Mother's Plastic headlight restorer works perfectly also. I had Tamiya panel line enhancer and paint seep under the tape on my 1/32nd Hasegawa P-27 bubble top canopy, I made the mistake of using thinner to clean up the mess, left everything behind and a nasty fog. The cleaner compound and a Q-tip, a little rubbing, PERFECTION! Removed everything and left a high gloss finish. Better than out of the box!
Very nice work my friend and very useful for me as I have just damaged a canopy on the Corsair that I am currently building and hopefully this will help it to look good again. Many thanks for sharing and have fun with your next project, Joe
Superb! I recently bought a model car and the clear parts had apparently been bouncing around inside the box for so long they got scratched up. I'll be giving this method a try.
If you put the compound on the buffing wheel first, it keeps the splatter down a LOT. And it's more effective because you end up using more of the compound.
jakemonster001 That's right it does. I would say it could replace the 'Fine' tube from this system. I have used toothpaste before back on my Red Arrows Hawk. Left it sticky afterwards so I would always recommend the Tamiya Polishing Compounds after using them
It is great marketing how Tamiya first totally messes up a canopy in their very expensive kit and then offers you a handful of also expensive products to fix their own error.
Haha I know right 🤫Must be a conspiracy that they had this all planned out from the start. Mind, the polishes do last forever if you only use them for canopies since you use such a small amount each time. So the price vs. life is actually quite good I guess. A lot to fork out though just for the privilege of being able to get rid of them!
Hey Mark, thanks very much - good to know my tutorials and videos have good content ☺. To answer your question: if you Google search "Tamiya 2000 & 3000 grit sanding sponge" then you'll get a load of results. The 3M ones I use are the same just from the automotive industry for paintshops but they'll do exactly the same - they just work out cheaper since they come in boxes of disks rather than single like the mentioned Tamiya. Hope this helps. The Inner Nerd
Hi. That’s fantastic thanks for you quick response I shall have a look on google and eBay and even have a look in my local car accessories shops etc. Also looking at a lot of your models on here I think your name Inner Nerd should actually be Inner Excellence. Cheers again mate.
It's a good idea to put a piece of blue tak inside the canopy so you don't break the canopy and don't sand too fast or you'll get cracks from too much heat.
Thank you. A lot of manufacturers do have mould seams along the centre line of canopies. Makes no sense to put them there though I agree, it creates a lot more work for us modellers to remove just for the tool to be simpler...
Excellent video. I have a few 1:43 models and their plastic display cases have some minor scratches. Can you tell me please, if I should use only polishing compounds without using sandpaper first? Thank you.
If they are deep scratches I think would need some sand paper starting at 1200 grit and working up to polishing compounds from there. I would try to polish them out first though because the rougher you start, the more work it will be to correct.
Thank you for your tutorial! I'm looking for a Dremel tool suitable for modeling. What particular model do you use? Would you recommend it? Thanks again!
is there a certain brand you use for the soft polishing head for the rotary tool? Mine came with some but they seem to rough for the job, if you have a link for some appropriate ones could you please let me know? Thankyou :) .
Hello. There is no certain brad that I used but these are the ones that I used in this video and continue to use years later. amzn.to/496p5kT Hope this helps and thanks for watching :)
I'm considering using the Tamiya course compound to bring a glossy plastic down to a satin/matte finish on my car stereo head unit to reduce fingerprints. Think it will work?
To be honest I think even the course will start to buff it up, especially combined with a rotary tool. I would suggest some 3000 or 4000 sanding sponge to give it that brushed look. But, the more you F about the more you learn! Best of luck and thanks for watching:)
Hi. Thanks for the tutorial. Did you wipe off and/or rinse the canopy to completely remove any leftover compound before you used the next compound, or was the next compound applied right after the previous w/o having to wipe off and/or rinse any excess from the previous compound?
