Monday 2/28/22......I threaded the spark plug with anti seize after letting insert set up overnight. Snugged spark plug up, reconnected everything and it WORKED!! That 7mm bolt that holds down the coil pack was a real PITA to tighten down. I didn't have a 7mm ratchet wrench but highly recommend it. Jeff, thanks for posting the video and sharing tips and other needed information. THANK YOU VERY MUCH!!!!!
Awesome, glad to hear it's working for you. I'm researching my heat exchanger. Doesn't look that difficult. I do think I'll spend the bucks for a Ford OEM part. Take care...
@domingodelgado4630 Great, I hope you're already going on the road again. Be sure to oil that engine with the suggested maintenance interval or sooner, with 5-30 oil and filter. The engine will treat you much better. Also, try not to rev beyond 4500 RPM. Your head and intake manifold gaskets will thank you, and you will thank yourself. Take care...
The first edition of the heads I understand had 3 thread turns for the plugs and the problem was awful in the early engines. A couple years later, the improved head came out with an impressive 5 turns of threads for the spark plugs. That's planned obsolescence for you. The FROD, I mean FORD, or do I, Engineers knew exactly what would happen. Frankly, all the manufacturers are guilty of some sort of cheaping out on product quality. Take care...
💯 % designed to fail I remember as a kid dupont designed a tire that would never fail but they scraped it cause they needed them to ware out to sell more.
I think these NAPA (or Dorman) repair kits are designed for a temporary repair and not as a permanent fix. The NAPA kits increase the size of the damaged threaded hole but not so much that you can't remove it, and ream it out with the Cal Van kit and rethread it to accept the Cal Van insert which is considered a permanent repair.
Yeah, eventually you want to get the Napa Jimmy rig kit out of there and put the permanent Calvan type of inserts in. Then you can get back to the joys of using all the same spark plugs again.😝
@@CITAP1 I have, as of today, Friday, August 30th, 2024, two (2), Bank 1, Spark Plug ports assed up in my 1999 Mustang 4.6. I have done some research on TH-cam but found your video quite tempting. Tomorrow I will see about buying this. But before I go, let me share with you a video I saw in where this one mechanic, like you and I, said he used thin copper wire as expansion mass to secure the plug. I don't know if it worked. However, before I take a trip to the auto parts store I will try that copper wire technique. You never know.
@Vertigoneardeath if you are going to be doing this at home or your shop, I would recommend the CalVan kit. It's a better, more reliable solution. It has you drill out the seat, then tap new threads, then install a new better seat, and you use regular sparkplugs. I think that copper wire trick will get you to the store but I wouldn't depend on it for long.
@Vertigoneardeath I believe you get seats for all cylinders and I would recommend doing them. Im in the middle of replacing head gadkets on my fairly new 5.4 engine. The old engine you see in this video seized and died from a broken cracked oil sump tube. I'm putting back together using ARP head studs and doing a few performance upgrades. If you need more information on other aspects of these Ford modular engines, I have a bunch of how to videos. Best wishes on your repairs.
After using the CalVan 38900 kit to repair my 2001 F-150, I would never consider another method of fixing this problem. The CalVan kit is engineered to be a one time repair and is far better design than the Napa repair kit. That being said, it is pricey, so if your budget won't allow it, the Napa kit is probably the best solution.
Totally agree! If you're in the middle of nowhere with limited tooling available, the NAPA kit is your best choice. You can always install the CalVan kit later.
That kit is $550-$600. How much did you pay and how many spark plugs have you had to fix? I would love to get that kit too. My guess is that local mechanics don't use it because of the cost. I believe that's why I am fixing mine now. I had to use the NAPA repair kit as I am pressed for time and to get my steady ride back on the road. How long did it take you to fix yours and what components did you remove to get better access to it??
I only paid $150 for my Calvan knockoff kit on eBay and it has all the same parts as the Calvan. Amazon has new Knockoff kits for $165.00 that includes all the parts of the Calvan as well as the inserts. Good luck 🍀
@@ericberry5134 It should work,Its a Ford, Buy it in Autozone $47 + tax and 17mm deep socket.Put the tap and the sparkplug together with 15mm socket coat the sleeve with JB weld around and screw it in the hole until it stop.Wait 24 hours to cure the weld.And you saved a lot doing it yourself.
Update,I replaced it again at 120,000 miles because it started to leak or suck air and trigger po171 code.Same part same procedure.Now it runs perfect again maybe until 140,000 miles then I will just sell it for $5,000 This is the only issue that I have on this 2004 Expedition xlt.4.6 2 v
@ CITAP1 Could you please edit your title to include the year & series of truck. Is it 2 or 3 valve? The 2V and 3V kits are slightly different. THAT being said... This is the most detailed video Ive seen yet on this problem. I recommend people watch all the vids on this they can find (I've watched 20+ so far). I have learned tricks from each vid. Some have said this can happen from improper torque; too much anti-seize squishing back onto the beveled seat and more. The plug can apparently walk out a bit and lose threads, then pop! You would think it cant spin out but under vibration, it can. also the aluminum head getting hot & cold as the engine gets hot and cools off each day, can tweak the plug just a little if not seated properly. I'm def a new subscriber. I like your style on on explaining every detail. Most mechanic vids leave something out and usually don't add enough lighting to see what they are doing. I'm mostly a Chevy man, but even I know Ford Trucks are amazing tough. I am going to buy a friends '99 series 10 5.4 2V. So far it has not had this happen, but now I know how to make sure I can do everything needed to prevent this from happening. I'll buy the kit before hand and leave it in the truck. One vid showed a man telling how to drive the vehicle without the plug by taking the coil off the computer so it shuts down the fuel injector to shut off the fuel and prevent "cat" and o2 sensor damage. He is driving in the vid claiming he went a 1,000 miles or more till he gets it fixed at home. Yeah it popped all the way! :p That one you would have to watch and think about. I have driven a 4cyl Mitsubishi 20 miles with a missing plug to get home, also ran a VW Bug on 3 cyls. It wont hurt you block... I'm old school and am crazy enough to risk that sort of thing because am an experienced DIY guy who fixes my own cars I have AAA and 2 cars. lol... Learn all you can & good luck
@chetsjug Thanks for your kind words. I do try to be accurate and thorough and floks like you get it, appreciate it. I also get folks telling me to get to the point, specifically their point. They haven't the patience to watch a whole video. The mentality is akin to a firing squad, " Ready, Fire, Aim", So to say. You can look through my truck repair playlist, I've done a lot of major fixes and repairs. Right now, after out 2+ months on the road. I'm replacing the head gaskets on the engine. This will be the 4th time for various reasons. The first 3 I finally figured out were a ford factory machining error which I fixed with sandpaper. That engine ran until it died from oil pressure due to the sump pickup tube cracking. This latest head gasket job on the new engine is due to waterpump failure and brief overheating. So I'll be posting a few videos in series about that. When everything is working right on the 5.4 engine, it's a good engine. The annoying thing with them is with all the sensors, you think you know how to fix something, it's actually something causing a fault elsewhere in the system. I'm going to be covering a lot of issues with the 5.4 liter over the next week or so. Take care.
Fun Fact: If you use the Napa repair kit you'll need an 11/16" socket to seat it. In my 2002 Ford F-250, 5.4L gasser, the 11/16" is too big. Solution, get a grinder and a long 3/8" extension bar and begin to grind down the socket all around. You'll have to do some trial and error to make sure it goes all the way down and that you can spin it FREELY. When you are ready to seat the repair adapter, slightly grease the outer wall of the newly thinned out socket. I used brake caliper grease, it's high temp.
From my experience it is not that the threads won't hold the plug. It's the plug coming loose from improper torque and backing out until its only on one or two threads and then it blows out. Out of about the 10 I've owned with the modular engine probably 7 of them had spark plugs that weren't even hand tight when I went to change them. These engines runs so reliable people tend not to do maintenance until there is a problem so these trucks are out there running 150k miles and never had the plugs changed. This is a good kit and easy to install.
I have suspected that be one possibility. Previous owners replacing and overtightening the aluminum threads and damaging them is another. I have also heard running higher than 87 octane fuel can cause it to but I think this one doubtful. Take care!
Yeah that could def be an issue also. I just found it odd that people are pulling 3-4 times the stock hp out of them with the same heads and not blowing plugs or if they are it's not often and you would think you would blow them left and right by adding turbos and blowers etc. Higher octane theory sounds a little wonky. Yeah raising octane would raise the resistance to burning but I don't see a correlation. If anything running lower octane which would cause detonation issues. Who know for sure. Probably a mixture of things.
Use this only for a temporary fix if your stranded. It will eventually destroy your head which will need to be replaced. You need to permanently fix it with a Cal-Van insert.
I mostly agree with you that it's a great middle of nowhere emergency fix, but it will last for years or it did on my truck and that's with hauling around a 3000 pound truck camper and probably another 1000 pounds of gear. My repairs held up to severe duty. A regular person may never need another repair. If something happens again down the road, it is not going to destroy the head. All it's goi g to do is the same as the original failure and blow out. You may even be able to make the same repair using a new kit like I did in Vegas. I had a repair kit fail, got a new kit, installed it, warmed the engine idling for an hour to speed up the cure then left Vegas at 10PM heading north a couple hours. Slept at a gas station mini mart a couple hours before continuing on. Repair worked fine without fail another year or 2. The engine finally failed and seized on me in a matter of seconds when the oil sump tube failed and cracked causing the the pump to suck air. The new rebuilt engine has new plug seats that should be no problem. Just check for torque periodically. Take care...
@@johnmilner7603 Usually what it does is simply blow straight out and break off the side of the coil, the little mounting tab that holds it down to the head and in the hole to the spark plug. I've seen it happen a few times and never saw head damage. Always just the coil and the coil is usually still usable except it will sit lose. With my old engine, I kept two kits and tools and materials to do the repair. 15 minutes and you're on the road.
Hi my name is Doug im on my wife's TH-cam. Just had to say im getting ready to try this on my 02 e250 van blew a plug so i pulled all 8 to check the other ports and found one of these in the 1 and a bord out insert in one.so i put the bord out insert on the new plug and the other 5 plugs in. Then picked up this kit by taking the one i pulled out to auto zone. The ht1 plug cost $13. And the kit was $43. So im going to run to auto zone and get thred lock cause i grabbed jb weld. Then im going to try this kit and the one i pulled out with a new ht1 plug. Might grab a 9/16 socket for the ht1 plug so i can pull the plug out to change in the future 🤔. Looking at your video. Just wondering if 5years ago you ever think it would have helped over 285 people over they years? Have a blessed day!❤
Hi, yes, I think most have benefitted from the video and the repair kit. I will say the best way to go is the CalVan kit if you have the time and a little skill. Get the hi temp 400 degree red thred lock. There are dirrerent types. The repair kits worked for a few years on my truck. My engine developed a crack in my oil sump pickup tube, lost oil pressure, and seized up within 10 seconds. I have a new 5.4 engine now. There's a series of engine replacement videos on the channel if you ever need that. Both the old engine suffered the chronic intake manifold leak at the front right of the engine. I have a video to fix that also. If you ever have engine sputtering and misfire due to wet #1, 2, 3, sparkplugs being wet, that is the cause. Best wishes on your repairs.
Sorry to hear. At least the kit is cheap and easy. I had to do it 3 times over several years, twice to the same cylinder. The engine eventually seized when the oil sump pickup tube cracked and I lost oil pressure in just seconds. The new engine has all new improved seats and is working great, $3500.00. Best wishes and take care.
Seems to me Ford needs to supply the kit at no cost to you since they know their engines do this. I think you said your Ford had the V 10 . I almost got a Ford with the V 10 but 300.000 and only light repairs later I am glad I got the Dodge ;) It has the SLT 5.2 Liter V8 in a med sized truck so it never has to work to hard. I think thats why its lasted so long. I pray the rest of your trip go's better for you Sir.
Hi Jeff, This happened twice a while ago and I just got around to making the video how to do the repair. First time was in Tillamook and the second time I was seconds from getting onto Seattle's waterfront Viaduct during peak traffic. One of the most heavily traveled roads anywhere if you are familiar with it. Fortunately I was able to pull to the side and make the repair under the Viaduct for rain protection. This is Seattle you know and rain does happen here. I made this second repair in about 15 minutes and was back on the road, coffee still warm! I have a kit ready to go if it happens again as you saw in the video. I got this truck for a great price but it's had it's problems. Failed head gaskets x 3 tries before figuring out the block deck had a gouge from the factory machining at the front right #1 cylinder, AC system replacement, Alternator, Power Steering Pump, cold start injector, O2 sensors (right side was a bitch and a half!), Instrument cluster failure, Speed sensor failure in the pumpkin, Shall I continue? Determined Son of a Biscuit Eater aren't I... You Take Care Sir...
20000 miles later, expansion contraction will possibly have broken the bond and it'll back out with some effort. If the bond is good, it should be still working fine. If not, remove and Then install the Cal-Van kit
Get the high temp Red thread locker, Clean the oil from the plug threads in the head. Brake cleaner and a Terri cloth. A long right angle pick tool will be your friend to pull sockets out from the head, also for cleaning threads. Make sure your sockets will fit down the sparkplug hole. You'll be back on the road in no time. Directions say 24 hours cure time. I waited 2 hours, then idled the engine a few minutes to warm the area. Idle only, no revving or driving. I repeated a couple times every 10 or 15 minutes. After an hour or so I kept idle for about 10 minutes, then whent on my way, truck camper and all 3500 pounds plus of load. Never had an issue afterward. If this repair fails in the future, you can get the Cal-Van seat repair kit. A better repair but requires more tools and time. Good luck to you.
