Because of you and your two part video on narrowing an 8.8 , I had the knowledge to do the job correctly . It turned out perfect and I saved a lot of $ . Thanks for sharing .
@@janeblogs324 Everything I have read says that if you us ER70S-2(Or a few other types) you shouldn't need to post heat treat. I tried reading quite a bit on it, would you happen to have any info on this as well? I always like to learn new things.
Even when welding Dom tube, if you fatigue test it the break will be 1x diameter distance from the weld itself. Right on the haz line. No matter your rod, the max temp you went to is the critical factor. You can look up fatigue machines, very easy to build. I don't think there's another way to truly know, no links here (smart TV)
Justin, isn’t totally bad news. If you must to remake all the front suspension from scratch, is a great opportunity to re measure the caster angles, and the ackermann geometry, and so.. I’m not and expert, but I can help you with some calculation if you want. Have a good one!
i love these kind of builds. im build a 1990 mazda b series 4x4 pickup right now. its using a 1992 toyota pickup frame, a 1984 toyota solid axle, and a 1991 volkswagen diesel engine to power it all haha! nothing fits together, so im machining and fabricating my own parts. i built my own bellhousing adapter, designed and modified the mazda flywheel to use on the volkswagen crankshaft haha! its been a massive project, but im really enjoying it so far! keep running into weird issues, but its part of the game!
I don't understand the thumbs down, not that they really mean anything, but what don't you people like? Just a note, thumbs down still causes the TH-cam computations to rank this video higher, any user interaction, be it thumbs up, down, or comments will cause the video to have a better user interaction rating and get higher in the suggested lists. But I still don't understand what is objectionable that needs a thumbs down. I (for one of many) am loving this series!!!
I think people thumbs down for hundreds of reasons, maybe they just want to see the fabrication and don't like his style of commentary, can't please all the people all the time.
It's coming together nicely man! Love it! If I make it down to Vegas sometime I'll have to come take a class from you!! Thanks for not making youtube completely boring.
As much as that stinks that you have to rebuild the whole front end, I am really excited to see how you do it. These past few videos have been tremendously helpful and I can’t wait to see what you do next and continue to learn
Well Justin, you taught me tube bending and pie cuts. Those skills let me swap a 'Buick' 225 V6 into a 1948 Willys CJ2L (not A) Jeep in place of the factory L134 flat head four-banger. It's a common swap, but what I learned from you was how to do it without making it permanent - I could swap back to the Go-Devil motor at any time because I was able to make it a completely bolt-in job. What specifically made it possible was fabricating a pair of double-Y headers. Typically with this swap, you have to remove the factory motor mounts so yo have clearance to run the drivers side exhaust manifold reversed - dumping out the front, so you can run a full passenger side exhaust without crazy fabrication. So thanks! just let me know where to drop a pic of the parts!
Not an air bag guy more along the lines of hot rods but why not z the frame or do a body drop? I have leaned a lot of very useful things from your videos. I like your attitude.
Pretty much all trucks need a Z to get it low (exceptions are s10s, some rangers and 90s and newer silveradors). Japanese trucks are even worse because they have radius arms instead of traditional A arms.
being a fab shop, old school ( 80s ) we would cut the lower control arm, weld in flat stock, couple gussets, reset the alignment with full suspension travel and geometry
Just do what the mustang 2 guys and first gen Tacoma guys do. Do a radius arm delete and convert the lower into a traditional A arm. A bushing, roughly a foot and half of 1.5 inch bent tube and some new bushing brackets in line with the stock pivot bolt. For the upper, you can do what the low rider guys do and cut then re-angle the upper ball joint then box it in for strength. Or use it as a template for a tubular arm. Then to get it lower, figure out how much lower the front needs to be by measuring the engine x-member plus about a half inch and do a frame Z. This all would be much more labor intensive than just gutting the front end and slapping on a mustang 2 front end. A few trucks out there aren't able to be air bagged very easily and a mighty max is one of them.
I would "LOVE to have a Welding/Fabrication Class" like yours in the Bremerton, Washington area! Community College only teaches "SO MUCH" for practicality, but not much for Fabrication...😿 🇺🇸🎆HAPPY 4th of JULY!🎆🇺🇸 Take care, 🤓 -Thomas Port Orchard, WA (Just West of Seattle, Washington)
Keep in mind remaking the mounts for the front suspension will help with bump steer. That extreme angle they have right now will throw you all over the road if any bumps or dips come your way
@@jazamora7521 no definitely not but even at half travel the control arms are still over extended. At least now ride height can have the arms parallel to the ground.
