TH-cam is swamped with tons of 3d print how to videos and other miscellania, this video is well made, informative, and provides accurate information, I enjoyed learning from it and highly recommend this users videos for instructional purposes!
Thanks for posting this video. Very informative and helpful. I have the Ender 3 Neo and Ender 3 Max Neo. So far, I haven't had any issues. I really like them. I've been wondering about the newer hot end setup. Your detailed video answered all of my questions. When it comes time for maintenance, I have Capricorn tubing, nozzles and fitting connectors ready to go (6 printers, so...) :).
I am having trouble with my Neo max with the same problem and I have to say that this is the best video I have ever watched on TH-cam that helps, so thank you for this Tom.
“ I’d like an omelet, plain, and a chicken salad sandwich on wheat toast, no mayonnaise, no butter, no lettuce and a cup of coffee.” 😂😂😂 Excellent video by the way.
Thanks a lot for this video. I had a perfectly well working Ender 3 v2 Neo, 40 prints no problem until I had a filament break before it enters the PTFE tubing at the push mechanism. Didn't notice it immediately and the printer continued printing without any more filament pushing through. So extrusion completely blocked after many cold pulls and tries to clean nozzle etc. I then tried yours and similar methods but I have the problem that I cannot get the PTFE tubing more than 1.5 to 2cms in, so I cannot have it go all the way through, only thing I managed to do is to get a huge clogg out of the extruder with a thin screwdriver, completely cleaned the nozzle and reassembled and the symptoms continued again. Until I watched your video I didn't know the PTFE had to go all the way through, but still tried again and even with 250°C I can't get the PTFE tube more than 2 cm in. What's going on? What can I try? Is it possible than some part of the PTFE tubing got stuck or melted inside the extruder heat block? What are the 2 grab screws in front on the heater block for, do you maybe need to unscrew those to get the PTFE tube all the way through? What else could I be doing wrong or be missing? Thanks a lot for any suggestion.
Exact same problem did you ever find a fix I just keep clogging I have to the nozzle all the way off to get it unclogged and I think my tube can’t go deep enough either
@ragcrafter yeah I solved the problem, the root cause was a bad manufactured part (metal tube that's inside the cooling block and the pfte tube gets inserted into). One thing I forgot to mention is that before I removed the ptfe the first time after the problems began I marked the edge with a permanent marker so I know from fact that the ptfe tube never was in deeper than a few cms at best from factory. It's a miracle the printer worked so long to begin with. Bad manufacturing, bad assembly, bad QC I guess, the whole program. When I looked down into the hole of the metal tube the pfte tube gets inserted into it was clear the ptfe tube couldn't pass, over 1-2 mm of height where the metal was deformed inside so that the passthrough diameter was reduced about 2cm in, so ptfe tube couldn't pass (100% sure it wasn't old ptfe tube remains), so I drilled slowly into it using a drill bit that was just the diameter of the metal tube, making sure I just drill that deep and not damage the threads for the nozzle, metal shred came out, then the ptfe tube ofc could pass, and the printer worked fine from there. That said, I didn't wanna leave it like this on the long run, cannot be good nor that safe so I ordered a new Creality Ender 3 v2 Neo Hotend set and replaced the whole thing, had to open electronics spot to connect the new wires and pull those wires through the sheats as well as removing the old ones obviously and ofc, the replacement part I got didn't have that problem and from the get go the pfte tube could pass all the way through. Honestly I'm still gutted about it, cause you know how it is, how many people have the time, motivation and energy to send the whole thing back after 30 to 40 prints, even if it's only a few weeks old, stuff gonna have signs of usage and you never know what customer support clusterf*** you could end up with on top of all you already had to endure so far. It's a fine machine but probably just one or a few random slackers that worked in the factory that day or a series of tough luck in manufacturing, I guess... That all said, I can confirm the ptfe tube has to go through all the way to the nozzle and it's been printing like that np for twice as much as before the problem started so I guess this is the way! If you do that I'd recommend to use the opportunity to also swap the stock ptfe by capricorn tube, takes more heat and better quality.
