Quick and Easy Extruder Upgrade on Ender 3 V2
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ส.ค. 2021
- Chuck had an issue with his Creality Ender 3 V2. It was leaving plastic shavings on the Extruder Gear and Pulley. He shows you the root cause and then step by step how to fix it with a metal extruder replacement. See it all on this week's Filament Friday.
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Lot of people want dual gear. I covered that here: th-cam.com/video/QnrH2Sk7y40/w-d-xo.html
Did they ever fix the spring tension issue on that extruder?
Anyone buying the dual gear make sure you buy the official Creality one instead of the WINSINN one as it is so much better built and doesn't wear itself away.
@@infernaldaedra I upgraded to a metal one. Had spring tension issues so I went with a dual gear.
I switched to dual gear and am basically counting down the days to when its going to give me problems. Every print theres shredded metal dust building up there. I might have to switch to this metal one instead.
@@Devgal89 If you use the dual gear extruder use the weaker extruder spring not the orange compression style.
As a 3D printing newbie with an ender 3 v2, you have really helped me understand how printers work and how to fix several issues that can be major roadblocks in my 3d printing journey. Thank you so much for making these videos.
Just a note to anyone who does this having filament beaking of jamming issues after upgrading. Use your stock plastic extruder spring for the lever it's shorter and slightly softer, switching back fixed prints for me where there were lots of retractions in a short period. This issue took ages for me to isolate only thanks to an Amazon reviewer.
Man I was upgrading my Ender 3 V2 to this Creality metal extruder and came back home my nozzle printing in air because this aggressively gripping update and lots of retractions cut the filament in half, then I had to replace my bowden with a PTFE Capricorn tube because filament got stuck inside. Somehow the springs I got with my old plastic one and the one from the metal upgrade seem exactly the same though? I mean both are from Creality AFAIK. Any tips? I don't want to run it with the new Capricorn tube and have the filament cut in half again, I wish we could tweak that tension more precisely.. super annoying.
I am currently even considering bringing it to a somehow working state and finally giving it all up/selling it for Prusa MK3s..
@@armaganvideos If you're using an enclosure I'd advise against it as the aluminum extruder gets hotter making filament softer and easier to break. The stock spring was visually shorter for me side by side
Been running this exact extruder upgrade for over a year. Still doing fine. Worth the money.
Maybe I’m a backwards thinker but I am happy with the product creality pushes out the door. It got me a cheap printer that worked right out the box. Ofcorse there was room for improvement but in my case made a 3D printer much more achievable. Plus making the upgrades at my own pace taught me a lot about the printer and printers in general
I purchased this kit about a yr ago and works flawlessly. Great upgrade.
Been running my E3 V2 almost continuously for 6 months now, still on the original setup. Never seen that grinding & idler arm is still perfect.
Chuck, I just watched this video. It was deja vu because I changed mine last year on my Ender 3. I didn't have the flaking of filament issue, I was seeing filament slippage at the gear. As you said, it was an easy upgrade with much sturdier parts. I just took my time and paid attention to the way I disassembled the original pieces. It's been operating fine ever since.
Just wanted to drop by to say thanks Chep! Used your video to change out my plastic extruder to the aluminum before I ever did the first print! Your videos are very informational and concise!
the PTFE cutter guide is awesome! so useful!
Literally just bought and assembled my ender 3 v2 two days ago and had the same issue. Thank you for much for a detailed install view.
I just had the arm crack on the plastic one after the first week of printing. they should have addressed this when the original ender 3 was their only 3 series printer. It's shocking that they have continued to do so for so long.
The plastic extruder is crap, its gone last almost a year or less, but yuo can changet it, i put a titan clone and works very well
@Carl Coetzee Hey , could you link that video? I'm having trouble figuring out which one it is. Also having trouble with TPU at the extruder. Thanks!
The best option is the EZR Extruder which handles all filaments including TPU. th-cam.com/video/1GNDxvxpWr8/w-d-xo.html
They're trying to make these things as affordable as possible and leaving it up to the user to decide what they need and at what point they need it.
I was printing something yesterday after a long time and noticed mine was doing the same. Great timing. Thank you.