LAX5x5 Hi. Glad you liked the video and found it useful! No I didn't rinse off any of the previous compound prior to using the next. There should be no compound left after application to fully utilise each application. Hope this helps
It is a good thing your canopy was as big as it is, otherwise when it went flying out of your fingers, you was able to find it, and not lose it to the carpet monster. I am sorry, I laughed at that, but I wasn't laughing at you but with you as you might have said a couple of cuss words when it went flying. Anyways I am going to get myself the Tamiya polish so I can get that darn seam line out of my F15 canopy. Good video, it helps me.
Haha I included this because it was too funny to edit out. The Tamiya polishing compound is expensive, but if you're only polishing canopies with it, it will last for years. I still have these same compounds now with almost a full tub left!
Francisco Erroz Hello and thank you. I'm confident this method will get rid of your problem as the sanding and polishing shown in this video will restore the canopy back to its original condition. Good luck!
Will this be good enough to polish the plastic lens on the Oculus Rift? I had insecticide stain eating away at it now it has hazy spots. Just wondering if this compound can restore the optical clarity of these lenses.
I'm not sure how well this would work on optics but if done thoroughly enough does make a very smooth and scratch free surface on the plastic used for model making. The Tamiya compounds may not be strong enough to polish harder materials used on your Oculus though and I've never tried on anything other than model making materials. Unfortunately I can't help you here, sorry.
@@hugeassets8678 Good to know. I saw a really detailed video comparing novus, acetone vapor, and flame polishing acrylic optical lenses after differing levels of sanding. 2000 grit + novus was the best one tested, but people in the comments suggested much higher grit sandpapers, so I'm sure Tamiya + some sanding with finer grits works nicely.
Tamiya has good products, but the price per volume purchased is way over priced for what you get. You can get a much larger volume of automotive fine Plexiglas polishing compounds. Then just wax with a hard natural wax like Carnauba automotive paste wax (which buy the way is excellent for your regular car windows). People are paying way to much for their model building/painting supplies. I use to use Tamiya paint thinner, now I just use 30/70 alcohol H2O as a thinner and works great for my acrylic paints and you can make it for pennies. Brand names sell their proprietary thinners for their Lacquers and Enamels when you can buy a can of Lacquer thinner ad the hardware store. Also using cheap acrylic paints from Michael's and thin it with your homemade thinner, Lays down great. Buy more model kits and spend less on over priced brand named hobby products.
BennyCFD I agree a lot of modelling products are over priced. I got these polishing compounds knowing they would last as I would rarely need them for the type & amount of work I do. If I used more of it I would definitely go for a home brew of something else!
Hi I am in a kinda bad situation. I got glue on my canopy for the kit I am doing and I have tried to sand it out but it got worse and looks milky and scratched. Do you have any tips on how to fix it??
Joseph Rogers If you follow the steps in this video you should be okay. If it's poly cement you may have to run deeper woth the sand papers to remove it properly as the gkue melts into the plastic. The milky/cloudy appearance on the canopy will be caused by not polishing it up or is a too-high grit compounds. If you stick to the grit numbers on the video you should be able to remove that. Good luck!!
I got mine from eBay but I'm not sure of the exact listing. It's a fine cotton buffing wheel so searching this may get you along the right lines. Hope this helps and thanks for watching :)
For the best results, yes. But the fine is still very fine and could be passable. The three stages are more aimed towards car modellers since the shine after all 3 is flawless if done correctly. For aircraft canopies you could use the course or fine. I would avoid the finish since this isn't really going to do much as the grit is almost a cream. Hope this helps and thanks for watching :)
I start with 2000 grit as a first cut. Then move to 3000 on the models. On canopies you'll need to go even finer and then use compound to get rid of marks and seams like in the video
Niels Ferwerda I dont know where you can get the full set, I could only find the course in most shops in the UK. I ordered these on eBay direct from Japan
Where are you from, Niels? There's at least 3 german online-shops that have the full range of Tamiya polishing compounds, surely some scale modelling shop must be available for you too...
Very nice job there with the seamline - but fuck those manufacturers who even put a seamline down the center like that - it's not modelling, it's just extra work.
