Changing Nozzles & Bowden Tubes

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  • เผยแพร่เมื่อ 24 ธ.ค. 2024
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ความคิดเห็น • 342

  • @altersilentium
    @altersilentium 6 ปีที่แล้ว +121

    I have been wanting a 3D printer for a long time. I had been putting it off because there isn't anyone I know that has one and I don't like social media. Watching these videos has helped me feel like I can get an Ender-3, put it together, fix it, and maybe an upgrade. I like the way you explain things and point out what to be aware of. I am looking forward to more videos.

    • @Tombof3DPrintedHorrors
      @Tombof3DPrintedHorrors  6 ปีที่แล้ว +8

      Thank you!

    • @magiclarry7688
      @magiclarry7688 5 ปีที่แล้ว +10

      Tyler McDowell I am with you on this. After watching these videos I have bit the bullet and bought my first printer.

    • @murrygans1786
      @murrygans1786 5 ปีที่แล้ว

      Tyler McDowel

    • @Etj1013
      @Etj1013 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@magiclarry7688 how are you liking it?

    • @magiclarry7688
      @magiclarry7688 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@Etj1013 I have been using it a lot. Mostly making parts for machines that have no parts available for repairs.

  • @suzigrossman399
    @suzigrossman399 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    This is the only nozzle replacement video I've seen that mentions any sort of safety guidelines, so this is the ones I'm gong to follow! Thanks for the thorough advice!

  • @speway
    @speway 11 หลายเดือนก่อน +3

    When I saw a diagram that was concise I was compelled to thumbs up.

  • @ericcsuf
    @ericcsuf 5 ปีที่แล้ว +52

    Just a heads up. I just got an Ender 3 Pro a week ago and it comes standard with a black silicone sock. So if you're watching the video and decide to order the sock ahead of time, you may not need it if you have a recent machine.
    Another valuable video. This is my go-to channel for Ender 3 info.

    • @truthseeker1364
      @truthseeker1364 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      thats exactly what i did lol maybe i will change after awhile but i dont see these ever wearing out

    • @Baggins_lover
      @Baggins_lover 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      My silicone sock just came off mid print (literally still printing now), I think I caught it and damaged it when changing the nozzle. 🙈

    • @raugust6786
      @raugust6786 2 ปีที่แล้ว

      I'd recommend getting a few back up silicone socks. I ended up having to replace one that was torn.

  • @musingsofanitwit
    @musingsofanitwit 5 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    This video was fantastic and I appreciate when people like you take the time to help the rest of the world! I am still very new to 3D printing and this helped me understand whats going on with the hot end. I upgraded the bowden tube at the suggestion of a friend who has some extra of the blue stuff.
    For me, I found that it was much easier to cut the tube with an unused utility knife/carpet knife blade. Just set the blade on top of the the tubing and gently press and it cuts through like butter. No burrs, splits, or anything-perfectly. The tubing cutter in the video is more for larger pipe, like in plumbing. Few people will have one laying around and if you're not careful, you could end up twisting the tubing slightly and closing the ID at the pinch point.

  • @Keepsworks
    @Keepsworks ปีที่แล้ว

    Your videos about this, and about diagnosing under extrusion issues have been paramount to getting my Ender up and printing correctly. Thank you for this wonderful source of information.

  • @allstarpro340
    @allstarpro340 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Had my Ender 3 for 3 years now, and I still reference this video every time I need to swap out my nozzle and Bowden tube 🙌

  • @murrygans1786
    @murrygans1786 5 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Hi Tyler. I bought an ender 3 about 8 months ago and used this channel to show me how to put it together. His explanations are amazing. Take the plunge. I also don’t do social media but everything you need to know is on TH-cam. 3D printing is a blast. You will love it.

  • @vineheart01
    @vineheart01 4 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    My first printer was a Tevo Tarantula, and i have to say the amount of support for the Ender3 alone makes it better.
    Almost everything i found for the TT in terms of maintenance, settings, calibration, or even just setting the damn thing up assumed you had some heavy modification on it instead of stock. Everything i find for the Ender3 is base or simple coupling change so its actually all RELEVANT
    Thank you for all these great videos, they help me tremendously

  • @JustinKase1969
    @JustinKase1969 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Thank you :) Just had a print fail at the halfway point (luckily on a very flat area, so I can just edit the model and likely finish & glue it) - and as a new 3D hobbyist, I was worried I had broken something. Then I figured it is likely just a clog somewhere, and found your amazing video.
    Took everything apart and reassembled thanks to your video - THANK YOU :)
    The only issue I had, was that the bowden tube itself was stuck in the hot end (even after removing the nozzle. In reading around I discovered instead of pulling it out, it was easier to push it through, clip it, then pull it out. Hope that saves someone else some time.
    Test print came out incredible :)

