Changing Nozzles & Bowden Tubes
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 พ.ค. 2024
- Learn how to install a new nozzle and Bowden tube on your 3D printer. We also show how to replace worn insulation on the Ender 3 and Ender 5 heater block with a silicon cover.
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Amazon affiliate links (As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases):
Ender 3 and 3 Pro printers:
Ender 3 printer:
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Ender 3 'Pro':
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Links for discussed parts:
Nozzles for Creality Ender 3:
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Bowden tube:
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Tube cutting tool:
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Kapton tape:
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Silicone heater block cover:
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I have been wanting a 3D printer for a long time. I had been putting it off because there isn't anyone I know that has one and I don't like social media. Watching these videos has helped me feel like I can get an Ender-3, put it together, fix it, and maybe an upgrade. I like the way you explain things and point out what to be aware of. I am looking forward to more videos.
Thank you!
Tyler McDowell I am with you on this. After watching these videos I have bit the bullet and bought my first printer.
Tyler McDowel
@@magiclarry7688 how are you liking it?
@@Etj1013 I have been using it a lot. Mostly making parts for machines that have no parts available for repairs.
Hi Tyler. I bought an ender 3 about 8 months ago and used this channel to show me how to put it together. His explanations are amazing. Take the plunge. I also don’t do social media but everything you need to know is on TH-cam. 3D printing is a blast. You will love it.
Perfect timing. I've had my Ender 3 and just had upgraded the bed when a clog happened. I replaced the nozzle but filament kept slipping outside the tube. I figure I'll buy a dozen nozzles and get better couplers with tubing. Thanks for the great series!
This video was fantastic and I appreciate when people like you take the time to help the rest of the world! I am still very new to 3D printing and this helped me understand whats going on with the hot end. I upgraded the bowden tube at the suggestion of a friend who has some extra of the blue stuff.
For me, I found that it was much easier to cut the tube with an unused utility knife/carpet knife blade. Just set the blade on top of the the tubing and gently press and it cuts through like butter. No burrs, splits, or anything-perfectly. The tubing cutter in the video is more for larger pipe, like in plumbing. Few people will have one laying around and if you're not careful, you could end up twisting the tubing slightly and closing the ID at the pinch point.
My first printer was a Tevo Tarantula, and i have to say the amount of support for the Ender3 alone makes it better.
Almost everything i found for the TT in terms of maintenance, settings, calibration, or even just setting the damn thing up assumed you had some heavy modification on it instead of stock. Everything i find for the Ender3 is base or simple coupling change so its actually all RELEVANT
Thank you for all these great videos, they help me tremendously
Just a heads up. I just got an Ender 3 Pro a week ago and it comes standard with a black silicone sock. So if you're watching the video and decide to order the sock ahead of time, you may not need it if you have a recent machine.
Another valuable video. This is my go-to channel for Ender 3 info.
thats exactly what i did lol maybe i will change after awhile but i dont see these ever wearing out
My silicone sock just came off mid print (literally still printing now), I think I caught it and damaged it when changing the nozzle. 🙈
I'd recommend getting a few back up silicone socks. I ended up having to replace one that was torn.
Amazing series. Ordered my Ender 3 today as a result of these. Thanks very much.
This is the only nozzle replacement video I've seen that mentions any sort of safety guidelines, so this is the ones I'm gong to follow! Thanks for the thorough advice!
When I saw a diagram that was concise I was compelled to thumbs up.
Thanks!
Best video I have seen. I'm changing my nozzle for the first time on my ender 5. You have touched on some things that made better sense. Well Done, sir.
Had my Ender 3 for 3 years now, and I still reference this video every time I need to swap out my nozzle and Bowden tube 🙌
Really love the way you explain things, sounds like I'm explaining it to myself, very easy to understand.
Very helpful. I’ve been fighting underextruding issues on my TronXY printer. I’ll try this. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you for your help
Had a clogged tube, purchased new tubing
And despite it not coming with a cutter and wanting to save time and cut it myself, I ordered a separate cutter due to your recommendation
Everything works now
I tried a pipe cutter like the one shown on the bowden tube, and instead of making a clean cut, the tube end was badly deformed. I rotated it around the tube slowly increasing pressure but it wasn't cutting into it well, maybe it was not sharp enough(?). I got much better results using an xacto knife and a sawing motion. Thanks for doing these videos, they are very helpful and thorough without a lot of annoying music/long pauses etc.