@@ADRIAAN1007 As has been said, yes this would work. Glass would be more difficult as it is so hard - I think the polishing compound wouldn't be abrasive enough to take out the finer scratches. But for plastic lenses it should be okay guess.
could i use a cotton swab to apply the compound in a tight area. i accidentaly got glue on a window in the nose of my b17 that i was modifying. the window is too small to use anything bigger than a cotton swab
Sand at various 45 and 60 degree angles relative to each other to avoid a noticeable FLAT area on the top of the canopy. Sanding largely in one direction can create a secondary deformation. Multiple angles will help feather in the repaired area.
Or one could flip the bird at Tamiya's marketing game and say "I'm good with the seam line!" 👍 Nice work nonetheless, but looks like an expensive fix all the same! There have to be less expensive, more broadly-used plastic polishing systems out there that would work here. At least you're given an extra canopy to practice on first.
Haha yes it's an engieered problem to lead to another product haha. These compounds can be used to polish up paintwork though on civilian vehicles as you can see me use them here th-cam.com/video/EPpHP66M1wM/w-d-xo.html&lc=UgzvjgPYLla0fE3Lcip4AaABAg So not entirely a solution to a mould problem ;) Thanks for watching :)
I don't think Tamiya produce that finishing compound anymore :( For over a year I have been asking their sole agent in my country and was told they ( Tamiya ) don't have stock.
Ahh okay. I wasn’t aware of this. I don’t know of any other polishing compounds out there but I’m sure there are alternatives still available from Gunze Sangyo for example
A few days ago I saw Tamiya’s website and it says that it’s a discontinued product... Now, there is another product to remove scratches from plastic named “Novus”. It’s kind off similar to Tamiya compound... I personally didn’t like it, but it’s the only compound that I know it works on most plastic surfaces. Hope it helped :)
It pisses me off to have to buy the polishing compounds that I would generally not use or need to fix this, and will cost me about a third of the price of the kit!
You can also do this with toothpaste but it’s not as good nor and clean. Bear in mind the amount you use of this stuff is next to nothing so they last forever. I’ve had these for 3 years now and no way near running out. It’s money well spent if it lasts that long
Right now trying to find this on ebay..well, you can, but because of the seller locations, Hong Kong, Australia, etc., you can bet the shipping period could be two months, or like me, when I recently ordered a set of L.E.D. Tea lights that changed colors, and used a little remote, having to order a series of four orders to get four lights, )but total bill was less than six bucks, free shipping, plus the remote..) I got a note from ebay that the seller in China canceled all the sales. Why does a model builder want L.E.D. tea lights that change color with a remote? Think 31" Nautilus wheelhouse lighting....
Mahatma Coat "East" to follow. Its all step-by-step and re-playable with instructions on screen tgat can be translated. All's it takes to be the same is instructions and the same equipment.
I was born with BIG mitts. I CAN NO WAY have the dexterity like this. New way ! Again, you are ELITE at what you do. I don't think something like this can be taught, you have it or you don't.
I'm looking to get into scale model building and I've been watching a lot of tutorials. This one has genuinely blown my mind
Mother's Plastic headlight restorer works perfectly also. I had Tamiya panel line enhancer and paint seep under the tape on my 1/32nd Hasegawa P-27 bubble top canopy, I made the mistake of using thinner to clean up the mess, left everything behind and a nasty fog. The cleaner compound and a Q-tip, a little rubbing, PERFECTION! Removed everything and left a high gloss finish. Better than out of the box!
That's some pretty epic polishing music.
FYI, after sanding my car headlight to get them clear i have used this stuff on the and it comes out great, it is a lot of work but worth it
Very nice work my friend and very useful for me as I have just damaged a canopy on the Corsair that I am currently building and hopefully this will help it to look good again.
Many thanks for sharing and have fun with your next project,
Joe
Thanks Joe's Model Kits. Yes this method should be able to remove damage too from blades etc and get it looking clear again. Good luck!
Wow, great job👍and a great tutorial! Like!
excellent demonstration. nice one !
When buffing with the Dremel always use low speed or the excess heat will damage the clear part.
