Concrete anchors
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 25 ส.ค. 2024
- Concrete anchors are a heavy duty anchor for fixing objects to masonry surfaces. Here we use a thru bolt to demonstrate how to fix a piece of wood to a concrete slab. One problem with thru bolts is that they are extremely difficult to remove and so here we have drilled the hole much deeper so that the old thru bolt can be knocked into the hole.
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Every time I have a DIY job to do, I come to your channel and there's a video there waiting for me. This morning I had no idea what an anchor bolt was, now I know how to fix my fence post to concrete. Please keep these videos coming, they're a goldmine of information. Thanks again.
Best video about anchor bolts. I've been looking at several and yours is the only that explains its use and removal. Thank you.
You are welcome.
Thanks for the comment
Good idea about using rustproof bolts. I wasn't sure whether the bolt would split the brick as it expanded, so you've put my mind at rest. The timber is 2" thick which is about 50mm, so I'll look for bolts which are around 120mm.
Thanks again for your help, much appreciated.
Don't forget to blow out your holes. A lot of times trash can get in the way of driving the bolts to the depth you want and you can't remove them to do it later!
Most useful advise here guys.
Yes important to blow your holes clean
Probably one the best videos on this I've seen. Great job!
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Your easily pleased
A simple and effective way of explaining things thank you
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Brother posted the video when I was in school,
helped me today lots 👍
Just the information I needed, well explained and thanks for taking the time to post it
Robert Berry
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Thanks for the comment
I had a few questions on using these before starting work on a deck frame. All questions answered. Cheers fella!
I find the bolt goes in a tiny bit easier and grips slightly better if dust is blown out of the hole. A short length of flexible tube can be used to blow dust out of the hole before the bolt is inserted.
Finally, as shown in the video - there's no need to over tighten these bolts. If you do you risk pulling the bulb-end of the bolt through the jacket - and then the bolt and hole are useless.
Thanks for yet another great video!
That's a great comment, thanks
Brilliant, thanks. I'm not a handyman, so this is very helpful. Hanging a heavy side gate soon and now I have a good idea how to do it. Thanks 👍
I'm glad the video helped
Thanks for the comment 👍
Thanks.
It is smart to keep the hole deeper so you can drive the anchor down into the hole
later if you want to so it doesn't harm anyone for the rest of its life.
Thanks for the comment ;-)
Or just grind it 😂
I enjoyed watching your video also another name of that anchor is sleave anchor I used these all the time because they can hold tons of weight. I used them one time for fastening garage door tracks to concrete walls🤩😎👍
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Great video. Excellent tip to drill the depth out more than needed for an easy solution if you want to remove the bolt. Well done. Cheers and thanks.
You are welcome.
Thank you for the comment ;-)
Ultimate Handyman look at Greg German on TH-cam for how to remove through bolt's from rock!
the job itself isn't particularly difficult but it doesn't prevent it from being a great tutorial video! I watch it through and find it very useful and enjoyable( nice and clean, no talking shit). Thanks for sharing with us!
Thanks for the comment
Brilliant mate ! good old fashion common sense being used here.... nobody seems to think ahead like you have sir.
The "what happens after" I no longer need this anchor in it's current location? simple ! it's a dur-moment.... just, allow enough depth on the [pilot] hole during the original install, to address any future safety concerns.
Well done & very useful.
cheers
This is a cool video. Good basic info on the anchor bolt (thru-bolt as the English gentleman says) which, in my business (architectural graphics) is the most used and most unseen of hardware. I'll be passing it on.
Bob Loza
Thanks Bob ;-)
Nice video, great tip about avoiding possible trips. Thanks.
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Great advice! Not what I came looking for but, Thank You!
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really simple straight to the point great video!
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This is exactly what I needed. I am going to secure a costco gazebo to an exposed aggregate concr deck, and hopefully keep it from blowing away. Thanks man.
+John Bullock You are welcome.Thanks for the comment ;-)
Thanks for taking the time to demo this.
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Thanks for the comment ;-)
Thanks for the video, now I can go back and fix the loose wall my contractor should of fixed. He replaced all the wood in the wall but didn't anchor it to the foundation. Thanks again
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great video , but , if you can brush the dust etc out of the way with the drill bit still in the hole , saves all the dust going in the hole .
great tip about the full depth hole plus a wee bit for knocking the bolt flush later.
