HEADS UP! We know about the fake YT accounts saying you won. They are FAKE accounts. You will NEVER win anything from a comment. We will NEVER ask you for personal info, money, or additional details. The fake accounts do not have the official YT check mark next to them. They are just trying to get money from you. Click on their account and report it. -Justin
Additionally, we will never ask you to click a link, call a number, download an app, buy gift cards, trade them for bitcoin, fear that we are some random government agency with Indian or Nigerian accents, or ANYTHING related. Scammers are desperate, lonely, useless 3rd worlders searching for gullible people. Give them the biggest middle finger from America that you got!
I must say, I'm surprised you haven't invested some of those tube money, in one of those handheld "laser metal analyser" (don't know if they are still laser or developed). For those sometimes rare alloy mixtures in specialist products, like the veteran parts you handled here, that tool is quiet valuable 😉
Hey Justin, I just want to say you don't really owe us followers for sticking around. The amount of knowledge you contribute in the public domain is worth it's weight in gold. Thanks for being so generous with your time. I wish you surpass your goals.
Hi Mr. Justin, thank you for the video. I play with airplanes and the original exhaust was steel in the 1930/1940 but as soon as they went to stainless steel, they started using a 321 stainless which intern uses a 347 filler. The 321 is cladded with titanium to help with the heat cycling, but I agree with you once the part is 70 years old. It has earned retirement.
the angled grinder is only ment for 2 inch attachments, tried 3 inch myself and it doesnt work, atleast not with wire brushes, a lighter sander might work, but stick with 2 inch stuff and it will work nice. ( had mine for over 4 years now.)
Yeah I've gotten away with 3" paint stripper discs since they're lighter weight and less drag but 3" wire wheels have too much drag. Mine has been abused for 3 years and still works great
Hi Justin， just wanna show my respect，you are a great person to show us free welding lessons. I really like your expertise and your spirit. I cant imagin how hard it is to work in such a hot place. Take care of your throat!🥤
I do a lot of repairs on similar exhaust pipes for aircraft and I use the nonwoven rust/paint removal roloc wheels in two inch. They work great to get to that shiny weldable goodness without removing any material
Yep, great stuff from 3M. I use them since I got to repair / weld some exause pipes on my and some friends motobikes. And Justin, thx for sharing your knowledge with us. I mostly taught myself TIG welding, read a lot and ultimately learned a lot from people like you. For all other types of welding I had lessons in my training as a car mechanic here in Germany. But that was more than 30 years ago.😂
I used to subscribe to a LOT of welding and fabrication channels, now I follow maybe four or five and you are by far the best one. You have the natural ability to be able to make learning as interesting as it is educational. You're a great instructor / teacher, and a fantastic welder/fabricator. Thanks
As already stated, your skillz are top shelf! I was watching that forward back and thinking wow, then you commented on it to confirm what I was seeing. I doubt I'll ever attend a class or do welding for money but I definitely want to thank you for posting up these type vids for us hacks out here melting metal and trying to claim it as welding. Keep up the great work!
That weird smell may actually be lead contamination as aircraft can run "Avgas" which still contains lead to up the octane. I have welded an exhaust off a plane that has run Avgas before and it is a very distinct smell along with the white fume that looks almost like an incense burner.
I was actually just making a comment to mention that, glad I looked first. :D Yeah, and I wonder what the residue on the inside of the melted metal. What does stainless become when glazed with tetra-ethyl lead and soot on the inside?
I have over 20 years of dealing with jobs like this and worse taken by my employer. Great job showing true hard work with experience and the difficulties that come with these types of jobs. Making sure the customer knows the very high possibility of a failed outcome is very important. Great video dude! Don't take the bad ones😂
Justin I took your stainless and aluminum TIG courses four years ago and it was without question the best money I’ve ever spent. The various platforms you’ve created to help others learn are incredible. What ever happened to the car you were building?
I was a welder in another life, but finished my career as a welding inspector in the petro-chemical industry. We often have to weld new material to existing material that has been contaminated by process fluids. While meticulous cleaning of the old material is helpful, there are often contaminants within the grain structure. A technique referred to as "buttering" is a useful in welding a difficult joint that has the puddle popping up with contaminants. This includes laying down a sacrificial pass or two of weld metal that is then ground out before attempting to weld out the joint. The oxide scavengers in the welding consumable will often eliminate enough of the contamination to successfully complete (pass x-ray inspection) the joint. Don't know if that would have been any help with this job.
I have done many of those same repairs, I make my customers aware of all the things you mentioned and leave it up to them and nine times out of ten they will ask me to do the work. Honesty is the best policy!
Much love from So Cal, appreciate you for this walkthrough and countless others. I've been tuned in since your tube bending series and can't tell you how much i've learned from your channel alone. As for this video, thank you for sticking through the +100 degree weather, getting the raspy voice, and still being a good sport about it. Take care!
This angle die grinder is designed for high speed low force. I've had good success with 3 in Scotch-Brite Roloc. Assuming your wire will is designed for a drill, the max rating is 4500 RPMs. I noticed you had it on the the the highest setting, which I believe is over 20,000 RPMs. It's also kind of dangerous. Hate to be the safety nerd.
@@wesbri-p9e yeah, I've exploded a couple of wire wheels with my die grinder - they definitely don't like 20k rpm! Still finding bristles around the shop months later 😆
I suspect it is virtually impossible to truly clean lead off of a piece of pipe as you tried .- lead is forever. Nice to see when even a professional struggles - it gives me hope that my technique will improve.
Don't use brake cleaner because it makes phosgene gas when you weld. VERY unhealthy. There is a vid from welder that suffered liver damage this way. He may have passed already.
@@silaskuemmerle2505 In the World Rally Championship, Inconel is used in a few high heat areas on the car. On the old Subaru WRX cars, it was used in part of the exhaust as part of the anti-lag system. It wouldn't surprise me if the manifold is Inconel because of the use on an aircraft
@@Awkward_Fox well that's an aircraft part not a car part, and as an aircraft mechanic I have not encountered an inconel exhaust on piston engine aircraft.
Blessings from Kissimmee FL brother I am sorry about the fumes and the reaction on your throat I had experienced something like that years ago when melting lead I hope you feel better soon Take care bud
I'm thrilled with the announcements at the end of the video. Congrats on your success, and best of luck in the future. I was speaking with some of the guys at the annual Shelby Dodge convention this year, and not surprisingly, we all watch your videos. Keep them coming.
FYI! I have the right angle M12. It's only, ok. Does what yours does, but much less so. Point of post, I discovered the RYOBI pistol grip die grinder, and it is awesome. Lots speed, and torque. No stalls! I got mine on sale for $99 bucks with 2 batteries. I love it!!! I think it was as much as $179 bare tool. I'd say it's worth it, even at that price. I really have no brand loyalty any more. This RYOBI is actually very very nice. Comfortable in hand, and lots of power. I will buy another for sure. I haven't tried the M12 straight die grinder yet.
