Ender 3 v2 How to change your old nozzle!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 20 ก.พ. 2021
- I have had this machine for a while now, and its time for some maintanence on the ender 3 v2! were going to change to a new nozzle before i do a deep wipe down and cleaning, so i will show the step by step of the nozzle swap.
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902 n Hughes
Blunt Sd 57522 - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
Doesn't have the tools needed, takes a screw off in the back not showing on cam, blocks everything with hat. Great
And has chip bag rustling audio
Why is every single Ender 3 video like this?
LOL! I was able to get the job done following this but yeah, this made me laugh! LOL! :D
Yep. It motivates a person to find at least one other resource.
its almost funny
I appreciate that you put this video out but please consider what some of the other commentors have stated as problems and maybe a new video with some improvements could do really well. Thanks for the guide.
thanks for the short instructions! it's very easy when you know what to do :)
Great information but as a 3D printer hobbyist you can actually remove that rubber cover completely to access the nozzle much easier. Also for the people asking what screws is he talking about. It's two small L in wrench screws top left and right side to the extruder not the roller.
Thank you.
Great thanks . Maybe do a video on cura and go through a few settings for fastest print that reasonable like a 50mm by 50mm 3 mm high box
Can u please tell me the size of ur wrench tool for nozzle so I can buy the exact size that fit to nozzle
Hello thanks for the video. Also new to 3d printing. Should I consider changing the nozzle if it has scratched the bed a few times? I’m concerned some bed material got into the nozzle end. Also, has anyone had issues with the z limit switch not working, after bed leveling forever, and thinking it’s all ok, after inconsistent bed distances in pressing auto home, on initial flow lines on left side of the bed, scratched a decent line on the bed. Seriously considering buying a CR touch for z axis limits please help
Damn you weren't kidding when you said the little wrench gets hot fast, I just burned a groove into my thumb lol first time changing nozzle...
It dosnt take much. If you heat it, then push a little filament through, then yank it out it should come out clean. Then you can usually let the machine cool and remove the nozzle, but it dosnt always get all the filament out and if it vools in the tip it will fuse the nozzle to the heat break making it hard to remove. Silicon oven mitts work wonders!
Great!
Questions: Is the Solutech filament a favorite of yours?
It works really well with consistent temps. This blue is the closest match to the stock parts on the ender 3v2 which is why I chose it.
Thumbs up for the comedic result. I gonna make the same video wearing a cowboy hat.
Few questions, and anyone can feel free to answer me.... But, Where did you buy your nozzles, im looking to replace my ender3 v2's and i've a feeling i need to as when i fist got it i dug into the glass slightly and my filament comes out much much more thin then i think it should, just don't trust amazon really, or most of the results, also when leveling it with paper how much resistance should there be between the nozzle and the bed itself when heated?
You should feel a little drag but you should be able to push and pull the paper.
Great video. Thank you :)
I wish that it was that simple. So, I try to get the cover off and eventually I do. And what do I find? A loose laying wood screw and a fan that isn't attached to anything. It appears that they got cheap with this one. There appears to be holes at the deepest part of the fan shroud that they might have intended to screw the fan into. But the electric wires are too short to get anywhere near that to attach it.
Then the shroud. You make it look so easy but all mine wanted to do is tear. After getting a bit farther I notice that it is glued to the hotend. The gluing of the wires is really poorly done and they slopped it over the silicon as well as the wires. ARGGGhh Quality control anyone?
What tool is that he’s using for the nozzle ?
weird question why didnt you remove the printer filment before hand so you didnt have to have it hot while removing?
Once it's in there it won't come out of the hot end unless you heat it up. You can cut it, but the stuff stuck in the throat will ooze out when you heat it either way, so best to heat it, and pull it out to avoid the mess.
What is that tube above your wheel that feeds?
That is a 1/4 lb gluestick
You need to do closes ups it so hard to tell what your doing
Just got a better camera. We will see how it goes!
@@Technivorous Cheers boooy but thank you you taught me alot
Try impossible to tell, unless you have x-ray vision
What is that glue stick attached to and rotating with your extruder.? I can't seem to find what it is/does.
It sits and spins... Lol. Kind of a joke. Its huge so I find it funny.
Shouldn't you hold the aluminum block while twisting the nozzle? I've heard stories about people who didn't and broke it.
Depends. If your throat is seated right you should be fine. However, there is a tread on both sides of that block. One on the throat, and one on the nozzle. Holding the block does prevent torsion on the throat while unscrewing the nozzle. The main thing here is temp. If it's thoroughly heated you won't have a problem. If it's cold you can accidentally apply pressure at an angle while turn which will cause the throat to shear. In short, yes. If possible, hold the aluminum block while loosening the nozzle. However if you heat the hot end first it's not strictly needed, just slightly safer
What L shape is that tool called
your cap closed the view
Why did you take off the fan just remove the rubber shroud.
I was trying to make it so people could see what I was doing. Didnt work too well. Lol
its better to take it off
I tried to change my nozzle and ever since I did it my ender 3 v2 keeps popping up with the nozzle temperature too low message
check to ensrue the thermistor bead is still inside the heat block!
@@Technivorous okay thank you!
nice hat
Your x axis isn't square
Google recommended this for how to replace the extruder.... Your hat blocks almost the entire hands on portion.
i cant see anything you're doing
Hi, when you photograph your work, don't forget that your hat is NOT TRANSPARENT...!!!🤨
🧢
I've had my Ender 3v2 for 30 weeks upgraded to a metal dual extruder, Capricorn PTFE, better bed springs as that's what most of the info suggested I do immediately so far so good. The bed leveling was a bit frustrating and is really the reason why 30 weeks have gone by since I've assembled my machine and still haven't gotten a print. yesterday i decide to power through, print a calibration cube just to make the machine go... It comes out horrible looked more like a borg cube, layer skipping is what I think was going on so I did a little trouble shooting on the extruder then it wouldn't extrude 7 hours I'm attempting to print nothing coming out so I'm looking at more videos that suggest it could be a clog in the nozzle and while the nozzle is new no actual prints I figure, changing it wont hurt, I bought some extra with my machine turn the machine off because who want to burn their hands give it a turn and maybe another cant get it off, looks at video which suggest the nozzle be hot to get all that melted plastic to move which in hindsight makes so much sense, turn on the nozzle burns fingers... by the way you guys just pull that shroud off so easily, I've never been able to get that thing off or even far enough to the side to even change the nozzle and now I've stripped the nozzle because the wrench that came with the machine is cheap and I'm frustrated and speeding through and jumping from one solution to the next like a little humming bird and all i want to do is print a calibration cube, I tried the link under the video to find a better tool to remove the nozzle but it did not work. I'm close to taking the whole thing apart and starting over, what would you suggest I do before i do that?
what temp is your nozzle at? try turning up the temp to 220 on extruder and 70 on heat bed for the first layer, then attempt to adjust the nozzles as the print is going, the filament should be SQUISHED into the heat bed so that it is 0.4mm thick
@@rickyhackett6703 It was my e-steps! :) I'm chugging along now, I've had several successful small prints looking to do something bigger this weekend. -Thanks for your reply!
@@TacumaGamba I'm new at printing as well and have a question for you guys. Do you have to adjust your bed after every print? I have that problem and it's frustrating having to do that every time. Thanks.
@@rickyhackett6703 its not good to make it at such a high temperature
Take you dam ball Cap off.
Learn how to make a tutorial, maybe if you show how to do something to not block it OR ACTUALLY SHOW IT. God why did TH-cam remove dislike counter
Awwwww, thanks! Love you too!
Take off your hat or move the camera, eh.