I watched at least 10 videos about spot repair, refinish. This is by FAR the best and most complete video with no wasted time on 'small talk'. Excellent 2 part series. Thank you Tony!
Great couple of videos ! I haven't done any painting in more than 30 years, but this has inspired me to pick up my gun and tackle a couple of little dings to my son's truck, and daughter in law's car.
By far the best, easiest to understand how-to video on blending clear. I usually paint entire panels but I've got a smart repair to do on a Peugeot 206 cc next week and I was a bit worried about the blending part of the job. Not any more!!!!!
Thanks for your time and effort painting for me is a hobby something I enjoy doing in my spare time I've learned a lot from you the gunman and motivated painters I'm actually a skilled Mason Repair Mason with 45 years experience this is giving me some motivation to make a videos to help people do jobs such as building a brick mailbox thanks for your vids.
Thanks man and why not share your skills with the world too buddy you never know who it could help and in what way either , great to have you on the channel
AMAZING !! EXACTLY WHAT I HAVE BEEN LOOKING FOR FOR MONTHE NOW . I GOTTA DO A LITTLE REPAIR ON MY DAUGHTERS JEEP . WELL MORE THAN ONE DENT SEEMS SHE CANT NAVIGATE THE GARAGE . I KNOW I CAN DO THIS NOW !! IM RETIRED AND GOT THE BRIGHT IDEA TO DO A LITTLE BODY WORK . ALMOST GAVE UP BUT IM GETTING BETTER EVERYDAY . NOW THAT I SEE YOU DO THIS IN AGARAQGE JUST LIKE MINE IM SET TO GO AND CONFIDENT THANX TONY !!
Thank you very much Tony. I've been watching many videos online on paint blending, and can categorically say that, yours is straight forward, more clinical and finally, simply the best for you've really taught me what I needed to know with blending the new to the old. Once again, I thank you very much from the bottom of my heart.. I'm gonna get the heat lamp.
Great information. As far as what I would like too see is the trim removal for paint prep removal and instalation of trim door sill guards. The plastic guards being removed from say the top of an SUV. Window felt and window sweeps weather stripping all the little things you need to remove and reinstall on a car new and old before you paint and then when putting it all back together. It may take a while to compile several cars on one video or two but it would be the most desired thing I would want to see
Hi Tony. I enjoyed watching both parts 1 and 2. Great to see an expert doing a complete repair. I look forward to watching your other videos. Thanks and cheers from OZ. Chris.
Great content. For years I've done repairs using rattle cans. I do have a can of fade out but never used it.... I'll use it now :) I'm on the cusp of buying spray gear to get a better finish - I think I get about 80% of what a pro can do. Interesting that you flat off into old clearcoat and then mask off. My bodge way was to keep repair small and then prep in the same way - but base/colour coat I would spray out and have dry edges (not using masking) and then hit that with worn out 2000 grit to remove the rough surface and feather the edges of the base towards the prepped clear area. Then I'd stick clear coat on...again not using fade out - I'd feather the clear coat into old clear coat. Overspray I'd keep down by masking off adjacent areas. To get the finish I'd use 2000 or 3000 grit by hand (I don't have a DA) and then blend it all together with G3 and G10 and final autoglym. Everyone probably thinking "oooohhhhh ouch ooohhh noooooo" it's all self taught and learned by mistake. It's only this last month I've started looking online for tips. So thank you :)
Great video, the best detailed video I have seen. The problem here is how to get exact match colours on 7 years old car. Even colour from manufacturer may vary a little
nice finish, good blend. i go always over the blending area with the spot blender into the polished ild clearcoat. if you do anything right both works-and that was a good job.
I've watched this video many times and never really caught that neat Sealey 3" polisher there. The same very tool is also available as an excenter-sander with 2.5mm hub, which is what i'm using for a while now -it's awesome! So i just checked the internet for the polisher now and found it for £32 incl. shipping. Bargain alert, bought one right away!! I hope it's as good as the excenter version. THANKS :)
+Chuck Thomas lol it's a good little polisher mate bit loud but does the job great for the money I've had mine a year or two now and works a treat still
Mine arrived some days ago and turning it with that little wrench on the collet, i noticed that on a full turn it had some very rough spots. I took it apart and found the planet gears totally dry. I added some thick bicycle chain lube to the gears and it runs great now, but caution: excess oil blows out from the collet on first use! All the internal components show surprisingly good machining and overall quality, they don't give the impression of the usual cheap chinaware (except for the chinese bearings of course), so i guess the tool will last me a long time! An important note from the manual that i'd like to leave here: "4.3. Press trigger to start the polisher, release trigger to stop" There you go :)
Tony great job. A question on the first video you said you would take the tape off once your spraying lacquer. You sprayed the clear with the tape on then you took it off, which is fine but I didn’t notice you cleaning the surface were you took the tape off as I would of been concern about the sticky residue left on there. Then realized you went straight over it with the clear. Amazing...but is this correct.
