I used to do some small parts with a heat gun. I would get the part really hot first with the heat gun, then powder coat it. The powder will still fairly well because it's partly melting onto the part. Then finish it off with more heat.
@@sikandar0x9 A motorcycle engine casing is aluminum and the first thing that you will have to do is to off-gas it otherwise you will get a crappy finish. That means taking it off the bike and baking it in an oven for 20 minutes or so ( better Google that to get better info than I can give you.) If you have an oven to do this, then just use it for the final PC job. Secondly, I have 3 bikes and many more in my past and would never consider PCing any engine parts. Certainly not myself. Finally, I would be very suspect of an engine case being badly contaminated with oil and road crap so cleaning it will also be a big challenge. It has to be spotless.
I do a pretty fair amount of powder coating in my back yard shop, and if the part(s) are small enough, I use a toaster oven. If the parts are larger, then I use an old discarded kitchen oven for them. Never tried a heat gun because the toaster oven is so easy to use for the smaller parts. Thumbs Up!
Put that in some kind of metal box so that it retains some of the heat. A heat gun is just like an oven with a fan. You could get a few heat guns and make a large metal box to cure larger parts. It would be interesting to see if pre heating gives a better outcome.
I've done this on a larger scale with quarts infared heaters and it worked but a little too well ahah, not only did it cure my part but it melted the wires for the heaters 😂
i powder coat and yes you can you have to preheat the part with the gun first then powder coat the part then cure on high setting the preheat will make the powder coat stick so you can use the high heat setting
This was a cool idea. I did find it funny that when you turned the piece around to cure the other side, you ended up blowing heat on the same side. LOL! It was the effort/thought that counted.
Fun experiment and great channel, we use you guys for all our replacement parts for our sandblaster and love the service. With that said, I strongly recommend you follow the powder manufacturers tech sheet and cure for that time once the part reaches it. This was basically melting plastic, the chemical reaction occurs at the proper temp for the proper amount of time- Which gets you the durability and corrosion protection. If your looking for long term durability you need to follow tech sheet. We cover lots of this information on our channel, and love to help new coaters!
I've been told be a few guys this is how they cure powder on center caps for wheels so I've been curious to test my own self, I just haven't had any centercaps or time to check into it. Cool video
Great job and a good Video. I had purchased a new powder coating 7 months ago, but had no oven. I also thought about using my heat gun or a couple of infrared bulbs like I use to do for drying paint work on cars. Infrared bulbs pull a lot of current, but get really hot hot to the point they can bubble your paint if to close. So you may want to do a video of one on a manifold or other engine part. I am thinking of trying it on a refresh of my 76 Corvette manifold. Thanks again. Great video. Thumbs up
Just like Dave M. below here. I have powder coated with a torch and a heat gun. They both work. We're not splitting the atom here. Its pretty see spot run. First, I preheat the part slightly. Then if I dont want to spray it on I use a small teaspoon that snaps closed. Then I just sprinkle it on as needed. Cure with a heat gun. Good Job!
So i had a aluminum console for a boat built and the guy put the cup holder on the wrong side that was in the way of the dang throttle box so I cut the cup holder off with a Dremel and now have 2 small areas thst sit on top of a pipe i used a Dremel tool to smooth over with sanding wheels . I'm going to try your method . Maybe layer it do like 2 thicker layers I was wondering since my whole setup is already powdered how I'd go about touching that area up . Guess I could use my heat gun heat up the area then figure out a way to get some powder on it and take my time so I don't blow it off the part
@@nathanw5747 You can try heating the part, put some powder on a spoon, then holding the spoon close to the heated spot, use a straw to carefully blow some powder on to it. It's gonna be tricky but should work. Lmk I can help anywhere.-Brad
@Brad Hanson yeah going to try that along with I have the high temperature powder coat tape Likey tape off the existing area so I don't get powder everywhere
I do this to get the powder to stick to the part then i hit it with a propane torch or let it sit infront of a propane heater works fine for me...ive dropped part that ive powder coated using this method and it didnt scratch or chip so im assuming it cured all the way
As regards to using a heat gun, when I get a new powder paint I will put a small sprinkle of it onto an aluminum pie tin and heat it up with my heat gun. It gives me a good idea of what the color will look like rather than wasting it on a project if I don't like the paint color. Start Heat at long distance away and then within 30 seconds move it closer and closer to the powder paint and it will start to gloss.
