I wouldn't normally watch a channel where some dude tears down engines. But for some reason this channel is fascinating to watch and a joy to listen to. Your commentary while you're tearing apart some tragic orphan of an engine somehow is relaxing and fun and makes me forget my personal tragedies for a few minutes. Keep it up, Sir. Your channel is gold.
I'm a semi-proficient home mechanic but I couldn't do what Jack does. It's like wrenching by proxy, watching over his shoulder while we have a laugh and a chat. Love it.
Just some spiteful unhappy people that constantly spectate other people to try to get an edge on them. Met a lot of people like that and they end up on the internet making a big stink in the comments of any social media site. Note for the people watching; if you’re complaining constantly and think everyone you come across is a dummy, you’re as big as the problem you’re pointing at.
They're fine for fluid changes and such. Unless you've got a lift and a convenient way to dump old fluids, you can't do it yourself for less than they can.
@@jimitaco1303 The local parts stores take my old oil for free... and after having a drain plug stripped out by an iffy lube I've found it is NOT cheaper.
was always curious what kind of carnage was inside blown motors we pulled as a kid, but never wanted to take the time to find out. these videos are like answers to questions ive had for years. youre the coolest, thank you.
This is the same engine that is in my 1997 dually that I bought brand new in 1997. It still runs great and it is a beast. I found this video fascinating for some reason. I now know so much more about the engine of my beloved 454. Sad to see such damage on this iconic engine. Nice job. And I agree with other comments about adding music and fluff. You don't need that stuff to be interesting.
This channel is legit! I got all my friends hooked on watching. Doctors, business execs, financial job guys, doesn’t matter… there is something addicting about seeing an engine that someone else destroyed. This was a brilliant idea man.💡
I didn't laugh at the BBC until you pointed it out... Okay well played, that was a good comedic delivery. I Didn't see it coming until it hit me in the face with it.
I have literally never commented on a TH-cam video before, but I have learned so much about engines from watching you dissect absolute destruction while having a sense of humor about it. More fun than I ever would've expected
Dude, I love your channel. Real quality content, keeps my attention the whole video and always makes me laugh with your subtle not so subtle jokes. Keep em’ coming man and forget the haters.
His videos are a regular part of my Saturday night, it's a ritual. First I'll stop at the store and get my favorite brew, and then pop the top and see what Eric has in store for us this week
Diesel mechanic here. A tip for pulling a stubborn balancer: tighten up the puller then hit the thread end-on, it will shock the hub loose. Also, try a bit of heat on the hub around the snout then quench the inside of the snout with some WD or water. Try pulling again. The blue-tongue spanner often wins.
@@LU-D1GITAL I've never understood why people are so attracted to that sound. I like my idle note smooth and steady, not 'holy shit did it just backfire is it about to stall?!' unstable.
I absolutely love your videos. I know that they are for entertainment value. One of your videos actually helped when I changed the engine out in my 2002 Subaru. Thank you
You talked about, not ever seeing a block missing so much metal. I was driving a perterbilt tractor owned by the company I work for. Made it 6 miles from our headquarters. First time driving it. Pretrip full oil, full antifreeze. 6 miles in, it made a loud bang, and then rolled to the side of the hiway. From the bellhouding mounting surface forward 9 inches, from block top surface down, completely missing. Head still there, transmission still there. Rear 9 inches of the block and crankshaft and connecting rods all gone. I was impressed, Cummins ISX
Hi Eric, another great video. I was having flashbacks when I saw that cast iron water pump. I worked in the foundry that produced all those GM V8 water pumps until they went aluminum in mid 2000s. Then when I saw the main caps I remembered we cast those also. Shipped the caps to Canada where they machined them. Hope all is well.
I have a Suburban with this engine and absolutely love it. These engines do not like high RPMs according to a few techs I've spoken with that have experience on them, most failures that aren't neglect are usually from over-revving. Great video as always!
I eagerly await your latest teardown videos every week, I love your easy going approach to the tasks in front of you and no fancy tech talk and fill in music, just the sound of the power tools is my kind of music. I am sure lot of the critics would hate my approach to jobs and would cry if they saw me working on their cars. If the parts does not come off, find a bigger hammer or grab the angle grinder. Many times I bashed something apart only to discover a hidden fastener I overlooked!
I would be honored to have you work on my engine after I didn’t change the oil for 30,000 miles and let it spin a bearing and window the block because I’m a dumb. Honored; but I take care of my stuff and have mechanical sympathy. Love the videos brother!
@@dougrobinson8602 - Yea....but you can turn connecting rods and push rods into very interesting looking art projects. So.....that's something at least.
That’s awesome you rip engines apart like that. That really does help a lot if it’s something I’ve never done and gives me some pointers on what to do or what not to do. Appreciate it
I can tell by your work on your videos that you are a knowledgeable man. I think you do a great job. Don't let other people drag you down keep up the great work
With my very limited experience with the old cast iron engines I think I can say that they get pretty sludgey even with regular OCI. If you bring them back and rebuild them they run clean with modern oil, but the lower quality lubes that were used back then lead to quite a bit of build up even with 3k changes.
You would be surprised they really don't get sludged up with regular changes now the new cars are different when you put conventional oil in them and don't change it
That engine reminds me of a Volvo Amazon 121 I had years ago. I was driving it across the bridge leading south out of Stockholm (2 lanes, rush hour) when the engine started to knock I got annoyed and floored it. It went kaboom and half the camshaft fell out on the street in a puddle of oil. tailbacks for miles..
I think that this is just a fantasy story. Old Volvo 4 cylinder engines only blow up when turbo'd to over 500whp, and held at full throttle for at least 5 minutes. As far as I am aware, nobody has even killed a 5 cylinder one.
I once witnessed a similar failure on a vehicle in front of me last winter. The car was driving very slowly on a Texas highway, and I could tell by the exhaust something was wrong. Suddenly after about 500 feet my truck was covered in oily carnage as they pulled off the road
I hope the right executive with the BBC comes to you with a nice bent rod to make your day. I take a very careful approach to my vehicle maintenance after I started watching you videos Eric, you show the carnage of what can happen when not doing things right and I so appreciate your humor as well.
I really enjoy these. I’m working my way through these tear down vids. You must get some satisfaction out of the troubleshooting process, and working with your mind and hands. Same as me, I would be really good at this, and it would be fun. MOSTLY. Thanks for taking the time and posting the content. Please keep it coming.
Just a few words here some said they wouldn’t let you work on there car… But I feel I have more faith in your work and using the best parts that you have gone over. I trust your opinion more then 99.9 % of shops out there. Keep it up love watching this you go done all the way looking at everything ….
