The loose screws on the outside can happen because of the heat. If gasoline burned, it's over 900 celsius fire. At that temperature, alloy looses any heat treatment properties it had. I'm honestly amazed that you got a good looking engine core in the end. I'd be very interested in seeing a shop clean this and build this into a normal engine and see how it fares. Considering it got unevenly heated and then rapidly cooled, there's a good chance it's hiding some interesting internal stresses in that casting. I wonder if with normal operation heat cycles they'll Dissipate or will they end up utimately warping the engine. This is like a science project. I have apsolutely no use for it but I would love to follow the journey of this block, maybe even buy it if I lived in Freedomistan and try to take it for a journey my self. Make a Pontiac Phoenix LS swap to make it appropriate.
thats what i was thinking, especially considering head bolts are torque to yield. when brought to such a high temperature it basically annealed them, relaxing all of that tension and removing the clamping force they had on the head. and also yes, im sure that block is sure to have some stresses and warping at least on the thinner features like the unsupported portions of the cylinder walls and the rods themselves.
Cooked gaskets can have the same effect. (Basically the gasket material burns away). With high temperatures the bolts can also get longer and lose temper (which is why reusing bolts under these conditions is a particularly bad idea).
I agree with the thought process, but there isn't that much gasoline at the engine. A little in the fuel lines and what not, but the fuel pump didn't keep running fueling the inferno. Once it get going it was probably mainly a big plastics fire. Still nasty, but I dont think plastic burns as hot as gasoline. I would love to see what the future holds for this block. If it really did get that hot it could develop some interesting inspection ports in the near future! LOL
We often use the metaphor “cooked” but in this case it literally IS cooked. I hate cleaning up cars after fires. Nothing like sifting thru crispy wiring to see what needs to be replaced.
I wonder if it is something to do with the heat of the fire has caused the head bolts to back off a bit. Would have set up some interesting expansion and contraction cycles, depending on how the fire was extinguished.
@@robrayne9144 yea, I could see them doing a compression test, seeing the low numbers and doing as you said. The head bolts not being torqued down enough could easily cause major compression issues.
When you found the loose bolts, I thought someone had done something to the engine, started to tear it down, found the problem. They then reassembled it and torched the truck rather than fix it. Glad you got what looks like a decent engine for a change.
Hey fun facts for those in the back that don’t know. Those head bolts heat up in a fire and stretch slightly. However if they cool too fast like let’s say a fire truck hits it with the hose. It will cool and stay stretched and seem loose.
Looks like the fire was hot enough to destroy anything plastic/rubber while not being hot enough to damage anything metal. That entire engine is probably rebuildable honestly. Sure all the gaskets and such need to be replaced, and it needs cleaned up.
Not sure how I ever ended up here but I'm an appliance repair guy. What you need is one of the catch pans that you put under a washer if they leak. I think your whole engine kart would fit inside it amd would catch all the nastyness that runs out.
Glad you came out good! What really surprises me is the head gasket hadn't blown with the bolts that loose. I suspect the heads had been off before and the "mekanec" didn't own a torque wrench. He might have messed up a fuel line, that could explain the entire truck over heating. Here's a question, how often have you seen a LS with a blown head gasket?
Comment on burned engines. In the late 60's my dad and I were at a junkyard looking for something. They were pulling the heads off a burned 63,64 Caddie. Heads were in high demand. Every 390 I ever pulled the heads on had at least one cracked head. Well, they got them off and the center 2 pistons in each bank were melted. Looked like a piece of plastic someone had thrown in a fire. Years ago the local state trooper had a motor home he could not sell. One weekend he moved it down to the roadside fence in his pasture (well away from his house) , blocked the gate with his patrol car, and went to a restaurant in the next county. Well, somehow that evening it caught fire, FD couldn't get to it because of the blocked gate. Hmmm. It had burned down to the ground, nothinng but the rails and the drivetrain left, melted the wheels of it. The carb and distributor were melted. My hot rod bud that recovered it bought the engine from his boss for $400. Told him he was crazy. Said the code speced it as a forged crank 4 bolt big truck engine and the crank was worth that. He replaced the externals, put it in his mud truck and drove it for a year before putting a hot rod build in it to go in his 86 K10 show truck. He always told me it was such a good engine because it had a heat treated block.
that little rust stain will never hurt any thing ! I bought a used motor for my '01 Ford F150 ,That had sat outside for 6 years without exhaust manifolds on it for $300) pulled the heads and there was a slight rust stain on 4 cylinders that the exhaust valves were open , Put new head gaskets in and head bolts as there toque to yield, 100 K its still running strong ,) for oil consumption 1/2 Qt in 3000 miles !!
