#10 is really important. learned this during my helicopter flying days. learn to instinctively shut off your motor before you hit anything. either by killing throttle or by disarming. this will reduce the damage to your craft(burnt esc) and whatever it's hitting.
Helis are so much more susceptible to damage because of the whole mechanical swash-plate array... Quads aren't like that. I came from helis and by instinct disarmed as soon as I thought I was gonna hit something. But no, I learned you can pull through, bounce off, throttle yourself out of a tree or even turtle-mode back.
Can confirm about learning to crash. In those events where you get caught in a branch, get flipped over, but the quad regains composure, it's so handy to at least be able to quickly flip over the quad so that the bottom bounces off the ground, instead of landing on an arm, or the GoPro, or even the battery. That quick reaction usually is what keeps me flying for a whole day usually!
Conformal coating is so damn important, not only makes the quad water resistant but also protects it from short circuits (components touching other components or touching the frame).
I have saved my quad several times by flipping my mode switch to horizon mode, releasing the right stick and punching the throttle when i fail a maneuver like inverted yaw spin.
@@EvenTheDogAgrees in fact, i have intentionally done a death roll until inverted, allowed it to free fall, and flipped the switch at the last second while simultaneously hitting full throttle... Only twice. Lol
@@Catiadr Hahah, reminds me of my drone buddy. We both got started at the same time. I'm still figuring out basic things like hovering in place, maintaining constant altitude as I fly around, gauging my altitude and speed from the view in the goggles, ... Meanwhile, he's already trying out various stunts. So while my drone comes back from our flights relatively unscathed, perhaps some nicked props, he's currently out of commission because he tried to fuse his drone with the concrete pavement through liberal application of throttle... :')
Drew that was one of the most useful - advice videos - I have seen for fpv. In particular the way you present the choice on weight of the quad and how you spend that weight on durability really gives an opportunity for us to think about how we spend the currency of weight.
I've had mixed results. Sunk one 3" quad in a puddle and it dried off and flew. Landed another in wet grass and ESC fried. I still use the coating though.
Is the conformal coating basically the same thing as never wet. I don't mean as in the end product being it doesn't get wet. I mean never wet leaves a white rough sandy feeling to what ever is coated. I've done a drone in it. And it works but looks like shit. Looks like it was coated with that Xmas tree frosting but thinner. So does it leave a noticable residue?
This video reminded me of some of the practical, money saving tips I got from y’all at Kwad camp. Thanks for helping me and everyone else enjoy the hobby!
I’ve been flying the same epiquad 210x for four years, with no frame breakage part from some heft dents on the front arms. Protects motors very well and is super solid
Great video content and thank u for teaching us how to make the drone more durable i think this tips are essential to the durability im going to make notes of them and implement them in to my daily flying again thank u for the tip.
Hey I use those skids, butt I add two of those foam pad on the back arms and it sticks up a little past the skids and keeps you going straight while sliding. Another is to put air mode on a switch. Then when you slide, throttle 0 and turn off air mode and it won't mess up having the quad try and fix what your doing. The props will just stop spinning. I have it on a toggle so it auto turns back on. Works awesome when going down a playground slide or something where it would be better to not having the props hitting things.
Rotor Riot died the day he became CEO and it flipped in its grave the day he dropped the original pilots and got in bed so deep with DJI it's all we see anymore... 🤣😂🤪
regarding battery straps, I further secure the strap with 1" pro camera tape. often times the strap is too short and this helps to prevent batt ejection.
1. I add a 1/2-3/4" band of double layer heat shrink to the ends of my batteries to secure the leads and act as a bit of a bumper. 2. My Tyro99 has narrow arms that are pretty fragile. I added a thin coat of epoxy and they seem to hold up much better. 3. LOCTITE YOUR SCREWS! I've now thrown two motors. That's how many motors it took me to start using loctite and check my motor screws before every flight (especially if you're using plastic skids under the screws). Love you guys!
I tried the foam that came with my Armattan frame. I tried the Ummagrip. The best thing I've found for holding the battery on is Velcro with sticky back on the batteries and the top of the quad. I've never had a battery eject or even shift position with the Velcro.