Not necessarily, when my much smaller engine lost oil pressure and the pistons stacked out of the block I didn't get any warnings or sound so I didn't know how bad it was before I opened the hood! Then It was obvious!
Based on the oil filter adapter, I'm guessing this came out of a 4x4 truck, and with the amount of dirt and crud on the engine, I have a feeling this thing was being wheeled/mudded and the engine finally cried uncle.
I vote it was a fleet vehicle at a mine or quarry or similar. It doesn't look like sporting dirt buildup, it looks like dirt buildup from years of neglect.
I think it was in a mud truck and some dufus took it in water too deep for it to handle and hydrolocked it. That explains the exploded cylinder better than any other theory I've heard so far.
Loved how you took the time to cracked the head bolts in the reversed order. How many can say they know that. Was taught this back in the 70s. Always reverse order head bolts. Keeps head from twisting or warping. Thank for listening.
I've been playing Car Mechanic Simulator for a while, it is hella satisfying to tear a motor down on that game. After playing that game it gave me a small insight as to what is all involved in an engine, this fills in the blanks completely for me. I dunno why, I'm not a mechanic, but I find this very entertaining to watch.
I am not a native English speaker, so apart from interesting engines teardowns You are doing a very good job on commenting and joking - that's why its a joy to watch this show)
Thank you for this video. I have to pull my heads on my 97 and I had no idea what to expect. After watching this I know where all the bolts are that I need to pull. You saved me a lot of time and trouble. Thank you!
So you wouldn't want this guy working on your car? That is silly. This gentleman offers a pleasant break from all the brutal politics that's going on in this country right now. Keep it up young man!
Ok now I'm officially stoked my favorite motor ! I had worked on a ton of them put them in trans am's, trucks can't tell you how many both my friend & i have used !
Would have loved to hear that one let go. Had a 350 blow up on my race car 3rd lap into a 20 lap main, was crazy and I got covered In oil. 4 rods went through at bout 7k RPMs. Had good pressure right up til boom.
Those BBC's are beastly. I had a GenVI 454 in one of my boats, except it had the large rectangle-port heads and forged internals. The thing was so over-built it was funny.
After watching a few of his videos I felt compelled to change the oil in my wife's car. I had just done my Honda the week before. Just looking at the oil starved carnage was a real motivator
Judging by the tiny truck I was cursed with owning, with a midwestern name on the tailgate, that is quite possibly the worst engine that Generic Motors ever made. At least the straight 6 variant that was in the SUV's, lacked the necessary balance shafts to keep it from shaking apart the 5 cylinder setup. But it still had the variable valve timing that could make that gas powered truck, sound just like a diesel.
EGR tube is made of stainless... Toothed blades always have a hard time with it, and your abrasive cut-off wheel made very little sparks with it which is a dead give-away that its stainless steel alloy.
People don't realize how slow you have to go not to instantly roast non-carbide tools with stainless. My shop recently had a DeWalt portable sawsall bought for us; it's useless because the trigger makes it almost impossible to run blades slow enough.
@@paulmoir4452 Killed quite a few drill bits that way myself! What actually happens? I used to think the metal got harder when heated, or does it just make the tool heat up and lose its temper?
@@connerlabs It heats up the tool and makes it loose its temper. Picture the microscopic cutting edge peeling a shaving of stainless off. The stainless is *not* happy about being sliced and deformed so it gets really hot. The cutting edge is pretty small and can get up to a very high temperature very quickly from conduction with the chip. It takes a lot to ruin the temper of high speed steel (what twist drills are made from) but exceeding 80 feet per minute will cook the finest grades. My apologies for the weird speed unit; this is the normal unit used for North American machinists. But if you work it out, you'll see the edge speed of a 1/2" (13mm) drill can't exceed 600 RPM or you'll exceed the 80FPM speed limit. Things like hole saws can't be made (inexpensively and durably) out of HSS so you have to go even slower with them. ~60FPM. A 4" hole saw=57RPM! Carbide doesn't count because it isn't hardened with a heat treatment. You can go way faster if you can stand being attacked by burning hot chips. 300FPM is nothing. Specifically for twist drills drilling stainless: make sure you've got a good split point drill bit. The "chisel" of a non-spit point or a split-point that isn't ground to nothing "shoves" the stainless around, which stainless doesn't do. That's where it gets hard from work hardening and stops cooperating. ABC of machining stainless: Always Be Cutting.
I really enjoy watching you tear engines apart. I'm amused that when you are loosening headbolts, you follow the correct tightening sequence, in reverse.
Many years ago, a buddy's dad would let us tag along to his business and set us loose on engines armed with pry bars and impact wrenches. Basically nothing is as fun for a 14 year old boy than pulling apart a giant hunk of metal. Granted, these were highway diesels, so my sense of scale for engine components was forever warped. Those days are long behind me, but your channel brings back a ton of fond memories. Thanks for the wonderful content! I do really hope that you'll consider wearing eye protection. You only get two eyeballs, and you don't have to be doing something stupid to lose one or both eyeballs forever.
So judging by the conditions of most of the vehicles and engines when they end up in your shop, I definitely wouldn’t want you working on any of my stuff. For that to happen, I would have had to have a horrible day lol. Thanks for the work you put into bringing us this content.
11:36 That's pretty normal for old engines anyway. Dino lubes, even when they're changed frequently, make a slimy sludgey mess in their wake. So does having an engine in use for 20, 30, 40+ years.
I have a 300,000 mile Vortec 350 that I've owned since new. I took a valve cover off recently to change a broken rocker arm, and it looked brand spanking new inside. It's never had synthetic in it....just normal old Valvoline. I change the oil when it gets dark on the dipstick, which is about 7,000 miles. So, no, dino lubes don't do this. Improper maintenance does. And the rocker arm was a cheap Chinese made roller one that the tip broke off. Oh, I stuffed a 383 kit in it at 26,000 miles, along with a healthy cam, little bit of head work, etc, and dropped it into an S10.
@@lwrs10 'Pretty normal' doesn't mean 'every single one'. Your engine is an outlier. And honestly I don't believe the claim anyway. You say it takes 7k miles for the oil to go dark...bullshit, oil goes dark colored within 500 miles in any engine you care to point out if it's burning gasoline. Diesels turn their oil black almost immmediately. The only ones that don't turn it black quickly are the ones running on propane, and I doubt your vortec is running on propane.