ive just had to re watch this to answer this lol, so ive taken the outside tape off that we blended the clear up to and then added the fade out thinner over the area the first tape came off from, unless youve had the tape on for a very long time and or its got cold and damp then proper masking tape wont leave any residue on the panel buddy, hope this helps
Great video Tony. Do you ever change the gun settings for the there coats of primer, base or clear or are the hun settings the same theoughout the theee coats?
Yes, i like the how you explain slowly, so we can understand. i always used the ordinary reduced. but i can see that the blending tinner doo a better job . thanks for that experience it did help. ? what is the best buffing pad to buff a black paint job. and compound recommend to get a great fenish. i will be listening bless.
Hi Tony, great to see you back on the Tube with your excellent and informative videos. I especially liked the Ford Anglia series as I'm helping my mate restore his MG Midget using direct gloss and until now hadn't seen any footage regarding flatting and polishing that type of paint. So thanks for that. I'm not a painter by trade but do lots of accident damaged trucks and vans at work in poor conditions my biggest enemy is dust! Keep up the good work mate your videos are brilliant!
best thing mate is just wet your floor and walls down , i also find a touch of soap (tfr or washing up liquid) helps keep it wetter longer, and great to be back mate trying to get the videos better
Nice job. I have a dent like that in the centre of a bonnet. Really don't want to paint whole bonnet as the rest is all good. I suppose same process just blend out in all directions
Great vid. Watch and learn as the saying goes .I've watched this and feel that I've learnt a lot. Looking forward to trying this out on my prius. Only trouble is I will have to use rattle cans. Just wondering how I can blend the clear coat using the cans.
This was a super clear video, thanks for making it! Just 2 questions based on attempting a small repair on a 25 year old Mk1 MX5 with single stage paint. I plan to use a 2k single stage rattle can. Could I still use fade out thinners in an airbrush on single stage paint? Secondly, any tips on how to find a rattle can that would match the classic red paint? Would it need to be custom mixed having been analysed? Thanks in advance, and sorry for the questions on an old video.
Great job fella. So interesting. Im having to refresh myself on this for a new job Im starting. Thank you so much. I have a question about fadeout thinners. And another way I have seen it used if you sprayed the fadeout area to soften the old paint first then started to do your lacquer only bringing your second Cote up to your pre softened fade out area. Would it melt the new and old paint better rather than just spraying fade out over your finished blend to melt the blend edge on just the outside? . My problem is the paint I’m blending onto is a bit old and oxidized and I’m worried that when I start polishing It might start tearing back. Has happened to me before even when I have keyed it with 1500. Or dose the lacquer freak out if you spray it on top of a area that has been softened with fade out. Thanks again
Great video, I recently finished painting a 79 TA and have a couple of issues where I either chipped the paint or was not paying attention and sanders through the color. After watching this I am ready to tackle the repairs and blending but what is the fade out thinner? When I painted the car I used no thinner in the paint just an activator. Any help Is appreciated, thank you in advance.
Hi Tony Great video indeed. Very informative and well explained. Tony, my alpine white BMW has a small dent in the upper area of the driver’s side door panel just to the left of the door handle. Will i need to apply clear coat to the entire door panel so everything blends correctly or would i be able just apply basecoat/clear to the small repair area and then blend it as you did in this video? I am not a professional painter but would really like to repair this as its the only dent the entire factory paint finish has. Car is in mint condition. Just need to fix that dent on the door Thanks and keep making these great videos!!! Mark
Hi Tony, like many people have commented..... this is by far the best tutorial i have seen mate. Brilliant!! On that note, i have a few people that want some small spot repairs done on their cars. Can you recommend a good mini/midi gun? I was looking at the Iwata Junior? Cheers 👍👌
Amazing. My car was painted last week. Now the front bumper has some issues. Took it to another shop. They said they have to paint the entire bumper. I know some people can do spot repairs. I need to find one who can do this kind of work. I don't have the time to do it.