Excellent video. Just went through it to change my nozzle and switch to capricorn tubing (the stock one seemed to melt at the nozzle end) and following this process made it painless and its working perfectly. Thank you for this!
Your videos about this, and about diagnosing under extrusion issues have been paramount to getting my Ender up and printing correctly. Thank you for this wonderful source of information.
I am brand new to 3D printing, and here to gain knowledge -- but wanted to point out something that may help others, in regards to importance of keeping heat-sink clean. Most are familiar with computers, graphics-cards and heating issues, etc. and should be aware of the importance of keeping dust from accumulating in/on the various parts of the cooling system in the computer (most use compressed air to clean fins of heat-sinks, fan blades, etc.). I think that the same care should be applied to keeping the heat-sink and fans clean on these printers, to help alleviate problems with what I've seen described as 'heat-creep' in many places. Just a thought I had today, as I watched this video.
If I am wrong, I apologize, and blame the error on my being brand-new to 3D printing.
Worked perfectly for my nozzle and bowden replacement. Thanks!
Thanks for this. After a year and a half of avoiding maintenance on my printer, I am swapping a bunch of things (bearings, hot end, etc.).
Also thanks for confirmation that 3D printer maintenance is a Dark Art and that devotion to the Great Old Ones can help.
Great video. I just wanted to give you an update. I received my Ender 3 six days ago. Creality is no longer warping the hot end with thermal tape. They are now using a black silicon rubber boot with a cute little Creality logo on it to cover the hot end. They have also re-positioned the wires to the side so they are no longer pinched with housing cover and they are using a longer wrap on the wires so that the wires have more covering on them to provide extra abrasion protection. Cheers.
Super helpful walkthrough! Just completed my first tubing and nozzle change with no issues! Thanks so much! 😃
I appreciate your doubling down on the fire aspects, most gloss over those and i've been looking~
Thanks for the info helped me sort out my new ender 3 pro that I was having problems with, (my own doing I had damaged the nozzle) now its working and printing fantastically.
Videos like this are a godsend when you don't know the rights and wrongs.
Tom,
Thank you for this wonderful video! It was just what I needed in order to fix
my Ender 3. As a person new to 3D printing appreciate all the diagrams, close up photos, and extra tips.
Awesome, thank you for watching!
This video is a few years old, but it is just what I needed to see! Now maybe I can fix my Ender 3:s that clogged up, stopped extruding in the middle of a few days long prints, having changed to a new sort of PLA.
Thank you :) Just had a print fail at the halfway point (luckily on a very flat area, so I can just edit the model and likely finish & glue it) - and as a new 3D hobbyist, I was worried I had broken something. Then I figured it is likely just a clog somewhere, and found your amazing video.
Took everything apart and reassembled thanks to your video - THANK YOU :)
The only issue I had, was that the bowden tube itself was stuck in the hot end (even after removing the nozzle. In reading around I discovered instead of pulling it out, it was easier to push it through, clip it, then pull it out. Hope that saves someone else some time.
Test print came out incredible :)
Thanks so much for this video! Was in a spot of frustration where I was about to give up but I'm printing clean again!
Hey Tom, the color can have an influence over the rate of wear, the melt flow or even the warpage tendency:
Carbon black - slows the melt flow & nucleates the resin causing warp
Organic Red & Ultramarine blue pigments - nucleates causing warp
Titanium dioxide (white) - Increases the abrasion of the melt
green is pretty safe in my experience (17 years of extruding color)
Gray is probably not too bad
This such an awesome and informative channel! It combines my favorite hobbies, 3d printing and gaming.
Excellent video, clear and concise, and helped me to quickly solve my printing issue after attempting a nozzle change for the first time. The 3/4 turn trick fixed everything! Thanks, subscribed.
I know this is a somewhat old video (2.5yrs at the time of this comment), but I know this is a go-to source for wisdom. So, I'm going to add my bit to it: BEFORE you start installing the new nozzle...
- Take your cleaning pin and double-check that it's the correct diameter for the nozzle itself with a good caliper
- Force it through the tip/outside end. You may meet resistance, so apply constant pressure until it passes through. Once through, give it a few good twists for good measure
- Pull it out and now push it through the hotend/inside end. If you met resistance before, you'll probably feel it again, but not as strong. Push all the way through, give a few good twists, and slide the nozzle back and forth a few times.
