How To Print Two Colors on the First Layer with a Single Extruder!
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 พ.ค. 2024
- Hello, 3D Printing friends! Today we're going to see a simple technique to get multiple colors on a single layer with a single-extruder 3D printer. This is GREAT for making signs or cards!
Did this video help you out, save you a bunch of time, or help you learn something new?
If so, please consider becoming a channel member, or buying me a coffee, or leaving a tip! Your support really helps, and is VERY MUCH APPRECIATED!
✅ BV3D Channel Membership: th-cam.com/users/bv3dchanneljoin
☕️ Buy Me a Coffee: www.buymeacoffee.com/5lKshEVvL
👍🏻 PayPal tip jar: www.paypal.me/bv3d
*️⃣ The BV3D Channel Storefront on Amazon:
• www.amazon.com/shop/bv3dbryan...
*️⃣ Popular 3D printer affiliate links:
• BIQU: shrsl.com/3s4hr
• Creality: shrsl.com/3qu2u
• Comgrow: bit.ly/33xcDtB [Check out the Creality REFURBS!]
• Elegoo: shrsl.com/3pu98
• FLSun: flsun3d.com/?ref=ifo73zup-gb
• Pergear: bit.ly/BV3Dpergear
• Sovol: bit.ly/3h90d2L
• Sunlu: bit.ly/3hGNzpQ
• Voxelab: bit.ly/3vVG9Wq
*️⃣ In the market for a magnetic flexible build system for your 3D printer?
💥Wham Bam Systems flex plates: bit.ly/2YzogLZ
As a Wham Bam Systems Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
*️⃣ Shop for just about anything:
🛒🇺🇲US: amzn.to/2x4hBxS [affiliate link]
🛒🇨🇦Canada: amzn.to/2Ycb5ju [affiliate link]
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
SOCIAL MEDIA
Follow me on Twitter (@bryan_vines): / bryan_vines
Disclosure:
I sometimes receive compensation such as discounted or free products, and when applicable, this is disclosed in videos and their descriptions. Whether free, discounted, or paid full price, any reviewed product is tested to the best of my ability, and I give my honest impression. All opinions expressed are my own.
#MultiColor3DPrint
#SingleLayerFilamentSwap
#PrusaSlicer - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
There are probably a whole bunch of ways to do this sort of thing. Do you have an easier way to do it? I'd love to hear it! Reply and let me know! 👍🏻
I use Simplify3D and you can do this with a multi-process print. But I really like what you did. I think PrusaSlicer is the closest to Simplify3D when it comes to ease of use. Love your channel. Can't believe you only have 7.3K subs. Don't worry, keep up the good work and they will come.
I was thinking I could just make a hollow and fill it in with hot glue later (or epoxy, effectively an enameling technique)
(EDIT: Yes I do this [below] and yes it totally works)
In my opinion it is way easier to just tell your slicer you have multiple extruders.
Now, the trick is that you don't really have to have multiple extruders, but you lie to your slicer (don't worry, your slicer won't hold a grudge). You also add a pause, or even a full filament unload command to your Toolchange Gcode in PrusaSlicer, or to each extruder's Start Gcode in Cura.
Then you load your print like a typical multicolor job. This means there is no need to carve out one model from another so that everything fits perfectly - instead you just use your slicer's handling of mesh overlap to define the intersection (in this case the text) as a different color. Again, both PrusaSlicer and Cura support this feature.
So when the print runs, the printer will automatically pause (and unload, if you set it up to do that) when it is time to change filament, all without messing around with multiple gcode files, post processing scripts, or any other tediousness.
Bonuses:
The multicolor job renders properly in the slicer preview, so you can check for accuracy and errors just like any other print.
You can take full advantage of your slicer's prime tower functionality, as well as other options for multiple extruders that are built in to your slicer.
You're welcome ;-)
@@thatguy5639 I am definitely going to try this soon. Thanks for this! 👍🏻
@That Guy do you have a noob version? I'm following most of it, but when you say things like "load your print like a typical multicolor job" what is your typical multicolor job? I'm sorry, but you wrote this as if everyone has experience adding pauses, toolchanges, multicolor jobs. None of it is typical or normal for people trying to learn more about printing.
Great for coasters with names in as well - and a TPU filament change two layers from the end means your coaster has a "soft bottom" 🙂 once you turn the coaster over.