I‘am also using independent beepers like the vifly finder 2. It uses a separate little LiPo that also works when the main battery is ripped apart. Way easier to find a beeping kwad. 🤘
Bacon CheeseCake Manual triggering is only available with connected main battery. That makes sense because otherwise it automatically starts beeping if the main battery disconnects (through the integrated mini Lipo by itself).
Thanks for this (haven't finished watching yet lol), but I went through a string of really bad luck and have learned some things which help with ruggedization. You mention frames first - I couldn't bleevit, I finally fixed my drone after so many part fails, took off in street to test, zoomed up above trees, rolled - the friggin battery came unplugged (!#$#$*) and it smashed on the driveway - EVERY SINGLE pressnut on the RDQ Source one frame came out of the carbon, so I can't recommend that frame. Ok, gonna watch now and hope I learn some new things which I will apply immediately. Good to see you making videos. They are all good. Keep em coming, we are bored staying at home so much lol.
My favourite often missed tip is solder your wires on to your FC/4in1ESC backwards, so the wire is laying across the board rather than out from the board, helps the wires stop snagging on anything.
My list: Protect the RX antennas with zip ties and heat shrink. Give the batteries some extra padding by covering them with mountain bike wheel tube Try to attach your battery leads to something else than just the FC or 4in1 esc so the PCB doesn't have to take the full force of a battery flailing around in case of a battery ejection.
There's nothing much more to add to this list except don't be afraid to crash, my flying improved a lot once I let go of the fear of crashing. And building a armattan does help😬
😎👍 Very helpful I started fpv few months and everything going well, had some crashes and fixing flying it goes on & on, Right now I don't know why it happened Arming motor started very little bit of throttle like 15%20 Drone just went so High no matter what I do it keeps going I disarmed it very quickly (droped from15feet) Go pro mount was broken hopefully nothing happened more, after this I checked in beta flight everything looks good again checked flying good but why it's happened like that having no idea..
I have been using RC tire "CA Glue", aka black super glue, plastic wrap, good heavy bench vice with some C clamps when needed to laminate my parts back together and so far, when done right, its actually hard to tell that the part was ever broken in the first place. However, I do think there is still a point of no return and I am not afraid to toss a part in the trash. Recently I doubled up the top plate on my Cidora SL5 with this same glue and so far its has been pretty awesome at taking a hit and I don't notice the extra weight. I have since dropped the go pro for a runcam 5 orange and just yesterday started using my caddx tarsier but its looking like I might be going back to the go pro as getting the caddx on record and up in the air is too much work compared to just hitting a single button on an actual action camera but I do think the caddx footage looks really good at 2.k
This is exactly what I need lol. I bought an eachine trashcan. And then bought every piece of the trashcan 1 by 1 again because I have literally broken everything on the trashcan once.
I honestly thought when he said to cut one of the blades off of a prop I thought he was going to say something like, "Having one less blade spinning makes it less likely to cut a wire", but its actually seems quite a usefull tip
Don't forget the RX and its antenna(s)! For floppy antennas a la XM+, heatshrink them with a ziptie. For immortal-T antennas, might be a good idea to dab a bit of hot glue and/or epoxy over the part where the antenna protrudes from the 'T' housing, then heatshrink over them. Also don't forget to secure the u.fl connector that's usually used on the RX, especially when you've replaced the antenna and got rid of the yellow/white goop that secured the u.fl plug from the factory -- I find that a tiny dab of hot glue or a small piece of foam tape over the u.fl combined with heatshrink over the RX helps tremendously.
Two battery straps unfortunately are possible only for long "bus" design frames. All cube or toothpick style design frames simply don't have space where to attach second battery strap.
I agree. It also makes it easier to buy spares, e.g. buy 9 motors for 2 quads, and one extra arm. And when both quads break in different places you can switch parts so that you end up with one working quad and one doubly broken, while waiting for new parts to arrive. And you simplify tracking down what's broken, e.g. I recently burned a small resistor on an ESC and managed to find it by visually comparing everything against the identical working ESC I had on the other quad, and then comparing resistance measurements between them. If I didn't have two identical ESCs, I would probably have had to throw it away. The comments about "being rich" are exaggerated, in the long run you probably spend less building 2 identical drones. And you certainly get more flight time per dollar spent.