Superb! I recently bought a model car and the clear parts had apparently been bouncing around inside the box for so long they got scratched up. I'll be giving this method a try.
Best of luck. This method is definitely the way to polish them back up better than new! Thanks for watching :)
If you put the compound on the buffing wheel first, it keeps the splatter down a LOT. And it's more effective because you end up using more of the compound.
regular toothpaste works well sanding a canopy also! Great job!
jakemonster001 That's right it does. I would say it could replace the 'Fine' tube from this system. I have used toothpaste before back on my Red Arrows Hawk. Left it sticky afterwards so I would always recommend the Tamiya Polishing Compounds after using them
NERD MY ASS ! YOU ARE A ART-EEST !
A STYRENE ENGINEER ! GOD BLESS YOU DUDE WITH YOUR ATTENTION FOR DETAIL, KNOWLEDGE AND PATIENCE.
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
It is great marketing how Tamiya first totally messes up a canopy in their very expensive kit and then offers you a handful of also expensive products to fix their own error.
Haha I know right 🤫Must be a conspiracy that they had this all planned out from the start. Mind, the polishes do last forever if you only use them for canopies since you use such a small amount each time. So the price vs. life is actually quite good I guess. A lot to fork out though just for the privilege of being able to get rid of them!
Tamiya loves money
Sweet, I'll take note
Thank you! Tape under tape...remarkable.
Yet another fantastic tutorial. Can i just ask where you get the round sanding sponges from. Thanks alot for sharing your great knowledge.
Hey Mark, thanks very much - good to know my tutorials and videos have good content ☺. To answer your question: if you Google search "Tamiya 2000 & 3000 grit sanding sponge" then you'll get a load of results. The 3M ones I use are the same just from the automotive industry for paintshops but they'll do exactly the same - they just work out cheaper since they come in boxes of disks rather than single like the mentioned Tamiya. Hope this helps. The Inner Nerd
Hi. That’s fantastic thanks for you quick response I shall have a look on google and eBay and even have a look in my local car accessories shops etc. Also looking at a lot of your models on here I think your name Inner Nerd should actually be Inner Excellence. Cheers again mate.
It's a good idea to put a piece of blue tak inside the canopy so you don't break the canopy and don't sand too fast or you'll get cracks from too much heat.
Thanks for the tip and thank you for watching :)
Great video! But I have to ask why there is a seam line there in the first place. It makes no sense for the mold to be split there.
Thank you. A lot of manufacturers do have mould seams along the centre line of canopies. Makes no sense to put them there though I agree, it creates a lot more work for us modellers to remove just for the tool to be simpler...
it sells more products..
Excellent video. I have a few 1:43 models and their plastic display cases have some minor scratches. Can you tell me please, if I should use only polishing compounds without using sandpaper first? Thank you.
If they are deep scratches I think would need some sand paper starting at 1200 grit and working up to polishing compounds from there. I would try to polish them out first though because the rougher you start, the more work it will be to correct.
Thank you for your tutorial! I'm looking for a Dremel tool suitable for modeling. What particular model do you use? Would you recommend it? Thanks again!
I made notes on this one thanks
is there a certain brand you use for the soft polishing head for the rotary tool? Mine came with some but they seem to rough for the job, if you have a link for some appropriate ones could you please let me know? Thankyou :) .
Hello. There is no certain brad that I used but these are the ones that I used in this video and continue to use years later. amzn.to/496p5kT Hope this helps and thanks for watching :)
That surely looks Nice.
I broke my canopy for my F4D1 Skyray 1/72, is there a place you might know of where I can get another one without buying the whole kit?
You could try Squadron Models canopies and Falcon canopies. Don't know if they have ones for your particular aircraft.
I'm considering using the Tamiya course compound to bring a glossy plastic down to a satin/matte finish on my car stereo head unit to reduce fingerprints. Think it will work?
To be honest I think even the course will start to buff it up, especially combined with a rotary tool. I would suggest some 3000 or 4000 sanding sponge to give it that brushed look. But, the more you F about the more you learn! Best of luck and thanks for watching:)
Hi. Thanks for the tutorial.