The glow is caused by higher content of chromium and a few other metals that are used in aviation stainless. That's quite the nasty stuff and I wouldn't go near it without a respirator. So people should really appreciate the fact that you do all this just to teach us! Love to see you work.
Sr George Utah here, My neighbor might have got your McDonalds, we were talking and here comes the delivery guy. Def didnt order it, but his name is Justin too! I made a WMO order to make up for it. Id also love to win the welders, my everlast are ok, but those would be better. ;) Your smelling avgas, and its 70 years old, its probably actually lead that has built up and then melted into everything. Lead starts offgassing toxic fumes around 800°f. Lead is clumpy and sludgy and doesnt like to flow out.
@@davemcdaniel4856 I've mentioned the same thing I do repair on a lot of aircraft exhaust for experimental airplanes no certificates needed for experimental airplanes but have to be careful about lead gas it's even in the av gas low lead still gases off have a hi Dollar respirator for it. Even had it when doing flooring for 20 yrs allot of old floors containing asbestos and formaldehyde....
35:00 I don’t know if many noticed this but the tungsten tip to work distance was incredible. The control he demonstrated after the arc did its wandering after startup was insane, unlike in a straight line keeping that tungsten soo close across the uneven radius corner takes incredible skill and concentration to not dip the tungsten. The fact that he did dip the tungsten before the shot goes to show just how difficult and uncooperative this piece was being. Porosity aside most people would struggle with the skill to even replicate the result so YES your intention to pick and choose your jobs, refuse the jobs that demonstrate potential issues got across … (at least it did for me).
Glad you're able to be back. The way you break down what you're doing in the videos is enjoyable to watch. As much welding as I do teach, I wish I had all the skills needed to come work with you. Maybe one day.
I recently started a welding/fab job with a heritage steam train company here in the UK. So I can totally relate to the frustrations of working on 70+ year old parts that have had countless heat cycles through them, most everything is also covered in grease and soot haha
@@philipmendorensis8687 There are a good amount of “fabrication” channels with more subs.(I get subs don’t equal views) Something to think about, is everyone that watches “Deadliest Catch” a crab fisherman? Does everyone that watches “Dirty Jobs” clean sludge out of sewers? Watch “B is for Build” he basically talks while an hourly employee does all the work inbetween blatant 20 minute advertisements. I don’t mean to bash that channel too much but it’s kinda a hack operation. Have you seen the latest underwater art display they are building? There is also that other channel where it’s all jump cuts with bad generic rock/metal music playing while they butcher everything they do.
@@philipmendorensis8687 Erm... This Old Tony, Welding Tips and Tricks, AvE, all over 1M subs.... Honestly Justin doesn't get enough love his content is fantastic.
This makes me feel a lot better about my welds! Im a machinist jit a welder but i do 90% of the TIG jobs at work(ive been TIG welding for years unprofessionally) but we usually get dirty, old, irreplacable parts for old equipment, and if YOU can't make every weld look like a banger, i feel good about my welds on similarly fugged parts not looking like IG welders lol. So far knock on wood nothing has come back. Thanks for the content
A few comments from people familiar with aircraft parts suggested this exhaust may have been Inconel not 304, 310, 316, or some other austenitic SS material. If you are convinced that an unknow material is stainless steel, but unsure of the grade, a good option for the consumable is ENiCrMo-3. It will work as well or better than E309 on 300 grade SS material and definitely better if it happens to be Inconel. The only cavate is that it is expensive.
When you mentioned the smell of avgas, I figured lead would be a potential hazard. Your instinct to wear a respirator was a good one. Thanks for a very informative video!
Most the moisture your seeing during pre heat on the metal is a biproduct of the torch combustion. Its condensing on the cool metal stops once it heats up.
This. It drives me nuts when people insist that they're magically drawing moisture out of the material. It is simple condensation from the biproduct of combustion of many hydrocarbons, water...
The same thing happens when hot air from an electric heat gun hits cold metal. Moisture in the hot air momentarily condenses out on the metal and then quickly evaporates as the metal heats up. Car windshields fog up through an identical mechanism.
I bought a Milwaukee rotary tool. The first one died after a couple uses. It was "repaired" once (they didn't return the collet nut) and then replaced under warranty after it failed again. On this one, any signifcant load and it quits, but will restart after a few seconds. I still rely on the corded Dremel for extended use.
Hey high speed, drink some buttermilk and honey to soothe your throat. I’ve been watching your videos for a couple or three years, and I enjoy watching your high enthusiastic and professional approach to welding and fabrication. No I’m not asking for an instructor position, I know I’m not one your looking for so I’m not trying to butter you up. I just wanted to let you know I’m impressed with your willingness to share your tips and the strive to make name for yourself with the skills you have. Keep it up, and don’t forget to take a break once in a while so you don’t burn yourself out. Best of luck Justin!!
That ring around the aircraft exhaust is for the cabin heater and the carb heater. It’s a shroud that goes around it, the nubs are to help transfer the heat to air, airflow comes from the prop airflow / movement thru the air.
Thank you for letting me watch you weld. Your talking as you weld helps a lot. If my view through my helmet was as good as your video I could be a better welder. Keep up the good work. Gene
Justin, your enthusiasm is contagious, I have never seen you this pumped up before......... congratulations on your growth and plans for the future........PB
Amazing camera work, as always! Great episode. Can't use those big attachments on the mini right angle grinder, it overloads it for me. Works great for using smaller attachments where you don't want a big angle grinder. Also works really great for cutoff wheels (it can handle larger ones of those).
So glad to see TFS back up againb and understand hat it had to take a hit for you to get weldcoach up and runnin. Honestly watching TFS is what inspired me to get into metal fabrication so I am going back to school at 46 to start over. RTeached the top of my last career and was not rewarding anymore so on to the next chapter just waiting to hear back about a fgrant to go back to school since it is something that is offered in the area I live and the tool grant will hjelp iommensly especially with purchasing an AC/DC tig machine for myself along with a plasma cutter
The stud setup is for the cabin heating, on a lot/most small airplanes they heat the cabin using exhaust heat, pulling air through a shroud around the manifold, the studs help with heat transfer.