Legit some problem here, had a tube blockage and now I see that the tube won't go all the way through, it stops about 2cms in and will not budge. Not keen on drilling it out but likely going to need to buy a thinner tubing or something, if the tube really is supposed to reach all the way to the nozzle this is a pretty huge oversight! :-(
Excellent video, just what I was looking for, it took my worry and uneasiness out :) I have a couple of questions though, it would be great if you or anybody else could help with some short answers: 12:42, 15:51 and 16:38 What size is that wrench to hold the heater block? 17:01 Do you have to perform *all* the steps of the nozzle replacement (from 11:25 and up to this point) with the heater block at 200 degrees? Thanks!
ALSO: Be SUPER CAREFUL when pushing the fan cover aside while working, and letting it hang on the fan wires, the fan that comes with the unit is cheapo-quality and the solder connections pop loose and the fan stops and the entire machine stops without the cold-side fan, (ask me how I know)! LOL
I had to replace the Mainboard because of this.....The power shorted out and I tried replacing the surface mount fuse and just ended up making it worse. Luckily boards are cheap. Not cheap enough but not a deal breaker.
I learned the hard way to ensure to keep the cover well out of the way of the hot end when it's still hot...luckily it only melted the clips a little bit!
Very well explained with a lot of detail, thank you very much! My machine jams a lot and followed the steps to open it clean it. I believe that gap came from factory and after many big prints, the quality worsen, I understand now why
Great video helped me alot when I broke the filament in the tube. What hight do you set the offset to, I see you using a piece of paper but is there a measurement for this in 0.00 mm.
I’ve watched a few of your videos on this topic, and they have been very helpful, thank you. A related question, if you have the time to answer. If not, no problem. I’ve had to fully disassemble the hot end including removing the heat break. After much searching of similar videos, I haven’t been able to find guidance regarding the proper installation of the heat break itself. Should it be more loose in the heater block and not touching the back of the nozzle, or should it threaded into the heater block so it physically touches the back of the nozzle? Take care.
Thank you, I did go through your links to buy the stuff I needed, that way I will have it when I need it. Only have had my printer for 3 days. I like it and am having fun making parts for my Amateur Radio antennas.
Many thanks indeed. Very useful, informative and put together fantastically. The items you were linking in amazon dont seem to be avaiable , in the UK. If you are an Amazon partner coul dyou add items that you honsetly recommend that are avaible, and in th eUK so that you get the benfit. Many thanks Steve
I replaced my bowden tube with a Capricorn tube, but I find now that it isn't able to be pushed right through the nozzle hole like the old PTFE tubing could. I'm not sure if this is normal, but there's no blockage, it just stops when it reaches the nozzle area. I've cleaned it all out but still no go.
I don't use Capricorn tubing for this and other reasons, you will get better results with standard PTFE tubing (check my website for recommended brand link.)
No, that sounds like you need to tune your PID settings that control temperature. Check this video out: th-cam.com/video/HMu2Juj5o94/w-d-xo.htmlsi=4X28MChjhBJw90XD
if you wiggle the bowden tube is the whole heat sink, heater block, nozzle supposed to wiggle back and forth easy inside the extruder? i've suddenly started experiencing layer shift and trying to narrow it down
@@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors that's what i was thinking. I have the exact same printer you're showing here. I've misplaced the allen wrenches that came with it. do you know what size i need to remove that screw from the hot end fan shroud?
@@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors it was a 2 mm. the same wrench worked to tighten the two loose screws on the inside. you were right they were definitely loose. I just put it the shroud back on and about to do a test print. fingers crossed this was what was causing the layer shift.
to3dph bringing the fire! best tips video i've ever seen. i've been doing fdm for many years and i learend a ton. now somebody tell everybody to stop handling their pei sheets! i see all the cool kids fondling those things like they're gollum's ring. i swear i so much as lightly graze a knuckle on the bed and i mess up at least a couple prints. i don't even think you need to ipa/soapwater clean that often if you just take care not to touch it.
