I'm retired and clocks have become my total obsession. I just love them. Every video you show us is a lesson to my clock repairs. What do I do with these previous clock wrecks? I fix them and restore them as well as I can afford and keep them as my collection. I love puzzles and I consider clocks as 3D puzzles. Thank you for your video postings. Your tutorials are, in my opinion, of high quality and you don't use jargon to explain things, so it's really easy to follow and definitely not boring.
Great video! Can you please make 2 videos. 1) Please showing EXACTLY what you are looking at with an old main spring that would make it not worth using again (junk). What are the signs of wearing out? Thanks and I hope to see this video soon! 2) Please show us EXACTLY how to measure out an old main spring so we know how to order the correct new replacement main spring. I would like to make a little suggestion for you too. When you took the barrel fully assembled and you were popping the lid off the barrel by striking it on the back of the vice (11:56 mark of this video) you risk doing damage to the arbor. I'd like to suggest getting a brass hammer like one from Harbor Freight. Lay the hammer on its side and use the flat side as the surface to hit the arbor on. The brass will dent and not risk doing damage to the arbor. Just a suggestion. Again I loved the video!!!
When you mentioned cleaning in an ultrasonic bath, it reminded me of a trick I learnt, and that you probably already know. If working with different parts, or different solutions, I often put them into different zip lock bags to keep the main solution clean and reduce wastage and cross contamination. The ultrasonic waves work through the wall of the plastic bags just the same.
I used to use a similar method for cleaning watch parts and platform balance escapements. Small beakers were the trick with water in the main tank and the clean/rinse in the beakers. Worked great until I found a vintage watch cleaning machine. Thanks for sharing!!
I too dislike reversing the arbor support when changing from loop end to hole end springs. So I made a modification to my Ollie and no longer need to reverse it. I removed the pins in the arbor support, that held the ''runner'' in place, tapped a hole where the pin was and installed a "clamping knob'', that's what ACE hardware calls them. Screw with plastic knob, they have various sizes. I also replaced the 'runner' with one that is 5'' long, rather than 2 1/2'' origional length. I turned the ends with a center drill just as the origional was, 60 deg. female centers. Works great!
Thanks for the posting. I would encourage everyone using this type of winder on a hole end to use the adjustable clamp and stop that comes with the winder. It alleviates the need to hold the barrel to insert the sleeve and it is a lot safer than doing this operation entirely by hand. It also saves a lot of time!!
I am starting my mission to learn clock repair . I have an old 400 day clock made in West Germany that some dear friends gave my mother it has never ran. Broke suspension spring. Anyway finally got the nerve to start tearing it apart this week and I really enjoyed it. I do Marine repair for a living so all of this is all new to me. I want to try and learn clock repair and then move into watch repair . Been watching Watch repair vids and it mesmerizing and tranquil .Just amazes me they get something 80 years old that is dead hasnt worked in 50 years and bring it back to life. Very good video my man and you went slow and methodical. Keep up the good work wish me well on my new journey
First rate video, answers many questions about mainspring winders. I've removed and cleaned several Victrola mainsprings from their barrels, without any winder or other fancy tools ------ I don't recommend it! I need to remove and clean the mainsprings from an older Chelsea Ship's bell clock, which I've sent back to the factory twice, and the time spring still grabs and feels glitchy. I will now try to do it myself, AFTER I've purchased a mainspring winder. Cheerio!
When I had a barrel like the one you were working on, ''reverse winding square'' I worked on the winder end with the arbor support. I turned the winder until I was looking into the barrel. Then with my gloved left hand, I grabed the barrel from the back side of the winder and held onto it from the bottom of the barrel. The barrel hook can be easily seen when rotated to the top of the winder 12 o'clock position. Then procede as usual. You can easily do this as your winder is mounted on th eleft side of your bench, but you would have to move your banjo. The Seth Thomas 124 has all three barrels with ''reverse arbors''. With this clock I made an arbor to replace the one that came with the clock and it worked great, and have used it with all other 'reverse arbors'
Those New Haven movements are notoriously tedious and difficult to work on. A lot of shops refuse to service them, because the extra time and effort involved causes the repair cost to be more than 3 times the value of the clock. Plus, they are temperamental, at best, and often come back with issues later on.
Dear author, where can I buy such a machine?, For example, in Germany. If on Ebay, then what request should I write? What is the name of this machine for unwinding springs?
UPDATE : I got a spring winder off of ebarf and its very good quality and I got it for a good price . It is similar like yours but parts are missing . This one does not have the hooks and the main arbor that goes into the shaft for the spring is gone. I have about five cups but I think I might have a few missing. I need some help in telling me what is missing and how to use it. These doesnt seem to be a manufacture on it. But it is hell for stout and very well made
Great video with clear explanations. Loved the ending of the video with the sound of that New Haven Striking Clock. Curious to know what model clock that was.
