Cheers very much, and I think it'll look alright though still somewhat on the fence if to use scatter/static grass for the layout for people new to the hobby, might make a video bit more dedicated to scenery and ballasting.
Glad you enjoyed it, if you're looking for part 3 it's already out, I really should work out how end cards work on youtube so it suggests the next episode heh
Ta very much, and small and simple layouts are always fun to build, very little to go wrong with them and can just build them cheaply to either try out new things or to have a break from something else.
Great James. I've been looking forward to this part two video to see how you construct the scenery out of cardboard, ( thought you'd given up and was concentrating on your main layout;) Lots of other videos I've watched seem to use polystyrene etc which looks a bit messy to me. The simple the better I say! Just curious as to how you decide the height of the scenery and tunnel when you prepare your cardboard. Experience i imagine. Also I bought some track screws rather than nails as it looked easier to fix the track down in N gauge but I found even them so tricky that I gave up and just glued the track instead. Look forward to the next installment. Cheers.
Heya Johnny, never gave up on the layout, just needed to work it in with the other videos heh, I've been tempted in using polystyrene however wasn't sure on the heat cutter, though might try out expanding foam at some point from videos I've seen it should work alright. As for the height of the upper section, best method would be to get a tunnel entrance and base the height the train needs to go under from that (bout 2-3inches), for the other raised parts of the scenery it's mostly on what looks good for that area, for grassy slopes something along 45 degrees would look quite nice while a rocky slope could go much steeper. The nails are sometimes quite fiddly, which is why I opt to use tweezers to hold them in place to hammer them in enough before using a punch (or flat end of a metal file) to finish it off. For the screws it might be worth predrilling a guide hole beforehand, but glue does work well too plus if it's something like PVA, if you need to change the layout it should be fairly easy to lift up the track! Glad you're still enjoying the videos, I'll still be working on this layout for a bit longer, might do some separate videos for more specific things if needed!
@@GosportRailworks you should NEVER strike a file or similar hardened steel item, it can shatter and small pieces can end up in your eye. The item you are using looks to be some kind of punch which is fine to strike with a hammer. What size is that baseboard please? Keep up the great work
No worries, and indeed it is, always enjoy small layouts and seeing what you can fit into them, though with this one I tried to hold back on trying to put as much as possible into it!
Another good video and and thanks for the tips. I have purchased the Hornby Select Controller as an upgrade to the Bachmann E-Z. Was this a good choice to start with? Also on your paper machea mixture I assume you used the normal PVA white glue watered down a bit. Excellent video and very enjoyable. cheers
Glad you liked it Malcolm, and I do also have the Hornby Select controller too (just not go round to using it much), and from what I've seen as another N Gauge youtuber started with one, it is a step up from the Bachmann E-Z controller and I'd say it's a good choice. Does all you really need to and is mostly straight forward to use, only thing I'm not sure it can really sort out is you want to go into CV programming but I've not gone into that myself so can't say much on that. And yep it's just the standard PVA/water mix, might want to play around to find a good ratio for what you prefer (or if for ballasting, just to help work out what works best), as always glad you enjoyed the video!
@@GosportRailworks Thanks for getting back to me! I was delighted to learn that my Hornby Select can use the same programme setting I put onto the E-Z Controller in the first instance.This is very useful and will save me time as I was not looking forward to reprogramming them again on the Select. Learning things step by step and will probably end up with a Gaugemaster but that is a long way off just yet - need to walk before I can run.lol
No worries, and as far as I know, all DCC systems are all compatible with any chip as they are (generally) designed using the same standards, might find one that might do something different (not really seen one yet, but just making sure) but swapping out the controller to a different one shouldn't be an issue. And all the information is stored on the decoder itself, so if you have three chips named #1, #2 and #3, with a different controller they will still be #1, #2 and #3 as it's coded on them. As I tell everyone about anything when getting into something new, have a play (aka test) with it on something separate to see how it differs from what you know, and once you feel comfortable with it then start using it with everything else (or something along those lines), and taking things slow is always a good method to go by!
Personally I use a Bachmann EZ Controller (the normal DC one added to their Train sets, item code: 36-565), however if it's for DC you can pretty much use any modern DC Controller. While I've not tested for N Gauge, the Hornby R8250 looks quite affordable though does need the end of the track wire either replaced with N Gauge track connectors or directly soldered to the track. Hope this helps, and is something I could do a video on.
@@GosportRailworks ok thank you i do have a north eastern Farish set at moment to for my starter set with controller but may be thinking too far ahead for the track controlling points etc.
