Thank you so much for taking the time to post and explain. Most of the u tubers are non professionals and work on their own cars. Your experience is invaluable. I am doing my trailing arms next week. i have to sell the car (84 Targa) with a tapping noise at idle sounds like rod bearing. The car has 200.000 miles and has been sitting in the garage for 7 years. I dont have the money to fix the engine. Originally I took them off to paint the engine compartment and then realized all the bushings were shot. The car has been restored 95% after ten years of work. It is killing me to sell her.
If a bushing in the torsion bar is bad, will it make a 1 clunk noise once the car is lowered to the floor ? This is a sympton i had today while i switched my rear shocks & struts out
@@klassikats the shock is brand new, i heard a clunk 1 time when lowering, i joyce tested the suspension by bouncing the rear up n down, no clunks, maybe a sway bar or spring plate bushing ? ps both rear shocks were replaced
@@klassikats im getting the clunk from lower down, once lowering and adding load to the car, checked the shock top bushing, they are firm with no play, the strut is not moving
Another great video! Can you give us the torque specs for the two exentric bolts? The two other bolts on the suspention arm/plate? And the four bolts holding the bushing over the torsion bar? Thanks.
Perrick, We cover those tightening torques later in our wheel alignment video that is currently being edited. I usually just tighten them temporally as i need to loosen again to do the alignment. But until that video comes out here are the numbers. The adjustment eccentric's are 60 NM and the two attachment bolts are 95 NM. Look for those later videos to come out shortly. Thanks for watching Kurt
Just found your channel a few days ago (laying down on the couch with Covid) I really love your work and the experience you share. Did many of these jobs also on our 84 Coupe and 85 Targa. I especially love the videos about engine and transmission rebuilds as I will tackle this on my next project. One question on this one: Don’t you tighten both bushing bolts with the car in its riding level? Tightening these bolts with the car jacked up will lead to a pretension of the rubber bushings, no? Thanks and best regards from Munich, Germany!
Markus, Glad you are enjoying the videos. Sorry to hear you have Covid. Glad that you are enjoying the videos, though. Yes, I will generally do the final tighten on the swing arm bushings when the car is sitting on my wheel alignment table. Thanks again Kurt
I’ve just had a thought… is there a reason why we can’t just change the rubber bushing and inner part, and leave the steel shell in? Provided the replacement is exactly the same,cant see why the steel shell that is in the aluminium arm needs to be replaced?
What do you think about feeding feeding the 22mm bolts from the gearbox side to the outside? I ask because the ears are cupped in a way that made it very difficult to get ahold of the bolt head on my 88. I got it off but worried about getting it tightened up again. Thanks for the video.
How does these bushing in a bad state affect the car under driving? I have budging going on and off the accellerator pedal and suspect the bushings to be worn out. Any thoughts?
A worn bushing can result in several different effects on the vehicle, depending on how much wear has occurred. In all cases, the trailing arm will no longer be in its correct position. This will change the wheel alignment settings and how the car handles. When a bushing becomes really bad the control arm will physically move back and forth under the stress of driving. This results in a very erratic driving experience and the car will not feel good while corning and may pull in one direction. In the final stages of bushing failure, the rubber will eventually break out and leave the bushing. This will result in noises, (banging noise), and excessive arm movement making the vehicle not safe to operate at all.
@@klassikats Thank you for an in depth response. I'll do some checks during this winter to see if I should move forward with this repair. It is kind of extensive to go through with it. The car has a rebuilt trans and engine and everything from the gear knob to the wheel hub has been gone through. After the transmission rebuild the jerking motion going on and off the gaspedal improved, but it is still noticeable. Love your videos. I hope we'll see more of them in the future. Also, as an enthusiast having a g body car for the last decade, I've experienced that there are a lot of misunderstandings of how the suspension should be set up on these cars. Some say that you ruin the driving characteristics when lowering the car below factory spec, some say you can't put on the coilover conversion kits as they also ruin the car. What do you think of the upgrades that are offered on the market compared to the OEM setup, which is outdated? Let's have the presumption that the vast majority of end users are "nice weather"-drivers that are far from racing drivers, but are fond of a great driving experience.
