Hey there, brother.. You did such nice video, Don't be ashamed for all the work and the time you spend on your car, Believe me, brother, you Lorne us, but the fact is all the experience you got from all good job that you have done, and that is the best way to Lorne it ... By the way, you mentioned the auto part where you ordered the bolts. Can you please let us know the name, please? ... I was focused thinking the way to remove the leftover bolt head, and i didn't catch up with the name of Store.. Thank you for Lorne us with a very good and excellent video... Very Good Job
I’m 99% sure that noise is definitely your front driveshaft cv joint. I had the same noise and used the Dorman kit! Check to see if the rubber boot is torn. It’s simple to replace in an hour.
i remember having that issue a few years back. someone told me those are called clevis bolts. as i was about to give up doing the work i started pulling the cv axle i was replacing and the thick end that goes into the trans just separated from the inner boot and that allowed the rest of the axle to just move through that fork. i looked close at the axel end and looked into some videos where people did boot replacements and i took my new axel and separated the thicker trans side from the inner boot and positioned the shaft through the fork and reattached the two pieces which was a little tricky doing it solo but i got it assembled nicely and my jeep is still going strong but its now parked cause im sick of paying a fortune on gas
You can get a front differential for a few hundred bucks but I bet it was th front driveshaft that made all the noise . And how is it only worth 400 bucks if you just spent all that on front end parts ?? I know this is an old post but also did you refill the gear oil after this job ?
Nice work. I was fighting for 2 days to get the clevis bolt out on my 2008 Grand Cherokee. Also cut it out with the saws all. My shock and strut clevis is worse than yours so I probably won't be replacing that any time soon.
Nice, I just did the front end on mine last year at 160K of NJ rust. ;) the clevis bolt did not want to play nice so I had to introduce it to the 5 inch Diablo carbide blade. I figured while I was pulling all of that stuff out I might as well change the lower control arms as well as the uppers. And of course the lower control arm did not want to play nice either so it got to help me break in the new 5 inch Diablo carbide blade as well. I also figured might as well change the front bushings while I'm there. ;) And those front sway bar bolts from the years of Rain, salt, and NJ were a real PITA as well. ;) The clevis bolt it known to seize to the lower control arm bushing, as The bushing has a metal sleeve inside. you got lucky that when you cut the bolt it wasn't seized inside of the lower control arm bushing. That's the place you really want to make sure there is a good amount of any seize. I have been on Commander forums since I bought my first one in 2006.
Those fork bolts always seize to the bushing. I had to cut my bolts. Still couldn’t get them out and ruined the bushings with heat. I already bought new control arms, just had to buy new fork bolts. I put anti seize on the bolts where it would contact the bushing, in case I had to remove them again for some reason. That for me was the most difficult part of the job.
I am working on neighbors 06 commander man it is one thing after another. Can't believe how shot all the front bushings are. About to put in a second radiator in it. Colorado tears them up bad. The rack and pinion are a nightmare to do. Just put one of them in worst job ever.
Wow, just saw the end of this. F, that. Pull the front driveshaft out and drive 4x2 till you find a used front axle. Well, depending on which of the 4 transmissions you have. If you have a full-time four-wheel-drive. I think I read that even if you do that it will not drive because the torque converter thinks that the front wheels are slipping and keeps trying to deliver more power to the front axle which is not there if ya take it out.
Puit your Commander on a trailer and bring it on over to the rust coast Chris and sell that Colorado Commander to someone that has a Commander with a good drivetrain. Jeep bodies don't stand a chance over here!!
I never made it that far. The axle self-removed while I was driving. The Jeep was totaled after that. Just too much damage to keep fixing and replacing parts.