I'm really sad to see the 4in1 xrotor esc in this video, I have one the 60amp... At the first crash stop working without even one scratch :( 3 mosfet shorted (and the lipo fly away in the crash) I don't have any idea of what happen 💔
Battery 🔋 protection like foam, 3 battery straps or Tupperware that fits the battery perfectly it may sound lame but Lipo fires 🔥 are no joke! It also extends the life of your battery also makes it safer to charge😉👍
Route all cables carefully: - avoiding sharp parts of the frame - leaving just enough slack - do not expose then to the battery strap if possible - do not let them protrude unnecessarily, e.g. wire them "inwards" on the 4-in-1-ESC and then back out onto the arms instead of the shortest path.
I jus crashed upside down and my battery got a good hit to one of it's cells, without being ejected. Now I have to retire it. How to protect the battery from getting hit?
No¹ fly an Armattan! I haven't managed to kill any of mine from the 6" Tilt-HEX, 3" Japalura to my 4" Gecko there worth every penny in my opinion! 🥃cheers🍻
1:13 You would not believe how much I agree with this #1 tip. #2 would be motor durability for me but I haven't seen this while vid yet dudes and ladies.
Don't forget over sized motors and battery so that once you strap an old tire around your drone you still have the power to fly. Tires work great. When laid flat (the opposite of the orientation on your vehicle, with drone in the middle, the props can still provide thrust due to the hole in the tire. Sucks in thru the top and out the bottom. Think of it as one big DUCT. And call it a B.F. Goodwhoop Ducted T/A.
I would like to add that when I used cheap battery straps the battery was ejected during the crash as the strap broke. In my last crash due to buggy firmware on my Air unit freezing at close range I used a kevlar strap that managed to hold the battery on during the crash. The result was the 6 cell venting explosively while it was held tight against my quad burning out everything but two motors and my finder beeper.
@@JarredBaines Yes I downgraded my remaining Air units on v01.00.05.00 firmware to v01.00.02.00 and everything works great again. DJI told me they are aware of many issues and to wait for next firmware. Other issues include false SLOW SD errors, corrupted recordings and randomly chopped off recordings on Air unit and DISARMED text stuck on OSD after takeoff.
Yes listen to the guy before me, put a carbon fiver plate sandwich between bat and frame, just use any 1 or 2 mm plate that you have around ,make sure cover the bat,you b good for a while,yeah for a while
@@66g66g66g66g Silicone coating that does not interfere with electrical signal. You coat all the exposed electronics on your escs and flight controller and your quad is suddenly a lot more waterproof.
@@66g66g66g66g your Quad can actually fly out of a water puddle with no damage at all. One of my Quads is actually so waterproof now that i can not even press buttons anymore 😂
My first 5" quad was a E-Turbine TB-250 from Hobbyking years ago (search for the picture of one, it's hilarious), sure it has carbon fibre arms but it also has feet attached to the arms that stick out & catch on everything, and big triangle holes in the arms that ruin the strength (the reason for carbon fibre in the first place), hence why an arm did break easily. But I've got better at flying since then so coupled with the durability of current craft I break much less things :)
On a 2" whoop for example 12" wire-ties through the bottom and loop over the top making a sort of X with hoops connecting underneath. Wire ties come in all sizes I prefer the white nylon. I used it with a go pro on a R/C car using larger wire ties.
Mine I found lives longer if I mount the GoPro in a GroPro housing, with a aluminum GoPro base mount I bolt to the top of the frame. The ability to tilt back takes a lot of the force out of the impacts.
I guess it depends. A lot of times if I have a crash hard enough that I can't orient myself upright, usually a prop will have bent down and block the motor from working anyways, and the quad will tumble to the ground. There's also the inherent problem with the gyros on FCs that when they get bumped around (but don't crash), they lose their zero on horizontal, so even if you do flip on angle mode, it could still go sideways right into the tree or concrete building lol/
@@PortalFPV I'm not mentioning Tommy, I'm just talking about a Ummagrip which is in my book the best battery eject prevention ! But I guess you're right.
I’m one of those people that uses two battery straps but I plug in first and then strap it down so it shouldn’t come unplugged. It’s not as convenient as being able to plug in and out without loosening the straps but I really don’t want to come unplugged if I happen to crash on a rooftop or something and I’ve saved at least one quad with a GoPro that I couldn’t have retrieved if I wasn’t able to flip over and limp back 😂
#10 is really important. learned this during my helicopter flying days. learn to instinctively shut off your motor before you hit anything. either by killing throttle or by disarming. this will reduce the damage to your craft(burnt esc) and whatever it's hitting.