Great video Tony, really good to learn stuff like this. One basic video i would like to see one day is a small tutorial on how to set your gun up. That is something i struggle with all the time. I always end up with a very large amount of orange peel. I get around it with a lot of flat and polishing (which i learnt from one of your fantastic videos), but i really would love to learn how to avoid excess orange peel in the first place. I get so frustrated after spending so long on the repair and prep, only to see the paint go wrong.
hi Steve firstly thanks for watching and the comments on the videos its great to see people get something from all the hard work we put into this channel, can you tell me if you use HS or MS clearcoat and also roughly the type of gun you use so i can try and get things in to make this video to help you out , excellent idea for a video too
Hi Tony, thanks for the rep[y, i use MS clearcoat (colomix anti-scratch) and the guns i use are the DeVilbiss FLG-G5 and the A.N.I - R150 mini gun, both with a 1.2 nozzle. I set the air between 20 - 25psi. At the moment i only have a cheap pressure regulator on the guns, i am wondering if that might be partly responsible. A video would be great at some point in the future, just something that explains what effect things like air pressure, fluid adjustment etc will have. Many thanks once again.
Excellent job and tutorial. I have learned a lot from your videos. I hope you will do some tutorial on how to do smart repair on pearl or 3 stage paint
Great video. Thank you. I have just started my project. I've been taking notes to follow in order. Might be asking too much, but was wondering if you might be able to add a suggested Bill of Material for us novices? I never realized how many tools and products are required. Thanks again.
how do you mean buddy as in what cost wise a job like this would take to do, and yes you would be amazed if you came into our shop for an hour just how much and many different items of stock we have to carry
If it was bits that stood out in colour difference or large bits yes but otherwise you will find clear will bury slight dust if your using a good high body clear
Hi Thanks for this vid from which I have learned a lot. A few points I want to raise. You don't comment on what you are actually doing at every step. You talk about something else. You don't show CLEARLY up to where you are sanding with which grit paper and up to where you are sanding with a different grit. Sometimes we are under that you are wet sanding but we are not too sure. I think you should show in more close up detail how you are folding the masking tape and how you are putting another one on top of it. I have watched you video 5 times to understand and I still am not too sure that I have got it in but I will give it a try. Anyway thanks again
Hi joe these videos are very hard to shoot to include ever detail in as much detail as your are asking above and tbh most people say the opposite about this video that it has helped them a lot rather than a lot of Criticism about the methods , filming or how it’s shown , we do our best for people to show as much as we can but if we were to show every single step in every single detail then the videos would be hours or a day long which just isn’t an option
Nice video, thanks. Does it have to be specific blending reducers rather than just using the standard reducer from whichever clear coat system you are using? What did you use in this video?
That seems like a pretty big area to sand, fill, paint etc, for what was such a small dent, is it really necessary to take it to such a large area. I have a small paint chip on my fender, (about 1cm square) where only the clear coat has been damaged, there is no metal showing through and I want to repair it, do I need to take it to such a large area and do I need to fill it (or jsut sand it down to level) and then add a few coats of colour match paint and then spray on a top coat?
Is there any additional steps involved when you do rust repair? Im going to fix my rust spots on my BMW and was going to use phosphoric acid and rust stop primer. is that necessery? Or du i need anything else? Thanks for a great video!
Hi thanks for the video great skills. Question, What is fade out thinners? Is it a special product or just clear coat mixed with more thinners? I plan on trying this sort of job on a metallic blue with a 2k clear on top. When doing small repairs I usually just cover the whole panel with base and then clear the whole bumper but id like to learn this technique to minimize repair area.
+lee pasquill thanks buddy lol and it's just a lot of practice over the years that's all , and it's not to hard follow the simple steps right and it's easy to achieve a good repair like this
Tony what I'd love to see more of, and what is really lacking online, is to do all these processes using 1K acrylic lacquer color and clear. ... I use 1k lacquer at home because it is much easier and less toxic to manage in a home environment. However, it does behave differently to 2K paints. For example, I always use much finer papers that are generally recommended with 2K so when you use 3000 grit, that's right up my alley. Also, I allow plenty of time (weeks) for all solvents to evaporate before sanding and flattening any orange peel. Beyond that I find blending is a more delicate process and products like 1k blend thinners and hard to find it seems. Finally blend sanding can be tricky with acrylic lacquer clear coat. If you don't wait long enough for it dry completely, you can easily peel back the clear coat edges and not matter how much you sand and how fine you go it just keeps peeling back. You end up clearing the whole panel. I'm no expert and the techniques and using the techniques with acrylic lacquer 1k products so i'm very keen to see much more ... I know it's considered an inferior paint and clear, but you have to do what suits your painting environment best. Anyhow, be great if you could do some of this.