@@NN-wd2vi NN, The suspension system is designed specifically around the range of motion of the components used in it and the weight of the vehicle that it supports. When lowering a vehicle you can lower it to the point that the suspension geometry of the parts will no longer effectively work together. In a production streetcar, the suspension is usually set a little softer. By doing this it will make the car more comfortable to drive while still giving reasonable handling over a large majority of road conditions. Changing rubber bushings to hard poly or brass bushings in a streetcar is not a good idea. The ride quality will be severely affected and often the changes in the handling characteristics can result in a loss of control of the vehicle. Replacing the torsion bars with coil-over struts can be done, but it is rarely done correctly. Often the range of motion and the spring rates used in the coil-over aftermarket parts are not very good. This can lead to poor handling and loos of control while driving on the street. There are a lot of factors that go into choosing an aftermarket component for any car. Modifications can be done but the installer needs to know what they are doing.
Is there anything you can’t do to these vintage Porsche’s. ? I need to drop my 911 off with a bag of money and get some work like this done ? How much $ is a job like this on a 75 Targa ?
Why didn’t you do all the bushings after you had everything dropped and apart? Seems like a big job for not changing everything possible in that situation?
Thank you so much for taking the time to post and explain. Most of the u tubers are non professionals and work on their own cars. Your experience is invaluable. I am doing my trailing arms next week. i have to sell the car (84 Targa) with a tapping noise at idle sounds like rod bearing. The car has 200.000 miles and has been sitting in the garage for 7 years. I dont have the money to fix the engine. Originally I took them off to paint the engine compartment and then realized all the bushings were shot. The car has been restored 95% after ten years of work. It is killing me to sell her.
Bernard,
Sorry to hear about your motor. Glad I could help you with your project
Kurt
@@klassikats this deserves a bottle of good wine. Where about are you in the US? Bernard.
If a bushing in the torsion bar is bad, will it make a 1 clunk noise once the car is lowered to the floor ? This is a sympton i had today while i switched my rear shocks & struts out
Not usually. a clunk when lowering is usually a shock or sway bar bushing issue
Kurt
@@klassikats the shock is brand new, i heard a clunk 1 time when lowering, i joyce tested the suspension by bouncing the rear up n down, no clunks, maybe a sway bar or spring plate bushing ? ps both rear shocks were replaced
@@MIKEZGAMER-g8b spring/torsion bars will squeak not really clunk. Make sure your shock top bushings are correctly fitted.
Kurt
@@klassikats im getting the clunk from lower down, once lowering and adding load to the car, checked the shock top bushing, they are firm with no play, the strut is not moving
Thank you for making this video! It helped us trough the process of rebuilding the rear arms. Keep up the great work!!
Glad it helped!
Kurt
Great video, thanks Kurt!
Glad you liked it!
Great to see how that is done Kurt. Thank you
Glad you enjoyed it, thanks
nice, am about to change my vw type 3 rears, this is perfect.
Nice, it makes a big difference.
Kurt
nice video! Muchas gracias! Estos videos son muy explicativos!
Glad you like it...
Thanks for watching
Another great video! Can you give us the torque specs for the two exentric bolts? The two other bolts on the suspention arm/plate? And the four bolts holding the bushing over the torsion bar? Thanks.
Perrick,
We cover those tightening torques later in our wheel alignment video that is currently being edited. I usually just tighten them temporally as i need to loosen again to do the alignment. But until that video comes out here are the numbers. The adjustment eccentric's are 60 NM and the two attachment bolts are 95 NM. Look for those later videos to come out shortly.
Thanks for watching
Kurt
Another excellent video.
Thanks again!
Very handy video as I'm just reassembling my SC's rear suspension now - thanks! Do I detect (vaguely) an Australian or NZ accent?
Glad it helped
Thanks for watching
Great vid 👍🏼 where is the spring plate video, thanks
Editing that one right now! Thanks for watching and keep an eye out for spring plate and torsion bars.
Is this an original disc setup or a conversion? Why is there both drum and disc brakes??
The drum brake is the hand/parking brake. S
Just found your channel a few days ago (laying down on the couch with Covid) I really love your work and the experience you share. Did many of these jobs also on our 84 Coupe and 85 Targa. I especially love the videos about engine and transmission rebuilds as I will tackle this on my next project.