Just started using my Ender 3 V2. Your videos have helped so much. Thanks
Just orders one for my Ender 5. I like the way this one tensions the spring. I already replaced my plastic thing one but for a little over $10, this is worth it. Thanks!
Thank you for the help!
Thanks for these directions! I had shavings in my E3 V2 as well. The hole wasn't directly mis-drilled, but it was not perfectly round. Another issue I found was the arm (with the spring) when I removed it was cracked from the bushing all the way back to the arm it's mounted in, and a small piece had come detached and fell out when I removed the arm to replace it. May have happened in original shipping perhaps, or just cracked under the pressure, being plastic and all.
I had this problem but I replaced the extruder mount a few weeks ago after the plastic one actually broke. When I saw this video pop up I ran to check and, sure enough, there weren't any shavings on top of the gear! It's my first printer so I figured the shavings were either normal or I was doing something wrong. Thanks for the video!
Edit to say, I also had my Y-Axis belt break only a few weeks after I got it. In replacing that I found that they had completely reamed one of the screws that held the Y tensioner in place! I had to cut the head of the screw off with a hack saw, file it smooth and flipped the bar over to remount the Y tensioner in the clean holes on the other side. I was not impressed with their QC on that one either.
I had basically the same problem on my Ender 3 Pro. This was my first printer so it took me a while to figure out. Also, the arm broke on the plastic extruder eventually. I replaced with the exact same Al model that you show in this video and have had no issues since.
I love this channel, wish I found it sooner. Thank you for the FF super fast print profile, it's been great for flat / simple projects with minimal infill.
I just swapped the metal extruder into my ender 3 pro and there was a little bit of stringing and fibrousy dust in on top of the stepper, but no extra hole. so, possibly just a not-so-great brass insert to begin with. The brass gear was worn down as well, which is hard to understand.
Good to know. Thanks. I installed the same on my Ender-3 Pro and Ender-3 v2
The only video where someone actually uses the sping tensionner properly! thank you
I just bought a ender 3 v2, I have no idea of getting best of Cura or my printer, I'm loving your channel so far, good explanations and really useful tips and guide. THANK YOU.
Was going to give up and switch to a direct driver extruder when I saw this video and saw that my plastic extrusion clip was cracked. Followed your directions and everything works great. Keep up the good work.
Superb video, first thing that I did when I got my V2 was change the extruder for an aluminium one anyway, I will check my old extruder to see if it has that problem though. My V2 with the bed leveling probe is so reliable, I don't even have to watch the first layer go down because I know it will be perfect I also use bed spray on every print, it's simply print, walk away and come back when you hear the finish beep.
Perfect! Thank You!
Just bought an ender 3 a month ago and I get this issue with certain pla. Thanks for the video! I was worried it was just me and I thought I'd have to live with the problem
My friend! I´m very happy! thanks to your video I just changed my plastic CR6 SE extruder for the same metal one as yours and now it's printing super nice! had no idea all that plastic shaving were inside as the CR6 SE extruder is closed. Plastic on the top was cracked and started to give me crappy prints with extrusion problems.
A lot of the time, I find the teeth on their toothed gear to be aggressive and will cause those shavings as well. Swapping to a more traditional extruder gear that's better engineered helps.
Those plastic extruders often like to warp/bend, causing inconsistent extrusion, so upgrading to the aluminum ones is almost a must in my opinion.
My Ender 3 V2 came with the plastic extruder. About 2 months worth of printing and then the arm broke so that the bearing wheel wasn't pressing the filament up against the gear. The replacement I purchased looked like the one shown in this video. It has worked perfectly and actually the filament loads easier.
another great video!
Having same problem thought had tension to tight took apart a bam same issue. Ordered new one and a fancy new CHEP bed leveler 😉. Thank you for all your help and wonderful tips and tricks.
Thank you CHEP for this video, I was having problems with the gear on the extruder coming loose after cleaning and trimming my bowden tube and replacing the gear with a new one and new grub screws. I ran a 3 hour print only to find out the grub screws had loosened up and allowed the extruder gear to raise up and stopped feeding filament. All said and done I found your video and also inverted the brass extruder gear to match yours plus I added loc-tite to ensure no backing out. Again thank you for sharing.
