First look raptor 1k primer | The new Motip spray putty | Fills in pla lines fast! RTU aerosol upol
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 พ.ค. 2023
- Well there you have it, finally something like motip spray putty.....only better!
A great ready to use aerosol that you can get locally or online at @AutoZone that gives great results & doesn't break the bank!
I'd like to thank @MichaelBaddeley for his resources & use of @MOTIP_eu products on his patreon page.
It's a great network page & gave me motivation to find a product & create new methods for all the US based builders!
For all you droid enthusiasts make sure to check him out!
If you liked the video don't forget to give me a thumbs up & if you like what your seeing be sure to subscribe as I’ll be having giveaways & more on my 10k subscriber live stream!
Also be sure to check out my merch store & membership patreon offers, ill be rolling out exclusive posts, live streams & videos for members only!
Links for all products used & recommended are down below, of course if you have any questions drop me a comment & be sure to tag me on social media & let me know how those projects are coming!
More stuff to do, so little time, so until next time....DW out!
Product links & discord
Raptor 1k primer
www.autozone.com/paint-and-bo...
Upol filler primer
www.autozone.com/paint-and-bo...
Portable spray shelter
amzn.to/3LZju65
3M respirator/ eyewear
amzn.to/3B0DZJx
amzn.to/3NPsTOX
Soldering iron for prepping prints
amzn.to/42BCXiR
Palm sander
amzn.to/3VH7vx9
Prep all wax/grease remover
amzn.to/42HjWvv
Discord link
/ discord
I found my new go-to product. Thank you so much. Saved me so much time
Make sure to check out the online/email coupons through autozone. You can get 20-25% off and bogo 50% off at those desks your getting these for $12 which is an amazing price.
Literally the day after you released this video Raptor appeared in my O'relies. Going to finally use it today!
Boom!
You have the best reviews/turorials on finishing 3d prints. Great range of chemicals and tools, the how-tos, tips and evaluations. Thank you!
Comments like these are why I make the videos, thanks!
Wow...glad you back love to watch you nd gotta know some tips & tricks,,, this product will be helpful ❤️ thank you for this
Thank you for the tip!
I'll definitely try this out. Looks very promising.
I just got my first FDM printer and stumbled across the channel and your video are awesome. Super helpful showing all the different steps and products its really answered a ton of questions I had. The cherry on top is using Seether as background music :) love it!
The music keeps people coming back 🎵 great to have you here!
Heck yeah! I'm checking out now. Thx DWD
Thank you for posting this. I am new to finishing 3D prints and was looking for something I could do to hide the layer lines on a print that is a gift for my niece. This worked great and I am really happy with the results. Your videos have been super helpful.
Thanks for the follow up, so glad this helped it’s really a fantastic product!
Holy crap you are killing my wallat....LOL....love all these products you have been trying, keep up the great work
Thanks man! When you find the right product it’ll actually save you money lol
Oh boy a new adventure to try. Weve not gotten this in at Oriellys yet, gonna check online see if we can get it and give it a try.
I’m sure you can order it, it wasn’t on the website though
Great video! Might have to find this new stuff.
You won’t be disappointed, this is very appealing to people who want a simple solution without mixing or messing with acetone or puttys.
Hmmmm... I am going to do a Batman Vs Superman Armor cuz it is a simple design. Easy way to get a bit more experience. This will be applicable. Great share!
Thanks!
I picked up a can of upol yesterday and I'm really liking it! Couldn't find the Bondo version anywhere. Thanks for the tips and brand suggestions. Definitely helped me up my game and save a lot of time with post processing. Making a Halo assault rifle currently. 😎👉👉
The upol filler primer in neck & neck with Bondo you’ll be in great shape using that
Currently using Upol Dolphin 0714 with their Rapid 2K primer. You can spray the primer with an LPH-80 with the 1.2mm or brush it on with a reducer added. Self levels. That Anesta Iwata gun will run with a 2.1CFM compressor.
Those are great products with the right set up. For most builders probably not a viable option but insane result nonetheless im sure.