First time watching your channel & video. I was very impressed with your determination to fix this problem & you almost overcame it. True that the metal is oxidized or has so many little pin holes in it thats what the problem surely was. Sure, sandblasting may have a been a part of it but after 28 years in this industry I would still lean back on severe oxidation & fatigue of the metal. I would've either welded it out, tiger paw or grind out any porosity, welded up those spots then "tiger paw" or flapper sanded the whole weld putting down a light stringer then examining the weld for any defects, if none, sand it down yet again, clean it well with a solvent then go for the "full monty". My second choice would be to cut it off nearest to the base metal & ship the piece off to a company that could replicate the piece, get it back into my shop & weld it back onto the original piece. Sure, its more costly but your dealing with aviation parts that help or make the engine run. Thats not the exhaust of your buddies side by side or a 4 wheeler. Good video & I know your cooking hot in Nevada at a dry heat of 115. Try doing what your doing in deep south Louisiana at 11 0 with the heat index at nearly 100%!!!! Good luck brother & keep on doing what your doing!
first and foremost, thank you for sharing your expertise with us. you are a wealth of knowledge, and i know that many people have learned so much from you. (especially how to load a trailer,....) i am excited to see more fabrication content, and the news about more forthcoming is quite welcomed!! i am equally excited to hear of the plans for a specialized technical program in the works, and hope for outstanding success with that. i also hope that you can find the right people for the work. i believe that will just catapult your endeavors to the moon and beyond. all the best and keep well.
I swear I'm never going to live out the trailer loading comments despite my success 6 times over 😅 Thank you for your comment and continued support! -Justin
hey Justin, If it was going on aircraft It's SOP to back gas otherwise you will get embrittlment (sugar baby). I wold use a 347 rod .035" or .045" on this, most AC exhaust is around .060" unless it's on a turbo which is usually a little heavier. I really enjoy your video's, Thanks!
Q douse to you sir. For what you’re doing hope you get the right people to help you going forward. Look forward to seeing what you have to offer. All the best 👍 Bob.
Challenging jobs like this make us better welders. Even if there is a 100% chance of failure. Even if you don’t get paid for this job, it’s still a great learning experience. Remember, experience is priceless.
G’day mate, another great video. With the garbage that floated up, would there be any benefit in grinding it down and putting another bead on top? Or would this be futile and just bring more rubbish to the surface? Cheers for all the insight you provide.
I think your issue is with the small 1.5ah 12V battery, for my right angle grinder I use a 6AH battery and never have the load down issue you're having. Hope that helps. So what cleaning method would have been best if not blasting, would a different media would have been better like walnut or metal oxide or chemical dipping?
I won't be your first student but definitely one. I've always wanted to learn that for automotive racing purposes. Currently debating if to purchase a mig welder to do the famous E46 chasis reinforcement repair
Quick question about grinding various materials in various states like at 07:50 Are you not worried that inhaling those grinded particles might cause health issues in the long run ? That can't be healthy being close without some form of filter Thanks !
Im a huge advocate for those milwaukee die grinder you have there. Been using them for a long time. Pick yourself up some 2" "Roll Lock" discs and a 2" arbor. I personally really love using the scotchbrite versions, you can get way more aggressive with a flappy wheel style Roll Lock. They're great tools budd! Asking the wrong thing from it - by putting a 4-5" wire wheel and jamming it into the piece. Please order this up, and give us a review in a following video! Thanks again! Love from Canada.
The M12 right angle grinders have some kind of load shutoff. They do great if you can keep them at high rpm and have a light touch. They work great with roloc flap and bristle disks. The big batteries are pretty much required to do any real work with them but I’m sold on them! If you don’t have the M12 Cutoff tool then you are definitely missing out! It fits into much tighter areas than a grinder and being able to reverse the blade direction is awesome for keeping sparks out of your face (or anywhere else you want to keep them away from)
I have both Milwaukee grinders too at work and a set for home. I have a love hate relationship with them. They are kinda limited to 2” attachments. I use the straight one mostly for carbide burrs and the right angle one with a roloc attachment and a 2”-3” flap disc. And other attachments works good for quick deburring of a saw cut or paint stripping. Wish they made a little higher power set. Good video 👍👍
As an aircraft mechanic, I clicked as soon as i saw the aircraft exhaust. This video shows very well the reasons most aircraft exhaust repair stations end up replacing all but one or two flanges with new metal. Reusing just a few components makes it still considered a repair instead of a new part despite almost all of the original material being replaced, similar to the ship of Theseus.
Are you not allowed to braze aircraft exhaust? Are operating temps just too high for it to hold? Also, what are those pegs sticking out of that one header in the video?
@AgentWest even a low power carbureted aircraft engine can have exhaust temperatures above 1400°F for several hours during cruise; that's way too hot for brazing. Those pegs are to transfer heat from the exhaust pipe to the air outside the pipe. As others have mentioned, there's a shroud that covers the exhaust, which lets either engine intake air (preventing carburetor ice) or cabin air be heated using the exhaust pipe as a heat exchanger. If you want to see it look up "cabin heat shroud" or "carb heat shroud" in an image search.
@AgentWest even a low power carbureted aircraft engine can have exhaust temperatures above 1400°F for several hours during cruise; that's way too hot for brazing. Those pegs are to transfer heat from the pipe to the air being ducted to either the cabin or the carburetor for keeping the pilot warm or the carb from icing.
@@ERusstbucket Curious that it would use exhaust heat for cabin heater, but makes sense for air cooled engines. Also I did not realize just how hot aircraft headers get.
@AgentWest that is one annoying feature of air cooled engines. To save weight the exhaust is thin walled, so they are prone to cracking too. Carbon monoxide is a very real danger for pilots and still gets experienced pilots. AOPA has a great interview with Dan Bass, who survived after he passed out and his plane crashed into a field.
A great way to get a cheap Forced air hood is to get a mattress inflator that’s battery powered and then you put lithium batteries in it or regular old batteries doesn’t matter .A flex hose ,add a filter and a nice piece of very flexible inch diameter hose to go into your helmet and you’ve got it without spending 1500 or two grand . You might need to slow air air down with a Rio stat or lower voltage . They blow very large CFM in stock form.
That’s a 90 degree die grinder you got there Justin. High speed low torque. It’s for die grinding haha not for chucking a huge wire wheel on. Thats some awesome news, I’m happy it’s coming together for ya!
Would brazing be an alternative in cases like that. Could the weird coloring be leaded gas, or some other additive they used back in the day on old motors
Super job, very typical of used up aviation exhaust. Good amount of LEAD contamination, heat cycles and the parts are THIN. Operational cycles also thins the wall of the tubing due to erosion. I do this kind of repair frequently. Challenging to do and be airworthy.
Those grinders are actually amazing, but with a max diameter of 2" wheels, 4" for cutting wheels. the ryobi version works better for larger wheels because it only cuts out when temp gets too high vs the Milwaukee that goes off of load.
I have the same grinders: like other commenters have said, they work great with smaller wire brushes, but struggle with too much load. I use mine for the scotchbrite disks.
If a person needed to blast that manifold, would it be best to use a stainless shot media on it? Is there a chemical process that would have been ok for the cleaning?