Did you wipe off and/or rinse the canopy to completely remove any leftover compound before you used the next compound, or was the next compound applied right after the previous w/o having to wipe off and/or rinse any excess from the previous compound?
LAX5x5 Hi. Glad you liked the video and found it useful! No I didn't rinse off any of the previous compound prior to using the next. There should be no compound left after application to fully utilise each application. Hope this helps
Thank you very much. I'm looking forward to watching more of your videos.
Nice tutorial on this.
How far did the compound get "slung" from the Dremmel? LOL
VooDoo Nights Hahaha straight in my face! Note to self: Put less on! 😃
Thanks for the video.
After using the microfiber cloth, can it be washed and reused, or do you have to discard it? Thanks. Great content!
Microfiber cloth can be washed an reused depending on the abrasive. Fr something like this it should be perfectly fone
It is a good thing your canopy was as big as it is, otherwise when it went flying out of your fingers, you was able to find it, and not lose it to the carpet monster. I am sorry, I laughed at that, but I wasn't laughing at you but with you as you might have said a couple of cuss words when it went flying. Anyways I am going to get myself the Tamiya polish so I can get that darn seam line out of my F15 canopy. Good video, it helps me.
Haha I included this because it was too funny to edit out. The Tamiya polishing compound is expensive, but if you're only polishing canopies with it, it will last for years. I still have these same compounds now with almost a full tub left!
Nice, good job.
inner nerd, hi, great tutorial, can i remove glue plasti zap medium ca from the canopy with this product??
Francisco Erroz Hello and thank you. I'm confident this method will get rid of your problem as the sanding and polishing shown in this video will restore the canopy back to its original condition. Good luck!
Are these Verlindon photoetched parts or Edwuard?
Will this be good enough to polish the plastic lens on the Oculus Rift? I had insecticide stain eating away at it now it has hazy spots. Just wondering if this compound can restore the optical clarity of these lenses.
I'm not sure how well this would work on optics but if done thoroughly enough does make a very smooth and scratch free surface on the plastic used for model making. The Tamiya compounds may not be strong enough to polish harder materials used on your Oculus though and I've never tried on anything other than model making materials. Unfortunately I can't help you here, sorry.
I'm not knowledgeable on the process, but I would look into acetone vapor polishing, as I've heard it's usually good enough for plastic optics.
@@jo54763 Any plastic polishing compound works great, just don't over do it. Tamiya worked great on my Quest 2 lenses.
@@hugeassets8678 Good to know. I saw a really detailed video comparing novus, acetone vapor, and flame polishing acrylic optical lenses after differing levels of sanding. 2000 grit + novus was the best one tested, but people in the comments suggested much higher grit sandpapers, so I'm sure Tamiya + some sanding with finer grits works nicely.
Tamiya has good products, but the price per volume purchased is way over priced for what you get. You can get a much larger volume of automotive fine Plexiglas polishing compounds. Then just wax with a hard natural wax like Carnauba automotive paste wax (which buy the way is excellent for your regular car windows). People are paying way to much for their model building/painting supplies. I use to use Tamiya paint thinner, now I just use 30/70 alcohol H2O as a thinner and works great for my acrylic paints and you can make it for pennies. Brand names sell their proprietary thinners for their Lacquers and Enamels when you can buy a can of Lacquer thinner ad the hardware store. Also using cheap acrylic paints from Michael's and thin it with your homemade thinner, Lays down great. Buy more model kits and spend less on over priced brand named hobby products.
BennyCFD I agree a lot of modelling products are over priced. I got these polishing compounds knowing they would last as I would rarely need them for the type & amount of work I do. If I used more of it I would definitely go for a home brew of something else!
the sclpel is really sharp, what brand did u use ?
They are Swann and Morton blades
Hi I am in a kinda bad situation. I got glue on my canopy for the kit I am doing and I have tried to sand it out but it got worse and looks milky and scratched. Do you have any tips on how to fix it??
