Hey man, just wanted to say thanks SO MUCH for this video. I’d never even thought about buffing or polishing my prints until I saw this, but I’m so glad you taught me how. I followed the video to a T, and the surface of my print was unlike anything I’d ever made before!!! It was incredible. Unfortunately… I think I may have gotten a bad batch of Duralumen… When I sprayed it on, it was cloudy and completely matte. I tried it with different airbrushes and everything… I was devastated tbh. Your video helped make the surface so smooth and so clean, and the Duralumen ruined it. But, I was determined to make it work. I basically repainted with quite a few heavy black coats followed by a few heavy clear. I then sanded at 1500 and followed the video from there! Instead of Duralumen, I used Graphite powder. And because the surface was sooooo smooth, it turned out amazing. Thank you again for such an in-depth guide!!
A big wives tale is wetsanding. It should only be done lightly if your filler primer comes out a little chunky and on clear coat. I see people wasting time wetsanding every layer even pla. Glad this tutorial helped you, if more people did it there prints would be THAT much better. Glad you seen the results first hand, I appreciate the support & kind words!
@Darkwingdad started printing 3 months ago,and finally learned my best settings,before that alot of bad layer line work and hard to post process.since your videos using your methods I made a helldivers,mando,miles morales,warlock helmet from Destiny 2 and currently working on legend of the white dragon(alot of Sharp edges). The methods of spray bondo glazing putty,etching primer and wet sanding/buffing the clear have been the big difference in subpar/average work and amazing work.I haven't seen many content creators if any that take the extra steps like you,amd that makes the big difference
Another great video DWD. I do have a question about the duralumen. Does it turn into silver paint if you put on too many coats like Alclad Chrome does? I have had much trouble with alclad and getting an even coat without it just turning into a silver metallic finish. I am printing an R2 and need to finish the dome and purchased Duralumen, but I have been putting off painting it given my sordid history with Alclade chrome.
@@Darkwingdad Thanks for quick update! I am going to use the SprayMax 2K clear on the dome over the Duralumen and I will update this thread with the results. I have used the 2K before and it is awesome so crossing my fingers it doesn't dull the Duralumen too much.
Absolutely awesome! I've been waiting for this one. I'll be sure to use these techniques with the Tuff version of the Duralumen when embark on the full Mando suit. Thanks so much man. 🙏
I finally got my R2 Dome painted with Duralumen and then used the 2K Clear from Spraymax over it. I must say it came out really nice and at least for the 2K, it did not appear to affect the Duralumen at all. I do recommend using a small automotive HVLP gun when doing the Duralumen over a large object. It was very difficult to get an even looking finish with the airbrush and I do have some light and darker streaks, but R2 shouldn't look perfect anyway. The duralumen is much easier to use than Alclad chrome and doesn't turn into silver looking paint if you put on a 2nd or 3rd coat. My old trusty hvlp gun was not in working condition and i didn't want to buy a new one since I don't paint cars anymore. The plastic cup had actually disintegrated and fell off on the floor when I pulled it out of the cabinet. :) Thanks again for doing this video it inspired me to go for it and not look back.
As long as duralumen is put on baby enough to a chrome like color 2k will always work on top! Glad r2 is looking good, I’m working on a welding prep video for the droid community.
Awesome video! Thank you for sharing and taking the time to work through your process. Do you have a recommendation for primer and 1k or 2k clears for an airbrush?
Thanks found out the chrome stuff doesn't deliver to u.k lol just my luck still graet vid and I hope you had a great time at disney did you go Paris? Wish I could take my kids to the amarican one the original lol
Awesome video! Though I have to disagree on the hand polishing. I do it for all my props, hell I even did it on the guitar I built and it always comes out great. Like a mirror. As long as you have a good quality microfiber polishing cloth, you'll be good.
Respectfully speaking, hold an led light up to it, you’ll have tons of swirls in the finish from the pressure your applying. There’s a HUGE difference between gloss a finish. You can get things glossy but still have scratches. Scratches & swirls refract light instead of reflecting them. So your finish & shine won’t have as much pop as it could be. Just try it one time you’ll see the difference. There’s reasons why technicians who work on cars, chrome & even acrylic fish tanks use machines & not by hand. One is time….two is the quality.