Great video Chuck, I replaced my extruder when I got mine with an aluminum one right away. Ironically I have shavings happening on the new aluminum one I have now so I will check it for burs or miss drilling.
Thanks for sharing. 👍🏻
Knowing how bad the original extruders were, I replaced my stock one with that same aluminum one (Creality) that you installed. Hundreds of prints later and it still works perfectly. No shavings and every time I check the e-steps it’s still spot on. And you’re right, these Ender 3 v2’s should just ship with the aluminum ones…
My Ender 3 Pro came with a defective one too. I ordered and installed the same Extruder. Love the silver.
Great video.
And yes, I'm more of a dualgear head.
Thanks for sharing your experience with all of us 👍😀
Thank you for this video :)
Great video Chuck, thank you. It seems not just extruder issues, one of my crimped connections broke after a few months, Creality custumer support is dire, having asked for help they told me to contact where I purchased it from, I wasn't claiming on warranty just to buy.
I replaced several parts due to poor workmanship or parts; extruder, hot end, fan, X axis cable set. For performance; bowden tube, springs, moved switch to right had side front, (wireman/electronics tech by trade).
Thanks old man, this vid helped alot.
Pretty interesting indeed, Chuck! Seems like they screwed up this time. 😬
Luckily it's a easy fix.
Thanks for the video! 😊
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
I did this replacement because the stock plastic one broke within a few days. That's crazy how that was drilled incorrectly and they just used it anyway. I also find this extruder to be better than the red dual gear extruder. I had nothing but inaccurate extruding even after calibrating my e steps multiple times. I went back to this one.
Yes when I was changing mine I saw the plastic one cracking. I am glad that I got the aluminum one.
Great video, as always, Chuck. I've replaced the extruder on my Ender 3 Max, replaced the Bowden tube with Capricorn, cleaned out the hot end, and replaced the nozzle, but I'm still getting slippage and clicking when printing into free air (eliminating the issue with the nozzle being too close to the bed). Any ideas, anyone? How does one adjust the spring tension to ensure it is correct? Might this being misadjusted cause the slippage? Another note, putting the drive gear on "upside down" makes it a LOT easier to retighten should it come loose, and that's also the way my Ender 3 Max and my 3 other Creality printers have the gear installed on the motor shaft.
Totally worth the investment on this upgrade kit. The one that came with my printer broke after printing the first 1kg of PLA
My ender 3 v2 also had a cheap plastic extruder lever that cracked. Thanks for this video!
Will be checking mine when it arrives to see if this needs addressing
Once I upgraded to micro Swiss all metal direct drive and calibrated my e steps; I never looked back or had feeding issues again.
Absolutely had the exact same problem and actually upgraded to the same extruder about a month ago.
Thanks
Thank you I'm gonna do this now
I had to buy a new extruder because the one it came with didn’t have metal nut (or teeth for one) to hold the Bowden tube in place it came with a cheap plastic piece that didn’t let you easily remove the filament. So naturally I broke it 😅. I just got the same extruder you have in this video so hopefully it works out. Thanks for the tutorial!
I have that exact same problem. There's a microcenter about 15 mins from where I live I'm gonna go pick one up asap! Mine looks way more severe. A lot more shavings.
my plastic just snapped in half and orderd a new one. im just glad chep is always here for me and my printer lol
I'll note that said kit also fits on the CR-6SE, if one is tired of taking the plastic covered one apart and futzing with getting it put back after clearing jams.
I had an extremely similar fault to yours, I ended up fitting the dual gear version but your comments to Creality are spot on. I added up today that I have spent almost 30% of the cost of a new E3 fixing manufacturers faults. Come on Creality get it right!
They'd have to put the price up!
@@rorywquin Poor design is never an excuse to price something high.
Oh, man, I just had my relatively new Ender 3 v2 start having serious issues with prints, and I finally traced it to the extruder. I had seen the shavings, figured that was just from the black filament I was using. I’m an engineer, so I know how to troubleshoot, but I kept seeing how to unclog your hot end, or underextrusion issues (which this kinda is, but nothing took a close look at the stock extruder).
