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we have a 2000 ford f150 with the 5.4 and the previous owner had used anti seize on the spark plugs so they came out with no troubles when i had to blow out the spark plug holes when i changed the intake manifold
@TheFred1952 From my understanding Ford got cheap (go figure) and didn't allow for enough threading in the original heads so over time it ejects the plug. 2-3 more millimeters of threading would have avoided the issue.
This kit works pretty well, I have used it once. One thing I would add to this would be put the newer ford 5.4L spark plugs from Champion in with this kit. The one piece design from Champion takes care of the issue the newer engines are having of the plug breaking off in two. Which has to be the most ridiculous thing that happens to these motors. So, side note, if you have a newer Ford 5.4L and haven't done the tune-up on it yet, might want to do this newer plug, or it gets expensive.
That is a spark plug for a newer 3 valve triton. It stopped the common sparkplug blow out like in the older 2 valve but the problem now is that they break at the porcelain and that is another different problem. There is another tool kit made to remove those broken sparkplugs. Thats ford engineering for you!! Great video!
i have same issue i did what u did in this video but what i dont understand is the plug is getting off the extension the extension stays on the motor block. when i inspect the plug is completely melted from the bottom of it with no treat. looks like it gets extremely hot and thats when it pop it out. do you think i might have a different issue? its a 97 ford explorer v8 . thanks for your help
thanks for the tutorial... I was about to put in another insert by tapping again... figured I'd try this and it's much easier although I've seen a few people talk about how they don't last... we'll see. Using mine for an experiment. lol
@@MarkMinistries no issues. Worked out great! Quick and clean. I've read how they are temporary but did well for me.... Only had truck another few hundred miles though...
What is the outside diameter of the Dorman / Napa tools' tap/threads? I am dealing with an E250 1999 Ford Van that a plug )#7( that popped out and had a 16mm oversized insert previously added by someone else, with a generic / chinese 14mm / 16mm step tap / Kit, any suggestions?
Duane, Nice video. If I could ask you a couple questions. What is the difference in cost to the customer, Dorman VS the old method? Was there more risk doing internal engine damage performing the drill and tap method? Thanks, Mark Hicks Wells Vehicle Electronics
D, I'm doing a tune up on a 2002 ford f150 4.6 litter shop air is not available, I had to use pb blaster to free up one spark plug, with plugs out injectors disconnected , coils unplugged, will turning the engine over a few times sufficient enough to clear the cylinders of foreign debri?
Rather than using a blower to clear out any shavings, wouldn't it be better to hook up a narrow flexible hose to a vacuum cleaner using duct tape? This uses the venturi effect to create a very high vacuum to suck out any shavings. I would hate for the blower to push a shaving in between the piston and cylinder wall just above the first ring; or maybe blow a shaving up through an open valve into the head?
@JohnzCarz The NEW trucks don't have spark plug problems anymore. I'm talking 09 and up. The 04-08 3valve motors though have another issue where tip of the plug breaks off in the head. There are special tools to extract these broken plugs if it does happen.
Very good step by step video. Wish I had known about it a few months ago. My mom's truck blew the sparkplug out of the head. I did it the old school way, tap and heli coil. Since I am a Chrysler guy I never pay much attention to what GM or Ford is doing. I know damn well Ford had these spark plugs blow out on the factory dynamo, yet they still went to production as is. Moron's.
I recently installed a dorman thread kit in a e250 with a 4.6, the plug is still fixed in the insert supplied with the kit as is the insert in the original threads. There is a compression loss has me thinking it's a hole or the plug expanded cracking the insert. Heat is my question could this aluminum melting heat be due to a lean condition on that cylinder. Mind I'm not asking for tech support but for a hole to be burnt past a insert there has to be a great deal of heat to do so. I now have this insert lock tite in the head with a huge compression leak, enough to destroy the boot and break the new coil pack. The parts house will warranty the dorman kit but what are the chances of me needing a timesert instead? Have yet to take apart ran out of daylight.
This looks like a repair that will work, but I feel sorry for the next guy that has to change the plug again. He won't know what plug and coil boot to use. The new plug also looks like one of those two piece plugs used in the newer 5.4L 3v that break off. I think the timesert repair is still the best option. While this dorman kit will work, lets just hope the truck will be in the bone yard before it needs another tuneup.
