Those work great for acrylic nails, too. If you get the white foam one with the fine grit, it will get rid of the "dimples" in the plastic and then you can use the one you already have to buff
I have had those swirl marks show through primer & paint in the past, I found washing the kit stops it happening but this is a great tutorial for people who don't paint
@langlest If you're going to do things like prime, paint, apply decals, and top coat, then it's definitely a good idea wash the parts with soap water and then letting it completely air dry before doing any of that. There is apparently a chemical left on the piece from the molding process that can effect the efficacy of the paints and primer from adhering to the plastic and washing away that chemical helps. But I hear that aspect isn't so much of an issue these days with newer GunPla kits.
xxnike629xx oh I'll definitely be washing them all since that happened :) I had no idea why it was happening but release agent from the mold makes sense
xxnike629xx this is my latest kit, twitter.com/langlest/status/909409738718400512?s=09 I soaked it overnight in soapy water & scrubbed it all with an old toothbrush before priming :)
Hey, I got a question about this one... does it work over gloss varnished surfaces? I am doing a candied Sazabi and i wanna make it ultra shiny lol and this buffer looks pretty amazing.
I like to finish my kits with gloss topcoat because I prefer the finish over matt. If I use gloss will it make all the other parts look the same as the buffed parts. Im too lazy to buff every part to get the same finish
@@STARSHADOWWOODWORKS actually i made a mistake, i already top coat my kit. And now i realize how bad the nubmark, then i started to remove it and it become scratches. Damn. Can i top coat it again after that??
Say, if I wanted to paint some parts and panels on my kit, can I just "scrub" said parts with the black side of that block thingy instead of using a primer? Hobby paints and tools are kind of hard to come by here where I live, so I'd like to save some of the stuff as much as I could.
I would recommend a primer of some kind even if automobile primer then sand down as your paint can peel up or bubble and you don't want a great job ruined by that.
It shouldn't but this is meant more to remove blemishes etc. If don't want to buff everything once smooth you can lightly buff with 1st step give satin sheen.
@Dave's World Couldn't you just use a glossy top coat to get the shiny effect? Even with just that first layer of sanding, the swirls dramatically were reduced. Pretty cool. I might have to look into buying some of these sanding blocks. They seem better than buying sand papers.
Question say im going to build a kit with nub marks and im going to clean it and stuf tho there are always scratges of the sandpaper do i have to buff it and then paint it or what
Yeah the polish side is at least 4k to get that shine. The rougher side is less than 2k maybe 1k. If it was 2k it wouldn't be as dull I don't think. I love shopping in the makeup isle. I'm sure the checkout person thinks I'm a drag queen.
I'm not planning to paint but I wanna put a matte coat to keep the panel lines and protect my kit. Would it be a problem if I buff it and then spray the parts with a matte coat?
I use those buffing pads but they last about 1/3 of an RG kit. What the heck am I doing wrong? I'm sure I'm doing it as lightly as I can. Are glass nail files more durable?
@@mizukiaoi5777 if honest I wouldn't clear coat over the super shiny as might just slide off. I use this mostly for oob kits that I want to clean up. I have clear coated some but stupped buffing just before super shine.
+Riley Evans you could tho I recommend if can just use back of xacto blade to scrape off seam line then buff otherwise your edges may become rounded and soft detail. Have vid planned on basic seam removal.
If I am sanding some parts and then I buff with that, will it look like new part? Fyi, I am sanding the part to remove nub, And I am not going to repaint it
I think that depends on how well you sand the part to begin with, and what grit sandpaper/polishing pads you use. You're going to want to get it fairly smoother before you use one of these. If you're not painting, I would highly recommend you check out glass nano nail files. They're cheap, last for many months at least, and wind up buffing the part as you're standing, meaning the spot where you filed will have the same glass-like shine these pieces have after buffing. Complete game changer, and I wish I found out about them sooner. Really makes this hobby a lot easier to get into.
Wow like a mirror but in my opinion like shiny plastic looks to cheap if you get what I mean but for the outer armor it does look ok I think it would look cool if the finish was in between like a satin finish like I wonder if it looks ok on my pg astray but I don't know it does look nice a way to get the plastic shiny with out top coat
+photondebuger45 I fully understand what you mean, you can just do first buff side if wanting satin finish. It's just that those injection marks bug the hell out of me lol
Dave's World another thing that is understandable one for me is the nubs the nub marks like I was trying to remove the nubs on my gundam kit (the pg red frame is my first gundam kit cuz that's what you do ;3) and my method didn't work too too well
+photondebuger45 I plan on updating all my old how to on things like that. I forget that their are newer modelers out there that could use the help and as time has gone by my production and quality has as well.