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Well made video and explanation on how to......thanks Ultimate Handyman
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I'm getting ready to build a new wooden front porch. I needed to know how to bolt 2 posts to the brick wall. I'm going to use this method. Thanks!
*****
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***** Well, I'm done with the porch and I'm getting all kinds of compliments. The 2 posts against the brick wall are more solid than I ever imagined they'd be. Those bolts were a lifesaver.
*****
Good stuff ;-)
Thanks for the comment
Thanks Great point about drilling deeper I didn't do that on a wall for bike rack Now they're sticking out
Glad to help 👍
i was not a viewer in 2011 and you showed me more of what this fastener can do
+George Gardinier
Thanks George, we use these a lot on site for fixing down barriers etc. as most of the floors are concrete.
I'm glad the videos help ;-)
Thanks for the comments
Thanks! Got a new season subscriber!
Awesome! Thank you! 👍
Thank you very much for the description and example...
Rich
wardl895 You are welcome Rich,
Thanks for the comment
Great video clear instructions
Glad it was helpful!
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112 dislikes? Why? Top video and explains to the point and helpful. Thanks for posting.
It does not matter how good a video is, someone will always dislike it ;-)
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great vid - quality little tip about an extra 1" in the hole, I'm away to use some of these to fit a hanging sign iron bracket to a wall. thanks again!!!!
Thx. Enjoy your videos
I’m glad you like the videos
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Wish Id watched this two hours ago..I made a right bollox of the job.. nuff said.
😱
Outstanding explanation. Thank you for your time to post this video for us all to learn!
You are welcome
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Yet another video that will come in handy in the near future
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Useful video. Thank you so much. Now I have a better idea of what I got to do for my home project. Thumb up to you
Thank you ;-)
oh, thanks! if i hadn't seen this, i would've probably tried to eventually remove them by trying to saw them off, which would've taken AGES. well this was straight-forward!
Very nice video. One suggestion: Use a shop vacuum to remove concrete dust from the hole.
+johngo6283
Thanks for the comment ;-)
stick a small tube into the vacuum hose so that you can go deep into the hole.
Argument: That would be 100% waste of time. I'd say that the anchor holds just the same weight if you vacuum the dust or not.
If its in a floor, I *always* drill straight trough. If the anchor gets screwed up (buggered threads, spins in the hole, etc.) you can pound it down and install a new one on top of it. Hitting rebar is always fun:)
Thanks for the comment
Hopefully you still monitor these questions! I am trying to mount a ledger board on a cinder block wall, so the anchor bolts will fall into the cavity behind the holes I drilled. Also - the expanding flange doesn't expand. perhaps the cinder block hole is slightly too big or the cinder block material is too easily broken away inside the hole making it too loose?
Hi, I am not familiar with cinder blocks I'm afraid (we don't use them in the UK).
I'm not sure what people use when fixing into cinder blocks, perhaps resin would be a better option- th-cam.com/video/oUJPjJsdl0c/w-d-xo.html
Good video - thanks for sharing 👍
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Wow -- fantastic video! Thanks!
Glad you liked it!
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Did u say u were going to fasten that wood block to some concrete gummy bears?
fasten-ating!!! thanks for your help
LOL
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Now that's, worth a few chuckles at least! The drilling was a Bit useful also.
Excellent video, thanks so much.
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Thanks man that's the one for me to fasten wooden ramps to infront of door ways
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Nice one. Thanks 👍🏾👍🏾
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Great video! Thank you
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Thanks for the comment
Thanks for taking the time to post this video, it was a great help.
Great video
Thanks for the comment
I use a small length of plastic hose from a washing machine, (flexible), and about twelve to twenty inches long to blow dust from inside the hole......
Any length of tube or pipe..... even a drinking straw will do if necessary.......and it can be rigid, (say a piece of copper pipe).......or flexible.
The advantage of a flexible bit of pipe is that you don't always need to be on an exact level with the drilled hole to use it.........so if working on a ladder, or at any height on a wall, for example, you can be slightly above or below the hole, or to one side when you blow.....