@@TestECull Hi. I am sure what you say might be generally true, but I have driven several cars that have a very "transparent" or not miscolored oil even after many miles, at least 6000... Its even somewhat of a problem as it can be hard to see the oil level on the dipstick sometimes. As to what might explain the difference in experience between us, I can only assume its because of the oil and maybe fuel used, I am in the european market and generally the oils used here are much higher quality, and probably the fuel as well, to some extent. Maybe there is something else that explain it as well, but at least here, it does happen.
@@TestECull Whatever you gotta say to make yourself feel superior. I'm talking about when it loses that golden brown tint and starts becoming opaque. I've backed up my schedule with many oil lab test. I'll keep on doing exactly what I am doing, because it works for me. Too bad I can't post a pic of how clean my motor is inside. Or my LS 100k teardown due to a failed lifter. It looked damn near new.
@@lwrs10 Yeah that's what I'm talking about as well. No way your engine is keeping it that clean for that long unless its burning propane. Your claim the oil stays golden for 3k miles is enough to peg my bullshit detectors and all you've done to back it up is impersonate a broken record.
I enjoy these as their is no stupid music, no intro, just good content on tearing down an engine. Subbed. Edit: you could fill in that cylinder wall with a Tig torch and some time. It's salvageable 😂
I am an addict watching you tear down these engines. I am in IT career wise but love working on my own vehicles. Hilarious someone commented they didn't want you working on their car 😆 do they know the difference between salvage and repair?
Great video Eric, Thank You for all the hard work you put into these video's !!! nice old school motor, (still butt ugly), but in it's day was probably a good work horse motor. wow , never seen a cylinder wall blown out like that !!!
@@djmjd yes you're right, I guess I always thought it was LS based because of the coil near plug design with the coils on the valve cover. Learn something new every day!
The 8.1 is basically the MKVI bbc, but stroked to 4-1/4 inch and with metric threads. The heads had a different, now symmetrical port design, an 18 bolt pattern. There was also different oil pan rails, longer rods, and some other minor small details.
A bloke I worked with years ago when i was still in engine reconditioning had a heavily modified 454 in his speed boat and he got a little too much fun one weekend and jumped the boat on another boats bow wave (accidentally) and it had a massive over speed and it's internals rapidly become external's and out of the entire motor the only salvageable part was one of the cylinder heads. Upon disassembly he found a wrist pin imbedded in the bottom of the inlet manifold I remember looking at the pushrods which most were somehow bent in to a spiral 😂
@@davelowets I would imagine the walls of the bore don’t feel hardly any force since the combustion happens when no wall is “visible” to where the explosion occurs. the walls only guide the pistons to and from their destination.
@@mortalens The bores can actually move around, and if the horse power gets too high with the thinner walls of a stock block, the ring seal suffers from the bore distorting. Simply bolting the heads on WILL distort the bore, and it won't be straight anymore. That is why an engine should be final honed with a torque plate bolted to the block with the actual brand/type of head gasket that is going to be ran, and all bolts torqued to the proper spec. Then when it distorts the bore, you'll end up honing it straight with the heads being simulated on the engine and the bore distortion it will create.
Your puller is fine. You need to use some form of spacer (like a piston out of a wheel cylinder) between the end of the puller bolt and the crank to keep it from threading into the crank. I have the same puller and it works great.
Ok, great challenge for the channel, remove broken rod, remove damaged material from inside engine, instal cylinder sleeve w/ adhesive to seal the giant bore hole, & see if u can get it running on 7 cylinders……..
Loved the video. Seeing you trying to pull the harmonic balancer brought back memories. The balancers on GM's big blocks were always a pain to get off. One trick is to hit the shaft of the puller a good whack or two. It seems to shock the crank and sometimes they just pop right off.
That's normal. It's old school cylinder deactivation by ejection system. The system activates at 8,000 RPM and up. It probably set a misfire code in the PCM also.
8 GRAND OUT OF A STOCK BIG BLOCK????? Not in your lifetime kid. I ran an SCCA L88 Corvette back in the 70s and trust me. There is no frigging way you are going to go more then a few seconds over 8000 before you stick a rod trough the side,,,,,,and for the record, That damage was in compression. - I never saw a even a fuel dragster break one like that, They always break when they are in tension. Maybe some kind of a hydro-lock?????
Hey Eric, big fan of your videos. I run an eBay auto salvage operation as well and engine tear downs are a big part of our business. These videos have greatly helped me figure out how to disassemble some of these complex engines and they're always enjoyable to watch. Thanks so much for putting this content out there. Would love to talk business sometime as we also do steering column disassembly & airbag sales. I noticed you don't have too many on your eBay store and I would be interested in putting together a bulk order if you have some laying around.
th-cam.com/video/HPeyW3ZqW1A/w-d-xo.html , it's not a complete tear down, but one of the better videos about the internals of the 4.2l, since he's made a bunch of videos about the 4.2 check out some other videos on his channel.
Man...One time I took my old bent rod and went down that big dirt road... a fun time had by all. I even think the BBC reported on it later on. Good times !!! Anyway, love the content, love you're comments, I guess I love you man !!! Is it wrong ?!?! Keep up the much appreciated everything you do dude !!!! Carry on...
I love seen carnage like that. I always wondered how an F1 engine would look like after they blow up at 16k rpms (the old v8 and v10) this and the k20 motor gives an approximate idea. 🤣🤣
@@mistersniffer6838 maybe. With titanium rods, hollow crankshafts and paper thin pistons rotating assembly weight isn't going to contribute a lot to the momentum though. I think the block would fracture rather than the rod getting stuck someplace for it to bend anyway. If it did get wedged somewhere 1"-2" of stroke would hardly put a kink in even a cheap cast iron rod from a lawnmower.
I actually have the previous generation of this engine in my 94 suburban. Reliable as all get out, but definitely not someone’s first choice for fuel economy.
I had a 94 F250 4X4 with the 460 in it. I drove that truck for 12 years and the gas was a lot cheaper then. With that being said 12MPG on the highway wasn't that bad.
@@TheTheomax 12 really isn’t terrible for something that massive. 460’s were no joke either. Going on year number four with my big block. And I’ve even used it to tow skid steers. The looks people give make it worth it.
Since the rod cap didn’t let go or weld to the crankshaft, I don’t think this was a low oil pressure issue. From what I can see on the video it seems to be more of a hydrolock issue that bent the rod first then hammered out the piston. That or some kind of wrist pin failure.
Based on how smoothly and how deeply that crank was machined down it seemed less likely to be a sudden catastrophic failure and more of a long term issue to me. Or possibly a combination of the two. And old knocking engine that the owner didn't care about got turned into a 'Muddin' truck and then sucked in some water.