Dave's World yes I have seen a bit of your older videos and some of your newer ones yeah content and quality wise yeah its night and day and I'm not a long time subscriber I subscribed about a week and a half I wanna say but yeah I have seen the pretty good jump in your content
@Dave I recently came across one of Jenic's Build video's for the 1/60 Mazinger Model kit. In it he did showcased a very beautiful candy paint job on the finished model. The video doesn't really explain the process he went through to achieve some of the shine. I noticed he would paint pieces and then sand then paint it again but I can't tell if he polished any of the pieces or whether you're even suppose to after painting things. A lot of just looked confusing to me. If you have the time can you take a look at this and perhaps run me through what he's doing? I'd leave a comment in his video but I've seen him tell other people that his english isn't up to par and that he uses google translate. th-cam.com/video/1U8Vul3z3-4/w-d-xo.html Thanks :)
Dude.. im not sure what is up with your accent.. but the way you say some words make you sound like you have some kind of “nya” factor that youd here in anime espcially from talking cats.. “painying” instead of painting, “watyer” instead of just water, “i completely got ridyof it”
![How to Prep Your Gunpla: Removing Nub Marks and Other Surface Imperfections [Tutorial]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/8I3D66tX9vw/mqdefault.jpg)
Pro-tip: those nail buffers also work on your nails ;)
Those work great for acrylic nails, too. If you get the white foam one with the fine grit, it will get rid of the "dimples" in the plastic and then you can use the one you already have to buff
+nimueladyofthelake yup, love these things, I have in all kinds of grit.
My boyfriend just got me into building and i used my nails blocks and it turned out well, good to know you OK-ed it
That's awesome :)
I have had those swirl marks show through primer & paint in the past, I found washing the kit stops it happening but this is a great tutorial for people who don't paint
@langlest
If you're going to do things like prime, paint, apply decals, and top coat, then it's definitely a good idea wash the parts with soap water and then letting it completely air dry before doing any of that.
There is apparently a chemical left on the piece from the molding process that can effect the efficacy of the paints and primer from adhering to the plastic and washing away that chemical helps.
But I hear that aspect isn't so much of an issue these days with newer GunPla kits.
xxnike629xx oh I'll definitely be washing them all since that happened :) I had no idea why it was happening but release agent from the mold makes sense
xxnike629xx this is my latest kit, twitter.com/langlest/status/909409738718400512?s=09
I soaked it overnight in soapy water & scrubbed it all with an old toothbrush before priming :)
@langlest
Nice.
+langlest some swirls are actual variations in plastic. These are just inconsistent coloring. But glad can help
Rad as hell Dave. I need to find those blocks you sent me way back. This looks like something I wanna get into 😎
+Justinius Builds ty bro, yup just makes prep that much easier.
What is the kit in your profile pic? And do you reccomend it?
@@jacobdavis6604 the build strike master grade, it's based heavily on the master grade strike rm. Both are fantastic models
Thanks this was really helpful.
Very informative video, hope you yet 10k soon.
+Xuan Anh Bui thank you very much, sure will get there someday lol
im looking forward to seeing your opinion on the upgraded gun for him
+Therian12 thanks, I may pick up another gm so can use the second gun.
Not rly into your spinner stuff but I LOVE the Gunpla! Are you ever going to talk about the resin conversion kit for your Sazabi?
+MixMasterBoon thank you and eventually will get to that pile lol
That buffing worked like magic to make it shine. Without that sponge, what alternative might work?
You could try fabrics.
What if I wanted to remove the blemish but don’t want it to be shiny?
Hey, I got a question about this one... does it work over gloss varnished surfaces? I am doing a candied Sazabi and i wanna make it ultra shiny lol and this buffer looks pretty amazing.
Nice job Dave!
+jeasocrazy thank you.
Which side do you use first buf or polish
There's a scratch on one of the parts from the chest area, and idk how do I get rid of that, should I use a higher sanding sticks to clean it out
I like to finish my kits with gloss topcoat because I prefer the finish over matt. If I use gloss will it make all the other parts look the same as the buffed parts. Im too lazy to buff every part to get the same finish
How many grit?