If you angle the tube or pipe slightly at the surface of the hole and dust inside it will come out much easier than if you are 'dead straight on' to the hole.
Most important point to remember is that at THE MOMENT YOU BLOW into the tube or pipe, CLOSE YOUR EYES......
It's only a momentary 'puff' or 'blow'............BUT........any debris or dust in the hole will come out at some speed.....
Hence the slight angle of the pipe or tube at the surface of the hole..........it will expel it more easily.......and hence the need to momentarily CLOSE YOUR EYES....
James Hennighan
Yorkshire, England
P.S. A flexible piece of pipe stores more easily in a tool box or bag........
Thanks for the detailed comment ;-)
Thanks for this video.
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+varun009
It's a Halfords professional ratchet spanner- th-cam.com/video/Qd2LLH3UNmU/w-d-xo.html
Ultimate Handyman
Please, can I hear you yell, "THIS! IS! SPARTA!!!"
+Efstathius Placidas
I don't think so, although you can use Rawl bolts etc. which leave a threaded female insert in the hole, which you can then bolt to.
You my friend, are a life saver!!! Thanks so much!!
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hi pal those helicoils worked perfect !!the moped man rides again 😃😃😃😃😃thank youuùuu!!!!
Good stuff ;-)
Great video, concise and spot on. Thanks for the information.
Thank´s man, it was very useful. Regards from Colombia
Thanks for sharing your knowledge ... very helpful!!
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Perfect, just what I needed to know, thanks a lot!
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thanks mate, i will use this to bolt my safe to the concrete floor in my closet.
That is why I personally prefer shield anchor bolts. The bolt is removed if you decide to remove something, so no bolt left sticking out of the ground to leave a trip hazard. I just used some shield anchor bolts to put up a door canopy that I made for a customer. So if they do ever move they can take it with them and no ugly bolts sticking out of the wall.
Thanks for the comment ;-)
agreed, shield anchor bolts are preferable.
But in addition, some 9+years after this video was posted there are now better things on the market for fixing into concrete, the obvious being concrete screws!
Shield anchors. Are great. But have to be split then assemble around the work piece: the through bolt shown here. Can be fitted and secured to fix timber or steel directly without splitting the fixing. Like for example a park bench with holes for a fixing. Or re securing existing work. With our removal straight through. Shield anchors are also tricky to fit. And can come loose and need re tightening:
Thanks for the quick respond.
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Thank you sir! Much appreciated
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the boss level drill bit
🤔
Good video...but. when clearing the mound of dust after drilling the hole, use a vacuum instead of a dust pan. Use the vac to clear the mound of dust, then position the vac hose over the drilled hole to clear debris from the hole for a better, more secure fit for the bolt.
👍
Thank u.. Iam working as store keeper and I had benefit out of this
You are welcome ;-)
+Ultimate Handyman how can we get to talk with u
I'm very busy at the moment. What do you wish to talk about?
+Ultimate Handyman all kind of materials.. But not now hh
+Ultimate Handyman when I find something I don't know I will ask you
Great tip. Thanks for sharing.
That's brilliant, thanks for the quick advice. I'm installing it today so I'm glad I asked.
The Resin video was really helpful as well.
Just one question. When I move house will I need to angle grind the end so it's flush to the wall and then fill it or is there another way, like in this video, where I can tap it in?
Thanks again. Very helpful.
J
Thanks man. Good info
Thanks for the comment
Excellent video. I'm building a timber mono-pitch outbuilding/shed and looking for a suitable fixing to bolt/screw the timber frame walls to the base. Obviously these are around the edges of the concrete base so are close to the edge. My question is - how close is too close - the timber frame is made using 3"x2" (the 3" dimension is the width of the frame) so is this too close for this type of fixing? What would you recommend?
"UH", thank you for taking the time to make these videos. I love them!
Can you use this same technique in a vertical stone wall? I want to fix something to my limestone house.