Hi Justin: Thank you so much for your great instructional videos! I would love to work with you at some point, when I get my small boat fabrication business up and running. With regard the the Milwaukee M-12 tool... I prefer Milwaukee and Dewalt. I have several of both. The only Milwauker tool I was dissapointed in is my M-18 hammer drill. It only drilled 7 holes before failing. On the other hand, my M-18 drill, 1/4" hex tool driver, grease gun, and 4.5" grinder work great, (though the grinder goes through batteries quickly.) As for the repair jobs you showed, I thank the person providing the examples of what to reject. The customer would be much better off having you fabricate a new exhaust system from scratch than having you waste your vauable time, (with the 3xception of this valuable learning opportunity,) trying to save a dime at the expense of humdreds of dollars. Keep up the good work!
First of I am not a welder ?thusly? I have a question. Do such exhaust not behave like kinda tempered steel? Would it change its behaviour if you first backed it at ca 400°C for a few hours and then let it cool down in the oven gradually reducing the temperature? kinda like cast iron? Thx in advance P.S.: sorry for eventual linguistic mistakes. English isnt my mothertongue
I'd probably be one of the first to sign up for the school. I've done a decent amount of fab work and welding over the years for myself and my friends, but would love to learn as much as possible
Justin, Milwaukee likely has an auto shutoff on that tool due to the circumference of the wheel on it, causing the auto-torque reaction simulating the motor was stalled due to being captured or stuck... To save the motor. Try a smaller wheel... Awesome content, as usual!!!!
Just a question, could you have tried Inconel 625 filler material? This so reminds of older plane exhaust that I have welded in the past. By the way, have been a fan of ALL of your videos and fab ideas for years.
I'm very confused, you grinded and welded stainless with no respirator? Stainless contains chrome and that is highly carcinogenic since you don't know the part and what chrom was used, it could be chrom 6 and that is super dangerous. Plz explain
I have both of those Milwaukee 1/4 grinders as well. I run the 5ah batteries on them and they just do that with big wheels. 1.5" wire wheel works best from what I've done so far. Or a sanding disc
I would have been off and on the foot pedal a few times filling that hole, letting the puddle freeze and then back at it. Just seemed like a lot of arc time and constant heat in the same small area. Would it make a difference?? Probably not, but maybe reduce the HAZ slightly on a material that is already not that great.
That wheel is to big for that die grinder. I also found out the hard way that the electric ones (that I've seen) are only rated for up to 2". At least the Milwaukee's say it on the box (which of course, we don't read)... other brands have that information buried 10 pages into the manual. With a smaller wheel installed, I've been very happy with mine.
One question JUSTIN. Do you play with chemical etching and cleaning, especially in inside diameter situations where mechanical cleaning is not suitable? What are your thoughts on that?
Hey Justin those Milwaukee M12 are great got them my self but the bad downfall is they have protections in them out of balance it doesn't like and heavy stress on it they don't like that's their downfall 3 in max
For parts like that would it be worth bringing up to a very high heat for a while in a heat treating oven or similar before cleaning/welding to burn off as much contamination as possible?
Dream job right there, would definitely be able to jump in and take control of the role, HELLA not in the right spot in life to come and join TFS. Not even remotely close. I'll stick with wrenching for Tesla for now.
Very interesting video ! Those struggles are real, I've been there several times. Sometimes, in Aluminium, I've just added filler, ground it down, and more filler again and again. In a sandblasted non aluminium part, I'd probably recommend stick welding, as it's less sensitive. In this case, with so thin stainless, stick welding is probably not an option though. So just keep on struggling with the TIG it is 😅
And when you say “ol’ acetone treatment”, are you using anhydrous acetone? Cuz the acetone I have says 100% acetone on the front label, but in the fine print ingredients list it states there’s also a bitterant added called Denatonium Benzoate and it tends to leave a residue behind which may be introducing impurities to surfaces on which it was applied. Upon further research, it looks as if it’s actually a good bit difficult to obtain acetone that doesn’t include some sort of bitterant. Any recommendations?
How would that third weld look if you welded it up, ground off the weld, and cleaned it and welded it again? Does the trash always float to the top? Would that reduce the trash?
Did you think about grinding down the dirty beads a little bit and re-welding over them, chances are the some of that dirt will be ground away and the second bead will go on to cleaner material...
Using a smaller wire wheel and not putting to much pressure on the tool will help a lot but I don’t think it’s made for stuff like grinding metal away I just use it to clean the old silicon of oil pans and surface like that lol
Can you weld to an oxidized surface with a/c? I know that's why you use a/c on aluminum. Maybe it will provide some level of electrolysis to de-oxidize the stainless?
HEADS UP! We know about the fake YT accounts saying you won. They are FAKE accounts. You will NEVER win anything from a comment. We will NEVER ask you for personal info, money, or additional details. The fake accounts do not have the official YT check mark next to them. They are just trying to get money from you. Click on their account and report it.
-Justin
Additionally, we will never ask you to click a link, call a number, download an app, buy gift cards, trade them for bitcoin, fear that we are some random government agency with Indian or Nigerian accents, or ANYTHING related. Scammers are desperate, lonely, useless 3rd worlders searching for gullible people. Give them the biggest middle finger from America that you got!
@@TheFabricatorSeries lol 😂😂😂😂 that's too funny I had one say I won the whole welder wish setup I said I be waiting for you to call 🤙. LoL 🤣🤣🤣
@TheFabricatorSeries Blessings from FL Justin here is one to report if it helps they messaged me @ TheFabricationSeries4
@@PoBoysDiesel that's crazy they messaged me @Thefabricationseries 1
I must say, I'm surprised you haven't invested some of those tube money, in one of those handheld "laser metal analyser" (don't know if they are still laser or developed). For those sometimes rare alloy mixtures in specialist products, like the veteran parts you handled here, that tool is quiet valuable 😉
Hey Justin,
I just want to say you don't really owe us followers for sticking around. The amount of knowledge you contribute in the public domain is worth it's weight in gold. Thanks for being so generous with your time. I wish you surpass your goals.
The pins and the flange are for cabin heat, there is a shroud that covers it and air is forced over the surface and pins as a heat exchanger.
Thanks captain obvious.
@MemorialRR, that's interesting. Thank you for sharing.
@@Lonewadi6242 You are very welcome.
@@Failure_Is_An_Option Shut up, it was not obvious at all, you dink.
Good info. Thanks.
Hi Mr. Justin, thank you for the video. I play with airplanes and the original exhaust was steel in the 1930/1940 but as soon as they went to stainless steel, they started using a 321 stainless which intern uses a 347 filler. The 321 is cladded with titanium to help with the heat cycling, but I agree with you once the part is 70 years old. It has earned retirement.
I am a novice (hobby) welder from the UK and I find these videos so informative - thanks.
the angled grinder is only ment for 2 inch attachments, tried 3 inch myself and it doesnt work, atleast not with wire brushes, a lighter sander might work, but stick with 2 inch stuff and it will work nice. ( had mine for over 4 years now.)
2nd that
YEP!