Sorry to hear it was your differential! I’m trying to figure out if you had similar symptoms like I’m having. When im driving 20-30 mph and above going straight or turning to the right I get this rubbing and vibration on the front drivers side, but if i slightly turn/swerve to the left the sound goes away completely. Basically when you take the pressure off of the drivers wheel the sound and vibration go away. I’ve changed the wheel bearing and rotated the tires and still have the issue. I also changed the propeller shaft last year and that’s still fine. Just curious if you had the same symptoms. Thank you!
Mine was the front diff pinion bearing. It sounds like it might be your problem too. When it went, it went bad, completely threw out the drive shaft. I already had a bent frame from an accident with a unlicensed and uninsured motorist, so it wasn't worth fixing for me. For you, it may be???
@@Wavetechlifeguardian Thank you for the response. At anytime driving it could you make it stop/go away by turning/swerving in either direction? Or would your noise go away going around a turn left or right? Thank you.
No. This was not a fix for my problem. Mine was a bearing inside the front diff. It eventually failed throwing my driveshaft out. I do not recommend driving till it fails. Not fun or safe at all.
That sucks about your differential. I just bought a commander at auction and it seems like everything needs replaced, each part costs 4x as much as the same part for my XJ, and they are in the most difficult places to work on them. If you decide you want to part out your Jeep let me know because I need all the parts you just replaced.
Follow up. I just got around to doing my shocks, wheel bearings, and CVs and I cannot remove that Clovis shock bracket to save my life. This is by far the most difficult jeep to work on. Such a pain.
I think dorman sells a repair kit (new cv) or whole new driveshaft, there are a few vids on youtube for the Grand Cherokee and Commander for the front driveshaft repair. Easier, cheaper than diff. bearings.
Dont mistake the front driveshaft and the CV axles. The Front (propeller shaft) is known for the rubber seal to get torn overtime and they sell a rebuild kit. You can rebuild both the front and the rear of the driveshaft. However, front wheels use a CV axle and you have to make sure you get the right one either with or without limited slip. If you're not sure whether or not you need the limited slip, Just lift your front wheels off the ground, and put the transmission in neutral and make sure your truck does not go away from you. Then just roll one wheel by hand. If the opposite wheel rolls in the opposite direction than you are going than you need the limited slip.
Im laughing at 23:00. I ordered the wrong bolts as well. The shorter bolts they sent you are for the top of the Clevis (to the coil over strut). The bottom is a longer bolt which you found out ;)
@@wiley0714 In my experience with cars with limited slip/posi-traction rearends. Both wheels turn in the same direction when spun as described. Wheels turning in opposite directions usually indicate a non limited slip axle. Also called an open rearend.
Dude front differential is like $200 at any scrap yard,, with low milage.. scraping a jeep for a front diff SMH 😂 .. i know this because a year ago i replaced mine and got one like new with only 70,000 miles on it for $200 , put new seals in it and is perfect…
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Thanks for the video! I feel confident I can replace my cv axles now. Didn't have the same sound as yours, just torn boots, leaking grease.
You can do it! Hammer and chisel to get the "stuck" inner part separated and the rest was easy.
Hey there, brother..
You did such nice video, Don't be ashamed for all the work and the time you spend on your car, Believe me, brother, you Lorne us, but the fact is all the experience you got from all good job that you have done, and that is the best way to Lorne it ...
By the way, you mentioned the auto part where you ordered the bolts. Can you please let us know the name, please? ...
I was focused thinking the way to remove the leftover bolt head, and i didn't catch up with the name of Store..
Thank you for Lorne us with a very good and excellent video...
Very Good Job
It was a long time ago, but I believe it was through the parts counter at a Jeep dealer. I had to find a specific dealer that had them. Most did not.
I’m 99% sure that noise is definitely your front driveshaft cv joint. I had the same noise and used the Dorman kit!
Check to see if the rubber boot is torn.
It’s simple to replace in an hour.