@nesgeal1 thanks!! The caddy is now running ok with 193000.. Miles .. When I got at auction it had 160000. I cleaned the Maf sensor and cleared up up the p0174..
I've had a spark plug blow out on my car once. It turned out I didn't tighten it well enough and worked itself lose and screwed out and once lose enough blew out. When I looked at it i just had to insert a new plug. I've never seen a plug blow out with threads and all.
ok so after you get this done, where are you going to find a replacement plug if needed or when you need to change them? I use NGK plugs in my truck and im sure this plug does not compare... Thats my only concern.
How permanent is this repair? I have heard that the heli-coil method will not last but using Time-serts is the common way to go for a long life repair. The cost is compared to the Time-sert method another question. I know that you can buy these Dorman kits and do the work in the driveway for $60 but what is the cost compared to a Time-sert style repair?
@fivefortyeye540i Part 2 may see black smoke at the tailpipe on revving the engine. look at raw data fuel trim especially long term. If the percentages are below 10 % then the fuel usage is not excessive. clean the mass airflow sensor. check your coolant temperature value. Caddy's are heavy cars and have large displacement engines so i'm not sure what mileage you think is normal for a caddy.make sure you do not have fuel leak or loss of fuel due to evaporation
i have one problem with using aniti seize compound and that will cause a problem on the plug refer to wells vid of an odd misfire problem for more info on what could happen
D,I have a 98 cadillac 4.6 l 191000k complant poor gas milage. Scanner shows no dtc just possible pending code (yellow light emissions) so looking at live data I noticed the bank1 o2 sensor was showing lean. 90mv at idle. as I gave it throtlle 2000rpm 02 sensor jump to 700mv,while at steady throttle it whet back down to 100 mv. The o2 sensor seems to be erratic switching slowly. I have checked for vacuum leaks thoroughly with carb cleaner. Fuel pressure is 42 specs says 45. I listen to fuel i
I had a plug blow out on my wifes Mitsubishi Galant 2.4. I was able to fix it after a week of OMG what do I do with a kit I got from o'reilly. The kit I got from pep boys wouldn't work because the head of the tool was so big that when I put a socket over it, it would no longer fit down the tube. The O'reilly kit had a head but also a square cut-out for a 3/8" extension. This method was the tap and then put a sleeve insert in. I didn't tap it down all the way but in the end it still worked good
The Ford Modular motor might be one of the most bulletproof engines ever built. Very common to see 4.6's and 5.4's with 300-400k miles without any major repairs. A leaky exhaust manifold does NOT make a motor "junk".
I have a V-10 in the Excursion. Less than 15,000 on a brand new crate motor. Blew a plug. Warranty was already up. : ( Do these inserts hold up over a period of time if installed correctly? I am kinda gun shy about the V-10 after having it break down like ours did 1,000 miles from home with 5 kids on board. Yes they are my kids. I am insane I know! I was lucky and the new plug held all the way home and blew out again the third time I drove it locally, after returning home. Any thoughts or feedback would be great!
Dave, my personal experience shows these repairs usually hold up. I've done dozens of them and all but one has held and is still holding. The one that didn't was pretty bad to start with and we knew it would be questionable. The key though is to be sure it is installed correctly
realfixesrealfast Thank you for the speedy response! After watching your video, I feel comfortable with this. Main thing is getting the insert started straight and keeping it straight! O'Reilley's down the street here in North Bend OR has the Dorman kit like you used in the video for $56 plus a new coil. Anyway, thanks for the great video and the response to my question!
realfixesrealfast can you remove the insert and reinstall it? The reason I ask is after installing the insert I found a small piece of metal on the top of the piston that did not blow out during the cleaning procedure. I can see the piece of metal with my inspection camera but i cant get my pickup tool inside of the insert to extract it.
I recently had a plug blow out on my 2000 excursion with the 5.4 I have been thinking about using this kit. would you recommend? I've heard bad and great things on this kit thanks in advance
The kit works fine. It's not an easy job though. Probably the people who don't like it are hurrying and not doing it right. Any kit that isn't used right will not give good results. Be patient, take your time, double check yourself and it will be fine.