- Proceed with Tom's instructions and finger-tighten the nozzle to the heating block.
The saying is true: you get what you pay for. So if you're buying cheap nozzles like me (and I'm guessing like Tom here), this will help make sure they are the proper diameter and don't have any internal spurs which will cause clogs. Even expensive/high-quality nozzles can have this problem (can't catch ever defect), so it's worth doing regardless even if it is to help remove a potential variable during debugging.
IF it passes through with ease, your nozzle diameter may be larger than what it's marked. You should feel some resistance, like how you can pass the paper between the hotend and the bed when you're leveling. So if you feel none, consider using it as a larger-diameter nozzle instead or toss it.
So I just got my ENder 5 recently thanks to all your helpful videos and suggestions. One thing I've learned is to make sure that you place the nozzle flush with the heater block. Might seem like common sense, but it didn't hit me until I went to try another attempt at the cable bracket you've linked in other videos...This prevents you from having to redo bed leveling by having a set surface. Then again...if your nozzles are not machined within a well enough tolerance, you may have to do bed leveling again after you switch to a different brand or even a different batch (from the same manufacturer) of nozzles. Always learning :)
EDIT: Also just went to Auto Home and noticed that the glass bed upgrade I got with the printer is just touching the tip of the nozzle, even with the bed lowered as far as it will go on the springs...Looks like I'm going to add a small washer under the Z Limit screw on the bed to lower the whole thing. Guess the nozzles I got are a bit longer than the stock Creality ones!
Thank you so much for the guide on a clogged nozzle. I had replaced the tube and extruder with the metal one but suddenly couldnt print and I was loosing my mind all day trying to figure out what I did wrong... It is now extruding perfectly thank you so much.
Thanks just what I need to do now Ive jumped from PLA to PETG and blocked the lot up. Subbed , so will be looking at the Ender 5 playlists and try and get started in really understanding what Im doing. Great way of explaining by the way
I will be using your tips to build/modify my Ender 3 printer. I just received it today. Thanks for the great content.
Thanks :)
Couldn't have done it without you mate. Thanks!!!
Thumbs up for detailed information and close-up shots in the video
This explains SO much.
All new to 3D printers and i struggeled with mine until i found out that the heating cartridge were not working.
So while i will change this, i also will give it a new printerhead since (most likely) it was that damaged printerhead that did something with the cartridge.
It's a 2nd hand printer so i'm not to sure how much life the nozzle has, but def will try to find a new one for my ender 3.
Thank you for the excellent information. Your channel has among the best content for Ender 3 printers.
Thank you so much for this video. I just bought my first 3d printer, an Ender 5 Pro and from the first test print it had issues with extruding. I was about to throw it out the window, well maybe have Creality take it back. But then I ran across your video, and with your help figured out it was the Boden tube not seated correctly to the nozzle. Than you again.
Same here. I bought my first 3D printer, and Ender 5 Pro and the first calibration print looked great. Then it started to clog on some test prints. Going to take it apart today and fix the clog. Thanks for all your informative videos.
Great videos for a newbie like me, I replaced the extruder after following your video on my Mini Delta.
New Sub
Excellent tutorial! You have an effective, concise teaching style!
Your channel is so helpful and useful. I have learned a lot about the Ender 3 thanks to you.
Thank you for another brilliant video, Professor Tom! I love that you link all the parts and tools to Amazon.
Nice tutorial, thanks for sharing👍😀
I like your 3d print videos you speak clearly and well explained Very professional. Thank you.
That was a great video on how to. My ender 3 v2 just started clogging it seems and my extruder has been skipping and clunking. I just finished a 50 inch Saturn V rocket lamp. And my printer sat for a couple weeks.Thats when i started having my issue. I ordered a new boden tube. I also noticed my tube at the extruder end was moving back and forth. I guess the lock needs to be replaced. Again great video thank you
Great video, thank you! After a recent print went wonky, there seems to be under-extrusion issues and I'm thinking it's a partial blockage...I wasn't sure if that can happen. I though it would either be blocked completely or not, but it's worth looking at :)
Had to change my first nozzle made it so easy from this video Thank You Very Much !
This video is F***in amazing. Holy crap, I can't thank you enough. You have really helped a frustrated soul today..... Thank you.