Good video
Thanks for the comment 👍
Just bought from Bolton BandQ packs of M10 I was trying to find some with strength specifications as this one suitable for stair case going off picture on the "diall" pack but other m10s have picture of heavy gate.. hopefully a video of strength tests might be produced sometime.. just wondered what you thought. Thx for video. 👍
Something like this would need some serious equipment to do the testing. There are also a lot of variables depending on the intended use and substrate. The shear load of a M10 bolt is probably about 3 tonnes, but obviously the substrate will fail well before that. 👍
@@ultimatehandyman Thx.. I done more since.. really awkward even going by book, drill 90mm hole and thing can't be hammered just tapped generally stuck 40mm down even tho hole clean and newish concrete mix.. any advice please..Thx in advance 😀
They often are difficult to knock in, but should go in as deep as the depth of the hole. Have you tried using a vacuum to clean out the hole?
@@ultimatehandyman
I have thanks.. I found that tightening nut,then tapping for a while..loosening allows it to go in 1mm.with tsp of hammer again... after hour or so had enough...
I advise anyone to use a rawl bolt because most of the thread is 'covered by a long threaded shield' which can take a bit more hammering abuse with less chance of distortion..and tends to be a bolt head that is being hit.. Thx .. real world examples are hard task master.. 👍
I am using 8 / 10mm bolts and using 14mm drill bit
Looks good thanks for the video.
zyepod
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Good video great tip thanks again
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THANK YOU!! I'm going to try it. 😬 Wish me luck. I need to secure a polycarbonate sheet over a basement window that's broken. Hoping this works.
+MsDanaRyan ツ Good luck with it ;-)
you just know you can trust someone who talks diy with an accent like that.
Thanks for the comment ;-)
Piporro
Yep he could tell me I needed to anchor my bike stand with sellotape and I'd believe him
LMFAO! I only trust people who wear orange shoes!
Lmao
I have a 30mm slab. How long should my anchor bolt be? Can I use a wall plug and screw as well as an alternative?
Thanks for the reply - will look further into it - good stuff!
Excellent, very helpful!!
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Perfect. I always thought that the hole had to match the length exactly. That is a great tip.
amazing video
Great video! Thanks
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Wonderful!
Thank you sooo much you video very very helpfull... 😊☕
thanks for getting back!
thanks man i was pulling my hair out trying to mount a metal bender from harbor freight
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look at climbing anchor videos for some methods to remove the bolts to reuse the holes later. they're clever folk
I just watched it- very interesting ;-)
Great videos
Thanks ;-)
Wow that drill bit will go through the earth! LOL 😆
Use a vacuum cleaner to suck the dust out of holes!!!
😂
ty so much my friend, needed to here, so i could learn
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Great tutorial many thanks :)
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Drill it an inch or so deeper so you can lose it if it's not required anymore - TOP TIP. Also Hilti and Bosch make drill bits that eat through rebar - absolute godsend!
I've seen the rebar cutter bits but never used one yet.
Thanks for the comment
At 1:07 to 1:17, the text says, "one thing you can do is use them for close to the edge fixing..." I think the narrator actually said "can't" but the voice recognition software doesn't understand Brits. I think he meant "CAN'T." He calls them "through bolts"; in the US we call them wedge anchors or Redheads, which is actually a brand name that's become generic. We also have s bolt called a "Titen" from Simpson-Strongtie which works better close to an edge. They cut threads in the concrete, so they don't exert as much expanding force, so they are less likely to crack the concrete. We haven't caught up with the rest of the world, so we only have inch (Imperial?) sizes- Simpson may have come up with metric sizes for the other side of the pond.
Someone asked about the definition of edge distance- check this link- www.engineeringexpress.com/wiki/spacing-edge-distance-embedment-important-concrete-anchors/
It gives a rule of thumb which is that an anchor should have a minimum of 12x the diameter of anchor spacing to an adjacent anchor or to any concrete edge. Also, the concrete should have a minimum thickness of 1.5x the depth of embedment.
Should I have said, "the voice recognition software doesn't understand Scotsmen." ?
Unfortunately I don't have to time to correct all of my videos, as there are over 700, but I'm trying to get around to doing manual closed captions. Sometimes the software gets it really wrong!
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Clearly, the path to Artificial Intelligence leads through Artificial Stupidity- computers are even worse than humans when it comes to "common sense."
BTW, I appreciate the suggestion of overdrilling to facilitate "erasing" unneeded bolts- it's a rare industrial building that doesn't have the ground-down stubs of bolts scattered across the floor.
Thanks for the video man
very helpful video, thnx
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