I did this today but it seems like it went in way too easy. Is there any way to tell if it'll hold? It drives fine but I'm weary because of how easy it was
Make sure it fully threaded in. When I was installing mine it just turned and turned and after a while began to grab and got extremely tight. When you install is, put plenty of downward pressure on your tool to help the threading process. It should stop moving completely when it bottoms out.
if i am looking at this right we have a short reach 5.4 plug issue being replaced with the "newer" ford plug that has breakage issues albeit in a reciever cup that self taps into the earlier ford hole ? rather do it the "hard way" with the proper kit. good fix for the shadetree. i guess
The issue is withe the motorcraft 3v plug. Autolite remedied that problem with that type plug. Thats why the motorcraft plug isn't offered in this kit.
Just so everyone who tries this knows, it DOES work, however you need to know that in order for it to work you need to CRANK on that insert really really hard. Just about as hard as you can. Dont be gentle!!! Then to get the spark plug seated you need a super super deep socket. I had to buy one since the deep sockets I did have in 16mm/5/8 were too wide to fit down the little hole to the spark plug. It saved me about $600 and was way too easy for me not to try it! Anyone could do it!!!!
Midwest Resale this retread insert really sucks specially if you use loctite the reason. when replacing the spark plug the insert breaks since is too thin. i recomend you to use a helicoil thread repair kit really easy to use all you need is bearing grease to use as glue when driving in the tap (M14 X 1.25) so any debri sticks to it, takes 18 mm socket or 3/8 extension and ratchet. the kit comes with new insert threads different sizes and one solid steel rod to punch the insert when finish to lock it in place. heli- coil Sav-a thread spark plug thread repair kit. from ebay, O'reilly or napa. first step.- drill the new thread using the greased tap M14 X 1.25 make sure to center the tap when starting to drill. step.-2 clean and blow any debris using a compressor and carb cleaner. using the same tap which has a smaller thread size on the nose and fits the new insert. drive in the insert, make sure to apply a drop of loctite and then use the metal rod to lock it in place let the loctite dry before installing new plug. rod part# 5332- 14 tap part# 5329- 14
@fivefortyeye540i With your engine at operating temperature the design of oxygen sensors will allow it to switch between point 9 volts [900mv] and point 1 volts [100mv] Part of the test is to see at least 1 oscillation per second for a good sensor. If you do not have a LAB SCOPE. use a SCANNER and go to live data. select only!! the oxygen sensor from live data. observe the switching. That's the test for a good oxygen sensor. If your car is using excessive fuel you may see
Wouldn't it be easier just to use a regular spark plug repair tap and threads? I mean with this you are using a strange shaped plug, and it probably ends up costing more
@Nztimr33 Usually has to do with over-heating. Has nothing to do with the engineering, other than engineering the heads out of aluminum like every other post 1990 engine out there. If someone let's their engine overheat for any reason, the aluminum won't dissipate heat like it's supposed to, and is more susceptible to warping than the traditional steel heads used in the Ford 5.0's and 5.8's.
@Bushougoma "The only issue I see with this repair is the availability of the longer spark plug and possibly the boot for ignition system maintenance." I would think the most sensible thing to do after this repair is sell the vehicle; then you don't have to worry about replacement parts. LOL
When this problem was first happening years ago most ford dealerships had the policy of replacing the heads. Most independent shops would drill and helicoil the hole. Now ford dealerships do pretty much the same process we've all done for years. oh well
The next thing Dorman will make is an insert for when the insert blows out with an even longer spark plug and even shorter short boot LOL. If the aluminium on this cylinder head is so bad this is the next logical step.
blew a plug in my 4.6, tried this kit and it would not work. the insert wouldn't take hold. my guess is the hole is stripped out too far. 50 bucks down the drain
This might help. My v10 excursion blew one out, and I tried this kit. At first, I couldn't get it to bite like you. However, if changed from a deep well socket to a semi-shallow socket. I spent 20 minutes with deepwell, but after changing to a semi-shallow, it grabbed and threaded right in. It's working fine now.
lawrence hogan What year is your V10, is it a 2 valve?, im going to do mine and would like to know if your engine is the same as mine before it take the leap......thanks
Blake Ponders Hey Blake. I have a 2000 ford excursion with the 2 valve heads. I believe, but am not sure, that all the excursions had the 2 valve heads. It's been a year and I haven't had any problems with the insert or any of the other plugs since. Hope that this helps. Larry
Yes i thought about that scenario, if it does work i save hundreds, and if not ill keep the kit for an emergency. I would prefer it work though :), im assuming you had to take it in for a heli job, how much did you pay if you dont mind, got one quote for 450.00 so far.....thanks for the heads up..