Great video! Any thoughts on using a drill for polishing vs buying a cheap polisher? I was thinking about getting a cheap polisher to use for 3d prints and maybe my car, but wondering if buying an adaptor for my drill would be better.
I have used both, it’s simply preference & budget. Keep in mind the drill is more agressive & will cut more bc it’s rotary where as a polisher is free spinning. I personally would never use the drill adapter on a car other than headlights maybe.
Hi 👋 Great TH-cam channel. I come from a vehicle body refinishing background, try some detergent/dishsoap in your water (possibly warm if you can) for wet sanding. It will glide well.
I mentioned Johnson & Johnson baby shampoo in the video…I come from an autobody background too lol dawn dish soap can actually create solvent pop in uncured clear due to its acidity.
Instead of the wax/grease remover can you lightly use isopropyl alcohol or would that strip down some clear coat and paint? Definitely going to check out some of that duralumen when I run out of my usual Alclad-107
Quick question. The link you have in description for 1k clear goes to spraymax product and not the duplicolor extreme. Which did you find works best? Thanks.
amzn.to/3qZSMlR here’s duplicolor. I noticed the duplicolor last longer. I used spray max in the past & although it doesn’t have the activator button after sitting for 2 weeks the nozzle clogged & i wasn’t able to use it. So although spray max is cheaper duplicolor lasts longer.
@@Darkwingdad Thanks for the quick response. I usually use Alclad gloss black for base, then Alclad II chrome followed by sealing with spraymax 2k for my Mando cosplay. Works well but wanted to find alternative where i can speed up time using rattle can for some parts. I am hoping even though this will introduce having to buff clearcoat before I spray chrome, it will still reduce the time it took on my alclad.
@@chrisgilreath2821 I haven’t used alcad yet but try using a flat or matte base followed by 2k. A lot less orange peel. I’ll be doing another video with duralumen tuff & with 2k clear
@@Darkwingdad Looking forward to when you compare duralumen with alclad chrome! My issue with 2k is that unless you use the whole can, its wasted due to cure time. Sometimes I am just building a Mando helmet and dont need an entire can, but it gets wasted.
@@chrisgilreath2821 yea the 2k you can put it in the fridge and get a little longer shelf life but that’s why I spray with hvlp it’s cheaper & obviously the activator K resin are seperate so “no” shelf like unless mixed
This may sound like a silly question, but would 16-54 Seymour Stainless-Steel Specialty Coating work? Like would it be safe to use after priming and even polish?
@@Darkwingdad Yeah, I keep trying to post it but TH-cam keeps taking it down. I’ll try again down below as a separate comment. It’s also on amazon under the same name.
Love your videos! I do have a question: We shouldn't use Dawn Dish Soap once the clearcoat is on; does it matter what soap we use to wash the primer/pla/filler dust off in the early stages? i.e. I used dawn dish soap to scrub my armor, am I ruining the primer or weakening paint adhesion?
It can, I never use water to wash/clean my pieces. Much better to use a prep solvent like alcohol,naptha or prep all bc they will evaporate so fast. If water is not fully removed from the surface it will definitely cause issues.
Check out Car-Rep 2k clear. It has a humidity activated catalyst in it, so it's shelf stable and premixed from the factory. No more popping the activator on the bottom and wasting any leftover clear.
@Darkwing dad for those that don't have access to a compressor, it's pretty awesome. I found that it's not quite as hard, once cured, as a traditional automotive 2K clear, but it is miles ahead of any 1K I've tried. I've used it on props, a scooter restoration, and a guitar build with excellent results and zero complaints.
@@MRgrimlock84 I definitely see why people use it. Even in a rattle can it lays & shrinks so much less. I haven’t used rattle can clear in almost 2 years & it’s just so hard to get a good spray & lay. I just hate how the 2k with the activator don’t last long.