If you want the text to be more than 1 layer thick, just be sure to set a z-hop to greater than the layer height, and the nozzle will happily jump over the text when it's time to print the rest. Otherwise, the nozzle may (likely will) drag through the existing text and mess everything up. Eg., Your card with a 0.2 mm layer height and 0.4 mm text, just set the z hop to 0.5 (or more) for the second print. The nozzle will jump over the text as it fills in the background.
Excellent tip, thanks! Could you please elaborate a bit more on how and where to get the printer to Z-hop? Being a bit of a noob here😊
@@Rob-kt7db just search for z-hop in Cura advanced settings
Was heading to the comments with this exact thought.
I wonder if "Avoid crossing perimeters" would also work.
love this tip! i am 93% certain this is the best method of 2 color first layers with single extruder!
LOL. Fun fact: 87% of all statistics are made up on the spot. 😉
@@BV3D I would have to say that I 64% agree with your facts
"No. There is another"
More like this👍🤓
OK! 😃
I use this method to make TPU patches and lables, works reallty well
I'm new to 3D printing but your tutorials are very helpful Bryan! Thank you a lot!!
This is amazing, very good tutorial - exactly what I was looking for!
I see that you're enjoying the usage of the 3Dfused Linear Bearing System. After seeing your installation I went ahead and purchased the X and Z-Axis kit along with their Direct Extrusion Kit. After the installation of the First Kit, I checked the dimensional accuracy of my Ender 3 and I was flabbergasted. Within 1mm side to side, something that you'll never obtain with Eccentrics and Urethane Wheels. After watching this video, you have me pondering the creation of the Lithophane Lampshades that I produce. Though it has turned into quite the head scratcher to print the the outline of the base in one color and the body into another using a single extruder.
Great design and walk through
Thanks for sharing :-)
Thank you!
Great idea Bryan! Nicely done. 👍
Hi Bill! And thank you! 😃
Realy helpfull, thanks for this tip!
I often do very similar operations using inkscape and openscad to make the STLs. Nice video and a great result too!
Hi John! That's cool - I've never used Inkscape, but now I want to go take a look at it. Thanks! 👍
Great stuff Bryan, I always enjoy a good TinkerCad tutorial. I also like your take on this technique for dual colours on the first layer, fantastic result!! Thanks for sharing!
Thanks, Thierry! I'm curious to see what else I can do with it. 😉
Have you thought of trying to make some phone or other electronic cases@@BV3D ? You'd get that nice finish on the side that matters. Might be neat!
Bright and clear! Thankss!
This was very helpful I will be trying this technique. I like how you spent time going into detail on everything not just the key bits.
This was a super helpful video. For weeks now I have been trying various methods to achieve the quality of fine text done using a silk screen technique, with text being a different color than the rest of the print. But they have all been lacking. This approach really worked. I will say its a bit tricky to get your two prints lined up correctly. However, once you spend some time on it and develop your own process the results are stellar. Even for 4mm high text. I found that its advantageous to use some type of registration mark in all 4 corners, at points outside the print area. Include those points in both prints and the slicer should keep things line up. I am using fusion 360 and couldn't immediately see how to do the alignment the ways its done in the video. Very good teaching style too.
Very clever and creative solution!!! Thanks!
Love this Brian! Thanks very, very much!
That's great, thanks Bryan.
Hi Cathy! Thank you! 😊
Thank you very much for the tutorial. 👌🏻
Great video!
great video.. I like your style and easy going manner.. No annoying music. Thumbs Up!
Like your printer!
That turned out amazing!!!!!!!!!
I already knew how to do that but it was fun watching you do it and explain it.print came out good to.
Thanks for watching, One Razz! This was new to me but it was a lot of fun to do. 😊
That is coooool! Will try sometimes!
Let me know how it turns out! 👍
Nice tip. I’ll have to give it a try when I disable the bltouch on my Ender 3. Thanks for sharing.
Hi Corey! I hope it works well for you! 👍
just disable bed levelling on second file by commenting out G29 in the gcode start codes or directly in the file
Thanks... new to this and it was easy to understand and watch... great job
A most excellent vid. It works very nicely, Thanks as always
Thanks Bryan. As always informative ;)
Well that was awesome Bryan. Thanks for the tip. Cheers, JAYTEE
Thanks, JAYTEE! This might be something you could do for your personalized name tags and stuff. 👍
@@BV3D Exactly. I have a project in mind that could benefit from 3 first layers 😂
@@JAYTEEAU Cool! Is it something you can tell me about, or is it something that must not be revealed until the world is ready for it?