Imagine actually getting a wrench that fits your nozzle, couldn't be me. Ender 3 pro real 10/10
6mm. My nozzle broke though...
Had to use needle nose pliers cuz the ones that came with mine would burn my hands
Mine came with 2
@@weld4200 dang now i know where mine went lol
@@goldengamer8510 wouldnt surprise me honestly . im new 2 all this ..idk a good print from a bad or perfect one . idk wat any of the settings means or anything .. Im a welder by trade im wiling to learn . bashed my nozzle to the mag bed replaced the bed . now my extruder skips no clue why. Not sure if my bed is level but i got it 2 print . first layer is near see thru .. I also feel like my glass bed is warpped 2
Extremely helpful video, thank you!!!
I found your explanation the best and has helped me the most.
You are an excellent teacher, and the awesome shirts are an added bonus.
LOL thank you :)
Best Ender videos out there, you rule!
Every 3D enthusiast should subscribe to this channel. Best in the business!
This is the best video ever. So much solid great information
I order my ended 3 ... pretty excited to get my first 3D printer
Great!
how's it been?
Reemember buy some filament , the sample in the kit is a sample..yuo can print the foot of the ender dog..good luk ,its a good printer
Very detailed and helpfull instruction.Thanx
You communicate very well.
This video helped me alot!!
Love the intro... epic.
Great video, thank you!
Great videos! I just bought 3 different 3d printers on cyber Monday. I was about to return them because I cant figure out how to fine tune them properly. After watching 3 of your videos guides i feel a little more educated on these. I will be installing upgrades and optimizing with your instructions tonight :).
Question: Which 3D printer would you choose if you wanted highest quality print, least maintenance, auto adjusting, fast print speed?
Thanks for all of your very helpful videos! Keep up the Amazing work!
Great video mate!
Amazing video, best information video if ever seen
thanks, i had forgotten to install the screw that keeps the temp sensor in place
I have a CR-10S instead of an Ender, but I think everything relevant looks the same and hopefully this is exactly what I need. Thanks!
Ys, the CR-10 is identical in regards to this. :)
@@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors Yep, worked like a charm!
Would you recommend changing a stock nozzle on an Ender 3 to a 0.2 nozzle? I purchased the 0.2 0.3 0.4 0.5 nozzle pack you posted on a previous video but (as I am new) I am unsure as to when/if I should change it. Thank you very much for all of the vids!
amazing video thank you :)
very good video... e is have done this maany times... one thing is to also make sure when you hand tighten new nozzle is to make sure it seats on heat break tube and there some small gap left so when you do your final tighten it seats well against tube and not your block...and of coarse relevel...
Should have mentioned re-levelling at end of video. Even if seated on the heater block, variability of Nozzle dimensions will affect clearance to the bed.
Tip for cutting the bowden tube
Insert a piece of filament into the tube and then use your side cutters ... because the tube is now essentially solid, not hollow, it cuts cleanly without distorting and going oval
Great suggestion!
Hello, great video really informative.
I have a question though, I have removed the clogged nozzle and there is PLA still in the hot end (only a small membrane) where the Bowden tube and the nozzle would have met.
How would you recommend flushing/cleaning this out?
Thank you
3:39/15:00 I have the same unit as on the screen at this time interval. I removed the two screws that hold the heater block to the heat break. If you do this, you will not be able to seat the nozzle to the heater block. You will only be able to seat the nozzle to heat break. The heat break doesn't seat up against heater block from the factory. This might be why they left the two screws, to keep the heater block from spinning on the threads.
Nobody goes over this in detail. I had asked Chep about this, he said the heat break was supposed to be screwed in all the way into the block, and I also understood against the nozzle. It definitely was loose from the factory, but then so were those long screws.
Made a mess after the first time I replaced the nozzle as I didn't know about being sure the tube was tight against the nozzle.
I don't get why the heat break is even threaded into the block. Would make more sense to be a sleeve just as it is inside the heat sink.
great video!
Nice stuff here thanks!
Excellent - helped us greatly today, after coming home to an air printing Ender 3 and degraded/sticky Bowden tube end....
tack så mycket för detta det hjälpte mig jätte mycket :)
Thanks a lot !!!