What? I thought I was the genius that came out with that, glad to know I have a twin 🤔🤯
Helis are so much more susceptible to damage because of the whole mechanical swash-plate array...
Quads aren't like that. I came from helis and by instinct disarmed as soon as I thought I was gonna hit something.
But no, I learned you can pull through, bounce off, throttle yourself out of a tree or even turtle-mode back.
Can confirm about learning to crash. In those events where you get caught in a branch, get flipped over, but the quad regains composure, it's so handy to at least be able to quickly flip over the quad so that the bottom bounces off the ground, instead of landing on an arm, or the GoPro, or even the battery. That quick reaction usually is what keeps me flying for a whole day usually!
yeah I just turn to Angle mode real quick
Conformal coating is so damn important, not only makes the quad water resistant but also protects it from short circuits (components touching other components or touching the frame).
Plush esc and the kk naza days taught a lot of us the basics great vid.
I have saved my quad several times by flipping my mode switch to horizon mode, releasing the right stick and punching the throttle when i fail a maneuver like inverted yaw spin.
Bingo, that's exactly what I do I have my finger on that switch the whole time
Absolutely, in situations where the FC has time to react, this is a great way to regain control.
@@EvenTheDogAgrees in fact, i have intentionally done a death roll until inverted, allowed it to free fall, and flipped the switch at the last second while simultaneously hitting full throttle... Only twice. Lol
@@Catiadr Hahah, reminds me of my drone buddy. We both got started at the same time. I'm still figuring out basic things like hovering in place, maintaining constant altitude as I fly around, gauging my altitude and speed from the view in the goggles, ... Meanwhile, he's already trying out various stunts. So while my drone comes back from our flights relatively unscathed, perhaps some nicked props, he's currently out of commission because he tried to fuse his drone with the concrete pavement through liberal application of throttle... :')
Drew that was one of the most useful - advice videos - I have seen for fpv. In particular the way you present the choice on weight of the quad and how you spend that weight on durability really gives an opportunity for us to think about how we spend the currency of weight.
conformal coating is my favorite - I just landed in a fountain two days ago...
I've had mixed results. Sunk one 3" quad in a puddle and it dried off and flew. Landed another in wet grass and ESC fried. I still use the coating though.
Hi
Bubby FPV sup bro
Is the conformal coating basically the same thing as never wet. I don't mean as in the end product being it doesn't get wet. I mean never wet leaves a white rough sandy feeling to what ever is coated. I've done a drone in it. And it works but looks like shit. Looks like it was coated with that Xmas tree frosting but thinner. So does it leave a noticable residue?
matt Wheat no, it doesn’t repel water just seals electronics. You can use clear nail polish too
This video reminded me of some of the practical, money saving tips I got from y’all at Kwad camp. Thanks for helping me and everyone else enjoy the hobby!
Im liking how you can now split the video into different sections on youtube that is a nice feature i never even thought about
Great tips ! Silicone conformal coating is a good idea as well . Also keeping a 3D printed GoPro mount on the quad is like a helmet for your quad !
I just dont fly with them. They last for years
lmao...
XD
Works for me
really great and useful video , even if a too heavy quad will carry more momentum and then brake more easely
It's a heavy quad for me when don't fly no more, fucket send it
I’ve been flying the same epiquad 210x for four years, with no frame breakage part from some heft dents on the front arms. Protects motors very well and is super solid
Great video content and thank u for teaching us how to make the drone more durable i think this tips are essential to the durability im going to make notes of them and implement them in to my daily flying again thank u for the tip.
Hey I use those skids, butt I add two of those foam pad on the back arms and it sticks up a little past the skids and keeps you going straight while sliding. Another is to put air mode on a switch. Then when you slide, throttle 0 and turn off air mode and it won't mess up having the quad try and fix what your doing. The props will just stop spinning. I have it on a toggle so it auto turns back on. Works awesome when going down a playground slide or something where it would be better to not having the props hitting things.
I miss those days this dude used to wear mascara RIP Rotor Riot...
