Hard start issue on a classic triumph motorcycle
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ส.ค. 2024
- Troubleshooting a hard to no start issue on my 1968 triumph 650 motorcycle. I already confirmed carburetor is functioning properly. I confirmed timing is correct. confirmed spark is good. now I'm going to check the valve clearance and stator . #triumphtr6 #triumphbonneville #triumphtrophy #triumpht120
![fellow fellow - PROUD feat. INK WARUNTORN [STRING QUARTET]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/BQrVkMPTdHE/mqdefault.jpg)
Problem solved. Stay tuned for the next video. Thanks for all the comments
Hi I’m an old guy that has had a number of old triumphs I noticed you twisting the throttle when attempting to start it, I was always told to never do that as it floods. Just make sure it’s primed with the tickler and give it some choke and leave the throttle alone
Another "old guy", with a harley, the accelerator pump is active, but without that, you have no vacuum to pull the fuel into the airstream if the throttle is open. I've had a sixty four triumph, back in the seventies, and currently have a 78, this with the electronic ignition. Mine died on the road, wouldn't start and the ignition rotor had come loose. Once reset, it was fine. I have had problems with Lucas coils going bad. A three ohm Harley coil is a good replacement for both coils in a triumph.
Triumph; makes mechanics out of ordinary men.
You, my friend, have been bitten by the vintage triumph bug!
Hahaha. Yes I have
Hahaha. Yes I have
I was bitten back in 77, never got over it. Just got a 78 Bonnie this spring, lots of fun this winter, lol!
In my experiences, if the basics check out OK -- battery, grounds are good, etc .
Then the problem is either a) oil gets on the points b/c the o-ring seal behind the shaft is bad and letting oil into the points compartment or
b) the coils are bad. The coils on these things will fool you, b/c when they are bad they will go intermittent. Spark sometimes, sometimes not. The internal insulation in the coils gets cracked that's what messes up the coils.
There is something else. The problem started to gradually get worse? These engines have a centrifugal filter in the crank, a sludge trap. If the engine has never been apart these traps get full and the rod on the left side starts to tie up. (This is the rod journal that's the furthest from the oil pump.) It tends to be gradual until it locks up or until you can't kick it over. If you can't spin the engine freely it will not start or stay running.
If the battery is good then the stator isn’t the trouble. The stator just charges the battery. Lay the plugs on the head connected to see if they are sparking. If you’re anywhere near mission, Texas let me know and I’ll come over and help you. Been working on British bikes since 1964 or so.
Have you tried a shot of starting fluid? It's a quick way to know if your issue is fuel related.
No but good call, I will tomorrow
since you have spark the stator and rotor not and issue try a bit of starting fluid to see if it tries I would clean the original carb especial the air jet setting it back to wear you started.
Good luck man! I just checked my valves on my 72 the other day and didn't have that tool and didn't trust my own judgement so I didn't adjust anything yet.
It's definitely easier with it. Good luck 👍
@@shedbillycustoms823 thanks man
My 1966 500 Tiger wont do diddly squat unless I free up the clutch plates by a few kicks with clutch in then press the tickler until fuel comes out and open the choke full, its about 3 kick start with throttle third open and close the choke down after half a minute (on good days!)
I’m starting to have to do the same
Not much on triumphs but I just bought one to do something different. Picked up a 70 t100 for 500
Set timing at 38 degrees before t.d.c. Once you remove the plug from behind the cylinders to check t.d.c, roll the engine back to the second notch on the flywheel by turning the rear wheel.This will be your 38 degrees before t.d.c. mark. Your spark advance on your points has to be held at full advance when setting up points. That would be a clockwise direction.Once running,check with a strobe on each cylinder. To adjust timing on the right side to get the 38 degrees you move the points backing plate. When you check the other side,leave the backing plate alone and just adjust the secondary plate on the points. Then giver.
Thanks bud. Great advice
during the video he mentions he has the trispark electronic ignition. not points.
Try soaking the spark plugs in petrol (gasoline ),then put a cap full of petrol down the spark plug holes .
Give the old girl a good kick ....hopefully it should start .
If that doesn't work try some easy start in the air filter .🤞
Good luck 👍
Take care on the road mate, peace out
I can definitely try that
I don't think flooding the combustion chambers and plugs with unburnt fuel will help, it will just kill the spark by earthing (grounding) it through the film of petrol on the surface of the insulators.
@@rickconstant6106 ,it can .....but as i have done what i proposed and i know that it works .
It wont earth out the plugs ,and it wont damage the engine .