Nice -- how about the heat gun feeding into a small insulated box. I remember doing a solar over back in the day and it does not take much to heat up a small insulated box to a nice temperature. Lightbulb - EasyBake oven baby! Cheers Cheers
I’ve been powder coating for years i build jet skis for a living and it always took so long to get parts back from powder foster and with jetskis parts aren’t very big started with an old crappy oven then i stepped up to an electric smoker (works great installed a fan on inside to circulate air), i still use it for small parts and to a small but decent size diy oven bought plans off internet, I’ve used a heat gun before and gotten mixed results, the parts that i preheated before hand and that were sold colors like black, red, white came out good, prismatic colors it’s a struggle to heat evenly and u need to heat those parts evenly to come out but they cured just didn’t look the best but plain solid colors u can do it with heat gun with pretty good success and even better pre heating
I have a question, can you touch up powder with this method or using a heat gun? Like a scratch, could I prep the small area and powder it and bake it. Will it look the same with the rest of the powdered product
Interesting idea. Get powder fixed with heat gun then you could pop in a toaster oven for more curing. There’s been times I’ve wanted to coat something small but didn’t want to fire up oven.
I will try with the barbeque grill i have some aluminum tubing wich is part of my drill extentions i have 3 length sizes i will try with the motorized spinner i use for the whole chiken and let see what happen do i need 400° or higher ?
I like your videos, you present your information well. I see you have a really high ceiling, you could build an area with a second floor to expand your workspace a little and store the rarely used tools up there, or suspend things from the ceiling with a block and tackle and lower them when you need them to maximize your space. You should have used the insulated box with the heat gun.
Hi, congrats for both videos. You communicate very well. I did the same as you did in this video a few days ago. and it worked out, I guess, also. I'm not sure how it would do for a big part, but it sounds ok to me for small part. Although, how would I know that the part it's not fully cured if not by through visual inspection?
I'd like to see you test this with a propane heating torch. I've seen a video of a guy using one on chrome powder coat. He said it worked great but I have my doubts.
There is no reason to doubt that. Propane burns at 3600 degrees Fahrenheit. 9 times the required 400 degrees Fahrenheit. You have to worry about burning the powder with that. Not that it isn’t fully cured. However if you are burning the powder it would turn black and it would smoke and smell terrible so you would know. Just hold it the appropriate distance for correct amount of time. Anyway just find a infrared heater on Amazon. Works on any size part and cheap.
Stabilize that flat surface in a horizontal plane and point the gun downward onto the surface. This also allows for "extra" powder to be added. And for a real treat - go to watch a cast iron claw foot bathtub being glassed Several person crew The wranglers wrestle the orientation of the surface One person heats it with a "zippo" (think flame thrower from World War II) And if course it is suspended from a fork lift or an A-frame And the specialist is the one that sprinkles the powder I have watched this in person while waiting to unload a flatbed trailer. Also watched a cast iron sink being re-glassed in St. Louis Learned how so many folks did their jobs in 20 years of OTR 😅
Keep in mind the size of the piece. If the part was really big, it would require something more than a heat gun due to the amount of time it would take to heat that part.
That's all I use old kitchen oven for my bike parts. & for frame use a clothing recycling bin gas burner sticking through the bottom with metal plate cover over the flame. barbeque temp gauge & a electric fan from a oven at the top. it only takes 15 minute's anyway 20 minutes depends what powder your useing can use them metal fileing draws yano like school's uster have
I came up with idea of using heat gun to repair imperfections on powder coated components (only a small ones) so my firm don’t have to spend extra time/money on fixing it. Powder coat gets cured in 180 degrees of celcius or 356 fahrenheit over 10 minutes
@@karsonjones2878 we primarily used it on linear pieces only like a/c registers as the powder cured we would move the lamps down the pole but if you're already using an oven it's more like going backward in sophistication.
i guess is a trick thing: they say "cured" i guess is more like melting a plastic over a piece of metal. probably there are different coats.. with different processes.. but sometimes this sentence will be valid. you melt it and thats all
Melting powder is very different from a properly cured powder coat. I would suggest learning about the polymer for a start. Powder coating is cured by maintaining the proper time and temperature of the substrate, typically 400° f for 10 minutes.
Does anyone have experience curing powder coating for a handrail that is installed...if building a "tent" around the railing and used a heat gun to cure it in place would work? The other idea would be to buy 2 IR curing lamps and place each one on opposite sides of the railing and move it along as the rail cures. Any thoughts are appreciated
I used to do some small parts with a heat gun. I would get the part really hot first with the heat gun, then powder coat it. The powder will still fairly well because it's partly melting onto the part. Then finish it off with more heat.
@@justinsteele2928 I am literally on the same boat, I’m going to try this on Monday
will it work on motorcycle engine Casing???