You are a talker well so am I , I love talking about and Building cars , bikes , trailers and metal shaping machines , I have a small shop and just love it . I was thinking can I borrow you mate there I need some help , I'm just around the corner I'm in Queensland Australia ask him if he wants to come ? All so I love your tec tips
Just a thought here, can't you just cut the control arm mounts off and move their attachment point to get the proper KPI/SAI? Raise the lower mounting point an inch and raise the upper mounting point an inch and a half-two inches for your desired effect. Maybe you'll just have to make your lower control arm so your bag mounts will be how you want them
Sadly, most Japanese trucks and c10s always need a Z to get the front end down. I think s10s, rangers and silverados are some of the only trucks out there that don't need major surgery.
I bought the 2 1/2" years back and in the rear I did a under the axle perch mounts to drop it 3'' best thing I did drove great and stopped mint since the front spindles had groves and calipers would stick Sketchy stopping boy LOL
Awesome video as always. In regards to the rear proportioning valve, can you explain your thought process in keeping it? Lowering the truck doesn't equate to the truck being under a load, but will still result in the rear bias when unloaded. Or did you do something to mitigate this?
@@TheFabricatorSeries The brake proportioning valve can be anywhere on the lines going to the rear, some folks even mount the adjustable type in the cabin so the front to rear bias can be adjusted on the fly.
To make the proportional valve active, you could link it to the airbag pressure. The higher the pressure, the more weight you have in the back, therefore the more brake force that you can bias toward the back. Not sure what you would use, but I’m sure there is a spring return pressure sensitive switch/ram etc that would be suitable, and you just need to hook it into the rear bag circuit.
I put 2" drop spindles on my 2005 chevy tahoe...worst suspension mod I did to that vehicle. Couldn't get the camber into alignment...only got it close with upper control arm offset bushings. I am going to be putting stock spindles back on, removing the torsion bars, and converting to front coil overs.
@@sean5comet yeah, it shouldn't do anything to your geometry. All the do is move your spindle location up. Camber wouldn't move unless you messed with your control arms.
Why our the proportioning valve in the rear, if your not going to hook it up? I mounted the one from my rabbit truck in the cab on the rear firewall. I use allthread to make it more adjustable. Worked out great.
Figuring out what you are going to do half way into a build is a foundational issue not an interprocess issue. It does however make for a more common real world scenario where initial planning did not account for moderate interference.
What if you fab the mount for the upper arm a bit higher? Should give you the bit of travel needed and less stress on the ball joint as well. I think anyways lol
JUSTIN, I have a question that I am hoping you can help me with.... A fella pulled out in front of me in my 84' K-10, Hit so hard that it bent the right front frame horn, leaf Spring Shackle, and the cross-member.... I have a Everlast MTS lightning 275.... Is there anyway I can send you pics to get your opinion on repairing it?? I noticed you said you use duct bills.... I own an HVAC Co. here in East Tennessee(Knoxville area) and if you need anything related to my line of work, I got you brother.... You have helped me in more ways than I can count, You taught me how to weld, without even knowing it.... LOL ....
NiCopp tubing for new lines...thank me later. So much easier and most of the bennies of stainless (not all). What is the Prop valve you are using? Thought I heard you say it's a weight-sensing valve in an earlier video? Deleting the ABS on my Danger Ranger Overland build (old tech and terrible function)...that idea sounds intriguing to me as my load will vary a lot.
Hey, can you move the lower control arm mount to the top of the frame and fab new upper mounts? You'd probably also need modified struts, but is this possible? I'm also wondering if I can use a Watts link setup on my 48 Willys jeep for off-roading instead of a panhard rod. It's an overlanding build, not a rock crawler, using one in the rear _shouldn't_ be an issue if I can mount it right. One in the front would be far more difficult, so a panhard rod might be the best bet there.
MrLes Berg you can not use watts links in the front LOL. Watts links in the rear of offroad rigs is nothing new tho, just takes a lot of engineering and figuring out where to put everything so that nothing interferes with travel
When I started watching these I was really interested but as the build progressed I became rather disappointed in how the build as going... lets see what the end product looks like (if it gets finished?)
i can't be the only one to notice that you called the sway bar, a strut rod. that truck looks like a dual A arm suspension truck. they don't have strut rods.