Can you help I have an Ender 3 v2 neo from what I understand the hot fan is supposed to stay always on mine comes on but shuts off after a couple minutes giving me heat creep. I’m thinking it’s the motherboard. Do you have any suggestions?
Could also be a broken wire that the connection breaks at a certain height. Before you mess with the board or anything else just try replacing the fan.
Good guide, But I have a question: I did everything from your guide but when I print the filament doesn't extrude and I checked the extruder motor is working but I doesn't pull filament. I tried to pre-heat pla at 215 and I tried from the menu to pull 100 mm filament , but the filament stops after 25/30 mm and the extruder motor continues to work.
On the hunt for a FDM printer for my miniature hobby pleasure, would this (or any other printer you have tested the last year) be able to get as fine prints as the Ender 2 Pro you made a video about?
@@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors So that will produce as fine minis as the Ender-2 Pro? Thats good news if so! Are you planning on making a video on that specifically? :)
Please please please......... If you buy the replacement hotend kit, make sure you double check for any play where the Bowden tube enters the hotend. Mine had some slight movement and I carried out the method as suggested in this video, when I checked, the Bowden tube was at least 2cm short of meeting with the Face of the nozzle 😮. This was sent out from the factory like this 😡😡
PC4-M10 is what you need for the hot end. PC4-M6s are usually used for the extruder, but they switched that to the plastic insert so there is no threading.
@Tomb of 3D Printed Horrors ah OK that explains my problem. I got a Neo off a friend who had been having trouble with it, and she was just ready to move on from the printer. The main issue is that it looks like she at some point, had pulled out the plastic insert, from the extruder. I didn't realize it was a fully different build, so I'll just have to replace the extruder, but that's no big issue. Thanks for the help!
@@VolkanTaninmis show me a direct drive setup that can print minis with the same (or better) quality as these: th-cam.com/video/iEdCTuK7ZW0/w-d-xo.html
@@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors I do not need to show you anything. It is so clear that, there is an uncontrollable pressure between extruder and nozzle in bowden setups. Even with linear advance. you are printing so slow with thin layers. It is impossible to understand your resistance to new steps in 3d printing. Also: No brunt bowden, no clogs and ability to print almost all materials.
TH-cam is swamped with tons of 3d print how to videos and other miscellania, this video is well made, informative, and provides accurate information, I enjoyed learning from it and highly recommend this users videos for instructional purposes!
Thank you!
IF you were interested, The dropping under own weight can be fixed by a dual z mod. I believe the 2 steppers "power" each other preventing movement
Thanks for posting this video. Very informative and helpful. I have the Ender 3 Neo and Ender 3 Max Neo. So far, I haven't had any issues. I really like them. I've been wondering about the newer hot end setup. Your detailed video answered all of my questions. When it comes time for maintenance, I have Capricorn tubing, nozzles and fitting connectors ready to go (6 printers, so...) :).
I am having trouble with my Neo max with the same problem and I have to say that this is the best video I have ever watched on TH-cam that helps, so thank you for this Tom.
Glad it helped you!
Great video, helped me out a lot in diagnosing my extrusion problems. Just knowing how the entire hot end works helps a lot.
“ I’d like an omelet, plain, and a chicken salad sandwich on wheat toast, no mayonnaise, no butter, no lettuce and a cup of coffee.” 😂😂😂
Excellent video by the way.
I love that u used the paint to keep it up! Smart
Thanks a lot for this video.
I had a perfectly well working Ender 3 v2 Neo, 40 prints no problem until I had a filament break before it enters the PTFE tubing at the push mechanism.
Didn't notice it immediately and the printer continued printing without any more filament pushing through.
So extrusion completely blocked after many cold pulls and tries to clean nozzle etc.
I then tried yours and similar methods but I have the problem that I cannot get the PTFE tubing more than 1.5 to 2cms in, so I cannot have it go all the way through, only thing I managed to do is to get a huge clogg out of the extruder with a thin screwdriver, completely cleaned the nozzle and reassembled and the symptoms continued again.
