Hello Brian That is called a adjustable gland nut wrench..I don't remember which size I bought but 1-3 inch is ringing a bell.. You can get them online. I purchased mine on e-bay Good Luck!
What a lucky person I am to have Mike in my personal college of Wise Masters (with the likes of Tom Perazzo -for my 356 C and KAV 911 for engine work). Sure, I still need gazillions of tools, paints and fluids but I lose my fear as I watch guys like Mike blaze the trail for us! Great stuff! Stay happy and healthy, Mike!
Hello Andreas Thank you Yes modern times have made it possible to take advantage of some experienced people. You can feel confident someone out there has a solution to what ever you are working on! You too keep safe and healthy!
Hey Mike quick question. I have original 1968 sway bar drop links they are 22 cm in length but one is bent . The replacements that I can find are 25 cm . Should I use the new 25 cm ones or try to bend the original 22cm back. Thanks for your knowledge
Wow ! Just found your restoration after searching zinc plating. I have to say , this is top level home restorer stuff and must be among the best I've seen. The bad news ? I have to seriously up my game on my own project....
Hi Brian Thanks and welcome to the channel Its definitely possible to do almost anything in a home environment Good luck with your project and the zinc plating!
Mike I am Javier from Mexico City I’m restoring a 1972 911 , Your videos are super helpful , is incredible the level of the detail in your videos and your work , do you have a web page to follow your job and have a better knowledge of your restoration projects, and where to find all the original replacement?
Hello Javier thanks I’m glad they are helpful. I don’t have a web page but do have an Instagram link at the top of our TH-cam channel. Wishing you the best of luck with your restoration!
Excellent Mike, as usual! It seems strange though that you had to drill those holes to attach the tie-rod bolt. At the factory would the steering rack have been pre-assembled with the tie-rods before being installed in the car? Did you consider trying that, or not a possibility?
Hi John, Thanks=) Yes They surely assembled the steering rack and tie rod arms before mounting to the crossmember.. although no mention that I could find in the manual. I could have done the same thing if I had removed both cross member struts and brought in the unit from the bottom rather than thru the passage way. I actually had them mounted to the rack but couldn't get the rack in with them on so I took them off..Hind sight I should have pulled both struts and put it in complete that way. An over sight on my part! Next car will be smoother=) When building cars always one step forward and two steps back!=)
Really nice video, great sound too. Really appreciate you doing this, will be super helpful for my targa this winter! Any suggestions on a place to get the hardware cad plated, if I prefer not to do it myself?
Thanks Its good to hear the sound is improving...I struggled with that for a long time I don't have and recommendations for CAD plating but maybe some of the guys could share with us anything positive? Anyone have some good recomendations?
Excellent video Mike! Is there a reason why you didn’t fill the strut with some oil first, before putting the insert in it? Did you consider taking the vintage Koni colour (more orange) instead of the more recent colour?
Thanks MrAdore The original Boge inserts had slits in the bottom to draw the fluid in and out from the casing filled with fluid. The Koni's are a sealed damper cartridge using the housing to hold it in place if that makes sense..? Koni's more of a modern damper design..Good question! As for the color was just matching up rear shocks with the front but thats a great idea!
Any Advice on Finding the Dust Boots and Tie Rod Dust boots for this car? Thank you in Advance. Putting together 66 912. your Videos are the best and are beyond helpful.
Hello Tember Thanks Steering boots are available from most of the major parts suppliers or direct from Porsche. The tie rod boots im not sure.. usually they come installed with new replacement tie rods fill with grease. Not sure where to source them independently
Super nice Video! Also like all the other clips of this restoration process! But, for a little detail i want to ask for is the damper cartdrige: Did Porsche not recommend to fill the tube with oil and than stick the damper in? Back in my old days on BMW, we allways do it like this! The reason why we did it, is to transfer the heat of the damper. When you drive the damper produce a huge ammount of heat, cause thats his intended job: To convert the overswing energy into heat. And if the damper could transfer this heat easily to the cartridge, he could get much older! But, i did not know if Porsche recommend that... In any case, i wish you all the luck for the rest of youre restauration and much pleasure by driving this supernice car! Many greetings from Germany
Hello Michael Greetings from USA! Yes you are correct on oil filling the strut chambers. The newer Koni replacement cartridges featured here are a sealed units working much like a basic shock absorber. The Koni design is to replace the original with a maintenance free damper. The original strut cartridges removed from the car were oil exchange units. There was several weep holes in the bottoms of them to flow and circulate oil as they were in motion. They would draw in the oil as they stretched out and push out the oil as they compressed
Hi Mike, I am in the process of changing my front struts inserts and also using Koni's like you - I don't see on the video that you put the 50ml of coolant that is requested by Koni in their instructions, or maybe you did not show it. If you did, what type of coolant did you use? I have seen on some forum using fork oil. Thanks, Matt
Hello Matlecomte What year and model is your Porsche..also was your original equipment BOGE or Koni? Some applications are different depending on the year.. There was no literature included in my install instructions from Koni mentioning any coolant for my specific application I will check into it!
