I’ve been using that for 10 years going, I go through gallons of it. What I’d recommend here if you use more of it is to remove the lid and stir it, because there are a lot of solids at the bottom of the can that you aren’t getting mixed up just by shaking. Don’t open it when it’s humid and open it inside of you need to, but it’s important to get all those solids mixed up. Then just put some Saran Wrap over the can and pound the lid back on. I use paint spouts so I can pour it out and doesn’t make a mess in the can gutter. The Saran Wrap will keep the lid from sticking to the can. If you have a welder you can also give a shot of CO2/argon in the can to displace any of the humid air as well before replacing the lid.
Those are some fantastic tips! In Florida the humidity kills the paint when opened. I tried Saran Wrap once and the paint cured overnight. I’ll try the Argon/CO2 idea next time! I need to get more MasterSeries, the stuff is great.
@@StevesProjectCarGarage the Saran Wrap isn’t for humidity so much moreso to just keep the lid from getting stuck to the can. I’m in SW MI and our humidity is only 40-50% on average. Since you are in humid FL, my tip (because this is what I do on humid days here) is to open the can in the house, pour what you need out into another container like an old yogurt container and then take that out with you. I have cans sitting in the basement that are a year old. This will get a lot more life out of it. I also use the silver for a lot of other things. I use it as a seam sealer; glob it onto seams kind of thick and it will flow into the seam a little as well. But it leaves a clean looking seam without a bunch of gunky looking seam sealer. I also use it as an adhesive. Believe it or not all the emblems on my 67 Mustang on the fenders (they are the pin on type) are held on to the car with silver. I put it on the pins Heavy and dab into the hole then put the emblem into place. This also prevents the hole from rusting and making rust stains down the side of your car if it gets wet. Finally, you should also be using their metal prep! That’s a whole other convo. For your car you can refinish your stock bolts beautifully with it. On my channel I have a video called DIY Parkerizing that uses their metal prep. This is how I treat all of my nuts and bolts.
@@TheScientistHayFarmer I treat my nuts poorly by beating them. Anywho great ideas as seam sealer and putting into emblem holes. As u know and some don't the corner or edge of a panel is thin. It's hard to get a good coating of anything on them. I've seen holes do just what u said on nice cars. Just something ppl don't think about or get in a hurry to assemble and not let paint etc harden for long enuff.
I'm not getting the screw in can. Why not put in fridge, in a container obviously not beside meatloaf, and then after a lil chill pour in a very well sealable container as a Idk Mason jar, a HQ drink cup, etc and keep in cool place? I've made 2k coatings last a shake over 24 hrs after mixing when without they are trash in half time. Or get a old dorm fridge that works and put in there? I put alot of my coatings in there and they seem to last alot longer. Shame we cleaned out my paps shop after he died and he had stuff like XO Rust paint in can that still was good to use.
I kept that can around for a good 8 months after opening initially. Being in Florida if I just opened the lid the paint would have cured fully in less than a week due to the humidity getting into the can. The screw works well before it allows a minimal amount of humidity to get in the can. Remember it is a moisture cure paint.
Great work! Since this video have you tried any methods to eliminate brush strokes? Like using a foam brush or foam roller? Or using a tiny amount of their reducer so it levels a little better? Im fixing to use it where itll be visible so dont want brush marks, but cant spray it.
@@StevesProjectCarGaragewhat kind of gun did you spray it with? Was it hvlp or lvlp? I've been wondering if it'll spray with a lvlp, I have one on the way to use with paint because it makes has far less cloud of overspray....but I'm thinking this stuff might be too thick for it.
Also I've seen where master says u have to use their thinner to spray this. Is this so? I've used a small air brush type set up to spray alot of things when I didn't want to tape off, etc and just spray. Like a HVLP. Those are the shit. I've painted jams and the like and no over spray. But expensive for its own air supply. I've not used just the gun. Mine is a old sand blast mfg setup.