Yeah I've gotten away with 3" paint stripper discs since they're lighter weight and less drag but 3" wire wheels have too much drag. Mine has been abused for 3 years and still works great
I think it also has to be centered. I had a 2 inch flap disk and it was just slightly off, and it kept stopping as well
Yah it has an overload cut out. The cutoff wheel does the same thing.
Hi Justin， just wanna show my respect，you are a great person to show us free welding lessons. I really like your expertise and your spirit. I cant imagin how hard it is to work in such a hot place. Take care of your throat!🥤
I do a lot of repairs on similar exhaust pipes for aircraft and I use the nonwoven rust/paint removal roloc wheels in two inch. They work great to get to that shiny weldable goodness without removing any material
This is a perfect use case for laser cleaning. It’s definitely affordable at the shop level now.
Yep, great stuff from 3M. I use them since I got to repair / weld some exause pipes on my and some friends motobikes. And Justin, thx for sharing your knowledge with us. I mostly taught myself TIG welding, read a lot and ultimately learned a lot from people like you. For all other types of welding I had lessons in my training as a car mechanic here in Germany. But that was more than 30 years ago.😂
Don't use brake cleaners for weld preparation. Look it up.
@@donaldoehl7690 use non chlorinated
I used to subscribe to a LOT of welding and fabrication channels, now I follow maybe four or five and you are by far the best one. You have the natural ability to be able to make learning as interesting as it is educational. You're a great instructor / teacher, and a fantastic welder/fabricator. Thanks
As already stated, your skillz are top shelf! I was watching that forward back and thinking wow, then you commented on it to confirm what I was seeing. I doubt I'll ever attend a class or do welding for money but I definitely want to thank you for posting up these type vids for us hacks out here melting metal and trying to claim it as welding.
Keep up the great work!
That weird smell may actually be lead contamination as aircraft can run "Avgas" which still contains lead to up the octane. I have welded an exhaust off a plane that has run Avgas before and it is a very distinct smell along with the white fume that looks almost like an incense burner.
Yup lead 4 sure, specially being a 1940s/50s era exhaust
Not only CAN they run AvGas, they are required to use AvGas unless the owner spends a lot of money to get an STC to run MoGas.
@@captaintoyota3171aircraft still burn leaded fuel
Lead makes a blue-white color when burning so I would say that confirms lead is the issue. Dont want to breath those fumes!
I was actually just making a comment to mention that, glad I looked first. :D Yeah, and I wonder what the residue on the inside of the melted metal. What does stainless become when glazed with tetra-ethyl lead and soot on the inside?
I have over 20 years of dealing with jobs like this and worse taken by my employer. Great job showing true hard work with experience and the difficulties that come with these types of jobs. Making sure the customer knows the very high possibility of a failed outcome is very important. Great video dude! Don't take the bad ones😂
Justin I took your stainless and aluminum TIG courses four years ago and it was without question the best money I’ve ever spent.
The various platforms you’ve created to help others learn are incredible.
What ever happened to the car you were building?
I was a welder in another life, but finished my career as a welding inspector in the petro-chemical industry. We often have to weld new material to existing material that has been contaminated by process fluids. While meticulous cleaning of the old material is helpful, there are often contaminants within the grain structure. A technique referred to as "buttering" is a useful in welding a difficult joint that has the puddle popping up with contaminants. This includes laying down a sacrificial pass or two of weld metal that is then ground out before attempting to weld out the joint. The oxide scavengers in the welding consumable will often eliminate enough of the contamination to successfully complete (pass x-ray inspection) the joint. Don't know if that would have been any help with this job.
With the sacrificial weld, do you just tap it once or twice around the edges or how do you normally do that?
I have done many of those same repairs, I make my customers aware of all the things you mentioned and leave it up to them and nine times out of ten they will ask me to do the work. Honesty is the best policy!
Much love from So Cal, appreciate you for this walkthrough and countless others. I've been tuned in since your tube bending series and can't tell you how much i've learned from your channel alone. As for this video, thank you for sticking through the +100 degree weather, getting the raspy voice, and still being a good sport about it. Take care!
This angle die grinder is designed for high speed low force. I've had good success with 3 in Scotch-Brite Roloc. Assuming your wire will is designed for a drill, the max rating is 4500 RPMs. I noticed you had it on the the the highest setting, which I believe is over 20,000 RPMs. It's also kind of dangerous. Hate to be the safety nerd.
@@wesbri-p9e yeah, I've exploded a couple of wire wheels with my die grinder - they definitely don't like 20k rpm! Still finding bristles around the shop months later 😆
I suspect it is virtually impossible to truly clean lead off of a piece of pipe as you tried .- lead is forever. Nice to see when even a professional struggles - it gives me hope that my technique will improve.
Don't use brake cleaner because it makes phosgene gas when you weld. VERY unhealthy. There is a vid from welder that suffered liver damage this way. He may have passed already.
It is also possible the part is inconel as it’s a commonly used alloy for aircraft exhaust
I have never heard of an inconel exhaust on a piston engine. Turbines absolutely, but not pistons.
@@silaskuemmerle2505 In the World Rally Championship, Inconel is used in a few high heat areas on the car. On the old Subaru WRX cars, it was used in part of the exhaust as part of the anti-lag system. It wouldn't surprise me if the manifold is Inconel because of the use on an aircraft
@@Awkward_Fox well that's an aircraft part not a car part, and as an aircraft mechanic I have not encountered an inconel exhaust on piston engine aircraft.
Has that sludgy look
Agreed; or even possibly Monel... could explain the weird oxidized colour, and also why the weld pool was acting a little different...
Blessings from Kissimmee FL brother I am sorry about the fumes and the reaction on your throat I had experienced something like that years ago when melting lead I hope you feel better soon Take care bud
I'm thrilled with the announcements at the end of the video. Congrats on your success, and best of luck in the future. I was speaking with some of the guys at the annual Shelby Dodge convention this year, and not surprisingly, we all watch your videos. Keep them coming.
FYI! I have the right angle M12. It's only, ok. Does what yours does, but much less so. Point of post, I discovered the RYOBI pistol grip die grinder, and it is awesome. Lots speed, and torque. No stalls! I got mine on sale for $99 bucks with 2 batteries. I love it!!! I think it was as much as $179 bare tool. I'd say it's worth it, even at that price. I really have no brand loyalty any more. This RYOBI is actually very very nice. Comfortable in hand, and lots of power. I will buy another for sure. I haven't tried the M12 straight die grinder yet.
Hey, Justin! I can't thank you enough for these videos. I've learned so much from them.
The glow is caused by higher content of chromium and a few other metals that are used in aviation stainless. That's quite the nasty stuff and I wouldn't go near it without a respirator. So people should really appreciate the fact that you do all this just to teach us! Love to see you work.
“Aviation” stainless? What grade is that? 😂 is it like aircraft aluminum? Literally no such thing. 😅
@notanymore9471 "aircraft aluminium" is usually 2024 Alclad..