Jeez they really soaked you for that repair kit. I just bought mine from Napa in upstate New York for $47.00 and they gouged you for $114.00? I’m sure that they have come way down in price since that era of trucks is slowly being replaced by the new ones. I have a 2002 Expedition that now has two of the same kits in the head. I just bought the Calvan kit with the new inserts that allow you to use your oem plugs. It’s got a steel sleeve that sets against the flat surface of the cylinder head and a boring bit that cuts a fresh hole that you tap for a new shorter steel insert. Nice to know I’m not the only one enjoying all the fun of shooting spark plugs out..😝
Yeah, it was a pricey piece, but got me back on the road fast and easy. That engine since has been replaced wirh a new Ford rebuilt engine. 3500+. Been having all sorts of fun provlems with it. We're on the road right now and it's turned into a mechanics dream trip,,, not Take care.
I had to find a thin wall socket to get the new seat in. Don't remember the brand. I did buy a socket at NAPA but it was to thick to fit in the hole. I hope that answers your question.
I use the same kit lasted for 20,000 miles and started leaking like a loosed spark plug, so I removed it and bought the same kit but instead of using a thread locker I used JB Weld high temp.Now the Expedition is running perfectly again So now I have a spare kit in my Glove comp. Just in case 20,000 miles it leaks air I will be deady
Better go in dry later the lock tight won’t hold as good cause u have lube on new threads .. I did this but use the professional kit even has a sleeve that guides the tools perfectly aligned
There is no drilling or machine oil with this fix. You simply use the high temp 500 degree Loxtite on the threads of the self tapping new seat and screw it in till bottoming and that's it, very simpleI have 2 plug repairs 3 and 4 years old and working fine.
I just did another repair last January 2019 in Las Vegas while on a road trip. Takes all of 15 minutes to do the whole job. Longer for the cylinders closer to the firewall. Take care...
I see a couple torque ratings listed for my 1999 F250 5.4 liter 2 valve engine. Old factory torque 15 ft# and a new rating 25 ft#. I have checked the plugs a couple times using 15 ft# setting and the plugs were that tight, not moving. If somebody wants to check totque, I'd say go for it, set your accurate torque wrench to 15 ft# and turn till it clicks, don't go beyond that tightness. Accept that it's that tight and don't go beyond that.
Doesn't mattee. The seat only goes in so fat and hits bottom and seats. No shavings. Turn to tighten only, no need to back it out. You can always do a CalVan kit later if needed.
I did it with the 4.6 just can't get a socket around the adapter only the spark plug and its not down far enough and I already applyd thread locker any help
So if I want to one day remove this NAPA repair kit from the well, how would one go about it? One day I'd like to use the Cal-Van repair method. I think I might be thinking about number #7 every time I try a long drive......
I’ve done 3 repairs on mine. The 3rd broke the steel insert at the thread to the hex head. I’m gonna use easyout to get the threaded portion out and try again. I thought maybe I cranked it down too tight and the plug hit piston but there’s no visible damage on the plug so I’m assuming I over tightened the repair insert and that’s what cracked it and running the engine broke it the rest of the way. Gonna try again tomorrow. The other thing is, the directions with the Dorma brand kit says “high temp sealant”. Not “high temp thread-locker”. So idk whats better. In my situation I’d hate to have thread-lock cause now I gotta try to dig out the broken threaded section. I’ve always used the hi temp thread sealant.
I never had one break on me. I did have one fail. Reinstalling it didn't work but installing a new one did. I also made sure to use the specified red thread which is not normally in the auto parts store. If the kit I'm showing here does completely fail, you can do the seat replacement kit. Since this repair, my engine seized on me. I bought a remanufactured engine that has all new replacement seats that uses normal sparkplugs and is running great.
@@hellome530 If Odins Lock doesn't reply, I will guess you may have to pull the head which is involved. Timing cover needs to come off. Your mechanic will have better access access to the plug hole. They could carefully apply heat then use an easy out to remove the broken seat. A reverse easy out may be needed to drive the seat out from the combustion side which will have easier access. If you end up going this route, replace the chain guides with new Ford guides and hydrolic tensioners. I read there are cast iron and composit versions with the composit being prefered. Do your research and good luck with things.
@CITAP1 thanks for the tip. I hope he doesn’t have to pull the head because that’s at least $2500. I was thinking maybe tapping the broken piece out but not sure what other damage it can cause.
No. You'll need a thin wall socket to drive the new seat down. Be sure to use the correct hitemp red thread locker and load the threads up well before installing. Try to clean oils out of there too.
What year and how many miles did it happen to you? I had actually bought one of these kids for, "just in case" im glad you let us know about the thin wall socket! Ill need to get one..
Mine is a 2000 model year built in 99. The first time a plug blew out was at about 170000 miles while on an extended road trip coming home through Tillamook OR. I've had 2 failures, #6, #7, and a repeat on #7. All the failures did happen while under load with the truck camper on. The repeat repair on #7 is doing fine so far after 3 weeks now with the truck camper still on the truck.
@@CITAP1 I have 2004 Expedition 4.6 number 3 spark plug blew out at 65 mph in the freeway. Only 101k miles when it happened.I used a similar kit that you have not Napa but Dorman. brand they look the same as Napa brand.After I installed it and waited 24 hours to cure the Loctite,Test drove it and was noisy hissing noise coming out the cylinder.I had to remove the kit and re insert it but this time I use JB weld instead of Loctite a friend of mine a mechanic suggested . Since then until now 15,000 miles still intact and good.Thank God.
@@efrensaclolo7021 1 of my 2 repairs did fail in Las Vegas. I spent the night in the NAPA parking lot. Bought a new kit. They did not have the high temp red threadlocker but I had the bottle from when I did the first 2 repairs. I tried to reuse the failed seat as it looked fine. It hissed and failed. I had doubts but the new kit has worked fine ever since. I have heard of people using the high temp JB weld with success. Glad to hear you got it working.
@VileMisanthropy These 2 valve engine plugs don't break. I believe it's the three and four valve engines that break and there are videos by others showing that. My brother successfully used the special removal tool and got his broken plugs out.
@VileMisanthropy I got the NAPA kit and can be installed in 15 minutes if you have the parts. I always kept 2 NAPA kits with me and I used a total of 3 kits. I now have a new engine and the CalVan seats for plugs were installed. If you have the time, I recommend the CalVan kit. If you're stuck on the road, the NAPA kit will get you going.
Guys, JB Weld is far better than using People Permatex lock tight if you are using this tool. This will help prevent vacuum and exhaust leaks in the future. Good luck.....
The kit recommends hi temperature Red Loctite. There are others who have used the JB Weld with success they say. If there is a hi temperature JB Weld, I wouldn't have too big an issue using it but remember, you're not installing as recommended.
Do they make a slightly larger sleeve than this ? My issue is that the sleeve in that kit broke and left the threads into the spark plug hole I drilled it out with a 9/16 bit same size as the spark plug threading and got all clean and now another sleeve in the kit won’t catch smh
Oh Man, Sorry you're having trouble. You'll need to go the next step with the Cal~Van Repair kit. It's more involved and expensive but it is the far superior permanent repair. cal-vantools.com/products/ford-triton-spark-plug-thread-repair-kit/ Good luck with it. There are several videos showing the Cal~Van installation.
Brother, it happened again just two months later… The mechanic had a sleeve and installed it and it came out. I’ve got the Calvin kit and he also said he bought another kit of sleeves. What advice do you have to keep these sleeves staying in? Is there a different sealant that I should be using?
I made sure to get the 400 degree red hi-temp threadlocker. I stuffed a rag down the plug hole with a flat screwdriver and did my best to clean out any dirt and oil in the threads and surrounding areas. I heavily saturated the threads of the new self tapping seat with thread locker. I ran it down till I hit a more solid stop. You have resistance when tapping the seat down and that resistance will suddenly increase when you hit bottom. Leave sit an hour. Instructions say 24 hours, I was in a hurry. After an hour I ran and only idled the engine just long enough to warm it a little then shut off and waited and repeated every 15 minutes for an hour or 4 times. After an additional 15 minutes, I decided to call it good and hit the road. I did the repair on 2 cylinders 3 times. One repair lasted the rest of the engines life. The other lasted 3 years and came loose. I tried to re locktite the seat in but that failed. I bought a new kit and that seat also lasted another couple years till the engine seized due to a crack in the oil sump pickup tube. The kit is a good emergency repair everyone with those Ford engines should keep on hand. The Cal-Van kit is the way to go if you have the option. Good luck with things. My new engine has all new improved seats as part of the rebuild process.
@@nathanscruggs6080 Sorry this seemingly simple project is becoming more of a P in the B for you. I'm guessing it's the NAPA KIT seat that broke apart and a piece is now stuck in the cylinder. The next step I would do is to install a CalVan seat. You will have to drill the spark plug seat hole larger for that seat. After you drill the new hole size through the spark plug opening, you should be able to pull the pieces out through the now larger hole. When you get the pieces cleaned out, tap the new threads and install the CalVan seat. Hopefully everything will work OK. Removing the heads is a challenge. I did it three times replacing head gaskets on this truck. Finally figure the problem was a Ford manufacturing error where the block deck surface mill machine gouged right between the cylinder wall and water jacket. Gaskets would work for three months then fail I got 80 grit sandpaper and a flat block and sanded the left and right side of the block an equal number of passes across the entire surface until a feeler gauge wouldn't fit under a machinist's straightedge. After that, everything worked great until the oil sump tube cracked and I lost oil pressure, seizing the engine within 10 seconds. Now I have a new engine that's working great. That's a few other videos though. OK, hope things work for you this time, best of luck and Take Care...
Jeff, I have a 2002 Ford F-250 and number 3 position on drivers side blew the boot and I was able to reach in a pull plug out. It apparently had a Napa Repair insert in there ALREADY. Can I use a new Napa repair kit as time is not on my side? I tried to screw in current repair seat but it does not take. Will a NEW NAPA repair kit seat? It looks like the threads on the older kit was not be aggressive enough. I honestly have no idea it was in there and I am the original owner. Where can I get a thin walled 11/16 socket immediately? Did you have to removing any of the breather parts? fuel rail? If I get a Cal-Van kit later on what would I have to remove to get good working space? Eagerly awaiting a reply....
I was able to install a new kit in a cylinder that already had the kit. I put a lot of red hitemp threadlicker on it. I idled the engine about 15 mi utes to warm it then shut doun to let the heat setup the new seat. I repeated after the engine cooled warming it again but not driving. I started driving after 2 hours and thenew kit lasted a couple years till the enging seized when the oil pickup cracked. The second kit worked for me, it may work for you. Can't hurt to try, and if it doesn't work, go to the CalVan kit which is the best way.
@@CITAP1 So, here it is Sunday after a crushing defeat on Saturday. Pondering a tow to the local shop or having a last chance go at it. I went down to NAPA, got the repair kit. Fun Fact: the 11/16 sockets doesn't fit in the well. Spoke to an old time mechanic, he said "grind down the outside of the 11/16 socket.........and it WORKED! So apparently the largest socket that will fit in the well is a 5/8". I put Red Loctite on the threads and turned it and it went in. I cranked on it until it snugged up. I have learned never to celebrate until its running so I will just let it set overnight. We'll see. Tomorrow I put the spark plug in with anti-seize. Fingers crossed. So how do you remove the boot portion of the coil pack so that I can re-fit the smaller boot on it?. Do I just wiggle it off the Motorcraft?
@@patrickwhelan5703 The boot just turns and pops off. The NAPA sockets wouldn't fit but another brand did and it might have been a 12 point. Sounds like you have everything going right. Let me know how tonorrow works out. Good luck.
@@CITAP1 Haha. If I was lucky, I'd have won the lottery by now. I'd like to think it's a skill set, some perseverance, some sage advice and the willingness to succeed. The TH-cam videos have helped as well, especially yours. The truck is a NY original but for the last 4 years we're down in Florida. Have you had to replace a Master Cylinder in the Ford yet?
@@CITAP1 this happened on my crown Vic 2009 p71 i know they have repair kits for the 2000 gt and and ford f150 4.6 it’s the same engine so will it work
Thinking of buying 1996 UK Ford transit camper diesel automatic Fix Or Repair Dailly Its nice condition, retired couple had it for years now husband has dementia
If your ready for some travel, do it. Don't put off life, for too long. Don't know if you caught my latest videos, but the truck's engine has seized on me now due to oil pump failure. I'm installing a new engine in a couple days . The old engine had 250K miles, nothing lasts forever, a good run. Hope things workout for you on the Transit.
@@CITAP1 transit has 400000km Travelled since 1984 but cheap hotels and hostels (waste of money) Station wagon since July 2018 (saved a fortune) Yes started watching last week waiting for tow truck
@@Kiwionwing 400K km is a fair amount of use. At that point it's not just the engine but transmission, suspension and other parts too unless already maintained. I guess you'll have to take a good look at the Transit and see if you can get comfortable with it and it's potential future. For me, Lots of work has already been done to my truck. It's future weak points are the transfer case, transmission, U-Joints, Intermediate bearing on driveshaft, entire brake system - 4 calipers + master cylinder. The engine is 3000.00 and the other parts I listed about another 5000.00. A newer truck would cost 30 to 50 thousand. It's cheaper to Fix Or Repair Daily this truck I figure.... Well good, sounds like you're a traveled soul. It's amazing the vehicles we can make due with traveling. I used to travel in a Ford Ranger I built a blue tarp canopy over and setup a bed and cooler with storage and had some great times traveling in that.