Joseph Rogers If you follow the steps in this video you should be okay. If it's poly cement you may have to run deeper woth the sand papers to remove it properly as the gkue melts into the plastic. The milky/cloudy appearance on the canopy will be caused by not polishing it up or is a too-high grit compounds. If you stick to the grit numbers on the video you should be able to remove that. Good luck!!
rpm dir dremel? great tutorial!
Thanks davide marzin! 700rpm
OK, thank you!
Extra-question... when an italian tornado??? ehehehehehheheheheheheh
davide marzin It'll add it to the list 🖒 The Tornado is one of my favourite planes so can't wait to start this!!
Yeeeeeeeeeaaaaaaaaaahhhhhhhhhhhh!
@@TheInnerNerd How did you get that low rpm with Dremel? isn't it 10.000rpm?
You just given ZM ki45 toryu kits frosty/clear parts a temporary reprieve.Cheers.
where did you buy wool wheel?
I got mine from eBay but I'm not sure of the exact listing. It's a fine cotton buffing wheel so searching this may get you along the right lines. Hope this helps and thanks for watching :)
do the polishing products need to be used in order? (like coarse, fine, finish) or can I simply use the finishing polisher?
For the best results, yes. But the fine is still very fine and could be passable. The three stages are more aimed towards car modellers since the shine after all 3 is flawless if done correctly. For aircraft canopies you could use the course or fine. I would avoid the finish since this isn't really going to do much as the grit is almost a cream. Hope this helps and thanks for watching :)
what grit did you use to sand paint models before polishing them?
I start with 2000 grit as a first cut. Then move to 3000 on the models. On canopies you'll need to go even finer and then use compound to get rid of marks and seams like in the video
@@TheInnerNerd do you wet sand or just leave the sponge dry?
@@TheInnerNerd i found you started from 1200.
Where in Europa can i buy these Tamiya polishing compounds ???
Can't find Them anywhere !!!!
Niels Ferwerda I dont know where you can get the full set, I could only find the course in most shops in the UK. I ordered these on eBay direct from Japan
Ok Let's explore E-bay then, thanks for The tip .
Keep up the gold work !!!!....
Niels Ferweda, modelbouwverf.nl
Where are you from, Niels? There's at least 3 german online-shops that have the full range of Tamiya polishing compounds, surely some scale modelling shop must be available for you too...
Ebay
PERFECT....
Very nice job there with the seamline - but fuck those manufacturers who even put a seamline down the center like that - it's not modelling, it's just extra work.
What’s that scalpel blade you were using
I use a Swann and Morton number 10 blade. You can use a number 11 too for the same scalpel bit o prefer to use a 10
The Inner Nerd oppsie I meant the handle:)
Ahh sorry. www.google.com/search?q=scalpel+retractable+handle&safe=active&client=firefox-b-ab&source=lnms&tbm=shop&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwi_0KvmjtvfAhVMNOwKHVOaC-wQ_AUIDigB&biw=1536&bih=731
what kind of finish gloss...?
I'd love to try that stuff but you can't get it around here. Not in the USA anyway that I have found.
Everything that he used can be ordered online; Amazon has everything.
Hello
Where can I find wool buffing wheel ?
Hello. I found these on eBay. I think I searched soft polishing/buffing wheel and scrolled through until I found what I was after
@@TheInnerNerd thank you
hi! where dit it go the canopy on 4:20" man????😝 i just kidding,good job mister!!!!
Can I use it to repair damaged eye glass???
If the eye pieces are made from polycarbonate or another plastic. I have done it a couple of times.
@@ADRIAAN1007 Thanks
@@ADRIAAN1007 Good to know!
@@ADRIAAN1007 As has been said, yes this would work. Glass would be more difficult as it is so hard - I think the polishing compound wouldn't be abrasive enough to take out the finer scratches. But for plastic lenses it should be okay guess.
could i use a cotton swab to apply the compound in a tight area. i accidentaly got glue on a window in the nose of my b17 that i was modifying. the window is too small to use anything bigger than a cotton swab
Yes that will work fine. Anything that will not scratch the part will be good to use and allow you to get into areas tough to reach
Sand at various 45 and 60 degree angles relative to each other to avoid a noticeable FLAT area on the top of the canopy. Sanding largely in one direction can create a secondary deformation. Multiple angles will help feather in the repaired area.