  • @timezonewall
    @timezonewall 5 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    I tried a pipe cutter like the one shown on the bowden tube, and instead of making a clean cut, the tube end was badly deformed. I rotated it around the tube slowly increasing pressure but it wasn't cutting into it well, maybe it was not sharp enough(?). I got much better results using an xacto knife and a sawing motion. Thanks for doing these videos, they are very helpful and thorough without a lot of annoying music/long pauses etc.

  • @merylkk4hfg120
    @merylkk4hfg120 4 ปีที่แล้ว +4

    You are an excellent teacher, and the awesome shirts are an added bonus.

  • @kenspaceman3938
    @kenspaceman3938 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    This video is a few years old, but it is just what I needed to see! Now maybe I can fix my Ender 3:s that clogged up, stopped extruding in the middle of a few days long prints, having changed to a new sort of PLA.

  • @droneys1348
    @droneys1348 4 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    Couldn't have done it without you mate. Thanks!!!

  • @paulk6399
    @paulk6399 4 ปีที่แล้ว

    Thank you for your help
    Had a clogged tube, purchased new tubing
    And despite it not coming with a cutter and wanting to save time and cut it myself, I ordered a separate cutter due to your recommendation
    Everything works now

  • @BsrlinMAZ
    @BsrlinMAZ ปีที่แล้ว

    I am brand new to 3D printing, and here to gain knowledge -- but wanted to point out something that may help others, in regards to importance of keeping heat-sink clean. Most are familiar with computers, graphics-cards and heating issues, etc. and should be aware of the importance of keeping dust from accumulating in/on the various parts of the cooling system in the computer (most use compressed air to clean fins of heat-sinks, fan blades, etc.). I think that the same care should be applied to keeping the heat-sink and fans clean on these printers, to help alleviate problems with what I've seen described as 'heat-creep' in many places. Just a thought I had today, as I watched this video.
    If I am wrong, I apologize, and blame the error on my being brand-new to 3D printing.

  • @MorleyTechVids
    @MorleyTechVids ปีที่แล้ว

    Excellent video, clear and concise, and helped me to quickly solve my printing issue after attempting a nozzle change for the first time. The 3/4 turn trick fixed everything! Thanks, subscribed.

  • @Itronin01
    @Itronin01 6 ปีที่แล้ว +9

    Perfect timing. I've had my Ender 3 and just had upgraded the bed when a clog happened. I replaced the nozzle but filament kept slipping outside the tube. I figure I'll buy a dozen nozzles and get better couplers with tubing. Thanks for the great series!

  • @FeralSparky
    @FeralSparky 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Thank you so much for the guide on a clogged nozzle. I had replaced the tube and extruder with the metal one but suddenly couldnt print and I was loosing my mind all day trying to figure out what I did wrong... It is now extruding perfectly thank you so much.

  • @mrtrimbeast
    @mrtrimbeast 4 ปีที่แล้ว

    Thanks for the info helped me sort out my new ender 3 pro that I was having problems with, (my own doing I had damaged the nozzle) now its working and printing fantastically.
    Videos like this are a godsend when you don't know the rights and wrongs.

  • @Ratpack30
    @Ratpack30 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    This explains SO much.
    All new to 3D printers and i struggeled with mine until i found out that the heating cartridge were not working.
    So while i will change this, i also will give it a new printerhead since (most likely) it was that damaged printerhead that did something with the cartridge.
    It's a 2nd hand printer so i'm not to sure how much life the nozzle has, but def will try to find a new one for my ender 3.

  • @beauslim
    @beauslim 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Thanks for this. After a year and a half of avoiding maintenance on my printer, I am swapping a bunch of things (bearings, hot end, etc.).
    Also thanks for confirmation that 3D printer maintenance is a Dark Art and that devotion to the Great Old Ones can help.

  • @mynameisRothko
    @mynameisRothko ปีที่แล้ว

    Excellent tutorial! You have an effective, concise teaching style!