Excellent video. I'm a mechanic, but an amateur with mechanical clocks. What was the visual signal that you used to say (6:30) the spring mechanism wasn't worth saving?
Thanks! The mainspring had been previously "repaired" and when they put it into the barrel, they somehow riveted it into place, making it near impossible to get out without drilling it out.
Thanks for posting. A word of caution though, I have seen the barrel come loose from the gear with the removal method you are using (hitting against a hard surface). Probably more likely with a steel cover but it is still a possibility.
Hi Bracken, Thanks for posting this perfectly video. I’d like to ask you about my mainspring Arbor is an opposite side of the barrel what you show in your sample So please let me know how to get the spring out of the barrel?
Question: in this video you’re using the Keystone light variant oil. On the other videos about the American movement you showed us the Slick 50 One Lube to use for lubricating springs. Do you use one type for barrel one hole springs and another type for open loop end springs?
I made the switch to the Keystone light a few months ago for all mainsprings. Reason being, I’ve found the Slick 50 breaks down after a couple years and actually hinders the springs’ efficiency.
Just started working on a ST 48R. First time with main spring in a barrel..Video is a great help. Thanks..Do you have a video on the ST 48R or suggest where info can be found? Thanks again..
I'm familiar with that movement! If memory serves, the barrel is directly attached to the front movement plate. I've found the easiest way to remove the mainspring is to use a donor winding arbor that inserts from the opposite side, with the square part of the winding arbor pointing toward what would be the inside of the movement. Then you can use the same principles in the video to remove it. You will have to remove the original winding arbor first, of course! :) Hope that helps!
When you hold the spring as your winding it down.... if it were to spring out, are the sides sharp enough to cut you? Another reason to be wearing those gloves you keep talking about. 😉
Silly me. I always wound them, bare handed, into spring clamps and/or spring barrels. I have never even seen a main spring winder. I was told that they were a waste of money. The stores that I worked in did everything on the cheap. 😉😁🙄
At the shop I work at, a lot of the other techs had the same feeling until I introduced my own mainspring winder into the mix. For over a year, we used mine until the owner finally bought one for the shop due to popular demand. It makes installing springs a breeze, it doesn't damage the barrel or "cone" the mainspring, and it's much safer too! Cheers!
Film profesional și bine realizat,mulțumiri pentru informația detaliată și pentru explicații.Totul merge bine daca ai un dispozitiv de bobinat profesional.Inca nu am găsit un dispozitiv de bobinat,și mă descurc greu cu improvizații.Aveti informații unde găsim așa ceva?Mulțumesc oricum pentru realizarea filmulețului.
@@BrackenClockWorks the one from the barrel. You put in the cylinder with the tail poking out. Shouldn’t it have just unwound out through that hole? Man, I wish I could see the tools and process in person. 🧐
Ah I see what you mean, now. It cannot just slide through the slot. The outward pressure from the spring is universal from the center point in that instance, putting equal pressure straight out against the sleeve, holding it in place.
Hi Sir,, Can you please advise where to buy the Clock Spring (Strike Side) I have Korean made clock which stile side is weak and not striking always nave it’s not turning the gears
Very rarely are mainsprings the weak point in a clock’s ability to function properly (unless of course they’re broken, which is rather obvious to see). What you’re experiencing is usually a symptom of wear, which would require more extensive repairs. It could be gummed up oil around the pivots and it just needs a cleaning and re-oiling, but in my experience with those it probably needs an overhaul. It could also be something simpler such as something rubbing or interacting incorrectly.
Could it be possible if i placed the quarter main spring in the main clock spring and but the main sclock spring in qauarter one? In westminster chiming kienzle clock Or the no of teeth will not fit the work
The spring size, as well as barrel size and orientation, is not compatible between the chime and time trains. This is true for almost all other Westminster chime clocks, as well. The chime spring and barrel is larger and stronger than the other two trains.
@@BrackenClockWorks I have a Westminster clock that doesn’t wind down very much in the clock. However long I leave the clock to wind down, when I try to wind it up again, it doesn’t turn easily and not many turns either. The two arbors either side hardly turn much and the middle arbour only turns 3 or 4 turns. Could it be the springs are very dirty and gummed up? Or that they’re in the wrong places? I haven’t taken a clock apart before. I thought it was supposed to be an 8 day, but I wound it the little it can, each night. Can you get 30 hour mantel clocks with Westminster chimes, or are they all 8 day clocks? It keeps good enough time though.