Yeah you need to thin it to spray, but you can also now but the MasterSeries Slim which is pre-thinned and ready to spray. It’s really nice. I actually prefer it over the original even for brushing on.
@@StevesProjectCarGarage Ok cool. I figured tgeir special thinner was just thinner. I've been looking into what's best. I know it's a big, split sided topic but I have ppl say U will never get it so that it won't ever rust. I disagree. Yes we can't dip them but it we use enuff layers of protection, and after all that spray with oil/wax coating it will last. Unless something scrapes it down to bare metal I don't see why it won't last. Worst place is wheel wells. I've coated my Town Car with layers of that Idk what it is but it has kevlar fibers in it. And then a raptor liner, then rustoleum black then my own oil, trans, grease, and wax sprayed. Yes it took some work to get it to this point, But 1 new autos suck, 2 After almost 3 decades I know that 4.6 2 valves last a lifetime if serviced, 3 body on frame is easy to fix, repair, and protect 4 New autos cost so dam much I really don't want a new auto. I'll take my 07 town car over any of them. I work on cars and I see daily what ppl pay to have these newer cars fixed. Can't get parts, when u do they cost arm n leg. I don't like where tech is going. I had to tow a newer Honda pilot cause battery was dead. Can't get out if park, had to winch up on stuck in park, have to remove air intake to get to battery, no jump points and has AGM battery. I'll take my tried and true panther.
The MasterSeries is phenomenal paint. I have continued to use it on other parts of the car, and I have had zero issue with it. I highly recommend it for areas prone to rusting.
Watched this for the Mastercoat but seeing the Linux license plate had me subscribe. Its now 2024, hope that project turned out well for you.
Thank you! Frame is all done, but now im slowly working on the engine.
I'm learning and jamming at the same time. 🙂
I’m still unsure of the music format change. I’m still learning as I go with editing.
I’ve been using that for 10 years going, I go through gallons of it. What I’d recommend here if you use more of it is to remove the lid and stir it, because there are a lot of solids at the bottom of the can that you aren’t getting mixed up just by shaking. Don’t open it when it’s humid and open it inside of you need to, but it’s important to get all those solids mixed up. Then just put some Saran Wrap over the can and pound the lid back on. I use paint spouts so I can pour it out and doesn’t make a mess in the can gutter. The Saran Wrap will keep the lid from sticking to the can. If you have a welder you can also give a shot of CO2/argon in the can to displace any of the humid air as well before replacing the lid.
Those are some fantastic tips! In Florida the humidity kills the paint when opened. I tried Saran Wrap once and the paint cured overnight. I’ll try the Argon/CO2 idea next time! I need to get more MasterSeries, the stuff is great.
@@StevesProjectCarGarage the Saran Wrap isn’t for humidity so much moreso to just keep the lid from getting stuck to the can. I’m in SW MI and our humidity is only 40-50% on average. Since you are in humid FL, my tip (because this is what I do on humid days here) is to open the can in the house, pour what you need out into another container like an old yogurt container and then take that out with you. I have cans sitting in the basement that are a year old. This will get a lot more life out of it.
I also use the silver for a lot of other things. I use it as a seam sealer; glob it onto seams kind of thick and it will flow into the seam a little as well. But it leaves a clean looking seam without a bunch of gunky looking seam sealer.
I also use it as an adhesive. Believe it or not all the emblems on my 67 Mustang on the fenders (they are the pin on type) are held on to the car with silver. I put it on the pins Heavy and dab into the hole then put the emblem into place. This also prevents the hole from rusting and making rust stains down the side of your car if it gets wet.
Finally, you should also be using their metal prep! That’s a whole other convo. For your car you can refinish your stock bolts beautifully with it. On my channel I have a video called DIY Parkerizing that uses their metal prep. This is how I treat all of my nuts and bolts.