  • @MasterSage50307
    @MasterSage50307 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    I know this is a somewhat old video (2.5yrs at the time of this comment), but I know this is a go-to source for wisdom. So, I'm going to add my bit to it: BEFORE you start installing the new nozzle...
    - Take your cleaning pin and double-check that it's the correct diameter for the nozzle itself with a good caliper
    - Force it through the tip/outside end. You may meet resistance, so apply constant pressure until it passes through. Once through, give it a few good twists for good measure
    - Pull it out and now push it through the hotend/inside end. If you met resistance before, you'll probably feel it again, but not as strong. Push all the way through, give a few good twists, and slide the nozzle back and forth a few times.
    - Proceed with Tom's instructions and finger-tighten the nozzle to the heating block.
    The saying is true: you get what you pay for. So if you're buying cheap nozzles like me (and I'm guessing like Tom here), this will help make sure they are the proper diameter and don't have any internal spurs which will cause clogs. Even expensive/high-quality nozzles can have this problem (can't catch ever defect), so it's worth doing regardless even if it is to help remove a potential variable during debugging.
    IF it passes through with ease, your nozzle diameter may be larger than what it's marked. You should feel some resistance, like how you can pass the paper between the hotend and the bed when you're leveling. So if you feel none, consider using it as a larger-diameter nozzle instead or toss it.

  • @10bz6d6
    @10bz6d6 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Thank you for the excellent information. Your channel has among the best content for Ender 3 printers.

  • @borgkube
    @borgkube 5 ปีที่แล้ว

    Great video. I just wanted to give you an update. I received my Ender 3 six days ago. Creality is no longer warping the hot end with thermal tape. They are now using a black silicon rubber boot with a cute little Creality logo on it to cover the hot end. They have also re-positioned the wires to the side so they are no longer pinched with housing cover and they are using a longer wrap on the wires so that the wires have more covering on them to provide extra abrasion protection. Cheers.

  • @CouchMonkeyPumper
    @CouchMonkeyPumper 4 ปีที่แล้ว +5

    Hey Tom, the color can have an influence over the rate of wear, the melt flow or even the warpage tendency:
    Carbon black - slows the melt flow & nucleates the resin causing warp
    Organic Red & Ultramarine blue pigments - nucleates causing warp
    Titanium dioxide (white) - Increases the abrasion of the melt
    green is pretty safe in my experience (17 years of extruding color)
    Gray is probably not too bad

  • @fyremonte
    @fyremonte 5 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Best video I have seen. I'm changing my nozzle for the first time on my ender 5. You have touched on some things that made better sense. Well Done, sir.

  • @YASAJTV
    @YASAJTV 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Thumbs up for detailed information and close-up shots in the video

  • @dlfabrications
    @dlfabrications 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    3:39/15:00 I have the same unit as on the screen at this time interval. I removed the two screws that hold the heater block to the heat break. If you do this, you will not be able to seat the nozzle to the heater block. You will only be able to seat the nozzle to heat break. The heat break doesn't seat up against heater block from the factory. This might be why they left the two screws, to keep the heater block from spinning on the threads.

    • @danman32
      @danman32 2 ปีที่แล้ว

      Nobody goes over this in detail. I had asked Chep about this, he said the heat break was supposed to be screwed in all the way into the block, and I also understood against the nozzle. It definitely was loose from the factory, but then so were those long screws.
      Made a mess after the first time I replaced the nozzle as I didn't know about being sure the tube was tight against the nozzle.
      I don't get why the heat break is even threaded into the block. Would make more sense to be a sleeve just as it is inside the heat sink.

  • @jonoisapanda
    @jonoisapanda ปีที่แล้ว

    Super helpful walkthrough! Just completed my first tubing and nozzle change with no issues! Thanks so much! 😃

  • @TomCei
    @TomCei 5 ปีที่แล้ว

    So I just got my ENder 5 recently thanks to all your helpful videos and suggestions. One thing I've learned is to make sure that you place the nozzle flush with the heater block. Might seem like common sense, but it didn't hit me until I went to try another attempt at the cable bracket you've linked in other videos...This prevents you from having to redo bed leveling by having a set surface. Then again...if your nozzles are not machined within a well enough tolerance, you may have to do bed leveling again after you switch to a different brand or even a different batch (from the same manufacturer) of nozzles. Always learning :)
    EDIT: Also just went to Auto Home and noticed that the glass bed upgrade I got with the printer is just touching the tip of the nozzle, even with the bed lowered as far as it will go on the springs...Looks like I'm going to add a small washer under the Z Limit screw on the bed to lower the whole thing. Guess the nozzles I got are a bit longer than the stock Creality ones!

