These are the Parts and Tools I recommend: Best 2v Spark Plug Insert Kit- amzn.to/2Js80Zy High Temp High Strength Thread Sealant- amzn.to/2LWKthK Long Reach Air Wand- amzn.to/2sBseqb Basic Endoscope- amzn.to/2svNcXk Tap Magic- amzn.to/2Jj5em8 Milwaukee 3/8" Electric Ratchet- homedepot.sjv.io/c/1245131/459920/8154?prodsku=202957709&u=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.homedepot.com%2Fp%2FMilwaukee-M12-12-Volt-Lithium-Ion-Cordless-3-8-in-Ratchet-Kit-W-1-1-5Ah-Battery-Charger-Tool-Bag-2457-21%2F202957709
I have a Ford escape 2014 = 1.6 engine and the Dealer says I need a new engine because the block broke and it's leaking oil into the Cylindre 2 and 3. Do you know if this is a common problem on other Ford escapes ?
I have a few questions. From what I understand the 3v plugs break and the 2v plugs blown out. Does the 2v plug break also and is there a new plug design for the 2v that prevents the plug from blowing out, like an extended threaded plug? Same for the 3v is there a new plug design to stop the plugs from breaking, like a 1 piece plug.?
@@gabrielshirk I have done this insert/fix on my 99 Triton 6.8 2 valves engine, I have learned that these 2v engine plugs will get blown out, not broken and not the plug problem, it's the aluminum head design that has only about 4 threads to hold the spark plug, plus Ford recommendation of [only] 13 lb/ft of torque for the plugs that allow the plugs to get loose over time and blown out, stripping out the aluminum engine thread with them. The easy prevention is to re-torque all plugs to 22-25 lb/ft, that much torque won't strip out the engine thread.
I have just retired from 45 years of twisting a wrench. I have been to many seminars, factory schools, etc. I have repaired many spark plug threads using this kit. I have never seen a better tutorial on this subject than yours. Thanks for restoring my faith in you tube tutorials, at least in yours.
I don't know squat about working on engines, but I used this exact kit and followed this guy's instructions on this video and it worked like a charm! Two years ago and it is still running great on the 4.6 L engine. I was just jacked out of my mind with excitement for doing this myself. FordTechMakuloco is THE BEST!!! Thank you so much!
Nice bro I took my 6.8 L to a shop and number 8 blew out on me 😮they said I need a new motor $12,000 😅 then I had another mechanic tell me no just to get this kit and he’d charge 2,200$ and or buy new head I guess for same price ?
Scratch that....save 10 cents and eliminate the holes. Engineer: then the truck wont run?... General Office: Slap a battery in it and charge twice as much for the truck...Engineer: Batteries cost too much. General Office: let me check with Corporate eggheads.....Okay, Eggheads said eliminate 1/2 the spark plug holes and add turbo's until we figure out the cost issue on the batteries....charge three times what the truck is worth...add a couple more cheap smart phone ports to make the stupid public think they are getting a deal for the huge price increase. Man, my bonus is going to be HUGE this year!! Hahahaha
Don’t think this was a cost saving measure. I think it was either poor setup or an engineer not knowing they were using a tapered tap. It was explained to me that when they tapped the holes, they used a tapered tap. If you tell the computer to make a number of turns based on the entire length of the tap, you won’t make threads until you get to full diameter of the tap. The first 1/4 inch taper is a starting guide. If they had just made 3 more turns, the entire hole would have been threaded.
@@yqwgjsg That makes total sense. But who in their right mind thought it would be a good process for spark plugs ? Some genius thought he could create a hybrid pipe thread perhaps ?
Being a fellow Ford guy I can say for all of us we are greatly appreciative of the information you provided us with the hands on side I watch your videos some times as a refreshing when I haven't done something in a while
1excellent video . Here’s a few tips that aren’t covered. 1) never use power to tap anything. 2) you should always turn the tap backwards 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn to break the new cut chips when you’re tapping the new threads that are accumulated in the flutes of the tap. Especially on aluminum. It takes one sliver to jam up on the new cut threads and destroy the threads you just cut. 3) use a non oil cutting agent . Loctite doesn’t like oil . Just some tips from a machinist .
Cannot one just use brake clean to get rid of the cutting oil before putting the insert in? I too was surprised he didn't back the tap out every revolution of the tap as I do. I usually 360-degree in and then 180-degree back out.
I performed this repair with the kit recommended here. The day of the repair I started my 1,278 mile trip from California back home. My 2000 F350 V10 hummed the whole way. More power, less engine noise. Great video, everything worked as you demonstrated. Thanks.
Thomas Smith yeah another case of a jackass with a tiny bit of knowledge who thinks he’s god. But yeah before they blow out the cylinder will slowly lose compression so yes Robert you jackass you will lose power haha
Just had a spark plug blow out on my van after driving 500 miles away from home , going to tackle this project soon. Thank you for excellent tutorial !
Man loco guy that video was spot on. Felt like a pro at it and never done it. Spend the money on the tool and you weren’t lying. It literally took me all of about 20 minutes ty
An hour per insert for me, electric ratchet, but my air is just a Harbor Freight pancake so I had to wait 5 minutes between blasts of air that lasted about 5 seconds.
There's no shame in going slow and being careful if you are new to a process, better than going off cocksure that you're flawless and turning a small repair into a large disaster brother!
Half a day or so to get your car to your HOME/GARAGE TOOL SHOP! Half a day to get to the Auto parts store for a new plug and specialty tools and meterials (inserts) Half a day to get your engine clean and apart! [15 minutes to drill/ tap!] Half a day to get together again! The first one I blew (driver side front) I did it this way! 6 months ago! I blew the third one back on the left yesterday! I can't get in to drill it, the firewall is in the way! So I bought a new spark plug $6 And check fit it! It seems to have bit good! So I took it out and put some J&B WELD on it and CRANKED IT BACK IN! I'M 58 YEARS OLD LIFE LONG MR. FIX IT MECHANICAL/ELECTRICAL/PLUMBER/WELDER/ BLUE PRINT READING/ DRAWING DRAFTER I'M GIVING THE GOOP A DAY TO CURE! BUT THE WHOLE PROBLEM PROBABLY START TO FINISH 3 DAYS [15 MINUTES TO SCREW IN THE J&B thread coated new spark plug!] Another hour or so to get the motor back together! Tomorrow I'll attach the battery cable and see what happens!🤨
Awesome video. I had a plug to blow out but that kit is $250 which in this economy is a lot for a single income with a family of 5. But love this video. It’s a great help
But, it’s worth it because it works for more that 1 blown plug. I purchased a kit as a single mom but was so glad I did because it saved me over $1500. My truck blew the #8 plug which was a biotch to get to🤣
Thank you so much for posting this. Had a plug blow #7 on my wifes 2000 F150 with the 5.4 Triton. Just got my calvan kit today & not gonna lie I was a little nervous about tackling this project. You're video has made me feel more confident about the process.