@@TheScientistHayFarmer I treat my nuts poorly by beating them. Anywho great ideas as seam sealer and putting into emblem holes. As u know and some don't the corner or edge of a panel is thin. It's hard to get a good coating of anything on them. I've seen holes do just what u said on nice cars. Just something ppl don't think about or get in a hurry to assemble and not let paint etc harden for long enuff.
@@jasonchristopher2977 LOL. Be easier on your nuts brother.
Subscribed! Thanks for linking the video in the Spitfire group on Facebook!
Thanks for subscribing! I hope you enjoy the build. It has been a learning process for me.
Cheers!
I'm not getting the screw in can. Why not put in fridge, in a container obviously not beside meatloaf, and then after a lil chill pour in a very well sealable container as a Idk Mason jar, a HQ drink cup, etc and keep in cool place? I've made 2k coatings last a shake over 24 hrs after mixing when without they are trash in half time. Or get a old dorm fridge that works and put in there? I put alot of my coatings in there and they seem to last alot longer. Shame we cleaned out my paps shop after he died and he had stuff like XO Rust paint in can that still was good to use.
I kept that can around for a good 8 months after opening initially. Being in Florida if I just opened the lid the paint would have cured fully in less than a week due to the humidity getting into the can.
The screw works well before it allows a minimal amount of humidity to get in the can. Remember it is a moisture cure paint.
Great work! Since this video have you tried any methods to eliminate brush strokes? Like using a foam brush or foam roller? Or using a tiny amount of their reducer so it levels a little better? Im fixing to use it where itll be visible so dont want brush marks, but cant spray it.
The paint is very difficult to work with, so thinning it more might be beneficial. What I sprayed though came out nice.
@@StevesProjectCarGaragewhat kind of gun did you spray it with? Was it hvlp or lvlp? I've been wondering if it'll spray with a lvlp, I have one on the way to use with paint because it makes has far less cloud of overspray....but I'm thinking this stuff might be too thick for it.
@ it was with an HVLP. I’m going to move to an LVLP though. I feel HVLP is wasteful.
Also I've seen where master says u have to use their thinner to spray this. Is this so? I've used a small air brush type set up to spray alot of things when I didn't want to tape off, etc and just spray. Like a HVLP. Those are the shit. I've painted jams and the like and no over spray. But expensive for its own air supply. I've not used just the gun. Mine is a old sand blast mfg setup.
Yeah you need to thin it to spray, but you can also now but the MasterSeries Slim which is pre-thinned and ready to spray. It’s really nice. I actually prefer it over the original even for brushing on.
@@StevesProjectCarGarage Ok cool. I figured tgeir special thinner was just thinner.
I've been looking into what's best. I know it's a big, split sided topic but I have ppl say U will never get it so that it won't ever rust. I disagree. Yes we can't dip them but it we use enuff layers of protection, and after all that spray with oil/wax coating it will last. Unless something scrapes it down to bare metal I don't see why it won't last. Worst place is wheel wells. I've coated my Town Car with layers of that Idk what it is but it has kevlar fibers in it. And then a raptor liner, then rustoleum black then my own oil, trans, grease, and wax sprayed. Yes it took some work to get it to this point, But 1 new autos suck, 2 After almost 3 decades I know that 4.6 2 valves last a lifetime if serviced, 3 body on frame is easy to fix, repair, and protect 4 New autos cost so dam much I really don't want a new auto. I'll take my 07 town car over any of them.
I work on cars and I see daily what ppl pay to have these newer cars fixed. Can't get parts, when u do they cost arm n leg. I don't like where tech is going. I had to tow a newer Honda pilot cause battery was dead. Can't get out if park, had to winch up on stuck in park, have to remove air intake to get to battery, no jump points and has AGM battery. I'll take my tried and true panther.
Follow up ?
The MasterSeries is phenomenal paint. I have continued to use it on other parts of the car, and I have had zero issue with it. I highly recommend it for areas prone to rusting.