  • @utkf16
    @utkf16 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Thanks just what I need to do now Ive jumped from PLA to PETG and blocked the lot up. Subbed , so will be looking at the Ender 5 playlists and try and get started in really understanding what Im doing. Great way of explaining by the way

  • @RYVENANT
    @RYVENANT 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Excellent video. Just went through it to change my nozzle and switch to capricorn tubing (the stock one seemed to melt at the nozzle end) and following this process made it painless and its working perfectly. Thank you for this!

  • @donfillenworth1721
    @donfillenworth1721 4 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Very helpful. I’ve been fighting underextruding issues on my TronXY printer. I’ll try this. Thanks for sharing.

  • @patspeth57
    @patspeth57 6 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Tom,
    Thank you for this wonderful video! It was just what I needed in order to fix
    my Ender 3. As a person new to 3D printing appreciate all the diagrams, close up photos, and extra tips.

  • @j.c.warren2322
    @j.c.warren2322 4 ปีที่แล้ว

    Thank you so much for this video. I just bought my first 3d printer, an Ender 5 Pro and from the first test print it had issues with extruding. I was about to throw it out the window, well maybe have Creality take it back. But then I ran across your video, and with your help figured out it was the Boden tube not seated correctly to the nozzle. Than you again.

    • @colleena7527
      @colleena7527 4 ปีที่แล้ว

      Same here. I bought my first 3D printer, and Ender 5 Pro and the first calibration print looked great. Then it started to clog on some test prints. Going to take it apart today and fix the clog. Thanks for all your informative videos.

  • @mclyker
    @mclyker 6 ปีที่แล้ว +8

    Amazing series. Ordered my Ender 3 today as a result of these. Thanks very much.

  • @Eunostos
    @Eunostos 6 ปีที่แล้ว +9

    I appreciate your doubling down on the fire aspects, most gloss over those and i've been looking~

  • @pasky7777
    @pasky7777 4 ปีที่แล้ว

    Every 3D enthusiast should subscribe to this channel. Best in the business!

  • @Jangter
    @Jangter 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    I found your explanation the best and has helped me the most.

  • @steveu235
    @steveu235 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    I like your 3d print videos you speak clearly and well explained Very professional. Thank you.

  • @johnkelley9877
    @johnkelley9877 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Your channel is so helpful and useful. I have learned a lot about the Ender 3 thanks to you.

  • @BobL1
    @BobL1 6 ปีที่แล้ว +4

    I will be using your tips to build/modify my Ender 3 printer. I just received it today. Thanks for the great content.

  • @estevanvaldez437
    @estevanvaldez437 6 ปีที่แล้ว +13

    I order my ended 3 ... pretty excited to get my first 3D printer

    • @Tombof3DPrintedHorrors
      @Tombof3DPrintedHorrors  6 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      Great!

    • @dinosoarskill17
      @dinosoarskill17 5 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      how's it been?

    • @noway8233
      @noway8233 5 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Reemember buy some filament , the sample in the kit is a sample..yuo can print the foot of the ender dog..good luk ,its a good printer

  • @Zanthis09
    @Zanthis09 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    This video is F***in amazing. Holy crap, I can't thank you enough. You have really helped a frustrated soul today..... Thank you.

  • @markhaywood7375
    @markhaywood7375 5 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Really love the way you explain things, sounds like I'm explaining it to myself, very easy to understand.

  • @SaltyBob355
    @SaltyBob355 4 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    This such an awesome and informative channel! It combines my favorite hobbies, 3d printing and gaming.

  • @mattnovotny9165
    @mattnovotny9165 4 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Best Ender videos out there, you rule!

  • @furballkimfpv9365
    @furballkimfpv9365 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    That was a great video on how to. My ender 3 v2 just started clogging it seems and my extruder has been skipping and clunking. I just finished a 50 inch Saturn V rocket lamp. And my printer sat for a couple weeks.Thats when i started having my issue. I ordered a new boden tube. I also noticed my tube at the extruder end was moving back and forth. I guess the lock needs to be replaced. Again great video thank you

  • @goldengamer8510
    @goldengamer8510 4 ปีที่แล้ว +24

    Imagine actually getting a wrench that fits your nozzle, couldn't be me. Ender 3 pro real 10/10

    • @GodShrimp
      @GodShrimp 4 ปีที่แล้ว

      6mm. My nozzle broke though...