FordTechMakuloco you have saved me so many times i can not express my gratitude for the work you've put in here. Planet ford Spring Tx quoted me 7,200 plus for one side head job. I am about to do this exact job come 8 am. Ive watched your videos on the 04-08 F-150 4.6 5.3 liters over numerous issues and you are pretty much solely responsible for keeping my Brownie on the road. thank you kind sir and keep up the hard work.
I think that specialty tool kit should come with a specialty adapter for a Shop-Vac that can slide your air hose down into it while the shop vacs on to catch all of that debris
@@andyk192 I disagree. It's a similar concept to sucking up tooth filling shavings with suction. The vacuum doesn't have to be so strong as to pull the piston back up. You need to check with an endoscope anyway, so you could use that air pressure tool to push it back down if needed.
This repair kit is fantastic! You can make a machine shop quality repair without removing the head. A Godsend for us Ford Triton owners. Probably paid for itself doing the first job.
I cant thank you enough for your videos and the time you take to give great information and tutorials on fixing common problems-I fixed my 4.6L 2V today by watching this video and knowing the best tools/kits to use to complete the job! Thank you again!
I've never had to do one of these, or the 5.4 3 valve engine, but my former coworkers had done several of both types of engines. Some were blessed with the V10 on Number 5 which is the rear on the passenger side! THAT was not a lot of joy! I believe these engineers should have been the ones to change these with the engine in the vehicle! Thankyou Brian for doing this video. If I owned a Ford with these engines, I would buy that kit. The first two steps using that rubber air blowout is the BEST WAY to start this repair!
excellent instructional video, thanks, no extra nonsense talking like so many others seem to post here on youtube. this guy actually knows what he is doing and explains proper use of the proper tools needed to do the job properly. I'm an old fan of helicoil, but for this application, Calvan has put together an excellent kit at a very fair price to correct the problem that ford engineers built into these engines. keep up the great work makuloco.
I didn’t need this video tutorial, but it was very well put together, simplified, and entertaining. I have an 01 Ford Lightning that the previous owner had to remove the heads in order to install inserts for this very problem. I’m glad to see that they have come a long way with kits that can fix these issues.
Thank you! I have worked on cars for my whole life, a good portion of it professionally and I have to say thank you, very well thought out and I really appreciate you sharing your best practices with us!
I just ordered a calvan 38900 kit and it came in the mail yesterday. Can't wait to get started on this motor now that you have me a little more confidence.
Man, that is a cool kit. Shop I used to work for pulled a head to go to the machine shop for a blowout years back. I had to put it back on when it came in, on a 6.8 E350. This kit would have been worth its weight in gold. Thanks for showing us this.
Best explanation so far.. thank you!! So much for real thank you!! I just blew a spark plug.. I don’t want to do this but I have to get to work.. I really appreciate people like you who take your time to explain a process like this to help ppl like me out!! Thank you again
I found this channel recently despite owning a 2v for ever and a day now in the form of an 02 Lightning and an 04 Lightning. The absolute best insert kit you can buy is from lock n stitch. I assume these guys may use their parts. You can tell as the lock n stitch inserts...the external threads are angled back so they don't back out and instead dig in deeper. Its the go to kit for us in the Lightning community. My 02 is now being fed 19 pounds of boost and has not failed me yet. Also from like 97 to 2002 Ford used a 4 thread head whereas in 2003 and on they used an 8 thread head. So if you ever change heads....find 2003 and up heads and never worry again. Also rock set on the threads works very well to install the inserts. The stuff requires a torch to remove which is way higher than the engine will ever see
Just wanted to say thank you for the video. I just finished the plug install on my 2005 F150 4.6. Everything went pretty smooth. Took me just under 2 hours but I was being extra careful.
Excellent presentation...! As a retired Manufacturing Engineer, Tool Room Machinist, CNC Programmer and engine builder, I was especially impressed that you correctly referred to the reamer, as such...and not as a "drill bit" too often described in most insert installation videos. Very detailed, and professional. As a perfectionist...I would be very comfortable with you working on any of my vehicles. Very well done..!
That is exactly what I did. I have a small shop vac and I found a kit with a reducer, clear hose, all kinds of nozzles and ends. Watched debris come up the tube!
I use a compressor with about a 12 inch wand so I can get down in there good and blast it out. I also blow the whole top of the motor real good before I start so no additional debris falls into the cylinder
Love your videos. My son and I do all our own work as a hobby. His Shelby just blown a spark plug out of cylinder 3. After watching your video we feel very confident in fixing with no issues. Thank you.
Great Video and explanation of the process. I have to say I am most impressed with the use of clean language. I have young boys that I share your video repairs with and like your clean style. Keep up the good work.
been using this tool for a few years,very easy and comes with the perfect instructions,i put the stopper in and use a starter button on the starter solenoid and bump it till it blows it out,then make sure the cylinder is down with the ol handy maxidas camera.have about 200 units repaired with the same tool
Just finished doing this one my 2006 Ford E-450! Thanks for the amazing guide. I’d like to add one tip that’s actually in the instructions from CalVan. When you’re cutting the new threads, they say to go up and down a couple times to really make sure the threads are clean cut. I did that, and my insert threaded in very easily, no catching on anything.
Great video, I am changing the plugs for the first time since I've owned it on my 06 Interceptor, hope I don't have to use the tool. I did notice something in the video you might want to mention. At 19:48 when you bottom out the e-clip installed on the tap on the guide you can see everything cinch down as the tap is threading into its own cut threads. You might want to mention to stop applying rotational torque at that time to avoid stripping your new threads, unlike the reamer where you can let it spin once its reached the depth stop.
I think it is implied to stop when it contacts the e clips as it was mentioned several times I the video. You couldn't strip those new threads if you wanted to, the e clip would bend and fly off well beforehand.
you would need the calvan tools 39300 since the 2006 is a 3 valve.The one being used is for the 2v. On the 3v you're more likely to break a spark plug than to have one blow out.
I just finished doing all 10 of mine. I had two plugs pop out. I watched your video to learn how to do it. Thank you so much for this video and all of your video's.
That is an excellent point. Shop Vac has the tubes that will actually fit down inside of the combustion chamber so you can draw out as much aluminum and junk as you can before using compressed air. I haven't been presented with the sparkplug problem yet so I can't say if both the super small Shop Vac tubes and a long reach blow gun will fit in the sparkplug hole at the same time. I would definitely get a Borescope to get as much of the aluminum out.
