Nice video, thanks for taking the time.. pun intended. So although the KWM machine was sold by American companies it is actually made in Germany by "Fabric Flume" as are their bushings. Your model is very different from the model I have but agreed all brands do the job very well. I appreciate the time it takes putting together a video as sharing helps us all learn something new.
@@BrackenClockWorks So I did research and I think here's where the confusion was. Looks like your bushing machine is K&D and you're using KWM bushings. I was thrown off by your mention of KWM. The K&D is American made after all. Guess I've learned something else new too. Had to set the record straight lol.
I just bought a K&D machine with all the reamers etc. Nice to see some footage of one in use. Question; why not use a smoothing broach after you have your bushing to where the pivot will fit? Thanks for posting all of this series.
During the time of this video, I didn't have smoothing broaches available to use. However, I bought some within the last 6 months and found they definitely make a difference! I highly recommend but they aren't totally necessary with these American style movements. Cutting broaches are a must, though.
I've seen some people use finishing broaches after the cutting broaches and others simply using the cutting broaches as I do here. The best and easiest thing is to burnish the pivots on a lathe, but since I don't have one (yet) I use super fine sandpaper or emery paper by hand, which seems to work rather well so far.
Enjoy watching you work. I am trying to gather equipment to replicate the work of Chris at clickspring in the production of a John Wilding Large Wheel Skeleton Clock. Have a long way to go. Do you use any bronze or jeweled bushings?
I use brass bushings, have been meaning to get some bronze ones but waiting to run out of the brass ones first. And I've seen those videos he did a fantastic job!
I don't recall the kit information (since I now use the complete set), but I can tell you the most used KWM bushing sizes on these old American style movements are: L38 through L45. I like to use a little deeper bushing since the pivots are longer, so I listed the 1.9mm bushing depth rather than the 1.4mm. The longer bushings create a longer bearing surface and wear less than the thinner ones.
@ makes sense and thanks for the info . I don’t want to buy bushings I won’t be using but for one offs , too expensive and I may try my hand at my smaller lathe for those . Again thanks I do appreciate it!
There are some people that use the hand-bushing method, but I personally don't care for it since you cannot keep the tool 100% straight while reaming the hole, which causes the bushing to go in at an angle. I've worked on several clocks that were previously worked on using a hand reamer, and it shows. The other method I've used with pretty good success is a good drill press and some sort of stand that can accommodate the various parts that can stick out of the movement plate. I've found a large 3" or 4" pipe coupling works well as a stand. All you'd then need are the various size reamers and bushings.
@@matthewblack1981 tune the drill press to its slowest setting. And yes, depending on how worn, you must always file the hole back to center. Whether using a bushing machine like this one or the drill press.
Another good video, Thanks. You might be interested to have a look at Scott Jeffery rebushing a carriage clock on his channel. He has also written a very good book "An Introductory Guide to Repairing Mechanical Clocks"
That hole appears to have already been bushed it would have better more effective to punch out that old bushing as a whole and out in a new one the same size so it will be perfectly centered
It actually did not have a bushing previously, though I could see how you would think that based on the ring around the edge. I believe that is either from the stamping process in the factory, or was punched in later using an old repair method for closing holes.
Hi Dylan! There are several reputable clock suppliers to look in to. The two main ones I use are Merritts.com and timesavers.com. If you call, they can help you find the weight cable you need. Thanks!
Great presentation! Most instructive and enjoyable with candid comments. Thank you.
Many thanks!
Nice video, thanks for taking the time.. pun intended. So although the KWM machine was sold by American companies it is actually made in Germany by "Fabric Flume" as are their bushings. Your model is very different from the model I have but agreed all brands do the job very well. I appreciate the time it takes putting together a video as sharing helps us all learn something new.
Thank you for your feedback!! And thanks for the additional info! Never knew that!
@@BrackenClockWorks So I did research and I think here's where the confusion was. Looks like your bushing machine is K&D and you're using KWM bushings. I was thrown off by your mention of KWM. The K&D is American made after all. Guess I've learned something else new too. Had to set the record straight lol.
Good job !!
Thanks!
I just bought a K&D machine with all the reamers etc. Nice to see some footage of one in use. Question; why not use a smoothing broach after you have your bushing to where the pivot will fit? Thanks for posting all of this series.
During the time of this video, I didn't have smoothing broaches available to use. However, I bought some within the last 6 months and found they definitely make a difference! I highly recommend but they aren't totally necessary with these American style movements. Cutting broaches are a must, though.
Don'cha need to burnish that bush after it's been installed and cut? I found the KVM demo very interesting and useful; thanks for the video!
I've seen some people use finishing broaches after the cutting broaches and others simply using the cutting broaches as I do here. The best and easiest thing is to burnish the pivots on a lathe, but since I don't have one (yet) I use super fine sandpaper or emery paper by hand, which seems to work rather well so far.
Enjoy watching you work. I am trying to gather equipment to replicate the work of Chris at clickspring in the production of a John Wilding Large Wheel Skeleton Clock. Have a long way to go. Do you use any bronze or jeweled bushings?
I use brass bushings, have been meaning to get some bronze ones but waiting to run out of the brass ones first. And I've seen those videos he did a fantastic job!
Thanks! Have you heard of anyone using jewels in a clock?
What bushing kit did you use KWM but sizes would be helpful. Perhaps the box KWM number .
I don't recall the kit information (since I now use the complete set), but I can tell you the most used KWM bushing sizes on these old American style movements are: L38 through L45. I like to use a little deeper bushing since the pivots are longer, so I listed the 1.9mm bushing depth rather than the 1.4mm. The longer bushings create a longer bearing surface and wear less than the thinner ones.
@ makes sense and thanks for the info . I don’t want to buy bushings I won’t be using but for one offs , too expensive and I may try my hand at my smaller lathe for those . Again thanks I do appreciate it!
Are there part 10 and more?
Do you have a video doing the rebush without the kwm tool? I'm just a hobbyist and learning.
There are some people that use the hand-bushing method, but I personally don't care for it since you cannot keep the tool 100% straight while reaming the hole, which causes the bushing to go in at an angle. I've worked on several clocks that were previously worked on using a hand reamer, and it shows. The other method I've used with pretty good success is a good drill press and some sort of stand that can accommodate the various parts that can stick out of the movement plate. I've found a large 3" or 4" pipe coupling works well as a stand. All you'd then need are the various size reamers and bushings.
Would'nt the drill press spin too fast? Also don't you need to file the unworn side to math the worn area then ream?@@BrackenClockWorks
@@matthewblack1981 tune the drill press to its slowest setting. And yes, depending on how worn, you must always file the hole back to center. Whether using a bushing machine like this one or the drill press.
Another good video, Thanks. You might be interested to have a look at Scott Jeffery rebushing a carriage clock on his channel. He has also written a very good book "An Introductory Guide to Repairing Mechanical Clocks"
That hole appears to have already been bushed it would have better more effective to punch out that old bushing as a whole and out in a new one the same size so it will be perfectly centered
It actually did not have a bushing previously, though I could see how you would think that based on the ring around the edge. I believe that is either from the stamping process in the factory, or was punched in later using an old repair method for closing holes.
Can you buy for me 3 ODO mainspring ?
I need a cable for my floor grand father where can i order one thank you
Hi Dylan! There are several reputable clock suppliers to look in to. The two main ones I use are Merritts.com and timesavers.com. If you call, they can help you find the weight cable you need. Thanks!
Help me my worth setting.
I’ve got the same tool K&D
Way off mark, hardly better than it was before you started. You should be a butcher not working on clocks.