Eye liner you mean
S Grim fair 😂
Rotor Riot died the day he became CEO and it flipped in its grave the day he dropped the original pilots and got in bed so deep with DJI it's all we see anymore... 🤣😂🤪
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
1- check ✔️ everything two times
2- training with simulators
3- prefer free flight before racing
regarding battery straps, I further secure the strap with 1" pro camera tape. often times the strap is too short and this helps to prevent batt ejection.
I like this guy he looks a little like drew
Very good tips all of them! One more is to use both double sided tape rated for outdoor AND use a zip tie to keep things secure
1. I add a 1/2-3/4" band of double layer heat shrink to the ends of my batteries to secure the leads and act as a bit of a bumper.
2. My Tyro99 has narrow arms that are pretty fragile. I added a thin coat of epoxy and they seem to hold up much better.
3. LOCTITE YOUR SCREWS! I've now thrown two motors. That's how many motors it took me to start using loctite and check my motor screws before every flight (especially if you're using plastic skids under the screws).
Love you guys!
I like to use a carbon fiber plate on top of bat, to get hard impact in the plate and not the batterie, by the way I also don't care about more weight
But when I cut one of the blades off of my props it gets all out of balance...... ;-)
I tried the foam that came with my Armattan frame. I tried the Ummagrip. The best thing I've found for holding the battery on is Velcro with sticky back on the batteries and the top of the quad. I've never had a battery eject or even shift position with the Velcro.
Zip tie the wires near the motor so when you break an arm, the wires will not strip off from the motor.
So, one simple question. 4in1 esc or single per motor? Wich is better?
I‘am also using independent beepers like the vifly finder 2. It uses a separate little LiPo that also works when the main battery is ripped apart. Way easier to find a beeping kwad. 🤘
How do you activate it?
Bacon CheeseCake It activates itself automatically when the main Lipo disconnects or you can trigger it manually with a switch on your radio.
@@hangtimeFPV Ah, interesting. If you wanted to activate it manually, wouldn't you have to have the seperate lipo also power the reciever?
Bacon CheeseCake Manual triggering is only available with connected main battery. That makes sense because otherwise it automatically starts beeping if the main battery disconnects (through the integrated mini Lipo by itself).
Thanks for this (haven't finished watching yet lol), but I went through a string of really bad luck and have learned some things which help with ruggedization. You mention frames first - I couldn't bleevit, I finally fixed my drone after so many part fails, took off in street to test, zoomed up above trees, rolled - the friggin battery came unplugged (!#$#$*) and it smashed on the driveway - EVERY SINGLE pressnut on the RDQ Source one frame came out of the carbon, so I can't recommend that frame. Ok, gonna watch now and hope I learn some new things which I will apply immediately. Good to see you making videos. They are all good. Keep em coming, we are bored staying at home so much lol.
Awesome content! Thank you
Anche dall'italia siete super seguiti‼
ROTOR RIOT 🔝🔝🔝👍
"Science holes do not make a frame durable." I'm Jelli FPV, and I missed my math test today.
They're not 'science holes' they're 'speed holes', they make the craft go faster th-cam.com/video/whnms4CLJys/w-d-xo.html
@@licensetodrive9930 sounds like science holes with extra steps
Some structural "holes" increase strength.
Gday Drew, great advise, nice work mate.👍🛸
My favourite often missed tip is solder your wires on to your FC/4in1ESC backwards, so the wire is laying across the board rather than out from the board, helps the wires stop snagging on anything.
My list:
Protect the RX antennas with zip ties and heat shrink.
Give the batteries some extra padding by covering them with mountain bike wheel tube
Try to attach your battery leads to something else than just the FC or 4in1 esc so the
PCB doesn't have to take the full force of a battery flailing around in case of a battery ejection.
man there is a bucket load of good advice in this video
There's nothing much more to add to this list except don't be afraid to crash, my flying improved a lot once I let go of the fear of crashing. And building a armattan does help😬
good advise
on stack
😎👍 Very helpful
I started fpv few months and everything going well, had some crashes and fixing flying it goes on & on, Right now I don't know why it happened
Arming motor started very little bit of throttle like 15%20 Drone just went so High no matter what I do it keeps going I disarmed it very quickly
(droped from15feet)
Go pro mount was broken hopefully nothing happened more, after this I checked in beta flight everything looks good again checked flying good but why it's happened like that having no idea..