Because someone did a poor repair job previously that essentially riveted the mainspring to the barrel. Yes, it can be removed and possibly saved by drilling out the rivet and replacing the rivet properly, but since I have a surplus of these movements (they can be a royal pain to work on, so I have spares for parts), it is more cost efficient for me to just replace the barrel and spring.
Куча приблуд по снятию пружины и все ради того, что бы потом растереть по ней грязь старым носком и им же намазать масло. Все делается намного проще - пружина вынимается руками и руками же вставляется обратно. При должном навыке пружина после таких манипуляций сохранит нормальную форму в плоскости и не будет затирать о барабан. А вот мыть пружину нужно начисто и смазывать потом до конца. А на этом видео какое-то рукоблудие.
speaking of safety with springs and showing others safe practise.....is defeated when you use a paper towel to hold barrel gear...perhaps you might edit the video and actually use a glove
I'm retired and clocks have become my total obsession. I just love them. Every video you show us is a lesson to my clock repairs. What do I do with these previous clock wrecks? I fix them and restore them as well as I can afford and keep them as my collection. I love puzzles and I consider clocks as 3D puzzles. Thank you for your video postings. Your tutorials are, in my opinion, of high quality and you don't use jargon to explain things, so it's really easy to follow and definitely not boring.
You are so welcome! Glad they have been helpful, which was the aim for these videos! Thank you!
Я розпускаю пружини руками,а купити на ебей😂
Finally, a decent demonstration of a mainspring winder.
I'm glad you kept the odd spring in the video rather than editing it out or rerecording it. That's interesting to see.
Great video! Can you please make 2 videos.
1) Please showing EXACTLY what you are looking at with an old main spring that would make it not worth using again (junk). What are the signs of wearing out? Thanks and I hope to see this video soon!
2) Please show us EXACTLY how to measure out an old main spring so we know how to order the correct new replacement main spring.
I would like to make a little suggestion for you too. When you took the barrel fully assembled and you were popping the lid off the barrel by striking it on the back of the vice (11:56 mark of this video) you risk doing damage to the arbor. I'd like to suggest getting a brass hammer like one from Harbor Freight. Lay the hammer on its side and use the flat side as the surface to hit the arbor on. The brass will dent and not risk doing damage to the arbor. Just a suggestion. Again I loved the video!!!
When you mentioned cleaning in an ultrasonic bath, it reminded me of a trick I learnt, and that you probably already know. If working with different parts, or different solutions, I often put them into different zip lock bags to keep the main solution clean and reduce wastage and cross contamination. The ultrasonic waves work through the wall of the plastic bags just the same.
I used to use a similar method for cleaning watch parts and platform balance escapements. Small beakers were the trick with water in the main tank and the clean/rinse in the beakers. Worked great until I found a vintage watch cleaning machine. Thanks for sharing!!
I too dislike reversing the arbor support when changing from loop end to hole end springs. So I made a modification to my Ollie and no longer need to reverse it.
I removed the pins in the arbor support, that held the ''runner'' in place, tapped a hole where the pin was and installed a "clamping knob'', that's what ACE hardware calls them. Screw with plastic knob, they have various sizes. I also replaced the 'runner' with one that is 5'' long, rather than 2 1/2'' origional length. I turned the ends with a center drill just as the origional was, 60 deg. female centers. Works great!
Thanks for the posting. I would encourage everyone using this type of winder on a hole end to use the adjustable clamp and stop that comes with the winder. It alleviates the need to hold the barrel to insert the sleeve and it is a lot safer than doing this operation entirely by hand. It also saves a lot of time!!
I am starting my mission to learn clock repair . I have an old 400 day clock made in West Germany that some dear friends gave my mother it has never ran. Broke suspension spring. Anyway finally got the nerve to start tearing it apart this week and I really enjoyed it. I do Marine repair for a living so all of this is all new to me. I want to try and learn clock repair and then move into watch repair . Been watching Watch repair vids and it mesmerizing and tranquil .Just amazes me they get something 80 years old that is dead hasnt worked in 50 years and bring it back to life. Very good video my man and you went slow and methodical. Keep up the good work wish me well on my new journey
Good luck, Roger! It’s a rewarding hobby!
@@BrackenClockWorks Thanks Bud!
First rate video, answers many questions about mainspring winders. I've removed and cleaned several Victrola mainsprings from their barrels, without any winder or other fancy tools ------ I don't recommend it! I need to remove and clean the mainsprings from an older Chelsea Ship's bell clock, which I've sent back to the factory twice, and the time spring still grabs and feels glitchy. I will now try to do it myself, AFTER I've purchased a mainspring winder. Cheerio!
lol I love the clock chimes going on the background. 🤣
Very good video with extraordinary clear explanations and sensible safety advises. Thank you!