Thank you very much. This helped me a lot. The only confusing part was the setting you used with x,y compensation. I use CURA and couldn't find anything like that in my slicer settings. However with that being said it worked perfectly for me. I used the z-hop setting in CURA to help when crossing the letters with my print head so it wouldn't hit the letters. Thanks again Bryan.
I do this with my MK3S and if the first color/text is only one layer thick, the PINDA can sense right through it and continue to level just like normal. It works great!
I'll have to give this a shot on my MK3. I was afraid the nozzle might collide with the first layer of the print when probing before the second print.
@@BV3D I do a 0.1 layer height for the first layer and it works well. The only thing I had to tune was the flow rate/filament overlap to get a good first layer.
Hmmm I will have to try on my mk3s, Thanks for the heads up.
Thanks B this video gives a crazy amount of ideas! Super cool thank you for sharing your knowledge brother!
If you have an ABL you can replace the G29 in your start g-code for the second print with an M420 S1. This will keep the Bed from re-probing (because you deleted the G29) and it recalls the saved mesh from the first print. YMMV But I just used this method for the QR Code I just printed.
Except G28 likely probes dead center on the bed. When I get to a PC and can type easier I'm going to post a suggestion that would work w/ S3D, but I need to look into doing it w/ PS.
G28 probes middle of the bed. So if possible don't have the model in the center
My solution is sort of along the same lines. You can just do a bed leveling run manually from the printer and then store that mesh in the EPROM. Then as long as you don't have the G29 code in your startup it will just use what you put in there before. I've had to do this when I run an old gcode from before I installed my BLTOUCH.
The second part listed below about not printing in the center also needs to be taken into account so the subsequent homing operations don't fail.
I think this all would work but it isn't an automatic solution which would be nicer.
We would love to see the hitch project as well. Awesome job
Thanks Michael! I'll be getting that one done in the next little bit. I'm having to redesign part of the hitch cover for increased strength. 😬
great video Bryan
Hi Zimmy! Thanks! 😀
What fantastic serendipity. I was just wondering how to do something like this. Many thanks for posting this 'tube.
Give this a try and let me know how it works out! Maybe try a small test piece first. 👍
@@BV3D WILCO
@@BV3D I tried it out today successfully, so once again many thanks for your excellent 'tube. However, my use-case was slightly different, so I had to adapt your technique. Specifically, the text I wanted to "emboss" was located towards one corner of the card component, not centrally (as in your example). So in Tinkercad I constructed a single layer "frame" round the outside of my text component - larger than the card component to avoid nozzle collision - and placed the text within the frame in the same relative location as the text would appear on the card. This ensured that they aligned perfectly during the printing process. I'm sure there must be a less hacky way to do this in the slicer, so some further investigation is on the cards. Cheers!
Great video, can't wait to try this along with other strategies to get this same effect on 3D prints :)
Sweeeeeeeeeeeeeeet. Thanks!
Awesome video. I am making some Catan tokens with numbers on one side and letters on the other. I have seen numerous ones where one side was flush and the other side was cut out. I have been thinking about something like this, but wasn't sure how it would look with just one layer. Yours looks amazing.
Brilliant!
I liked your results, so I tested this on my brand new Bambu Lab A1 with Overture Silk White and Silk Gold. I set the gold piece with a height of 0.2mm and the white piece 3mm thick. The text hole on the white piece was 0.2mm deep.
I found the X-Y Size Compensation in the Bambu Studio Slicer but for the first test I left it at 0.
Printed a small 30x40x3 sample and the result was interesting, but at the same time disappointing. It basically looks like the gold text is covered with a very thin layer of white. Kind of like the white got between the gold text and the plate.
Nice. Looks great! I have a mmu2 but this is so simple it would work great on my other printers! Im going to try it
The have an MMU2 as well, but it is still in its box, unassembled. 😳
The mmu2s works great. You should put it together and try it lol. Either that or send it to me and I'll put it on my other mk3s ; )
It is kind of a pain because you have to completely disassemble your extruder to install it. I got use to mine by using it to do one color at a time. But that helped me get all the settings in place to make it work great. After the upgrade I had to buy another mk3s for flexible filament and some others.