I have been using RC tire "CA Glue", aka black super glue, plastic wrap, good heavy bench vice with some C clamps when needed to laminate my parts back together and so far, when done right, its actually hard to tell that the part was ever broken in the first place. However, I do think there is still a point of no return and I am not afraid to toss a part in the trash. Recently I doubled up the top plate on my Cidora SL5 with this same glue and so far its has been pretty awesome at taking a hit and I don't notice the extra weight.
I have since dropped the go pro for a runcam 5 orange and just yesterday started using my caddx tarsier but its looking like I might be going back to the go pro as getting the caddx on record and up in the air is too much work compared to just hitting a single button on an actual action camera but I do think the caddx footage looks really good at 2.k
I love rotor riot!!!!
Me too. :)
Drib you go really hot on the heatshrinks :D
I love my skyeliner. Waiting for arms to be back in stock. I’d love to find bumpers to fit it.
Nuxx if ya cant find any, i can print em for ya for a few bucks man, just look on thingiverse.com n email me RRMORGAN2007 at gmail
This is exactly what I need lol. I bought an eachine trashcan. And then bought every piece of the trashcan 1 by 1 again because I have literally broken everything on the trashcan once.
Drew just takes my quad and smashes my antennas all up. Sheesh. Lmao.
Love ya, buddy. 😆
”Shawn it’s for the visuals man I got to have those sweet visuals” -Probably Drew
Rcade FPV lol. Yeah. He didn’t do anything close to what I do to it when I fly, lmao 😂
Just started fpv, how can you mount a double vtx antenna on your drone? Thanks in advance for the answer
I honestly thought when he said to cut one of the blades off of a prop I thought he was going to say something like, "Having one less blade spinning makes it less likely to cut a wire", but its actually seems quite a usefull tip
You kidding me, flying with 2 blades out of 3 is the best 🤣
This tip actually reduces the chance of cutting a motor wire by 1/3rd.
Don't forget the RX and its antenna(s)! For floppy antennas a la XM+, heatshrink them with a ziptie. For immortal-T antennas, might be a good idea to dab a bit of hot glue and/or epoxy over the part where the antenna protrudes from the 'T' housing, then heatshrink over them. Also don't forget to secure the u.fl connector that's usually used on the RX, especially when you've replaced the antenna and got rid of the yellow/white goop that secured the u.fl plug from the factory -- I find that a tiny dab of hot glue or a small piece of foam tape over the u.fl combined with heatshrink over the RX helps tremendously.
You should make an episode with flywheels as props. with an outer right around the blades, I wonder if it would create more lift at high speeds.
Battery ejection happened to me so often and i lost my wizard x220 that way, as there was no beeping .. now I know ;-)
Nice haircut 👍🤙
Two battery straps unfortunately are possible only for long "bus" design frames. All cube or toothpick style design frames simply don't have space where to attach second battery strap.
Tip, build 2 identical drones so you dont have to do fieldrepairs.
Genius, or stop paying child support for next BUILD
Why stop at 2, ménage à trois!
They wouldn't even have to be identical. And yes, most serious drone pilots have multiple drones for exactly this reason.
Tip: just be richer
I agree. It also makes it easier to buy spares, e.g. buy 9 motors for 2 quads, and one extra arm. And when both quads break in different places you can switch parts so that you end up with one working quad and one doubly broken, while waiting for new parts to arrive.
And you simplify tracking down what's broken, e.g. I recently burned a small resistor on an ESC and managed to find it by visually comparing everything against the identical working ESC I had on the other quad, and then comparing resistance measurements between them. If I didn't have two identical ESCs, I would probably have had to throw it away.
The comments about "being rich" are exaggerated, in the long run you probably spend less building 2 identical drones. And you certainly get more flight time per dollar spent.
thank you soooo much 🙏🙏🙏🍺❤️
I'm really sad to see the 4in1 xrotor esc in this video, I have one the 60amp... At the first crash stop working without even one scratch :(
3 mosfet shorted (and the lipo fly away in the crash) I don't have any idea of what happen 💔
Battery 🔋 protection like foam, 3 battery straps or Tupperware that fits the battery perfectly it may sound lame but Lipo fires 🔥 are no joke! It also extends the life of your battery also makes it safer to charge😉👍
Make your quad water proof. Use pvb60 or MG Chemicals. Thanks for sharing. Cheers!