When I had a barrel like the one you were working on, ''reverse winding square'' I worked on the winder end with the arbor support. I turned the winder until I was looking into the barrel. Then with my gloved left hand, I grabed the barrel from the back side of the winder and held onto it from the bottom of the barrel. The barrel hook can be easily seen when rotated to the top of the winder 12 o'clock position. Then procede as usual.
You can easily do this as your winder is mounted on th eleft side of your bench, but you would have to move your banjo.
The Seth Thomas 124 has all three barrels with ''reverse arbors''. With this clock I made an arbor to replace the one that came with the clock and it worked great, and have used it with all other 'reverse arbors'
excellent tutorial...Best I've seen...You're a natural teacher...Thank you...
Glad it was helpful!
Excellent video! You answered a lot of questions that I had. Thank you so very much!
Show the things as it is. Not a planned video. It is natural. Hence a Very good video. Thank you.
Very good video on main springs and lube and yes they can be very dangerous thank you
Just what I've been waiting for.
Been enjoying your content a great deal, thanks.
Especially like your series of the cottage clock...
Glad you enjoy the videos! As per your suggestion in a comment on a previous video, there will be more show and tell videos coming soon!
Thank you so much for making this video. As a beginner, it has really helped me a lot.
So glad to hear the video helped you out!!
That last clock that has the westminster chime I have the same. Needs cleaning dismantle and put back again.
Those New Haven movements are notoriously tedious and difficult to work on. A lot of shops refuse to service them, because the extra time and effort involved causes the repair cost to be more than 3 times the value of the clock. Plus, they are temperamental, at best, and often come back with issues later on.
What a pretty chime. 🎵
Dear author, where can I buy such a machine?, For example, in Germany. If on Ebay, then what request should I write? What is the name of this machine for unwinding springs?
Thank you very much for the great video, learning here.
UPDATE : I got a spring winder off of ebarf and its very good quality and I got it for a good price . It is similar like yours but parts are missing . This one does not have the hooks and the main arbor that goes into the shaft for the spring is gone. I have about five cups but I think I might have a few missing. I need some help in telling me what is missing and how to use it. These doesnt seem to be a manufacture on it. But it is hell for stout and very well made
Great video with clear explanations. Loved the ending of the video with the sound of that New Haven Striking Clock. Curious to know what model clock that was.
Thanks! I believe the model is known as the Revere.
Excellent video. I'm a mechanic, but an amateur with mechanical clocks. What was the visual signal that you used to say (6:30) the spring mechanism wasn't worth saving?
Thanks! The mainspring had been previously "repaired" and when they put it into the barrel, they somehow riveted it into place, making it near impossible to get out without drilling it out.
Thanks for posting. A word of caution though, I have seen the barrel come loose from the gear with the removal method you are using (hitting against a hard surface). Probably more likely with a steel cover but it is still a possibility.
Ah yes I understand what you mean. I have had that happen once recently, too. Thanks for the tip!!
I think your video was just great.
Hi Bracken,
Thanks for posting this perfectly video.
I’d like to ask you about my mainspring Arbor is an opposite side of the barrel what you show in your sample
So please let me know how to get the spring out of the barrel?
¡Gracias por compartir!
Question: in this video you’re using the Keystone light variant oil. On the other videos about the American movement you showed us the Slick 50 One Lube to use for lubricating springs. Do you use one type for barrel one hole springs and another type for open loop end springs?
I made the switch to the Keystone light a few months ago for all mainsprings. Reason being, I’ve found the Slick 50 breaks down after a couple years and actually hinders the springs’ efficiency.
Just started working on a ST 48R. First time with main spring in a barrel..Video is a great help. Thanks..Do you have a video on the ST 48R or suggest where info can be found? Thanks again..
I'm familiar with that movement! If memory serves, the barrel is directly attached to the front movement plate. I've found the easiest way to remove the mainspring is to use a donor winding arbor that inserts from the opposite side, with the square part of the winding arbor pointing toward what would be the inside of the movement. Then you can use the same principles in the video to remove it. You will have to remove the original winding arbor first, of course! :) Hope that helps!
Great information!!!
What type of Chime tune is playing on that New Haven Tambour? It’s not Westminster but it’s uniquely pretty
Great video
Thank you!
this works good if your using a key with the square end. What about if your key threads onto the arbor. How would you grip this is the spring winder?
Good question! There is another let down key accessory you can buy that accommodates alarm-style winders.
