Just want to say that you did an exceptional job on this. I'm so impressed and thoroughly enjoyed everything step by step. You said you've got a lot of learning to do but you truly came off as a pro who did everything meticulously. This really inspired me to start my own projects. Thank you Steve!
It's looking good Steve 👍. It took me right back to my chassis painting. It will certainly pay off putting all the time and effort into it. You mentioned the humidity you have in Florida, you really need to watch that when you come to spraying the body of your car. The last thing you want is micro blistering. I see it all the time on old cars. It occurs when you spray and it can be due to having tiny moisture droplets in your air system or you have not taken into account the due point at the time you are applying the paint. Please do some research into it. I have a due point calculator app on my phone and a temperature/humidity display in my workshop. I also sealed off my shop and basically turned it into a spray booth for the whole week while I sprayed the chassis. It was really weird only spending about 30 minutes a day in the workshop, to apply the paint then get out and close it up. I will be doing the same when I start applying the body colour. Kind regards Paul from 48 Spokes 🇬🇧
Thanks Paul! Humidity is a huge problem down here for sure when it comes to painting. When I get to painting the body it will most likely happen in the “winter” when humidity is lowest. I have a pretty hefty humidity trap and filter setup for my system, but I’m sure I could use more. I’ve considered setting up a trap system on the wall of copper pipe with drains. Thanks again for the support!
Nice work. That being said, for most such videos anything prepped, primed and painted with most anything is going to look good. What's important is how does it hold up 5, 10 or 15 years down the road. I know, some of that would pre-date UTube, however, none of this really matters unless the After a bunch of years was shown first. If anybody knows of such information available from credible sources please post. Thanks again!
You are 100% spot on! I can say that I know some who have had it on their chassis for a decade and it is still rock solid. But again as with anything prep and application is key to longevity.
I got some mastercoat slim i painted over some plated metal .i wiped it down with a rag that had acetone on it and it didnt stick so good.next time ima san it down all the way i sanded down the spots thay had rust on it i have spots that is flaking though .i put phospheric acid on some spots and its not flaking but its in a spot that isnt being abrasive on bicycle
Great video on Master Series. I brushed it on 15 years ago and wish I had sprayed it. Question about your set up end what kind of spray gun are you using, what tips for both the AG 111 and the silver, and how did you reduce both products for spraying them meaning how much thinner did you have to add per quart.
Thank you! I used a cheap HVLP gun from Harbor Freight with the 1.2 tip that came with it. Someone had just commented that MasterCoat guys recommended a 1.7. I can see that for the AG-111. For the silver which sprayed beautifully I used their Slim version which is pre thinned specifically for spraying. In terms of the reducer, I just used some of their thinner to reduce it and it worked pretty well. I don’t recall the ratios though, it has been a moment.
Thanks, I’m sure you could, but it is a tinatable product so ideally you just tint it whatever color you will paint your car with and then you don’t have to paint over it.
@nikoalushaj I misunderstood your question. Yes, you should have no issue putting Raptor Liner over this. Just make sure that you do so within the timeframe on the can for overcoat.
What size tips did you use in your gun for the silver Rust Sealer "slim" and the black AG111? Looked like the silver sprayed pretty well. Nice work. EDIT: I contacted Mastercoat and they recommended I use a 1.7 tip on my A610 LVLP gun for both the silver "slim" sealer and black AG111.
Thanks Paul! I remember that video from a while back. I want to build a more permanent setup like yours. Right now I have a large desiccant bead filter that hold 2lbs of desiccant and then I have a separator like you do at the gun. Cheers!
@@StevesProjectCarGarage I hope you get it sorted Steve. I'm thinking about doing another stage of drying as I didn't expect to see any moisturiser in the last trap at the gun. You can make a big difference if your shop is sealed and you draw air in at a low moisture content to start with. Also, don't be afraid to wait until you get the best weather conditions. Kind regards Paul
Just want to say that you did an exceptional job on this. I'm so impressed and thoroughly enjoyed everything step by step. You said you've got a lot of learning to do but you truly came off as a pro who did everything meticulously. This really inspired me to start my own projects. Thank you Steve!
Thank you! Looking back on it now there are things I would have done differently but overall I am happy with the finished product!
The rust prep is a must
Great progress. Exciting to see color going on.
Thank you Hazen!!
Looking really good! Just catching up after being down in your sweltering heat last week! Almost time to start throwing parts back on!
Thanks! You had yourself a fun trip from the looks of it!
very satisfying video.