You may have to go to a Cal-Van kit. It's a better fix anyway and not horribly difficult to install. Something like this www.ebay.com/itm/375287320826?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-213727-13078-0&mkcid=2&itemid=375287320826&targetid=4580771614374522&device=c&mktype=&googleloc=&poi=&campaignid=603418347&mkgroupid=1234752561360745&rlsatarget=pla-4580771614374522&abcId=9323204&merchantid=51291&msclkid=635306a83fb81d25d49d634368434307
@@TheIceNation001 I had that happen to me on the way to work. The fix worked and I was on my way in about 20 minutes. Sounds like you engine just had a good blow out.
I believe sealant is a silicon material and threadlock is something different. It can be confusing. There are a couple red thread lockers and many times, the correct hi temp 400C threadlock isn't in stock.
The new seat has a cutter built into it. Loa the threads up with the correct hi temp red thread lock, use a deep socket and put it down the hole start tightening and go forward only, no back and forward like a regular tap. Tighten down till it feels tighter and stops turning easily. The front holes are easy. 4, 5, 8, not so easy. Having a combination of extension lengths for best position helps.
Did you replace the coil also? It looked like new coils on your previous repairs but you didn't mention it here. What do I do with the old coil to make it stay on?
I did replace the old coils with NAPA coils. You can get by with using the old coil if it stays in place. I used my old coils for a while till I bought new ones and screwed them back down to the intake manifold.
At the napa or other auto store, I bought a set of probing tools. I used one with a quarter inch 90 degree bend to stick down the hole in through the square drive opening and was able to pull the socket out. Should be able to do the same with any stiff wire with a small bend to hook and pull.
Did you replace the ignition coil or were you able to use the old one with the new shorter extension. I saw the end of the video and it shows you purchased a new coil. Was it need for this repair?
Usually when the plug blows out of the head, it breaks the mounting tab on the coil. The coil will still work but won't mount on the intake manifold. Whether you need a new coil or can still use the same one, you'll need to replace the stock plug boot and spring with the new shorter ones in the kit.
@@jeffs1749 I had a failure this last January as I was leaving Las Vegas. Swung into NAPA and got a kit. They did not have the high temp red thread locker but I had an old tube of it in my tool kit along with an extra seat repair kit. First, I tried to reinstall the failed seat but it failed. I then tried the new seat I had in my kit and it has been working fine ever since. So you can use the repair twice on one cylinder. I haul heavy loads in my truck so it bets hard duty use. If it does fail again, you can step up to one of the kits you drill out install an actual new seat. The method I show is a lot cheaper and easier and is a good first attempt repair.
@@BESTEAGLESFAN4EVER great! Before you screw in the seat, you should take a terri cloth rag with a generous shot of brake cleaner on it with a long flat screwdriver and turn it through the threads a couple times to remove any oil contamination from the threads. Do it a couple times till clean then a dry run to dry the threads. Blake cleaner does dry fast so wait a while before proceeding. Be sure you have the correct hi temperature red threadlock, part number should be in the instructions, I also provide it in the video and the about text. I loaded my threads on the seat way up completely. When you start turning in the seat, it will have about the same resistance all the way in increasing a little as you go. When you hit bottom, it will be a fairly positive stop. While you're waiting for the seat or seats to setup, take the opportunity to check and retork the other sparkplugs. They have a tendency of coming lose and blowing out too. I short cutted and idled the engine for 10 minutes to heat things up to dry faster. No driving but a little mild revving then shutdown another couple hours. After that, I drove several thousand miles till the engine seized due to loss of oil pressure. That's another set of videos. OK, best of wishes to your success.
The Installation instructions say to use the high temp red thread locker. Also put some anti seize on the spark plug threads. Thread locker will keep the new seat in place. Anti seize will help prevent the seat from breaking loose and backing out if you ever change the spark plug. I'd follow directions. Be sure you get the high temperature thread locker from Loctite. I have two of these kits installed and both working fine. Good luck.
This is a hard working truck carrying construction materials and about 4000 pounds of truck camper and supplies with two people. Most vehicles will never have this level of use. The first one blew on a camp trip near Tillamook Oregon. We limped into town and camped near the NAPA store. I probably had 150k on the truck at the time. The second blew a couple years later at close to 200k miles. Both times I was on the road in 15 minutes. The engine finally died after a couple months on the road when the oil sump pickup tube and the engine lost pressure seizing within 10 seconds. The replacement engine has had all the sparkplug seats replaced and an improved oiling system. Truck is still going great.If you have the time and money, the CalVan kit is the better way to go. If you do this NAPA kit, you can still do the CalVan kit later since it needs to be drilled and tapped to a larger size.
I used the kit in two cylinders and the kits worked fine for several years. I had one kit fail while on a road trip in Las Vegas. I got another kit and replaced the failed kit. Keep in mind this truck is a hard working truck hauling heavy loads most people never will. It also is used for a 3000 pound truck camper a lot. With stuff, the truck is carrying around 4500 pounds + during camping and road trips. This particular time happened while I was driving through the Southwest where speed limits are 80 MPH which is a big demand on a truck carrying that load and pushing through the air at those speeds for hours a day in warm weather. Frankly, I'm amazed the kits lasted as well and long as they did. The replacement kit lasted till the engine seized a few months later when the oil pump failed at 250000 plus miles. If you are just using a daily driver and not carrying heavy loads, I would bet the kit will last the vehicles remaining life. Just follow the kit directions and be sure to use the proper 500 degree high temperature Red Thread Locker the store usually does not stock, not the lower temp red they usually stock. These kits were all installed while I was on the road away from home somewhere, real life savers. I kept a kit in the truck after the first blow out and it sure came in handy on the side of the highway where I installed it in about 15 minutes and went on my way. I know the kit says let set 24 hours but I didn't have 24 hours, I'm working. My third replacement was done in a NAPA parking lot where I did let is setup 4 hours. I did idle the engine to heat things up and speed the dry time. I figured since the engine would just be idling, The pressures wouldn't be as great as if I was on the road with all the weight and pushing 70 MPH. Good luck with it.
I found a better way , instead of loctite thread locker, I used JB weld around the sleeve of the new insert.Wait 24 hours and you are set for 20k miles.Thread won't seal.It will suck air and trigger po 171 and po 174 vacuum leak code.Intake manifold leak or bank too lean because it is sucking air.
There are people that used the JB high temp weld. I have the specified thread locker and am still doing fine with it with over 20K miles of hard duty use in my truck.
@@CITAP1 I used the same method you did, but weeks later it trigger cel too lean in bank 1 po 171 so I pulled it out and reinstall it using JB weld and it lasted for 20,000 miles when it start leaking again so I re do the same process with JB weld and maybe in the next 20,000 miles it will leak again I would have enough money to buy a newer Expedition.But I want to thank you for posting such a wonderful video,God bless.
@@efrensaclolo7021 Thank you and The Lords Blessings be upon you and your family as well. I had to re-repair 1 of mine too passing through Las Vegas. It lasted another year till my oil sump tube cracked and caused my engine to seize instantly. Bought and installed a new engine and been working great. Take care...
@@CITAP1 I should add for your subscribers that I used the same coil pack,I reattached the ear with JB weld and until this time it is still at work.Also I may add that my 2004 Expedition is 4.6 2valve and yours is 5.4 2valve and this works on both Ford Triton engines.Also install the spark plug inside the tap and just installed it in one piece.God Bless my friend.
This repair drives through what's left of the existing threads after a Blowout. It taps threads and seats in one step. Use a generous amount of the red 400+ degree thread locker to seat and set in place. Let setup 24 hours, les if engine is warm or hot when the repair is made. First time after setup, I'd run the engine at idle to get to running temp, then let cool to try and be sure the repair is set. I believe this kit works on all the 2 valve aluminum heads but talk to the parts person giving all the information about your vehicle to be sure you get the correct repair kit. This repair works great for normal use. If you haul heavy loads and run the engine above 4000 rpm, the chance of failure over a couple years is possible. My repair failed just a few days ago while on a trip carrying my truck camper and revving the engine over mountain passes. I redid the repair with a new seat and it has worked fine under heavy demand for 1500 miles now. The nice thing is, if this kit fails, you can do a true reseat repair at a later date.
@@urbandriven9331 The plug is a Platinum plug and gap is non adjustable. If you look at the tip of the plug, it has a U shape anode of metal going around the electrode in the center. I have two of these repair kits on my engine and they are working fine at about 50K miles. Now I will say one of the kits failed on me and I had to replace the seat with another of the same. The failure happened in Las Vegas on a month long camp trip. I was hauling a 3000 pound plus truck camper and doing 70-75 MPH on Arizona and Nevada highways. The engine was under a lot of demand and I sure the original kit only failed because of the demand placed on it. I have about 10K on the new kit and still working fine. When I pulled out the old plug, you could see the ware on it but it was still serviceable.
You don't have to . That is platinum plugs. Can last 150k miles before changing.If you drive that much yes you could change it that is what the anti seize is for .
The Cal-Van kit is superior no doubt. But when you're dead on the side of the road with buzzards flying over, you'll want this kit in your bag of tricks. No special tools needed. I got several thousand miles from the kit, no issue.
I think it's the same kit. Check with a NAPA parts counter person to be sure. If the 4.6 and 5.4 liter engines use the same spark plugs, it should be the same kit.
The plugs near the firewall are a B🤬TCH to get to! This happened to me after I let Ford dealership fix my truck... Pull out the dealership, and all of a sudden it won't shift pass 3rd! No time to fix... I'm driving around in 2 going 60mph. BANG! CLACKCLAKCLAK.......
What did the dealer do? I don't think a dealer would use this kit. The dealer would use either a Ford kit or a CAL-VAN kit. cal-vantools.com/products/ford-triton-spark-plug-thread-repair-kit/ Hope you get things back to working again. Nothing worse than not having your ride.
@@CITAP1 little confusing to read. Took my 03 F150 5.4 V8 Lariat to the dealer to remove alarm (disabled truck) and replace frozen ac clutch. $1500 later I get it back broke. Solenoid B failing, won't shift to 3rd. Kicker is instead of removing the alarm like I said they put a paperclip in the connector, wires all hanging........ raised hell that day. Spark plug blew day after as I refused to let them touch my truck and pushed 2nd to hard. That 03 lariat is a beast.
@@GodsMushroom Not sure I understand the problem but sounds terrible. Sorry you're getting hit with bad workmanship like this. Hope you get it worked out.
Another thing that makes me shake my head is the chronic intake manifold leak at the front right. I posted a fix for that that has been working well for about a month now. New engines are powerful and clean running, but the 60s engines were the most fun to work on and race. Take care.
I bought a set of probing tools with various bent ends. About 10 inch shaft length. I stuck them down into the plug hole, into the socket drive opening, and was able to pull the socket out easily.
In case you can reply immediately I want to write you and tell you thank you for your video and ask a very important question at the moment for me. If the kit is in without Loctite What do you recommend?
If you screwed the new seat down and it made a good solid stop at the bottom, I'd consider a wait and see approach. You could back it out and apply the correct high temp red thread locker. The trick with that is you need to be certain to not cross thread when you reinstall the seat kit. I did have one of my two kits fail on me down in Las Vegas traveling through there. I stopped in at a NAPA store, got a new seat kit and installed it after removing the failed kit. I was careful and made sure I found the threads the original kit made so as not to cross thread and was able to install a second repair kit for that spark plug. The second repair worked immediately and lasted until the engine died from loss of oil pressure a year later. Remember, there is a specific thread locker and it can be hard to find. I have seen other TH-cam videos where they used high temperature JB WELD instead. I don't know how it worked in the long term for them. Hope that helps.
CITAP1 fortunately I am at a mechanic. I told him that I think that the Loctite is essential… He backed out the kit put the Loctite high temp thread locker… And reinstalled it. Now do I have to wait? Waiting for your recommendations
@@jberg37 You need to get a thin wall socket. A 12 point should do it. I think I used either a craftsman or husky to do mine. You may also need an automotive pick with a 90 degree end to hook the socket to get it out if the extension pops out of the socket, Automotive stores have them in a pack of 5 with different tip styles for about 8 bucks. the pick should be 10 to 12 inches long.
@@joshuacox5263 The kit says to wait 24 hours for the thread locker. I waited an hour, then idled the engine to get it warm, then shut down for half an hour, then started again, let it warm up and went on my way with no issues. That has always been while carrying my truck camper so there was a good load on the engine and it turned out well, lasted for a few years till the truck engine finally died. I will say if you were at a mechanic shop, I would have gone for the CalVan seat replacement kit. It's more involved but as I understand, it's the best of all the repair options. What you have though will work fine and I wouldn't lose any sleep over it. As I said, my truck gets heavy use most vehicles will never know and these kits worked great.
0:40 that is a concession to "automation" that turned out poorly. (It would bankrupt fomoco to admit and fix, so they simply couldn't) As some would say, it is what it is. but fixable thru inserts. Peace.
There are so many engineering flaws in vehicles... Manufacturers can design something to last or they can design it to work. They have the costs all figured out... Take care,,,
I showed the instructions near the beginning of the video and on the box at this time in the video. th-cam.com/video/PWyw_gxNQ4Y/w-d-xo.html The NAPA part number shows in both parts of the video and is available at NAPA Auto Parts Stores. #600-3248 www.napaonline.com/en/p/NDP6003248 NAPA also sells replacement coils if you need that too. Good luck with your engine.
Yeah, there are many variables and results will be different. I had one not blow out, but I could hear it leaking after a couple years, so I installed a new kit which worked till the engine seized on me due to a cracked oil sump pickup tube. If you have the time and tools, the CAL-VAN kit is the way to go. My new engine has all new improved seats in it. Hope you get it resolved quickly.
@@SDMFTommySick You just press it on over the little tab, may take some effort but you want the tight fit. The little metalic rod inside the spring I believe does a couple things, concentrates the magnetic lines to transfer more energy into the spark plug and reduce radio noise interference. When you get the spring on, slip the boot over it and the boot does attach to the coil in a specific way that should become obvious. Hope it all works out for you.