One thing I struggled with was shiny/chrome paint not really liking other paints on top which is I guess good and bad. For instance I made a Mandalorian helmet where the base coat was chrome and I used a latex gel on top. Painted over with grey and with some rubbing I had some controlled wear and tear on the helmet. Now I wanted a third layer at the cheeks, and in some small grooves using blue - unfortunately when I masked them off, while it worked, all the grey paint under pulled off exposing the chrome again, which later I just used masking tape to just make the chrome exposed and forwent having multiple paint layers showing wear. At the end of the day it did help texture the helmet the way I envisioned, however it still kind of blew that the paint peeled like that. How does this handle other paints on top of it and masking them off to get more detail?
www.etsy.com/listing/912121507/duralumen-chrome-paint-4oz?click_key=22a9c11ec672c7ba7d22b2ed710c41d8428ae2ab%3A912121507&click_sum=8541d09c&ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=the+digital+armory&ref=sr_gallery-1-2&organic_search_click=1&bes=1&sts=1&content_source=bcbffc203d174d736ac59930274f4fe0154057e4%253A912121507 there ya go!
I’m curious as to what pressure you are spraying the Duralumen at? I find it takes a lot more coats to get a reflective look / coverage than some other chrome paints. In the end it wasn’t a cost effective paint for me, unfortunately I probably won’t be buying it again.
since i am in the middle of remaking my mando armor i would absoletly love to know how far you can push this with a 2k clear and a hvlp since that will be the same process i will go through! Would you recommend a 0.8 nozzle HVLP or a 1.4 ? I have both on hand but I feel like 1.4 is such a overkill?
Which clear are you using? The 1k or standard acrylic? Standard acrylic 2-3 hours is fine. 1k we waited 24 hours before wetsanding so although 1k is a more volatile clear I would wait at least 4 hours if you’re not wetsanding it to be safe
I followed this method to a tee, everything was going perfectly, until I started applying the duralumen...now I see streaks everywhere? Any ideas on what I'd did wrong?
@@Darkwingdad I think I figured it out. I don't think I cleaned off the polishing compound off well enough before applying the duralumen. I sprayed a test piece with duralumen that just had 1k with no wet sand or buffing and it came out with no streaks or spotting. But I do have a follow up question with that, how do you know when You've gotten all the polishing compound off after buffing?
@@michiganmandos oils & residuals will definitely cause streaking. Also wear gloves & use a fresh towel. You can always run the piece under water, clean areas the water will sheet off the model. If there is oil it will build up almost in a pattern
@@Darkwingdad thank you so much that is hugely helpful! I definitely think that's what happened then. Time to wet sand and start over lol! I appreciate all you do and the replies!!!
Wetsanding your base coat won’t help much, understand when paint cures it shrinks, that’s when orange peel occurs. Higher humidity & inadequate temps will also contribute to orange peel. If you’re using rattle can you’ll get more orange peel as well. Cut/buff/polish your final layer of clear to to reduce it the most
I’m surprised you can use Rustoleum and then Krlyon on top. I’m guessing you live in a dry, warm climate with low humidity. In my climate, which is colder, wet and higher humidity, both paints will react very poorly. I’ve not had any issues with Duplicolor and Montana
Florida…. So hot & humid lol If you give paints proper time to cure anything can work. Problem is people wait 20-30 minutes & put coats on wayyyy to heavy and frying occurs. Guess that’s another video I’ll have to do & show lol
Dawn is alkaline - at least plain dawn is. I've never had issues adding it to my wet sanding to get mirror finish, but obviously that changes if you use like scented and other varieties.
Dawn ultra contains sulfuric acid, regular Dawn contains metasilicates which are found in heavy degreasers. Both will continue to attack the surface. Not good for incurred clear. Solvent pop won’t happen right away but months after treating the paint:
@@Darkwingdad Hmm think Cascade has meta-silicates but never used it so don't know how it impacts it, either way my prints from 10 years ago still look shiny and clean, if not a bit dusty.
You can reduce orange peel by using a large gravity feed spray gun and blast it super wet. Like the guys that paint cars use. Only $15-20 at harbor freight.
My God - this video was extremely informational and literally answered all my questions as I watched it - AMAZING
@@reelqueerreact thanks man!!!
Hey man, just wanted to say thanks SO MUCH for this video. I’d never even thought about buffing or polishing my prints until I saw this, but I’m so glad you taught me how. I followed the video to a T, and the surface of my print was unlike anything I’d ever made before!!! It was incredible.
Unfortunately… I think I may have gotten a bad batch of Duralumen… When I sprayed it on, it was cloudy and completely matte. I tried it with different airbrushes and everything… I was devastated tbh. Your video helped make the surface so smooth and so clean, and the Duralumen ruined it. But, I was determined to make it work. I basically repainted with quite a few heavy black coats followed by a few heavy clear. I then sanded at 1500 and followed the video from there! Instead of Duralumen, I used Graphite powder. And because the surface was sooooo smooth, it turned out amazing. Thank you again for such an in-depth guide!!