It depends how far the burn goes it would have to be bloody good to need repainting , but tbh this is a blow in style / smart repair that I don’t often do , this was made just to show how it can be done I personally prefer to reclear a Panel for a nicer final lasting result
Thanks for the upload Tony. I did a quick repair to bumper with just rattle cans had available, came out OK apart from blend line from new to old, what is best way of trying to fade that line now colour and clear has been down for 24 hours, not brand new car but still want the job to look as good as I can with the limited items have to utilise. Do I wet sand and buff? Thanks if can help
very good video i am 81 and it was hard to hear what you were saying,sounded garbled i have small area to repair and the video will help me to do it right thanks.
next time we get a car in with that kind of repair il definitely get some footage done and make a video weve been asked a few times for this , thanks for watching
blending thinner basically melts the old paint surface slightly heling the new paint to fuse to it on your blending edge if done right meaning an invisible join
I watched at least 10 videos about spot repair, refinish. This is by FAR the best and most complete video with no wasted time on 'small talk'. Excellent 2 part series. Thank you Tony!
Wow, thanks mate and glad its helped
@@TonysRefinishingTV yep.. looking at other videos I always ended up with some questions and doubts. This one is the best.
Great couple of videos ! I haven't done any painting in more than 30 years, but this has inspired me to pick up my gun and tackle a couple of little dings to my son's truck, and daughter in law's car.
No wonder the view count shot up so quickly, just came across part1/2 and the best videos I've seen on this subject. Subbed 👍
By far the best, easiest to understand how-to video on blending clear. I usually paint entire panels but I've got a smart repair to do on a Peugeot 206 cc next week and I was a bit worried about the blending part of the job. Not any more!!!!!
+Matty Detailer thanks Matt great to hear feedback like that and glad it's helped buddy
Thanks for your time and effort painting for me is a hobby something I enjoy doing in my spare time I've learned a lot from you the gunman and motivated painters I'm actually a skilled Mason Repair Mason with 45 years experience this is giving me some motivation to make a videos to help people do jobs such as building a brick mailbox thanks for your vids.
Thanks man and why not share your skills with the world too buddy you never know who it could help and in what way either , great to have you on the channel
AMAZING !! EXACTLY WHAT I HAVE BEEN LOOKING FOR FOR MONTHE NOW . I GOTTA DO A LITTLE REPAIR ON MY DAUGHTERS JEEP . WELL MORE THAN ONE DENT SEEMS SHE CANT NAVIGATE THE GARAGE . I KNOW I CAN DO THIS NOW !! IM RETIRED AND GOT THE BRIGHT IDEA TO DO A LITTLE BODY WORK . ALMOST GAVE UP BUT IM GETTING BETTER EVERYDAY . NOW THAT I SEE YOU DO THIS IN AGARAQGE JUST LIKE MINE IM SET TO GO AND CONFIDENT THANX TONY !!
Thank you very much Tony. I've been watching many videos online on paint blending, and can categorically say that, yours is straight forward, more clinical and finally, simply the best for you've really taught me what I needed to know with blending the new to the old. Once again, I thank you very much from the bottom of my heart.. I'm gonna get the heat lamp.
Great information. As far as what I would like too see is the trim removal for paint prep removal and instalation of trim door sill guards. The plastic guards being removed from say the top of an SUV. Window felt and window sweeps weather stripping all the little things you need to remove and reinstall on a car new and old before you paint and then when putting it all back together. It may take a while to compile several cars on one video or two but it would be the most desired thing I would want to see
Thanks so much. Going to start my repair right now!
Excellent presentation! This is like the typical job I have to do; I learned a lot. Thanks Tony!
best smart repair video ive seen so far. very informative and good video quality.
+Israr Ahmed Thankyou
A dam good one.
Thanks tom
Hi Tony. I enjoyed watching both parts 1 and 2. Great to see an expert doing a complete repair. I look forward to watching your other videos. Thanks and cheers from OZ. Chris.
Glad you enjoyed it chris and hope you enjoy our others
Hi Tony.Another fantastic demonstration. And you picked the hardest colour.You're keeping your standards high.Well done...
thanks deno and thanks for watching
I must say this is one of the best explanations on spot repairs Ive seen.....Thank yo..Tony. A Kiwi living in Aussie.
Thanks man and thankyou for watching and commenting on the videos too buddy
Great content.
For years I've done repairs using rattle cans. I do have a can of fade out but never used it.... I'll use it now :)
I'm on the cusp of buying spray gear to get a better finish - I think I get about 80% of what a pro can do. Interesting that you flat off into old clearcoat and then mask off. My bodge way was to keep repair small and then prep in the same way - but base/colour coat I would spray out and have dry edges (not using masking) and then hit that with worn out 2000 grit to remove the rough surface and feather the edges of the base towards the prepped clear area. Then I'd stick clear coat on...again not using fade out - I'd feather the clear coat into old clear coat. Overspray I'd keep down by masking off adjacent areas.