Until I watched your video I didn't know the PTFE had to go all the way through, but still tried again and even with 250°C I can't get the PTFE tube more than 2 cm in.
What's going on? What can I try? Is it possible than some part of the PTFE tubing got stuck or melted inside the extruder heat block?
What are the 2 grab screws in front on the heater block for, do you maybe need to unscrew those to get the PTFE tube all the way through?
What else could I be doing wrong or be missing?
Thanks a lot for any suggestion.
Exact same problem did you ever find a fix I just keep clogging I have to the nozzle all the way off to get it unclogged and I think my tube can’t go deep enough either
@ragcrafter yeah I solved the problem, the root cause was a bad manufactured part (metal tube that's inside the cooling block and the pfte tube gets inserted into).
One thing I forgot to mention is that before I removed the ptfe the first time after the problems began I marked the edge with a permanent marker so I know from fact that the ptfe tube never was in deeper than a few cms at best from factory.
It's a miracle the printer worked so long to begin with.
Bad manufacturing, bad assembly, bad QC I guess, the whole program.
When I looked down into the hole of the metal tube the pfte tube gets inserted into it was clear the ptfe tube couldn't pass, over 1-2 mm of height where the metal was deformed inside so that the passthrough diameter was reduced about 2cm in, so ptfe tube couldn't pass (100% sure it wasn't old ptfe tube remains), so I drilled slowly into it using a drill bit that was just the diameter of the metal tube, making sure I just drill that deep and not damage the threads for the nozzle, metal shred came out, then the ptfe tube ofc could pass, and the printer worked fine from there.
That said, I didn't wanna leave it like this on the long run, cannot be good nor that safe so I ordered a new Creality Ender 3 v2 Neo Hotend set and replaced the whole thing, had to open electronics spot to connect the new wires and pull those wires through the sheats as well as removing the old ones obviously and ofc, the replacement part I got didn't have that problem and from the get go the pfte tube could pass all the way through.
Honestly I'm still gutted about it, cause you know how it is, how many people have the time, motivation and energy to send the whole thing back after 30 to 40 prints, even if it's only a few weeks old, stuff gonna have signs of usage and you never know what customer support clusterf*** you could end up with on top of all you already had to endure so far.
It's a fine machine but probably just one or a few random slackers that worked in the factory that day or a series of tough luck in manufacturing, I guess...
That all said, I can confirm the ptfe tube has to go through all the way to the nozzle and it's been printing like that np for twice as much as before the problem started so I guess this is the way!
If you do that I'd recommend to use the opportunity to also swap the stock ptfe by capricorn tube, takes more heat and better quality.
@@stevefpv4669 How did you fix the problem?
Legit some problem here, had a tube blockage and now I see that the tube won't go all the way through, it stops about 2cms in and will not budge. Not keen on drilling it out but likely going to need to buy a thinner tubing or something, if the tube really is supposed to reach all the way to the nozzle this is a pretty huge oversight! :-(
This is one of the best videos I’ve ever seen, the explanations are very clear to understand, thumbs up my friend keep doing this the way you do ❤
Excellent video, just what I was looking for, it took my worry and uneasiness out :) I have a couple of questions though, it would be great if you or anybody else could help with some short answers:
12:42, 15:51 and 16:38 What size is that wrench to hold the heater block?
17:01 Do you have to perform *all* the steps of the nozzle replacement (from 11:25 and up to this point) with the heater block at 200 degrees?
Thanks!
I wish I watched this video first ! But I'll be back on track soon ordering some parts and back up and running
Thank you. So hard to find info on this printer specifically.
This is the best video since sliced bread. Thanks for this.
ALSO:
Be SUPER CAREFUL when pushing the fan cover aside while working, and letting it hang on the fan wires, the fan that comes with the unit is cheapo-quality and the solder connections pop loose and the fan stops and the entire machine stops without the cold-side fan, (ask me how I know)! LOL
I guess you know the same way I know! 😅
@@IslandUsurper Likewise.