@@sikandar0x9 A motorcycle engine casing is aluminum and the first thing that you will have to do is to off-gas it otherwise you will get a crappy finish. That means taking it off the bike and baking it in an oven for 20 minutes or so ( better Google that to get better info than I can give you.) If you have an oven to do this, then just use it for the final PC job. Secondly, I have 3 bikes and many more in my past and would never consider PCing any engine parts. Certainly not myself. Finally, I would be very suspect of an engine case being badly contaminated with oil and road crap so cleaning it will also be a big challenge. It has to be spotless.
@@sikandar0x9 this would likely be effective for small parts only.
I do a pretty fair amount of powder coating in my back yard shop, and if the part(s) are small enough, I use a toaster oven. If the parts are larger, then I use an old discarded kitchen oven for them. Never tried a heat gun because the toaster oven is so easy to use for the smaller parts. Thumbs Up!
Put that in some kind of metal box so that it retains some of the heat. A heat gun is just like an oven with a fan. You could get a few heat guns and make a large metal box to cure larger parts. It would be interesting to see if pre heating gives a better outcome.
I was thinking the same. Maybe hang it somehow inside a metal or ceramic pot laid on its side.
at that point you might as well use a toaster oven.
@@dhy5342 A terracotta flower pot could be used to hang the part and blow air in through the top. At that point you might as well use the toaster.
I'm going to try this idea on my roll cage
I've done this on a larger scale with quarts infared heaters and it worked but a little too well ahah, not only did it cure my part but it melted the wires for the heaters 😂
4:23 When u turned the powder coated plate, it still went back to the same position
saw that too
😂😂😂😂😂
Seen that also! 😜
😂🤣👌
Yep
An induction heater with some simple current control would be interesting to experiment with for small components.
yes. great comment
ZVS circuit is good
using the heat gun, I do powder coating plastic too you need to heat the plastic first and applied the paint
What kinds of plastic? How do you keep from melting it?
i powder coat and yes you can you have to preheat the part with the gun first then powder coat the part then cure on high setting the preheat will make the powder coat stick so you can use the high heat setting
This was a cool idea. I did find it funny that when you turned the piece around to cure the other side, you ended up blowing heat on the same side. LOL! It was the effort/thought that counted.
Fun experiment and great channel, we use you guys for all our replacement parts for our sandblaster and love the service. With that said, I strongly recommend you follow the powder manufacturers tech sheet and cure for that time once the part reaches it. This was basically melting plastic, the chemical reaction occurs at the proper temp for the proper amount of time- Which gets you the durability and corrosion protection. If your looking for long term durability you need to follow tech sheet. We cover lots of this information on our channel, and love to help new coaters!
I've been told be a few guys this is how they cure powder on center caps for wheels so I've been curious to test my own self, I just haven't had any centercaps or time to check into it. Cool video
Use a propane heater like Mr Heater makes they have 1-3 burner models and the smaller bottle version.. No wind just infrared heat..
Bend test would or a MEK rub test would help you determine if the part is fully cured
Great job and a good Video. I had purchased a new powder coating 7 months ago, but had no oven. I also thought about using my heat gun or a couple of infrared bulbs like I use to do for drying paint work on cars. Infrared bulbs pull a lot of current, but get really hot hot to the point they can bubble your paint if to close. So you may want to do a video of one on a manifold or other engine part. I am thinking of trying it on a refresh of my 76 Corvette manifold. Thanks again. Great video. Thumbs up
Just like Dave M. below here. I have powder coated with a torch and a heat gun. They both work. We're not splitting the atom here. Its pretty see spot run. First, I preheat the part slightly. Then if I dont want to spray it on I use a small teaspoon that snaps closed. Then I just sprinkle it on as needed. Cure with a heat gun. Good Job!
So i had a aluminum console for a boat built and the guy put the cup holder on the wrong side that was in the way of the dang throttle box so I cut the cup holder off with a Dremel and now have 2 small areas thst sit on top of a pipe i used a Dremel tool to smooth over with sanding wheels . I'm going to try your method . Maybe layer it do like 2 thicker layers I was wondering since my whole setup is already powdered how I'd go about touching that area up . Guess I could use my heat gun heat up the area then figure out a way to get some powder on it and take my time so I don't blow it off the part
@@nathanw5747 You can try heating the part, put some powder on a spoon, then holding the spoon close to the heated spot, use a straw to carefully blow some powder on to it. It's gonna be tricky but should work. Lmk I can help anywhere.-Brad
@Brad Hanson yeah going to try that along with I have the high temperature powder coat tape
Likey tape off the existing area so I don't get powder everywhere
I do this to get the powder to stick to the part then i hit it with a propane torch or let it sit infront of a propane heater works fine for me...ive dropped part that ive powder coated using this method and it didnt scratch or chip so im assuming it cured all the way
This is quite surprising lmao these videos literally answer the questions ive been wondering😂😂😂
As regards to using a heat gun, when I get a new powder paint I will put a small sprinkle of it onto an aluminum pie tin and heat it up with my heat gun. It gives me a good idea of what the color will look like rather than wasting it on a project if I don't like the paint color. Start Heat at long distance away and then within 30 seconds move it closer and closer to the powder paint and it will start to gloss.