Thanks Nick! I go out in the garage and look at it in awe sometimes. Especially when I flash back to what it was just two weeks ago.
It's looking good Steve 👍. It took me right back to my chassis painting. It will certainly pay off putting all the time and effort into it.
You mentioned the humidity you have in Florida, you really need to watch that when you come to spraying the body of your car. The last thing you want is micro blistering. I see it all the time on old cars. It occurs when you spray and it can be due to having tiny moisture droplets in your air system or you have not taken into account the due point at the time you are applying the paint. Please do some research into it. I have a due point calculator app on my phone and a temperature/humidity display in my workshop. I also sealed off my shop and basically turned it into a spray booth for the whole week while I sprayed the chassis. It was really weird only spending about 30 minutes a day in the workshop, to apply the paint then get out and close it up. I will be doing the same when I start applying the body colour.
Kind regards Paul from 48 Spokes 🇬🇧
Thanks Paul!
Humidity is a huge problem down here for sure when it comes to painting. When I get to painting the body it will most likely happen in the “winter” when humidity is lowest. I have a pretty hefty humidity trap and filter setup for my system, but I’m sure I could use more. I’ve considered setting up a trap system on the wall of copper pipe with drains.
Thanks again for the support!
Nice work. That being said, for most such videos anything prepped, primed and painted with most anything is going to look good. What's important is how does it hold up 5, 10 or 15 years down the road. I know, some of that would pre-date UTube, however, none of this really matters unless the After a bunch of years was shown first. If anybody knows of such information available from credible sources please post. Thanks again!
You are 100% spot on! I can say that I know some who have had it on their chassis for a decade and it is still rock solid. But again as with anything prep and application is key to longevity.
I appreciate your response--especially about he 10 year mark. @@StevesProjectCarGarage
I got some mastercoat slim i painted over some plated metal .i wiped it down with a rag that had acetone on it and it didnt stick so good.next time ima san it down all the way i sanded down the spots thay had rust on it i have spots that is flaking though .i put phospheric acid on some spots and its not flaking but its in a spot that isnt being abrasive on bicycle
Yeah the metal prep really is key. That is why his frame kit has all the metal prep included. Strip bare, use metal prep then paint.
Great video on Master Series. I brushed it on 15 years ago and wish I had sprayed it. Question about your set up end what kind of spray gun are you using, what tips for both the AG 111 and the silver, and how did you reduce both products for spraying them meaning how much thinner did you have to add per quart.
Thank you! I used a cheap HVLP gun from Harbor Freight with the 1.2 tip that came with it. Someone had just commented that MasterCoat guys recommended a 1.7. I can see that for the AG-111. For the silver which sprayed beautifully I used their Slim version which is pre thinned specifically for spraying.
In terms of the reducer, I just used some of their thinner to reduce it and it worked pretty well.
I don’t recall the ratios though, it has been a moment.
Hi! good very good work, but we can paint over this with raptor liner, ?
Thanks, I’m sure you could, but it is a tinatable product so ideally you just tint it whatever color you will paint your car with and then you don’t have to paint over it.
is that a yes? so can i use raptor liner over this primer
@nikoalushaj I misunderstood your question. Yes, you should have no issue putting Raptor Liner over this. Just make sure that you do so within the timeframe on the can for overcoat.
i thought this is a primer? and as i know the primer needs top coat
@@nikoalushaj it is a primer but it can also be used in 3 layers without a top coat.
What size tips did you use in your gun for the silver Rust Sealer "slim" and the black AG111? Looked like the silver sprayed pretty well. Nice work. EDIT: I contacted Mastercoat and they recommended I use a 1.7 tip on my A610 LVLP gun for both the silver "slim" sealer and black AG111.
Interesting! I did mine with a 1.2. I had issues with spraying the AG-111, but the slim went on beautifully.
Anti graffiti just means its toulane resistant
So you can use paint thinner to get rid of graffiti without affecting your paint job
Hi Steve, here is the video that shows my system.
th-cam.com/video/OQ4CclN6W-c/w-d-xo.html
Kind regards Paul
Thanks Paul! I remember that video from a while back. I want to build a more permanent setup like yours. Right now I have a large desiccant bead filter that hold 2lbs of desiccant and then I have a separator like you do at the gun.
Cheers!
@@StevesProjectCarGarage I hope you get it sorted Steve. I'm thinking about doing another stage of drying as I didn't expect to see any moisturiser in the last trap at the gun. You can make a big difference if your shop is sealed and you draw air in at a low moisture content to start with. Also, don't be afraid to wait until you get the best weather conditions.
Kind regards Paul