@@CITAP1 just kind of put the spring in there my problem was the spring I was removing kind of got all twisted up because it was really attached in there and I couldn't get the new spring attached that tight. I just got the job done truck started right up just went down to the gas station and back so far not haven't but much of a load on it. I do want to thank you for posting this video I know it was a while ago that you posted it. You & the video have been a lifesaver thank you very much. Funny thing is I work on race cars all the time never had to deal with these coil packs like this..
@@SDMFTommySick Awesome! Makes my day knowing I helped someone. I've done a few older Ford and Pontiac engines. I appreciate the straightforward honesty of a carburetor and dual point distributor.
I don't know about "easy fix". 1st you need the right tools to fix it. On my 2002 ford Triton you definitely need a adjustable wrench. You got to find the hole that it came out of. You got to take apart the wire leading to the coil. You got to put the spark plug in without restriping it. etc. A person with no knowledge about cars would have a hard time finding this
This video deals with the two valve engine. You don't need an adjustable wrench. The coil merely unplugs, then use I think an 8mm socket to unscrew and remove the coil. Remove the spark plug, install the self tapping seat, install the new H1 plug, finished. The two valve engine is simple.
Kinda beyond me, but good to know, so thanks! Would you buy a newer Ford now? I'm going round and round between Chevy, Dodge, Ford, new, used, gas, diesel... I dunno. Need a one ton dually.
I wanted the diesel for years but have changed my mind in favor of the large gas engine because it's a lot cheaper and easier to fix. While it works and gets me where I'm going, I consider my 5.4 liter too small for the weight of the truck camper and going up into the mountainous places I like to camp. Now if you are going to get a big heavy truck camper and do some towing, then you're better off going diesel. If you're pulling that much weight, I'd say go dually too. I'm happy with the super cab but if you need the storage or passenger space and don't mind the wide turning radius, get the crew cab. I'd also stick with the automatic. All truck brands are going to eventually have problems so just accept that. I'm still sticking with the FORD. There have been engine and other problems but all were fixable by me. So far the transmission suspension and the rest of the truck haven't failed me,,, yet... When you're ready to jump, go, and you'll just figure out issues along the way. don't deprive yourself longer than necessary to get your ducks lined up and get your truck and camper. You don't have to start out with the perfect rig, just get something acceptably nice and use it till you're ready to get what you really want. A used rig keeps it's value well so you should get your money back out when your ready to get the one you really want. Take care...
I got a few years of heavy hauling the truck camper up and down the mountains not to mention all the loads of construction demolition. It's fast and easy to install anywhere, anytime and you can always do a calvan kit later.
worst piece of junk you could ever use Cal Van do'es the best job ever your tool your talking about do'es not come with a line up tool to keep it straight don't bother with that product.
The deep socket functions as a lineup tool. The Cal Van is the way to go but it's much more involved and this kit can get you running in 15 minutes even 20 miles in on a dirt road in Death Valley. You can always install the Cal Van kit later back in civilization.
Why not use the kit that has a tap and an inesert (similar to heli-coil but better), then your plug sits down in the combustion chamber like stock. and you can use a stock coil. And they don't break off or leak. The original problem is Ford only tapped the very bottom of the plug hole (about 4-5 threads) go figure?
The CalVan kit is the good one. This repair can be done in 15 minutes in the middle of nowhere. You can always install the CalVan kit later when you have access to a bunch of tools. Consider the kit I show as cheaper than a tow home from 1500 miles away. That was my situation. Take care.
@@CITAP1 Ok, that makes more sense if your stuck. The cal van is much like some of the other insert kits. That one that sticks up from the hole kinda reminds me of the old spark plug anti fouling things you could screw in.
Please don't use these kits. They are a temporary fix at best. Get you a calvan 38900 kit and do it the right way. So many of these fail within 1000 miles it's not worth it.
If you're stuck out in the desert or on a long lonely highway with little traffic at night, this kit will get you to civilization. For me, hauling a 3000 pound truck camper and another 1000 pounds of gear, these kits lasted me for years. The nice thing is if it fails a new kit will work, it did for me. If you do want to upgrade to the Cal-Van kit, you can. No doubt the Cal-Van kit is superior but as long as this kit is working, don't fix if it ain't broke. Take care...
It been 5 years on my 4.6 2valve Expedition and 15,000 miles still no issue.So you are wrong Chris.Only $45 + tax in Autozone I SAVED a lot,Dealership wants more th an a$1000 using Calvin kit.I did it for $45 arssaved $1000. Oh plus JB weld $5 I used instead of thread locker.Iam not a mechanic USPS carrier 30years.
@@efrensaclolo7021 It gave me peace of mind having a spare and I actually did need and use it on my way to a project one morning. 15 minutes and back on the road. It's like insurance, you never know when you need it. Take care,
Wrong again... The cause is part of the calibration.... If you don't update the calibration you will have a second failure.... The failure is always in the cylinders where the EGR is added to the intake...
Are you talking about 2004 and newer engines with the 2 piece plugs that break apart during removal? This is a 2000 5.4 Liter truck engine with no per cylinder smog devices. It does have an EGR valve which connects after the throttle butterfly valves feeding to all cylinders If you have a service bulletin link to show, sure I'd like to see it. I'm not professing to be an expert, just showing how I fixed mine which is still working flawlessly.
@@CITAP1 No this is not the threads breaking off, this is the blow out that takes the threads... Run the Vin on the OASIS program... Most dealers will do it for you... By the way that fix is not an authorized fix and without the re-calibration it too will fail.... I was a field engineer for Ford Motor Co for 30 years and did some of the research into this failure....
@@edofstad9675 I'm not following you on recalibrating. Recalibrating what? My heads are the improved heads with 5 turns of sparkplug threads. The pre 1999 heads if I recall correctly, were the very problematic heads with 3 turns of thread. These NAPA repair kits are quick and easy to install. This is a working truck frequently carrying heavy loads including a truck camper. One failure was while under load. The other failure, a couple years later was not. I think the first repair is 5 years old now. That's a pretty good span of service. I've had alternators, water pumps, compressors, and other components to the engine fail with shorter intervals and have much higher levels of difficulty to repair. Given the simplicity, performance, price, and reliability this kit has provided, I call it a winner. If it ever fails, I will install a new seat.
I hear you. One thing they say is to periodically check the tightness of your spark plugs. With so few threads, the plugs are prone to loosening and backing out and over time with the combustion slamming them in the threads, the threads wear out and you get the infamous blowout. As a preventative, take a torque wrench to each plug and check it for 13 to 15 pounds torque.
You can always fast forward and search for the parts you need to see. A lot of people aren't so mechanically inclined and need all the details. You can't please everyone! All anyone needs to know is, Remove spark plug, screw down and bottom out new repair seat with hi-temp red thread lock on it. Wait 24 hours. Screw in new spark plug and reconnect coil. Drive away.
I admit it's not a popup book but I try to be thorough in the information I give delivering tips and tricks on tools, materials, and how to do the repair. The only thing in this video that might be better is showing installing the new seat. I figure most people have turned a wrench and tightened down a bolt. That is essentially what this repair is. Putting High Temp Red Loctite on the new seat and running it down till it stops. It's a good easy fast repair that has held up well for me. My truck gets much heavier regular use than most peoples trucks ever will. If you do need to do this repair, I still recommend and stand behind it. Good luck...
OK, there isn't much to show for re-tapping the sparkplug hole. The new seat taps threads as you tighten it down into the head. (If for some reason this kit fails to work, you can go the next step and get a drill, tap, and re-seat type of kit.) You simply get the NAPA kit I show, you have to have the high temperature red thread locker. Clean the threads as best you can. Brake cleaner and any way you can reach down the hole to clean the threads. Spray onto your cleaning impliment, not down into the cylinder. Load generously red thread locker onto the new self tapping seat. You need a thin wall socket and extension to get into the hole. Start turning / tightening the new seat in and keep tightening till it has a solid stop. Tighten only, do not loosen. Let it setup a couple hours. Reassemble the coil with the new short rubber boot and connecting spring. You're good to go and if you have all the parts, it should only take 15 minutes. It's very quick and simple. I have 3 of these on my engine now and they work great. Others have had good results too. Sorry I don't show tightening it in. Only have 2 hands but it's just tightening it in like anything else you tighten down. Hope this helps, good luck...
@@CITAP1 any information is helpful at this point because this will be my first attempt this weekend. I appreciate the reply, thank you for reaching out.
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Monday 2/28/22......I threaded the spark plug with anti seize after letting insert set up overnight. Snugged spark plug up, reconnected everything and it WORKED!! That 7mm bolt that holds down the coil pack was a real PITA to tighten down. I didn't have a 7mm ratchet wrench but highly recommend it. Jeff, thanks for posting the video and sharing tips and other needed information. THANK YOU VERY MUCH!!!!!
Awesome, glad to hear it's working for you. I'm researching my heat exchanger. Doesn't look that difficult. I do think I'll spend the bucks for a Ford OEM part. Take care...
Just yesterday this happened to me, i didn't even know these kits existed. Thanks for a the info. It was very helpful.
@domingodelgado4630 Great, I hope you're already going on the road again. Be sure to oil that engine with the suggested maintenance interval or sooner, with 5-30 oil and filter. The engine will treat you much better. Also, try not to rev beyond 4500 RPM. Your head and intake manifold gaskets will thank you, and you will thank yourself. Take care...
This should have been a recall on these trucks but that’s my opinion
The first edition of the heads I understand had 3 thread turns for the plugs and the problem was awful in the early engines. A couple years later, the improved head came out with an impressive 5 turns of threads for the spark plugs. That's planned obsolescence for you. The FROD, I mean FORD, or do I, Engineers knew exactly what would happen. Frankly, all the manufacturers are guilty of some sort of cheaping out on product quality.
Take care...
Four little as threads come on ford.
💯 % designed to fail I remember as a kid dupont designed a tire that would never fail but they scraped it cause they needed them to ware out to sell more.
Thank you for the info! I just had a plug blow out of my 1997 F-150 and now I know what to do to fix it myself.
I think these NAPA (or Dorman) repair kits are designed for a temporary repair and not as a permanent fix. The NAPA kits increase the size of the damaged threaded hole but not so much that you can't remove it, and ream it out with the Cal Van kit and rethread it to accept the Cal Van insert which is considered a permanent repair.
That is true. The repairs did last a few years though.
Yeah, eventually you want to get the Napa Jimmy rig kit out of there and put the permanent Calvan type of inserts in. Then you can get back to the joys of using all the same spark plugs again.😝
That new seat looks like a Spark Plug Non-Fouler. Thanks for the video.
@@Vertigoneardeath This kit got me out of a bind and back on the road 3 times.
@@CITAP1 I have, as of today, Friday, August 30th, 2024, two (2), Bank 1, Spark Plug ports assed up in my 1999 Mustang 4.6. I have done some research on TH-cam but found your video quite tempting. Tomorrow I will see about buying this. But before I go, let me share with you a video I saw in where this one mechanic, like you and I, said he used thin copper wire as expansion mass to secure the plug. I don't know if it worked. However, before I take a trip to the auto parts store I will try that copper wire technique. You never know.
@Vertigoneardeath if you are going to be doing this at home or your shop, I would recommend the CalVan kit. It's a better, more reliable solution. It has you drill out the seat, then tap new threads, then install a new better seat, and you use regular sparkplugs. I think that copper wire trick will get you to the store but I wouldn't depend on it for long.
@@CITAP1 Calvan kit, got it! Pricey. $200 on Amazon...but I do understand. You get what you pay for. Thank you.
@Vertigoneardeath I believe you get seats for all cylinders and I would recommend doing them. Im in the middle of replacing head gadkets on my fairly new 5.4 engine. The old engine you see in this video seized and died from a broken cracked oil sump tube. I'm putting back together using ARP head studs and doing a few performance upgrades. If you need more information on other aspects of these Ford modular engines, I have a bunch of how to videos. Best wishes on your repairs.
After using the CalVan 38900 kit to repair my 2001 F-150, I would never consider another method of fixing this problem. The CalVan kit is engineered to be a one time repair and is far better design than the Napa repair kit. That being said, it is pricey, so if your budget won't allow it, the Napa kit is probably the best solution.
Totally agree! If you're in the middle of nowhere with limited tooling available, the NAPA kit is your best choice. You can always install the CalVan kit later.
That kit is $550-$600. How much did you pay and how many spark plugs have you had to fix? I would love to get that kit too. My guess is that local mechanics don't use it because of the cost. I believe that's why I am fixing mine now. I had to use the NAPA repair kit as I am pressed for time and to get my steady ride back on the road. How long did it take you to fix yours and what components did you remove to get better access to it??
@@patrickwhelan5703 $235 on Amazon. Kit includes 8 inserts.
I only paid $150 for my Calvan knockoff kit on eBay and it has all the same parts as the Calvan.
Amazon has new Knockoff kits for $165.00 that includes all the parts of the Calvan as well as the inserts.
Good luck 🍀
PS: Napa auto parts sells the same exact Calvan kit for over $450.00. They must really think people are stupid.
I had one blow out today on mine. I bought a kit from O'Rielley's. Thank you so much for this video.
Glad it helped!
I use that on my ford expedition $65 and 17k later it is still intact using a loctite thread locker.This is better than helicoil.Thank God.
Efren Saclolo will this work on crown Vic 4.6
@@ericberry5134 It should work,Its a Ford, Buy it in Autozone $47 + tax and 17mm deep socket.Put the tap and the sparkplug together with 15mm socket coat the sleeve with JB weld around and screw it in the hole until it stop.Wait 24 hours to cure the weld.And you saved a lot doing it yourself.