Am I hearing some choice words at 15:00? Great video! Thanks! 👍👍👍
i remember having that issue a few years back. someone told me those are called clevis bolts. as i was about to give up doing the work i started pulling the cv axle i was replacing and the thick end that goes into the trans just separated from the inner boot and that allowed the rest of the axle to just move through that fork. i looked close at the axel end and looked into some videos where people did boot replacements and i took my new axel and separated the thicker trans side from the inner boot and positioned the shaft through the fork and reattached the two pieces which was a little tricky doing it solo but i got it assembled nicely and my jeep is still going strong but its now parked cause im sick of paying a fortune on gas
You can get a front differential for a few hundred bucks but I bet it was th front driveshaft that made all the noise . And how is it only worth 400 bucks if you just spent all that on front end parts ?? I know this is an old post but also did you refill the gear oil after this job ?
Hopefully you’ve decided to get a pull a part yard front diff.
It’s the cv joint on the front driveshaft for mine.
Nice work. I was fighting for 2 days to get the clevis bolt out on my 2008 Grand Cherokee. Also cut it out with the saws all. My shock and strut clevis is worse than yours so I probably won't be replacing that any time soon.
Nice, I just did the front end on mine last year at 160K of NJ rust. ;) the clevis bolt did not want to play nice so I had to introduce it to the 5 inch Diablo carbide blade. I figured while I was pulling all of that stuff out I might as well change the lower control arms as well as the uppers. And of course the lower control arm did not want to play nice either so it got to help me break in the new 5 inch Diablo carbide blade as well. I also figured might as well change the front bushings while I'm there. ;) And those front sway bar bolts from the years of Rain, salt, and NJ were a real PITA as well. ;) The clevis bolt it known to seize to the lower control arm bushing, as The bushing has a metal sleeve inside. you got lucky that when you cut the bolt it wasn't seized inside of the lower control arm bushing. That's the place you really want to make sure there is a good amount of any seize. I have been on Commander forums since I bought my first one in 2006.
Those fork bolts always seize to the bushing. I had to cut my bolts. Still couldn’t get them out and ruined the bushings with heat. I already bought new control arms, just had to buy new fork bolts. I put anti seize on the bolts where it would contact the bushing, in case I had to remove them again for some reason.
That for me was the most difficult part of the job.
Shouldn't be that hard to do the ring and pinion bearing. Full front diff rebuild kit isn't crazy expensive...a few hundred maybe.
Thanks, very halpeful video.
Good job
You make it look so hard
It is for me! haha!
I am working on neighbors 06 commander man it is one thing after another. Can't believe how shot all the front bushings are. About to put in a second radiator in it. Colorado tears them up bad. The rack and pinion are a nightmare to do. Just put one of them in worst job ever.
Wow, just saw the end of this. F, that. Pull the front driveshaft out and drive 4x2 till you find a used front axle. Well, depending on which of the 4 transmissions you have. If you have a full-time four-wheel-drive. I think I read that even if you do that it will not drive because the torque converter thinks that the front wheels are slipping and keeps trying to deliver more power to the front axle which is not there if ya take it out.
You don't know the slightest thing about what you're talking about 🤣🤣
Hi. Can you write, please, the sizes of the sockets that you used in this work? Thank you.
Transfer box brother! lol
Puit your Commander on a trailer and bring it on over to the rust coast Chris and sell that Colorado Commander to someone that has a Commander with a good drivetrain. Jeep bodies don't stand a chance over here!!
How much did you pay for the parts you changed?
That sounds like your cv joint at the end of your front driveshaft that goes from transfer case to the front differential.
I think you are right. I just looked at it today, and it looked sketchy.
im about to do the same job cv axle struts and ball joints
Me too!
you didnt show pulling the cv axle out, which is why i was watching
I never made it that far. The axle self-removed while I was driving. The Jeep was totaled after that. Just too much damage to keep fixing and replacing parts.
Sorry to hear it was your differential!