Im sorry to hurt anyones feelings thats has had this happen but its only common for the ones that do it wrong. People just arent tightening them as they should. I have had my 5.4(00 F150) and a 4.6(98 Expedition) with many miles and never had an issue of such.
you know its bad when a company had to make a fix for a manufacter's defect, but at least somone is useing there brain out there to make products for the mechanic
old plug design blowed out of head, possible damage to threads! new plug design gets stuck in head now! and breaks off in two! now your even more screwed! where in the hell do they find these engineers? the insert you show and plug, is the new plugs in newer models, they redesigned the hole like that insert, they put style new plugs in them, that have threads center of plug, lower half breaks off in head, and more impossible to fix! they get stuck pretty good!
The theory of why the engine spits the plugs is that ford's 5.4L motors were equipped with very few threads in the spark plug bore. Thus more chance to eject the plugs. Ford actually put out a service bulletin to avoid anti-seize on the plug threads to lessen the chance of it happening. In my opinion , poor engineering but one sexy looking truck. By the way duane , lose the ring before you take a finger off , then youd stop doing videos and we cant afford that here lol
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I've put 5 of these on my 2000 F150. They've all held up for years, first one blew out 7 or 8 years ago. I recommend them highly.
12 years later the video is simple, a 19 year old apprentice can do it. thanks for the tutorial, finally got my 02 f150 back up and running!
You have the best videos out there with everything you done. Thank you for taking the time to help so many people.
Added to favorites! Thanks...have that problem with my Excursion V10. Very nice video
i tried this today and it worked like a charm for me what a life saver and money would recommend to any one no hokey fix to me
Oh man I love that socket you had, the one you turned to go from socket to driver that is something I need to get.
Nice to see someone actually using dielectric grease on those boots.
Great fix and one that can actually be done by the common man. . BTW, I need to update my socket wrenches, I like those swivel heads.
we have a 2000 ford f150 with the 5.4 and the previous owner had used anti seize on the spark plugs so they came out with no troubles when i had to blow out the spark plug holes when i changed the intake manifold
Worked great... I used my digital camera to do a 'visual' on the chamber. Food for thought.
@TheFred1952 From my understanding Ford got cheap (go figure) and didn't allow for enough threading in the original heads so over time it ejects the plug. 2-3 more millimeters of threading would have avoided the issue.
This kit works pretty well, I have used it once. One thing I would add to this would be put the newer ford 5.4L spark plugs from Champion in with this kit. The one piece design from Champion takes care of the issue the newer engines are having of the plug breaking off in two. Which has to be the most ridiculous thing that happens to these motors. So, side note, if you have a newer Ford 5.4L and haven't done the tune-up on it yet, might want to do this newer plug, or it gets expensive.
good stuff thanks for all the vids
Thank You, Great quick repair. only drawback is the replacement plugs are 12.00 each. A whole lot cheaper than paying for a hell coil repair.
That is a spark plug for a newer 3 valve triton. It stopped the common sparkplug blow out like in the older 2 valve but the problem now is that they break at the porcelain and that is another different problem. There is another tool kit made to remove those broken sparkplugs. Thats ford engineering for you!! Great video!
Yup, I love my 250 but am worried I'll keep having issues with fords people overlooking these things.
Thanks very much, very helpfull.
i have same issue i did what u did in this video but what i dont understand is the plug is getting off the extension the extension stays on the motor block. when i inspect the plug is completely melted from the bottom of it with no treat. looks like it gets extremely hot and thats when it pop it out. do you think i might have a different issue? its a 97 ford explorer v8 . thanks for your help
Just had this problem on my 2005 f150 4.6 2v. Does this fix apply to my engine as well?
thank you for the vid you helpd me now thank
Thanks, Duane.
If you ever get a chance to show how to do a more general spark plug thread repair, please do that some time in the future also.
Thanks for the video. I've done a few by drilling, this is mutch better.
thanks for the tutorial... I was about to put in another insert by tapping again... figured I'd try this and it's much easier although I've seen a few people talk about how they don't last... we'll see. Using mine for an experiment. lol
How did it go?