12:30 Good example of why I like to run pushrod engines at about 4-5k RPM for 15 seconds or so after doing major work requiring new pushrods and/or rockers once they have had some time to break in. Stops the pushrods from just staying in one spot and scuffing real bad like that. They need the high RPM to ensure they actually rotate around like they should, otherwise it tears up the ball and seat.
Very nice Content ! I watch every Video. The Headbolts might have gotten hot over a long period of time ... They loose Tension when heated to high for to long. Also i think the driverside was not on fire that heavy and therefore the driverside bolts havent got that hot.
Thise head bolts arexsuspect. They may have stretched from the heat causing them to be not tight as you would expect. Doubt if the head expanded enough to stretch the bolts. One way or another don't reuse the head bolts.
My work truck for many years had that engine. Went for like 325k or so... Transfer case died, and they junked the truck... Engine ran great though. Very nice Truck.
Those stuck valve lifters and loose head bolts might indicate that there is minor heat deformations. Cast iron is quite sensitive for that. Also if you put it out with water, it may give block some cracks when hot cast metal cools suddendly and unevenly. I am very afraid always when i see burnt cast iron, but theoretically it might be good if someone puts that to tuned car and tries to get horsepower. Block has no tensions and it doesn't fail from liners. But what i'd do is good visual crack checking, maybe new sleeves and put everything together.
Perhaps I am wrong, but I would think that an engine that had been burned still had a core that was in most cases useable. I haven't watched the video yet, that is why I say that. Buildings in Flori-Duh, which are all concrete block, typically resist fire very well, but they are always knocked down because the heat deteriorates the strength of those blocks, and you could wind up with a collapse down the road. This is true of any concrete structure. Aluminum or iron engine blocks probably don't have this issue. Try this: Put on GOOD eye protection and a leather jacket, and then use a MAP gas torch to heat a paver or your concrete driveway; You need to have the eye protection on because the concrete chips will fly at you....
I always wanted to see what a lightly burned engine would be like inside. I see them in the junk yard now and then but always passed them by. Maybe ill look a little harder next time... I think that bit of plastic may have been the tab on that oil filler tube; you know the 45 degree elbow? They aren't really meant to come off after seated and if you reef on it to get it out, a little plastic tab breaks off inside. Probably been in there a long time I bet. I would also wager that that engine is a good running engine, I think all it would have needed was a set of head gaskets and bolts due to the heat- metal expanded too much over crushing the gasket and stretching the bolts i would guess. You should make up a engine test stand so you can try firing them up in the shop (make up an exhaust with a big muffler so you can really hear everything), then you could make a video of a running engine to help with the sale and your own conscious. Something that i want to do as well, then I could buy engines out of the junk yard and know what the issues are before installing them in something. Great video! Looking forward to the next one!
Every single LS harmonic ballancer iv had to pull was a tough bitch. The one on my car wouldnt budge with snap on, or matco air impacts. Had to use the milwaukee 2767 to zing it off. So far, nothing has been too strong on a car for my milwaukee to remove
I've seen that pushrod/rocker wear on several LS type 150K + motors. Not so much an oil pressure issue, more like lube age breakdown, likely infrequent maintaince . In any case toss the old and new replace with lotsa asm lube,
Did anybody catch the water jacket that seem to look as if it was clogged? After he pulled the heads, near the rear of the engine. Maybe its normal but it looks like a oil got into the coolant but who knows 15:30
Have same in 05 Yukon. Was metal shavings in first oil change. Idk runs fine. Just like pre ignition sound when you give it all the donkeys. And I don't often. 256k don't think been rebuilt. Idk I just say it's your home are you to good for you home? Slap it with a hockey stick
When the lifters don't want to pull out it's because they have mushroomed out. Pull the cam, drive the in. That way it doesn't damage the lifter bore. I'm local. One day we need to meet. Sent some guys your way.
The top of my wishlist is a teardown of a runaway diesel.
The loose screws on the outside can happen because of the heat. If gasoline burned, it's over 900 celsius fire. At that temperature, alloy looses any heat treatment properties it had. I'm honestly amazed that you got a good looking engine core in the end. I'd be very interested in seeing a shop clean this and build this into a normal engine and see how it fares. Considering it got unevenly heated and then rapidly cooled, there's a good chance it's hiding some interesting internal stresses in that casting. I wonder if with normal operation heat cycles they'll Dissipate or will they end up utimately warping the engine. This is like a science project. I have apsolutely no use for it but I would love to follow the journey of this block, maybe even buy it if I lived in Freedomistan and try to take it for a journey my self.