Perfect! Exactly what I was looking for, though I'll hunt a little more since I have an auto-leveller. :)
Thanks for this video Brian. First time viewer and I love it. If you don't mind please, any suggestions about settings when printing small letters, like for example the "the" in your card? i use Cura, so I also need to figure out how to use this in my slicer :-)
That is so cool
Thanks Paul!
thanks for a good tutorial bryan :)
Very witty, nice work!
Thank you, Randy! 😀
Great technique Brayn can't wait to try this!! I built an enclosure for my Ender 3. I am only printing PLA but I want to protect the print from dust, moisture, etc. What would be the ideal temp for the insider the chamber?
Great vid, as always! I'm using Cura12 and would like to try this out. Where is the XY Comp to mimic the Prusa advanced setting?
That is cool 👍😎👍
Hello and thank you, Cosmo! 😊
Thanks for the video, Bryan... It was very helpful for me today. I did try to do this with a couple of different printers, 2 of which have BLTouch probes, which causes some interesting issues related to homing of the second file. Also, I tried it with Cura, PrusaSlicer, Creality Slicer, and OrcaSlicer with varying results. The best result came from my Ender 5, which doesn't have a probe. I had to use Inkscape to create the SVG file for the logo I needed and then 123D Design to convert the SVG to a STEP file and then I loaded the STEP file into DesignSpark Mechanical to make the other STL.
UPDATE: To get around the problems caused by the BLTouch, I sliced both of the STL files into gcode and then I edited the main file and added the smaller gcode file with the logo to the larger main file and I put an M600 command between them. The added benefit is there is only one homing sequence performed and you don't have to worry about a bed leveling sequence getting in the way.
Interesting, I've also had issues with my BLTouch hitting the first print and I was wondering how to get around this...THANKS!
This is a really good tutorial, not sure I can adapt it to what I’m working on as the first layer has black text and blue text. So would need to do the text in to separate prints then the background colour, but I guess if have two separate stl files for each text colour, then use the cutout method for all the text on the background it should work?
What filament did you use for the trailer thing? Since it’s for outdoor use rain/UV, etc.
Thanks
Hi Bryan. Another great video. Do you have any hints as to how to go about printing multiple "cards" at the same time? Is it just a matter of making sure each card/text pair are at the same co-ordinates. So for two cards, the first might be at -50,0 and the second at +50,0?
I use Cura, so for the size compensation would I just add 0.1mm to each of the X and Y axes in the Scale Model tool? (Using your example).
Hi Ron, it might be easier to duplicate and arrange the card and text in Tinkercad.
Starting with a card which has the text cut out, center and group it with the separate text piece. That keeps the two of them together.
Then duplicate that combined card & text 8 more times, so you have nine. Arrange them in a grid that would fit on your printer.
Ungroup each card & text combo, then select just the text pieces, and make a group out of them.
And select just the card pieces, and make a group out of them. They *should* still align properly when the text group and the card group are centered with each other.
So you should end up with 9 cards that have the text cutout, as a single grouped object, and 9 texts as a single grouped object.
You can confirm they align by selecting both the cards and the text, and aligning their centers.
If they do, then export the card group as an STL, and export the text group as an STL, and you should be good.
As for Cura, just make sure when you're using the size compensation, you're going in a direction that enlarges the opening for the text. The setting in PrusaSlicer needed a negative value to make the opening larger.
Best of luck!
Great video the only problem I had was that my first layer height was set for 0.24 luckily I notice before I printed I will probably have to adjust my ender 3 bed to compensate ? Thanks again for your great video .
Good catch on the first layer height. 👍 I used to have my first layer set to 0.24mm no matter what the rest of the print was set to, but I went back to a 0.2mm first layer height. You *might* need to tweak the bed just a smidgen, but it will probably be OK.
@@BV3D The print I made looked great without adjusting the bed height but not on my Ender 3 as when I made the colour change there was a slight layer shift . So I used my prusa MK3s with the 0.20mm Quality preset with a couple of your suggested changes with very pleasing results . It was the first time I had used Tinkercad as I use Fusion 360 but I'm a complete novice with CAD software so it took a long while to compete the STL files but I got there in the end. More videos like this would be great thanks. Almost forgot to disable mesh bed leveling on prusa preset I just deleted this > G80 ; mesh bed leveling in the start g.code easy !
Very useful! What was the total print time and how fast total speed would you dare print this at? Thinking of doing a quick text only card at a show. I will have 3 Ender 3 machines running.
