How to print different colors on a 3d printer

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  • เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 พ.ค. 2024
  • On this episode of Crazy Will Tech Show, I show you how to print different colors on a 3d printer. If you’re like me, you have one extruder on your 3d printer, that means one color at a time. But, you could do a filament change at a certain point during the print. Nobody wants to sit around and wait for a certain point of the print to do a color change. That’s where g code comes in. Using software like Ultimaker Cura and PrusaSlicer we can stop at a certain layer. So let me show you how to change color in Cura and PrusaSlicer on a Creality Ender 3 and a Disway so you can make multicolored 3D prints. This technique is great for signs, logos and anything else you can find on thingiverse that has layer change of color. Let me show you my technique for color change on 3D printer.
    Spider-man wall art (Single and MMU)
    www.thingiverse.com/thing:482...
    Filament Test Cube
    www.thingiverse.com/thing:216...
    Thundercats Logo
    www.thingiverse.com/thing:266...
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ความคิดเห็น • 61

  • @trent7078
    @trent7078 2 ปีที่แล้ว +7

    This mans energy and knowledge... I am ready to learn just bought my printer today and have already made so many different things thx man

  • @AlanDigiorno
    @AlanDigiorno 2 ปีที่แล้ว +9

    This was actually pretty sick and informative, thank you!

  • @abdulabdi585
    @abdulabdi585 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    clear, informative and cool! thanks man, helped me out alot!

    • @CrazyWillTechShow
      @CrazyWillTechShow  2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      There a lot of fun to print. Thanks for watching.

  • @SuperMichael996
    @SuperMichael996 28 วันที่ผ่านมา

    Now THAT is a "subscribe!" midroll animation :)) 5:00
    I went so quickly from "uuuuughhh Apple computer......." to "DAMN, GUY! :D"

  • @fendyranger4081
    @fendyranger4081 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Thank you for the tutorials..this is just awesome..👏🏽👏🏽

  • @x.soufriere
    @x.soufriere 5 หลายเดือนก่อน

    very clear and informative, thank you.

    • @CrazyWillTechShow
      @CrazyWillTechShow  5 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

      Thank you for the feedback, means a lot.

  • @timmcgaughey1284
    @timmcgaughey1284 7 หลายเดือนก่อน

    a very well made and informative tutorial!

  • @karolgolden231
    @karolgolden231 ปีที่แล้ว

    Crazy Will deserves crazy sub! Thanks a lot man!

    • @CrazyWillTechShow
      @CrazyWillTechShow  ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Thanks for the sub!

    • @karolgolden231
      @karolgolden231 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@CrazyWillTechShowYou’re welcome, Will! I’ve bought my printer 2 weeks ago and today I’m just about to finish my first print with two different colours. Super easy, thanks to you, man!

  • @JamesWard-ji6el
    @JamesWard-ji6el ปีที่แล้ว

    Thanks for your video it finaly made clear to me how to multi color my 3d prints

  • @e.m.6581
    @e.m.6581 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    The point of this video is that one can use Prusa and Cura slicers and others to easily find the correct layers and use the slicer to insert an M600 CHANGE FILAMENT gcode command. Please note that you can easily to this yourself with NOTEPAD or any other simple text editor. There are some pitfalls on the way. Once you insert the Cura change filaments you must remember to go back and delete the Change filament command or you will now see the CHANGE FILAMENT on every subsequent print until you first go crazy. The problem here is that the CHANGE FILAMENT message is identical to a FILAMENT RUNOUT error and if you are not prepared for the misleading message you may encounter a serious amount of anxiety. So my first recommendation to 3D Print manufacturers is to distinguish the CHANGE FILAMENT (software) message from the FILAMENT RUNOUT (hardware) message. Next if you decide to manually edit the gcode my recommendation is to add a
    M117 Please load the Gold Filament (or whatever other color you like)
    This should display the User Instruction on the LCD display. Unfortunately while this is clearly defined in the Marlin gcode instruction list, many 3D Printer manufacturers do not support this (ie my Snapmaker which does use Marlin totally ignores the M117 command and you never see the message. Next I like to edit the gcode myself and load in informative information that I can reference later. This includes a comment block header with Project name, part description, author, date, and notes about the specific gcode file.
    Finally there are other programs like Prusa Viewer and Superslicer which you may use to view the gcode part. And finally there is no substitute for great organization of all of your projects and files. I suggest a top down PROJECT folder with each project as drill down subfolders. I always keep the project folder on a specific work area on a work related disk or server. Then I use a project focused Thumb drive or SD card keeping exactly the same file structure. I try to be extremely consistent and predictable. And in conclusion it is more important that you pick up the elements that fit your style of work rather than mine, develop your work organizational style, and be consistent. This will help you enormously.

