I'm gonna be honest (Thanks, Bourbon) You look, act and sound like an old friend of mine that passed away a few years back. That's what brought me (could get into how, but that's for another time), your knowledge, experience and demeanor is what kept me. Just wanted to say thanks.
Richard, love your channel! Thank you for the great posts! I was looking into powder coating myself for large scale structural steel beams. I ran into an excellent tip. The only reason that you HAVE to electrostatically charge these pieces is because you need the powder to adhere to the part, right? Well, for the really small parts, like the middle of the "O" in your sign, if you'll preheat that small part to 400F first and let it soak at the temperature for awhile, you can actually pull the part from the oven and spray the powder coat on it without any ground wire at all. It is called flocking and is done on all kinds of materials that are non-conductive. It should finish out the same as the rest of your sign work if you're using the same powder batch, but you'll have to test for color uniformity. Good luck and thank you for the copper foil tape tip! Could come in very useful! Take care, Russ
Yeah, this is a process that is used plenty. The problem is "how do you hold the part?" with flat pieces like this, you need something to attach to the blind side of the part. In the past I've tried magnets, but they distort the color of the powder, maybe due to uneven settling. It's subtle, but I've tried it 3 times, each time had to be redone.
I restore vintage binoculars and am considering another paint method. However, those parts are very small. This little tip just might just be the thing to make powder coating them possible. Thanks for sharing.
GENIUS! This is awesome. I powder coat small lighting parts and to say setting up various jigs with plugs and wire etc is a pain would be the understatement of the century. This is going to save me so much time. STOKED!
I ordered some and It works great, even on a larger piece where you want to ground directly to the part, but don't really have a place to attach the ground wire. I just take a piece of it and fold it over a couple of times (so it doesn't stick to the ground lead) leaving some of the adhesive part exposed, stick it to the bottom (say... a metal flag or other wall hanging) and just attach my ground. When I'm done I just peel it off. Say you want to put another coat on (clear coat or maybe you're two-toning) you can put a piece of polyester tape over the copper tape and that place will stay bare metal for when you go to put another piece of copper tape on. Thanks for the info on this tape. I never would have considered there being something like this out there
I have a question that isn't really related to this video, but I'm hoping someone can help me out anyway. I'm just starting to explore Powder Coating for the hardware on these Hook and Ring Toss games I make (there's whole build video on my channel if you want context). I just ordered some startup powder coating supplies, but am still mildly concerned about one aspect. I need to coat the entire surface of an O ring and am thinking I'll just rest the ring on a conductive wire and then there will only be one tiny spot on the inside of the ring that won't be coated. So my first question is, is resting the ring on the wire enough to charge it for the powder? My second question is, can I just coat the ring, shift it so an already coated side is sitting on the wire, and then coat the bald spot?
Great tip! Kory is currently building a powder coat oven for our shop!
Some day I will too
I'm gonna be honest (Thanks, Bourbon) You look, act and sound like an old friend of mine that passed away a few years back. That's what brought me (could get into how, but that's for another time), your knowledge, experience and demeanor is what kept me.
Just wanted to say thanks.
no problem!
Excellent tip! I do my own coating and have always wondered what the best way to keep a hold of small parts is.
That tape is for doing stained glass. You wrap the edges of the glass and solder them together.
yeah, used for lots of things, keeping slugs out of gardens, brush contacts, solder pads, etc, but stained glass is a big market for it.
Richard, love your channel! Thank you for the great posts! I was looking into powder coating myself for large scale structural steel beams. I ran into an excellent tip. The only reason that you HAVE to electrostatically charge these pieces is because you need the powder to adhere to the part, right? Well, for the really small parts, like the middle of the "O" in your sign, if you'll preheat that small part to 400F first and let it soak at the temperature for awhile, you can actually pull the part from the oven and spray the powder coat on it without any ground wire at all. It is called flocking and is done on all kinds of materials that are non-conductive. It should finish out the same as the rest of your sign work if you're using the same powder batch, but you'll have to test for color uniformity. Good luck and thank you for the copper foil tape tip! Could come in very useful! Take care, Russ
Yeah, this is a process that is used plenty. The problem is "how do you hold the part?" with flat pieces like this, you need something to attach to the blind side of the part.
In the past I've tried magnets, but they distort the color of the powder, maybe due to uneven settling. It's subtle, but I've tried it 3 times, each time had to be redone.
Wow that's a really cool tape. Great video! Glad Chad could play along, too!
I restore vintage binoculars and am considering another paint method. However, those parts are very small. This little tip just might just be the thing to make powder coating them possible. Thanks for sharing.
I just priced out a plasma table... 😣... man I have some saving to do! Cool tip bud.
Build your own for 25% of the cost..
Nice problem solving Rich! :)
Very good explanation, if a party isn't in the mindset to use that, well, tuff weld bumps ahead !!
GENIUS! This is awesome. I powder coat small lighting parts and to say setting up various jigs with plugs and wire etc is a pain would be the understatement of the century. This is going to save me so much time. STOKED!
Glad it helped!
I ordered some and It works great, even on a larger piece where you want to ground directly to the part, but don't really have a place to attach the ground wire. I just take a piece of it and fold it over a couple of times (so it doesn't stick to the ground lead) leaving some of the adhesive part exposed, stick it to the bottom (say... a metal flag or other wall hanging) and just attach my ground. When I'm done I just peel it off. Say you want to put another coat on (clear coat or maybe you're two-toning) you can put a piece of polyester tape over the copper tape and that place will stay bare metal for when you go to put another piece of copper tape on.
Thanks for the info on this tape. I never would have considered there being something like this out there
Instead of pulling it off, just cut it with an xacto knife. Then the pc stays intact
Nice tip. I ll keep that in mind.
Glad to learn this trick, thanks!
that is a great solution!
Damn. How did I miss this? 🤣 that’s a great solution. I’m going to pick some of that up.
VHB all the way. Great tip for a niche production process, much appreciated
I have a question that isn't really related to this video, but I'm hoping someone can help me out anyway. I'm just starting to explore Powder Coating for the hardware on these Hook and Ring Toss games I make (there's whole build video on my channel if you want context). I just ordered some startup powder coating supplies, but am still mildly concerned about one aspect. I need to coat the entire surface of an O ring and am thinking I'll just rest the ring on a conductive wire and then there will only be one tiny spot on the inside of the ring that won't be coated. So my first question is, is resting the ring on the wire enough to charge it for the powder? My second question is, can I just coat the ring, shift it so an already coated side is sitting on the wire, and then coat the bald spot?
First question: yes, 2nd: probably not, the reheating will soften the powder where it's sitting, leaving a mark
@@42Fab Ah that makes sense. Thank you for taking the time to respond :)
How well did the tape survive the baking process? Ie. Your parts didn't fall off from the adhesive melting?
Held on just fine, you can see how it even got powder coated when I tear it off
Omg the dewalt battery is purple
never used powder coating before, but would a small magnet work or will it interfere with the powder coating and the current
Works sometimes, other times it throws off the powder, most often in colors with metal flake or texture
Nice tip 42fab bro
Have you had any issues with that tape letting go? The description says that it isn't rated for that high of heat.
None thus far YMMV
Who does your powder coating?
I'm located in Yukon.
I use Powder Coat America and Pro Coat, both right off SW 29th and I35. Tell them I sent you.
where is the link?
Directly below in the details, but here too: amzn.to/2Je0hh6
Thia is one of those aha moments for sure
I would probably use a magnet.
Magnets mess up the static attraction of the powder
@@42Fab really? That's kinda interesting.