A big wives tale is wetsanding. It should only be done lightly if your filler primer comes out a little chunky and on clear coat. I see people wasting time wetsanding every layer even pla. Glad this tutorial helped you, if more people did it there prints would be THAT much better. Glad you seen the results first hand, I appreciate the support & kind words!
Awesome video! Very helpful with the in depth process of wet sanding. Much appreciated
Thanks for watching!
You are making extremely helpful videos as of late, sir. Thank ya much!
That’s what I’m here for! Thank you!
Those look amazing. Thanks for giving pointers on wet sanding.
I like watching your tutorials. Thank you for this one!
Your process definitely makes them shinier but grateful for the comment from you!
I started following your methods and i cant believe the turn out on my prints. Keep it up and thank you.
So awesome to hear! What have you made so far??
@Darkwingdad started printing 3 months ago,and finally learned my best settings,before that alot of bad layer line work and hard to post process.since your videos using your methods I made a helldivers,mando,miles morales,warlock helmet from Destiny 2 and currently working on legend of the white dragon(alot of Sharp edges). The methods of spray bondo glazing putty,etching primer and wet sanding/buffing the clear have been the big difference in subpar/average work and amazing work.I haven't seen many content creators if any that take the extra steps like you,amd that makes the big difference
Amazing video!
@@Lala-gb7pz thanks man!
Fantastic quality. Good job!
Thank you for sharing.
This was incredibly useful! Thank you! :)
I look forward to the 2k video.
Thanks so much!
I'd wager if one did the sand & polish with the conventional clearcoat it'd be much closer to your better result there.
Absolutely. Wetsanding & polishing will remove a ton of orange peel
Awesome!! Do you clear coat the duralumen? How do you protect the chrome finish?
They make tuff duralumen which has more clear in it. You can clear coat on top too
I got a Mando helmet waiting for sanding and finish, I was going to do the graphite rub, but this seems way better. Thanks!
Way better option here. Duralumen also makes a tuff version which has clear built in & more durable
This Is More Helpful sir 🤩 Thanks for making this video's❤️
Another great video DWD. I do have a question about the duralumen. Does it turn into silver paint if you put on too many coats like Alclad Chrome does? I have had much trouble with alclad and getting an even coat without it just turning into a silver metallic finish. I am printing an R2 and need to finish the dome and purchased Duralumen, but I have been putting off painting it given my sordid history with Alclade chrome.
The more coats you do the lighter it gets. For darker metal look 3-4 coats
Chrome/steel 5-6 coats
@@Darkwingdad Thanks for quick update! I am going to use the SprayMax 2K clear on the dome over the Duralumen and I will update this thread with the results. I have used the 2K before and it is awesome so crossing my fingers it doesn't dull the Duralumen too much.
Absolutely awesome! I've been waiting for this one. I'll be sure to use these techniques with the Tuff version of the Duralumen when embark on the full Mando suit. Thanks so much man. 🙏
Very useful, thank you. great effort, great work!
Thanks!
Thanks for the information! You have 4 different finishing polishes in your description are all 4 needed?
The first 2 are both needed (compound & med polish) the last any 1 of the 3 finishing polished you need so 1 compound, 1 med polish 1 finishing polish
Another excellent informative video Darkwing, eventually I hope I can get round to doing this myself at some point.
You got this! Thanks for watching
Nice! I was trying rustoleum silver but it just wiped off. The finish was great but just didn't last. This is something I'm gonna try for sure.
I finally got my R2 Dome painted with Duralumen and then used the 2K Clear from Spraymax over it. I must say it came out really nice and at least for the 2K, it did not appear to affect the Duralumen at all. I do recommend using a small automotive HVLP gun when doing the Duralumen over a large object. It was very difficult to get an even looking finish with the airbrush and I do have some light and darker streaks, but R2 shouldn't look perfect anyway. The duralumen is much easier to use than Alclad chrome and doesn't turn into silver looking paint if you put on a 2nd or 3rd coat. My old trusty hvlp gun was not in working condition and i didn't want to buy a new one since I don't paint cars anymore. The plastic cup had actually disintegrated and fell off on the floor when I pulled it out of the cabinet. :) Thanks again for doing this video it inspired me to go for it and not look back.