The welding videos will still be produced by me when I have time. But as mentioned, I own a fabrication based company and I used to build race cars for a living. So thats what most of my build content is based around.
@@TheFabricatorSeries I obviously appreciate that was just mentioning it , never been a car nut was 44 when i passed my car test ....now if you did a bike .... :-)
My 9 year old and I lay in bed in the mornings and watch your channel. He loves to watch you weld, then try it out on my cheap flux core welder.
Because of you and your two part video on narrowing an 8.8 , I had the knowledge to do the job correctly . It turned out perfect and I saved a lot of $ . Thanks for sharing .
Just welded up some 4130 trailing arms for my DSM.
Never would have had the confidence without your videos. Thanks!!
Now you gotta post heat treat them
@@janeblogs324 Everything I have read says that if you us ER70S-2(Or a few other types) you shouldn't need to post heat treat. I tried reading quite a bit on it, would you happen to have any info on this as well? I always like to learn new things.
@@smevox7490 At the very least get a certified welder to check the welds. Heating 4130 weldments to dull red with propane was a common technique .
Even when welding Dom tube, if you fatigue test it the break will be 1x diameter distance from the weld itself. Right on the haz line.
No matter your rod, the max temp you went to is the critical factor. You can look up fatigue machines, very easy to build.
I don't think there's another way to truly know, no links here (smart TV)
Justin, isn’t totally bad news.
If you must to remake all the front suspension from scratch, is a great opportunity to re measure the caster angles, and the ackermann geometry, and so..
I’m not and expert, but I can help you with some calculation if you want.
Have a good one!
Murphy gets you every time....and he'll be lurking there until the project is licensed and on the road. Been there... done that.
Hahahaha o nooooo
i love these kind of builds. im build a 1990 mazda b series 4x4 pickup right now. its using a 1992 toyota pickup frame, a 1984 toyota solid axle, and a 1991 volkswagen diesel engine to power it all haha! nothing fits together, so im machining and fabricating my own parts. i built my own bellhousing adapter, designed and modified the mazda flywheel to use on the volkswagen crankshaft haha! its been a massive project, but im really enjoying it so far! keep running into weird issues, but its part of the game!
I don't understand the thumbs down, not that they really mean anything, but what don't you people like? Just a note, thumbs down still causes the TH-cam computations to rank this video higher, any user interaction, be it thumbs up, down, or comments will cause the video to have a better user interaction rating and get higher in the suggested lists. But I still don't understand what is objectionable that needs a thumbs down.
I (for one of many) am loving this series!!!
I think people thumbs down for hundreds of reasons, maybe they just want to see the fabrication and don't like his style of commentary, can't please all the people all the time.
It's coming together nicely man! Love it! If I make it down to Vegas sometime I'll have to come take a class from you!! Thanks for not making youtube completely boring.
As much as that stinks that you have to rebuild the whole front end, I am really excited to see how you do it. These past few videos have been tremendously helpful and I can’t wait to see what you do next and continue to learn
Your use of tool and the things u build I am getting more and more .... wanting to watch the next video
I’m glad you make safety a priority. Do the job right the first time. For whatever time it would take to do the job
Well Justin, you taught me tube bending and pie cuts. Those skills let me swap a 'Buick' 225 V6 into a 1948 Willys CJ2L (not A) Jeep in place of the factory L134 flat head four-banger. It's a common swap, but what I learned from you was how to do it without making it permanent - I could swap back to the Go-Devil motor at any time because I was able to make it a completely bolt-in job.
What specifically made it possible was fabricating a pair of double-Y headers. Typically with this swap, you have to remove the factory motor mounts so yo have clearance to run the drivers side exhaust manifold reversed - dumping out the front, so you can run a full passenger side exhaust without crazy fabrication.
So thanks! just let me know where to drop a pic of the parts!
Post pic here !
Not an air bag guy more along the lines of hot rods but why not z the frame or do a body drop? I have leaned a lot of very useful things from your videos. I like your attitude.
Pretty much all trucks need a Z to get it low (exceptions are s10s, some rangers and 90s and newer silveradors). Japanese trucks are even worse because they have radius arms instead of traditional A arms.
being a fab shop, old school ( 80s ) we would cut the lower control arm, weld in flat stock, couple gussets, reset the alignment with full suspension travel and geometry
I ended up buying an AHP alpha TIG 201 after your unboxing. It's been working great and I am nearly through my first bottle of Argon with it :).