Nothing can stop my wraith of my fingers slipping off the sticks.
Jelli FPV get super spikey stick ends
I learnt to hybrid pinch, solved that problem for me.
pinch or hybrid pinch is the solution. That's actually one of the most important lessons. Learn to pinch.
Try flysky i6x it has the best grip
Route all cables carefully:
- avoiding sharp parts of the frame
- leaving just enough slack
- do not expose then to the battery strap if possible
- do not let them protrude unnecessarily, e.g. wire them "inwards" on the 4-in-1-ESC and then back out onto the arms instead of the shortest path.
How about aluminum use aluminum screws for the motors?
i like the last tip, i usually just impact cam first at mach 5
When mounting your battery on the bottom of your kwad 3d print a plate for it. On thingiverse there are some that even include a angle stand.
Anyone knows the heat gun model or brand, looks quite handy rather than the regular oversized ones.
Happy flying.
Bruno Costa its called mini hot air gun, they cheap
I jus crashed upside down and my battery got a good hit to one of it's cells, without being ejected. Now I have to retire it.
How to protect the battery from getting hit?
I put a zip tie between flycontroler and frame ,with ESC between, to hold the flight stack in place in case of crash
Wait, so the zip tie holds the FC to the frame? That's gonna add some vibrations I would think right?
Him: Talking about durability
Me: sitting in the corner with a tiny 95mm pusher drone
hah, I learned something today oO thought I would build tanks already, but the heat shrink around the antenna was new to me. Noice
halitic fpv it will add durability but changes the SWR so decreased performance
Drew try on ur next build coating a layer of super glue on the edges of the arms really helps with the delamination an splitting of the ends
No¹ fly an Armattan! I haven't managed to kill any of mine from the 6" Tilt-HEX, 3" Japalura to my 4" Gecko there worth every penny in my opinion!
🥃cheers🍻
nevver buy iflight xl7 v4 the arms are so fragile they start cracking where the arm meets the frame just infront of the first crew ,,
How about coating electronics with hydrophobic layers to save some money on water damages? Like Parylene-C or some lacquers.
1:13 You would not believe how much I agree with this #1 tip. #2 would be motor durability for me but I haven't seen this while vid yet dudes and ladies.
Thanks a lot.
Don't forget over sized motors and battery so that once you strap an old tire around your drone you still have the power to fly. Tires work great. When laid flat (the opposite of the orientation on your vehicle, with drone in the middle, the props can still provide thrust due to the hole in the tire. Sucks in thru the top and out the bottom. Think of it as one big DUCT. And call it a B.F. Goodwhoop Ducted T/A.
I would like to add that when I used cheap battery straps the battery was ejected during the crash as the strap broke. In my last crash due to buggy firmware on my Air unit freezing at close range I used a kevlar strap that managed to hold the battery on during the crash. The result was the 6 cell venting explosively while it was held tight against my quad burning out everything but two motors and my finder beeper.
Sorry to hijack but;
Did you solve the range issue? Downgrade firmware?
@@JarredBaines Yes I downgraded my remaining Air units on v01.00.05.00 firmware to v01.00.02.00 and everything works great again. DJI told me they are aware of many issues and to wait for next firmware. Other issues include false SLOW SD errors, corrupted recordings and randomly chopped off recordings on Air unit and DISARMED text stuck on OSD after takeoff.
@@changeagent228 legend, thankyou! Good info
@@JarredBaines You're welcome. 👍
Is there any good ways to protect your batteries in a crash, they cost money and having them catch fire could be a problem
Put them on top lol
@@OscarTRob what if you crash upside down
Yeah true, idk tbh, they are pretty exposed aren't they
Yes listen to the guy before me, put a carbon fiver plate sandwich between bat and frame, just use any 1 or 2 mm plate that you have around ,make sure cover the bat,you b good for a while,yeah for a while
can you keep doing these types of videos please
love the haircut bro!!
Hey Drew, I cut one of the blades off my props to protect my motor wires... But now my quad flys like shit!? Any suggestions?