As long as duralumen is put on baby enough to a chrome like color 2k will always work on top! Glad r2 is looking good, I’m working on a welding prep video for the droid community.
Awesome video! Thank you for sharing and taking the time to work through your process. Do you have a recommendation for primer and 1k or 2k clears for an airbrush?
I'm not sure why I have seen this before, but you have a striking resemblance to that one guy from the fifth element.
LOl it must be the hair, someone said CM punk too haha
Gary Oldman?! Hardly.
Similar haircut (sort of) but that's wher th resemblence ends.
Nice one was just about to make a blaster that is primary crome do you know if there is a iridescent copper?
There are color shift paints at hobby lobby that shift from copper/red
Thanks found out the chrome stuff doesn't deliver to u.k lol just my luck still graet vid and I hope you had a great time at disney did you go Paris? Wish I could take my kids to the amarican one the original lol
@@TheMadmichel damn, UK gets shafted again! No we live in FL, we went to Disney world in Orlando
@@Darkwingdad nice which one did walt disney stay at?
Awesome video! Though I have to disagree on the hand polishing. I do it for all my props, hell I even did it on the guitar I built and it always comes out great. Like a mirror. As long as you have a good quality microfiber polishing cloth, you'll be good.
Respectfully speaking, hold an led light up to it, you’ll have tons of swirls in the finish from the pressure your applying. There’s a HUGE difference between gloss a finish. You can get things glossy but still have scratches. Scratches & swirls refract light instead of reflecting them. So your finish & shine won’t have as much pop as it could be. Just try it one time you’ll see the difference. There’s reasons why technicians who work on cars, chrome & even acrylic fish tanks use machines & not by hand. One is time….two is the quality.
@@Darkwingdad I'll definitely try this out on my guitar when I gey home, I'm very curious!
Great video! Any thoughts on using a drill for polishing vs buying a cheap polisher? I was thinking about getting a cheap polisher to use for 3d prints and maybe my car, but wondering if buying an adaptor for my drill would be better.
I have used both, it’s simply preference & budget. Keep in mind the drill is more agressive & will cut more bc it’s rotary where as a polisher is free spinning. I personally would never use the drill adapter on a car other than headlights maybe.
100 thumbs up from me!!!
Hi 👋 Great TH-cam channel.
I come from a vehicle body refinishing background, try some detergent/dishsoap in your water (possibly warm if you can) for wet sanding. It will glide well.
I mentioned Johnson & Johnson baby shampoo in the video…I come from an autobody background too lol dawn dish soap can actually create solvent pop in uncured clear due to its acidity.
What do you think a good airbrush nozzle size is for cosplay parts? I have a .5mm and not sure if it’s big enough for printed helmets
.7 is ideal
I would have loved to see some paint tape tests. maybe in your next duralumen video? :)
I’ll add it to the list lol
Instead of the wax/grease remover can you lightly use isopropyl alcohol or would that strip down some clear coat and paint? Definitely going to check out some of that duralumen when I run out of my usual Alclad-107
Isopropyl will also work A OK
Quick question. The link you have in description for 1k clear goes to spraymax product and not the duplicolor extreme. Which did you find works best? Thanks.
amzn.to/3qZSMlR here’s duplicolor. I noticed the duplicolor last longer. I used spray max in the past & although it doesn’t have the activator button after sitting for 2 weeks the nozzle clogged & i wasn’t able to use it. So although spray max is cheaper duplicolor lasts longer.
@@Darkwingdad Thanks for the quick response. I usually use Alclad gloss black for base, then Alclad II chrome followed by sealing with spraymax 2k for my Mando cosplay. Works well but wanted to find alternative where i can speed up time using rattle can for some parts. I am hoping even though this will introduce having to buff clearcoat before I spray chrome, it will still reduce the time it took on my alclad.
@@chrisgilreath2821 I haven’t used alcad yet but try using a flat or matte base followed by 2k. A lot less orange peel. I’ll be doing another video with duralumen tuff & with 2k clear
@@Darkwingdad Looking forward to when you compare duralumen with alclad chrome! My issue with 2k is that unless you use the whole can, its wasted due to cure time. Sometimes I am just building a Mando helmet and dont need an entire can, but it gets wasted.