Make a Pontiac Phoenix LS swap to make it appropriate.
thats what i was thinking, especially considering head bolts are torque to yield. when brought to such a high temperature it basically annealed them, relaxing all of that tension and removing the clamping force they had on the head. and also yes, im sure that block is sure to have some stresses and warping at least on the thinner features like the unsupported portions of the cylinder walls and the rods themselves.
Nice ponka pfp
Cooked gaskets can have the same effect. (Basically the gasket material burns away).
With high temperatures the bolts can also get longer and lose temper (which is why reusing bolts under these conditions is a particularly bad idea).
I agree with the thought process, but there isn't that much gasoline at the engine. A little in the fuel lines and what not, but the fuel pump didn't keep running fueling the inferno. Once it get going it was probably mainly a big plastics fire. Still nasty, but I dont think plastic burns as hot as gasoline. I would love to see what the future holds for this block. If it really did get that hot it could develop some interesting inspection ports in the near future! LOL
That was my guess too.
Everything I see about the LQ4 makes me glad I've got an LQ4 in my '03 truck.
This is a clear example of the difference between "in a fire" and "on fire" ...
We often use the metaphor “cooked” but in this case it literally IS cooked. I hate cleaning up cars after fires. Nothing like sifting thru crispy wiring to see what needs to be replaced.
I've been robbed! I love the sound of the head bolts breaking loose. Totally deprived:-)
"There are several degrees of engines being burned..." I see what you did there 😀
CONGRATULATIONS ERIC! You hit 100,000 subscribers!
I wonder if it is something to do with the heat of the fire has caused the head bolts to back off a bit. Would have set up some interesting expansion and contraction cycles, depending on how the fire was extinguished.
I bet this engine was "rebuilt" and it came back to the shop and instead of dealing with it, it "accidentally" set on fire
@@robrayne9144 yea, I could see them doing a compression test, seeing the low numbers and doing as you said. The head bolts not being torqued down enough could easily cause major compression issues.
Aluminum expands faster than steel, hence heads stretched the bolts a bit.
When you found the loose bolts, I thought someone had done something to the engine, started to tear it down, found the problem. They then reassembled it and torched the truck rather than fix it.
Glad you got what looks like a decent engine for a change.
This channel is the only reason i get on TH-cam anymore
Weld vise grips to a slide hammer. Like a Morgan knocker. For those pesky oil dipsticks. 3/4 black iron couplings are cheap you can make all you want!
Always like this channel.
subtle humor and It’s good to see how seriously you take your work.
Hey fun facts for those in the back that don’t know. Those head bolts heat up in a fire and stretch slightly. However if they cool too fast like let’s say a fire truck hits it with the hose. It will cool and stay stretched and seem loose.
Congrats on the 100k!
You peeling off all the melted plastic was oddly satisfying lol
Congrats on 100k, been here since the first 5.0 coyote you did I think. Keep up the awesome work
Thanks! Hard to believe.
Looks like the fire was hot enough to destroy anything plastic/rubber while not being hot enough to damage anything metal. That entire engine is probably rebuildable honestly. Sure all the gaskets and such need to be replaced, and it needs cleaned up.
That's gotta be a lot of fun....Just taking engine's apart, an looking for carnage....Keep the videos coming!
Congrats on almost 100 000 su subscribers
congrats for your 100k subscribers, now the next milestone is 1m
"Someone's been in here already!" That's what she said!!
I don’t know why I find these videos so interesting but I do so please keep bringing the interesting videos.
Not sure how I ever ended up here but I'm an appliance repair guy. What you need is one of the catch pans that you put under a washer if they leak. I think your whole engine kart would fit inside it amd would catch all the nastyness that runs out.
How come the top end looked so clean and seemed like the oil was changed frequently but then the oil pan had sludge? Am I missing something here?
Glad you're making more videos
Almost doubled your subs since I joined you. Almost at 100k!
Always look forward to a new video being posted. Any chance you will ever tear down, a 6.2 Raptor engine? :-)
Still waiting for the 'one time and band clamp' comment.... :D Cheers for another great video.
Glad you came out good!
What really surprises me is the head gasket hadn't blown with the bolts that loose.
I suspect the heads had been off before and the "mekanec" didn't own a torque wrench.
He might have messed up a fuel line, that could explain the entire truck over heating.
Here's a question, how often have you seen a LS with a blown head gasket?
Excitedly waiting for the next 320i video!