@@MikesRestorations - Hi I have Boge original equipment and my car is a 66 produced november 65. the instruction with the struts (same as yours) include a step to fill the bottom of the struts with 50ml of oil or coolant. I have scanned the instruction sheet and happy to share with you.
Bryceg im not sure the details on your question exactly but taking a guess.. The rubber boot stretches and pulls over the stud with the assistance of grease. It secures in the ball socket end via a retaining clip. If you buy a new replacement arm assembly everything it intact and ready to install on the car. I hope this helps Cheers!
@MikesRestorations thanks for the response. The new lower ball joints come with the dust cover on them but the lower housing of the strut with the arm for the tie rod has a lip that forms part of the new joint. I tried every way to pop the rubber onto that lip and it kept on ending up below. I ended up removing the seal from the joint and using a section of pvc to press the seal over the lever housing before then assembling the ball end and tapped the seal back down. But maybe my seals are small
Really good detail, thank you!
Thank you David
I hope it was helpful
Cheers!
Quality instructional video, thanks for putting up cheers john.
Thank you John
Im glad you enjoyed it
Cheers!
Mike, excellent video, thank you once again!!!
You're welcome Brian
I hope might be of useful someday!
@@MikesRestorations The tool you used to torque down the flange on the strut to housing to 95 ft pounds, where did you get that two prong unit at?
Hello Brian
That is called a adjustable gland nut wrench..I don't remember which size I bought but 1-3 inch is ringing a bell..
You can get them online. I purchased mine on e-bay
Good Luck!
Meticulous work Mike. I really enjoyed the video.
Thanks Brett
Finally starting to look like a real car again=)
What a lucky person I am to have Mike in my personal college of Wise Masters (with the likes of Tom Perazzo -for my 356 C and KAV 911 for engine work). Sure, I still need gazillions of tools, paints and fluids but I lose my fear as I watch guys like Mike blaze the trail for us! Great stuff! Stay happy and healthy, Mike!
Hello Andreas Thank you
Yes modern times have made it possible to take advantage of some experienced people.
You can feel confident someone out there has a solution to what ever you are working on!
You too keep safe and healthy!
When all the videos are finished, I'm going to binge watch them all!
Hi Gregg
Haha!! I am very flattered.. I think that would require more patience than actually building the car=)
And again some satisfying work! Good to see it all going back together.
Thanks Feeesh..Its feeling better looking at it now=)
Great video Mike, car looks amazing, and great attention to detail as usual!
Thanks Matlecomte..shes getting there little by little!
Great video Mike! I will be tearing into my front suspension over the winter hopefully!
Thanks Kav
Good luck on the suspension!
Awesome restoration. Your attention to detail is unparalleled. Hope the next video is soon. Can’t wait to see the engine.
Thanks Ron
New video available later today!
Super helpful for my sway bar install Thanks for these great videos
Hello Eric
Im glad it was helpful. Thanks for the feed back!
Cheers!
Hey Mike quick question. I have original 1968 sway bar drop links they are 22 cm in length but one is bent . The replacements that I can find are 25 cm . Should I use the new 25 cm ones or try to bend the original 22cm back. Thanks for your knowledge
Mike, these videos are awesome. You really cover so much detail and it’s so helpful as a maintenance reference too. Thanks so much.
Hello Robert
You're welcome=) I hope they will be useful in your restoration work
Awesome Mike! Hanging out for the next one.
Thanks Gary
You are very devoted! next one in the works=)
@@MikesRestorations At some point I want to refresh my suspension so your videos are just awesome.
I really enjoyed this 45th episode of your project. It is sooo much better than both Seinfeldt and Cheers! Can't wait until the next one.
Thanks Anders
Jerry much funnier than me=) I wish he would let us look at his collection!
Keep up the good work, love to watch your videos
Thanks Troels
Plowing thru it little by little=)
Thanks for always tuning in!
Nice job as usual and thanks for marking out on the Konis. It makes it easier to understand. I'm just not sure of the "2 half turns" though. lol
Thanks Jeff..Ha yes 2 half turns from 0 straight from Koni=)
Its sounded so funny I though might as well go with it
Wow ! Just found your restoration after searching zinc plating. I have to say , this is top level home restorer stuff and must be among the best I've seen. The bad news ? I have to seriously up my game on my own project....
Hi Brian
Thanks and welcome to the channel
Its definitely possible to do almost anything in a home environment
Good luck with your project and the zinc plating!
Looks great, Mike! Soon you'll have all 4 wheels mounted and the car sitting on them!
Thanks! Yes we are very close to a rolling chassis!=)
To auto w Twoich rękach to dzieło sztuki !
Thank you
Cheers!
Great looking parts😀. Coming together very nicely 👍
Thanks Garage time
Do you have a name? your work with metal is awesome thanks for sharing your expertise!
Mike I am Javier from Mexico City I’m restoring a 1972 911 , Your videos are super helpful , is incredible the level of the detail in your videos and your work , do you have a web page to follow your job and have a better knowledge of your restoration projects, and where to find all the original replacement?