Sr George Utah here, My neighbor might have got your McDonalds, we were talking and here comes the delivery guy. Def didnt order it, but his name is Justin too! I made a WMO order to make up for it. Id also love to win the welders, my everlast are ok, but those would be better. ;)
Your smelling avgas, and its 70 years old, its probably actually lead that has built up and then melted into everything. Lead starts offgassing toxic fumes around 800°f. Lead is clumpy and sludgy and doesnt like to flow out.
@@davemcdaniel4856 I've mentioned the same thing I do repair on a lot of aircraft exhaust for experimental airplanes no certificates needed for experimental airplanes but have to be careful about lead gas it's even in the av gas low lead still gases off have a hi Dollar respirator for it. Even had it when doing flooring for 20 yrs allot of old floors containing asbestos and formaldehyde....
That was my thought also when he mentioned the funny glow... Highly likely to be lead 🤮 hope he didn't have to breathe much in!
35:00 I don’t know if many noticed this but the tungsten tip to work distance was incredible. The control he demonstrated after the arc did its wandering after startup was insane, unlike in a straight line keeping that tungsten soo close across the uneven radius corner takes incredible skill and concentration to not dip the tungsten. The fact that he did dip the tungsten before the shot goes to show just how difficult and uncooperative this piece was being. Porosity aside most people would struggle with the skill to even replicate the result so YES your intention to pick and choose your jobs, refuse the jobs that demonstrate potential issues got across … (at least it did for me).
Glad you're able to be back. The way you break down what you're doing in the videos is enjoyable to watch. As much welding as I do teach, I wish I had all the skills needed to come work with you. Maybe one day.
I recently started a welding/fab job with a heritage steam train company here in the UK. So I can totally relate to the frustrations of working on 70+ year old parts that have had countless heat cycles through them, most everything is also covered in grease and soot haha
Great job Justin! Now I know what to expect on a heat-cycled piece. Thanks
nowhere near vegas, never welded a thing in my life, no nothing about video but what you're doing is great!
Still don’t understand how this channel doesn’t have millions of subs.
Because not everyone is welder? and every welder don't spend lot of time in yt I guess?
@@philipmendorensis8687 There are a good amount of “fabrication” channels with more subs.(I get subs don’t equal views) Something to think about, is everyone that watches “Deadliest Catch” a crab fisherman? Does everyone that watches “Dirty Jobs” clean sludge out of sewers? Watch “B is for Build” he basically talks while an hourly employee does all the work inbetween blatant 20 minute advertisements. I don’t mean to bash that channel too much but it’s kinda a hack operation. Have you seen the latest underwater art display they are building? There is also that other channel where it’s all jump cuts with bad generic rock/metal music playing while they butcher everything they do.
@@philipmendorensis8687 Erm... This Old Tony, Welding Tips and Tricks, AvE, all over 1M subs.... Honestly Justin doesn't get enough love his content is fantastic.
This makes me feel a lot better about my welds! Im a machinist jit a welder but i do 90% of the TIG jobs at work(ive been TIG welding for years unprofessionally) but we usually get dirty, old, irreplacable parts for old equipment, and if YOU can't make every weld look like a banger, i feel good about my welds on similarly fugged parts not looking like IG welders lol. So far knock on wood nothing has come back.
Thanks for the content
A few comments from people familiar with aircraft parts suggested this exhaust may have been Inconel not 304, 310, 316, or some other austenitic SS material. If you are convinced that an unknow material is stainless steel, but unsure of the grade, a good option for the consumable is ENiCrMo-3. It will work as well or better than E309 on 300 grade SS material and definitely better if it happens to be Inconel. The only cavate is that it is expensive.
When you mentioned the smell of avgas, I figured lead would be a potential hazard. Your instinct to wear a respirator was a good one. Thanks for a very informative video!
I will take the reduced audio quality so he can wear a respirator and protect his health.
Most the moisture your seeing during pre heat on the metal is a biproduct of the torch combustion. Its condensing on the cool metal stops once it heats up.
This. It drives me nuts when people insist that they're magically drawing moisture out of the material. It is simple condensation from the biproduct of combustion of many hydrocarbons, water...
The same thing happens when hot air from an electric heat gun hits cold metal. Moisture in the hot air momentarily condenses out on the metal and then quickly evaporates as the metal heats up. Car windshields fog up through an identical mechanism.
@@Zerk_Ziegler I presume you're responding to a spambot that said you won something? That message has been removed.
@@davidg3944 👍
I bought a Milwaukee rotary tool. The first one died after a couple uses. It was "repaired" once (they didn't return the collet nut) and then replaced under warranty after it failed again. On this one, any signifcant load and it quits, but will restart after a few seconds. I still rely on the corded Dremel for extended use.
All of them do that. Any real load and it turns off after a second or two. Worst tool I've bought from them by far.
I have a straight grinder bosch ggs 18v 10slc hasnt let me down yet. But its not light and not really a one hand machine.
You are overloading the small 2ah battery. Try a 4ah battery.
Hey high speed, drink some buttermilk and honey to soothe your throat. I’ve been watching your videos for a couple or three years, and I enjoy watching your high enthusiastic and professional approach to welding and fabrication. No I’m not asking for an instructor position, I know I’m not one your looking for so I’m not trying to butter you up. I just wanted to let you know I’m impressed with your willingness to share your tips and the strive to make name for yourself with the skills you have. Keep it up, and don’t forget to take a break once in a while so you don’t burn yourself out. Best of luck Justin!!
That ring around the aircraft exhaust is for the cabin heater and the carb heater. It’s a shroud that goes around it, the nubs are to help transfer the heat to air, airflow comes from the prop airflow / movement thru the air.
I came from the 7 years old intercooler piping building video, honestly inspire me to make something way better on my DSM
Congrats on your other businesses. I'm definitely looking forward to more TFS content
Thank you for letting me watch you weld. Your talking as you weld helps a lot. If my view through my helmet was as good as your video I could be a better welder. Keep up the good work.
Gene
Justin, your enthusiasm is contagious, I have never seen you this pumped up before.........
congratulations on your growth and plans for the future........PB
Amazing camera work, as always! Great episode.
Can't use those big attachments on the mini right angle grinder, it overloads it for me. Works great for using smaller attachments where you don't want a big angle grinder. Also works really great for cutoff wheels (it can handle larger ones of those).
So glad to see TFS back up againb and understand hat it had to take a hit for you to get weldcoach up and runnin. Honestly watching TFS is what inspired me to get into metal fabrication so I am going back to school at 46 to start over. RTeached the top of my last career and was not rewarding anymore so on to the next chapter just waiting to hear back about a fgrant to go back to school since it is something that is offered in the area I live and the tool grant will hjelp iommensly especially with purchasing an AC/DC tig machine for myself along with a plasma cutter
The stud setup is for the cabin heating, on a lot/most small airplanes they heat the cabin using exhaust heat, pulling air through a shroud around the manifold, the studs help with heat transfer.