@@TheProjectHelpDesk well I’m can’t disagree with the muding truck theory. There was a lot of mud packed up behind the crankshaft pulley. My thinking runs that the wrist pin keeping circlip failed and the wrist pin chewed through the cylinder wall when the cylinder wall failed the piston failed also then the rod got bent and battered. Hard to say without seeing the wrist pin end to see if it shows stuffing on the end.
whe I was an apprentice we had a Mitsubishi Galant twin cam come in with broken cam belts at 100kph. The guy pulled it all to bits and we had the ceremonial stand around for the Lifting Of the Head. Everyone said aaaawww! all at once. One entire liner was completely missing in action. Along with its piston and most of the rod were down in the sump. Much worse than this poor Chev! About 1/2 inch down from the head deck right to the bottom and all around was just gone. Could see the back of the liners each side of the culprit.... new engine... head all munched up too. vves sideways up the ports etc.
In all honesty when you said you saw your life flash before your eyes when the engine moved near the beginning of the video pulling the heat shield, I thought to myself it wouldn't be a bad idea for someone else to be there when you're doing a teardown. Then again maybe I've just seen too many episodes of 1000 ways to die.
He said he had steel toe boots on, been heavy and stiff they make it difficult to jump aside quick. Lightweight sport sneakers maybe would have been the better choice after all :)
I appreciate the manually loosening the rocker bolts before zipping them out. It reminds me of the time when I didn't do that and cracked a rocker in half with a pneumatic wrench on a 455 Rocket I was working on.
I wouldn't normally watch a channel where some dude tears down engines. But for some reason this channel is fascinating to watch and a joy to listen to. Your commentary while you're tearing apart some tragic orphan of an engine somehow is relaxing and fun and makes me forget my personal tragedies for a few minutes.
Keep it up, Sir. Your channel is gold.
Yeah there are car channels, but not all of them are appealing.
I have no interest in BMWs, but M549 Restorations in Germany is bloody awesome.
Blown BBC
Add me to the club!
Makes me forget my personal tragedies for a few minutes
Well that got dark.
I'm a semi-proficient home mechanic but I couldn't do what Jack does. It's like wrenching by proxy, watching over his shoulder while we have a laugh and a chat. Love it.
“I wouldn’t want you working on my car”
“well yeah if I’m working on it, you don’t own it anymore”
Made me chuckle.
Yea lol, if he's working on it, then you made a few errors along the way
Wow a four bolt main block. Could have been worth good money.
My brother working on truck rebuild on big block engine at home not go engine shop
"I wouldn't want you working on my car" was probably from someone who takes their car to Iffy Lube so they don't have to get their hands dirty.
LOLOLOLOL yes
Just some spiteful unhappy people that constantly spectate other people to try to get an edge on them. Met a lot of people like that and they end up on the internet making a big stink in the comments of any social media site. Note for the people watching; if you’re complaining constantly and think everyone you come across is a dummy, you’re as big as the problem you’re pointing at.
If you thought about it a arsenal of spare available parts are there on site so yes it's almost better to have it worked on there
They're fine for fluid changes and such. Unless you've got a lift and a convenient way to dump old fluids, you can't do it yourself for less than they can.
@@jimitaco1303 The local parts stores take my old oil for free... and after having a drain plug stripped out by an iffy lube I've found it is NOT cheaper.
was always curious what kind of carnage was inside blown motors we pulled as a kid, but never wanted to take the time to find out. these videos are like answers to questions ive had for years. youre the coolest, thank you.
This is the same engine that is in my 1997 dually that I bought brand new in 1997. It still runs great and it is a beast. I found this video fascinating for some reason. I now know so much more about the engine of my beloved 454. Sad to see such damage on this iconic engine. Nice job. And I agree with other comments about adding music and fluff. You don't need that stuff to be interesting.
factory roller cam :thumbsup:
The "creak" noise the head bolts make when you first loosen them, and the way you edit them together is enormously satisfying. :)
Sounds similar to what my shoulder does.
@@jeffryblackmon4846 every morning before coffee !!! LOL 👍
Love the sound of a head bolt breaking loose
@@bradwilliams5242and the feeling. How it pops
This channel is legit! I got all my friends hooked on watching.
Doctors, business execs, financial job guys, doesn’t matter… there is something addicting about seeing an engine that someone else destroyed. This was a brilliant idea man.💡
I didn't laugh at the BBC until you pointed it out... Okay well played, that was a good comedic delivery. I Didn't see it coming until it hit me in the face with it.
whats so dirty about british broadcasting co??? 😆😆😆😆
Nothing except the taxes behind it
@@rarelycold6618 Aye and child diddlers.....
LOL. Double entendre at its best!
Mushroom stamp ?
I have literally never commented on a TH-cam video before, but I have learned so much about engines from watching you dissect absolute destruction while having a sense of humor about it. More fun than I ever would've expected
I really like your videos. I am a retired engineer and love seeing how things are designed to work...sometimes not. Thanks!
Dude, I love your channel. Real quality content, keeps my attention the whole video and always makes me laugh with your subtle not so subtle jokes. Keep em’ coming man and forget the haters.
Not only that, the editing is brilliant.
His videos are a regular part of my Saturday night, it's a ritual. First I'll stop at the store and get my favorite brew, and then pop the top and see what Eric has in store for us this week
I came for the engine tear downs, stayed for the jokes
It’s alll scripted brooo!
Diesel mechanic here. A tip for pulling a stubborn balancer: tighten up the puller then hit the thread end-on, it will shock the hub loose. Also, try a bit of heat on the hub around the snout then quench the inside of the snout with some WD or water. Try pulling again. The blue-tongue spanner often wins.
I kept telling him this as I watched the video, but he just ignored me.
"Blue tongue spanner"...Is that anything like a "hot wrench"? (Oxy-Acetylene torch)
That thing must've made a spectacular sound when it blew up lol.
It was making one before then, too. These things sound amazing when they're on song!
@@TestECull haha, for sure
@@TestECull unless someone cams it out and it’s sounds like it wants to die
@@LU-D1GITAL I've never understood why people are so attracted to that sound. I like my idle note smooth and steady, not 'holy shit did it just backfire is it about to stall?!' unstable.
@@TestECull A real car guy does not want a smoothie Idle Unless he’s driving his father’s car. Just kidding
I absolutely love your videos. I know that they are for entertainment value. One of your videos actually helped when I changed the engine out in my 2002 Subaru. Thank you
You talked about, not ever seeing a block missing so much metal.
