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I was looking for something like this, I was kind of disappointing of normal towers. You and the guy that did the site save me a lot of time. If I didnt find anything like it, ill do it by myself. THANKS a lot, subscribed btw

Can you comment how to configure microstepping for the EZ2209 on the SKR 3 EZ in Marlin? It seems to default to 16 but the driver is supposed to be able to do up to 256 microsteps.

Is the black one a plug in replacement for the blue one without any mods?

Hi, I recently purchased an xe max, but I have a problem with the Z axis off-set, every time I do the oming, the nozzle is positioned in the center, but raised by about 3mm, every time, even if I the plan, I don't know what to do anymore, I can't print correctly, do you have any solut

I don't understand why is my KP3S's extruder is so hard to disassemble away from its motors like it's got some super magnet attached to it. All of the 3 screws have been unscrewed now because it's never been screwed at all when I have this printer. It's a secondhand btw. I don't even know how do I know this printer's KP3S's type of models if this mine is S1 Pro or the more basic one.

I just picked one of these up on eBay for $70, and I gotta say that I'm happy with it. It's a pretty reliable, portable work horse. I do often wish that the build plate volume was a bit bigger though too.

They probably don't know it

it took 10 hours but it built the default bltouch so I am now building the X5sa bl touch (from your last video) next ill try the Merin auto builder as they have added my printer to the examples but ill need to update the bl touch I think im happy to have a verity of bin files it shows stability from the build process as I seem to be the first to modify a X5sa printer with 3d touch for the most part. tronxy git code built without bltouch. the drop boxs takes a full 10 hours to build? even with -j4 so im letting my linux box do that now... I am having trouble choosing if im going to try your latest dropbox... i keep recalling the complex z offset calibration and want it to be all in the printer. I have some bad ground loop experiences in the past.

We saw youre face....not very interesting but did not see the connections HOW TO connect is to the board! No schematics drawn, nothing! Which wire where to hook up!

I'm looking to upgrade my TronxyX5SA With a 3D touch sensor. What I'm currently concerned about is that the Merlin firmware may not support the touch screen as per chatbot that should not be named.. Though I cannot find much mentioning of it. Apparently, the update process makes a screen go black. I'm not sure if that's permanent? Is the Merlin firmware vastly different than the original firmware? I'm planning on up The mesh correction test pointsn from stock. Can you make a video detailing the differences in the firmware?

Can't thank you enough for this! I had bricked my Tronxy trying to update to Marlin from other instructions. This got me back up and running. I went ahead and joined your Patreon to say thanks. :)

I just picked up a used tronxy printer brand new to printing, and I've spent a week trying to figure this shit out. 3 years old and still relavent. Thank you sir from one canuck to another. Cheers!

Can your printer make it interior hollow and still keep the exterior body strong?

cool man. great walkthrough. thanks.

My Tronxy XY2-pro won't Z off and keeps turning off and on . What is the fix

Thanks a lot. Great video

Why is it blue and black, where'd the 3 colors go?

how much time does it takes to print the head ?

Dude, you are a Life Saver! Thank you!

Good afternoon Jeff wanted to ask you a couple of questions can u get back to me regarding the 3d printing thank you

👍👍👍 this was supper helpful, thanks for sharing.

Hi jeff, i instal the BL Touch in mi Tronxy but the screen no on, plis help. Sorry for my english.

This is a lie there is nothing for the v10 motherboard this video needs to be removed

my issue is my SVG font file is over 400kb =(

Thank you so much!! I was unsure of how to choose the settings and how to interpret the result after.

Danke. Durch dein Video habe ich es geschafft meine Kamera zum laufen zu bringen. Sehr schön erklärt. Vielen Dank

Can't compile anything out of the F4xx-SIM480x320-firmware from the tronxy git hub, only getting errors. I've compiled a firmware based on the " TheThomasD Marlin-2.1.x-tronxy-x5sa-400 " and changed some code for the X5SA , but cant flash it , Printer ignores the .Ctb file. Tried connecting via STM32CubeProgrammer , but it wouldn't connect ( believe that the Cxy-446-v10-220413 Board doesn't have the boot jumper like other similar boards ) Starting to accept the idea that the original tronxy X5SA board can't be used for anything ( And I have two here) Should I trash them? I can't tolerate the original firmware

The N32 doesn't work with Alex's firmware and a BL Touch unfortunately. The second the probe hits the bed, the temp readings for both the bed and the extruder hit 0, which causes a "Kill printer reason - MINTEMP" error if you're printing. I would just make it so it doesn't even level the bed, but the BL Touch is now my Z axis sensor, regardless if acting as a bed leveler or a sensor.