  • @scotts1356
    @scotts1356 ปีที่แล้ว

    THANK YOU VERY MUCH for this video. I just started 3d printing and didn't have a frickin' clue how to make something with different colors!

    • @CrazyWillTechShow
      @CrazyWillTechShow  ปีที่แล้ว +1

      That's awesome man. I'm glad I'm a part of your journey. 3-D printing is highly addictive!

  • @danpaukovits6154
    @danpaukovits6154 ปีที่แล้ว +5

    This was an awesome tutorial and I've been using cura for 3 years now but you have turned me to Prusaslicer. I had to modify my marlin to get it to work for the m600 command but I've encountered a bug that freezes the LCD screen at "Filament Change Please wait for prompt". It never leaves that screen and I have to switch the printer off, killing the print at the filament change. Has anyone encountered this issue before?

  • @stijn910
    @stijn910 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Hi William, Roel Dekker from the Netherlands here, Can you help me? I got a Creality CR6 SE 3D printer.
    If i do the same as you do in Cura my printer wont stop at a certain level.
    It will print the whole object instead of pause printing, so i can change the fillament and continue.
    If i choose the option pause printing than it will pause but i can't change the fillament because it says "you run out of fillament" and when i refill the fillament i cant start it up again.
    Please let me know what to do.
    Thnx in advance.
    Kind rgds,
    Roel Dekker the Netherlands.

    • @CrazyWillTechShow
      @CrazyWillTechShow  ปีที่แล้ว

      I’m not familiar with that printer settings. But I would try looking up g code commands, that would work. I would say it’s either the G code or certain G code functions that are not enabled in the printer.

  • @ianjay3794
    @ianjay3794 3 หลายเดือนก่อน

    How do I make sure that the second color filament will stick properly to the first one? I tried printing your cube sample but the second color easy snapped off.

  • @nelylicious1
    @nelylicious1 ปีที่แล้ว

    Very helpful! I use Cura and have the same printer, but when I’m changing colors I always seem to get a little blob extruded as it resumes the print. Ends up not looking like a smooth transition. Would you happen to know if there is a way to prevent that blob from happening when the printing resumes?

    • @CrazyWillTechShow
      @CrazyWillTechShow  ปีที่แล้ว +1

      2 things that work for me. Wipe The nozzle (which you probably already did) and make sure when you’re changing the color you don’t move the z access not even a little bit. You could also check the temperature of the filament that you’re using.

    • @nelylicious1
      @nelylicious1 ปีที่แล้ว

      Gave that a try and it worked out! Thank you so much! 😎

  • @charifetters9063
    @charifetters9063 ปีที่แล้ว +5

    Does everything you print have to be a copy of something you found online? Can I draw out/ create my own things and turn them into the colors I want? Can you show a video example of you making something from scratch and then printing it please 😊

    • @CrazyWillTechShow
      @CrazyWillTechShow  ปีที่แล้ว +3

      I got you covered th-cam.com/video/pp4G9Ac4PUU/w-d-xo.html
      Thanks for watching!