Gopros
Seems 3D printed mounts always destroy GoPro in crash , is a foam wedge better ?
Drew sporting the Coronavirus cut. Welcome to the club
Definitely forgot conformal coating
What is this?
@@66g66g66g66g Silicone coating that does not interfere with electrical signal. You coat all the exposed electronics on your escs and flight controller and your quad is suddenly a lot more waterproof.
@@66g66g66g66g your Quad can actually fly out of a water puddle with no damage at all.
One of my Quads is actually so waterproof now that i can not even press buttons anymore 😂
it improves durability but not repairability. Trying to solder onto a conformal coated board is a pain in the ass
My first 5" quad was a E-Turbine TB-250 from Hobbyking years ago (search for the picture of one, it's hilarious), sure it has carbon fibre arms but it also has feet attached to the arms that stick out & catch on everything, and big triangle holes in the arms that ruin the strength (the reason for carbon fibre in the first place), hence why an arm did break easily.
But I've got better at flying since then so coupled with the durability of current craft I break much less things :)
Tb 250, oh that thing is cool looking 0
Do another modding eachine wizardx220 video (especially best setup in betaflight)
Any way to get the CL1 frame from a dealership in Europe?
disarm right before you crash to help save your esc's just in case you burn one of ur esc's out
Second that. Also less likely to lose a prop
Yeah, always dis-arm before a crash or as soon thereafter.
Waterproofing is pretty useful... for grass and stuff
Hey I got a question, what goggles will work best if your blind in one eye?
Probably a good box goggle I would say.
What goggles are best if you're blind in both eyes?
Nice, thanks guys.
What happened to the conformal coating around your eyes?😆
Didn't say anything about action cams, and what measures we can take to make them survive just a little longer.
I made a hoop over with a large wire tie,
@@peregrineflow7354, am interested in your idea,but don't get it yet,can you Dumbit out for me please
On a 2" whoop for example 12" wire-ties through the bottom and loop over the top making a sort of X with hoops connecting underneath. Wire ties come in all sizes I prefer the white nylon. I used it with a go pro on a R/C car using larger wire ties.
Mine I found lives longer if I mount the GoPro in a GroPro housing, with a aluminum GoPro base mount I bolt to the top of the frame. The ability to tilt back takes a lot of the force out of the impacts.
old comment but if you use a 3d printed armor with glass nd filters they can survive a lot, and just replace the nd filter if it gets cracked
1:08 i like how theres no gopro on that quad lmao if there was a camera in that mount that would of ended it straight away
What about water proofing electronics?
that piece of prop for a esc cover is such a JANK way of solving lol
In a moment like at 12:45, how about turn on level or horizontal mode for the drone to level of self?
That's a great idea if you can remember anything right when you are friking out
@@axfpvalex1944 ahah I feel that pressure! But with training it might save some crashes!
I guess it depends. A lot of times if I have a crash hard enough that I can't orient myself upright, usually a prop will have bent down and block the motor from working anyways, and the quad will tumble to the ground.
There's also the inherent problem with the gyros on FCs that when they get bumped around (but don't crash), they lose their zero on horizontal, so even if you do flip on angle mode, it could still go sideways right into the tree or concrete building lol/
good tipps, thank you for that. I already did a lot of these, but apparently it did not swim🤷♂️
Heatsthrink reduces the radio transmitting power due do its ingredients. If you want maximum range: don't do this.
Why not mentioning ummagrip when talking about preventing battery ejection ?
@@PortalFPV I'm not mentioning Tommy, I'm just talking about a Ummagrip which is in my book the best battery eject prevention ! But I guess you're right.
@@PortalFPV this whole boyband thing gives me acid reflux.
Did you make this video in 2016 and just release it now ?
I built that frame @1:53...lol,comes in built auw with 650 4s exactly 249grams
I’m one of those people that uses two battery straps but I plug in first and then strap it down so it shouldn’t come unplugged. It’s not as convenient as being able to plug in and out without loosening the straps but I really don’t want to come unplugged if I happen to crash on a rooftop or something and I’ve saved at least one quad with a GoPro that I couldn’t have retrieved if I wasn’t able to flip over and limp back 😂
What the heck, is this a new youtube update? The video playbar is segmented into chapters! Woah!
TH-cam finally added another feature pornsites have had for years