Outstanding video. Watching this helped me solve my problem that I was having. Thank you.

Great pal, u gave ma great idea then; what if I switch from black to transparent, and then different shades of tranparent colors? And what if I move it to Sketchup or else and do a real 3D piece, look

I've done a very similar routine for my setup -except, I place a very small peg in each outermost corner of the build plate (if it's shorter than your first layer height, the slicer will likely not include them in the gcode - even if they do print, they're extremely tiny and easy to remove between prints). I then grouped all 4 pegs with the inset. I did all components the same way. That way, once I imported them into the slicer, all I had to do was center them. It saved me from having to go through the entire alignment process you shared here. - My way is completely separate prints per color too, though (make sure you keep the bed from cooling down between prints). This means you can do it on absolutely any FDM printer.

Geez, I can't concentrate on your video with that smoke decorator going off.

How do you make it rehome after swapping the filament? I can never get the old one out and the new one in without moving the x-axis.

Tried to download the files but it will not work the url file isn’t showing up. Can you please help?

There are some serious problems with STEP 3 ... It might perfectly work for single motor Z-axis, but how should I manually synchronously lift the bed when having the dual motor Z-axis? TronXY X5SA 500 Pro with Chitu FW.

Hi Jeff, thank you for sharing your knowledge with us. Much appreciated. I have the Anycubic kobra max and have had a bunch of small issues that prevent me from completing the project I got into 3D printing. One of them is the stringing I face with PETG. I ran this test and like the others cited, it does not get to a nice smooth line like you show in your print. On the heavy side it is like a protruding wall and on the best side it has the long curved upward strings. We don't get that nice flat side like you show. I'm sure we need to make an adjustment in the setting but what one and what direction?

Hi, will netfabb automatically repair it?

Yesterday I was afraid I had to buy a new board, one video later and my XY2pro is moving again. I wasn't aware I needed to flash a bootloader before the firmware, I somehow deleted that. Thank you so much and enjoy the coffee.

Thank you, Sir. I don't know what I would have done without you! Granted my SD card reader was messed, which i ended up fixing and now I am a pro at firmware flashing! Thank you for getting it out there. I have XY3SE 2E. If you have any suggestions on upgrades or firmware and where you have ended up now, please let me know! Thank you.

Thank you jeff, you are a godsend!

I am still a little confused, won't the print head have problems with 3 colours on the same layer?

Bed does not have to be level, it has to be parallel with the back and forth movement of the print head. There has to be a consistent distance from the bed to the nozzle. If bo the the travel and the bed are ad 45degrees, it would print fine. Level is just the convenient word we use, it is a single word as opposed to the multi-word description of what you are doing, but parallel would be a better description of what you are doing. But, other than this minor symantics, the concept is absolutely vital and you are 100% correct. And a very good video, I wouldn't change anything, Level is the right word, although not strictly correct.

Halllo, tou have original firmware kingron kp5 v1

Hey Jeff, awesome work! I’m inclined to try something similar with my tronxy crux 1, don’t know what to expect but I think your videos are going to help in my journey :)

wow. all this time suffering with this printer. gone. thanks so much. perfect prints every time now. great video.

Dude, change your smoke alarm battery. 🤣

Ive tried printing this thing 4 times and it just wont adhere to my bed. Prints anything else fine, minus the stringing issues, but the first line it tries to print just wont stick. Any ideas?

would love to see a video about the Disney font and how did you get the letters close to each other.

there is no legacy camera option in my updated pi os, in raspi config using command line , interfacing options, no camera mention anywhere, os was installed in March 2024 so is not old

I've been having problems with my XY 2 pro and went down a rabbit hole trying to fix it. I was getting the prints skipping position on the bed fore and aft like it was loosing the Y position of the motor and I was getting the blower shroud chewed up exactly like @7:45 in this video. I worked out that the problem was the offset adjustment nut on the underside of the print bed (which I had completely forgotten about) was no longer correctly tensioned, allowing the print head to sag down only a millimetre or two and that was enough to catch the blower shroud on the print job and causing the belt to jump teeth and loose the y axis position as well as completely mangle the blower shroud.