I was told this solution by an old man who has done this for years .
Check the plugs are getting wet. Soak em in fuel or warm them up in the oven then install them in the engine.
I could try that. Thank you
I have new street triple Rs 765 2023 but sometimes it doesn’t start at first try. Why? The pump/ignition work correctly but when I try to start 1 time on 5 it fails. (Clutch is ok, neutral is in)
Did you check that you have the coils wired correctly...coming from the elec ign.. points...sometimes they can be crossed by mistake... To wrong cylinder also somebelec ign like 6v coils not 12 volt...it could be something like that...you will get there...I injoy your video....John...from lreland...
I did but good advice
If you've got more than 11v at the battery, it should start regardless of whether the alternator is charging, so I don't think that could be the cause. Have you checked to make sure the black/yellow and black/white wires to the ignition stator are connected the right way round, because if they are wrong, it will still spark, but the timing will be out, even if the rotor is in the right position during your static check? When you check the tappets, the normal procedure is to check the right exhaust when the left exhaust is fully open and vice versa, and repeat with the intakes. It didn't look like you did it that way. It may sound a silly question, but did you use the choke on the carb? As I understand it, those mk 2 Amals need it on a cold start, whereas the original mk 1 doesn't. PS. If you do replace the alternator stator, I would recommend going for the 3-phase version and solid state regulator/rectifier as it produces more power at lower revs. It works fine with the original rotor. Whenever you refit the stator you should check the clearance to the rotor (min .008" all round).
If you want to test the alternator windings, my good single phase stator has 0.5 ohms resistance between the 2 output wires, and open circuit between either of them and earth (ground).
Thanks Rick, ill check that out
@@shedbillycustoms823 Another thought has occurred to me - when you set the timing using the setting tool in the back of the crankcase, there may be 2 timing holes in the flywheel, one at TDC and one at 38 degrees BTDC, the fully advanced firing position. If you use the wrong one, it will obviously throw the timing out by a long way.
the stator has no bearing on the starting of the bike it just makes the electricity to run on
that's all.... No starting on a triumph is easy the pilot jet in the carb is plugged !
a small piece of junk has got into the super tiny pilot jet that is pressed in under the air fuel screw... if your real lucky you can blow compressed air into the fuel/air screw hole and blow it clear..... if not you'll have TO FIND A WIRE SMALL ENOUGH TO GO INTO THAT SUPER TINY HOLE.... I was un successful in that task, left without any other option I had to buy new carburetors for my 1977 750 Bonny.... it seams stupid to have to buy new carbs because the pilot jet is plugged but on these old monsters your not left with much choice
because the pilot jet is pressed in and cannot be removed ! ridiculously stupid for a company to do that but they did.... so I bought new carbs with removable pilot jets !
the AMAL carbs are a MARVIL OF SIMPLISITY AND RELIBILITY just KEEP THE FUEL SUPER CLEAN ......
Shame that you had to buy new carbs. Your old ones can still be saved. Directly across the carb from the air screw ,you will see where the casting is blanked to where an air screw would be . Drill out that casting to gain access to the pilot jet. You can tap out the hole and plug it with an old air screw,just cut it back and keep the threaded part with the "O" ring or just use a simple set screw with a thread sealant. This way you can have access to the pilot jet from both sides in the future.I just got done doing mine and it worked great.
@@derekcollins1972 what size bits and taps are we talking about here?
@@pauliebots Drill it out to accept a 1/8 npt tap and plug it. Or use a metric equivalent. It's just to gain access from the back side to clean. A plug of any type just to seal the hole and can be removed whenever you want to clean again.
Did you get gas into the carb before tried to start?
I did but the issue ended up being valve clearance and timing was a little off
Perhaps the problem is you've "done alot to it"?
R u using one 12 volt coil or two 6 volt coils.i would suggest that 1st
Thanks Jack. I’ll check
lol its British enough said haha
Are you sure a racoon hasn't been sucked into your carb intake?
Hahaha
EX 0.004 IN 0.002
Crap It's not even firing. Check your battery voltage It needs good constant volts with and electronic
Timing was off but definitely had me stumped
need to pull out the electronic ignition installation manual and go over everything to make sure it is set up properly.
lol .. no fule
that engine is 67
I thought so to but the engine and frame all match. It’s dated 68. Maybe a late production
@@shedbillycustoms823 if you look at the barrel studs 68 are 12 point also 68 got rid of the gearbox oil filler plug in the crankcase and put it in the kicker cover.
ill msg ya on insta
Thanks bud.