To get the finish I'd use 2000 or 3000 grit by hand (I don't have a DA) and then blend it all together with G3 and G10 and final autoglym.
Everyone probably thinking "oooohhhhh ouch ooohhh noooooo" it's all self taught and learned by mistake. It's only this last month I've started looking online for tips.
So thank you :)
Your most welcome mate and hope the videos help you progress on your journey further
Great video, the best detailed video I have seen. The problem here is how to get exact match colours on 7 years old car. Even colour from manufacturer may vary a little
That’s an issue wether it’s a brand new car or an older car tbh it’ll depend on how good the suppliers are at colour matching and or yourself
Superb tutorial for the average person. Very much appreciate you doing this. 👍
No problem 👍
This is brilliant. So helpful. I'm going to try and repair my front wing and this is a really good tutorial. 👍
Thanks Hobert and your welcome mate
Thanks for the video mate ,very useful info which will help me with my cars thank you
Thanks for the vid. I’m starting out on these after years of wood finishing. Been really helpful. Cheers!👍🏼
Awesome nick glad you can join us
Superb video and lesson. Qu how long to leave the panel after polish before waxing
Appreciate the level of detail. Great video.
Thankyou
nice finish, good blend.
i go always over the blending area with the spot blender into the polished ild clearcoat.
if you do anything right both works-and that was a good job.
thanks man and thanks for watching
I've watched this video many times and never really caught that neat Sealey 3" polisher there. The same very tool is also available as an excenter-sander with 2.5mm hub, which is what i'm using for a while now -it's awesome! So i just checked the internet for the polisher now and found it for £32 incl. shipping. Bargain alert, bought one right away!! I hope it's as good as the excenter version. THANKS :)
+Chuck Thomas lol it's a good little polisher mate bit loud but does the job great for the money I've had mine a year or two now and works a treat still
Mine arrived some days ago and turning it with that little wrench on the collet, i noticed that on a full turn it had some very rough spots. I took it apart and found the planet gears totally dry. I added some thick bicycle chain lube to the gears and it runs great now, but caution: excess oil blows out from the collet on first use! All the internal components show surprisingly good machining and overall quality, they don't give the impression of the usual cheap chinaware (except for the chinese bearings of course), so i guess the tool will last me a long time! An important note from the manual that i'd like to leave here: "4.3. Press trigger to start the polisher, release trigger to stop" There you go :)
Great stuff Tony. was watching this just whilst on the longest coach journey ever. good job
+Drew Vale thanks drew and hope it kept you entertained lol
Tony great job.
A question on the first video you said you would take the tape off once your spraying lacquer.
You sprayed the clear with the tape on then you took it off, which is fine but I didn’t notice you cleaning the surface were you took the tape off as I would of been concern about the sticky residue left on there.
Then realized you went straight over it with the clear.
Amazing...but is this correct.
ive just had to re watch this to answer this lol, so ive taken the outside tape off that we blended the clear up to and then added the fade out thinner over the area the first tape came off from, unless youve had the tape on for a very long time and or its got cold and damp then proper masking tape wont leave any residue on the panel buddy, hope this helps
Very nice video! Can I get to a quality finish that lasts long by using spray cans without a heat lamp?
Great video Tony. Do you ever change the gun settings for the there coats of primer, base or clear or are the hun settings the same theoughout the theee coats?
Yes, i like the how you explain slowly, so we can understand. i always used the ordinary reduced. but i can see that the blending tinner doo a better job . thanks for that experience it did help. ? what is the best buffing pad to buff a black paint job. and compound recommend to get a great fenish. i will be listening bless.
Hi Tony, great to see you back on the Tube with your excellent and informative videos. I especially liked the Ford Anglia series as I'm helping my mate restore his MG Midget using direct gloss and until now hadn't seen any footage regarding flatting and polishing that type of paint. So thanks for that. I'm not a painter by trade but do lots of accident damaged trucks and vans at work in poor conditions my biggest enemy is dust! Keep up the good work mate your videos are brilliant!
best thing mate is just wet your floor and walls down , i also find a touch of soap (tfr or washing up liquid) helps keep it wetter longer, and great to be back mate trying to get the videos better
Nice job. I have a dent like that in the centre of a bonnet. Really don't want to paint whole bonnet as the rest is all good. I suppose same process just blend out in all directions
great tutorial. one question , any tips if your base coat is metallic silver ?
Same as buddy but you’d need to make sure you had an absolutely great match
Great video mate... Is it as easy to work on roof smart repairs?