Anyway, thank you so much for providing an answer. Sadly, too late to get a few Xmas presents printed (a lego Stormtrooper toilet paper roll holder!) before the date, but I’ve ordered the replacement extruder and should get it soonish. Subbed, thumbed, and happy.
After watching this video I'm going to pick one of these kits up at micro center on my way home. I have tons of shavings, and my prints went from perfect to garbage overnight, all I get is thin ball of filament accumulating at the nozzle when trying to print, even the purge line doesn't come out most of the time. This has to be the problem.
Mine only lasted two weeks and when I got the duel gear extruder from amazon, I found out that my ender 3's estep motor has a shorter shaft and a pressed on gear! I barely have it together now pumping out cookie cutters!
I had 3 holes in my E3 v2 that weren't supposed to be there. 2 wrong in frame, 1 in a coupler (like yours). The _brass insert_ to "protect" the extruder plastic arm went within a month...and they sold me the "special LASER package" *attached by magnet* . (Guys v2 case is made of plastic ;-). - 1st mail to them (I bought direct !) was left unanswered for 2 weeks. Follow ups insisted on VIDEO to SHOW FACT. No pics. _gave up_
*CREALITY* is nothing without the COMMUNITY! So thanks CHEP and "you million" for the bargain thanks to you it is...
(BTW: *SOVOL* sold: metal extruder, coupler &screws, yellow springs, org.label *CAPRICON* blue tube with flyer - all CREALITY LABEL for 12.95$ ;-)
@ the 3:43 mark I just want to point out something. If you look at the old handle and the new one you will see the aluminum one doesn't have a brass insert were you load filament. After two months of using a glow in the dark filament it wore a grove in the handle. I suggest putting a brass insert there or some tubing to prevent ware.
This was extremely helpful. But I really wish you just told us how exactly the gear was upside down at the start instead of having us install the entire thing. the small screws provided became stripped while i was trying to remove them again and now i’m not sure how to go about this.
Same, why didn’t he edit that part before we did it wrong too?? Ugh.
Just replaced it with the metal one. No visible issues with the plastic one it printed fine. I wanted to try the Capricorn tubing and it was only $5 more to get a kit that also has the metal extruder, better bed springs, and 2 spare hot end socks. It skipped at first but just needed to tweak the tension and it's printing great. I didn't replace the gear because mine is pressed on and I will need to devise a puller.
Definitely interesting to see if this was a rare case of poor QC, or if they made the same mistake with 1000's of these
Or CHEP drilled the hole himself to make a video. The way these things are made seems really unlikely they could be miss drilled.
@@backgammonbacon lol its Creality lucky it works at all, they are hopless with QC. the enders with work are good
Both of my V2s do this
@@backgammonbacon CREALITY *QC* ...in Software *NON EXIST* ...in Hardware "impossible" mistakes -it's all *COMMUNITY*
@@reinholdu9909 english please?
i was having some issues of the bowden screw not holding in the ptfe tube, and it kept slipping out. this immediately fixed it. thanks!
GUYS PUT IT ON UPSIDE DOWN THEY DID IT ON PURPOSE!!!! I flipped mine the “correct way” and the screw would hit the metal making it not spin, it took me a while to figure out and the headache of taking it apart again. Also loved the video Chep 😉
I don't get how it's upside down. The instructions say to put it the original way he put it.
I replaced the plastic parts on my 1st printer the OG ender 3. After seeing the improvement I ordered the metal extruder for my CR-10s before it arrived.
Would you ever please cover a DIY heated enclosure?. Or any suggestions to print ABS or high temperature filaments without warping?
Hard to build a budget enclosure that isn't a fire hazard. Have you looked at the creality-type ones? I got an Ender 5 sized one for my Ender 3. Otherwise my tip for ABS is PRINT ON PEI, I have a powder PEI sheet and prints stick like glue when hot and self-release when cooled.
Yeah my stock plastic extruder failed room replacing it now. For the record, it did work fine for a few months and it only failed after a spool of filament had a jam. The spool was feeding out of a dryer when it jammed and the extruder picked the whole thing up off the floor so it was just hanging there. I was fighting Underextrusion for the rest of the print which got worse with each layer.