I was driving a perterbilt tractor owned by the company I work for. Made it 6 miles from our headquarters. First time driving it. Pretrip full oil, full antifreeze.
6 miles in, it made a loud bang, and then rolled to the side of the hiway.
From the bellhouding mounting surface forward 9 inches, from block top surface down, completely missing. Head still there, transmission still there. Rear 9 inches of the block and crankshaft and connecting rods all gone. I was impressed, Cummins ISX
"I wOuLdN't WaNt YoU WoRkInG oN mY cAr"
just to seep the dream alive and all... seriously though, I love these vids. Keep them coming!!!
Hi Eric, another great video. I was having flashbacks when I saw that cast iron water pump. I worked in the foundry that produced all those GM V8 water pumps until they went aluminum in mid 2000s. Then when I saw the main caps I remembered we cast those also. Shipped the caps to Canada where they machined them. Hope all is well.
One takeaway from these videos…Oil changes are VERY important!
Also a non leaking cooling system so you don't have to remember to keep it full.
change the oil or change the engine LOL
I know U have seen the engines where the oil has turned to jell ! How long does that take?
I have a Suburban with this engine and absolutely love it. These engines do not like high RPMs according to a few techs I've spoken with that have experience on them, most failures that aren't neglect are usually from over-revving. Great video as always!
I've learned more about engine construction from these vids than any other source. Thanks
I eagerly await your latest teardown videos every week, I love your easy going approach to the tasks in front of you and no fancy tech talk and fill in music, just the sound of the power tools is my kind of music. I am sure lot of the critics would hate my approach to jobs and would cry if they saw me working on their cars. If the parts does not come off, find a bigger hammer or grab the angle grinder. Many times I bashed something apart only to discover a hidden fastener I overlooked!
I would be honored to have you work on my engine after I didn’t change the oil for 30,000 miles and let it spin a bearing and window the block because I’m a dumb. Honored; but I take care of my stuff and have mechanical sympathy. Love the videos brother!
There is generally 2 things that takes out engines, 1. Neglecting maintainance. 2. Continue driving with 3 or more warning lights on.
@@ccmoos 3. Driving through water so deep you test the compressibility of H2O. (Hint; not very compressible)
@@dougrobinson8602 - Yea....but you can turn connecting rods and push rods into very interesting looking art projects.
So.....that's something at least.
Given the vehicle this engine probably came out of, this wasn’t carnage, it was trucknage! Ok, I’ll see myself out now.
Are you gonna be in town all week? Lol
Ayy lmao
Lamenage
@@1982MCI Don't forget to tip your waitress!
@@sadlerbw9 never do brother! They always get tipped well
That’s awesome you rip engines apart like that. That really does help a lot if it’s something I’ve never done and gives me some pointers on what to do or what not to do. Appreciate it
Adam , you show me you have class… but we had to wait until the end to find out, and there she was the Yellow Lotus Esprit, with the V8 . Beautiful 😻
That rod is amazing. It should go on the front counter.
🤫
That belongs in the trophy cabinet. Epic gold medal level of destruction going on with that rod.
It belongs in a museum! - Indiana Jones
Definitely "Counter Art".
"Offerings to the God of Speed" - Burt Munro
I really like your channel. Your automotive knowledge along with your witty chatter separates you from the other auto DIY guys. Keep up the good work.
I grew up in a salvage yard..I never once in my life..thought I'd I have so much enjoyment watching these...brings back memories
I can tell by your work on your videos that you are a knowledgeable man. I think you do a great job. Don't let other people drag you down keep up the great work
With my very limited experience with the old cast iron engines I think I can say that they get pretty sludgey even with regular OCI. If you bring them back and rebuild them they run clean with modern oil, but the lower quality lubes that were used back then lead to quite a bit of build up even with 3k changes.
You would be surprised they really don't get sludged up with regular changes now the new cars are different when you put conventional oil in them and don't change it
That engine reminds me of a Volvo Amazon 121 I had years ago. I was driving it across the bridge
leading south out of Stockholm (2 lanes, rush hour) when the engine started to knock I got annoyed
and floored it. It went kaboom and half the camshaft fell out on the street in a puddle of oil. tailbacks
for miles..
I’d imagine his one probably blew up mudding given how nasty it was. Age old “it’s stuck, let’s give it the beans” deal with predictable results.
Ohhh that sucks .
I think that this is just a fantasy story. Old Volvo 4 cylinder engines only blow up when turbo'd to over 500whp, and held at full throttle for at least 5 minutes. As far as I am aware, nobody has even killed a 5 cylinder one.
I once witnessed a similar failure on a vehicle in front of me last winter. The car was driving very slowly on a Texas highway, and I could tell by the exhaust something was wrong. Suddenly after about 500 feet my truck was covered in oily carnage as they pulled off the road
@@johncoops6897 My old B16 engine was unaware of those facts and blew up anyway.
Old school Big Block Chevy! Love your channel and your teardown. Always amazes me how they end blown up! Any 1.4T Fiats in the future?
I don't look forward to the summer when I have to examine my Fiat 1,9 TDI where the cam belt did get loose and did God knows how much damage...
I hope the right executive with the BBC comes to you with a nice bent rod to make your day.
I take a very careful approach to my vehicle maintenance after I started watching you videos Eric, you show the carnage of what can happen when not doing things right and I so appreciate your humor as well.
After he said that I came to the comments right away, and I have to say I'm rather disappointed 🤣
I have to confess I'm kinda impressed that the big end of the stylishly remodelled con rod was still attached to the crankshaft.
I really enjoy these. I’m working my way through these tear down vids. You must get some satisfaction out of the troubleshooting process, and working with your mind and hands. Same as me, I would be really good at this, and it would be fun. MOSTLY. Thanks for taking the time and posting the content. Please keep it coming.
Just a few words here some said they wouldn’t let you work on there car… But I feel I have more faith in your work and using the best parts that you have gone over. I trust your opinion more then 99.9 % of shops out there. Keep it up love watching this you go done all the way looking at everything ….
Great job Eric. BBC destroyed!! That must have made some kind of music when it let go. Can’t even imagine! Awesome video. Big Al.
Sweet name
Not necessarily, when my much smaller engine lost oil pressure and the pistons stacked out of the block I didn't get any warnings or sound so I didn't know how bad it was before I opened the hood! Then It was obvious!
Based on the oil filter adapter, I'm guessing this came out of a 4x4 truck, and with the amount of dirt and crud on the engine, I have a feeling this thing was being wheeled/mudded and the engine finally cried uncle.