Great vid. Watch and learn as the saying goes .I've watched this and feel that I've learnt a lot. Looking forward to trying this out on my prius. Only trouble is I will have to use rattle cans. Just wondering how I can blend the clear coat using the cans.
gary collings you can buy fade out thinner in an aerosol too buddy that would work for you will be hard with cans though mate I won’t lie
Should I be using a DA or not on the polishing? What would be the stages of polishing compounds? Great video and presentation.
I think part two of this video goes through the polishing stage if I remember correctly mate
Love this 2 part series. Thanks for sharing the process. Can you comment on how quickly the reducer is applied after the last coat of clear?
It can be done ideally as soon as possible while it’s still nice and wet
@@TonysRefinishingTV thx. can't wait to try this out.
Great dude! Much prefer the long run videos. Keep them coming.
UpToSpeed thanks fella
Great video. It's nice that you pass your knowledge to others. God bless you.
Thanks buddy
Great video, very informative. Thanks Tony :)
Nice work Tony
Great video I love watching a true professional.
Thanks buddy but I’m just a painter sharing his work to help others
This was a super clear video, thanks for making it! Just 2 questions based on attempting a small repair on a 25 year old Mk1 MX5 with single stage paint. I plan to use a 2k single stage rattle can. Could I still use fade out thinners in an airbrush on single stage paint? Secondly, any tips on how to find a rattle can that would match the classic red paint? Would it need to be custom mixed having been analysed? Thanks in advance, and sorry for the questions on an old video.
Very helpfull video. Love all the details. Thank you!
That's really nice!! Can you use the same methods for single stage or can you do one on single stage repair small area
hi mate yes you can do the same with gloss too but you need to make sure your c=match is a good one with gloss
Great job fella. So interesting. Im having to refresh myself on this for a new job Im starting. Thank you so much. I have a question about fadeout thinners. And another way I have seen it used if you sprayed the fadeout area to soften the old paint first then started to do your lacquer only bringing your second Cote up to your pre softened fade out area. Would it melt the new and old paint better rather than just spraying fade out over your finished blend to melt the blend edge on just the outside? . My problem is the paint I’m blending onto is a bit old and oxidized and I’m worried that when I start polishing It might start tearing back. Has happened to me before even when I have keyed it with 1500. Or dose the lacquer freak out if you spray it on top of a area that has been softened with fade out. Thanks again
Personally mate I wouldn’t be doing it that way round mate by spraying it first kinda like a disaster waiting to happen tbh
Very nice video!! I was wondering, can u scuff the base Coate before the clear coate?
Very helpful & informative...thank you. ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️.
thanks for watching katie
The best video I watched
Great video, I recently finished painting a 79 TA and have a couple of issues where I either chipped the paint or was not paying attention and sanders through the color. After watching this I am ready to tackle the repairs and blending but what is the fade out thinner? When I painted the car I used no thinner in the paint just an activator. Any help
Is appreciated, thank you in advance.
Nice 👍 job thanks did you polish after 30 minutes
Great video and thank you, Can you tell me what size tip you have in the sata gun please, Thank you.
GREAT VIDEO .. What kind of reducer/blender can I use? Newbee here .. Thx
Hi Tony
Great video indeed. Very informative and well explained.
Tony, my alpine white BMW has a small dent in the upper area of the driver’s side door panel just to the left of the door handle. Will i need to apply clear coat to the entire door panel so everything blends correctly or would i be able just apply basecoat/clear to the small repair area and then blend it as you did in this video? I am not a professional painter but would really like to repair this as its the only dent the entire factory paint finish has. Car is in mint condition. Just need to fix that dent on the door
Thanks and keep making these great videos!!!
Mark
Thanks mark
Hi Tony, like many people have commented..... this is by far the best tutorial i have seen mate. Brilliant!! On that note, i have a few people that want some small spot repairs done on their cars. Can you recommend a good mini/midi gun? I was looking at the Iwata Junior? Cheers 👍👌
Hi Steve thanks mate , and yes the iwata junior mate is an ideal gun for spot repair work
Love that little job good stuff
Thanks dale
Amazing. My car was painted last week. Now the front bumper has some issues. Took it to another shop. They said they have to paint the entire bumper. I know some people can do spot repairs. I need to find one who can do this kind of work. I don't have the time to do it.