I am 73 years old and have been working on cars since I was 13. Your choice of the Cal-Van kit is spot on. However, I have to disagree about spark plugs. I bought my 1999 V-10 with 141,000 miles on it. I immediately put E3 spark plugs in it. It now has 214,000 miles on it and purrs like a kitten. When my #4 spark plug blew out, the E3 was in perfect shape and I just reinstalled it. When I moved, I made 15 round trips of 3,000 miles each pulling an 8.5 X 24 enclosed trailer from Phoenix to Central Illinois and had -0- problems on the road. I know that everyone has their own opinion about things. This is just mine.
Well explained video. Watched other guys do the same task and it looked like they were doing brain surgery. Slow and steady gets the job done. Will definitely get that borescope. very handy to have in the shop. Thanks enjoy all your videos 👍👍
Bravo, the best job I've seen done. I used to have to remove broken bolts and re-tap on jet engines when they had an issue in the test cell, tapping slowly with lots of oil going forward and back does the trick.
Great job , as usual ! Ron Williams uses the same Cal Van kit on his channel . He says he has done about 1000 inserts . However , he doesn't use the cutting oil so the metal is dry for the JB Weld . It does shorten the life of the reamer and tap .
Once I had to unbolt a crankshaft pulley without an impact tool. Online I found a suggestion to stuff a cylinder with a long piece of rope to lock up up the piston when unbolting the pulley - worked great! I reckon it may be possible to stuff your piston full of rope to help capture all those shavings. At the very end of tapping find the rope end and pull it all out...along with all them shavings, clung to the light oil.
Excellent as all ways....you are the master... In my day we used heli coil that's all we had... Thanks for another well explained video... Cheers 🍺🍺🍺🇺🇸🇺🇸
Currently doing my whole engine proactively! great video. Loving the guarantee that my new primo plugs and coils won't go bust after this kit is completed! DO IT! It's awesome. Thanks FTM
This video saved me a ton of money. The shoes in my area literally would not give me a quote to fix this. They said they’d just need to do it and then bill me later. Yeah right. But my one issue with the cal van set is the air fitting on the pressure gauge! It didn’t fit anything I had and wouldn’t accept a replacement air fitting. It’s totally inexcusable. Other people said to file this and modify that. Why not use a standards fitting? I ended up needing to rotate the engine and then test whether the valves were closed by holding everything right together myself. Completely and unnecessarily frustrating! Fix the air fitting and the cal van kit is perfect
Had that happen to me to me and a friend worked for Ford and repaired it for me after I purchased this repair kit. Saved me the service dept fee and got it done in an hour😊
Love your vids. They have helped me through several unfamiliar repairs. Maybe I can help you for a change. When removing cutting chips from the cylinder, it doesn't make sense to start with compressed air first. Most of the chips can be suctioned out by attaching a shop vac hose to a trans fluid funnel. The suction is magnified and the end of the trans funnel gets down to the the plug area. If yours is too thick to get past the threads and into the cylinder, simply extend it with vinyl tube. I came up with this trick when I needed to pull plugs on a 4.6 and was trying to avoid the junk in the plug well from falling into the cylinder when I pulled the plug. Works like a champ. Give it a try sometime.
The reason they blow is usually because of a bad injector or bad spark that causes dead cylinder to fill with gas. The full cylinder either gets spark or blows out exhaust valve hitting a heat source good enough to cause combustion. Then boom spark plug blows. So its more important to check the neglected parts like spark plugs,coils,injectors That cause the spark plugs to blow. I would only replace the ones that blow personally. Spend the money you would pay to tap them all , to replace the parts that cause the problem. All these people knocking ford for bad design, id much rather tap new threads then have internal engine failure any day. Lol consider it a pressure blow off valve to prevent internal engine grenade.
I am not a Ford guy, but i thought about buying one to pull a camper. But this makes me nervous about Ford engines. Getting the aluminum chips out makes me the most anxious if i were to try this. I think the saving grace for the diy mechanic on this, is that the plugs are basically vertical and not at a hidden angle like heads of the old days. Anyhow, job well done, and you prove with correct parts and technique, this can be done.
This just happened to my son's 99 crown vic.. He thought the EXACT THING you said in the beginning. He was ready to junk the car and go to carvana for a loan. I've been in retail hardware for 30 years (don't now much about cars) so I said, "see if there's a helicoil for sparkplugs".. There is but I see this is not exactly a helicoil but this actually looks better. I showed him the video I hope he decides to do this. Thanks so much for this video, very informative!
Those time sert people are top notch!! I ordered a kit for my 49 mercury flathead to repair the block for the cylinder head bolt. Pricey, yeah, worth it-absolutely! Kit came with everything needed, and clear concise instructions. Repair came out perfectly!
Just had this done to my E150 van, previous owner misthreaded one of the plugs, I went to start the van on a really cold day, the plug blew out so hard, it took the coil with it. I'm no mechanic but I'm sure I could have done this myself, instead I paid a garage $700 cash, that included all 8 new plugs, 8 new coils, plus the repair to the blown out plug threads, van is now running like new. It was worth every penny I paid to get my van fixed, I run my own construction business, that's the reason I just paid a shop to fix my van, I used to enjoy turning wrenches when I was younger, I don't have the patience for it these days, I'm usually too busy with work. At 48 years old, this is the first time I've ever paid another man to work on my vehicle😑 once I got over myself and let me ego get the hell outta the way and allow the shop to do this job for me, I was super happy with the work they did. Very nice video, I watch old Scotty Kilmer videos, instead of the air wand, Scotty fired the vehicle up after boring the new threads, he said that would blow out any metal shavings, Scotty is the man for sure, but I like your method much better..👍👍
This Calvin kit is awesome, I had to use these kits on both the 4.6 and 5.4 Tritan Motors. I bought the kit for my 1st expedition and had to make another set of inserts for many 2nd expedition. I then bought an explorer with 4.6 and had this make another set of inserts. If you change 1 you might as well change them all, when they blow out you lose your coil too. So instead of buying a new coil for every cylinder because of them getting broke from the plugs being blown out just out the kits in all the cylinders now and save a few bucks. I haven't had any of these ever blow out.
I have to say this is the best overall video on this repair I've seen yet. Lots of them out there but this one is short, to the point and easy to understand the process. You can save a lot of time and money with this DYI video. THUMBS UP!
Whats really sad is lots of folks paid over $1500 for a spark plug replacement when one of the back ones blew out. No spark plug should ever cost $1500 replace, regardless of where it is. Whats really funny is how ford did the exact opposite with the 3vavles, made it so the suckers wouldn't even extract. I'm glad this issue is a thing of the past on their new motors.
Very nicely done video! I'm completely ignorant about engines and their repair, but I am surprised to hear that blowing air into the cylinder will remove all of the micro particals of metal chips.