@@MarkMinistries no issues. Worked out great! Quick and clean. I've read how they are temporary but did well for me.... Only had truck another few hundred miles though...
What is the outside diameter of the Dorman / Napa tools' tap/threads? I am dealing with an E250 1999 Ford Van that a plug )#7( that popped out and had a 16mm oversized insert previously added by someone else, with a generic / chinese 14mm / 16mm step tap / Kit, any suggestions?
Duane,
Nice video. If I could ask you a couple questions. What is the difference in cost to the customer, Dorman VS the old method? Was there more risk doing internal engine damage performing the drill and tap method?
Thanks,
Mark Hicks
Wells Vehicle Electronics
If I may, what brand of ratchet was that, those are incredible! Ty for your explanation, I feel much more confident in this repair.
You can get that type of ratchet at harbor freight, the one i have has been awesome for years.
D, I'm doing a tune up on a 2002 ford f150 4.6 litter shop air is not available, I had to use pb blaster to free up one spark plug, with plugs out injectors disconnected , coils unplugged, will turning the engine over a few times sufficient enough to clear the cylinders of foreign debri?
Rather than using a blower to clear out any shavings, wouldn't it be better to hook up a narrow flexible hose to a vacuum cleaner using duct tape? This uses the venturi effect to create a very high vacuum to suck out any shavings. I would hate for the blower to push a shaving in between the piston and cylinder wall just above the first ring; or maybe blow a shaving up through an open valve into the head?
I was wondering what happens when you have to replace the spark plug again? do they come separately?
@JohnzCarz
The NEW trucks don't have spark plug problems anymore. I'm talking 09 and up. The 04-08 3valve motors though have another issue where tip of the plug breaks off in the head. There are special tools to extract these broken plugs if it does happen.
Are they still holding up?? I have one I need to do and hoping this will work!
Very good step by step video. Wish I had known about it a few months ago. My mom's truck blew the sparkplug out of the head. I did it the old school way, tap and heli coil.
Since I am a Chrysler guy I never pay much attention to what GM or Ford is doing. I know damn well Ford had these spark plugs blow out on the factory dynamo, yet they still went to production as is. Moron's.
Self tapping is the best where can I find this for 04 mustang GT 4.6 2valve
Don't specific engines require specific spark plugs? Can you use this generic kit for all engines?
What brand of ratchet is that your using?
+MrPerry61 It's a Snap-on. We use that style in our shop as well.
I recently installed a dorman thread kit in a e250 with a 4.6, the plug is still fixed in the insert supplied with the kit as is the insert in the original threads. There is a compression loss has me thinking it's a hole or the plug expanded cracking the insert. Heat is my question could this aluminum melting heat be due to a lean condition on that cylinder. Mind I'm not asking for tech support but for a hole to be burnt past a insert there has to be a great deal of heat to do so. I now have this insert lock tite in the head with a huge compression leak, enough to destroy the boot and break the new coil pack. The parts house will warranty the dorman kit but what are the chances of me needing a timesert instead? Have yet to take apart ran out of daylight.
Did you ever figure out what it was?
This looks like a repair that will work, but I feel sorry for the next guy that has to change the plug again. He won't know what plug and coil boot to use. The new plug also looks like one of those two piece plugs used in the newer 5.4L 3v that break off. I think the timesert repair is still the best option. While this dorman kit will work, lets just hope the truck will be in the bone yard before it needs another tuneup.
This is the equivalent of the “plug vs patch” debate…it’ll be just fine.
@nesgeal1 thanks!! The caddy is now running ok with 193000.. Miles .. When I got at auction it had 160000. I cleaned the Maf sensor and cleared up up the p0174..
I've had a spark plug blow out on my car once. It turned out I didn't tighten it well enough and worked itself lose and screwed out and once lose enough blew out. When I looked at it i just had to insert a new plug. I've never seen a plug blow out with threads and all.
What brand wrenches are those?
I'm assuming you don't lose ignition spark by it being smaller?
Will this work on mercury 02 4.6
ok so after you get this done, where are you going to find a replacement plug if needed or when you need to change them? I use NGK plugs in my truck and im sure this plug does not compare... Thats my only concern.