Great video Tony, really good to learn stuff like this. One basic video i would like to see one day is a small tutorial on how to set your gun up. That is something i struggle with all the time. I always end up with a very large amount of orange peel. I get around it with a lot of flat and polishing (which i learnt from one of your fantastic videos), but i really would love to learn how to avoid excess orange peel in the first place. I get so frustrated after spending so long on the repair and prep, only to see the paint go wrong.
hi Steve firstly thanks for watching and the comments on the videos its great to see people get something from all the hard work we put into this channel, can you tell me if you use HS or MS clearcoat and also roughly the type of gun you use so i can try and get things in to make this video to help you out , excellent idea for a video too
Hi Tony, thanks for the rep[y, i use MS clearcoat (colomix anti-scratch) and the guns i use are the DeVilbiss FLG-G5 and the A.N.I - R150 mini gun, both with a 1.2 nozzle. I set the air between 20 - 25psi. At the moment i only have a cheap pressure regulator on the guns, i am wondering if that might be partly responsible. A video would be great at some point in the future, just something that explains what effect things like air pressure, fluid adjustment etc will have. Many thanks once again.
First class tutorial, You could earn a living be in the teaching business mate!
Lol funny you should say that I’ve been offered a few positions this year doing just that
Great video 👍 thanks for taking the time to make it, plenty of tips ile be using, excellent.
your welcome james thanks for watching
Excellent job and tutorial. I have learned a lot from your videos. I hope you will do some tutorial on how to do smart repair on pearl or 3 stage paint
Great suggestion!
Great video. Thank you. I have just started my project. I've been taking notes to follow in order. Might be asking too much, but was wondering if you might be able to add a suggested Bill of Material for us novices? I never realized how many tools and products are required. Thanks again.
how do you mean buddy as in what cost wise a job like this would take to do, and yes you would be amazed if you came into our shop for an hour just how much and many different items of stock we have to carry
A very helpful and well done video - awesome repair too! Thank you for sharing your amazing knowledge and skills.
Your welcome mate
Very helpful video for a beginner DIY-er
Thanks Tom
Great video Tony...if you get bits land in your basecoat do you flat them out or just leave them ?...Many Thanks 👍
If it was bits that stood out in colour difference or large bits yes but otherwise you will find clear will bury slight dust if your using a good high body clear
Tonys_Refinishing Thanks for the reply Tony,do you rate the Kapci clearcoat and if not what clear would you recommend.....Cheers bud
Excellent! How much time between clear coat application & blending? Immediately after, before it dries?
Hi
Thanks for this vid from which I have learned a lot.
A few points I want to raise.
You don't comment on what you are actually doing at every step. You talk about something else.
You don't show CLEARLY up to where you are sanding with which grit paper and up to where you are sanding with a different grit. Sometimes we are under that you are wet sanding but we are not too sure.
I think you should show in more close up detail how you are folding the masking tape and how you are putting another one on top of it.
I have watched you video 5 times to understand and I still am not too sure that I have got it in but I will give it a try.
Anyway thanks again
Hi joe these videos are very hard to shoot to include ever detail in as much detail as your are asking above and tbh most people say the opposite about this video that it has helped them a lot rather than a lot of Criticism about the methods , filming or how it’s shown , we do our best for people to show as much as we can but if we were to show every single step in every single detail then the videos would be hours or a day long which just isn’t an option
Nice video, thanks. Does it have to be specific blending reducers rather than just using the standard reducer from whichever clear coat system you are using? What did you use in this video?
You can use either but blending thinner is best mate
every time i paint some beetle or bug walks in my paint, you do good work.
lol believe me that happens to us all mate and thankyou Wayne
Good video !!! Very informative and you keep it fairly simple. And are clear in instructions. Thanks
thanks mike
Lovely job, thank you so much for sharing with us!
No problem and thanks for watching
Could you use a blend thinner on a solid colour celly spot repair on a classic ?
Thank you!!! Well done!! You will be saving me loads of time!!!
No problem
That seems like a pretty big area to sand, fill, paint etc, for what was such a small dent, is it really necessary to take it to such a large area. I have a small paint chip on my fender, (about 1cm square) where only the clear coat has been damaged, there is no metal showing through and I want to repair it, do I need to take it to such a large area and do I need to fill it (or jsut sand it down to level) and then add a few coats of colour match paint and then spray on a top coat?
Great video just wondered the area that you spray your colour on does that have to have all the original clear removed ?
no mate aslong as the clear is keyed you can paint ontop of / over it
@@TonysRefinishingTV thanks
Great video.Just a quick one.Can i 3000 grit my base coat before i clear coat if needed on pearlescent. Thanks
No you shouldn’t sand base before clear
@@TonysRefinishingTV Thanks Tony
Is there any additional steps involved when you do rust repair? Im going to fix my rust spots on my BMW and was going to use phosphoric acid and rust stop primer. is that necessery? Or du i need anything else? Thanks for a great video!