Nice video and great work. My 1999 F-150 5.4L Triton V8 blew a plug out of the hole sometime between the 1-3 year old mark. I remember being all nervous about the motor being shot because of the metal shavings presumably going down the hole. I went to a Ford forum and everyone was saying as it was under warranty I should be demanding a crate new motor from Ford. I didn't know any better so that's what I did. Dealer put the kabash on that talk right away and repaired my motor after a thorough inspection. I think they did put a new head on it though. Got the truck back and it had an oil leak. Faulty head gasket or installation. Dealer took it back and put on another one. Once again, truck was dripping oil in the garage. 3rd time was a charm. However, the mechanic did put a nice long deep scratch above the driver front side wheel well. I couldn't get them to take ownership of that - they were set in their ways that the scratch was pre-existing. I knew that was pure BS I would have known as it was still a relatively new truck at the time. I let it go. What seems like would be a ton of work tearing down the head each time, @FordTechMakuloco makes it looks easy with his experience and care.
Have this kit. Works well. V-10 has lost two plugs. Simple and quick repair. My kit tells me to use a JB weld type product on the inserts. Used a Cronatron welding product two part epoxy. First one popped 100,000 or so ago. Last one much more recent. So far so good.
I would have tapped that by hand making sure to break the chip after about half a turn. I'd lose my mind when I'm at work and my threads looked like that.
I was told back in the day when tapping a thread to go forward half a turn and back quarter of a turn till the tap is through... Then same with the final cut tap...
I have come to your channel as a resource on at least 4 occasions now, (when I really needed to learn something) and you've not failed to deliver yet. Thanks. I just had a spark plug blow out on the 2nd 4.6L I've owned. Someone else fixed the previous one years ago and I've never been able to get that plug out again! I'll try your fix myself this time. Then on to a 3.0 Taurus DOHC vacume leak I can't seem to locate! Thanks again for your channel.
nice! fortunately I never had this issue with the 4.6 in my crown vic or in my F-150. and hopefully will never have. I think you can avoid it by using more torque on the plugs, at least you made a video about it once.
Thank you for such a great to the point instructional video. I have a 2014 E250 with a 4.6 and number 2 blew out. I purchased the kit and worked as advertised. I did have to order the thread lock online as the auto stores and Grainger did not carry slow set lock. I am going with the Loctite 266 and hope that holds like the Time-Sert 6020
I did a repair on my 2000 5.4 about 18 years ago. I used the timesert repair kit and liked how the last threads were cold formed flaring the bottom of the insert out to lock it in place. That combined with locktite made it permanent. I’ve never had a timesert back out. It’s not a hard process but the back cylinders next to the firewall and adjacent to the brake master cylinder on the left and air conditioning on the right makes it a bear to reach. If I rebuilt it I would put inserts in every plug hole when the heads were done.
Fascinating. I'm amazed that Ford got away with not having a recall or warranty extension, because this repair method is highly reliant on the mechanic's diligence such as yours. How many mechanics don't repeatedly go back in after every shaving with an endoscope? All those metal shavings flying all around reminds me of watching a hip replacement surgery. It's not pretty. :)
Very quality video, better than some of the manufacturer training LOL my only critique is to hold onto the brake clean straw, i shot one of those into a cylinder once and it took me hours to get it back out lol
Spark plug blew out on my ford 2002 Triton engine. The coil and spark plug was laying on top of the engine. If it wasn't I would have had no idea what was wrong. Spark plug threads were still intact so I just screwed it back into the hole and it tightened. Probably just worked itself loose. Had the right tools to do it. If not for these TH-cam videos I would have junked the car. Feels good to fix your own car man
You know all many do some stupid stuff but this takes the cake. I saw like 3 threads for the spark plug why the heck would ford do this.Should there be a class action suit to make ford fix all those. And the second thing is how do you prevent this from happening check all your spark plug to make sure they’re at 25 pounds I like your videos by the way
I have been blessed.I have a 2006 Ford F150 4.6 with 227,500 miles.I have had no major problems.I did have to replace the alternator at 66,000 miles and the starter and fuel pump at over 200,000 and also the coils and plugs and it's still running good.
These are the Parts and Tools I recommend:
Best 2v Spark Plug Insert Kit-
amzn.to/2Js80Zy
High Temp High Strength Thread Sealant-
amzn.to/2LWKthK
Long Reach Air Wand-
amzn.to/2sBseqb
Basic Endoscope-
amzn.to/2svNcXk
Tap Magic-
amzn.to/2Jj5em8
Milwaukee 3/8" Electric Ratchet-
homedepot.sjv.io/c/1245131/459920/8154?prodsku=202957709&u=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.homedepot.com%2Fp%2FMilwaukee-M12-12-Volt-Lithium-Ion-Cordless-3-8-in-Ratchet-Kit-W-1-1-5Ah-Battery-Charger-Tool-Bag-2457-21%2F202957709
I have a Ford escape 2014 = 1.6 engine and the Dealer says I need a new engine because the block broke and it's leaking oil into the Cylindre 2 and 3. Do you know if this is a common problem on other Ford escapes ?
I have a few questions. From what I understand the 3v plugs break and the 2v plugs blown out. Does the 2v plug break also and is there a new plug design for the 2v that prevents the plug from blowing out, like an extended threaded plug? Same for the 3v is there a new plug design to stop the plugs from breaking, like a 1 piece plug.?
@@gabrielshirk
I have done this insert/fix on my 99 Triton 6.8 2 valves engine, I have learned that these 2v engine plugs will get blown out, not broken and not the plug problem, it's the aluminum head design that has only about 4 threads to hold the spark plug, plus Ford recommendation of [only] 13 lb/ft of torque for the plugs that allow the plugs to get loose over time and blown out, stripping out the aluminum engine thread with them. The easy prevention is to re-torque all plugs to 22-25 lb/ft, that much torque won't strip out the engine thread.
FordTechMakuloco
Will this work on a 2006 F150 4.6
I have just retired from 45 years of twisting a wrench. I have been to many seminars, factory schools, etc. I have repaired many spark plug threads using this kit. I have never seen a better tutorial on this subject than yours. Thanks for restoring my faith in you tube tutorials, at least in yours.
Is this the best kit? I have also heard of “time sert”? I have a plug that just blew and want the best kit, thank you for your years of service👍💪✊️🇺🇸
@@leonsam12 yes, it is the best by far
D we u lit
What happens if some shavings stay in there?
Will the repair kit work on 4valve ford motor also? Thanks
I don't know squat about working on engines, but I used this exact kit and followed this guy's instructions on this video and it worked like a charm! Two years ago and it is still running great on the 4.6 L engine. I was just jacked out of my mind with excitement for doing this myself. FordTechMakuloco is THE BEST!!! Thank you so much!
Nice bro I took my 6.8 L to a shop and number 8 blew out on me 😮they said I need a new motor $12,000 😅 then I had another mechanic tell me no just to get this kit and he’d charge 2,200$ and or buy new head I guess for same price ?