I am thinking street class sled pulls at the county fair. "My truck is better than these chumps!" "Honey don't ... " "Hold my beer watch this!"
I vote it was a fleet vehicle at a mine or quarry or similar. It doesn't look like sporting dirt buildup, it looks like dirt buildup from years of neglect.
I think it was in a mud truck and some dufus took it in water too deep for it to handle and hydrolocked it. That explains the exploded cylinder better than any other theory I've heard so far.
Loved how you took the time to cracked the head bolts in the reversed order. How many can say they know that. Was taught this back in the 70s. Always reverse order head bolts. Keeps head from twisting or warping. Thank for listening.
I've been playing Car Mechanic Simulator for a while, it is hella satisfying to tear a motor down on that game. After playing that game it gave me a small insight as to what is all involved in an engine, this fills in the blanks completely for me. I dunno why, I'm not a mechanic, but I find this very entertaining to watch.
Among the many good things that happened in my life today, this is the best! :) You had me at brutally destroyed.
Probably the most valuable part is the lower intake. Unubtanium from GM and 800 or so on Car-Part.
I am not a native English speaker, so apart from interesting engines teardowns You are doing a very good job on commenting and joking - that's why its a joy to watch this show)
Thank you for this video. I have to pull my heads on my 97 and I had no idea what to expect. After watching this I know where all the bolts are that I need to pull. You saved me a lot of time and trouble. Thank you!
So you wouldn't want this guy working on your car? That is silly.
This gentleman offers a pleasant break from all the brutal politics that's going on in this country right now.
Keep it up young man!
Ok now I'm officially stoked my favorite motor ! I had worked on a ton of them put them in trans am's, trucks can't tell you how many both my friend & i have used !
Would have loved to hear that one let go. Had a 350 blow up on my race car 3rd lap into a 20 lap main, was crazy and I got covered In oil. 4 rods went through at bout 7k RPMs. Had good pressure right up til boom.
Those BBC's are beastly. I had a GenVI 454 in one of my boats, except it had the large rectangle-port heads and forged internals. The thing was so over-built it was funny.
ye it takes a special kind of stupid to kill one of these things. They're skookum as frig.
They are pretty much GM's peak Non-LS V8 design. The 8.1 big brother is a mutant whose way lies madness and awesome
Oval port 396 heads are the best heads to run, they flow like magic on drag racing motors.
After watching a few of his videos I felt compelled to change the oil in my wife's car. I had just done my Honda the week before. Just looking at the oil starved carnage was a real motivator
You definitely need to do a teardown on a GM Atlas engine, preferably a 5 cylinder or 6 cylinder
Really just depends on what engines come into his possession though. Not a lot of control there.
@@ghaleon128 I completely understand that, but he does mention he gets a lot of engines that he just doesn’t video.
I'd loveto see one of the Atlas 6-bangers torn down. They're like only parts of FailBlazers that aren't complete junk.
Judging by the tiny truck I was cursed with owning, with a midwestern name on the tailgate, that is quite possibly the worst engine that Generic Motors ever made. At least the straight 6 variant that was in the SUV's, lacked the necessary balance shafts to keep it from shaking apart the 5 cylinder setup. But it still had the variable valve timing that could make that gas powered truck, sound just like a diesel.
I think he's done a 5 cylinder Atlas
Nice to see a big block chevy. I have a lot of good memories rebuilding them. That block was one of the worst I've ever seen. What carnage!
EGR tube is made of stainless... Toothed blades always have a hard time with it, and your abrasive cut-off wheel made very little sparks with it which is a dead give-away that its stainless steel alloy.
Why do I feel like you're a fabrication welder 😂
People don't realize how slow you have to go not to instantly roast non-carbide tools with stainless. My shop recently had a DeWalt portable sawsall bought for us; it's useless because the trigger makes it almost impossible to run blades slow enough.
@@paulmoir4452 Killed quite a few drill bits that way myself! What actually happens? I used to think the metal got harder when heated, or does it just make the tool heat up and lose its temper?
@@connerlabs It heats up the tool and makes it loose its temper. Picture the microscopic cutting edge peeling a shaving of stainless off. The stainless is *not* happy about being sliced and deformed so it gets really hot. The cutting edge is pretty small and can get up to a very high temperature very quickly from conduction with the chip.
It takes a lot to ruin the temper of high speed steel (what twist drills are made from) but exceeding 80 feet per minute will cook the finest grades. My apologies for the weird speed unit; this is the normal unit used for North American machinists. But if you work it out, you'll see the edge speed of a 1/2" (13mm) drill can't exceed 600 RPM or you'll exceed the 80FPM speed limit.
Things like hole saws can't be made (inexpensively and durably) out of HSS so you have to go even slower with them. ~60FPM. A 4" hole saw=57RPM!
Carbide doesn't count because it isn't hardened with a heat treatment. You can go way faster if you can stand being attacked by burning hot chips. 300FPM is nothing.
Specifically for twist drills drilling stainless: make sure you've got a good split point drill bit. The "chisel" of a non-spit point or a split-point that isn't ground to nothing "shoves" the stainless around, which stainless doesn't do. That's where it gets hard from work hardening and stops cooperating. ABC of machining stainless: Always Be Cutting.
This is my favorite channel. Because it’s the best of both worlds, engine and inter
I really enjoy watching you tear engines apart. I'm amused that when you are loosening headbolts, you follow the correct tightening sequence, in reverse.
I would have given you a 100dollar bill for that egr pipe.
They're unobtatium.
Like seriously. If you ever get another one, DO NOT CUT IT!!!!
that EGR tube is tough to find, as well as the fuel rail. Gotta try to save 'em
Got one in garage !
Eric, when you make it to a million subs, I’ll make you an engine stand to end all engine stands. Provided one doesn’t do you in before. 😁
I’ve been shopping for a big, gear driven one but hate to spend money on something that is marginally better than what I have.
Very specific but I would like to see a blown up BMW N20, one were the timing chain failed and caused catastrophic engine failure.
Many years ago, a buddy's dad would let us tag along to his business and set us loose on engines armed with pry bars and impact wrenches. Basically nothing is as fun for a 14 year old boy than pulling apart a giant hunk of metal. Granted, these were highway diesels, so my sense of scale for engine components was forever warped. Those days are long behind me, but your channel brings back a ton of fond memories. Thanks for the wonderful content! I do really hope that you'll consider wearing eye protection. You only get two eyeballs, and you don't have to be doing something stupid to lose one or both eyeballs forever.