Nice -- how about the heat gun feeding into a small insulated box. I remember doing a solar over back in the day and it does not take much to heat up a small insulated box to a nice temperature. Lightbulb - EasyBake oven baby!
Cheers
Cheers
it heated up the metal that it does not require blowing it off from the other side. some even uses torch to do it. nice find. thanks man.
I’ve been powder coating for years i build jet skis for a living and it always took so long to get parts back from powder foster and with jetskis parts aren’t very big started with an old crappy oven then i stepped up to an electric smoker (works great installed a fan on inside to circulate air), i still use it for small parts and to a small but decent size diy oven bought plans off internet, I’ve used a heat gun before and gotten mixed results, the parts that i preheated before hand and that were sold colors like black, red, white came out good, prismatic colors it’s a struggle to heat evenly and u need to heat those parts evenly to come out but they cured just didn’t look the best but plain solid colors u can do it with heat gun with pretty good success and even better pre heating
Beautiful and easy on smaller part right
O thought about this method months ago for spot repaira but I wasn't able yet to try it out.
I have a question, can you touch up powder with this method or using a heat gun? Like a scratch, could I prep the small area and powder it and bake it. Will it look the same with the rest of the powdered product
I've seen some plastic parts being powder coat using the heat gun.
Was that just me but did the part not turn to the original face to the heat gun when he flipped the wire?
What if you keep electrical charge to the part to maybe hold the powder on better then blow?
Makes me wonder if you used the box you made in the previous video all closed off with a hole for the heat gun. Would it reach the temp and cure it.
how to lay the powder without the professional expensive gun?
Interesting idea. Get powder fixed with heat gun then you could pop in a toaster oven for more curing. There’s been times I’ve wanted to coat something small but didn’t want to fire up oven.
I will try with the barbeque grill i have some aluminum tubing wich is part of my drill extentions i have 3 length sizes i will try with the motorized spinner i use for the whole chiken and let see what happen do i need 400° or higher ?
Perhaps a cross hatch test to ASTM might give definitive proof of effectiveness?
I like your videos, you present your information well. I see you have a really high ceiling, you could build an area with a second floor to expand your workspace a little and store the rarely used tools up there, or suspend things from the ceiling with a block and tackle and lower them when you need them to maximize your space.
You should have used the insulated box with the heat gun.
I think my infra Red Lamp would work perfectly. you need I think 400 degrees
Use a ball hammer 🔨 and test for impact . If it cracks its not fully baked . I know i work in powder coating company.
1:03. I have the same Porter Cable heater
Works great for touch up. Preheat surface then hit the small area with powder lightly and cure with a heat gun.
You have done science! Woohoo! Thanks for sharing this result with us. :)
May i know...the part must be heat or not before make a powder coated
Great vid im just starting to use powder coating with the electrostaticmagic gun and i was wondering if you could do that. Thank you
will it work on motorcycle engine Case???
How about a bicycle frame?
OK ! Do you think parts could be preheated with a torch and then apply the powder!
You mean like this?
th-cam.com/video/favaMjLOKI0/w-d-xo.html
Hi, congrats for both videos. You communicate very well. I did the same as you did in this video a few days ago. and it worked out, I guess, also. I'm not sure how it would do for a big part, but it sounds ok to me for small part. Although, how would I know that the part it's not fully cured if not by through visual inspection?
A Q-tip and a little MEC on the swab and scrub the part. If you get red on the swab, the powder is not completely cured
@@leonardwilson980 sorry but what is MEC?
I'm guessing he means MEK. Methyl Ethyl Ketone. It's a solvent.
@@rockmunkey1981 That is correct.
Do you ever get drying cracks thanks let me know
Only cost a bunch in electricity what's that heat gun like 4000w? How long was heat gun on for consistently? should make that a torture test lol.
I'd like to see you test this with a propane heating torch. I've seen a video of a guy using one on chrome powder coat. He said it worked great but I have my doubts.