Hello Javier thanks
I’m glad they are helpful. I don’t have a web page but do have an Instagram link at the top of our TH-cam channel. Wishing you the best of luck with your restoration!
Excellent Mike, as usual! It seems strange though that you had to drill those holes to attach the tie-rod bolt. At the factory would the steering rack have been pre-assembled with the tie-rods before being installed in the car? Did you consider trying that, or not a possibility?
Hi John, Thanks=)
Yes They surely assembled the steering rack and tie rod arms before mounting to the crossmember.. although no mention that I could find in the manual.
I could have done the same thing if I had removed both cross member struts
and brought in the unit from the bottom rather than thru the passage way.
I actually had them mounted to the rack but couldn't get the rack in with them on so I took them off..Hind sight I should have pulled both struts and put it in complete that way. An over sight on my part!
Next car will be smoother=)
When building cars always one step forward and two steps back!=)
clean job! love it
Really nice video, great sound too. Really appreciate you doing this, will be super helpful for my targa this winter!
Any suggestions on a place to get the hardware cad plated, if I prefer not to do it myself?
Thanks
Its good to hear the sound is improving...I struggled with that for a long time
I don't have and recommendations for CAD plating but maybe some of the guys could share with us anything positive? Anyone have some good recomendations?
Are those oem control arms or something beefier
Excellent video Mike! Is there a reason why you didn’t fill the strut with some oil first, before putting the insert in it? Did you consider taking the vintage Koni colour (more orange) instead of the more recent colour?
Thanks MrAdore
The original Boge inserts had slits in the bottom to draw the fluid in and out from the casing filled with fluid. The Koni's are a sealed damper cartridge using the housing to hold it in place if that makes sense..? Koni's more of a modern damper design..Good question!
As for the color was just matching up rear shocks with the front but thats a great idea!
Any Advice on Finding the Dust Boots and Tie Rod Dust boots for this car?
Thank you in Advance. Putting together 66 912. your Videos are the best and are beyond helpful.
Hello Tember Thanks
Steering boots are available from most of the major parts suppliers or direct from Porsche.
The tie rod boots im not sure.. usually they come installed with new replacement tie rods fill with grease.
Not sure where to source them independently
Why didn't you use the upgraded turbo tie rods instead of drilling an additional hole?
Super nice Video! Also like all the other clips of this restoration process!
But, for a little detail i want to ask for is the damper cartdrige: Did Porsche not recommend to fill the tube with oil and than stick the damper in?
Back in my old days on BMW, we allways do it like this! The reason why we did it, is to transfer the heat of the damper. When you drive the damper produce a huge ammount of heat, cause thats his intended job: To convert the overswing energy into heat.
And if the damper could transfer this heat easily to the cartridge, he could get much older! But, i did not know if Porsche recommend that...
In any case, i wish you all the luck for the rest of youre restauration and much pleasure by driving this supernice car!
Many greetings from Germany
Hello Michael
Greetings from USA!
Yes you are correct on oil filling the strut chambers.
The newer Koni replacement cartridges featured here are a sealed units
working much like a basic shock absorber. The Koni design is to replace the original with a maintenance free damper.
The original strut cartridges removed from the car were oil exchange units.
There was several weep holes in the bottoms of them to flow and circulate oil as they were in motion. They would draw in the oil as they stretched out and push out the oil as they compressed
Hi Mike, I am in the process of changing my front struts inserts and also using Koni's like you - I don't see on the video that you put the 50ml of coolant that is requested by Koni in their instructions, or maybe you did not show it. If you did, what type of coolant did you use? I have seen on some forum using fork oil. Thanks, Matt
Hello Matlecomte
What year and model is your Porsche..also was your original equipment BOGE or Koni?
Some applications are different depending on the year..
There was no literature included in my install instructions from Koni mentioning any coolant for my specific application
I will check into it!
@@MikesRestorations - Hi I have Boge original equipment and my car is a 66 produced november 65. the instruction with the struts (same as yours) include a step to fill the bottom of the struts with 50ml of oil or coolant. I have scanned the instruction sheet and happy to share with you.
Hello Matlecomte can you please send to mikemuskcabinets@gmail.com
Thank you! I will check it out and be giving koni a call
Great work loving the colours. Can you tell me the colour code of your car.
Thank you=) color is Slate Gray 6601
But how do you get the rubber boot up on the lower ball joint stud???
Bryceg im not sure the details on your question exactly but taking a guess.. The rubber boot stretches and pulls over the stud with the assistance of grease.
It secures in the ball socket end via a retaining clip. If you buy a new replacement arm assembly everything it intact and ready to install on the car.
I hope this helps
Cheers!
@MikesRestorations thanks for the response. The new lower ball joints come with the dust cover on them but the lower housing of the strut with the arm for the tie rod has a lip that forms part of the new joint. I tried every way to pop the rubber onto that lip and it kept on ending up below. I ended up removing the seal from the joint and using a section of pvc to press the seal over the lever housing before then assembling the ball end and tapped the seal back down. But maybe my seals are small
👍🏻
Tom