So judging by the conditions of most of the vehicles and engines when they end up in your shop, I definitely wouldn’t want you working on any of my stuff. For that to happen, I would have had to have a horrible day lol. Thanks for the work you put into bringing us this content.
Hmmm....I wonder how many people unfamiliar with these said "what's wrong with the rockers and why are they all crooked?"
Owners/mechanics working on these engines would have gladly gave $200 for that EGR tube. They’re discontinued by GM and almost impossible to find.
How many used ones do you want for $200 a piece??
It can't be broken fur 200 jack. Most time they break removing.... and when you put back on they break
11:36 That's pretty normal for old engines anyway. Dino lubes, even when they're changed frequently, make a slimy sludgey mess in their wake. So does having an engine in use for 20, 30, 40+ years.
I have a 300,000 mile Vortec 350 that I've owned since new. I took a valve cover off recently to change a broken rocker arm, and it looked brand spanking new inside. It's never had synthetic in it....just normal old Valvoline. I change the oil when it gets dark on the dipstick, which is about 7,000 miles. So, no, dino lubes don't do this. Improper maintenance does.
And the rocker arm was a cheap Chinese made roller one that the tip broke off. Oh, I stuffed a 383 kit in it at 26,000 miles, along with a healthy cam, little bit of head work, etc, and dropped it into an S10.
@@lwrs10 'Pretty normal' doesn't mean 'every single one'. Your engine is an outlier. And honestly I don't believe the claim anyway. You say it takes 7k miles for the oil to go dark...bullshit, oil goes dark colored within 500 miles in any engine you care to point out if it's burning gasoline. Diesels turn their oil black almost immmediately. The only ones that don't turn it black quickly are the ones running on propane, and I doubt your vortec is running on propane.
@@TestECull Hi. I am sure what you say might be generally true, but I have driven several cars that have a very "transparent" or not miscolored oil even after many miles, at least 6000... Its even somewhat of a problem as it can be hard to see the oil level on the dipstick sometimes. As to what might explain the difference in experience between us, I can only assume its because of the oil and maybe fuel used, I am in the european market and generally the oils used here are much higher quality, and probably the fuel as well, to some extent. Maybe there is something else that explain it as well, but at least here, it does happen.
@@TestECull Whatever you gotta say to make yourself feel superior.
I'm talking about when it loses that golden brown tint and starts becoming opaque. I've backed up my schedule with many oil lab test.
I'll keep on doing exactly what I am doing, because it works for me. Too bad I can't post a pic of how clean my motor is inside. Or my LS 100k teardown due to a failed lifter. It looked damn near new.
@@lwrs10 Yeah that's what I'm talking about as well. No way your engine is keeping it that clean for that long unless its burning propane. Your claim the oil stays golden for 3k miles is enough to peg my bullshit detectors and all you've done to back it up is impersonate a broken record.
I enjoy these as their is no stupid music, no intro, just good content on tearing down an engine. Subbed.
Edit: you could fill in that cylinder wall with a Tig torch and some time. It's salvageable 😂
I am an addict watching you tear down these engines. I am in IT career wise but love working on my own vehicles. Hilarious someone commented they didn't want you working on their car 😆 do they know the difference between salvage and repair?
Great video Eric, Thank You for all the hard work you put into these video's !!! nice old school motor, (still butt ugly), but in it's day was probably a good work horse motor. wow , never seen a cylinder wall blown out like that !!!
Would be cool to see the LS based equivalent of this engine, the massive 8.1 that came in the GMT800 2500 and 3500 series trucks.
The 8.1 was based on this engine, not the LS family.
@@djmjd yes you're right, I guess I always thought it was LS based because of the coil near plug design with the coils on the valve cover. Learn something new every day!
That would basically be the 6.0
@@carterthiessen2664 8.1's had an intake port that resembled the cathedral LS ports. You're not wrong!
The 8.1 is basically the MKVI bbc, but stroked to 4-1/4 inch and with metric threads. The heads had a different, now symmetrical port design, an 18 bolt pattern. There was also different oil pan rails, longer rods, and some other minor small details.
A bloke I worked with years ago when i was still in engine reconditioning had a heavily modified 454 in his speed boat and he got a little too much fun one weekend and jumped the boat on another boats bow wave (accidentally) and it had a massive over speed and it's internals rapidly become external's and out of the entire motor the only salvageable part was one of the cylinder heads. Upon disassembly he found a wrist pin imbedded in the bottom of the inlet manifold I remember looking at the pushrods which most were somehow bent in to a spiral 😂
Thumbs up for the Three Stooges reference! 👍👍
to be fair im not an adult and still watch your videos cus i like them
I got a good belly giggle outta that, I will never be too old to laugh at shit, that’s why I’ll probably go to hell 🤣🤘🤷🏼♂️
one of my best motors I ever had was a 454, got me to wherever I needed to go and Every gas station along the way 😆
NAPA has nice engine stands with a crank and gear mechanism for spinning the motor.
How's your Lotus (lots of trouble usually serious)?
Your build, voice, and personality reminds me very much of my old high school football coach
“Malice in the combustion palace” “regapped by the piston” LOL!
Surprised to see how thin the piston wall actually is.
And that's before they get bored out! Ideally though they don't feel any forces, except in this case
@@mortalens Yes, they DO feel force...
@@davelowets I would imagine the walls of the bore don’t feel hardly any force since the combustion happens when no wall is “visible” to where the explosion occurs. the walls only guide the pistons to and from their destination.
@@mortalens The bores can actually move around, and if the horse power gets too high with the thinner walls of a stock block, the ring seal suffers from the bore distorting. Simply bolting the heads on WILL distort the bore, and it won't be straight anymore. That is why an engine should be final honed with a torque plate bolted to the block with the actual brand/type of head gasket that is going to be ran, and all bolts torqued to the proper spec. Then when it distorts the bore, you'll end up honing it straight with the heads being simulated on the engine and the bore distortion it will create.
Your puller is fine. You need to use some form of spacer (like a piston out of a wheel cylinder) between the end of the puller bolt and the crank to keep it from threading into the crank. I have the same puller and it works great.
Plus a little oil on the puller threads. If you use the tools properly they work fine
Thats why you put the pointed end piece on the puller shaft, then it wont thread into the crank. It will then seat in the hole.
Last week you promised this teardown would be a totally wrecked engine. Lol. You delivered. What a disaster. Fucking awesome.
Instant sub. Your comment on the person who said they wouldnt want you near their car proper made me laugh. Loved the video!