Update,I replaced it again at 120,000 miles because it started to leak or suck air and trigger po171 code.Same part same procedure.Now it runs perfect again maybe until 140,000 miles then I will just sell it for $5,000 This is the only issue that I have on this 2004 Expedition xlt.4.6 2 v
@ CITAP1 Could you please edit your title to include the year & series of truck. Is it 2 or 3 valve? The 2V and 3V kits are slightly different. THAT being said... This is the most detailed video Ive seen yet on this problem. I recommend people watch all the vids on this they can find (I've watched 20+ so far). I have learned tricks from each vid. Some have said this can happen from improper torque; too much anti-seize squishing back onto the beveled seat and more. The plug can apparently walk out a bit and lose threads, then pop! You would think it cant spin out but under vibration, it can. also the aluminum head getting hot & cold as the engine gets hot and cools off each day, can tweak the plug just a little if not seated properly. I'm def a new subscriber. I like your style on on explaining every detail. Most mechanic vids leave something out and usually don't add enough lighting to see what they are doing. I'm mostly a Chevy man, but even I know Ford Trucks are amazing tough. I am going to buy a friends '99 series 10 5.4 2V. So far it has not had this happen, but now I know how to make sure I can do everything needed to prevent this from happening. I'll buy the kit before hand and leave it in the truck. One vid showed a man telling how to drive the vehicle without the plug by taking the coil off the computer so it shuts down the fuel injector to shut off the fuel and prevent "cat" and o2 sensor damage. He is driving in the vid claiming he went a 1,000 miles or more till he gets it fixed at home. Yeah it popped all the way! :p That one you would have to watch and think about. I have driven a 4cyl Mitsubishi 20 miles with a missing plug to get home, also ran a VW Bug on 3 cyls. It wont hurt you block... I'm old school and am crazy enough to risk that sort of thing because am an experienced DIY guy who fixes my own cars I have AAA and 2 cars. lol... Learn all you can & good luck
@chetsjug Thanks for your kind words. I do try to be accurate and thorough and floks like you get it, appreciate it. I also get folks telling me to get to the point, specifically their point. They haven't the patience to watch a whole video. The mentality is akin to a firing squad, " Ready, Fire, Aim", So to say.
You can look through my truck repair playlist, I've done a lot of major fixes and repairs. Right now, after out 2+ months on the road. I'm replacing the head gaskets on the engine. This will be the 4th time for various reasons. The first 3 I finally figured out were a ford factory machining error which I fixed with sandpaper. That engine ran until it died from oil pressure due to the sump pickup tube cracking. This latest head gasket job on the new engine is due to waterpump failure and brief overheating. So I'll be posting a few videos in series about that.
When everything is working right on the 5.4 engine, it's a good engine. The annoying thing with them is with all the sensors, you think you know how to fix something, it's actually something causing a fault elsewhere in the system.
I'm going to be covering a lot of issues with the 5.4 liter over the next week or so.
Take care.
Fun Fact: If you use the Napa repair kit you'll need an 11/16" socket to seat it. In my 2002 Ford F-250, 5.4L gasser, the 11/16" is too big. Solution, get a grinder and a long 3/8" extension bar and begin to grind down the socket all around. You'll have to do some trial and error to make sure it goes all the way down and that you can spin it FREELY. When you are ready to seat the repair adapter, slightly grease the outer wall of the newly thinned out socket. I used brake caliper grease, it's high temp.
Another fun fact, my heater core just started leaking.
@@CITAP1 Yikes!!! Is that in the engine bay or in the dash?
@@patrickwhelan5703 hoses under hood, core under dash. Doesn't look horrible. I should be able to do it in a couple hours.
From my experience it is not that the threads won't hold the plug. It's the plug coming loose from improper torque and backing out until its only on one or two threads and then it blows out. Out of about the 10 I've owned with the modular engine probably 7 of them had spark plugs that weren't even hand tight when I went to change them. These engines runs so reliable people tend not to do maintenance until there is a problem so these trucks are out there running 150k miles and never had the plugs changed. This is a good kit and easy to install.
I have suspected that be one possibility. Previous owners replacing and overtightening the aluminum threads and damaging them is another. I have also heard running higher than 87 octane fuel can cause it to but I think this one doubtful. Take care!
Yeah that could def be an issue also. I just found it odd that people are pulling 3-4 times the stock hp out of them with the same heads and not blowing plugs or if they are it's not often and you would think you would blow them left and right by adding turbos and blowers etc. Higher octane theory sounds a little wonky. Yeah raising octane would raise the resistance to burning but I don't see a correlation. If anything running lower octane which would cause detonation issues. Who know for sure. Probably a mixture of things.
Yep the same 1 on my friends truck, thanks for sharing your thoughts and great videos
Use this only for a temporary fix if your stranded. It will eventually destroy your head which will need to be replaced. You need to permanently fix it with a Cal-Van insert.
I mostly agree with you that it's a great middle of nowhere emergency fix, but it will last for years or it did on my truck and that's with hauling around a 3000 pound truck camper and probably another 1000 pounds of gear. My repairs held up to severe duty. A regular person may never need another repair. If something happens again down the road, it is not going to destroy the head. All it's goi g to do is the same as the original failure and blow out. You may even be able to make the same repair using a new kit like I did in Vegas. I had a repair kit fail, got a new kit, installed it, warmed the engine idling for an hour to speed up the cure then left Vegas at 10PM heading north a couple hours. Slept at a gas station mini mart a couple hours before continuing on. Repair worked fine without fail another year or 2. The engine finally failed and seized on me in a matter of seconds when the oil sump tube failed and cracked causing the the pump to suck air. The new rebuilt engine has new plug seats that should be no problem. Just check for torque periodically. Take care...
@@CITAP1 your lucky cause normally it will blow out and take a piece of the head with the repair.
@@johnmilner7603 Usually what it does is simply blow straight out and break off the side of the coil, the little mounting tab that holds it down to the head and in the hole to the spark plug. I've seen it happen a few times and never saw head damage. Always just the coil and the coil is usually still usable except it will sit lose. With my old engine, I kept two kits and tools and materials to do the repair. 15 minutes and you're on the road.
I put it in my 4.6 expedition and still holding up until now after 17 000 miles.
Hi my name is Doug im on my wife's TH-cam. Just had to say im getting ready to try this on my 02 e250 van blew a plug so i pulled all 8 to check the other ports and found one of these in the 1 and a bord out insert in one.so i put the bord out insert on the new plug and the other 5 plugs in. Then picked up this kit by taking the one i pulled out to auto zone. The ht1 plug cost $13. And the kit was $43. So im going to run to auto zone and get thred lock cause i grabbed jb weld. Then im going to try this kit and the one i pulled out with a new ht1 plug. Might grab a 9/16 socket for the ht1 plug so i can pull the plug out to change in the future 🤔. Looking at your video. Just wondering if 5years ago you ever think it would have helped over 285 people over they years? Have a blessed day!❤
Hi, yes, I think most have benefitted from the video and the repair kit. I will say the best way to go is the CalVan kit if you have the time and a little skill. Get the hi temp 400 degree red thred lock. There are dirrerent types.
The repair kits worked for a few years on my truck. My engine developed a crack in my oil sump pickup tube, lost oil pressure, and seized up within 10 seconds. I have a new 5.4 engine now. There's a series of engine replacement videos on the channel if you ever need that. Both the old engine suffered the chronic intake manifold leak at the front right of the engine. I have a video to fix that also. If you ever have engine sputtering and misfire due to wet #1, 2, 3, sparkplugs being wet, that is the cause. Best wishes on your repairs.
Thanks
Nice video third time this has happened on my 2001 F150.
Sorry to hear. At least the kit is cheap and easy. I had to do it 3 times over several years, twice to the same cylinder. The engine eventually seized when the oil sump pickup tube cracked and I lost oil pressure in just seconds. The new engine has all new improved seats and is working great, $3500.00. Best wishes and take care.
Seems to me Ford needs to supply the kit at no cost to you since they know their engines do this. I think you said your Ford had the V 10 . I almost got a Ford with the V 10 but 300.000 and only light repairs later I am glad I got the Dodge ;) It has the SLT 5.2 Liter V8 in a med sized truck so it never has to work to hard. I think thats why its lasted so long. I pray the rest of your trip go's better for you Sir.
Hi Jeff, This happened twice a while ago and I just got around to making the video how to do the repair. First time was in Tillamook and the second time I was seconds from getting onto Seattle's waterfront Viaduct during peak traffic. One of the most heavily traveled roads anywhere if you are familiar with it. Fortunately I was able to pull to the side and make the repair under the Viaduct for rain protection. This is Seattle you know and rain does happen here. I made this second repair in about 15 minutes and was back on the road, coffee still warm! I have a kit ready to go if it happens again as you saw in the video. I got this truck for a great price but it's had it's problems. Failed head gaskets x 3 tries before figuring out the block deck had a gouge from the factory machining at the front right #1 cylinder, AC system replacement, Alternator, Power Steering Pump, cold start injector, O2 sensors (right side was a bitch and a half!), Instrument cluster failure, Speed sensor failure in the pumpkin, Shall I continue? Determined Son of a Biscuit Eater aren't I... You Take Care Sir...
Man, ive had multiple fords with the 4.6, 5.4 and the 6.8 and have never once had this happen to me, guess im lucky.
Same.... Knock on wood
Remove the plugs while their running temp helps alot
A Cal-van kit is your more permanent fix two valve and three valves are different kits make sure you get the one you need
What about when that cracks and breaks off 20 thousand later. Do you got tip to get the threads out. Lock tighted in?
20000 miles later, expansion contraction will possibly have broken the bond and it'll back out with some effort. If the bond is good, it should be still working fine. If not, remove and Then install the Cal-Van kit
Just had my plug blow out in my 99 5.4 on the side of the highway going to get it now
Get the high temp Red thread locker,
Clean the oil from the plug threads in the head. Brake cleaner and a Terri cloth. A long right angle pick tool will be your friend to pull sockets out from the head, also for cleaning threads. Make sure your sockets will fit down the sparkplug hole. You'll be back on the road in no time. Directions say 24 hours cure time. I waited 2 hours, then idled the engine a few minutes to warm the area. Idle only, no revving or driving. I repeated a couple times every 10 or 15 minutes. After an hour or so I kept idle for about 10 minutes, then whent on my way, truck camper and all 3500 pounds plus of load. Never had an issue afterward. If this repair fails in the future, you can get the Cal-Van seat repair kit. A better repair but requires more tools and time. Good luck to you.
You ain’t a real Ford man until you’ve shot out at least three spark plugs…so get on it! 😝
Jeez they really soaked you for that repair kit. I just bought mine from Napa in upstate New York for $47.00 and they gouged you for $114.00?
I’m sure that they have come way down in price since that era of trucks is slowly being replaced by the new ones.
I have a 2002 Expedition that now has two of the same kits in the head. I just bought the Calvan kit with the new inserts that allow you to use your oem plugs. It’s got a steel sleeve that sets against the flat surface of the cylinder head and a boring bit that cuts a fresh hole that you tap for a new shorter steel insert.
Nice to know I’m not the only one enjoying all the fun of shooting spark plugs out..😝
Yeah, it was a pricey piece, but got me back on the road fast and easy. That engine since has been replaced wirh a new Ford rebuilt engine. 3500+. Been having all sorts of fun provlems with it. We're on the road right now and it's turned into a mechanics dream trip,,, not
Take care.
Thank you for taking the time to upload this.
You're welcome. Hope it helped!
Hey so I have the Same problem but my hole is to big to the point the the new thread socket won’t won’t work to the point it falls down
I had to find a thin wall socket to get the new seat in. Don't remember the brand. I did buy a socket at NAPA but it was to thick to fit in the hole. I hope that answers your question.
I use the same kit lasted for 20,000 miles and started leaking like a loosed spark plug, so I removed it and bought the same kit but instead of using a thread locker I used JB Weld high temp.Now the Expedition is running perfectly again So now I have a spare kit in my Glove comp. Just in case 20,000 miles it leaks air I will be deady
Hi just read your post about repair kit its been 3 years what hPpen still working mine just happen today
Good video Jeff..easy to understand.
It's a good quick easy repair system. If it fails down the road, you can still do the more expensive seat replacement systems.
Better go in dry later the lock tight won’t hold as good cause u have lube on new threads .. I did this but use the professional kit even has a sleeve that guides the tools perfectly aligned
It’s called ford triton spark plug thread repair kit look it up who ever looking to do this job
There is no drilling or machine oil with this fix. You simply use the high temp 500 degree Loxtite on the threads of the self tapping new seat and screw it in till bottoming and that's it, very simpleI have 2 plug repairs 3 and 4 years old and working fine.
That's only for the 2 valve Triton. Different threads in the 3 valve. Broke it off halfway through. Haven't tried to get it out yet.
Triton and 4 valve engines are different. Cal-Van is supposed to be the best repair kit.
Nice vid never seen this kit looks pretty simple
I just did another repair last January 2019 in Las Vegas while on a road trip. Takes all of 15 minutes to do the whole job. Longer for the cylinders closer to the firewall. Take care...
It's pretty simple alright, that is until your socket gets stuck and you cant get back out. Been trying to find a solution to this issue
@@rickhill6426 calvan, or big sert by timesert
Extra long needle nose is what i had to use@@rickhill6426
I have a 2010 ford explorer 4.0 V6 4x4...,,, I bought this say kit from advance auto.... should it work??
TheCladi8or how u make out
I have an 02 Triton 5.4L V8. The 11/16 is too big for the cylinder. Any suggestions?
How about tightening all plugs every 10k miles to make sure they haven't loosened up?