@@BrackenClockWorks where do i get it. I havent seen one. Must not be looking in the right olaces.
When you hold the spring as your winding it down.... if it were to spring out, are the sides sharp enough to cut you? Another reason to be wearing those gloves you keep talking about. 😉
If it sprung out, yes. And yeah... I should be wearing the gloves lol
Silly me.
I always wound them, bare handed, into spring clamps and/or spring barrels.
I have never even seen a main spring winder.
I was told that they were a waste of money.
The stores that I worked in did everything on the cheap. 😉😁🙄
At the shop I work at, a lot of the other techs had the same feeling until I introduced my own mainspring winder into the mix. For over a year, we used mine until the owner finally bought one for the shop due to popular demand. It makes installing springs a breeze, it doesn't damage the barrel or "cone" the mainspring, and it's much safer too! Cheers!
Film profesional și bine realizat,mulțumiri pentru informația detaliată și pentru explicații.Totul merge bine daca ai un dispozitiv de bobinat profesional.Inca nu am găsit un dispozitiv de bobinat,și mă descurc greu cu improvizații.Aveti informații unde găsim așa ceva?Mulțumesc oricum pentru realizarea filmulețului.
What is it that keeps the spring from just sliding through the guard where the tail is? 🤔
Which spring? The one in the barrel or the first one without?
@@BrackenClockWorks the one from the barrel. You put in the cylinder with the tail poking out. Shouldn’t it have just unwound out through that hole? Man, I wish I could see the tools and process in person. 🧐
Ah I see what you mean, now. It cannot just slide through the slot. The outward pressure from the spring is universal from the center point in that instance, putting equal pressure straight out against the sleeve, holding it in place.
The friction created from the outward pressure against the sleeve is what holds it in place
Very good video..:) Thank you.
Hi Sir,, Can you please advise where to buy the Clock Spring (Strike Side) I have Korean made clock which stile side is weak and not striking always nave it’s not turning the gears
Very rarely are mainsprings the weak point in a clock’s ability to function properly (unless of course they’re broken, which is rather obvious to see). What you’re experiencing is usually a symptom of wear, which would require more extensive repairs. It could be gummed up oil around the pivots and it just needs a cleaning and re-oiling, but in my experience with those it probably needs an overhaul. It could also be something simpler such as something rubbing or interacting incorrectly.
@@BrackenClockWorks Thank You
very good
Could it be possible if i placed the quarter main spring in the main clock spring and but the main sclock spring in qauarter one? In westminster chiming kienzle clock
Or the no of teeth will not fit the work
The spring size, as well as barrel size and orientation, is not compatible between the chime and time trains. This is true for almost all other Westminster chime clocks, as well. The chime spring and barrel is larger and stronger than the other two trains.
@@BrackenClockWorks
I have a Westminster clock that doesn’t wind down very much in the clock. However long I leave the clock to wind down, when I try to wind it up again, it doesn’t turn easily and not many turns either. The two arbors either side hardly turn much and the middle arbour only turns 3 or 4 turns. Could it be the springs are very dirty and gummed up? Or that they’re in the wrong places? I haven’t taken a clock apart before. I thought it was supposed to be an 8 day, but I wound it the little it can, each night. Can you get 30 hour mantel clocks with Westminster chimes, or are they all 8 day clocks? It keeps good enough time though.
Very nice sir
very good video, but may i know where is to buy this tools ?
Sorry for my super late reply!! Best place to get the clock-specific tools is from either Timesavers.com or Merritts.com, depending on your location!!
Why do you say the spring you removed is garbage?
Because someone did a poor repair job previously that essentially riveted the mainspring to the barrel. Yes, it can be removed and possibly saved by drilling out the rivet and replacing the rivet properly, but since I have a surplus of these movements (they can be a royal pain to work on, so I have spares for parts), it is more cost efficient for me to just replace the barrel and spring.
Can you buy for me 3 new ODO mainspring ?
I didn't realise that dirt and rust could stop a spring working.
That dreaded new Haven triple plate
7:38
Куча приблуд по снятию пружины и все ради того, что бы потом растереть по ней грязь старым носком и им же намазать масло. Все делается намного проще - пружина вынимается руками и руками же вставляется обратно. При должном навыке пружина после таких манипуляций сохранит нормальную форму в плоскости и не будет затирать о барабан. А вот мыть пружину нужно начисто и смазывать потом до конца. А на этом видео какое-то рукоблудие.
У вас є чому вчитися😊
speaking of safety with springs and showing others safe practise.....is defeated when you use a paper towel to hold barrel gear...perhaps you might edit the video and actually use a glove