@@Darkwingdad let me suggest a topic for a future video or series of videos...techniques for fixing serious or more significant defects in prints. Showing how to rescue prints that failed and had to resume printing, sectioned prints, big gaps and messed up bridging. By this point anyone should be able to address typical layer smoothing with filler, filler primers, 2k's, high build polyester fillers, and even UV resin (and yes I do use UV resin at times). It's the bigger serious defects that could use techniques and attention. Loyal watcher of your channel sir.
@@robertfousch2703 I do have how to fix a failed print done but could definitely do a video on the difference of other fillers. I appreciate the input!
As you know I use my spray gun primarily, but this looks like a good combo for small quick parts.
As soon as I sprayed it I thought of you lol it’s a nice simple option. Hopefully people will adapt and get away from relying on filler primer only that has been so terrible etched in many heads as “the right way”
Man I remember looking for motip years ago but it was just impossible to get and when I could find it it was super expensive! Thank you for this This is a game changer!
It’ll definitely help a lot of people, a 1 & done product that works!
@@Darkwingdad I have a HVLP set up and use feather fill, works great but it can be a pain to setup/clean up. I also use the UPOL fantastic putty brush on method. Looking forward to this when I don't want to do all the extra steps for the other methods!
@@AtlisTitan I am a slick sand user personally. Had to upgrade to a 2.5mm tip, love the results, hate the clean up lol plus the price of a gallon is more than double pre Covid.
raptor actually makes a spray bed liner that you can tint and its very popular here in texas for spraying the entire body of trucks and jeeps and such.
Raptor liner….super popular with trucks. Crazy to see them make this but no surprise it’s solid!
Video was well done and to the point. Microphone sounds a bit muted, but still sounds better than most content creators. Liked and subscribed.
I turn the volume down on the commenting to like 67% maybe I’ll try 80-85. Thanks for letting me know
This is Fantastic! Definitely using this on my iron man suit!
Let’s goooo!
Headed to AutoZone! Thanks!
Nicccce!
I like how you're on that perg
I prefer pla+ petg sucks to sand
@@Darkwingdad I don't know why everytime I tried using PLA it never works that's why I titled a vid I hate pla and it hates me😆
darkwing dad hi love your work ,am about to start my 3d printing adventure and want to do full builds like u is pla plus good and what brand do u use and whats a good price point thanks and again love your work
Thanks for being here
Sunlu pla is a great pla to start with amzn.to/3nv1PtO
Overture & ziro is also fantastic!
Hey great video! I’m currently working on an iron man helmet and its my first time finishing something 3d printed. I saw your video about the upol putty mixing with acetone and was thinking about using that to smooth out the layer lines, but after seeing this I am not sure which method to use. I am assuming there are more specialized use cases for each but which would you recommend for a newbie. Thanks!!
The thinning with acetone & 1k putty is amazing and ultimately a tube will last longer. The putty/acetone does dry & cure faster too. Ultimately this raptor can be used by anyone but for someone who doesn’t have a lot of work space it’s probably more beneficial. Me personally I like the 1k putty & acetone I feel you have more control of how thick or thin you want it. But for the price on them why not try both! Lol
@@Darkwingdad awesome thank you!!
@@keshavlalchandani anytime my friend!
I love slick sand, but it’s a pain to mix and clean up the gun for small things like 3D prints (great for car body panels). Hopefully this is almost as good, because it would be awesome to have an aerosol version.
I agree it’s just so much to clean up, this is a fantastic alternative.
Is that prep all any good dude ? Ty for your vids and time
I like it a lot, better than IPA. I clean my parts with it before paint & clear as well
@@Darkwingdad ty I appreciate that
I'll definitely try it out too. How do you think this stuff would work across seams when piecing together a helmet from using a smaller 3D printer?
Considering it’s more of a filler it will do a lot better at leveling & filling things in
@Darkwing dad Think it's still best to start with plastic metal first though? I'd be afraid of shrinking and those dreaded seam lines.