Would the kit work on a 2018 6.8.
Yep. It’s worth only driving fords because of this guy’s repair videos
Bro, this was so effing thorough it should be mandatory subject matter for ASE- this was excellent
Memo: Ford General Office to Engineering, "Have to save 5 cents per engine, reduce thickness and depth of all threaded holes".
Scratch that....save 10 cents and eliminate the holes. Engineer: then the truck wont run?... General Office: Slap a battery in it and charge twice as much for the truck...Engineer: Batteries cost too much. General Office: let me check with Corporate eggheads.....Okay, Eggheads said eliminate 1/2 the spark plug holes and add turbo's until we figure out the cost issue on the batteries....charge three times what the truck is worth...add a couple more cheap smart phone ports to make the stupid public think they are getting a deal for the huge price increase. Man, my bonus is going to be HUGE this year!! Hahahaha
Don’t think this was a cost saving measure. I think it was either poor setup or an engineer not knowing they were using a tapered tap. It was explained to me that when they tapped the holes, they used a tapered tap. If you tell the computer to make a number of turns based on the entire length of the tap, you won’t make threads until you get to full diameter of the tap. The first 1/4 inch taper is a starting guide. If they had just made 3 more turns, the entire hole would have been threaded.
@@yqwgjsg That makes total sense. But who in their right mind thought it would be a good process for spark plugs ? Some genius thought he could create a hybrid pipe thread perhaps ?
"... and please return all unused pencils."
@@yqwgjsg It was 4 threads instead of the traditional 8
Being a fellow Ford guy I can say for all of us we are greatly appreciative of the information you provided us with the hands on side I watch your videos some times as a refreshing when I haven't done something in a while
Been doing this repair for years. This kit has never failed me yet!
Were do I get it and what is it called
@@davidiniguez95 Calvan Ford 2 valve thread repair. Ford Rotunda has one also. Amazon.
Where are you located
1excellent video . Here’s a few tips that aren’t covered.
1) never use power to tap anything.
2) you should always turn the tap backwards 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn to break the new cut chips when you’re tapping the new threads that are accumulated in the flutes of the tap. Especially on aluminum. It takes one sliver to jam up on the new cut threads and destroy the threads you just cut.
3) use a non oil cutting agent . Loctite doesn’t like oil .
Just some tips from a machinist .
Cannot one just use brake clean to get rid of the cutting oil before putting the insert in?
I too was surprised he didn't back the tap out every revolution of the tap as I do. I usually 360-degree in and then 180-degree back out.
He followed the supplied instructions. I don't like using power on taps either but it works in this application
Well said
its amazing how much money, time and headache you have saved me over the years with your videos
I performed this repair with the kit recommended here. The day of the repair I started my 1,278 mile trip from California back home. My 2000 F350 V10 hummed the whole way. More power, less engine noise. Great video, everything worked as you demonstrated. Thanks.
@Robert Burley well after they blow out they are loud as hell and engine loses alot of compression =loss of power.
@Robert Burley and also what if there was a miss on that cylinder. Dont assume what you do not know
Thomas Smith yeah another case of a jackass with a tiny bit of knowledge who thinks he’s god. But yeah before they blow out the cylinder will slowly lose compression so yes Robert you jackass you will lose power haha
Just had a spark plug blow out on my van after driving 500 miles away from home , going to tackle this project soon. Thank you for excellent tutorial !
Man loco guy that video was spot on. Felt like a pro at it and never done it. Spend the money on the tool and you weren’t lying. It literally took me all of about 20 minutes ty
15 minutes would equal half a day for me.
An hour per insert for me, electric ratchet, but my air is just a Harbor Freight pancake so I had to wait 5 minutes between blasts of air that lasted about 5 seconds.
hahah id prob cross thread after i tapped it
There's no shame in going slow and being careful if you are new to a process, better than going off cocksure that you're flawless and turning a small repair into a large disaster brother!
Half a day or so to get your car to your HOME/GARAGE TOOL SHOP! Half a day to get to the Auto parts store for a new plug and specialty tools and meterials (inserts)
Half a day to get your engine clean and apart! [15 minutes to drill/ tap!] Half a day to get together again!
The first one I blew (driver side front) I did it this way! 6 months ago! I blew the third one back on the left yesterday! I can't get in to drill it, the firewall is in the way!
So I bought a new spark plug $6
And check fit it! It seems to have bit good! So I took it out and put some J&B WELD on it and CRANKED IT BACK IN! I'M 58 YEARS OLD LIFE LONG MR. FIX IT MECHANICAL/ELECTRICAL/PLUMBER/WELDER/ BLUE PRINT READING/ DRAWING DRAFTER
I'M GIVING THE GOOP A DAY TO CURE! BUT THE WHOLE PROBLEM PROBABLY START TO FINISH 3 DAYS [15 MINUTES TO SCREW IN THE J&B thread coated new spark plug!]
Another hour or so to get the motor back together!
Tomorrow I'll attach the battery cable and see what happens!🤨
Same... and x10 since I have a V10.
A guy could make a LOT of money knowing only this repair. Awesome video
Awesome video. I had a plug to blow out but that kit is $250 which in this economy is a lot for a single income with a family of 5. But love this video. It’s a great help
But, it’s worth it because it works for more that 1 blown plug. I purchased a kit as a single mom but was so glad I did because it saved me over $1500. My truck blew the #8 plug which was a biotch to get to🤣
Thank you so much for posting this. Had a plug blow #7 on my wifes 2000 F150 with the 5.4 Triton. Just got my calvan kit today & not gonna lie I was a little nervous about tackling this project. You're video has made me feel more confident about the process.
FordTechMakuloco you have saved me so many times i can not express my gratitude for the work you've put in here. Planet ford Spring Tx quoted me 7,200 plus for one side head job. I am about to do this exact job come 8 am. Ive watched your videos on the 04-08 F-150 4.6 5.3 liters over numerous issues and you are pretty much solely responsible for keeping my Brownie on the road. thank you kind sir and keep up the hard work.
I think that specialty tool kit should come with a specialty adapter for a Shop-Vac that can slide your air hose down into it while the shop vacs on to catch all of that debris
@@andyk192 I disagree. It's a similar concept to sucking up tooth filling shavings with suction. The vacuum doesn't have to be so strong as to pull the piston back up. You need to check with an endoscope anyway, so you could use that air pressure tool to push it back down if needed.
This repair kit is fantastic! You can make a machine shop quality repair without removing the head. A Godsend for us Ford Triton owners. Probably paid for itself doing the first job.
I cant thank you enough for your videos and the time you take to give great information and tutorials on fixing common problems-I fixed my 4.6L 2V today by watching this video and knowing the best tools/kits to use to complete the job! Thank you again!
If you start it they all blow right out
Exactly
You have an excellent pronunciation and accent.