@@chrisgilreath2821 yea the 2k you can put it in the fridge and get a little longer shelf life but that’s why I spray with hvlp it’s cheaper & obviously the activator K resin are seperate so “no” shelf like unless mixed
Where do you get your duralumin and do they have other colors like red, green, blue?
I left there Etsy store link in the description. I’m going to do a video showing how you can change the color of duralumen!
This may sound like a silly question, but would 16-54 Seymour Stainless-Steel Specialty Coating work? Like would it be safe to use after priming and even polish?
Got a link to the product?
@@Darkwingdad Yeah, I keep trying to post it but TH-cam keeps taking it down. I’ll try again down below as a separate comment. It’s also on amazon under the same name.
Love your videos! I do have a question:
We shouldn't use Dawn Dish Soap once the clearcoat is on; does it matter what soap we use to wash the primer/pla/filler dust off in the early stages? i.e. I used dawn dish soap to scrub my armor, am I ruining the primer or weakening paint adhesion?
It can, I never use water to wash/clean my pieces. Much better to use a prep solvent like alcohol,naptha or prep all bc they will evaporate so fast. If water is not fully removed from the surface it will definitely cause issues.
Oh my; thank you for explaining that. I was taught to just dump the sanded parts in soapy water but I'll be changing that up. Thank you!
Hey man....love the video. What about sealing the Duralumen....what do you use?
1k or 2k clear will work
Check out Car-Rep 2k clear. It has a humidity activated catalyst in it, so it's shelf stable and premixed from the factory. No more popping the activator on the bottom and wasting any leftover clear.
I’ll look into it for sure, I spray clear with hvlp but I know that’s not everyone’s bread & butter
@Darkwing dad for those that don't have access to a compressor, it's pretty awesome. I found that it's not quite as hard, once cured, as a traditional automotive 2K clear, but it is miles ahead of any 1K I've tried. I've used it on props, a scooter restoration, and a guitar build with excellent results and zero complaints.
@@MRgrimlock84 I definitely see why people use it. Even in a rattle can it lays & shrinks so much less. I haven’t used rattle can clear in almost 2 years & it’s just so hard to get a good spray & lay. I just hate how the 2k with the activator don’t last long.
One thing I struggled with was shiny/chrome paint not really liking other paints on top which is I guess good and bad. For instance I made a Mandalorian helmet where the base coat was chrome and I used a latex gel on top. Painted over with grey and with some rubbing I had some controlled wear and tear on the helmet. Now I wanted a third layer at the cheeks, and in some small grooves using blue - unfortunately when I masked them off, while it worked, all the grey paint under pulled off exposing the chrome again, which later I just used masking tape to just make the chrome exposed and forwent having multiple paint layers showing wear.
At the end of the day it did help texture the helmet the way I envisioned, however it still kind of blew that the paint peeled like that. How does this handle other paints on top of it and masking them off to get more detail?
Can you buff the durluman to make it More reflective
No you’ll strip it off
This was the video right lol does that airbrush reli work lol it's just surpriseing looks so small lol
It works great. It applied duralumen flawlessly to both masks
Do you have a link for the duralumen paint? I can’t seem to find it
www.etsy.com/listing/912121507/duralumen-chrome-paint-4oz?click_key=22a9c11ec672c7ba7d22b2ed710c41d8428ae2ab%3A912121507&click_sum=8541d09c&ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=the+digital+armory&ref=sr_gallery-1-2&organic_search_click=1&bes=1&sts=1&content_source=bcbffc203d174d736ac59930274f4fe0154057e4%253A912121507 there ya go!
I’m curious as to what pressure you are spraying the Duralumen at? I find it takes a lot more coats to get a reflective look / coverage than some other chrome paints. In the end it wasn’t a cost effective paint for me, unfortunately I probably won’t be buying it again.
32 psi, it is pretty pricey but a wild effect. I need to test alcad & alumaluster head to head to head
How well does the paint hold up to touching does it leave finger prints?