There is no reason to doubt that. Propane burns at 3600 degrees Fahrenheit. 9 times the required 400 degrees Fahrenheit. You have to worry about burning the powder with that. Not that it isn’t fully cured. However if you are burning the powder it would turn black and it would smoke and smell terrible so you would know. Just hold it the appropriate distance for correct amount of time. Anyway just find a infrared heater on Amazon. Works on any size part and cheap.
Great to know! Should be helpful for repairing parts.
Nice video. I wonder if my mr heater would be enough heat
Question do we need to bake right on after we sprayed? I plan repaint my bike?
So if a car rim cures in 15 minutes in an oven at 415 degrees will it be safe to use the heating gun for 30 to 45 minutes at 340 degrees to cure.....
No way man
So but the wheel in the oven at 400 degrees for 15 minutes.....
When you flipped it around it rotated itself and wound up blowing on the same side.
I'm surprised you did not use the wire wheel test as you did with the first video. Nice videos however.
Nevertheless learning about powder coating yet if it does not fully cure what happens like on car wheels or rims.
LOL. You'd never project enough heat onto something the size of a wheel to even melt the powder.
What's the best budget system for some one at home doing atv parts
Harbor frieght carries a powder coat system
Stabilize that flat surface in a horizontal plane and point the gun downward onto the surface.
This also allows for "extra" powder to be added.
And for a real treat - go to watch a cast iron claw foot bathtub being glassed
Several person crew
The wranglers wrestle the orientation of the surface
One person heats it with a "zippo" (think flame thrower from World War II)
And if course it is suspended from a fork lift or an A-frame
And the specialist is the one that sprinkles the powder
I have watched this in person while waiting to unload a flatbed trailer.
Also watched a cast iron sink being re-glassed in St. Louis
Learned how so many folks did their jobs in 20 years of OTR 😅
Keep in mind the size of the piece. If the part was really big, it would require something more than a heat gun due to the amount of time it would take to heat that part.
Why not use a oven ?
That's all I use old kitchen oven for my bike parts. & for frame use a clothing recycling bin gas burner sticking through the bottom with metal plate cover over the flame. barbeque temp gauge & a electric fan from a oven at the top. it only takes 15 minute's anyway 20 minutes depends what powder your useing can use them metal fileing draws yano like school's uster have
I came up with idea of using heat gun to repair imperfections on powder coated components (only a small ones) so my firm don’t have to spend extra time/money on fixing it. Powder coat gets cured in 180 degrees of celcius or 356 fahrenheit over 10 minutes
We started with propane heat lamps before we even build our first oven.
Did it work alright I thought about using a dual heat lamp powered by propane on stuff I can’t fit in the oven
@@karsonjones2878 we primarily used it on linear pieces only like a/c registers as the powder cured we would move the lamps down the pole but if you're already using an oven it's more like going backward in sophistication.
@@karsonjones2878 well it did but it was a very timely process for me to adjust the lamps all the time, kind of stressful too
i guess is a trick thing: they say "cured" i guess is more like melting a plastic over a piece of metal. probably there are different coats.. with different processes.. but sometimes this sentence will be valid. you melt it and thats all
Try coating one side, then heatiing the Exposed metal side. Now coat the other side and heat from the cured side.
You are very useful man!
this is the solution for sudden work in the field
Use a torch
Melting powder is very different from a properly cured powder coat. I would suggest learning about the polymer for a start. Powder coating is cured by maintaining the proper time and temperature of the substrate, typically 400° f for 10 minutes.
im happy with youre experemeny
Nice!
looks can be deceiving
Does anyone have experience curing powder coating for a handrail that is installed...if building a "tent" around the railing and used a heat gun to cure it in place would work? The other idea would be to buy 2 IR curing lamps and place each one on opposite sides of the railing and move it along as the rail cures. Any thoughts are appreciated
Нет, так нельзя делать с порошковой краской, красить только жидкой.
Resting a heat gun on cardboard unattended. Ok!
There's always one of these guys on every video lol
Unattended, what did he leave the room, go and get a coffee or something?
I powder coat at 250 20 mins
Thanks for doing this so I didnt have too..!
LOL. You're very welcome. Please consider subscribing sir.
Put it in a containment like a 5-gallon metal Barrel
wow 👍
Interesting.... I might have to try this on a harley engine instead of painting it
Try using high temperature grill & engine paints instead. Running the motors actually cure the paint.
I wouldn't paint the heat exchanger (fins) unless the paint is highly thermally conductive.
you did the same side twice lol
Shoot the powder while the part is hot
Budgie balls
using 10 times more electricety than an oven
Try using heat gun while the static current is on the part? 👍