Thanks for posting this. Mine came with no instructions at all. I appreciate your videos, they are very helpful.
Nice thanks for the video , same problem not as bad as yours but Same issue, helped alot
Is the extruder coupling PC4-M10 with this kit? (also Chuck your ender 3 v2 playlist has some other unrelated videos in it)
Hi Chuck. Great channel and information you share. I have a question on the time Cura suggests it will take to print when sliced and the actual time it takes on my Ender3 V2. I am not sure all the information you would need to make a suggestion? Cura suggests 7hrs and then the Ender takes 15 plus hrs to print the part. I have upgrade to the dual gear drive and adjust to the 100mm as suggest in your other video for adjusting feed. Using the stock nozzle that came with the printer. Hope you can help. Jeff, OPPS, I just found your video on Cura 4.2.1 and need to watch it to see if you have a fix there, I have Cura 4.10.0
My old extruder had the shavings. Since replaced it. Looked under the coupling. No extra hole. It looks fine.
Installed the aluminum extruder but still getting the shavings. In my case may be older PLA? Will see when I get my new PLA spool on. But the prints are fine.
Same. After puting all these upgrades to replace plastic parts I may as well have gone with a better more expensive model.
Mine broke at two months. I didn’t notice it at first and tried multiple fixes that were posted online for filament not extruding. Then I noticed the plastic arm had broken in half. The extruded was easy to replace except on the Ender 3 Pro, they crimp on the gear to the motor. I had to buy a new motor also.
I've got shavings😬. Going to take apart the plastic one tomorrow.
My extruder looked fine. No production issues. I think my gears are slipping and causing shavings. I probably need to slow down retraction. I'm upgrading to Capricorn and metal extruder tomorrow though. I ordered it after realizing how easy it was to disassemble.
I also replaced mine with an aluminum one. The old one was plastic and broken. I have an Ender 3 pro. Less and less filament came out of the nozzle. It took me a while to find out that the plastic extruder was broken. It was almost impossible to see. The extruder started to slip and made a clicking sound.
Installing this kit today on my E3 V2 and the instructions that came with mine show the gear set screws on the top like you originally had it. The older instructions must have been misprinted, not that it probably matters a whole lot.
Make sure the single bolt holding the pivot arm of the new extruder isn't too tight! I found it to be ok with faster print speeds of less retraction, but had many issues with slower prints using more retraction. I came to my own conclusions that the continual feeding and retraction of filament in roughly the same area would actually fatigue the filament causing it to plastically deform the as a result of the extruder teeth grabbing too tightly. This then lead to the filament breaking inside the extruder prints simply failing
I had this too, I used the stock tension spring from the plastic extruder to fix it, it's shorter and a little weaker!
My Aquila didn't have this problem. It's out printed and been very reliable so far, much more so than my Prusa Mini printers which are going back to Czech land for warranty
I have the same issue with the Ender 3 pro at the library I work at. The problem never really presented itself until I started running PLA + through it...
got the upgraded extruder with the ender 3 pro at least 2 1/2- 3 years ago.. that plastic one shouldn't even be on there. Might think about getting a Filament Dryer. They make a 100% difference in print, especially if you print with PLA. I was hesitant at first, but got a 2nd version one with a built in fan, and it would help with that flaking off or filament that absorbs moisture. Most do.
My CR10S Pro came with all metal one, but weirdly enough my E5+ had this lousy plastic one, it broke after a week, luckily then I already had my direct setup already on the way so I changed it
I agree fully that the printers on the market should never be sold with these plastic ones, at least with the metal ones, or giving a option to change it to the dual gear one instead of this metal one
Yeah I'm changing mine right now. I couldn't get it to get tight enough to pull the filament in. I agree, it should come with that from the factory. I'm hoping it also make feeding the filament in to the extruder. The plastic one was a pain in the ass to feed
FYI for anyone with a newer ender 3 model...the extruder stepper motor has a press fit gear on the shaft. Its also shorter and has no flat edge to fit a new gear onto. Basically if you want to buy an upgraded aluminum extruder, you need to get a new nema stepper motor.