I believe the spark plug that is used in that kit is from a 3 valve. I could be wrong but looks the same
six year after the question... but for anyone else have the same question- the insert will blow out long before the spark plug gets worn out.
You must use job weld on the threads - it will never blow out.
Wow neat
How permanent is this repair? I have heard that the heli-coil method will not last but using Time-serts is the common way to go for a long life repair. The cost is compared to the Time-sert method another question. I know that you can buy these Dorman kits and do the work in the driveway for $60 but what is the cost compared to a Time-sert style repair?
Injectors with oscilloscope they seem to be in symphony with one another, Could this be a case of a lazy o2 sensor
@fivefortyeye540i Part 2 may see black smoke at the tailpipe on revving the engine. look at raw data fuel trim especially long term. If the percentages are below 10 % then the fuel usage is not excessive. clean the mass airflow sensor. check your coolant temperature value. Caddy's are heavy cars and have large displacement engines so i'm not sure what mileage you think is normal for a caddy.make sure you do not have fuel leak or loss of fuel due to evaporation
i have one problem with using aniti seize compound and that will cause a problem on the plug refer to wells vid of an odd misfire problem for more info on what could happen
this is cool.
D,I have a 98 cadillac 4.6 l 191000k complant poor gas milage. Scanner shows no dtc just possible pending code (yellow light emissions) so looking at live data I noticed the bank1 o2 sensor was showing lean. 90mv at idle. as I gave it throtlle 2000rpm 02 sensor jump to 700mv,while at steady throttle it whet back down to 100 mv. The o2 sensor seems to be erratic switching slowly. I have checked for vacuum leaks thoroughly with carb cleaner. Fuel pressure is 42 specs says 45. I listen to fuel i
I bought a 14mm socket and it did not fit the new spark plug!!! Same kit bought At oreily
What kind of ratchets are you using?
I had a plug blow out on my wifes Mitsubishi Galant 2.4. I was able to fix it after a week of OMG what do I do with a kit I got from o'reilly. The kit I got from pep boys wouldn't work because the head of the tool was so big that when I put a socket over it, it would no longer fit down the tube. The O'reilly kit had a head but also a square cut-out for a 3/8" extension. This method was the tap and then put a sleeve insert in. I didn't tap it down all the way but in the end it still worked good
head on ford gas motors from 97-03 have only 5 or 6 turns instead 9-11
Nice trick.
So how do you get it started? Just push down with some pressure??
I'm having thr same problem. Ever figure it out?
The Ford Modular motor might be one of the most bulletproof engines ever built.
Very common to see 4.6's and 5.4's with 300-400k miles without any major repairs. A leaky exhaust manifold does NOT make a motor "junk".
Mine has had just about every spark plug blow out by now, but have 240, 000 miles plus, I wouldn't cuss about that
I have a V-10 in the Excursion. Less than 15,000 on a brand new crate motor. Blew a plug. Warranty was already up. : ( Do these inserts hold up over a period of time if installed correctly? I am kinda gun shy about the V-10 after having it break down like ours did 1,000 miles from home with 5 kids on board. Yes they are my kids. I am insane I know! I was lucky and the new plug held all the way home and blew out again the third time I drove it locally, after returning home. Any thoughts or feedback would be great!
Dave, my personal experience shows these repairs usually hold up. I've done dozens of them and all but one has held and is still holding. The one that didn't was pretty bad to start with and we knew it would be questionable. The key though is to be sure it is installed correctly
realfixesrealfast
Thank you for the speedy response! After watching your video, I feel comfortable with this. Main thing is getting the insert started straight and keeping it straight! O'Reilley's down the street here in North Bend OR has the Dorman kit like you used in the video for $56 plus a new coil. Anyway, thanks for the great video and the response to my question!
realfixesrealfast can you remove the insert and reinstall it? The reason I ask is after installing the insert I found a small piece of metal on the top of the piston that did not blow out during the cleaning procedure. I can see the piece of metal with my inspection camera but i cant get my pickup tool inside of the insert to extract it.
I recently had a plug blow out on my 2000 excursion with the 5.4 I have been thinking about using this kit. would you recommend? I've heard bad and great things on this kit thanks in advance
The kit works fine. It's not an easy job though. Probably the people who don't like it are hurrying and not doing it right. Any kit that isn't used right will not give good results. Be patient, take your time, double check yourself and it will be fine.