    • @ethanc5758
      @ethanc5758 4 ปีที่แล้ว

      Had to use needle nose pliers cuz the ones that came with mine would burn my hands

    • @weld4200
      @weld4200 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Mine came with 2

    • @goldengamer8510
      @goldengamer8510 3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      @@weld4200 dang now i know where mine went lol

    • @weld4200
      @weld4200 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@goldengamer8510 wouldnt surprise me honestly . im new 2 all this ..idk a good print from a bad or perfect one . idk wat any of the settings means or anything .. Im a welder by trade im wiling to learn . bashed my nozzle to the mag bed replaced the bed . now my extruder skips no clue why. Not sure if my bed is level but i got it 2 print . first layer is near see thru .. I also feel like my glass bed is warpped 2

  • @Jesterdoggie
    @Jesterdoggie 5 ปีที่แล้ว +5

    Great video, but if you happen to see this, when I pushed the bowden tube down the heat block lowered about and inch. I'm gonna assume this bad so might you be able to lend assistance as to how I correct this. Thanks

    • @NorthernKitty
      @NorthernKitty 4 ปีที่แล้ว

      Since I'm replying about 8 months later, I suspect you already solved the problem. But my first question when I saw your post is.. is there any chance the screws from the heater block to the heat sink had been removed? That's the only reason I can think of offhand that your heat block could slip like that. Some people were giving bad advice a while back suggesting those screws be removed to help reduce "heat creep", even suggesting they were "only there for shipping", which is a myth that has since been busted. Those screws are intentionally there to help secure things where they're supposed to be (to prevent a problem like you describe), and while the heat sink DOES heat up a little QUICKER with the screws in place than without them, the temperature of the heat sink DOESN'T actually get any hotter as a result.

  • @dadcrafted
    @dadcrafted 4 ปีที่แล้ว

    Thanks so much for this video! Was in a spot of frustration where I was about to give up but I'm printing clean again!

  • @danman32
    @danman32 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    One thing that is rarely discussed and not discussed here is the relationship between the nozzle, heat block and heat break.
    I didn't know originally but figured out that the heat break screws into the heat block. What I've come to understand is that the heat break should screw into the block all the way, or at least have it bottom out against the nozzle, having the nozzle only far enough in that there's a small gap between the nozzle face on the thread side and the heat block.
    So you would be tightening the nozzle as far as it would go so it seats against the heat break, then back it off so you can set up some squeeze pressure against the bowden tube.
    Another approach some give to apply the tube pressure is to instead loosen the bowden tube coupler, push the tube all the way down, then tighten the coupler.
    Do I have that all correct or is the heat break actually supposed to be loose in the block and not touching the base of the nozzle threading?
    I just get so many problems with eSun PLA+, particularly stringing and blabbing even at its lowest recommended temp of 205c

  • @valentinsarmagal
    @valentinsarmagal ปีที่แล้ว

    thanks, i had forgotten to install the screw that keeps the temp sensor in place

  • @tigerzero5216
    @tigerzero5216 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    At 13:35 The wiring on my fairly new Creality 3 pro, (given to me 2 months ago), does NOT have that braided insulation around the wires to the heater block. I have knowledge about wires/current flow. If you have that braided insulation, I don't think it's there due to the wire getting hot from electric current flow. It's most likely a wear protection thing.

  • @JetsetRM
    @JetsetRM 5 ปีที่แล้ว +4

    Worked perfectly for my nozzle and bowden replacement. Thanks!

  • @jakkle4286
    @jakkle4286 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    The dragon on the thumbnail couldn't be placed any better🤣🤣🤣

  • @cb379
    @cb379 9 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Tip for cutting the bowden tube
    Insert a piece of filament into the tube and then use your side cutters ... because the tube is now essentially solid, not hollow, it cuts cleanly without distorting and going oval

  • @u2bist
    @u2bist ปีที่แล้ว

    I just got a teensy pipe cutter like this because a friend's bathroom pipes were too close to the wall to use my normal pipe cutter. Didn't occur to me I could also use it to trim bowden tubing!

  • @cathyzampogna1200
    @cathyzampogna1200 5 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    I followed all of your steps. I even got a special tool to cut the tubing straight. When I put it all back together it works for a bit and then clogs again. I finally got a print going before and came back to find the printer piece up high but nothing had been printed after the first few layers. Any ideas on why it keeps clogging? I am at a loss. Thank you!

    • @nothanks7752
      @nothanks7752 5 ปีที่แล้ว

      Have you changed filament brands/type recently? I've found that I've had a few brands/spools that clog a lot.

    • @cathyzampogna1200
      @cathyzampogna1200 5 ปีที่แล้ว

      It has happened with 2 different filaments.