Pretty sure I've seen an extruder gear puller on thingiverse for that..if the gear was put on, it can be taken off :)
@@cmdrw9855 I thought there was also the issue of the aluminum extruder sitting higher. Which means the gear has to be set higher on the shaft. Again I thought this was an issue for the original stepper motor but maybe not
I have bought the replacement for when mine does stuff up but at present, it is ok with the plastic arm. I am still a newbie and getting my printer dialed in... I enjoy your clear and consise videos without all the bullshit at the start and crappy music. Thanks a lot .. I have watched several of your videos and have subed to you.
Mine just broke today. It wasn't feeding anything about halfway through my prints. Luckily my wife bought the Ender 3 Pro that included this extra Extruder kit. Thanks, honey!
Yep, got mine 12 days ago and saw this on day 2. Actually broke filaments in middle of print. Moving spool to the side helped with the breaking but still having shavings. Know a way to read the serial number to get a build date?
Maybe yuo have too much tension on the spring , i remember i need to do that when im printing in petg, the i change to a titan extruder
That was exactly the same one I used for my Ender 3 Pro, first thing I changed as I got the printer, the plastic one felt like a toy
I've had that issue with the old plastic extruder. Changed to a dual gear extruder.
I need help I need to get a new extruder . I was thinking of a dual gear .
If you had a choice. Would you pick the micro Swiss or 3Dman Dual Drive ?
Chep, thanks for the video and I'm now subscribed! I found it after I installed the new metal extruder replacement. No matter what I do the pulley will not help with advancement of filament but moves fine with retraction, etc. When I pinch the arm the pulley moves freely and is not too tight. I checked for clogging in the nozzle and it's just fine. I've tried adjusting the spring, arm and the pulley screw but nothing it working and the pulley does not move with normal gear movement. I had the same issue with the stock gear and pulley that came with my Ender 3 and that's why I decided to change to the metal version. Any thoughts or suggestions?
I have replaced the extruders on all my machines that had plastic. Every one was slipping. 2 ender 3pros, a cr10 and a sunlu s8. The plastic gets micro cracks in it and does not hold. Did not have the misdrilled holes, but got scraps anyway due to the slipping
I got the Ender 3 pro and it cracked at the base and Creality Replaced with the all Metal one .. couldn't use the new gear that goes on the motor as mine is the pressed on gear but it worked.. so BEERS!!! 🍻
I have an issue with my extruder where the gear wears down after a couple of months of hobby usage and I have to move it and eventually replace it. I have owned the printer (BIQU B1) for only about 6 months and I am on my third gear. Would this extruder solve that? Or maybe the dual gear extruder?
Thanks for the videos Im new to 3d printing and these have helped out. One question so I have the Ender 3 Pro and just did this upgrade didnt like the plastic stuff. When I do exactly what you do set it to 100 and run it it looks to push 100 takes it right down to the tape but then it back up 10mm. So do I need to adjust or is that normal? Thanks
I ordered the same kit to deal with some slipping issues on my 3 Pro, but the original gear is press fit onto the motor shaft, not held on with set screws. Any idea how to get the gear off? Maybe a small gear puller like they make for RC cars?
Please make a comparision between the original plastic, this metal, cheap dual gear, and bmg (clone and original). Also, there is Orbiter, Sherpa mini, and lots of variants using nema 14 motors like voron afterburner, but maybe it's too complicated and expensive for the typical Ender user.
Hi Chuck! First I want to thanks a lot for your effort. I learn many things with your videos. I bought the Ender 3 V2 in November 2021. I've had a lot of prints. When the plastic arm broke, I bought the aluminum arm you mentioned in this video. However, I saw that there was a problem in pushing and pulling back, and I noticed that the filament was again separated from fiber to fiber. Another issue is that I noticed that the aluminum arm heats up when printing for more than 20 hours. Did you experience any negativity regarding heating?
Now I'm thinking if I should switch to the dual gear
The motor should not heat up the arm. The extruder is being over driven. I no longer recommend the dual gear either. There is a way to reduce the current by adjustments on the board but I don’t have a video on that. I may make one soon.
You might also consider the EZR Extruder. It’s my favorite. th-cam.com/video/1GNDxvxpWr8/w-d-xo.html