+realfixesrealfast ok yeah that makes sense, thank you for your reply!
brandon estrada No! Use a Big-sert!
@@martystevens3969 you must get kickbacks from them.. doesn't matter what works is what works
I did this today but it seems like it went in way too easy. Is there any way to tell if it'll hold? It drives fine but I'm weary because of how easy it was
Make sure it fully threaded in. When I was installing mine it just turned and turned and after a while began to grab and got extremely tight. When you install is, put plenty of downward pressure on your tool to help the threading process. It should stop moving completely when it bottoms out.
April Sanders is that part still holding up for u ?
R.I.P. April
If u push in on the spring and turn at the same it will come off much easier
@markjhicks this is alot quicker than drilling and tapping, plus there is alot that goes into tapping and inserting a new thread sleeve, not a fun job
Why does this happen? How can this be prevented?
the size 17 socket is not fitting down the hole any advice
Homelesskateboards exact issue I have at the moment. I running out of ideas...
if i am looking at this right we have a short reach 5.4 plug issue being replaced with the "newer" ford plug that has breakage issues albeit in a reciever cup that self taps into the earlier ford hole ?
rather do it the "hard way" with the proper kit. good fix for the shadetree. i guess
The issue is withe the motorcraft 3v plug. Autolite remedied that problem with that type plug. Thats why the motorcraft plug isn't offered in this kit.
Dad's 01 f150 with over 200k miles just had the spark plug blow out. it's the drivers side in the back of the engine. Dam!. lol
Did he get it done any tips for me?
Will this work on a 4.6? And where do I find this kit
Yes
Does this work with the 4.6?
They tell u it doesn't but yes it does
Just so everyone who tries this knows, it DOES work, however you need to know that in order for it to work you need to CRANK on that insert really really hard. Just about as hard as you can. Dont be gentle!!! Then to get the spark plug seated you need a super super deep socket. I had to buy one since the deep sockets I did have in 16mm/5/8 were too wide to fit down the little hole to the spark plug. It saved me about $600 and was way too easy for me not to try it! Anyone could do it!!!!
How long does it take an average guy to do this
haha wow spark plugs that blow out of the cylinder head well engineered!
I think it was a lack of engineering actually.
Why is it always the front plug?
It’s not
So it doesnt need to be drilled because I can't get it started
Rob W did you get an answer? I can get it started either!
Midwest Resale this retread insert really sucks specially if you use loctite the reason. when replacing the spark plug the insert breaks since is too thin. i recomend you to use a helicoil thread repair kit really easy to use all you need is bearing grease to use as glue when driving in the tap (M14 X 1.25) so any debri sticks to it, takes 18 mm socket or 3/8 extension and ratchet. the kit comes with new insert threads different sizes and one solid steel rod to punch the insert when finish to lock it in place. heli- coil Sav-a thread spark plug thread repair kit. from ebay, O'reilly or napa.
first step.- drill the new thread using the greased tap M14 X 1.25 make sure to center the tap when starting to drill.
step.-2 clean and blow any debris using a compressor and carb cleaner. using the same tap which has a smaller thread size on the nose and fits the new insert. drive in the insert, make sure to apply a drop of loctite and then use the metal rod to lock it in place let the loctite dry before installing new plug. rod part# 5332- 14
tap part# 5329- 14
Is that 6 or 12 point 17mm
@fivefortyeye540i With your engine at operating temperature the design of oxygen sensors will allow it to switch between point 9 volts [900mv] and point 1 volts [100mv] Part of the test is to see at least 1 oscillation per second for a good sensor. If you do not have a LAB SCOPE. use a SCANNER and go to live data. select only!! the oxygen sensor from live data. observe the switching. That's the test for a good oxygen sensor. If your car is using excessive fuel you may see
Wouldn't it be easier just to use a regular spark plug repair tap and threads? I mean with this you are using a strange shaped plug, and it probably ends up costing more
AwesomenessIskey , the design is unusual so it's accomodated
Its a plug from the ford 3v engine.
@Nztimr33 Usually has to do with over-heating. Has nothing to do with the engineering, other than engineering the heads out of aluminum like every other post 1990 engine out there. If someone let's their engine overheat for any reason, the aluminum won't dissipate heat like it's supposed to, and is more susceptible to warping than the traditional steel heads used in the Ford 5.0's and 5.8's.