I see a couple torque ratings listed for my 1999 F250 5.4 liter 2 valve engine. Old factory torque 15 ft# and a new rating 25 ft#. I have checked the plugs a couple times using 15 ft# setting and the plugs were that tight, not moving. If somebody wants to check totque, I'd say go for it, set your accurate torque wrench to 15 ft# and turn till it clicks, don't go beyond that tightness. Accept that it's that tight and don't go beyond that.
There is a TSB on this, pretty sure the updated torque is 28 lbs.
Getting a free f150 with a plug blown out would jb weld be m a better option for lasting the life of the engine rather then lock tight
What about the metal shaving ?? I just bought the kit from Napa too, does the piston position matter when putting in the insert ??
Doesn't mattee. The seat only goes in so fat and hits bottom and seats. No shavings. Turn to tighten only, no need to back it out. You can always do a CalVan kit later if needed.
Ok appreciate the info, going hands on on Saturday have a 2002 Lincoln Blackwood with 200,000 miles and one spark plug was just blown out
I did it with the 4.6 just can't get a socket around the adapter only the spark plug and its not down far enough and I already applyd thread locker any help
So when I put the ne sleeve down there it cuts new threads and but lock seize on it put new spark plug in
So if I want to one day remove this NAPA repair kit from the well, how would one go about it? One day I'd like to use the Cal-Van repair method. I think I might be thinking about number #7 every time I try a long drive......
You can. Calvan is larger. Those kits will come out. Hammer tapa to release.
I’ve done 3 repairs on mine. The 3rd broke the steel insert at the thread to the hex head. I’m gonna use easyout to get the threaded portion out and try again. I thought maybe I cranked it down too tight and the plug hit piston but there’s no visible damage on the plug so I’m assuming I over tightened the repair insert and that’s what cracked it and running the engine broke it the rest of the way. Gonna try again tomorrow. The other thing is, the directions with the Dorma brand kit says “high temp sealant”. Not “high temp thread-locker”. So idk whats better. In my situation I’d hate to have thread-lock cause now I gotta try to dig out the broken threaded section. I’ve always used the hi temp thread sealant.
I never had one break on me. I did have one fail. Reinstalling it didn't work but installing a new one did. I also made sure to use the specified red thread which is not normally in the auto parts store. If the kit I'm showing here does completely fail, you can do the seat replacement kit. Since this repair, my engine seized on me. I bought a remanufactured engine that has all new replacement seats that uses normal sparkplugs and is running great.
Did you get the threaded section out? Same thing happened to the shop working on my V10 and they can’t get the section out.
@@hellome530 If Odins Lock doesn't reply, I will guess you may have to pull the head which is involved. Timing cover needs to come off. Your mechanic will have better access access to the plug hole. They could carefully apply heat then use an easy out to remove the broken seat. A reverse easy out may be needed to drive the seat out from the combustion side which will have easier access. If you end up going this route, replace the chain guides with new Ford guides and hydrolic tensioners. I read there are cast iron and composit versions with the composit being prefered. Do your research and good luck with things.
@CITAP1 thanks for the tip. I hope he doesn’t have to pull the head because that’s at least $2500. I was thinking maybe tapping the broken piece out but not sure what other damage it can cause.
Do you find that you have to take off the intake manifold to get better access to the plug hole to make this repair?
No. You'll need a thin wall socket to drive the new seat down. Be sure to use the correct hitemp red thread locker and load the threads up well before installing. Try to clean oils out of there too.
What year and how many miles did it happen to you? I had actually bought one of these kids for, "just in case" im glad you let us know about the thin wall socket! Ill need to get one..
Mine is a 2000 model year built in 99. The first time a plug blew out was at about 170000 miles while on an extended road trip coming home through Tillamook OR. I've had 2 failures, #6, #7, and a repeat on #7. All the failures did happen while under load with the truck camper on. The repeat repair on #7 is doing fine so far after 3 weeks now with the truck camper still on the truck.
th-cam.com/video/Dg6T2wig8yU/w-d-xo.html
@@CITAP1 I have 2004 Expedition 4.6 number 3 spark plug blew out at 65 mph in the freeway. Only 101k miles when it happened.I used a similar kit that you have not Napa but Dorman. brand they look the same as Napa brand.After I installed it and waited 24 hours to cure the Loctite,Test drove it and was noisy hissing noise coming out the cylinder.I had to remove the kit and re insert it but this time I use JB weld instead of Loctite a friend of mine a mechanic suggested . Since then until now 15,000 miles still intact and good.Thank God.
@@efrensaclolo7021 1 of my 2 repairs did fail in Las Vegas. I spent the night in the NAPA parking lot. Bought a new kit. They did not have the high temp red threadlocker but I had the bottle from when I did the first 2 repairs. I tried to reuse the failed seat as it looked fine. It hissed and failed. I had doubts but the new kit has worked fine ever since. I have heard of people using the high temp JB weld with success. Glad to hear you got it working.
Can we do a video how to remove one when it breaks.? 😔
@VileMisanthropy These 2 valve engine plugs don't break. I believe it's the three and four valve engines that break and there are videos by others showing that. My brother successfully used the special removal tool and got his broken plugs out.
@CITAP1 the dorman plug adaptor insert, mine just split and fell apart.
@VileMisanthropy
I got the NAPA kit and can be installed in 15 minutes if you have the parts. I always kept 2 NAPA kits with me and I used a total of 3 kits. I now have a new engine and the CalVan seats for plugs were installed. If you have the time, I recommend the CalVan kit. If you're stuck on the road, the NAPA kit will get you going.
Guys, JB Weld is far better than using People Permatex lock tight if you are using this tool. This will help prevent vacuum and exhaust leaks in the future. Good luck.....
The kit recommends hi temperature Red Loctite. There are others who have used the JB Weld with success they say. If there is a hi temperature JB Weld, I wouldn't have too big an issue using it but remember, you're not installing as recommended.
Do they make a slightly larger sleeve than this ? My issue is that the sleeve in that kit broke and left the threads into the spark plug hole I drilled it out with a 9/16 bit same size as the spark plug threading and got all clean and now another sleeve in the kit won’t catch smh
Oh Man, Sorry you're having trouble. You'll need to go the next step with the Cal~Van Repair kit. It's more involved and expensive but it is the far superior permanent repair. cal-vantools.com/products/ford-triton-spark-plug-thread-repair-kit/ Good luck with it. There are several videos showing the Cal~Van installation.
Brother, it happened again just two months later…
The mechanic had a sleeve and installed it and it came out. I’ve got the Calvin kit and he also said he bought another kit of sleeves. What advice do you have to keep these sleeves staying in? Is there a different sealant that I should be using?
I made sure to get the 400 degree red hi-temp threadlocker. I stuffed a rag down the plug hole with a flat screwdriver and did my best to clean out any dirt and oil in the threads and surrounding areas. I heavily saturated the threads of the new self tapping seat with thread locker. I ran it down till I hit a more solid stop. You have resistance when tapping the seat down and that resistance will suddenly increase when you hit bottom. Leave sit an hour. Instructions say 24 hours, I was in a hurry. After an hour I ran and only idled the engine just long enough to warm it a little then shut off and waited and repeated every 15 minutes for an hour or 4 times. After an additional 15 minutes, I decided to call it good and hit the road. I did the repair on 2 cylinders 3 times. One repair lasted the rest of the engines life. The other lasted 3 years and came loose. I tried to re locktite the seat in but that failed. I bought a new kit and that seat also lasted another couple years till the engine seized due to a crack in the oil sump pickup tube. The kit is a good emergency repair everyone with those Ford engines should keep on hand. The Cal-Van kit is the way to go if you have the option. Good luck with things. My new engine has all new improved seats as part of the rebuild process.
Mines cracked and broke off in the head how to get out now without taking the head off
The plug or the new seat? If the seat, an easy out. If the plug, can't you just get a deep socket on the plug?
The seat broke into pieces and I got some out already with a magnet but it one that doesn’t seams to fit out the hole
@@CITAP1 the seat broke into pieces and I got a couple out already with a magnet but the last piece seems to not be able to come back out the hole
@@nathanscruggs6080 Sorry this seemingly simple project is becoming more of a P in the B for you. I'm guessing it's the NAPA KIT seat that broke apart and a piece is now stuck in the cylinder. The next step I would do is to install a CalVan seat. You will have to drill the spark plug seat hole larger for that seat. After you drill the new hole size through the spark plug opening, you should be able to pull the pieces out through the now larger hole. When you get the pieces cleaned out, tap the new threads and install the CalVan seat. Hopefully everything will work OK. Removing the heads is a challenge. I did it three times replacing head gaskets on this truck. Finally figure the problem was a Ford manufacturing error where the block deck surface mill machine gouged right between the cylinder wall and water jacket. Gaskets would work for three months then fail I got 80 grit sandpaper and a flat block and sanded the left and right side of the block an equal number of passes across the entire surface until a feeler gauge wouldn't fit under a machinist's straightedge. After that, everything worked great until the oil sump tube cracked and I lost oil pressure, seizing the engine within 10 seconds. Now I have a new engine that's working great. That's a few other videos though. OK, hope things work for you this time, best of luck and Take Care...
@@CITAP1 thanks for the good info now I’m about to find a shop that does the cal van install hope all goes well I miss driving my baby
Fabricate .. or .. repair .. daily
Jeff, I have a 2002 Ford F-250 and number 3 position on drivers side blew the boot and I was able to reach in a pull plug out. It apparently had a Napa Repair insert in there ALREADY. Can I use a new Napa repair kit as time is not on my side? I tried to screw in current repair seat but it does not take. Will a NEW NAPA repair kit seat? It looks like the threads on the older kit was not be aggressive enough. I honestly have no idea it was in there and I am the original owner. Where can I get a thin walled 11/16 socket immediately? Did you have to removing any of the breather parts? fuel rail? If I get a Cal-Van kit later on what would I have to remove to get good working space? Eagerly awaiting a reply....
I was able to install a new kit in a cylinder that already had the kit. I put a lot of red hitemp threadlicker on it. I idled the engine about 15 mi utes to warm it then shut doun to let the heat setup the new seat. I repeated after the engine cooled warming it again but not driving. I started driving after 2 hours and thenew kit lasted a couple years till the enging seized when the oil pickup cracked. The second kit worked for me, it may work for you. Can't hurt to try, and if it doesn't work, go to the CalVan kit which is the best way.
I don't recall where I got the thin wall socket, Craftsman. I was able to work around the fuel rail ok.
@@CITAP1 So, here it is Sunday after a crushing defeat on Saturday. Pondering a tow to the local shop or having a last chance go at it. I went down to NAPA, got the repair kit. Fun Fact: the 11/16 sockets doesn't fit in the well. Spoke to an old time mechanic, he said "grind down the outside of the 11/16 socket.........and it WORKED! So apparently the largest socket that will fit in the well is a 5/8". I put Red Loctite on the threads and turned it and it went in. I cranked on it until it snugged up. I have learned never to celebrate until its running so I will just let it set overnight. We'll see.
Tomorrow I put the spark plug in with anti-seize. Fingers crossed.
So how do you remove the boot portion of the coil pack so that I can re-fit the smaller boot on it?. Do I just wiggle it off the Motorcraft?
@@patrickwhelan5703 The boot just turns and pops off. The NAPA sockets wouldn't fit but another brand did and it might have been a 12 point. Sounds like you have everything going right. Let me know how tonorrow works out. Good luck.
@@CITAP1 Haha. If I was lucky, I'd have won the lottery by now. I'd like to think it's a skill set, some perseverance, some sage advice and the willingness to succeed. The TH-cam videos have helped as well, especially yours. The truck is a NY original but for the last 4 years we're down in Florida.
Have you had to replace a Master Cylinder in the Ford yet?
Does the different size spark plug cause misfires?
No, the one I got in my repair kit was a quality platinum plug.
@@CITAP1 this happened on my crown Vic 2009 p71 i know they have repair kits for the 2000 gt and and ford f150 4.6 it’s the same engine so will it work
@zurielthompson5715 Be sure if you have a 2 or 3 valve engine. Verify your installation parts. Probably the same, but you never know.
@@CITAP1 It’s a 2 valve only the maruader is a 4 valve
Thinking of buying 1996 UK Ford transit camper diesel automatic
Fix
Or
Repair
Dailly
Its nice condition, retired couple had it for years now husband has dementia
If your ready for some travel, do it. Don't put off life, for too long.
Don't know if you caught my latest videos, but the truck's engine has seized on me now due to oil pump failure. I'm installing a new engine in a couple days . The old engine had 250K miles, nothing lasts forever, a good run. Hope things workout for you on the Transit.
@@CITAP1 transit has 400000km
Travelled since 1984 but cheap hotels and hostels (waste of money)
Station wagon since July 2018 (saved a fortune)
Yes started watching last week waiting for tow truck
@@Kiwionwing 400K km is a fair amount of use. At that point it's not just the engine but transmission, suspension and other parts too unless already maintained. I guess you'll have to take a good look at the Transit and see if you can get comfortable with it and it's potential future. For me, Lots of work has already been done to my truck. It's future weak points are the transfer case, transmission, U-Joints, Intermediate bearing on driveshaft, entire brake system - 4 calipers + master cylinder. The engine is 3000.00 and the other parts I listed about another 5000.00. A newer truck would cost 30 to 50 thousand. It's cheaper to Fix Or Repair Daily this truck I figure....
Well good, sounds like you're a traveled soul. It's amazing the vehicles we can make due with traveling. I used to travel in a Ford Ranger I built a blue tarp canopy over and setup a bed and cooler with storage and had some great times traveling in that.