Thinking too far ahead isn't a bad thing, just make notes of what could be useful for later when expanding, if you've just got the one loop at the moment then just a single controller will do fine, while I'm sure there wouldn't be any issues I'd get a second bachmann DC controller for a second loop as you already are familiar with how it is etc.
Technically not in Gosport, but do have a Gosport address heh, I live about halfway in between Fareham and Gosport along the old Fareham-Gosport branch line (now Eclipse Bus route)
I do agree, though wanted to make the layout change-able between the two so the future (now current) owner has the option between the two, though at the moment he's happy with DC as well!
I tend to plan things out in xtrkcad since I like to play around with the program, seeing what designs look nice before buying any track. It saves money in the long run as it does also give you the exact list of parts used and also if set up right, the complete cost of it all.
No worries, and the layout in the video was set up for both, but the current owner uses it in DC, however all my other layouts are set up as DCC as personally I find it easier, just wire all the track together (eg. all inside rails to red, all outside rails to black) and then connect to a single controller. Do need to put in insulators on electrofrog points but otherwise I've not had too many issues with DCC, always preferred it over DC as it's just a single controller controlling everything, though do have to chip each loco so is an added cost. If you end up getting a train set to start with, they are generally DC to begin with, then you'd need a DCC controller afterwards, but it would give you something to begin with, but like you before I had all my models I just played about with XTrkCAD till I got something to start with! But am always willing to help where I can, would also recommend popping by the N Gauge Forums as they are also willing to help too and have many threads about topics.
@@GosportRailworks I actually want DCC i think. So best just to buy the controller for that instead of DC controller, and ill just copy what you did to convert to DCC :D:D
This is going to be a great looking layout James great job mate looking forward to seeing more.
Cheers very much, and I think it'll look alright though still somewhat on the fence if to use scatter/static grass for the layout for people new to the hobby, might make a video bit more dedicated to scenery and ballasting.
Excellent video, look forward to the next episode
Glad you enjoyed it, if you're looking for part 3 it's already out, I really should work out how end cards work on youtube so it suggests the next episode heh
Some good work there. You have got me itching to build a small and simple oval layout now.
Ta very much, and small and simple layouts are always fun to build, very little to go wrong with them and can just build them cheaply to either try out new things or to have a break from something else.
Great job!! Can't wait for the next episode 👍
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great update James 👍
Cheers very much
Wow! Great work! Looks great.
Thank you very much, Glad you like it!
Nice progress.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great James. I've been looking forward to this part two video to see how you construct the scenery out of cardboard, ( thought you'd given up and was concentrating on your main layout;) Lots of other videos I've watched seem to use polystyrene etc which looks a bit messy to me. The simple the better I say! Just curious as to how you decide the height of the scenery and tunnel when you prepare your cardboard. Experience i imagine. Also I bought some track screws rather than nails as it looked easier to fix the track down in N gauge but I found even them so tricky that I gave up and just glued the track instead. Look forward to the next installment. Cheers.
Heya Johnny, never gave up on the layout, just needed to work it in with the other videos heh, I've been tempted in using polystyrene however wasn't sure on the heat cutter, though might try out expanding foam at some point from videos I've seen it should work alright.
As for the height of the upper section, best method would be to get a tunnel entrance and base the height the train needs to go under from that (bout 2-3inches), for the other raised parts of the scenery it's mostly on what looks good for that area, for grassy slopes something along 45 degrees would look quite nice while a rocky slope could go much steeper.
The nails are sometimes quite fiddly, which is why I opt to use tweezers to hold them in place to hammer them in enough before using a punch (or flat end of a metal file) to finish it off.
For the screws it might be worth predrilling a guide hole beforehand, but glue does work well too plus if it's something like PVA, if you need to change the layout it should be fairly easy to lift up the track!
Glad you're still enjoying the videos, I'll still be working on this layout for a bit longer, might do some separate videos for more specific things if needed!
@@GosportRailworks you should NEVER strike a file or similar hardened steel item, it can shatter and small pieces can end up in your eye. The item you are using looks to be some kind of punch which is fine to strike with a hammer.
What size is that baseboard please?
Keep up the great work
First of all, cheers for the safety advice, and the baseboard is roughly 3ft by 2ft
@@GosportRailworks Thank you. Wow thats lovely and compact.
No worries, and indeed it is, always enjoy small layouts and seeing what you can fit into them, though with this one I tried to hold back on trying to put as much as possible into it!
Great stuff thank you. Most helpful
Glad that you found it helpful!
Thank you for an inspiring video
You're welcome, glad that you found it useful!