I had to replace the Mainboard because of this.....The power shorted out and I tried replacing the surface mount fuse and just ended up making it worse. Luckily boards are cheap. Not cheap enough but not a deal breaker.
I learned the hard way to ensure to keep the cover well out of the way of the hot end when it's still hot...luckily it only melted the clips a little bit!
Timely, my Neo arrived yesterday
Very well explained with a lot of detail, thank you very much! My machine jams a lot and followed the steps to open it clean it. I believe that gap came from factory and after many big prints, the quality worsen, I understand now why
You're a Goddamn hero, same problem couldn't understand why and you solved it !
Thanks a lot!
Great video helped me alot when I broke the filament in the tube. What hight do you set the offset to, I see you using a piece of paper but is there a measurement for this in 0.00 mm.
mines set at-2.6. Not sure if they are all different though and I'm brand new at this. Only done 3 prints so far lol
I’ve watched a few of your videos on this topic, and they have been very helpful, thank you. A related question, if you have the time to answer. If not, no problem. I’ve had to fully disassemble the hot end including removing the heat break. After much searching of similar videos, I haven’t been able to find guidance regarding the proper installation of the heat break itself. Should it be more loose in the heater block and not touching the back of the nozzle, or should it threaded into the heater block so it physically touches the back of the nozzle?
Take care.
The heat break should touch the nozzle.
Are the nozzles proprietary or can I use any generic replacement nozzle ?
I’m not able to push my Bowen tube downward
Did you find a solution?
Your hot end needs to be hot for this.
Could be filled with filament stuck in the hole, I’m pretty sure I’ve the same issue with my printer 😢 I’m here to see if I can solved it
got this issue rn , huge blockage i think
@@birdcrossing Did u solved it? Having the same issues rn
Thank you, I did go through your links to buy the stuff I needed, that way I will have it when I need it. Only have had my printer for 3 days. I like it and am having fun making parts for my Amateur Radio antennas.
Many thanks indeed. Very useful, informative and put together fantastically. The items you were linking in amazon dont seem to be avaiable , in the UK. If you are an Amazon partner coul dyou add items that you honsetly recommend that are avaible, and in th eUK so that you get the benfit. Many thanks Steve
I replaced my bowden tube with a Capricorn tube, but I find now that it isn't able to be pushed right through the nozzle hole like the old PTFE tubing could. I'm not sure if this is normal, but there's no blockage, it just stops when it reaches the nozzle area. I've cleaned it all out but still no go.
I don't use Capricorn tubing for this and other reasons, you will get better results with standard PTFE tubing (check my website for recommended brand link.)
Is it possible that the gap causes thermal runaway? mine wont stay at temperature (also with a new thermistor). its fluctuating 10 - 20 degree celcius
No, that sounds like you need to tune your PID settings that control temperature. Check this video out: th-cam.com/video/HMu2Juj5o94/w-d-xo.htmlsi=4X28MChjhBJw90XD
if you wiggle the bowden tube is the whole heat sink, heater block, nozzle supposed to wiggle back and forth easy inside the extruder? i've suddenly started experiencing layer shift and trying to narrow it down
Nope, you have screws that have come loose. All of those items should be rock solid.
@@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors that's what i was thinking. I have the exact same printer you're showing here. I've misplaced the allen wrenches that came with it. do you know what size i need to remove that screw from the hot end fan shroud?
@@SleuthFilms sorry, I don't.
@@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors that’s cool. I just went to the store and bought a set of them.
@@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors it was a 2 mm. the same wrench worked to tighten the two loose screws on the inside. you were right they were definitely loose. I just put it the shroud back on and about to do a test print. fingers crossed this was what was causing the layer shift.
to3dph bringing the fire! best tips video i've ever seen. i've been doing fdm for many years and i learend a ton. now somebody tell everybody to stop handling their pei sheets! i see all the cool kids fondling those things like they're gollum's ring. i swear i so much as lightly graze a knuckle on the bed and i mess up at least a couple prints. i don't even think you need to ipa/soapwater clean that often if you just take care not to touch it.