@@603VIL I’d still do metal on seams yes but the rest of the helmet this will be fine
Since youve recently added a bunch of fillers and sprays you shoukd do a video where you rank everything.
I plan on doing an updated filler primer video too, a lot of new products have come out in the last year. Believe it or not, I haven’t even done videos on all the stuff I’ve tried lol
@@Darkwingdad sounds good looking forward to it. Love all the content.
@@tonydaughtry9194 thanks man!
So could you put the Raptor primer down and then follow up with Bondo filler primer? I love all the new (to me) options you are testing out for us...
100% this raptor primer is great but I think for people who don’t want to commit to compressors, acetone use (even though there’s acetone on the raptor) or people who just want to keep it simple & still save time in post processing yes.
For a 1-2 punch raptor + upol/bondo filler primer you will kill it!
@@Darkwingdad Do you have a link to your spray tent? I see you have just a box fan and a a/c filter on it. what about recommendations on a respirator. Never used anything but basic spray paints, always outdoors, so never thought to get any ppe
@@chrislee4667 if you scroll down in the description I dropped links for everything I use & recommend :)
Would you still use the acetone/brush method anymore? Or is this the defacto for you now? Thanks for all the information and tips. Doing wonderful work!
I prefer the dolphin 1k brush method with bondo filler primer. More control imo, this stuff is nice & perhaps simpler but if you know me I don’t rush my projects. Now maybe on something that doesnt have a lot of definition I might use this but I’m certainly not giving up my dolphin putty/acetone for this
@@Darkwingdad Fantastic, I was thinking the same thing. Seems more controlled and can work at a slower pace. My kid is starting to get into finishing props and the brush method seems to be better for a beginner. Appreciate the reply and subbed/liked. Love the content and have been learning like crazy.
@@briandoiron8438 it really comes down to what works best for you. Some people don’t like the putty/acetone because they are scared of acetone. Newsflash-all paints contain acetone or lacquer, ppe should be warn regardless. I think the brush method is more controlled. I did a video showing my kids doing there 3D prints and it was difficult for my 8 year old to grasp spraying. But brushing & weathering he did great. Any of the products I show I have & still use, so either way you can’t lose!
Another question: it seems to me that you prefer to paint the thick putty compounds (Bondo glazing & spot 907, Upol Dolphin 1K, Motip spray putty…) with a traditional brush directly on your 3D-printed parts, instead of thinning these products more with acetone for spray-painting instead? What is the benefit of this technique over the airbrush which I think gives a more even coating and no risk of brush marks at all?
They are all thinned down. Spraying is definitely a huge game changer, i just have very little time these days for set up & clean up. I spray when I can but i also like to show people different methods still work when they can’t commit to certain tools etc.
@@Darkwingdad understood :)
Upol's not here in Mexico, but hopefully AutoZone brings it some time soon
Which option would you day is better between this and the dolphin putty/acetone method, without taking into account budget and space?
PS: I bit the bullet and bought the liquitex flexible modeling paste and y dries nicely (it says "flexible", but I guess such a thin coat isn't) am applying it through my airbrush, but you REALLY need to thin it down (so a 16oz tub will go a log way)
I personally like using upol 1k thinned down. You can’t beat how fast it dries & you can control where you need to build it up.
This raptor product is great, I’m sure I could use it if need be. But as long as I can used upol 1k putty & either there filler primer or bondo filler primer that’s my go to process.
This product is more appealing to smaller projects, weekend warriors,people building man cave decor that don’t want to commit to a workshop filled with breaking bad volume 2 lol
I really hate I can’t find a product everyone everywhere can use
@@Darkwingdad at least there's the liquitex modeling paste (aside from the bondo glazing putty, but talcum/shrinking), the bad thing is it dries almost transparent (I tried adding a couple of acrilic paint drops, but is still is transparent and gunks up a little bit on the sandpaper) so ot can be a bit tricky to know it the lines or gouges are well covered and if you're nor carefull you knock the whole thing down (even the one covering dips)
Funny thing: even though AutoZone down here has the Bondo glazing putty, they don't carry the filler primer (I use duplicolor)
As of today, among all what you've tested like airbrushing Bondo, various primer aerosols, this Raptor or Motip spray putty, etc.: What would you recommend now to someone just starting?