    • @mentalcrypto
      @mentalcrypto 5 ปีที่แล้ว

      Hey did you fix that issue ?

  • @roadstar499
    @roadstar499 4 ปีที่แล้ว

    very good video... e is have done this maany times... one thing is to also make sure when you hand tighten new nozzle is to make sure it seats on heat break tube and there some small gap left so when you do your final tighten it seats well against tube and not your block...and of coarse relevel...

    • @donangel5640
      @donangel5640 4 ปีที่แล้ว

      Should have mentioned re-levelling at end of video. Even if seated on the heater block, variability of Nozzle dimensions will affect clearance to the bed.

  • @BMathiesen
    @BMathiesen 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    This is the best video ever. So much solid great information

  • @leptoon
    @leptoon 4 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Extremely helpful video, thank you!!!

  • @varez1
    @varez1 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    I replaced my nozzle before watching this video. I've made a lot of pressure on the hotend without stabilizing it. Should I replace whole hotend now for safety reasons and don't even try to run this again?

    • @10bz6d6
      @10bz6d6 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      I did this once too before watching this video. Luckily mine didn't break and I've followed the correct procedure since then. If you aren't experiencing any problems while printing I think you don't have to replace it.

    • @danman32
      @danman32 2 ปีที่แล้ว

      I would concur. If nothing is broken, everything seems aligned after correcting for the mistake, it will be ok.

  • @BabakRezai
    @BabakRezai 4 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    What pliers are you using to hold the heat block? They look better than vice grips for this use case.

  • @primal5435
    @primal5435 ปีที่แล้ว

    If you are not supposed to tighten the thermistor screw, what prevents it from falling out from all the vibrations and movement?
    Shouldn't it be tighten down some what tight, but not enough to break the plastic protecting the wire inside?

  • @SinnerD2010
    @SinnerD2010 4 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    So I pretty sure I have a clog, trying to follow this video but I cannot get the bowden tube out of the cupler at the hotend side, I've pulled and pulled...
    its a CR10. any ideas?

    • @kustomkool
      @kustomkool 4 ปีที่แล้ว

      Are you heating it up first? I had the same issue. You might need a bit of force but be careful.

  • @tigerzero5216
    @tigerzero5216 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    I watched the video. It helps.
    I need help. How I got here. After much work I successfully printed the Hairy Lion. (There are hints of under excursion in the lower half of the sacrificial wall. The body looks fantastic). I started a second one. .. Under excursion/tearing happened on the wall about 6-8 mm into it. Why? I did here some chucking noise from the filament feed motor. Could it be it is loosing grip on the filament? Clogged gear or clogged path? How do you truly fix it. I'm probably going to clean the gear at least. Test. If a fail? Then replace the boden tube and the nozzle again.
    I may have that gap between the boden tube and the nozzle as said by Tomb. Suff that needs to be cleared out before the next fitting. ... How is that done? Maybe take the print nozzle off and push the boden tube through it all? That could mash PLA into the nozzle threads. What to do?

  • @markmerberger7997
    @markmerberger7997 4 ปีที่แล้ว

    Had to change my first nozzle made it so easy from this video Thank You Very Much !

  • @AnimalStomper
    @AnimalStomper 5 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    That has to be the most random name for a youtube channel i have ever heard. Well done sir.

  • @ShopperPlug
    @ShopperPlug ปีที่แล้ว

    2:53 - Wouldn't it be better to use a special high-heat resistant thermoplastic for the heat break? As you explain it's main purpose is to prevent heat transfer and I'm assuming that it's also used to guide the filament into the nozzle, with that said some common thermoplastic could be used which can withstand high temperature and have super low thermal conductivity... IDK if lowering the thermal conductivity is overkill or even needed as compared to common heat breaks used today... 5:00 - Great explanation., the wire contains a thermocouple.

  • @swfinley
    @swfinley 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    The link to the tube cutter is broken. Can you provide an updated link (or cutter recommendation)? Thanks again for your excellent videos!

  • @larsjensen4908
    @larsjensen4908 4 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    I have followed your guide and ended up with a leaking nozzle. You need to make sure that your new nozzle get tight together with the heat-block-pipe and not your bowden tube. If your hot-end is feeling "loose" there is most likely a leak in your hot-end and you might see filament dripping down elsewhere than from the nozzle tip. when the nozzle is tighten, remember to check is there is a gap between the heater block and the shoulder of the nozzle!