Fyi, i have added parts to apply the hot end fix to this model.
Can you help I have an Ender 3 v2 neo from what I understand the hot fan is supposed to stay always on mine comes on but shuts off after a couple minutes giving me heat creep. I’m thinking it’s the motherboard. Do you have any suggestions?
Could also be a broken wire that the connection breaks at a certain height. Before you mess with the board or anything else just try replacing the fan.
This was exactly what I needed! Very helpful, thanks a lot!
Good guide,
But I have a question: I did everything from your guide but when I print the filament doesn't extrude and I checked the extruder motor is working but I doesn't pull filament.
I tried to pre-heat pla at 215 and I tried from the menu to pull 100 mm filament , but the filament stops after 25/30 mm and the extruder motor continues to work.
Did you solve it?
So why is my coupler built into this dang thing lol?? It’s seriously one solid piece
On the hunt for a FDM printer for my miniature hobby pleasure, would this (or any other printer you have tested the last year) be able to get as fine prints as the Ender 2 Pro you made a video about?
The Ender-2 V2 Neo will get as good as the 2 Pro
@@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors Is that a new printer coming? Cant find it on their website.
Or did you mean Ender 3 v2 neo?
@@Xav1ez sorry, I meant the Ender-3 V2 Neo
@@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors So that will produce as fine minis as the Ender-2 Pro? Thats good news if so! Are you planning on making a video on that specifically? :)
Please please please......... If you buy the replacement hotend kit, make sure you double check for any play where the Bowden tube enters the hotend. Mine had some slight movement and I carried out the method as suggested in this video, when I checked, the Bowden tube was at least 2cm short of meeting with the Face of the nozzle 😮. This was sent out from the factory like this 😡😡
Hey there! I've got the PC4-M6 couplers, but they don't seem to fit the Neo, do you know if something was changed on the design?
PC4-M10 is what you need for the hot end. PC4-M6s are usually used for the extruder, but they switched that to the plastic insert so there is no threading.
@Tomb of 3D Printed Horrors ah OK that explains my problem. I got a Neo off a friend who had been having trouble with it, and she was just ready to move on from the printer. The main issue is that it looks like she at some point, had pulled out the plastic insert, from the extruder. I didn't realize it was a fully different build, so I'll just have to replace the extruder, but that's no big issue. Thanks for the help!
@@PotterThroughTheAges you will be happier with a replaced extruder that uses the M6 coupler, much easier to get replacement couplers (and cheaper).
@@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors Is there an extruder you recommend for the v2 Neo that will work with the M6 couplers?
@@pacdude11 this is the one I added to my Neo (I loathe the stock coupler!) amzn.to/3Mlke5B
why link to download profile to cura not works?
It works just fine, I just tried it.
Looking for a new hotend for you ender 3 neo? YOOPAI Spark Ender 3 NEO
... finally found this on Amazon and its been working great so far
Great, that help me so much, you can not Imagine.
thanks for this video. helped me not brake my bowden tube.
thnaks
Kudos to you Sir!
Why you don't use all metal hotend? Or bi metallic throat? With direct drive, they perform excellent. 😊
Not for gaming terrain and minis.
@@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors Unbelievable....
@@VolkanTaninmis show me a direct drive setup that can print minis with the same (or better) quality as these: th-cam.com/video/iEdCTuK7ZW0/w-d-xo.html
@@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors I do not need to show you anything. It is so clear that, there is an uncontrollable pressure between extruder and nozzle in bowden setups. Even with linear advance.
you are printing so slow with thin layers. It is impossible to understand your resistance to new steps in 3d printing.
Also: No brunt bowden, no clogs and ability to print almost all materials.
@@VolkanTaninmis show me 28mm minis printed with your suggested setup. I show printed proof of my setup/settings, now you do the same.
Vid is awsome thank you so much
Thank you for this!
Excellent advise and easy instruktions! You sir are a godsent!
very helpful.. thansk
dude good stuff
💕👍