@Bushougoma "The only issue I see with this repair is the availability of the longer spark plug and possibly the boot for ignition system maintenance."
I would think the most sensible thing to do after this repair is sell the vehicle; then you don't have to worry about replacement parts. LOL
I guess the moral of this story is that if this is a common problem with Ford's 5.4L, Don't buy one.
what is the theory as to why they blow out?
Fred Sitzenstock usually not tight enough and it only has about 5 turns in threads
it is common on 97-03 only ford gas motors
Thanks🍺🍺🍺
@Rolex4 those are called Roto ratchet
snap on and gearwrench do those king of ratchet
@Michiganborn1969 there great motors, everything has its problems no matter what it is.
When this problem was first happening years ago most ford dealerships had the policy of replacing the heads. Most independent shops would drill and helicoil the hole. Now ford dealerships do pretty much the same process we've all done for years. oh well
@TheGadgetAddict i think thats snap on
Plug is actually 15mm
Godd repair, Duane, but be careful. Don't rev that motor too much or another spark plug might pop out.
hola quien puede alludarme donde puedo concebir un flotador para la gasolina de una ford ranger 1977
The next thing Dorman will make is an insert for when the insert blows out with an even longer spark plug and even shorter short boot LOL. If the aluminium on this cylinder head is so bad this is the next logical step.
I have this same truck and motor, now Im gonna be worried about the damn spark plug flying out! :)
Its been 7 years... Did one ever fly out?
blew a plug in my 4.6, tried this kit and it would not work. the insert wouldn't take hold. my guess is the hole is stripped out too far. 50 bucks down the drain
This might help. My v10 excursion blew one out, and I tried this kit. At first, I couldn't get it to bite like you. However, if changed from a deep well socket to a semi-shallow socket. I spent 20 minutes with deepwell, but after changing to a semi-shallow, it grabbed and threaded right in. It's working fine now.
lawrence hogan What year is your V10, is it a 2 valve?, im going to do mine and would like to know if your engine is the same as mine before it take the leap......thanks
Blake Ponders Hey Blake. I have a 2000 ford excursion with the 2 valve heads. I believe, but am not sure, that all the excursions had the 2 valve heads. It's been a year and I haven't had any problems with the insert or any of the other plugs since. Hope that this helps. Larry
lawrence hogan Wow, fast reply, thanks.Yours should be the same as mine, good news, have a great weekend :)
Yes i thought about that scenario, if it does work i save hundreds, and if not ill keep the kit for an emergency. I would prefer it work though :), im assuming you had to take it in for a heli job, how much did you pay if you dont mind, got one quote for 450.00 so far.....thanks for the heads up..
Im sorry to hurt anyones feelings thats has had this happen but its only common for the ones that do it wrong. People just arent tightening them as they should. I have had my 5.4(00 F150) and a 4.6(98 Expedition) with many miles and never had an issue of such.
fordwindsor351 does it work for mercury 4.6
Did Ford ever fix the design so it doesn't happen anymore?
Lol no they made it worse. Now the plugs break off
you know its bad when a company had to make a fix for a manufacter's defect, but at least somone is useing there brain out there to make products for the mechanic
Could have used that $400 dollars ago...
That's not going to hold up! You need to use a Big-sert!
Carl What is a Big-sert ?
The original coil looks like it would've been just fine.
will this work for a 2007 chevy impala?
old plug design blowed out of head, possible damage to threads! new plug design gets stuck in head now! and breaks off in two! now your even more screwed! where in the hell do they find these engineers? the insert you show and plug, is the new plugs in newer models, they redesigned the hole like that insert, they put style new plugs in them, that have threads center of plug, lower half breaks off in head, and more impossible to fix! they get stuck pretty good!
The theory of why the engine spits the plugs is that ford's 5.4L motors were equipped with very few threads in the spark plug bore. Thus more chance to eject the plugs. Ford actually put out a service bulletin to avoid anti-seize on the plug threads to lessen the chance of it happening. In my opinion , poor engineering but one sexy looking truck. By the way duane , lose the ring before you take a finger off , then youd stop doing videos and we cant afford that here lol