Man great work. The videos you have produced are fantastic, I've learnt a lot over the years from watching them. Congratulations. Keep it up.
First time watching your channel & video. I was very impressed with your determination to fix this problem & you almost overcame it. True that the metal is oxidized or has so many little pin holes in it thats what the problem surely was. Sure, sandblasting may have a been a part of it but after 28 years in this industry I would still lean back on severe oxidation & fatigue of the metal. I would've either welded it out, tiger paw or grind out any porosity, welded up those spots then "tiger paw" or flapper sanded the whole weld putting down a light stringer then examining the weld for any defects, if none, sand it down yet again, clean it well with a solvent then go for the "full monty". My second choice would be to cut it off nearest to the base metal & ship the piece off to a company that could replicate the piece, get it back into my shop & weld it back onto the original piece. Sure, its more costly but your dealing with aviation parts that help or make the engine run. Thats not the exhaust of your buddies side by side or a 4 wheeler. Good video & I know your cooking hot in Nevada at a dry heat of 115. Try doing what your doing in deep south Louisiana at 11 0 with the heat index at nearly 100%!!!! Good luck brother & keep on doing what your doing!
I wonder if the lead in the leaded gasoline used in old aviation fuel had deposited on the piece. Could contribute to your sore throat.
first and foremost, thank you for sharing your expertise with us. you are a wealth of knowledge, and i know that many people have learned so much from you. (especially how to load a trailer,....)
i am excited to see more fabrication content, and the news about more forthcoming is quite welcomed!! i am equally excited to hear of the plans for a specialized technical program in the works, and hope for outstanding success with that. i also hope that you can find the right people for the work. i believe that will just catapult your endeavors to the moon and beyond.
all the best and keep well.
I swear I'm never going to live out the trailer loading comments despite my success 6 times over 😅
Thank you for your comment and continued support!
-Justin
YESSSSS! More classes! Cant wait, thanks for what you do!
Glad to see the double OG is still posting.
hey Justin, If it was going on aircraft It's SOP to back gas otherwise you will get embrittlment (sugar baby). I wold use a 347 rod .035" or .045" on this, most AC exhaust is around .060" unless it's on a turbo which is usually a little heavier. I really enjoy your video's, Thanks!
Q douse to you sir. For what you’re doing hope you get the right people to help you going forward. Look forward to seeing what you have to offer. All the best 👍 Bob.
Challenging jobs like this make us better welders. Even if there is a 100% chance of failure.
Even if you don’t get paid for this job, it’s still a great learning experience.
Remember, experience is priceless.
G’day mate, another great video. With the garbage that floated up, would there be any benefit in grinding it down and putting another bead on top? Or would this be futile and just bring more rubbish to the surface?
Cheers for all the insight you provide.
I think your issue is with the small 1.5ah 12V battery, for my right angle grinder I use a 6AH battery and never have the load down issue you're having. Hope that helps. So what cleaning method would have been best if not blasting, would a different media would have been better like walnut or metal oxide or chemical dipping?
I won't be your first student but definitely one. I've always wanted to learn that for automotive racing purposes. Currently debating if to purchase a mig welder to do the famous E46 chasis reinforcement repair
What a great teacher. Someone that enjoys what they do and shows the rite way to do it is priceless. Thank you for another great tutorial :-}
Quick question about grinding various materials in various states like at 07:50
Are you not worried that inhaling those grinded particles might cause health issues in the long run ? That can't be healthy being close without some form of filter
Thanks !
Im a huge advocate for those milwaukee die grinder you have there. Been using them for a long time. Pick yourself up some 2" "Roll Lock" discs and a 2" arbor. I personally really love using the scotchbrite versions, you can get way more aggressive with a flappy wheel style Roll Lock. They're great tools budd! Asking the wrong thing from it - by putting a 4-5" wire wheel and jamming it into the piece. Please order this up, and give us a review in a following video! Thanks again! Love from Canada.
The M12 right angle grinders have some kind of load shutoff. They do great if you can keep them at high rpm and have a light touch. They work great with roloc flap and bristle disks. The big batteries are pretty much required to do any real work with them but I’m sold on them!
If you don’t have the M12 Cutoff tool then you are definitely missing out! It fits into much tighter areas than a grinder and being able to reverse the blade direction is awesome for keeping sparks out of your face (or anywhere else you want to keep them away from)
Great video. I’m sure you’ve saved some novice welders a lot of time and money with the experience you’ve shared!
I have both Milwaukee grinders too at work and a set for home. I have a love hate relationship with them. They are kinda limited to 2” attachments. I use the straight one mostly for carbide burrs and the right angle one with a roloc attachment and a 2”-3” flap disc. And other attachments works good for quick deburring of a saw cut or paint stripping. Wish they made a little higher power set. Good video 👍👍
As always Justin, a great video on a great channel. I am an old dog and yet you teach me new tricks with each video. With great respect.... Joe
As an aircraft mechanic, I clicked as soon as i saw the aircraft exhaust. This video shows very well the reasons most aircraft exhaust repair stations end up replacing all but one or two flanges with new metal. Reusing just a few components makes it still considered a repair instead of a new part despite almost all of the original material being replaced, similar to the ship of Theseus.
Are you not allowed to braze aircraft exhaust? Are operating temps just too high for it to hold?
Also, what are those pegs sticking out of that one header in the video?
@AgentWest even a low power carbureted aircraft engine can have exhaust temperatures above 1400°F for several hours during cruise; that's way too hot for brazing. Those pegs are to transfer heat from the exhaust pipe to the air outside the pipe. As others have mentioned, there's a shroud that covers the exhaust, which lets either engine intake air (preventing carburetor ice) or cabin air be heated using the exhaust pipe as a heat exchanger. If you want to see it look up "cabin heat shroud" or "carb heat shroud" in an image search.
@AgentWest even a low power carbureted aircraft engine can have exhaust temperatures above 1400°F for several hours during cruise; that's way too hot for brazing. Those pegs are to transfer heat from the pipe to the air being ducted to either the cabin or the carburetor for keeping the pilot warm or the carb from icing.
@@ERusstbucket Curious that it would use exhaust heat for cabin heater, but makes sense for air cooled engines. Also I did not realize just how hot aircraft headers get.
@AgentWest that is one annoying feature of air cooled engines. To save weight the exhaust is thin walled, so they are prone to cracking too. Carbon monoxide is a very real danger for pilots and still gets experienced pilots. AOPA has a great interview with Dan Bass, who survived after he passed out and his plane crashed into a field.