Lowering is such an alien concept for us 4x4 peeps 😂
Right. I was thinking he was getting a drop transfer case for a mud truck
Great timing once again!
Just do what the mustang 2 guys and first gen Tacoma guys do. Do a radius arm delete and convert the lower into a traditional A arm. A bushing, roughly a foot and half of 1.5 inch bent tube and some new bushing brackets in line with the stock pivot bolt.
For the upper, you can do what the low rider guys do and cut then re-angle the upper ball joint then box it in for strength. Or use it as a template for a tubular arm.
Then to get it lower, figure out how much lower the front needs to be by measuring the engine x-member plus about a half inch and do a frame Z.
This all would be much more labor intensive than just gutting the front end and slapping on a mustang 2 front end.
A few trucks out there aren't able to be air bagged very easily and a mighty max is one of them.
Jeez I wish I was more knowledgeable in this regard
I would "LOVE to have a Welding/Fabrication Class" like yours in the Bremerton, Washington area!
Community College only teaches "SO MUCH" for practicality, but not much for Fabrication...😿
🇺🇸🎆HAPPY 4th of JULY!🎆🇺🇸
Take care,
🤓 -Thomas
Port Orchard, WA
(Just West of Seattle, Washington)
Keep in mind remaking the mounts for the front suspension will help with bump steer. That extreme angle they have right now will throw you all over the road if any bumps or dips come your way
I really doubt he'll be driving that low to the ground, but we'll find out eventually😅
@@jazamora7521 no definitely not but even at half travel the control arms are still over extended. At least now ride height can have the arms parallel to the ground.
You are a talker well so am I , I love talking about and Building cars , bikes , trailers and metal shaping machines , I have a small shop and just love it . I was thinking can I borrow you mate there I need some help , I'm just around the corner I'm in Queensland Australia ask him if he wants to come ? All so I love your tec tips
Thanks for all the building tips and tricks that help me to scratch out my living!
😉 😊 love your work man!
What do u need a e brake cable when u can park it on the ground?
That's what I thought too 🤣
Your perserverance will be rewarded mate👍
Just a thought here, can't you just cut the control arm mounts off and move their attachment point to get the proper KPI/SAI? Raise the lower mounting point an inch and raise the upper mounting point an inch and a half-two inches for your desired effect. Maybe you'll just have to make your lower control arm so your bag mounts will be how you want them
What about “Z” ing the front frame? Has to be done to fully layout a Tacoma.
Could make a drop member like has become popular with C10s.
Sadly, most Japanese trucks and c10s always need a Z to get the front end down. I think s10s, rangers and silverados are some of the only trucks out there that don't need major surgery.
I bought the 2 1/2" years back and in the rear I did a under the axle perch mounts to drop it 3'' best thing I did drove great and stopped mint since the front spindles had groves and calipers would stick Sketchy stopping boy LOL
Awesome video as always.
In regards to the rear proportioning valve, can you explain your thought process in keeping it? Lowering the truck doesn't equate to the truck being under a load, but will still result in the rear bias when unloaded. Or did you do something to mitigate this?
I'm leaving it hooked up in the system but not functioning as a load sensing type. It will just be fixed.
@@TheFabricatorSeries The brake proportioning valve can be anywhere on the lines going to the rear, some folks even mount the adjustable type in the cabin so the front to rear bias can be adjusted on the fly.
To make the proportional valve active, you could link it to the airbag pressure. The higher the pressure, the more weight you have in the back, therefore the more brake force that you can bias toward the back. Not sure what you would use, but I’m sure there is a spring return pressure sensitive switch/ram etc that would be suitable, and you just need to hook it into the rear bag circuit.
I put 2" drop spindles on my 2005 chevy tahoe...worst suspension mod I did to that vehicle. Couldn't get the camber into alignment...only got it close with upper control arm offset bushings. I am going to be putting stock spindles back on, removing the torsion bars, and converting to front coil overs.
Did you buy name brand spindles like belltech? because nothing should change at all other than your spindle location.