Is this remove the scratch effect after sanding with sandbox 3m.
You can use that way
@@STARSHADOWWOODWORKS actually i made a mistake, i already top coat my kit. And now i realize how bad the nubmark, then i started to remove it and it become scratches. Damn. Can i top coat it again after that??
@@BlueZTigerZ yup you sure can
Can we use the block for sanding purposes?
Nice tutorial Dave, I'm wondering, does this work on curved surfaces as well?
+Smythies HK it does work on curved surfaces.
Cool idea. Thanks for sharing.
+S Hummel your very welcome and thanks for stopping by.
Dave, I got my photo etch parts for the GM Sniper at USA Gundam store.
+cb671 I'm waiting to hear if getting more in as sold out. Other wise may see if someone in groups have one to sell or trade for.
Ahhh ok...I was looking at ordering another one aswell as I have 2 GM Snipers to build for a diorama.
+cb671 lol
Say, if I wanted to paint some parts and panels on my kit, can I just "scrub" said parts with the black side of that block thingy instead of using a primer? Hobby paints and tools are kind of hard to come by here where I live, so I'd like to save some of the stuff as much as I could.
I would recommend a primer of some kind even if automobile primer then sand down as your paint can peel up or bubble and you don't want a great job ruined by that.
Will this effect how well waterslides and stickers adhere to the part?
It shouldn't but this is meant more to remove blemishes etc. If don't want to buff everything once smooth you can lightly buff with 1st step give satin sheen.
Don't know if its me but my nail buffer polish side just scratches.
@Dave's World
Couldn't you just use a glossy top coat to get the shiny effect?
Even with just that first layer of sanding, the swirls dramatically were reduced.
Pretty cool. I might have to look into buying some of these sanding blocks. They seem better than buying sand papers.
+xxnike629xx well my point isn't to get shiny effect but remove the blemishes.
xxnike629xx
Yes.. You can use a top coat, but that will eventually wear away.. This way the shine doesn't get removed with time
Can you still topcoat it because i only do straight build then topcoat but can you still topcoat it?
I would not buff to this shine if top coating . You want little texture to bite to.
Thx its really helpful
Just a question is gm sniper a strong Gundam?
Question say im going to build a kit with nub marks and im going to clean it and stuf tho there are always scratges of the sandpaper do i have to buff it and then paint it or what
If painting I wouldn't polish but can buff out the scratches.
@@STARSHADOWWOODWORKS thx I’m going to do a custom kit so I was asking first time doing custom gunpla wish me luck
@@The_last_prime good luck. You got this.
@@STARSHADOWWOODWORKS thx :)
Any idea of the grit of each side?
If I calculate about 2k on one and 4k on other.
Yeah the polish side is at least 4k to get that shine. The rougher side is less than 2k maybe 1k. If it was 2k it wouldn't be as dull I don't think.
I love shopping in the makeup isle. I'm sure the checkout person thinks I'm a drag queen.
Lmao, hey if it works and saves money I don't care lol
doing this does it left scratches or can this method remove scratches due to sanding?
It can remove the scratches from sanding.
I'm not planning to paint but I wanna put a matte coat to keep the panel lines and protect my kit. Would it be a problem if I buff it and then spray the parts with a matte coat?
Nope, in fact looks great like that.
I guess this is now called Forpro.
I wonder if sanding sponges or godhand polishing sanding sponges would work
Should if work ur way up in grits
Does polishing make it harder for primer to stick if you want to paint it? Thanks! Great video :)
If your planning on painting I would not go high polish.
I use those buffing pads but they last about 1/3 of an RG kit. What the heck am I doing wrong? I'm sure I'm doing it as lightly as I can. Are glass nail files more durable?
I'm not sure is same I use but I only have to change around every couple kits, in fact I will cut in half to get most use.
Nice!
I use the same exact method!
+Average Singaporean nice... Knew I liked you for a reason
I know I'm very late but.. should i top coat it after polishing it?
That would be up to you.
@@STARSHADOWWOODWORKS So top coat won't ruin the polish?
@@mizukiaoi5777 if honest I wouldn't clear coat over the super shiny as might just slide off. I use this mostly for oob kits that I want to clean up. I have clear coated some but stupped buffing just before super shine.
@@STARSHADOWWOODWORKS Oh alright thx . Really helped me out
@@mizukiaoi5777 glad could help.