Your napa is expensive. The one near me has them for 68
Had this issue with a 01 f150 5.4 and this kit can’t catch the treads😭
You may have to go to a Cal-Van kit. It's a better fix anyway and not horribly difficult to install.
Something like this
www.ebay.com/itm/375287320826?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-213727-13078-0&mkcid=2&itemid=375287320826&targetid=4580771614374522&device=c&mktype=&googleloc=&poi=&campaignid=603418347&mkgroupid=1234752561360745&rlsatarget=pla-4580771614374522&abcId=9323204&merchantid=51291&msclkid=635306a83fb81d25d49d634368434307
@@CITAP1 was just trying to find a quick fix due to it leaving me stranded otw to work😂 will try that out
@@TheIceNation001 I had that happen to me on the way to work. The fix worked and I was on my way in about 20 minutes. Sounds like you engine just had a good blow out.
@@CITAP1 ended up finding a different set that did the job we all good and on the road
@@TheIceNation001 Good deal!
Is PermaTex, high temperature, thread sealant, the same as thread locker?
I ended up getting the thread locker permatex 27200
I believe sealant is a silicon material and threadlock is something different. It can be confusing. There are a couple red thread lockers and many times, the correct hi temp 400C threadlock isn't in stock.
Yeah it's amazing it's a faulty design and I've had to fix mine three times where is Ford at in all that s***.
Ford=zzzzzzzzzzz planned obsolescence at its worst. They all do it.
I mean, I’m hearing everything but how to tap and rethread a spark plug hole in a tight spot
The new seat has a cutter built into it. Loa the threads up with the correct hi temp red thread lock, use a deep socket and put it down the hole start tightening and go forward only, no back and forward like a regular tap. Tighten down till it feels tighter and stops turning easily. The front holes are easy. 4, 5, 8, not so easy. Having a combination of extension lengths for best position helps.
Did you replace the coil also? It looked like new coils on your previous repairs but you didn't mention it here. What do I do with the old coil to make it stay on?
I did replace the old coils with NAPA coils. You can get by with using the old coil if it stays in place. I used my old coils for a while till I bought new ones and screwed them back down to the intake manifold.
I use the same coil by gluing the ear that broke still screwed in the same spot and still works to this day.
I did this and now the socket is stuck in the hole and cannot for the life of me get bnb it out and don't know what to do. Any advice?
At the napa or other auto store, I bought a set of probing tools. I used one with a quarter inch 90 degree bend to stick down the hole in through the square drive opening and was able to pull the socket out. Should be able to do the same with any stiff wire with a small bend to hook and pull.
www.napaonline.com/en/p/CHQ60003?cid=paidsearch_shopping_dcoe_google&&gclid=CjwKCAjwt-L2BRA_EiwAacX32Xrr0iIVrRQvT1wuoBlcv7yyubsgKyNjZe0zEwjRXh-nsdR9HrB39RoCYiIQAvD_BwE
Those things are junk they will crack after about 30,000 miles and blow the spark plug out of the repair plug
Did you replace the ignition coil or were you able to use the old one with the new shorter extension. I saw the end of the video and it shows you purchased a new coil. Was it need for this repair?
Usually when the plug blows out of the head, it breaks the mounting tab on the coil. The coil will still work but won't mount on the intake manifold. Whether you need a new coil or can still use the same one, you'll need to replace the stock plug boot and spring with the new shorter ones in the kit.
@@CITAP1Just blew the 3rd one on the drivers side. 2nd time blowing. Will this kit work for 2nd or 3rd repair on the same cylinder?
@@jeffs1749 I had a failure this last January as I was leaving Las Vegas. Swung into NAPA and got a kit. They did not have the high temp red thread locker but I had an old tube of it in my tool kit along with an extra seat repair kit. First, I tried to reinstall the failed seat but it failed. I then tried the new seat I had in my kit and it has been working fine ever since. So you can use the repair twice on one cylinder. I haul heavy loads in my truck so it bets hard duty use. If it does fail again, you can step up to one of the kits you drill out install an actual new seat. The method I show is a lot cheaper and easier and is a good first attempt repair.
@@jeffs1749 Is your engine a first model year? Those were the worst for the Blowout problem.
@@CITAP1 Its a 2001 F150 Supercrew
Thanks 🍺🍺🍺
Is thier a kit for the 4.6?
I think so. Check with the counter person to be certain.
Just got the kit from Napa. They do have it for the 4.6
@@BESTEAGLESFAN4EVER great! Before you screw in the seat, you should take a terri cloth rag with a generous shot of brake cleaner on it with a long flat screwdriver and turn it through the threads a couple times to remove any oil contamination from the threads. Do it a couple times till clean then a dry run to dry the threads. Blake cleaner does dry fast so wait a while before proceeding. Be sure you have the correct hi temperature red threadlock, part number should be in the instructions, I also provide it in the video and the about text. I loaded my threads on the seat way up completely. When you start turning in the seat, it will have about the same resistance all the way in increasing a little as you go. When you hit bottom, it will be a fairly positive stop. While you're waiting for the seat or seats to setup, take the opportunity to check and retork the other sparkplugs. They have a tendency of coming lose and blowing out too. I short cutted and idled the engine for 10 minutes to heat things up to dry faster. No driving but a little mild revving then shutdown another couple hours. After that, I drove several thousand miles till the engine seized due to loss of oil pressure. That's another set of videos. OK, best of wishes to your success.
How important is the high temp sealant? Advance auto didn't suggest using it?
The Installation instructions say to use the high temp red thread locker. Also put some anti seize on the spark plug threads. Thread locker will keep the new seat in place. Anti seize will help prevent the seat from breaking loose and backing out if you ever change the spark plug. I'd follow directions. Be sure you get the high temperature thread locker from Loctite. I have two of these kits installed and both working fine. Good luck.
@@CITAP1 ok thanks. I just have another question.. How long after installing does the sealant take to be cured and ok to drive?
I drove my first repair after about an hour and the send repair almost immediately since the engine was still warm
Extremely
How long did you have the truck before having to change 2 of them?
This is a hard working truck carrying construction materials and about 4000 pounds of truck camper and supplies with two people. Most vehicles will never have this level of use. The first one blew on a camp trip near Tillamook Oregon. We limped into town and camped near the NAPA store. I probably had 150k on the truck at the time. The second blew a couple years later at close to 200k miles. Both times I was on the road in 15 minutes. The engine finally died after a couple months on the road when the oil sump pickup tube and the engine lost pressure seizing within 10 seconds. The replacement engine has had all the sparkplug seats replaced and an improved oiling system. Truck is still going great.If you have the time and money, the CalVan kit is the better way to go. If you do this NAPA kit, you can still do the CalVan kit later since it needs to be drilled and tapped to a larger size.
I hear people saying that this kit don’t last long did you have any problems after that
I used the kit in two cylinders and the kits worked fine for several years. I had one kit fail while on a road trip in Las Vegas. I got another kit and replaced the failed kit. Keep in mind this truck is a hard working truck hauling heavy loads most people never will. It also is used for a 3000 pound truck camper a lot. With stuff, the truck is carrying around 4500 pounds + during camping and road trips. This particular time happened while I was driving through the Southwest where speed limits are 80 MPH which is a big demand on a truck carrying that load and pushing through the air at those speeds for hours a day in warm weather. Frankly, I'm amazed the kits lasted as well and long as they did. The replacement kit lasted till the engine seized a few months later when the oil pump failed at 250000 plus miles. If you are just using a daily driver and not carrying heavy loads, I would bet the kit will last the vehicles remaining life. Just follow the kit directions and be sure to use the proper 500 degree high temperature Red Thread Locker the store usually does not stock, not the lower temp red they usually stock. These kits were all installed while I was on the road away from home somewhere, real life savers. I kept a kit in the truck after the first blow out and it sure came in handy on the side of the highway where I installed it in about 15 minutes and went on my way. I know the kit says let set 24 hours but I didn't have 24 hours, I'm working. My third replacement was done in a NAPA parking lot where I did let is setup 4 hours. I did idle the engine to heat things up and speed the dry time. I figured since the engine would just be idling, The pressures wouldn't be as great as if I was on the road with all the weight and pushing 70 MPH. Good luck with it.
CITAP1 thank you sir,
I found a better way , instead of loctite thread locker, I used JB weld around the sleeve of the new insert.Wait 24 hours and you are set for 20k miles.Thread won't seal.It will suck air and trigger po 171 and po 174 vacuum leak code.Intake manifold leak or bank too lean because it is sucking air.
There are people that used the JB high temp weld. I have the specified thread locker and am still doing fine with it with over 20K miles of hard duty use in my truck.
@@CITAP1 I used the same method you did, but weeks later it trigger cel too lean in bank 1 po 171 so I pulled it out and reinstall it using JB weld and it lasted for 20,000 miles when it start leaking again so I re do the same process with JB weld and maybe in the next 20,000 miles it will leak again I would have enough money to buy a newer Expedition.But I want to thank you for posting such a wonderful video,God bless.
@@efrensaclolo7021 Thank you and The Lords Blessings be upon you and your family as well. I had to re-repair 1 of mine too passing through Las Vegas. It lasted another year till my oil sump tube cracked and caused my engine to seize instantly. Bought and installed a new engine and been working great. Take care...
@@CITAP1 I should add for your subscribers that I used the same coil pack,I reattached the ear with JB weld and until this time it is still at work.Also I may add that my 2004 Expedition is 4.6 2valve and yours is 5.4 2valve and this works on both Ford Triton engines.Also install the spark plug inside the tap and just installed it in one piece.God Bless my friend.
@@efrensaclolo7021 If you can reattach the dog ear, great, there is nothing wrong with the coil otherwise unless obviously damaged. Best wishes...
Dont do it unless you are selling vehicle do it correctly I have seen many of these fail
Will that tool to make new threads work on a 2002 Ford F-150 ?
This repair drives through what's left of the existing threads after a Blowout. It taps threads and seats in one step. Use a generous amount of the red 400+ degree thread locker to seat and set in place. Let setup 24 hours, les if engine is warm or hot when the repair is made. First time after setup, I'd run the engine at idle to get to running temp, then let cool to try and be sure the repair is set. I believe this kit works on all the 2 valve aluminum heads but talk to the parts person giving all the information about your vehicle to be sure you get the correct repair kit.
This repair works great for normal use. If you haul heavy loads and run the engine above 4000 rpm, the chance of failure over a couple years is possible. My repair failed just a few days ago while on a trip carrying my truck camper and revving the engine over mountain passes. I redid the repair with a new seat and it has worked fine under heavy demand for 1500 miles now.
The nice thing is, if this kit fails, you can do a true reseat repair at a later date.
Can you change the new spark plug when you do a tune up?
I haven't tried. The plug with the kit is rated for 100 thousand miles. With anti seize on the threads, You should be able to.
What about adjusting gap on the plug
@@urbandriven9331
The plug is a Platinum plug and gap is non adjustable. If you look at the tip of the plug, it has a U shape anode of metal going around the electrode in the center. I have two of these repair kits on my engine and they are working fine at about 50K miles.
Now I will say one of the kits failed on me and I had to replace the seat with another of the same. The failure happened in Las Vegas on a month long camp trip. I was hauling a 3000 pound plus truck camper and doing 70-75 MPH on Arizona and Nevada highways. The engine was under a lot of demand and I sure the original kit only failed because of the demand placed on it. I have about 10K on the new kit and still working fine. When I pulled out the old plug, you could see the ware on it but it was still serviceable.
You don't have to . That is platinum plugs. Can last 150k miles before changing.If you drive that much yes you could change it that is what the anti seize is for .
Don't waste your time with that c*** it blows out get the celvin kit I did all 8 of them on my 54 Triton haven't had a single issue
The Cal-Van kit is superior no doubt. But when you're dead on the side of the road with buzzards flying over, you'll want this kit in your bag of tricks. No special tools needed. I got several thousand miles from the kit, no issue.
Will this work on a 2000 f 150 4.6 v8??
I think it's the same kit. Check with a NAPA parts counter person to be sure. If the 4.6 and 5.4 liter engines use the same spark plugs, it should be the same kit.
@@CITAP1 thank you
The plugs near the firewall are a B🤬TCH to get to! This happened to me after I let Ford dealership fix my truck... Pull out the dealership, and all of a sudden it won't shift pass 3rd! No time to fix... I'm driving around in 2 going 60mph. BANG! CLACKCLAKCLAK.......
What did the dealer do? I don't think a dealer would use this kit. The dealer would use either a Ford kit or a CAL-VAN kit. cal-vantools.com/products/ford-triton-spark-plug-thread-repair-kit/ Hope you get things back to working again. Nothing worse than not having your ride.
@@CITAP1 little confusing to read. Took my 03 F150 5.4 V8 Lariat to the dealer to remove alarm (disabled truck) and replace frozen ac clutch. $1500 later I get it back broke. Solenoid B failing, won't shift to 3rd. Kicker is instead of removing the alarm like I said they put a paperclip in the connector, wires all hanging........ raised hell that day. Spark plug blew day after as I refused to let them touch my truck and pushed 2nd to hard. That 03 lariat is a beast.
@@GodsMushroom Not sure I understand the problem but sounds terrible. Sorry you're getting hit with bad workmanship like this. Hope you get it worked out.
i don't understand why ford sold this crappy engine for so many years when they knew it was defective. the three valve was worse
Another thing that makes me shake my head is the chronic intake manifold leak at the front right. I posted a fix for that that has been working well for about a month now.
New engines are powerful and clean running, but the 60s engines were the most fun to work on and race.
Take care.
I did this and the socket got stuck in the spark plug tube
I bought a set of probing tools with various bent ends. About 10 inch shaft length. I stuck them down into the plug hole, into the socket drive opening, and was able to pull the socket out easily.