Externally overheated...why would anyone warm up an engine ....oh, lol, someone decided to 're-heat treat' the block, lol, great job, Sir !!!
Comment on burned engines. In the late 60's my dad and I were at a junkyard looking for something. They were pulling the heads off a burned 63,64 Caddie. Heads were in high demand. Every 390 I ever pulled the heads on had at least one cracked head. Well, they got them off and the center 2 pistons in each bank were melted. Looked like a piece of plastic someone had thrown in a fire.
Years ago the local state trooper had a motor home he could not sell. One weekend he moved it down to the roadside fence in his pasture (well away from his house) , blocked the gate with his patrol car, and went to a restaurant in the next county.
Well, somehow that evening it caught fire, FD couldn't get to it because of the blocked gate. Hmmm. It had burned down to the ground, nothinng but the rails and the drivetrain left, melted the wheels of it. The carb and distributor were melted. My hot rod bud that recovered it bought the engine from his boss for $400. Told him he was crazy. Said the code speced it as a forged crank 4 bolt big truck engine and the crank was worth that. He replaced the externals, put it in his mud truck and drove it for a year before putting a hot rod build in it to go in his 86 K10 show truck. He always told me it was such a good engine because it had a heat treated block.
that little rust stain will never hurt any thing ! I bought a used motor for my '01 Ford F150 ,That had sat outside for 6 years without exhaust manifolds on it for $300) pulled the heads and there was a slight rust stain on 4 cylinders that the exhaust valves were open , Put new head gaskets in and head bolts as there toque to yield, 100 K its still running strong ,) for oil consumption 1/2 Qt in 3000 miles !!
12:30 Good example of why I like to run pushrod engines at about 4-5k RPM for 15 seconds or so after doing major work requiring new pushrods and/or rockers once they have had some time to break in. Stops the pushrods from just staying in one spot and scuffing real bad like that. They need the high RPM to ensure they actually rotate around like they should, otherwise it tears up the ball and seat.
That red ZJ looks good! The SN95 next to it is cool too!
I need an update on the COBRA 🐍
Those Sve Sc saleen wheels are so nice 🤤
I have lots of car updates coming soon!
I love a happy ending!
That blue HF 15 mm deep socket looks exactly like mine - same degree of beat-up-ed-ness
My brother's grandpa Woody told me that this is LQ Jones's favorite engine out of all Chevy trucks.
Very nice Content ! I watch every Video.
The Headbolts might have gotten hot over a long period of time ... They loose Tension when heated to high for to long. Also i think the driverside was not on fire that heavy and therefore the driverside bolts havent got that hot.
Really interesting. I expected any torched engine to be completely ruined, warped, and melty.
Thise head bolts arexsuspect. They may have stretched from the heat causing them to be not tight as you would expect. Doubt if the head expanded enough to stretch the bolts. One way or another don't reuse the head bolts.
Oddly satisfying to hear that burnt plastic snap off....
Use the waterpump bolts to take the cam out. The length gives you a lot more leverage.
UPO - I love the birth of new terminology
This review was…fire.
My work truck for many years had that engine. Went for like 325k or so... Transfer case died, and they junked the truck...
Engine ran great though. Very nice Truck.
“please don’t turn me into Miles Davis” a Billy Madison fan i see. nice 👍🏻
Ya know, a good salvage guy would have been able to save that harness. Great video, keep up the awesome work, thank you
Those stuck valve lifters and loose head bolts might indicate that there is minor heat deformations. Cast iron is quite sensitive for that. Also if you put it out with water, it may give block some cracks when hot cast metal cools suddendly and unevenly. I am very afraid always when i see burnt cast iron, but theoretically it might be good if someone puts that to tuned car and tries to get horsepower. Block has no tensions and it doesn't fail from liners. But what i'd do is good visual crack checking, maybe new sleeves and put everything together.
That will all just buff right out!
😀
Local guys LS caught fire in this s10. Having a metal intake basically saved his engine he said.
Perhaps I am wrong, but I would think that an engine that had been burned still had a core that was in most cases useable. I haven't watched the video yet, that is why I say that. Buildings in Flori-Duh, which are all concrete block, typically resist fire very well, but they are always knocked down because the heat deteriorates the strength of those blocks, and you could wind up with a collapse down the road. This is true of any concrete structure. Aluminum or iron engine blocks probably don't have this issue.
Try this: Put on GOOD eye protection and a leather jacket, and then use a MAP gas torch to heat a paver or your concrete driveway; You need to have the eye protection on because the concrete chips will fly at you....