  • @AbhinayaChhetri
    @AbhinayaChhetri 9 หลายเดือนก่อน

    05:00 seriously that was one of the most creative subscribe reminder ever Hats off Boss😂

    • @CrazyWillTechShow
      @CrazyWillTechShow  9 หลายเดือนก่อน

      Lol thanks

    • @AbhinayaChhetri
      @AbhinayaChhetri 9 หลายเดือนก่อน

      @@CrazyWillTechShow haha apart from that, I used your technique and it perfectly worked for me, thanks a lot boss will be on the look out for more awesome contents and your other videos.

  • @BigMatway
    @BigMatway ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Thanks for the video!! For some reason my ender3 just ignores the script and goes all the way and finish the print. Any ideas? Should I update the firmware?? In that case, how do I do that? haha Thanks in advance

    • @CrazyWillTechShow
      @CrazyWillTechShow  ปีที่แล้ว

      That weird I have older ender 3 I would try some experiments and see why it doing that. What song are you using?

  • @Mac-xz6fj
    @Mac-xz6fj 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Great vid

  • @TheChrisdevour
    @TheChrisdevour 8 หลายเดือนก่อน

    You’re the man

  • @Der_Kleine_Mann
    @Der_Kleine_Mann ปีที่แล้ว

    Still after 4 years of owning my Ender3, I still have not done this, but I will definitely try it soon.

  • @crobilotti
    @crobilotti 10 หลายเดือนก่อน

    What about if you have a direct drive? Is it easy to remove without moving the z offset?

    • @CrazyWillTechShow
      @CrazyWillTechShow  10 หลายเดือนก่อน

      Direct drives better because you have a dual z access motor. Less movement.

  • @stickmanbrains
    @stickmanbrains ปีที่แล้ว +1

    What beds are those??? The material seems nice it's not sticking

  • @jurgenclaeys3366
    @jurgenclaeys3366 6 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Have done everything as you mentioned in your video on cura but my printer does not stop on the line set in the slicer . How do I solve this?

    • @CrazyWillTechShow
      @CrazyWillTechShow  6 หลายเดือนก่อน

      What printer are you using?

    • @jurgenclaeys3366
      @jurgenclaeys3366 6 หลายเดือนก่อน

      @@CrazyWillTechShow Neptune 4 pro

    • @CrazyWillTechShow
      @CrazyWillTechShow  6 หลายเดือนก่อน

      ​@@jurgenclaeys3366 looks like you need to update the firmware on your printer so you can added the M600 gcode script.
      www.reddit.com/r/ElegooNeptune4/comments/16l9c6h/neptune_4_pro_cura_filament_change/

  • @bryancampbell4604
    @bryancampbell4604 หลายเดือนก่อน

    How do you get it to not make those line? Like smooth it out?

    • @CrazyWillTechShow
      @CrazyWillTechShow  หลายเดือนก่อน

      Good filament and leveling the bed. You’ll alway have line with FDM printing. Here’s a video on how to smooth them out. th-cam.com/video/h2METhfTnTU/w-d-xo.htmlsi=zmWf5jm8DkfGircf . Another option is to get a resin 3-D printer. They print super smooth but not the strongest. I have videos on them as well.

    • @bryancampbell4604
      @bryancampbell4604 หลายเดือนก่อน

      @@CrazyWillTechShow Alright, thank you for the reply!

  • @gianinschneller5642
    @gianinschneller5642 ปีที่แล้ว

    If i do it with plusaslicer it always doesnt work fine if i put the file into the programm flashprinz to Print it with my adventure 3

    • @CrazyWillTechShow
      @CrazyWillTechShow  ปีที่แล้ว

      It sounds like different printer settings. I've noticed that other printers don't use the same language sometimes. For example, on my Fokoos the stop command is different in the gcode so I have to change it... Manually.

  • @sheriffVrc
    @sheriffVrc 8 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Can I do this with elegoo?

  • @richardsimmons6470
    @richardsimmons6470 9 หลายเดือนก่อน

    amazing and helpful but why the noisy background

  • @ichiharacam9134
    @ichiharacam9134 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    What about a figure standing up?