Hi Ronny! It was probably about 30 minutes total, including the filament swap. The text took about 6 minutes to print. I'd say print slow for the text part. I was running it at about 45mm/s, but if you have smaller text, you might want to slow down to about 20mm/s.
I use Cura 4.10.0 on iMac. Where is this setting (x y compensation) on Cura? I want to try two color job.
Hi Jesse! Look for Walls > Horizontal Expansion. Not sure if you need to go positive or negative with the value. Experiment and see! 👍
Qeustion it looks like near the end once the z axis for the card was even with the z axis for the text you printed on top of the text print to give the back of the card a solid look was I seeing that correctly
Can’t find the XY adjustment in the advanced slicing. Do I need to update my prusa slicer? Running 2.2.0
Do you know if the auto bed leveler mod for the ender 3 v2 will prevent me from doing this?
Since you were able to "raise" the "hole" rectangle
.2 mm above the bed level to make all the letter heights the same,
It stands to reason you could "raise" the height of the printed letters to 1mm.
could I make my automatic bed leveling system adjust the Z axes on the corner of the bed and not in the midle where the print is?
Can this technique be done on Monoprince Maker Select Plus?
What kind of printer are you using in the video. I am asking knowing I'll have to dile it in and upgrade stuff Also have you figured out how to change the g code for a file. so it can be printed on a prusa that uses the mesh bed leveling
nice
Thank you! 😀
Any tips/tricks for when it's not aligning in cura?
Hi is it possible to print multiple colours in the first layer in the bambu lab x1 carbon? Thanks
Im curious about the same thing. I have three colors that I want to use, but lining them up may prove difficult
Is it possible to do 3 or 4 colors with this same method?
Wouldn't it then be possible to print different items at different thickness on card too?
Nice video, but I have a problem, my printer a Prusa Mini before printing any model check the bed in 16 points, if I have an object in the middle I don't know what's happens, anyway, thanks.
I guess I cannot do that with my prusa mini since it always mesh levels the bed before every print...
Isn't a Z hop necessary to jump over text and not hit it?
If your process is like Tier 1 support then this method is probably Tier 2 complexity; turned out more detailed than I thought when I started typing. It gets around the homing issue for contact probes like BLTouch. I just looked and the new beta (2 days ago) mentions sequential printing in the changelog so maybe it's possible. I haven't seen it in alpha4; maybe it's not there with single extruder profiles. I'll comment if I figure it out.
I can't find an option in PS to do this, but in S3D you can place both STLs in the plate each with its own process (since you want different colors anyway). Set the text to the first process and the card to the 2nd. When you go to slice, S3D throws a dialog with the option to print layer by layer or sequentially. The latter gives you the option of a Z height to print before switching processes. Set the value to 0.2mm in your case. Save the file. That's the easy part though. Next you need to open the gcode file (only using Notepadd++, others can corrupt the format) and add the code to let you change the filament. S3D it will "tag" each process with a comment using the process name. Look for that in the file and place M600, or your filament swap code of choice, before the line containing the process comment.
Best I can tell after only looking at this for a few minutes is that it will only work for single-layer projects like your example.
Found sequential printing option. It's in the Print Settings tab under Output Options. Checking how it behaves and will report back.
Wow, that was detailed. I may be able to do something similar in PrusaSlicer if I can figure out a couple of good “landmarks” in the G-code files. Then I can splice the text and the background G-code files together with an M600 in between, so the printer pauses for a color change. A few others have mentioned doing it this way. For simplicity’s sake, I was going for something that would not require splicing files. 😁
But file splicing could make an appearance In a future video. 👍🏻
@@BV3D I've seen it done on one other YT video, but it was for making multiple copies of the same file. The part was printed once per print then the print head was used to knock the part off and start again. I might be able to do that w/ PEI, but with the Cmag that came with my Ender 3 something would break.
@@BV3D not having any luck so far. Keeps giving me a parts are too close error no matter what values I've tried in the Print Settings tab. No error when I separate the parts by auto-arrange though. I'm going to try the Beta release now, but not holding my breath.
I did confirm (so far) that unlike what the S3D documentation (www.simplify3d.com/support/articles/multi-part-printing/) indicates, process 1 printed 1 layer, process 2 printed 2 layers, then process 1 finished its 2nd layer, then process 2 finished its several layers. Not sure what I or the slicer got wrong. It didn't make a difference whether the 2 objects were stacked or auto-arranged.