I find your videos very captivating and they make me glad I am no longer an auto mechanic!
Nice! That's exactly the engine I have in my truck.
Yeah, I'm getting 11mpg.
Yeah, it's worth it.
11 is actually not bad
probably gets about the same with a trailer too. Manual or automatic?
The sound a healthy big block makes when you pour the coals to 'er......
You may only be about to do 80, but you can tow a house at 80.
Nothing like a Saturday Night Teardown
Ok, great challenge for the channel, remove broken rod, remove damaged material from inside engine, instal cylinder sleeve w/ adhesive to seal the giant bore hole, & see if u can get it running on 7 cylinders……..
here from buenos aires, great videos thanks gerald 1951 (ford 1935 mazda 626 volvo c202)
Loved the video. Seeing you trying to pull the harmonic balancer brought back memories. The balancers on GM's big blocks were always a pain to get off. One trick is to hit the shaft of the puller a good whack or two. It seems to shock the crank and sometimes they just pop right off.
That's normal. It's old school cylinder deactivation by ejection system. The system activates at 8,000 RPM and up. It probably set a misfire code in the PCM also.
8 GRAND OUT OF A STOCK BIG BLOCK????? Not in your lifetime kid. I ran an SCCA L88 Corvette back in the 70s and trust me. There is no frigging way you are going to go more then a few seconds over 8000 before you stick a rod trough the side,,,,,,and for the record, That damage was in compression. - I never saw a even a fuel dragster break one like that, They always break when they are in tension. Maybe some kind of a hydro-lock?????
Hey Eric, big fan of your videos. I run an eBay auto salvage operation as well and engine tear downs are a big part of our business. These videos have greatly helped me figure out how to disassemble some of these complex engines and they're always enjoyable to watch. Thanks so much for putting this content out there. Would love to talk business sometime as we also do steering column disassembly & airbag sales. I noticed you don't have too many on your eBay store and I would be interested in putting together a bulk order if you have some laying around.
You need to do a tear down on a gm 4.2 i6 atlas engine.
I second this
3rd
th-cam.com/video/HPeyW3ZqW1A/w-d-xo.html , it's not a complete tear down, but one of the better videos about the internals of the 4.2l, since he's made a bunch of videos about the 4.2 check out some other videos on his channel.
2nd gen 4.3
or the GM inline 5!
Man...One time I took my old bent rod and went down that big dirt road... a fun time had by all. I even think the BBC reported on it later on. Good times !!! Anyway, love the content, love you're comments, I guess I love you man !!! Is it wrong ?!?! Keep up the much appreciated everything you do dude !!!! Carry on...
I love carnage. Thats why I watch this channel. You got carnage.
I love seen carnage like that. I always wondered how an F1 engine would look like after they blow up at 16k rpms (the old v8 and v10) this and the k20 motor gives an approximate idea. 🤣🤣
That's right. F1 engine next?
@@bourbonrenewal216 doubt anyone will ever get their hands on one of those. But I seen he has a V10 M5 wreck, and a couple Porsches
Any engine revving to 16k would need such a short stroke it wouldn't have the torque to bend a rod
@@9HighFlyer9 - inertia would do it in!
@@mistersniffer6838 maybe. With titanium rods, hollow crankshafts and paper thin pistons rotating assembly weight isn't going to contribute a lot to the momentum though. I think the block would fracture rather than the rod getting stuck someplace for it to bend anyway. If it did get wedged somewhere 1"-2" of stroke would hardly put a kink in even a cheap cast iron rod from a lawnmower.
It'd be interesting to see you pull apart an 8.1 after one of these.
Same thing....
I actually have the previous generation of this engine in my 94 suburban. Reliable as all get out, but definitely not someone’s first choice for fuel economy.
I had a 94 F250 4X4 with the 460 in it. I drove that truck for 12 years and the gas was a lot cheaper then. With that being said 12MPG on the highway wasn't that bad.
@@TheTheomax 12 really isn’t terrible for something that massive. 460’s were no joke either. Going on year number four with my big block. And I’ve even used it to tow skid steers. The looks people give make it worth it.
"Malice in the combustion palace" that's a new one for me🤣🤣🤣
BBC, I thought you were talking about Barry not the British Broadcasting Company. I'm glad you cleared that up.
Since the rod cap didn’t let go or weld to the crankshaft, I don’t think this was a low oil pressure issue. From what I can see on the video it seems to be more of a hydrolock issue that bent the rod first then hammered out the piston. That or some kind of wrist pin failure.
Based on how smoothly and how deeply that crank was machined down it seemed less likely to be a sudden catastrophic failure and more of a long term issue to me. Or possibly a combination of the two. And old knocking engine that the owner didn't care about got turned into a 'Muddin' truck and then sucked in some water.
@@TheProjectHelpDesk well I’m can’t disagree with the muding truck theory. There was a lot of mud packed up behind the crankshaft pulley. My thinking runs that the wrist pin keeping circlip failed and the wrist pin chewed through the cylinder wall when the cylinder wall failed the piston failed also then the rod got bent and battered. Hard to say without seeing the wrist pin end to see if it shows stuffing on the end.
As soon as I saw that liner I thought hydrolocking at some point in the destruction sequence.
Instead of going for the adjustable piston mod they went straight for a cylinder delete
whe I was an apprentice we had a Mitsubishi Galant twin cam come in with broken cam belts at 100kph. The guy pulled it all to bits and we had the ceremonial stand around for the Lifting Of the Head. Everyone said aaaawww! all at once. One entire liner was completely missing in action. Along with its piston and most of the rod were down in the sump. Much worse than this poor Chev! About 1/2 inch down from the head deck right to the bottom and all around was just gone. Could see the back of the liners each side of the culprit.... new engine... head all munched up too. vves sideways up the ports etc.
In all honesty when you said you saw your life flash before your eyes when the engine moved near the beginning of the video pulling the heat shield, I thought to myself it wouldn't be a bad idea for someone else to be there when you're doing a teardown. Then again maybe I've just seen too many episodes of 1000 ways to die.
Hadn't even thought of that old movie in years.
He said he had steel toe boots on, been heavy and stiff they make it difficult to jump aside quick. Lightweight sport sneakers maybe would have been the better choice after all :)
@@dionrau5580 its a TV show
I appreciate the manually loosening the rocker bolts before zipping them out. It reminds me of the time when I didn't do that and cracked a rocker in half with a pneumatic wrench on a 455 Rocket I was working on.
I do enjoy watching the tear downs, but would also enjoy a video on refurbishing parts like manifolds, head, or block. Would also be interesting.