I’m trying to figure out if you had similar symptoms like I’m having. When im driving 20-30 mph and above going straight or turning to the right I get this rubbing and vibration on the front drivers side, but if i slightly turn/swerve to the left the sound goes away completely. Basically when you take the pressure off of the drivers wheel the sound and vibration go away. I’ve changed the wheel bearing and rotated the tires and still have the issue. I also changed the propeller shaft last year and that’s still fine.
Just curious if you had the same symptoms.
Thank you!
Mine was the front diff pinion bearing. It sounds like it might be your problem too. When it went, it went bad, completely threw out the drive shaft. I already had a bent frame from an accident with a unlicensed and uninsured motorist, so it wasn't worth fixing for me. For you, it may be???
@@Wavetechlifeguardian Thank you for the response.
At anytime driving it could you make it stop/go away by turning/swerving in either direction? Or would your noise go away going around a turn left or right?
Thank you.
if you were doing all that you should have done your upper/lower ball joints (upper lower control arms).
Если болт заржавел или плохо выбивается шаровая попробуй дрель в режиме перфоратора.
Did you ever fix this issue? I’m having the same issue and wondering if replacing the driveshaft might fix the noise?
No. This was not a fix for my problem. Mine was a bearing inside the front diff. It eventually failed throwing my driveshaft out. I do not recommend driving till it fails. Not fun or safe at all.
I think you need to replace the shock bushing in the lower control arm.
Yes. It was bad.
Thanx! Gold Noob.))
That sucks about your differential. I just bought a commander at auction and it seems like everything needs replaced, each part costs 4x as much as the same part for my XJ, and they are in the most difficult places to work on them. If you decide you want to part out your Jeep let me know because I need all the parts you just replaced.
Follow up. I just got around to doing my shocks, wheel bearings, and CVs and I cannot remove that Clovis shock bracket to save my life. This is by far the most difficult jeep to work on. Such a pain.
I think dorman sells a repair kit (new cv) or whole new driveshaft, there are a few vids on youtube for the Grand Cherokee and Commander for the front driveshaft repair. Easier, cheaper than diff. bearings.
I used the Dorman kit for my front driveshaft cv joint. It was cheap, simple and worked!
Dont mistake the front driveshaft and the CV axles. The Front (propeller shaft) is known for the rubber seal to get torn overtime and they sell a rebuild kit. You can rebuild both the front and the rear of the driveshaft. However, front wheels use a CV axle and you have to make sure you get the right one either with or without limited slip. If you're not sure whether or not you need the limited slip, Just lift your front wheels off the ground, and put the transmission in neutral and make sure your truck does not go away from you. Then just roll one wheel by hand. If the opposite wheel rolls in the opposite direction than you are going than you need the limited slip.
Im laughing at 23:00. I ordered the wrong bolts as well. The shorter bolts they sent you are for the top of the Clevis (to the coil over strut). The bottom is a longer bolt which you found out ;)
@@wiley0714 In my experience with cars with limited slip/posi-traction rearends. Both wheels turn in the same direction when spun as described. Wheels turning in opposite directions usually indicate a non limited slip axle. Also called an open rearend.
@@akaredcrossbow were you experiencing the same noises and the driveshaft repair fixed it?
You should've changed your diff bushings while you had everything apart.
Yes. I wish I would have. That might have saved the Jeep!
You could get a used diff for a couple hundred bucks, don’t know where there getting 2,500
LMAO
Dude front differential is like $200 at any scrap yard,, with low milage.. scraping a jeep for a front diff SMH 😂 .. i know this because a year ago i replaced mine and got one like new with only 70,000 miles on it for $200 , put new seals in it and is perfect…
Doah! I should have done that!!!
Do u still have it?
No. The drive shaft eventually was thrown from the transfer case. All that work was for not. :(
@@Wavetechlifeguardian damn
@@Wavetechlifeguardiancan u not just replace the bearing in the differential?
After watching this i will not attempt it
Gas burner usefull
Pick one up in a junk yard
A new diff. That is
Coco melon
U started it off wrong tbh
This is just too painful to watch 😖