@@zososldier MaxTrac 2" drop spindles with 3" rear drop springs
@@sean5comet yeah, it shouldn't do anything to your geometry. All the do is move your spindle location up. Camber wouldn't move unless you messed with your control arms.
been watching you for some time
I have a question
It's not about fabrication
It's your voice.
Do you sing?
Hymns?
Why our the proportioning valve in the rear, if your not going to hook it up? I mounted the one from my rabbit truck in the cab on the rear firewall. I use allthread to make it more adjustable. Worked out great.
using that prybar to open a box. "this may be overkill"
"overkill is underrated"
Good job guys
Figuring out what you are going to do half way into a build is a foundational issue not an interprocess issue. It does however make for a more common real world scenario where initial planning did not account for moderate interference.
Love your work!
Great welding and metal works tips. go elsewhere for suspension, chassis, engineering aspects, just saying.
Are you swapping to bolt in high misalignment uniballs? They could take the angle and not snap. Since you are already fabricating all new anyway.
Perfect timing. Happy 4th!!!!
What if you fab the mount for the upper arm a bit higher? Should give you the bit of travel needed and less stress on the ball joint as well. I think anyways lol
JUSTIN, I have a question that I am hoping you can help me with.... A fella pulled out in front of me in my 84' K-10, Hit so hard that it bent the right front frame horn, leaf Spring Shackle, and the cross-member.... I have a Everlast MTS lightning 275.... Is there anyway I can send you pics to get your opinion on repairing it?? I noticed you said you use duct bills.... I own an HVAC Co. here in East Tennessee(Knoxville area) and if you need anything related to my line of work, I got you brother.... You have helped me in more ways than I can count, You taught me how to weld, without even knowing it.... LOL ....
It always takes longer and cost more than you thought on customer jobs we learn to factor in the what iffs
NiCopp tubing for new lines...thank me later. So much easier and most of the bennies of stainless (not all).
What is the Prop valve you are using? Thought I heard you say it's a weight-sensing valve in an earlier video? Deleting the ABS on my Danger Ranger Overland build (old tech and terrible function)...that idea sounds intriguing to me as my load will vary a lot.
That tube is so much easier to shape, and doesn't work harden like regular lines.
Great job Justin! Like always loving the videos! Any chance I could commission you to make some tubular control arms for my 00 S10?
Justin Superstar,,, yaayyy ;-)
Hey, can you move the lower control arm mount to the top of the frame and fab new upper mounts? You'd probably also need modified struts, but is this possible?
I'm also wondering if I can use a Watts link setup on my 48 Willys jeep for off-roading instead of a panhard rod. It's an overlanding build, not a rock crawler, using one in the rear _shouldn't_ be an issue if I can mount it right. One in the front would be far more difficult, so a panhard rod might be the best bet there.
MrLes Berg you can not use watts links in the front LOL. Watts links in the rear of offroad rigs is nothing new tho, just takes a lot of engineering and figuring out where to put everything so that nothing interferes with travel
Remember Nanny the Goat says "Safety Second" always.
Binding control arm ball joints. Looks like your tire/wheel diameter is too big for the suspension layout.
When I started watching these I was really interested but as the build progressed I became rather disappointed in how the build as going... lets see what the end product looks like (if it gets finished?)
What’s going on with the other build?
i can't be the only one to notice that you called the sway bar, a strut rod. that truck looks like a dual A arm suspension truck. they don't have strut rods.
Time is a commidity, as they say.
Just put a taller lower bump stop there.
Is that a Mazda b series?
Mitisubishi mighty max
Again, is the Body a Mitsubishi or Dodge?
I know that they are IDENTICAL, but what Badging is on this?...🤔
🎆🇺🇸HAPPY 4th of JULY!🇺🇸🎆
Mitsubushi
Just put your stock spindles back on upside down, problem solved!! Or just fabricate new spindles? Again, problem solved!! Did someone say uniballs?
i posted this comment at 4:20 am
Just mentioning , i came here for welding i have no interest in cars (gasp shock horror ! ) i miss the welding video,s !
I'm with you on the car stuff. But he does run a fab shop not a welding shop, so expect there to be focus on fabrication not welding directly.
The welding videos will still be produced by me when I have time. But as mentioned, I own a fabrication based company and I used to build race cars for a living. So thats what most of my build content is based around.
@@TheFabricatorSeries I obviously appreciate that was just mentioning it , never been a car nut was 44 when i passed my car test ....now if you did a bike .... :-)