I can understand all the words you speak.
Greetings from México.
He has an accent? LOL
@@frankfarklesberry actually he does . Northern accent. I live in the south and i can tell the difference
I've never had to do one of these, or the 5.4 3 valve engine, but my former coworkers had done several of both types of engines. Some were blessed with the V10 on Number 5 which is the rear on the passenger side! THAT was not a lot of joy! I believe these engineers should have been the ones to change these with the engine in the vehicle! Thankyou Brian for doing this video. If I owned a Ford with these engines, I would buy that kit. The first two steps using that rubber air blowout is the BEST WAY to start this repair!
So this kit will work on the 5.4 3 valve????
That kit is worth every penny. Used it three times now and it does truly only take 15 minutes.
excellent instructional video, thanks, no extra nonsense talking like so many others seem to post here on youtube. this guy actually knows what he is doing and explains proper use of the proper tools needed to do the job properly. I'm an old fan of helicoil, but for this application, Calvan has put together an excellent kit at a very fair price to correct the problem that ford engineers built into these engines. keep up the great work makuloco.
I didn’t need this video tutorial, but it was very well put together, simplified, and entertaining. I have an 01 Ford Lightning that the previous owner had to remove the heads in order to install inserts for this very problem. I’m glad to see that they have come a long way with kits that can fix these issues.
Thank you! I have worked on cars for my whole life, a good portion of it professionally and I have to say thank you, very well thought out and I really appreciate you sharing your best practices with us!
I just ordered a calvan 38900 kit and it came in the mail yesterday. Can't wait to get started on this motor now that you have me a little more confidence.
Man, that is a cool kit. Shop I used to work for pulled a head to go to the machine shop for a blowout years back. I had to put it back on when it came in, on a 6.8 E350. This kit would have been worth its weight in gold. Thanks for showing us this.
Excellent video...Agree with threading by hand to FEEL threads as being cut.
Best explanation so far.. thank you!! So much for real thank you!! I just blew a spark plug.. I don’t want to do this but I have to get to work.. I really appreciate people like you who take your time to explain a process like this to help ppl like me out!! Thank you again
I found this channel recently despite owning a 2v for ever and a day now in the form of an 02 Lightning and an 04 Lightning. The absolute best insert kit you can buy is from lock n stitch. I assume these guys may use their parts. You can tell as the lock n stitch inserts...the external threads are angled back so they don't back out and instead dig in deeper. Its the go to kit for us in the Lightning community. My 02 is now being fed 19 pounds of boost and has not failed me yet. Also from like 97 to 2002 Ford used a 4 thread head whereas in 2003 and on they used an 8 thread head. So if you ever change heads....find 2003 and up heads and never worry again. Also rock set on the threads works very well to install the inserts. The stuff requires a torch to remove which is way higher than the engine will ever see
I downloaded this on my phone! Excellent presentation! And saved it on my computer! Got the kit, too!
Just wanted to say thank you for the video. I just finished the plug install on my 2005 F150 4.6. Everything went pretty smooth. Took me just under 2 hours but I was being extra careful.
Well done Brian, just had my plugs changed on my 5.4 2 vlv. None blew out and new ones tightened good and tight. Fingers crossed.
Excellent presentation...! As a retired Manufacturing Engineer, Tool Room Machinist, CNC Programmer and engine builder, I was especially impressed that you correctly referred to the reamer, as such...and not as a "drill bit" too often described in most insert installation videos. Very detailed, and professional. As a perfectionist...I would be very comfortable with you working on any of my vehicles. Very well done..!
should you back out the tap periodically to clear chips? what's your opinion
@@BogusQuacky Yes...reverse the tap about every 1/3rd to 1/2 turn.
Ford's better idea. I wonder if a shop vac necked down to small diameter hose wouldn't work better for getting the swarf.
That is exactly what I did. I have a small shop vac and I found a kit with a reducer, clear hose, all kinds of nozzles and ends. Watched debris come up the tube!
I use a compressor with about a 12 inch wand so I can get down in there good and blast it out. I also blow real good before I start.
I use a compressor with about a 12 inch wand so I can get down in there good and blast it out. I also blow the whole top of the motor real good before I start so no additional debris falls into the cylinder
Love your videos. My son and I do all our own work as a hobby. His Shelby just blown a spark plug out of cylinder 3. After watching your video we feel very confident in fixing with no issues. Thank you.
Great Video and explanation of the process. I have to say I am most impressed with the use of clean language. I have young boys that I share your video repairs with and like your clean style. Keep up the good work.
i just did all 8 of my with the Calvan Kit. I start at the back on each side. this was actually fun!!! thanks!!! save me so much money!!!
I'm impressed with that kit. Got the job done really fast 👍
been using this tool for a few years,very easy and comes with the perfect instructions,i put the stopper in and use a starter button on the starter solenoid and bump it till it blows it out,then make sure the cylinder is down with the ol handy maxidas camera.have about 200 units repaired with the same tool
Great video and great save. I wonder if after using the blower a couple times you might attach a vacuum to your tube and try to get the chips out.
Just finished doing this one my 2006 Ford E-450! Thanks for the amazing guide. I’d like to add one tip that’s actually in the instructions from CalVan. When you’re cutting the new threads, they say to go up and down a couple times to really make sure the threads are clean cut. I did that, and my insert threaded in very easily, no catching on anything.
Great video, I am changing the plugs for the first time since I've owned it on my 06 Interceptor, hope I don't have to use the tool. I did notice something in the video you might want to mention. At 19:48 when you bottom out the e-clip installed on the tap on the guide you can see everything cinch down as the tap is threading into its own cut threads. You might want to mention to stop applying rotational torque at that time to avoid stripping your new threads, unlike the reamer where you can let it spin once its reached the depth stop.
I think it is implied to stop when it contacts the e clips as it was mentioned several times I the video. You couldn't strip those new threads if you wanted to, the e clip would bend and fly off well beforehand.
I got that, but I am a Tech also and know as well as you do if you are not very specific things go haywire quickly.
you would need the calvan tools 39300 since the 2006 is a 3 valve.The one being used is for the 2v. On the 3v you're more likely to break a spark plug than to have one blow out.
@@dustinwarren395 3v here.... About to do this repair this weekend.
Thanks for taking the time to drop that tip
I just finished doing all 10 of mine. I had two plugs pop out. I watched your video to learn how to do it. Thank you so much for this video and all of your video's.
Use a wet and dry vac when blowing out the cylinders to catch the flying chips.👍makes clean up much easier
That is an excellent point. Shop Vac has the tubes that will actually fit down inside of the combustion chamber so you can draw out as much aluminum and junk as you can before using compressed air. I haven't been presented with the sparkplug problem yet so I can't say if both the super small Shop Vac tubes and a long reach blow gun will fit in the sparkplug hole at the same time. I would definitely get a Borescope to get as much of the aluminum out.