A great way to get a cheap Forced air hood is to get a mattress inflator that’s battery powered and then you put lithium batteries in it or regular old batteries doesn’t matter .A flex hose ,add a filter and a nice piece of very flexible inch diameter hose to go into your helmet and you’ve got it without spending 1500 or two grand . You might need to slow air air down with a Rio stat or lower voltage . They blow very large CFM in stock form.
That’s a 90 degree die grinder you got there Justin. High speed low torque. It’s for die grinding haha not for chucking a huge wire wheel on.
Thats some awesome news, I’m happy it’s coming together for ya!
Would brazing be an alternative in cases like that. Could the weird coloring be leaded gas, or some other additive they used back in the day on old motors
Super job, very typical of used up aviation exhaust. Good amount of LEAD contamination, heat cycles and the parts are THIN. Operational cycles also thins the wall of the tubing due to erosion.
I do this kind of repair frequently. Challenging to do and be airworthy.
Those grinders are actually amazing, but with a max diameter of 2" wheels, 4" for cutting wheels. the ryobi version works better for larger wheels because it only cuts out when temp gets too high vs the Milwaukee that goes off of load.
Nice video. Question: why didn't you weld a patch over the holes instead of filling with weld?
I think we all can tell your a bit overwhelmed with all of it just keep it going happy too see your making it all happen congratulations
I have the same grinders: like other commenters have said, they work great with smaller wire brushes, but struggle with too much load. I use mine for the scotchbrite disks.
If a person needed to blast that manifold, would it be best to use a stainless shot media on it? Is there a chemical process that would have been ok for the cleaning?
Dear Justin, still here and always a fan of you and the Channel.....best regards from Orlando, Paul
I have the M12 RA die grinder and it works great with 1”-3” roloc discs. I do use a 5ah or 6ah battery with it though.
Hi Justin: Thank you so much for your great instructional videos! I would love to work with you at some point, when I get my small boat fabrication business up and running.
With regard the the Milwaukee M-12 tool... I prefer Milwaukee and Dewalt. I have several of both. The only Milwauker tool I was dissapointed in is my M-18 hammer drill. It only drilled 7 holes before failing. On the other hand, my M-18 drill, 1/4" hex tool driver, grease gun, and 4.5" grinder work great, (though the grinder goes through batteries quickly.)
As for the repair jobs you showed, I thank the person providing the examples of what to reject. The customer would be much better off having you fabricate a new exhaust system from scratch than having you waste your vauable time, (with the 3xception of this valuable learning opportunity,) trying to save a dime at the expense of humdreds of dollars.
Keep up the good work!
I'm super excited to see TFS coming back into your focus! Super excited to see what you cook up! I'm sure it'll be spicy! :D
Gas welded originally by the looks of it. The Milwaukee is overloaded and it shuts down so you don't burn up the battery apparently. it's annoying
Gas welding doesn't work very well with stainless.
First of I am not a welder ?thusly? I have a question. Do such exhaust not behave like kinda tempered steel? Would it change its behaviour if you first backed it at ca 400°C for a few hours and then let it cool down in the oven gradually reducing the temperature? kinda like cast iron?
Thx in advance
P.S.: sorry for eventual linguistic mistakes. English isnt my mothertongue
I'd probably be one of the first to sign up for the school. I've done a decent amount of fab work and welding over the years for myself and my friends, but would love to learn as much as possible
Justin, Milwaukee likely has an auto shutoff on that tool due to the circumference of the wheel on it, causing the auto-torque reaction simulating the motor was stalled due to being captured or stuck... To save the motor. Try a smaller wheel... Awesome content, as usual!!!!
Just a question, could you have tried Inconel 625 filler material? This so reminds of older plane exhaust that I have welded in the past. By the way, have been a fan of ALL of your videos and fab ideas for years.
I'm very confused, you grinded and welded stainless with no respirator?
Stainless contains chrome and that is highly carcinogenic since you don't know the part and what chrom was used, it could be chrom 6 and that is super dangerous.
Plz explain
29:50 is it possible to add some flux to help clean the pool, like you would when soldering?
I have both of those Milwaukee 1/4 grinders as well. I run the 5ah batteries on them and they just do that with big wheels. 1.5" wire wheel works best from what I've done so far. Or a sanding disc
I would have been off and on the foot pedal a few times filling that hole, letting the puddle freeze and then back at it. Just seemed like a lot of arc time and constant heat in the same small area.
Would it make a difference?? Probably not, but maybe reduce the HAZ slightly on a material that is already not that great.
That wheel is to big for that die grinder. I also found out the hard way that the electric ones (that I've seen) are only rated for up to 2". At least the Milwaukee's say it on the box (which of course, we don't read)... other brands have that information buried 10 pages into the manual.
With a smaller wheel installed, I've been very happy with mine.
One question JUSTIN. Do you play with chemical etching and cleaning, especially in inside diameter situations where mechanical cleaning is not suitable? What are your thoughts on that?
Hey Justin those Milwaukee M12 are great got them my self but the bad downfall is they have protections in them out of balance it doesn't like and heavy stress on it they don't like that's their downfall 3 in max
For parts like that would it be worth bringing up to a very high heat for a while in a heat treating oven or similar before cleaning/welding to burn off as much contamination as possible?
Dream job right there, would definitely be able to jump in and take control of the role, HELLA not in the right spot in life to come and join TFS. Not even remotely close. I'll stick with wrenching for Tesla for now.
Very interesting video ! Those struggles are real, I've been there several times.
Sometimes, in Aluminium, I've just added filler, ground it down, and more filler again and again.
In a sandblasted non aluminium part, I'd probably recommend stick welding, as it's less sensitive.
In this case, with so thin stainless, stick welding is probably not an option though.
So just keep on struggling with the TIG it is 😅
I have that lil angel grinder it works well if you use small diameter attachments.
And when you say “ol’ acetone treatment”, are you using anhydrous acetone? Cuz the acetone I have says 100% acetone on the front label, but in the fine print ingredients list it states there’s also a bitterant added called Denatonium Benzoate and it tends to leave a residue behind which may be introducing impurities to surfaces on which it was applied. Upon further research, it looks as if it’s actually a good bit difficult to obtain acetone that doesn’t include some sort of bitterant. Any recommendations?
Great instruction as always.... just wondering, what setup do you use for the arc shots? ISO, fstop, filters? Thanks
How would that third weld look if you welded it up, ground off the weld, and cleaned it and welded it again? Does the trash always float to the top? Would that reduce the trash?
Did you think about grinding down the dirty beads a little bit and re-welding over them, chances are the some of that dirt will be ground away and the second bead will go on to cleaner material...
Using a smaller wire wheel and not putting to much pressure on the tool will help a lot but I don’t think it’s made for stuff like grinding metal away I just use it to clean the old silicon of oil pans and surface like that lol
Can you weld to an oxidized surface with a/c? I know that's why you use a/c on aluminum. Maybe it will provide some level of electrolysis to de-oxidize the stainless?