Hi thanks for the video great skills. Question, What is fade out thinners? Is it a special product or just clear coat mixed with more thinners?
I plan on trying this sort of job on a metallic blue with a 2k clear on top. When doing small repairs I usually just cover the whole panel with base and then clear the whole bumper but id like to learn this technique to minimize repair area.
its a special thinners that helps to melt old paint to new to help prevent clearcoat blends from being visable
Great video's Tony very. Well explained top job.
Thanks fella
hi tony, yet again another boss job and vid, love the info and product info.
you make it look so easy pal
+lee pasquill thanks buddy lol and it's just a lot of practice over the years that's all , and it's not to hard follow the simple steps right and it's easy to achieve a good repair like this
Good smart repair tutorial. Many thanks
your welcome and thanks for watching
Fantastic video mate and great work. Great to see a fellow Manc with so cracking content 👍🏻
Thanks man 😊
Ok time to fix that door dent!!! Thx Tony 🍺😎🤘
+Scott F lol your welcome Scott
Great video in detail and well explained brother thanks so much!
your welcome thanks for watching
Tony what I'd love to see more of, and what is really lacking online, is to do all these processes using 1K acrylic lacquer color and clear. ... I use 1k lacquer at home because it is much easier and less toxic to manage in a home environment. However, it does behave differently to 2K paints. For example, I always use much finer papers that are generally recommended with 2K so when you use 3000 grit, that's right up my alley. Also, I allow plenty of time (weeks) for all solvents to evaporate before sanding and flattening any orange peel. Beyond that I find blending is a more delicate process and products like 1k blend thinners and hard to find it seems. Finally blend sanding can be tricky with acrylic lacquer clear coat. If you don't wait long enough for it dry completely, you can easily peel back the clear coat edges and not matter how much you sand and how fine you go it just keeps peeling back. You end up clearing the whole panel. I'm no expert and the techniques and using the techniques with acrylic lacquer 1k products so i'm very keen to see much more ... I know it's considered an inferior paint and clear, but you have to do what suits your painting environment best. Anyhow, be great if you could do some of this.
Useful tips thanks Tony great job as usual.
Thanks
Great work! Thanks for sharing these valuable tips and techniquies!
Your welcome thanks for watching
Great video, I learned a lot from your flawless repair. Keep the videos coming
Great learning video, would you use the same process for a fender with buffer burn in the paint?
It depends how far the burn goes it would have to be bloody good to need repainting , but tbh this is a blow in style / smart repair that I don’t often do , this was made just to show how it can be done I personally prefer to reclear a Panel for a nicer final lasting result
Thanks Tony.
Thanks for the upload Tony. I did a quick repair to bumper with just rattle cans had available, came out OK apart from blend line from new to old, what is best way of trying to fade that line now colour and clear has been down for 24 hours, not brand new car but still want the job to look as good as I can with the limited items have to utilise. Do I wet sand and buff? Thanks if can help
Hiya busy yes wet sand and polish the blend area mate
@@TonysRefinishingTV Thanks very much Tony for the reply. You have a new sub 🙏
Welcome to the channel buddy nice to have you with us
Great video, cheers mate!
No problem 👍
So, my technique is a dab of Hamerite from a brush comes up a treat , only kidding lovely job m8 and learned a thing or 2
Lol mate I’ve heard of some weird ways over the years 🤣
GREAT set of videos !!!
thanks man
Great video very well explained
thanks william
very good video i am 81 and it was hard to hear what you were saying,sounded garbled
i have small area to repair and the video will help me to do it right thanks.
Glad it helped
Great vid Tony, would love to see some form of rust repairing in future content :)
next time we get a car in with that kind of repair il definitely get some footage done and make a video weve been asked a few times for this , thanks for watching
Very good class..and nice job as allways..
thanks Dimitri and thanks for watching
Great tutorial. Can you do this type of repair with normal size paint gun or do you need one of these mini-guns?
For something this small unless you have a lot of experience I would only use a small gun tbh mate it wouldn’t be easy with a big gun at all
@@TonysRefinishingTV What is the mix ratio of cleat to fade thinner?
@@kevinrussell2984 you dont mix them mate
@@TonysRefinishingTV Ah so it's only fade out thinner and no clear mixed with it
@@kevinrussell2984 yeah budy just fade out
Great video bud
Pls explain blending thinners ?
blending thinner basically melts the old paint surface slightly heling the new paint to fuse to it on your blending edge if done right meaning an invisible join
Appreciate your videos and work brother thanks for the knowledge!
Your welcome thanks for watching
do you have a list of all the tools, sandpaper etc you used?
Sorry mate the only information is in the video mate