I am 73 years old and have been working on cars since I was 13. Your choice of the Cal-Van kit is spot on. However, I have to disagree about spark plugs. I bought my 1999 V-10 with 141,000 miles on it. I immediately put E3 spark plugs in it. It now has 214,000 miles on it and purrs like a kitten. When my #4 spark plug blew out, the E3 was in perfect shape and I just reinstalled it. When I moved, I made 15 round trips of 3,000 miles each pulling an 8.5 X 24 enclosed trailer from Phoenix to Central Illinois and had -0- problems on the road. I know that everyone has their own opinion about things. This is just mine.
Well explained video. Watched other guys do the same task and it looked like they were doing brain surgery. Slow and steady gets the job done. Will definitely get that borescope. very handy to have in the shop. Thanks enjoy all your videos 👍👍
Bravo, the best job I've seen done. I used to have to remove broken bolts and re-tap on jet engines when they had an issue in the test cell, tapping slowly with lots of oil going forward and back does the trick.
That fact that this problem even exists is sad. The engineer who designed this should be waterboarded
It's not waterboarding if you use diesel
@Furn333 not as bad as the ford trans that blew apart internally from lack of lube/ worn bores in the early 2000's.
@bonzology I am. Sure you having nothing but the best of luck with those GM products becuse there quality control is great
And with the plug issue with the 3 valve also
Dan R waterboarding would be just a start
Great job , as usual ! Ron Williams uses the same Cal Van kit on his channel . He says he has done about 1000 inserts . However , he doesn't use the cutting oil so the metal is dry for the JB Weld . It does shorten the life of the reamer and tap .
I always watch makuloco if there's one for a repair. Know how to do it the right way however you do it.
Once I had to unbolt a crankshaft pulley without an impact tool. Online I found a suggestion to stuff a cylinder with a long piece of rope to lock up up the piston when unbolting the pulley - worked great! I reckon it may be possible to stuff your piston full of rope to help capture all those shavings. At the very end of tapping find the rope end and pull it all out...along with all them shavings, clung to the light oil.
Excellent as all ways....you are the master... In my day we used heli coil that's all we had... Thanks for another well explained video... Cheers 🍺🍺🍺🇺🇸🇺🇸
Currently doing my whole engine proactively! great video. Loving the guarantee that my new primo plugs and coils won't go bust after this kit is completed! DO IT! It's awesome. Thanks FTM
Thank you for this, I feel more confident now.
This video saved me a ton of money. The shoes in my area literally would not give me a quote to fix this. They said they’d just need to do it and then bill me later. Yeah right.
But my one issue with the cal van set is the air fitting on the pressure gauge! It didn’t fit anything I had and wouldn’t accept a replacement air fitting. It’s totally inexcusable. Other people said to file this and modify that. Why not use a standards fitting?
I ended up needing to rotate the engine and then test whether the valves were closed by holding everything right together myself. Completely and unnecessarily frustrating! Fix the air fitting and the cal van kit is perfect
I'm starting to feel like an engine dentist with all these long tools with air sounds
Had that happen to me to me and a friend worked for Ford and repaired it for me after I purchased this repair kit. Saved me the service dept fee and got it done in an hour😊
You sir deserve a beer on the house lol
More like case of beer and anything else he wants drink
Love your vids. They have helped me through several unfamiliar repairs. Maybe I can help you for a change. When removing cutting chips from the cylinder, it doesn't make sense to start with compressed air first. Most of the chips can be suctioned out by attaching a shop vac hose to a trans fluid funnel. The suction is magnified and the end of the trans funnel gets down to the the plug area. If yours is too thick to get past the threads and into the cylinder, simply extend it with vinyl tube. I came up with this trick when I needed to pull plugs on a 4.6 and was trying to avoid the junk in the plug well from falling into the cylinder when I pulled the plug. Works like a champ. Give it a try sometime.
It is a lot of chips for sure but I would imagine this would be a good start before blowing the rest out.
If this happens is it wise to do the rest of cylinders to avoid future problems
leroy conley that could be asking for trouble
Your Choice, both schools of thought have their merits
The reason they blow is usually because of a bad injector or bad spark that causes dead cylinder to fill with gas. The full cylinder either gets spark or blows out exhaust valve hitting a heat source good enough to cause combustion. Then boom spark plug blows. So its more important to check the neglected parts like spark plugs,coils,injectors That cause the spark plugs to blow. I would only replace the ones that blow personally. Spend the money you would pay to tap them all , to replace the parts that cause the problem. All these people knocking ford for bad design, id much rather tap new threads then have internal engine failure any day. Lol consider it a pressure blow off valve to prevent internal engine grenade.
@@MsArmyofangels yabba dabba yes sir. Good call! Knowing is half the battle !
I am not a Ford guy, but i thought about buying one to pull a camper. But this makes me nervous about Ford engines. Getting the aluminum chips out makes me the most anxious if i were to try this. I think the saving grace for the diy mechanic on this, is that the plugs are basically vertical and not at a hidden angle like heads of the old days. Anyhow, job well done, and you prove with correct parts and technique, this can be done.
Wow! What an awesome kit! Great job on that repair.
This just happened to my son's 99 crown vic.. He thought the EXACT THING you said in the beginning. He was ready to junk the car and go to carvana for a loan. I've been in retail hardware for 30 years (don't now much about cars) so I said, "see if there's a helicoil for sparkplugs".. There is but I see this is not exactly a helicoil but this actually looks better. I showed him the video I hope he decides to do this.
Thanks so much for this video, very informative!
Hey some stuff for us 2v guys
Lol I suppose it’s a good thing us 2v guys don’t have a lot of Ford tech repair videos. Generally no need to repair!
Those time sert people are top notch!! I ordered a kit for my 49 mercury flathead to repair the block for the cylinder head bolt. Pricey, yeah, worth it-absolutely! Kit came with everything needed, and clear concise instructions. Repair came out perfectly!
Dry chips should blow out at the end or out the exhaust. They’re aluminum and much softer than the rings and cylinders
Just had this done to my E150 van, previous owner misthreaded one of the plugs, I went to start the van on a really cold day, the plug blew out so hard, it took the coil with it. I'm no mechanic but I'm sure I could have done this myself, instead I paid a garage $700 cash, that included all 8 new plugs, 8 new coils, plus the repair to the blown out plug threads, van is now running like new. It was worth every penny I paid to get my van fixed, I run my own construction business, that's the reason I just paid a shop to fix my van, I used to enjoy turning wrenches when I was younger, I don't have the patience for it these days, I'm usually too busy with work. At 48 years old, this is the first time I've ever paid another man to work on my vehicle😑 once I got over myself and let me ego get the hell outta the way and allow the shop to do this job for me, I was super happy with the work they did. Very nice video, I watch old Scotty Kilmer videos, instead of the air wand, Scotty fired the vehicle up after boring the new threads, he said that would blow out any metal shavings, Scotty is the man for sure, but I like your method much better..👍👍
This guy does good work.