I feel like you need a bucket that is labeled "trucket bucket" pun fully intended
I always wanted to see what a lightly burned engine would be like inside. I see them in the junk yard now and then but always passed them by. Maybe ill look a little harder next time... I think that bit of plastic may have been the tab on that oil filler tube; you know the 45 degree elbow? They aren't really meant to come off after seated and if you reef on it to get it out, a little plastic tab breaks off inside. Probably been in there a long time I bet. I would also wager that that engine is a good running engine, I think all it would have needed was a set of head gaskets and bolts due to the heat- metal expanded too much over crushing the gasket and stretching the bolts i would guess. You should make up a engine test stand so you can try firing them up in the shop (make up an exhaust with a big muffler so you can really hear everything), then you could make a video of a running engine to help with the sale and your own conscious. Something that i want to do as well, then I could buy engines out of the junk yard and know what the issues are before installing them in something. Great video! Looking forward to the next one!
Hello I Do cars,
Definitely hot on the top, but doubt oil temp in the pan got to normal service temp.
Not gonna lie, when I 6.0, I thought it would be THAT 6.0. The HEUI one. I got a little excited
Would love to see one that didn't get put out. Like a garage fire.
Every single LS harmonic ballancer iv had to pull was a tough bitch. The one on my car wouldnt budge with snap on, or matco air impacts. Had to use the milwaukee 2767 to zing it off. So far, nothing has been too strong on a car for my milwaukee to remove
I've seen that pushrod/rocker wear on several LS type 150K + motors. Not so much an oil pressure issue, more like lube age breakdown, likely infrequent maintaince . In any case toss the old and new replace with lotsa asm lube,
Possible the heat from the fire might have loosened the head bolts?
Wow that looked worse than it was. I am glad you got some good parts from this engine. 🇨🇦
"There are several different degrees of which an engine can be burned"
This one in particular experienced at least 1450 of them.
Great job man
lol. That's the first time I've seen him turn over an engine and all the pistons did what they're supposed to.!
14:04 Your fly is down. 🤣
LQ4 is the best they ever made.
Hey man, why not weld a small bit of sheet steel to the bottom of the engine stand so you can put your catch pans on it?
"That's officially a hot air intake" the dad jokes 🤣
I missed this one. When thumbnails change I always get screwed up 🤪🔥.
First Chev I've ever seen that had an air starter.
You mentioned you never saw that crank pully bolt get that stuck before? Probably related to high temps of that car fire
RE mysock351c : your excellent discription is why most vehicle fires are instant insurance write-offs. Besides nasty cleanup , very toxic also.
it appears someone was inside that motor more than once and half hazzardly put it back together !
Did anybody catch the water jacket that seem to look as if it was clogged? After he pulled the heads, near the rear of the engine. Maybe its normal but it looks like a oil got into the coolant but who knows 15:30
You missed the same head bolt on both sides. Lol
So close to 100K subs!
Loving the content! If ya come across it for a future video! I'd love to see a 3rd Gen 5.7L Hemi!
Have same in 05 Yukon. Was metal shavings in first oil change. Idk runs fine. Just like pre ignition sound when you give it all the donkeys. And I don't often. 256k don't think been rebuilt. Idk I just say it's your home are you to good for you home? Slap it with a hockey stick
Malice outside of the combustion palace.
harbor freight sockets getting a work out lol
Last time I was this early St Louis still had a football team
Ngl , I've put a couple burnt engines into non burnt cars as a gamble before and never had an issue (obviously replaced anything required ) ... 😳
You did an EJ, looking forward to a FA20 Subaru WRX engine lol. 2.0l DIT!
Not to put too fine a point on the dingle thing. But by extension I think of a 'wheel not.'
the ASMR was real on this one.
“These were a little tight in the bore”
That’s what she said
Coffee bean loll Wonder if somebody got their dipstick snipped!!?
When the lifters don't want to pull out it's because they have mushroomed out. Pull the cam, drive the in. That way it doesn't damage the lifter bore. I'm local. One day we need to meet. Sent some guys your way.
Lifters probably gummed into place from the heat
The head bolts are loose because the engine might have been overheated at one point.
Can you do a 4g63t teardown? If you have a good one I have a core to teardown for you with a bad rod knock
When your were prying the top end I was waiting for an alien to pop out and stick to your face
Try to find a Buick 3.8. I’d love to see how it could fail
I am betting that engine was freshened up at some point in time, thus the clean pistons.
Why didn't you wear eye protection when using the pry bar on the plastic ir when breaking down engines?
Still just waiting on that 1uz teardown
If you can try and do a teardown on a Toyota 1GR or 2GR V6
Crispy.