One question on this one: Don’t you tighten both bushing bolts with the car in its riding level? Tightening these bolts with the car jacked up will lead to a pretension of the rubber bushings, no?
Thanks and best regards from Munich, Germany!
Markus, Glad you are enjoying the videos. Sorry to hear you have Covid. Glad that you are enjoying the videos, though. Yes, I will generally do the final tighten on the swing arm bushings when the car is sitting on my wheel alignment table.
Thanks again Kurt
I’ve just had a thought… is there a reason why we can’t just change the rubber bushing and inner part, and leave the steel shell in? Provided the replacement is exactly the same,cant see why the steel shell that is in the aluminium arm needs to be replaced?
because the rubber is vulcanized to the shell
Kurt
What do you think about feeding feeding the 22mm bolts from the gearbox side to the outside? I ask because the ears are cupped in a way that made it very difficult to get ahold of the bolt head on my 88. I got it off but worried about getting it tightened up again. Thanks for the video.
I guess you could reverse the bolts I just have never done it so not sure what implications it would have.
Kurt
@@klassikats Thanks for your thoughts, Garrett
How does these bushing in a bad state affect the car under driving? I have budging going on and off the accellerator pedal and suspect the bushings to be worn out. Any thoughts?
A worn bushing can result in several different effects on the vehicle, depending on how much wear has occurred. In all cases, the trailing arm will no longer be in its correct position. This will change the wheel alignment settings and how the car handles. When a bushing becomes really bad the control arm will physically move back and forth under the stress of driving. This results in a very erratic driving experience and the car will not feel good while corning and may pull in one direction. In the final stages of bushing failure, the rubber will eventually break out and leave the bushing. This will result in noises, (banging noise), and excessive arm movement making the vehicle not safe to operate at all.
@@klassikats Thank you for an in depth response. I'll do some checks during this winter to see if I should move forward with this repair. It is kind of extensive to go through with it. The car has a rebuilt trans and engine and everything from the gear knob to the wheel hub has been gone through. After the transmission rebuild the jerking motion going on and off the gaspedal improved, but it is still noticeable. Love your videos. I hope we'll see more of them in the future. Also, as an enthusiast having a g body car for the last decade, I've experienced that there are a lot of misunderstandings of how the suspension should be set up on these cars. Some say that you ruin the driving characteristics when lowering the car below factory spec, some say you can't put on the coilover conversion kits as they also ruin the car. What do you think of the upgrades that are offered on the market compared to the OEM setup, which is outdated? Let's have the presumption that the vast majority of end users are "nice weather"-drivers that are far from racing drivers, but are fond of a great driving experience.
@@NN-wd2vi NN,
The suspension system is designed specifically around the range of motion of the components used in it and the weight of the vehicle that it supports. When lowering a vehicle you can lower it to the point that the suspension geometry of the parts will no longer effectively work together. In a production streetcar, the suspension is usually set a little softer. By doing this it will make the car more comfortable to drive while still giving reasonable handling over a large majority of road conditions. Changing rubber bushings to hard poly or brass bushings in a streetcar is not a good idea. The ride quality will be severely affected and often the changes in the handling characteristics can result in a loss of control of the vehicle. Replacing the torsion bars with coil-over struts can be done, but it is rarely done correctly. Often the range of motion and the spring rates used in the coil-over aftermarket parts are not very good. This can lead to poor handling and loos of control while driving on the street. There are a lot of factors that go into choosing an aftermarket component for any car. Modifications can be done but the installer needs to know what they are doing.
Is there anything you can’t do to these vintage Porsche’s. ?
I need to drop my 911 off with a bag of money and get some work like this done ? How much $ is a job like this on a 75 Targa ?
depends on how bad your car is. I would figure around $2500 to $3500
Kurt
No springs, just shock absorbers?
Torsion bars...
Why didn’t you do all the bushings after you had everything dropped and apart?
Seems like a big job for not changing everything possible in that situation?
Which bushings are you referring to ? We may not have shown all the bushings on this video as well.
Kurt