What's funny is I could have sliced both objects and spliced the 2 together by now. At least S3D will work as I indicated earlier for 1 layer thick filament swaps.
@@BV3D no joy with the beta version either. I'm either missing something in the settings or the slicers (both) just can't handle a simple operation as their documentation indicates. *bummed*
I posted in both slicer groups on FB for help/suggestions.
You never double checked that both files lined up perfectly. Will your slicer always do that? What about Cura?
I just printed the text and would like to print a card around it...but the printer will calibrate with the text on the plate.
That has to mess something up, right?
How to approach this?
Hello Guys, mayby someone can help me. I want to print Nameplates with 2 colors. I use the latest Jyers Firmware, Octoprint and Cura. How can i Change the Filament mid Print? Should i use Filament Change or Pause on Layer in Cura? And what G-Code should i Insert in Octoprint for Pause/Resume? Or is there a other way to do that?
Hi Bryan,
you can also set the first layer for the text to 0,1mm and go over it with the Card layers with a first layerhight of 0,2mm. This way you dont have to cut out the text geometry from your card.
btw, I am a long term S3D user, do you think its time i make the switch to Prusa Slicer, or still pretty similar?
PrusaSlicer is evolving at a blistering pace compared to S3D these days. If you haven't tried it, there is no risk in giving it a look. The current 2.2.0 beta now includes a profile for the Ender 3 as well.
I agree. Prusa slicer is the best. It works great woth my prusa printers and works great with my other printers. Im running 2.2 alpha 2
@@HackMonkey its just the learning curve Im worried about, I am soooo used to S3D
@@WhamBamSystems PrusaSlicer is pretty straight forward. There isn't the slew of buried options like Cura, and I think it is easier to get your head around than processes in S3D, if you haven't used S3D. But sure, everything new has a learning curve.
Give it a try, Peter. It's free and it's not too hard to use. You don't have to switch completely -- it's always good to have more than one slicer on hand. 👍
So confused. Step 1) Learn TinkerCAD. Step 2) Watch this video 10 more times.
Thank you Bryan
Rocking the linear rails, but still on stock cooling fan. If it works who am I to judge. :)
I’m exploring some cooling options. A video will probably happen once I have all my ducts in a row. 🤣
@@BV3D always good for a dad joke. bahahaha
BV3D: Bryan Vines The hero me fan duct worked great for me with the linear rails. It only required minor modification to the base.
If you use Z-Hop, you are not limited to the first layer.
Great video! Really enjoyed rhe content, very useful. I know they say use your hands to talk but all I could focus on was your hands flying around and I have a headache now.
I've tried to import the card model into both Cura and PrusaSlicer but neither one shows the cutout text in the preview - only a solid rectangle. Anyone point me to what I'm doing wrong?
Hi Joseph! When you grouped the hole-type text with the rectangle, did it cut the text shape out? And was the text shape one layer tall? (I print with a first layer of 0.2mm, so that's how tall I made the text).
@@BV3D yes sir. I could see the cutout in TinkerCad. After importing the model into Cura/PrusaSlicer, it disappeared. I attempted to go through the Slicer settings, but failed to locate any obvious issues.
If you like, I can share my STL files with you, and you can see if they behave any differently in your slicer.
@@BV3D that would be great. Thank you so much for the help.
@@Killa_Prints I'm sorry about the delay. Here is a link to the files! bit.ly/38lfYMn
Now i need a way to figure out how to disable ABL everytime...
You use Tinkercad like I use Mattercontrol
Does not work on Cura Slicer
Man, I thought I was sooo smart and original when I did this :( guess not.
Hi Wilson, I felt the same way when I did this, and then I released the video, and found out a bunch of other people had done the same thing. So don’t feel like you aren’t smart or like you’re unoriginal. They say, “Everything’s already been done before,” but nobody’s done it exactly the way you have! 👍🏻
An EASIER WAY TO DO IT!
Ar 3:28 you made the z of card 1 mm. At 4:44 you made z of letters at
.2mm.
Why not set bottom of letters starting level NOT at bed level but at instead at 1mm (the thickness of the card.)
Print card first.
Then print the letters not reversed. I expect it to fit perfictly on top of the card. What say you?.
Anyone else think a Christian Prince video was playing in another tab? At 13:00 I was expecting "Hello everyone, peace of Christ to all."
quién come tacos con tenedor???
Great video!
Thanks! I'm still astonished by your "blister pack" business card. That was so cool! 👍