No issues, for something that’s even better they make duralumen tuff which has more clear coat in it
Great tips! Have always seen Duralumen, but nice to see a step by step from start to finish.
since i am in the middle of remaking my mando armor i would absoletly love to know how far you can push this with a 2k clear and a hvlp since that will be the same process i will go through! Would you recommend a 0.8 nozzle HVLP or a 1.4 ? I have both on hand but I feel like 1.4 is such a overkill?
Duralumen is thin, 1.4 is definitely overkill you’ll be fine using a .8 just set the fan & regulator properly. This airbrush was a .5
Hey mate what size needle did u use in your airbrush
.5
Thank u love your videos
Did you say wait 2 hours after final clear coat to add the duralumen?
Which clear are you using? The 1k or standard acrylic?
Standard acrylic 2-3 hours is fine.
1k we waited 24 hours before wetsanding so although 1k is a more volatile clear I would wait at least 4 hours if you’re not wetsanding it to be safe
I followed this method to a tee, everything was going perfectly, until I started applying the duralumen...now I see streaks everywhere? Any ideas on what I'd did wrong?
Which method did you use the wetsand & buff or just wetsand & reclear? 1k clear or standard acrylic?
@@Darkwingdad 1k, wet sand, polish, prep all, tac cloth, duralumen
@@Darkwingdad I think I figured it out. I don't think I cleaned off the polishing compound off well enough before applying the duralumen. I sprayed a test piece with duralumen that just had 1k with no wet sand or buffing and it came out with no streaks or spotting.
But I do have a follow up question with that, how do you know when You've gotten all the polishing compound off after buffing?
@@michiganmandos oils & residuals will definitely cause streaking. Also wear gloves & use a fresh towel. You can always run the piece under water, clean areas the water will sheet off the model. If there is oil it will build up almost in a pattern
@@Darkwingdad thank you so much that is hugely helpful! I definitely think that's what happened then. Time to wet sand and start over lol! I appreciate all you do and the replies!!!
Also what helps with orange peel is wet sand ur base coat before clear then same with clear then spray final clear and will be damn near or no peel
Wetsanding your base coat won’t help much, understand when paint cures it shrinks, that’s when orange peel occurs. Higher humidity & inadequate temps will also contribute to orange peel. If you’re using rattle can you’ll get more orange peel as well. Cut/buff/polish your final layer of clear to to reduce it the most
Nice compare vid
Thanks, good hearing from you! How’s everything?
@@Darkwingdad All good thanks - almost completed a B1 droid (paint) and working on a IG-12 (printing)
Can you put clearcoat on top of duralumen?
Yes you can. Duralumen also makes duralumen tuff which has clear in it
I’m surprised you can use Rustoleum and then Krlyon on top. I’m guessing you live in a dry, warm climate with low humidity. In my climate, which is colder, wet and higher humidity, both paints will react very poorly. I’ve not had any issues with Duplicolor and Montana
Florida…. So hot & humid lol If you give paints proper time to cure anything can work. Problem is people wait 20-30 minutes & put coats on wayyyy to heavy and frying occurs. Guess that’s another video I’ll have to do & show lol
Dawn is alkaline - at least plain dawn is. I've never had issues adding it to my wet sanding to get mirror finish, but obviously that changes if you use like scented and other varieties.
Dawn ultra contains sulfuric acid, regular Dawn contains metasilicates which are found in heavy degreasers. Both will continue to attack the surface. Not good for incurred clear. Solvent pop won’t happen right away but months after treating the paint:
@@Darkwingdad Hmm think Cascade has meta-silicates but never used it so don't know how it impacts it, either way my prints from 10 years ago still look shiny and clean, if not a bit dusty.
Also - I've used 2k clear but never 1k, does the 1k have some sort of metallic flakes in it?
@@realMysta 2k had more hardening agents in it, so it does cure a bit faster.
@@realMysta duplicolor 1k comes with & without flake
You can reduce orange peel by using a large gravity feed spray gun and blast it super wet. Like the guys that paint cars use. Only $15-20 at harbor freight.
Using an hvlp will greatly reduce orange peel yes
@@Darkwingdad yeah. My bad. I commented before watching the whole video. 🙄
@@jasoncombs3232 lol no worries my man
you need an expensive compressor for this though right?
@@gehrkea any compressor works at 40 psi.
DAME they don't dilver to u.k 😢
man you are unbelievable !! Just when i startled searching about it!! thanks a lot