How do you do it on small surfaces where the foam is too big to get into?
Little areas like that I use back of xacto to remove mark and cut a strip of the polish pad part to fit in area.
could i use this too clean up sem lines
+Riley Evans you could tho I recommend if can just use back of xacto blade to scrape off seam line then buff otherwise your edges may become rounded and soft detail. Have vid planned on basic seam removal.
Can i use this technic on painted part?
You can! Just make sure to put on clear coat first
Bruh... $12 a dozen. I got all my tools, and godhand off Amazon for less than $40. Am so happy rn.
Could you provide links?
Can i put a matte top coat after buffing a kit?
Yup and looks better than if didn't buff.
@@STARSHADOWWOODWORKS Tnx for replying so quickly
No problem. Have great day.
You too man
Dave, what side of the block are you using to do this? I assume this block has multiple side grits?
Has 2 sides on block, one side if buffing and then follow up with the polish side.
Dave's World Oh really? Only two sides to it? I see. The one I have bought has four.
Ya different companies make different ways but the professional ones I use have 2 to have the foam to hold on to
Dave's World I would look into those then. They sound far better than the ones I have been using.
Some said that you can remove it by washing it with soap and warm water.Is it true?
False. The texture and swirls are from the mold.
What grit this buff have?
+Ultron_mark_12 it doesn't say but rough guess 1k and 2k
Lmao.. It's between 240 and 280.. Not 1K lol
If I am sanding some parts and then I buff with that, will it look like new part?
Fyi, I am sanding the part to remove nub, And I am not going to repaint it
I think that depends on how well you sand the part to begin with, and what grit sandpaper/polishing pads you use. You're going to want to get it fairly smoother before you use one of these.
If you're not painting, I would highly recommend you check out glass nano nail files. They're cheap, last for many months at least, and wind up buffing the part as you're standing, meaning the spot where you filed will have the same glass-like shine these pieces have after buffing. Complete game changer, and I wish I found out about them sooner. Really makes this hobby a lot easier to get into.
These are so cool
+SSP GAMES thank you.
How do you make it so shiny
Just buff and shine.
Ok thank you
Wow like a mirror but in my opinion like shiny plastic looks to cheap if you get what I mean but for the outer armor it does look ok I think it would look cool if the finish was in between like a satin finish like I wonder if it looks ok on my pg astray but I don't know it does look nice a way to get the plastic shiny with out top coat
+photondebuger45 I fully understand what you mean, you can just do first buff side if wanting satin finish. It's just that those injection marks bug the hell out of me lol
Dave's World another thing that is understandable one for me is the nubs the nub marks like I was trying to remove the nubs on my gundam kit (the pg red frame is my first gundam kit cuz that's what you do ;3) and my method didn't work too too well
+photondebuger45 I plan on updating all my old how to on things like that. I forget that their are newer modelers out there that could use the help and as time has gone by my production and quality has as well.
Dave's World yes I have seen a bit of your older videos and some of your newer ones yeah content and quality wise yeah its night and day and I'm not a long time subscriber I subscribed about a week and a half I wanna say but yeah I have seen the pretty good jump in your content
+photondebuger45 well thank you for subbing and hope to keep you entertained
dat awesome 60fps
+Mohd Azman lol ty
6 months for a block no way dude mine last like one kit
Weird, depending On what I'm working on I'll wash mine every week just to clear out sponge.
How do you wash it just water?
@Dave I recently came across one of Jenic's Build video's for the 1/60 Mazinger Model kit. In it he did showcased a very beautiful candy paint job on the finished model. The video doesn't really explain the process he went through to achieve some of the shine. I noticed he would paint pieces and then sand then paint it again but I can't tell if he polished any of the pieces or whether you're even suppose to after painting things. A lot of just looked confusing to me. If you have the time can you take a look at this and perhaps run me through what he's doing? I'd leave a comment in his video but I've seen him tell other people that his english isn't up to par and that he uses google translate.
th-cam.com/video/1U8Vul3z3-4/w-d-xo.html
Thanks :)
If he did candy he probably was hitting with like 1k grit to remove any imperfections in coating, the more layers the deeper the effect.
Too fucking long
A mature guy playing with toys ))))
Dude.. im not sure what is up with your accent.. but the way you say some words make you sound like you have some kind of “nya” factor that youd here in anime espcially from talking cats.. “painying” instead of painting, “watyer” instead of just water, “i completely got ridyof it”