Another good video and and thanks for the tips. I have purchased the Hornby Select Controller as an upgrade to the Bachmann E-Z. Was this a good choice to start with? Also on your paper machea mixture I assume you used the normal PVA white glue watered down a bit. Excellent video and very enjoyable. cheers
Glad you liked it Malcolm, and I do also have the Hornby Select controller too (just not go round to using it much), and from what I've seen as another N Gauge youtuber started with one, it is a step up from the Bachmann E-Z controller and I'd say it's a good choice. Does all you really need to and is mostly straight forward to use, only thing I'm not sure it can really sort out is you want to go into CV programming but I've not gone into that myself so can't say much on that.
And yep it's just the standard PVA/water mix, might want to play around to find a good ratio for what you prefer (or if for ballasting, just to help work out what works best), as always glad you enjoyed the video!
@@GosportRailworks Thanks for getting back to me! I was delighted to learn that my Hornby Select can use the same programme setting I put onto the E-Z Controller in the first instance.This is very useful and will save me time as I was not looking forward to reprogramming them again on the Select. Learning things step by step and will probably end up with a Gaugemaster but that is a long way off just yet - need to walk before I can run.lol
No worries, and as far as I know, all DCC systems are all compatible with any chip as they are (generally) designed using the same standards, might find one that might do something different (not really seen one yet, but just making sure) but swapping out the controller to a different one shouldn't be an issue.
And all the information is stored on the decoder itself, so if you have three chips named #1, #2 and #3, with a different controller they will still be #1, #2 and #3 as it's coded on them.
As I tell everyone about anything when getting into something new, have a play (aka test) with it on something separate to see how it differs from what you know, and once you feel comfortable with it then start using it with everything else (or something along those lines), and taking things slow is always a good method to go by!
Nice ballast method, what radius are the curves
Ta very much and they are first radius curves as they fit well with the set track points on the curves.
@@GosportRailworks I will be using that method
Great video. Liked and Subscribed
Cheers very much and thanks for subscribing!
Can u recommend a speed controller for n gauge as when i look, things get a bit complicated for myself as a beginner thank you
Personally I use a Bachmann EZ Controller (the normal DC one added to their Train sets, item code: 36-565), however if it's for DC you can pretty much use any modern DC Controller.
While I've not tested for N Gauge, the Hornby R8250 looks quite affordable though does need the end of the track wire either replaced with N Gauge track connectors or directly soldered to the track.
Hope this helps, and is something I could do a video on.
@@GosportRailworks ok thank you i do have a north eastern Farish set at moment to for my starter set with controller but may be thinking too far ahead for the track controlling points etc.
Thinking too far ahead isn't a bad thing, just make notes of what could be useful for later when expanding, if you've just got the one loop at the moment then just a single controller will do fine, while I'm sure there wouldn't be any issues I'd get a second bachmann DC controller for a second loop as you already are familiar with how it is etc.
Are you based in Gosport? as I am
Technically not in Gosport, but do have a Gosport address heh, I live about halfway in between Fareham and Gosport along the old Fareham-Gosport branch line (now Eclipse Bus route)
Nothing wrong with Dc I am Dc Myself.
I do agree, though wanted to make the layout change-able between the two so the future (now current) owner has the option between the two, though at the moment he's happy with DC as well!
Why do you need to plan it out with that computer software? cant you just plan it out with the tracks and get it to fit like that?
I tend to plan things out in xtrkcad since I like to play around with the program, seeing what designs look nice before buying any track.
It saves money in the long run as it does also give you the exact list of parts used and also if set up right, the complete cost of it all.
@@GosportRailworks Thanks for the quick reply.
No worries, and the layout in the video was set up for both, but the current owner uses it in DC, however all my other layouts are set up as DCC as personally I find it easier, just wire all the track together (eg. all inside rails to red, all outside rails to black) and then connect to a single controller.
Do need to put in insulators on electrofrog points but otherwise I've not had too many issues with DCC, always preferred it over DC as it's just a single controller controlling everything, though do have to chip each loco so is an added cost.
If you end up getting a train set to start with, they are generally DC to begin with, then you'd need a DCC controller afterwards, but it would give you something to begin with, but like you before I had all my models I just played about with XTrkCAD till I got something to start with!
But am always willing to help where I can, would also recommend popping by the N Gauge Forums as they are also willing to help too and have many threads about topics.
@@GosportRailworks You're awsome, sorry i deleted comment before this one. Thanks so much.
@@GosportRailworks I actually want DCC i think. So best just to buy the controller for that instead of DC controller, and ill just copy what you did to convert to DCC :D:D