The dragon on the thumbnail couldn't be placed any better🤣🤣🤣
I just got a teensy pipe cutter like this because a friend's bathroom pipes were too close to the wall to use my normal pipe cutter. Didn't occur to me I could also use it to trim bowden tubing!
Thank you! I was having filament bunch up above the nozzle and not extruded and I kept wondering whether or not the Bowden tube should go that far down or not. None of the supplied data with my ender pro mentioned or showed what you did at 5:45. Thanks a bunch for this video!
Wow - there are some videos that have this procedure completely wrong and I paid for it. This is a late comment but thanks a lot for the clear explanation.
Yep same here, now I got to wait a couple days for some new thermistors but hopefully the micro swiss that caused me to break the 1st thermistor will be worth it.
@@EmmettMontanaro I did the same thing, cranked down on the thermometer screw. I had bad readings but was able to back it off and it was ok. Good luck with yours.
Very Informative Video Well Done . :)
Thank you for your video's. Very clear and informative. One thing I noticed in this video; when you rotate your dial knob. It's very quick and reponsive to get to 205 degrees. When I do the same on my Ender 3 pro, I have to turn the dial a lot more turns for it to reach that same number! It's only upping in small increments and not very linear/stable. Any idea why? Is it firmware?
Very helpfull, thanks
Cheers for this :)
I see a whole bunch of different nozzle shapes, sizes, and materials out there. Is there any benefit to trying a steel adapter? Do they use brass because it transfers heat easier? Or are there other reasons?
if i want to change to .6mm do i need to change the bowden on a direct drive, only wanna do it to save time on prints.
One thing that is rarely discussed and not discussed here is the relationship between the nozzle, heat block and heat break.
I didn't know originally but figured out that the heat break screws into the heat block. What I've come to understand is that the heat break should screw into the block all the way, or at least have it bottom out against the nozzle, having the nozzle only far enough in that there's a small gap between the nozzle face on the thread side and the heat block.
So you would be tightening the nozzle as far as it would go so it seats against the heat break, then back it off so you can set up some squeeze pressure against the bowden tube.
Another approach some give to apply the tube pressure is to instead loosen the bowden tube coupler, push the tube all the way down, then tighten the coupler.
Do I have that all correct or is the heat break actually supposed to be loose in the block and not touching the base of the nozzle threading?
I just get so many problems with eSun PLA+, particularly stringing and blabbing even at its lowest recommended temp of 205c
I recently bought an ender 2 and was happily printing away for abt 1 year w/o issues before running into major print problems.
I have changed nozzle, bowden tube and heater cartridge as per your videos. I have also added the silicone cover. After assembling everything the nozzle doesnt heat up all the way anymore. It starts fine with abt 1 degree per second till it reaches 135 degrees and the temp climb becomes slower and slower until its at 155 degrees where a 1 degree climb happens after 33 seconds.
Did I do something wrong when connecting the heater cartridge?
This was very useful. I was able to clean and replace the clogged nozzle and Bowden tube. Although, my print looks much better, I continue to have a line of under extrusion - approximately 1/2 inch from the base of the print. I have replaced parts several times but continue to have this problem. Any suggestions?
I have a bl touch upgrade on ender 3 pro, can not raise gantry, I can lower it but once lowered, it will not move. I have disabled the steppers via CPU. BTW excellent video.
Great video, made the nozzle replacement process much clearer! However, I hate the fiddliness of pushing the Bowden tube down into the back of the nozzle. Would replacing the stock hot-end with an all-metal hot-end eliminate that bit? Is there any downside (other than cost) to using an all-metal hot-end when mostly running PLA+?
Yes all metal hotend ftw
At 13:35 The wiring on my fairly new Creality 3 pro, (given to me 2 months ago), does NOT have that braided insulation around the wires to the heater block. I have knowledge about wires/current flow. If you have that braided insulation, I don't think it's there due to the wire getting hot from electric current flow. It's most likely a wear protection thing.
thanks
That has to be the most random name for a youtube channel i have ever heard. Well done sir.
I have followed your guide and ended up with a leaking nozzle. You need to make sure that your new nozzle get tight together with the heat-block-pipe and not your bowden tube. If your hot-end is feeling "loose" there is most likely a leak in your hot-end and you might see filament dripping down elsewhere than from the nozzle tip. when the nozzle is tighten, remember to check is there is a gap between the heater block and the shoulder of the nozzle!