  • @mickeyrietveld3808
    @mickeyrietveld3808 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Amazing video, best information video if ever seen

  • @LuzHernandez-vx9ri
    @LuzHernandez-vx9ri ปีที่แล้ว

    This was very useful. I was able to clean and replace the clogged nozzle and Bowden tube. Although, my print looks much better, I continue to have a line of under extrusion - approximately 1/2 inch from the base of the print. I have replaced parts several times but continue to have this problem. Any suggestions?

  • @MrWaldorfian
    @MrWaldorfian 8 หลายเดือนก่อน

    When you have the nozzle off, should the heat break be clear? I can't see thru it from the top. I would think it should be clear thru at this point. If not, is the heat break still clogged?

  • @dancingpianofairy
    @dancingpianofairy 5 ปีที่แล้ว

    I have a CR-10S instead of an Ender, but I think everything relevant looks the same and hopefully this is exactly what I need. Thanks!

  • @aryah1513
    @aryah1513 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    QUESTION: Can you give a list of common damages caused by noobism and how to check for them?
    I've had a few things happen that have me a bit worried my recent print issues are a result of damage.
    1) I leveled once, and thought I don't have to level again unless I move the printer or something. When I came to level again, I realized my bed was way too high. There's even a copper streak accross it. Looks like the nozzle has definitely scraped accross the bed before.
    2) I've had print issues go unnoticed for long periods of time and when I come back there's a big blob of hot plastic caked around my nozzle. When I pulled it off the silicone bumpers around the nozzle were out of position and they sorta feel loose ever since.
    3) I was trying to pull a blob of plastic off the nozzle and accidentally grabbed and pulled on the black silicone bumpers on either side of the nozzle. What do they do? Do they need replacement if damaged?

    • @danman32
      @danman32 2 ปีที่แล้ว

      The silicone sock is only there to reduce surface area that stray filament can stick to. Easily comes off and on.
      If the sock is torn, may want to replace it.
      If there's melted filament on the heat block or nozzle preventing the sock from properly fitting, clean them off while block/nozzle is heated.

    • @danman32
      @danman32 2 ปีที่แล้ว

      Oh, and since you had the bed that close to the nozzle, replace the nozzle, being sure your tube is snug against the base of the nozzle.
      I would suggest getting an automatic bed leveler such as a CR-Touch. Once you get the z-offset right, you can never get the nozzle into the bed since z measurements are relative to bed rather than frame.

  • @maryrainswaterhouse917
    @maryrainswaterhouse917 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    How did you raise the arm to give space to work on the heater? My arm locks when my printer is on or off. My tivo tornado releases when it is off, but this printer does not.

  • @k3ith1
    @k3ith1 5 ปีที่แล้ว

    Wow - there are some videos that have this procedure completely wrong and I paid for it. This is a late comment but thanks a lot for the clear explanation.

    • @EmmettMontanaro
      @EmmettMontanaro 5 ปีที่แล้ว

      Yep same here, now I got to wait a couple days for some new thermistors but hopefully the micro swiss that caused me to break the 1st thermistor will be worth it.

    • @k3ith1
      @k3ith1 5 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@EmmettMontanaro I did the same thing, cranked down on the thermometer screw. I had bad readings but was able to back it off and it was ok. Good luck with yours.

  • @gdanieltube
    @gdanieltube 5 หลายเดือนก่อน

    I have an Ender-5. I have been unable to get the Bowden tube out, it seems to be stuck. You say depress some couplers to get the Bowden tube out, I don't see any couplers. I unscrewed the connectors that the Bowden tube feeds into. Also, I cannot get the cover off. It looks like there are two screws holding it on, but there are also some fans attached. The cover won't come off.

  • @rmclean101
    @rmclean101 5 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Great video, thank you! After a recent print went wonky, there seems to be under-extrusion issues and I'm thinking it's a partial blockage...I wasn't sure if that can happen. I though it would either be blocked completely or not, but it's worth looking at :)

  • @kavonkandles4010
    @kavonkandles4010 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    How doe you get the tube out? I do not have a push down connection. My tube had the filaments stuck in it. I cannot get the tube. I have an ender 6. Thank you.

  • @SteinerSE
    @SteinerSE 6 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Do you by any chance have a video on nozzle sixzes, pros/cons, uses for varying sizes?