I love the upol 1k brushed on with Bondo filler primer to finish You just have so much control, it dries so fast & it sands so easy but still fills in. This product is great, not for everyone but applicable to tons. My main goal in all of these tests is to give people options & encourage them to find what works best for your situation.
@@Darkwingdad Thanks. However I live in the EU and while I can source Upol or chose Motip spray putty instead (which I think is good too), Bondo products are unavailable and very expensive to import here. Would you recommend an equivalent to Bondo filler primer? For example I see that besides their praised spray putty, Motip also sells a primer (M04056), a plastic primer (MT 04063) as well as a filler (MT 04064)… and I'm a bit lost with all the refs and possibilities :/ Which one to choose (if you know them)?
Motip is a good product, have you checked to see if any upol primers are available?
@@Darkwingdad Nope they are not :(
One thing I didn't get exactly yet: For perfect smooth prints before painting or electroplating, we need to work with both a good spray putty and a good filler primer (and sanding between these steps), right? Or can we choose either a spray putty vs a filler primer and stick with only one product?
@@fluxcapacitor you can use sandable primer too if you have a good spray putty
Damn that's a hell of a filler!
It is friggin solid!
What is wrong with these manufacturers? The products you can get in the States are never available in Europe, and vice versa. Guess I'll have to stick with the Motip spray putty, although I'm about to try the Dolphin putty/acetone combo in a HVLP gun.
It’s very frustrating, you can try to contact upol directly they do have a Facebook page for UK & EU & see if this is available. This raptor series is made by upol so there’s a chance.
Some polyester spray on filler primers are a hybrid DTM (Direct to Metal), but generally all Polyesters are porous! so how can this be also a Sealer? I would NOT trust this as a sealer!!!, i would HIGHLY recommend spraying a flexible primer surfacer/sealer over this just to be sure it will stand the longevity of time... Without a Doubt!
is it AQUARIUM SAFE ?
Not sure, once cured a resin should be…
You kept mentioning PLA lines but the helmet was printed in PETG LOL, you usually call them layer lines like everyone else, I guess you were so stoked with this product it threw you!
Lol I didn’t even catch that, you win! 😂 I typically print in pla+ so it’s just habit I guess
Am I the only one with no audio?
Yep lol
@@Darkwingdad damn ..
Cool, it's working that was weird
****Sigh**** None of the products your are discovering and talking about are here in Canada, at least that I can find. I guess we are not good enough . . . ****Sigh****😩
I am part French Canadian, I love Ontario, so this is not my doing I swear. What supply stores are near you? What part of Canada?
@@Darkwingdad Where are your relatives from? Part of my family was initially from southern Quebec.
As to not your doing, that's a given. For some reason, there are all sorts of cool products that I see that are simply not available in Canada. I guess we just smell bad, or something.
BTW, I live in Alberta. I did some snooping around in the Googles, but nothing seemed to come up for Upol stuff, could be faulty Googling.
@@lcarterc I have family up in seault st, Marie. I actually played jr hockey there & spent my summers on hockey camps in Brampton,Scarborough & Windsor. If it wasn’t so cold I’d move there. I have dual citizenship & thinking about taking the kids to the Toronto zoo & HHOF this summer. Good weekend eh?
@@Darkwingdad I have family down around the Lake-head (Hamilton, etc.) and spent some of my youth in and around Ontario. For me, it was quite hot in the summer. I don't think I have ever been to the HHoF. Just another one of those things that I need to get to. The Zoo is a definite must. It was the home of one of Canada's national party leaders.
Cheers and good weekend to you too.
@@lcarterc well when I get to north if the border I’ll let you know! One in a million photo op. I’ll even wear a Nordiques jersey lol