Cómo le ago para con seguir los modelos AKI en gto gto
Where to get p2000. 3000 sand paper...
KEN rOSECRANS online. I’d recommend tamiya 1000, 2000 and 3000, grit sponge sand paper
Home Depo, Hardware store
@@todddoom The Home Despot by me didn't have the finer grade sandpaper.
Or one could flip the bird at Tamiya's marketing game and say "I'm good with the seam line!" 👍
Nice work nonetheless, but looks like an expensive fix all the same! There have to be less expensive, more broadly-used plastic polishing systems out there that would work here. At least you're given an extra canopy to practice on first.
what kind 1500 2000 3000 sandpaper?
Tamiya do all those grades but you can also find them by 3M and other motor industry supply manufacturers
gloss acrylic...?
Gloss acrylic what?
It's almost like TAMIYA designed the mold line down the centre on purpose...
Haha yes it's an engieered problem to lead to another product haha. These compounds can be used to polish up paintwork though on civilian vehicles as you can see me use them here th-cam.com/video/EPpHP66M1wM/w-d-xo.html&lc=UgzvjgPYLla0fE3Lcip4AaABAg So not entirely a solution to a mould problem ;) Thanks for watching :)
I don't think Tamiya produce that finishing compound anymore :( For over a year I have been asking their sole agent in my country and was told they ( Tamiya ) don't have stock.
Ahh okay. I wasn’t aware of this. I don’t know of any other polishing compounds out there but I’m sure there are alternatives still available from Gunze Sangyo for example
@@TheInnerNerd Thanks will look into it
@A ok Thanks for the update will pop by their sole agent this weekend
A few days ago I saw Tamiya’s website and it says that it’s a discontinued product...
Now, there is another product to remove scratches from plastic named “Novus”. It’s kind off similar to Tamiya compound...
I personally didn’t like it, but it’s the only compound that I know it works on most plastic surfaces. Hope it helped :)
Tamiya still produces these compounds this day. Local sellers here sell those items.
4:03 good job lol, compound flies all over the place
can I use this thing on painted surfaces?
Yes it works on clear coats too. If you see my Ducati 888 video you’ll see the polishing process for painted surfaces there
Subbed
Thank you and thanks for watching :)
It pisses me off to have to buy the polishing compounds that I would generally not use or need to fix this, and will cost me about a third of the price of the kit!
You can also do this with toothpaste but it’s not as good nor and clean. Bear in mind the amount you use of this stuff is next to nothing so they last forever. I’ve had these for 3 years now and no way near running out. It’s money well spent if it lasts that long
Right now trying to find this on ebay..well, you can, but because of the seller locations, Hong Kong, Australia, etc., you can bet the shipping period could be two months, or like me, when I recently ordered a set of L.E.D. Tea lights that changed colors, and used a little remote, having to order a series of four orders to get four lights, )but total bill was less than six bucks, free shipping, plus the remote..) I got a note from ebay that the seller in China canceled all the sales. Why does a model builder want L.E.D. tea lights that change color with a remote? Think 31" Nautilus wheelhouse lighting....
course then fine...?
Course then fine yes
in what world is this 'easy' . I mean I'm watching a master craftsman here. With loads of talent and a bunch special equipment.
Mahatma Coat "East" to follow. Its all step-by-step and re-playable with instructions on screen tgat can be translated. All's it takes to be the same is instructions and the same equipment.
Your mum says: CLEAN YOUR AIRBRUSH! 🤪
this music, omg...so annoying.
I was born with BIG mitts. I CAN NO WAY have the dexterity like this. New way !
Again, you are ELITE at what you do.
I don't think something like this can be taught, you have it or you don't.
Thank you and thanks for watching :)