This Calvin kit is awesome, I had to use these kits on both the 4.6 and 5.4 Tritan Motors. I bought the kit for my 1st expedition and had to make another set of inserts for many 2nd expedition. I then bought an explorer with 4.6 and had this make another set of inserts.
If you change 1 you might as well change them all, when they blow out you lose your coil too. So instead of buying a new coil for every cylinder because of them getting broke from the plugs being blown out just out the kits in all the cylinders now and save a few bucks.
I haven't had any of these ever blow out.
I love your videos, I'm wondering if this was a problem with the two valve 4.6 engines in the crown vics, Grand Marquis???
I have to say this is the best overall video on this repair I've seen yet. Lots of them out there but this one is short, to the point and easy to understand the process. You can save a lot of time and money with this DYI video. THUMBS UP!
Whats really sad is lots of folks paid over $1500 for a spark plug replacement when one of the back ones blew out. No spark plug should ever cost $1500 replace, regardless of where it is. Whats really funny is how ford did the exact opposite with the 3vavles, made it so the suckers wouldn't even extract. I'm glad this issue is a thing of the past on their new motors.
I'll keep waiting until the new F-150 becomes affordable, guess its used Toyotas for another 10 years.
Very nicely done video! I'm completely ignorant about engines and their repair, but I am surprised to hear that blowing air into the cylinder will remove all of the micro particals of metal chips.
How isnt this not a recall that FORD has to fix?!
Yep or offer a discount for the repairs
Every 6.0 and 6.4 diesel engine should have been recalled by Ford too and for problems way worse than this.
Nice video and great work. My 1999 F-150 5.4L Triton V8 blew a plug out of the hole sometime between the 1-3 year old mark. I remember being all nervous about the motor being shot because of the metal shavings presumably going down the hole. I went to a Ford forum and everyone was saying as it was under warranty I should be demanding a crate new motor from Ford. I didn't know any better so that's what I did. Dealer put the kabash on that talk right away and repaired my motor after a thorough inspection. I think they did put a new head on it though. Got the truck back and it had an oil leak. Faulty head gasket or installation. Dealer took it back and put on another one. Once again, truck was dripping oil in the garage. 3rd time was a charm. However, the mechanic did put a nice long deep scratch above the driver front side wheel well. I couldn't get them to take ownership of that - they were set in their ways that the scratch was pre-existing. I knew that was pure BS I would have known as it was still a relatively new truck at the time. I let it go. What seems like would be a ton of work tearing down the head each time, @FordTechMakuloco makes it looks easy with his experience and care.
Thank you Brian. I appreciate and enjoy your videos.
Have this kit. Works well. V-10 has lost two plugs. Simple and quick repair. My kit tells me to use a JB weld type product on the inserts. Used a Cronatron welding product two part epoxy. First one popped 100,000 or so ago. Last one much more recent. So far so good.
I would have tapped that by hand making sure to break the chip after about half a turn. I'd lose my mind when I'm at work and my threads looked like that.
I was told back in the day when tapping a thread to go forward half a turn and back quarter of a turn till the tap is through... Then same with the final cut tap...
I have come to your channel as a resource on at least 4 occasions now, (when I really needed to learn something) and you've not failed to deliver yet. Thanks. I just had a spark plug blow out on the 2nd 4.6L I've owned. Someone else fixed the previous one years ago and I've never been able to get that plug out again! I'll try your fix myself this time. Then on to a 3.0 Taurus DOHC vacume leak I can't seem to locate! Thanks again for your channel.
nice! fortunately I never had this issue with the 4.6 in my crown vic or in my F-150. and hopefully will never have. I think you can avoid it by using more torque on the plugs, at least you made a video about it once.
Wasper216 too much torque is what causes the problem to begin with
Thank you for such a great to the point instructional video. I have a 2014 E250 with a 4.6 and number 2 blew out. I purchased the kit and worked as advertised. I did have to order the thread lock online as the auto stores and Grainger did not carry slow set lock. I am going with the Loctite 266 and hope that holds like the Time-Sert 6020
Thank you for this video!!
I did a repair on my 2000 5.4 about 18 years ago. I used the timesert repair kit and liked how the last threads were cold formed flaring the bottom of the insert out to lock it in place. That combined with locktite made it permanent. I’ve never had a timesert back out. It’s not a hard process but the back cylinders next to the firewall and adjacent to the brake master cylinder on the left and air conditioning on the right makes it a bear to reach. If I rebuilt it I would put inserts in every plug hole when the heads were done.
Very clever kit! I think I'd still be nervous doing anything like that lol you were so calm :)
Fascinating. I'm amazed that Ford got away with not having a recall or warranty extension, because this repair method is highly reliant on the mechanic's diligence such as yours. How many mechanics don't repeatedly go back in after every shaving with an endoscope? All those metal shavings flying all around reminds me of watching a hip replacement surgery. It's not pretty. :)
Really enjoy your videos. Well done pls keep posting thanks!
Very quality video, better than some of the manufacturer training LOL my only critique is to hold onto the brake clean straw, i shot one of those into a cylinder once and it took me hours to get it back out lol
One of the dumbest things ford ever did to a engine, spark plugs blowing hell even the model T figured that one out.
Spark plug blew out on my ford 2002 Triton engine. The coil and spark plug was laying on top of the engine. If it wasn't I would have had no idea what was wrong. Spark plug threads were still intact so I just screwed it back into the hole and it tightened. Probably just worked itself loose. Had the right tools to do it. If not for these TH-cam videos I would have junked the car. Feels good to fix your own car man
You know all many do some stupid stuff but this takes the cake. I saw like 3 threads for the spark plug why the heck would ford do this.Should there be a class action suit to make ford fix all those. And the second thing is how do you prevent this from happening check all your spark plug to make sure they’re at 25 pounds I like your videos by the way
This video has the best camera view of this job...most helpful. Awesome job!
i fill the cyl with Wd40 and suck the chips out with a suction hose..
I have been blessed.I have a 2006 Ford F150 4.6 with 227,500 miles.I have had no major problems.I did have to replace the alternator at 66,000 miles and the starter and fuel pump at over 200,000 and also the coils and plugs and it's still running good.
I used to have great interest in this when I owned a 4.6 engined F150, but no more. I will NEVER buy another Ford product EVER.
I just used this kit to fix my 2002 f250. Thank you for saving me a lot of money!!
but i dont understand why you didnt cover up the other sparkplug hole next to it #3
Thank you. Your video save me a huge repair bill. Did it myself.
Top notch video.