it
i would agree if there was any reason, but there isnt. use a stainless hamer if you want but dont tell anyone they should aswell. ive litteraly got a bolting permit from fischer and not even they say you should use a stinless hammer. and let me tell you, those guys really care about shit like that. also most everything i install with bolts is life depending, balconies, railings ect. also ive seen 20yo stainless bolts installed with steel tools, that have absolutly 0 corrosion, also if the nut has a tiny amount of surface rust the bolt is in no way compromised. to be really sure you need to use glue ins anyways.
@HochstartHarry it depends on the area you're in. If you live by the ocean the salt in the air will tend to corrode a multitude of metals if not treated properly. The hammer is a bit of a stretch but everything else is a legit precautionary measure that should be followed.
Thanks, now every mo mo making $200K a year with a bright green belay tag from the ole puppy mill (aka climbing gym) is going to go out and buy a Hilti and start bolting beautiful trad lines/cracks because sport climbing is so much cooler. I cant tell you how grateful I am for this video.
No one buys hiltis...Milwaukee is the only red brand anyone is going to even consider purchasing
@@whocares146 sure....not an argument worth having lol, I'll make sure I remind everyone of that fact.
@@ResponsiblePledge damn right you will
Ethics has nothing to do with getting to know how properly install a bolt. It is pointless to say that a video cannot cover all subjects that matters. So I do not see that this kind of video should include a whole part about ethics, that is a very complex issue.
Ethics are never 100% consensus, so I can only talk from my personal opinion, after 30 yrs of trad and sport climbing, learning from the folks who preceded us and who tried to think not only for themselves but considering other climbers.
Common ethics should include that any climber should consider he/she is not the only one with rights over the rock, but rather that this belongs to a entire community of climbers. Of course before bolting anything, anyone should first investigate and talk with the community previously climbing in the area, and talk with both usual people bolting or establishing new trad routes in the area, to get to know which are the ethics in that particular area. In my view this should also include to get to know which are the current plans for developing new routes or leaving some crags for trad or even to do not open anything new in that particular wall due to other concerns (nature protection, risk of rocks falling over areas very frequented, etc.). Also, (again just my personal view, and many disagree in this) one should also ask if any of the usual developers has already the plan to bolt a particular route (or open a trad line,...) just in the line where you would like to develop a new route, even if your desired line does not go directly on top of (or crossing) other lines but if "your envisioned line" pass by close to other lines, so to avoid the lines get too close from each other or confusing people too much,...
Of course many folks would have different opinion if there is space for a new route in a wall with previous lines,... or if one wall should only be for trad lines or bolted lines,... and if first person who start bolting or opening a trad route has any right over that line or the line plus some meters buffer, to preclude others to develop any line that goes across or close to that line,... Ideally all of us should try to find a consensus or the least conflicting solutions in controversial matters as to bolt or not bolt,... Otherwise we will lose so much energy fighting against each other instead of finding common grounds and spending that energy enhancing the existing routes (replacing rusted fixed equipment, like old pitons,...) and developing new ones.
Pull test required ??
Lol, the helmet while standing on the floor.
it's not nice to make fun of the mentally handicapped, man
some of those boulders like to jump at you
prior to security bro
No - thank you - I am going to use a glue-in instead.