    • @Tombof3DPrintedHorrors
      @Tombof3DPrintedHorrors  6 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      I have one planned, should be out before the end of the year. :)

  • @NorthernKitty
    @NorthernKitty 4 ปีที่แล้ว

    Just curious as to why not remove the Bowden tube and the fan shroud BEFORE heating the nozzle? Thereby reducing the risk of burning your fingers. Also wondering if, after removing the nozzle, it might be a good time to check and make sure there's no blockage in the heat break? This is a great "how-to", very much appreciated as I'm starting to think it's time to change my print nozzle for the first time! (Some quality degradation in prints).

  • @DrewBaye
    @DrewBaye 4 ปีที่แล้ว

    I don't know if the bowden tube wasn't seated correctly, but I had a clog, and when tried to remove the bowden tube it took a lot of force. It looks like the heat sink is full of melted PLA. Any way to clean it out, or do I have to replace that, too?

  • @The_Wosh
    @The_Wosh 4 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    I'm trying to change my nozzle because I think it's clogged, but it just won't move, if I apply more force I feel like I'm going to break something or slip and burn my hand

  • @ismaelreyna5399
    @ismaelreyna5399 6 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    If I'm installing a hardened steel nozzle that has a slightly shorter length (the part with the threads), do I push the bowden tube deeper into the heat block to compensate for that lack of length?

  • @salamaneinglorion5956
    @salamaneinglorion5956 5 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Great video, made the nozzle replacement process much clearer! However, I hate the fiddliness of pushing the Bowden tube down into the back of the nozzle. Would replacing the stock hot-end with an all-metal hot-end eliminate that bit? Is there any downside (other than cost) to using an all-metal hot-end when mostly running PLA+?

    • @guineapig6582
      @guineapig6582 2 ปีที่แล้ว

      Yes all metal hotend ftw

  • @WickedCrispy
    @WickedCrispy 5 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    I see a whole bunch of different nozzle shapes, sizes, and materials out there. Is there any benefit to trying a steel adapter? Do they use brass because it transfers heat easier? Or are there other reasons?

  • @MrDee195
    @MrDee195 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    I have a bl touch upgrade on ender 3 pro, can not raise gantry, I can lower it but once lowered, it will not move. I have disabled the steppers via CPU. BTW excellent video.

  • @josemines-l1p
    @josemines-l1p 3 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Im not sure you mentioned it but i noticed you removed the filament before changing the nozzle?
    Also, my printer does not use a Bowden tube, does the mean i can just remove the nozzle and screw it back up without doing loosing up the nozzle 3/4 of turn to insert the Bowden tube and simply tight the nozzle?

  • @Wesleystewart78
    @Wesleystewart78 ปีที่แล้ว

    After dealing with constant clogs on my ender 3 I gave up and did the Luke's fix kept getting partial clogs due to the tube not being flush to the nozzle no matter what I tried it would only work for a print or two at most

  • @jonmirel3342
    @jonmirel3342 ปีที่แล้ว

    if i want to change to .6mm do i need to change the bowden on a direct drive, only wanna do it to save time on prints.

  • @jackmchenry4576
    @jackmchenry4576 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Love the intro... epic.

  • @jahanplayz2508
    @jahanplayz2508 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    how to fix underextrusion

  • @gavinlipscombe9706
    @gavinlipscombe9706 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    You look like you are using Parallel pliers to hold the hot end, is that correct? What size so you use?

  • @nathanwest2304
    @nathanwest2304 ปีที่แล้ว

    I'm new to 3D printing and recently bought a Renkforce Basic 3, it's a store brand printer from the "Conrad" store.
    I have an issue with under extrusion apperantly, by about 20%, that is very consistent with benchies and a various number of other parts I printed
    this printer has the MK10 hot end where you got a plastic bowden tube to the top going stright in to the pipe in the cold end, then inside the pipe is a piece of 2x3mm teflon tube between the cold end and the hot end inside the heatbrake.
    the "problem" I'm having is that the filament will always melt about 22mm far inside the teflon tube, basically all the way inside the hot end up to the heat brake.
    is that normal?
    if not, is there any way to fix that?
    are there any good upgrades I can do to that hotend or replace it with a better one?
    or should I just get a better 3D printer?
    I also have some issues with warping, like, significantly, even with perfect bed adhesion the part will apperantly lift the flexible magnetic bed up

  • @jessesheehan4051
    @jessesheehan4051 5 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    you are a genius at knowing what idiots (like me) are going to do wrong lol. thanks for all the great advice!

    • @Tombof3DPrintedHorrors
      @Tombof3DPrintedHorrors  5 ปีที่แล้ว

      I'm an idiot too, I just have already made all the mistakes myself LOL