@@CITAP1 thanks I’ll give that a try
In case you can reply immediately I want to write you and tell you thank you for your video and ask a very important question at the moment for me. If the kit is in without Loctite What do you recommend?
I'm having an issue putting it in due to the socket not fitting in the block
If you screwed the new seat down and it made a good solid stop at the bottom, I'd consider a wait and see approach. You could back it out and apply the correct high temp red thread locker. The trick with that is you need to be certain to not cross thread when you reinstall the seat kit. I did have one of my two kits fail on me down in Las Vegas traveling through there. I stopped in at a NAPA store, got a new seat kit and installed it after removing the failed kit. I was careful and made sure I found the threads the original kit made so as not to cross thread and was able to install a second repair kit for that spark plug. The second repair worked immediately and lasted until the engine died from loss of oil pressure a year later. Remember, there is a specific thread locker and it can be hard to find. I have seen other TH-cam videos where they used high temperature JB WELD instead. I don't know how it worked in the long term for them. Hope that helps.
CITAP1 fortunately I am at a mechanic. I told him that I think that the Loctite is essential… He backed out the kit put the Loctite high temp thread locker… And reinstalled it. Now do I have to wait? Waiting for your recommendations
@@jberg37 You need to get a thin wall socket. A 12 point should do it. I think I used either a craftsman or husky to do mine. You may also need an automotive pick with a 90 degree end to hook the socket to get it out if the extension pops out of the socket, Automotive stores have them in a pack of 5 with different tip styles for about 8 bucks. the pick should be 10 to 12 inches long.
@@joshuacox5263 The kit says to wait 24 hours for the thread locker. I waited an hour, then idled the engine to get it warm, then shut down for half an hour, then started again, let it warm up and went on my way with no issues. That has always been while carrying my truck camper so there was a good load on the engine and it turned out well, lasted for a few years till the truck engine finally died. I will say if you were at a mechanic shop, I would have gone for the CalVan seat replacement kit. It's more involved but as I understand, it's the best of all the repair options. What you have though will work fine and I wouldn't lose any sleep over it. As I said, my truck gets heavy use most vehicles will never know and these kits worked great.
0:40 that is a concession to "automation" that turned out poorly.
(It would bankrupt fomoco to admit and fix, so they simply couldn't)
As some would say, it is what it is.
but fixable thru inserts.
Peace.
There are so many engineering flaws in vehicles... Manufacturers can design something to last or they can design it to work. They have the costs all figured out... Take care,,,
Besides that the spark plugs that he is using are the wrong one for a 5.4 y'all should no this that is if u change ur own spark plugs
Pay attention, the plugs come with the new seat kit along with a shorter rubber plug boot and spark plug coil spring. That's how this kit works.
Hello what is the kit called and where can I buy it
I showed the instructions near the beginning of the video and on the box at this time in the video.
th-cam.com/video/PWyw_gxNQ4Y/w-d-xo.html
The NAPA part number shows in both parts of the video and is available at NAPA Auto Parts Stores. #600-3248
www.napaonline.com/en/p/NDP6003248
NAPA also sells replacement coils if you need that too.
Good luck with your engine.
@@CITAP1 ok thanks a lot
I did this fix and it lasted 30 miles and blew out
Yeah, there are many variables and results will be different. I had one not blow out, but I could hear it leaking after a couple years, so I installed a new kit which worked till the engine seized on me due to a cracked oil sump pickup tube. If you have the time and tools, the CAL-VAN kit is the way to go. My new engine has all new improved seats in it. Hope you get it resolved quickly.
bet unfortunatly my issue is in the back
A little harder to reach but doable.
O'Reilly auto has them for 59.00
I have a new engine since then. The new heads have new steel plug seats which are like the CalVan seat. Should never have this problem again.
Having a problem finding a thin wall socket that will fit! Any suggestions would be appreciated
Usually a cheap 12 point deep socket will do it.
Any trick on popping the new spark spring into the new coil
@@SDMFTommySick You just press it on over the little tab, may take some effort but you want the tight fit. The little metalic rod inside the spring I believe does a couple things, concentrates the magnetic lines to transfer more energy into the spark plug and reduce radio noise interference. When you get the spring on, slip the boot over it and the boot does attach to the coil in a specific way that should become obvious. Hope it all works out for you.
@@CITAP1 just kind of put the spring in there my problem was the spring I was removing kind of got all twisted up because it was really attached in there and I couldn't get the new spring attached that tight. I just got the job done truck started right up just went down to the gas station and back so far not haven't but much of a load on it. I do want to thank you for posting this video I know it was a while ago that you posted it. You & the video have been a lifesaver thank you very much. Funny thing is I work on race cars all the time never had to deal with these coil packs like this..
@@SDMFTommySick Awesome! Makes my day knowing I helped someone. I've done a few older Ford and Pontiac engines. I appreciate the straightforward honesty of a carburetor and dual point distributor.
Does this works on Ford 4.6
I think it does but check with the parts person to be sure.
Great thanks will do
I don't know about "easy fix". 1st you need the right tools to fix it. On my 2002 ford Triton you definitely need a adjustable wrench. You got to find the hole that it came out of. You got to take apart the wire leading to the coil. You got to put the spark plug in without restriping it. etc. A person with no knowledge about cars would have a hard time finding this
This video deals with the two valve engine. You don't need an adjustable wrench. The coil merely unplugs, then use I think an 8mm socket to unscrew and remove the coil. Remove the spark plug, install the self tapping seat, install the new H1 plug, finished. The two valve engine is simple.
I am a mailman and no mechanical knowledge and I have done this successfully.5 years later today it is still no issue still in tact.
Kinda beyond me, but good to know, so thanks! Would you buy a newer Ford now? I'm going round and round between Chevy, Dodge, Ford, new, used, gas, diesel...
I dunno. Need a one ton dually.
I wanted the diesel for years but have changed my mind in favor of the large gas engine because it's a lot cheaper and easier to fix. While it works and gets me where I'm going, I consider my 5.4 liter too small for the weight of the truck camper and going up into the mountainous places I like to camp. Now if you are going to get a big heavy truck camper and do some towing, then you're better off going diesel. If you're pulling that much weight, I'd say go dually too. I'm happy with the super cab but if you need the storage or passenger space and don't mind the wide turning radius, get the crew cab. I'd also stick with the automatic. All truck brands are going to eventually have problems so just accept that. I'm still sticking with the FORD. There have been engine and other problems but all were fixable by me. So far the transmission suspension and the rest of the truck haven't failed me,,, yet... When you're ready to jump, go, and you'll just figure out issues along the way. don't deprive yourself longer than necessary to get your ducks lined up and get your truck and camper. You don't have to start out with the perfect rig, just get something acceptably nice and use it till you're ready to get what you really want. A used rig keeps it's value well so you should get your money back out when your ready to get the one you really want. Take care...
Bla bla bla no action. We just go to the school now we are ready to go to the truck shop thanks
Easy maybe, long lasting, definitely not!!!! Do it right. Get the cal van kit.
I got a few years of heavy hauling the truck camper up and down the mountains not to mention all the loads of construction demolition. It's fast and easy to install anywhere, anytime and you can always do a calvan kit later.
worst piece of junk you could ever use Cal Van do'es the best job ever your tool your talking about do'es not come with a line up tool to keep it straight don't bother with that product.
The deep socket functions as a lineup tool. The Cal Van is the way to go but it's much more involved and this kit can get you running in 15 minutes even 20 miles in on a dirt road in Death Valley. You can always install the Cal Van kit later back in civilization.
Why not use the kit that has a tap and an inesert (similar to heli-coil but better), then your plug sits down in the combustion chamber like stock. and you can use a stock coil. And they don't break off or leak. The original problem is Ford only tapped the very bottom of the plug hole (about 4-5 threads) go figure?
The CalVan kit is the good one. This repair can be done in 15 minutes in the middle of nowhere. You can always install the CalVan kit later when you have access to a bunch of tools. Consider the kit I show as cheaper than a tow home from 1500 miles away. That was my situation. Take care.
@@CITAP1 Ok, that makes more sense if your stuck. The cal van is much like some of the other insert kits. That one that sticks up from the hole kinda reminds me of the old spark plug anti fouling things you could screw in.
pushrods forever
The new 7.4 gasser.
Please don't use these kits. They are a temporary fix at best. Get you a calvan 38900 kit and do it the right way. So many of these fail within 1000 miles it's not worth it.
If you're stuck out in the desert or on a long lonely highway with little traffic at night, this kit will get you to civilization. For me, hauling a 3000 pound truck camper and another 1000 pounds of gear, these kits lasted me for years. The nice thing is if it fails a new kit will work, it did for me. If you do want to upgrade to the Cal-Van kit, you can. No doubt the Cal-Van kit is superior but as long as this kit is working, don't fix if it ain't broke. Take care...
It been 5 years on my 4.6 2valve Expedition and 15,000 miles still no issue.So you are wrong Chris.Only $45 + tax in Autozone I SAVED a lot,Dealership wants more th an a$1000 using Calvin kit.I did it for $45 arssaved $1000. Oh plus JB weld $5 I used instead of thread locker.Iam not a mechanic USPS carrier 30years.
Citap1,I carry a spare since I saw your video.But I doubt it to need it soon I only drive less than 3,000 a year now that Iam retired from USPS.
@@efrensaclolo7021 It gave me peace of mind having a spare and I actually did need and use it on my way to a project one morning. 15 minutes and back on the road. It's like insurance, you never know when you need it. Take care,
Avoid. At all costs.
Why does this guy sound like Ron Swanson from parks and Recreation’s.🤔
That's funny. I never watched the show but the guy even shares my mustache. Take care...
Wrong again... The cause is part of the calibration.... If you don't update the calibration you will have a second failure.... The failure is always in the cylinders where the EGR is added to the intake...
There is the Gremlins theory.
@@CITAP1 Read the TSB.... But you know it all.... pound sand
Are you talking about 2004 and newer engines with the 2 piece plugs that break apart during removal? This is a 2000 5.4 Liter truck engine with no per cylinder smog devices. It does have an EGR valve which connects after the throttle butterfly valves feeding to all cylinders
If you have a service bulletin link to show, sure I'd like to see it. I'm not professing to be an expert, just showing how I fixed mine which is still working flawlessly.
@@CITAP1 No this is not the threads breaking off, this is the blow out that takes the threads... Run the Vin on the OASIS program... Most dealers will do it for you... By the way that fix is not an authorized fix and without the re-calibration it too will fail.... I was a field engineer for Ford Motor Co for 30 years and did some of the research into this failure....
@@edofstad9675 I'm not following you on recalibrating. Recalibrating what? My heads are the improved heads with 5 turns of sparkplug threads. The pre 1999 heads if I recall correctly, were the very problematic heads with 3 turns of thread. These NAPA repair kits are quick and easy to install. This is a working truck frequently carrying heavy loads including a truck camper. One failure was while under load. The other failure, a couple years later was not. I think the first repair is 5 years old now. That's a pretty good span of service. I've had alternators, water pumps, compressors, and other components to the engine fail with shorter intervals and have much higher levels of difficulty to repair. Given the simplicity, performance, price, and reliability this kit has provided, I call it a winner. If it ever fails, I will install a new seat.
Ford should be sued for this defective engine
I hear you. One thing they say is to periodically check the tightness of your spark plugs. With so few threads, the plugs are prone to loosening and backing out and over time with the combustion slamming them in the threads, the threads wear out and you get the infamous blowout. As a preventative, take a torque wrench to each plug and check it for 13 to 15 pounds torque.
It should be only a 5 min video and not 20min..... stop talking and just do the repair.
You can always fast forward and search for the parts you need to see. A lot of people aren't so mechanically inclined and need all the details. You can't please everyone!
All anyone needs to know is, Remove spark plug, screw down and bottom out new repair seat with hi-temp red thread lock on it. Wait 24 hours. Screw in new spark plug and reconnect coil. Drive away.
Long winded and no useful info....
I admit it's not a popup book but I try to be thorough in the information I give delivering tips and tricks on tools, materials, and how to do the repair. The only thing in this video that might be better is showing installing the new seat. I figure most people have turned a wrench and tightened down a bolt. That is essentially what this repair is. Putting High Temp Red Loctite on the new seat and running it down till it stops. It's a good easy fast repair that has held up well for me. My truck gets much heavier regular use than most peoples trucks ever will. If you do need to do this repair, I still recommend and stand behind it. Good luck...
Waste of time watching this video
Why is that?
@@CITAP1 because of the title of the video. I thought this was going to be a walk through of how to re tap the threads, but it's all talk
OK, there isn't much to show for re-tapping the sparkplug hole. The new seat taps threads as you tighten it down into the head. (If for some reason this kit fails to work, you can go the next step and get a drill, tap, and re-seat type of kit.) You simply get the NAPA kit I show, you have to have the high temperature red thread locker. Clean the threads as best you can. Brake cleaner and any way you can reach down the hole to clean the threads. Spray onto your cleaning impliment, not down into the cylinder. Load generously red thread locker onto the new self tapping seat. You need a thin wall socket and extension to get into the hole. Start turning / tightening the new seat in and keep tightening till it has a solid stop. Tighten only, do not loosen. Let it setup a couple hours. Reassemble the coil with the new short rubber boot and connecting spring. You're good to go and if you have all the parts, it should only take 15 minutes. It's very quick and simple. I have 3 of these on my engine now and they work great. Others have had good results too. Sorry I don't show tightening it in. Only have 2 hands but it's just tightening it in like anything else you tighten down. Hope this helps, good luck...
@@CITAP1 any information is helpful at this point because this will be my first attempt this weekend. I appreciate the reply, thank you for reaching out.
Hello Bryan, I am interested to hear if you used the kit and how your result was.
Thanks