Finally. Seen a video.. stated it’s purpose in title.. showed a great way to DIY said product. No frills no BS. And accomplished this perfection without having to listen to some tool who just loves the sound of his own voice blab on about why he decided to bless us with his idea. Thank you kind sir.
Pro tip: when using concrete and forms put either axle grease or diesel fuel on the forms where you don't want the concrete to stick. Note: colored axle grease will stain concrete.
Yep, the kerosene/diesel mix is pretty common in construction as a release agent. But really, anything greasy or oily that doesn't evaporate or wick into the concrete (don't used water based stuff) will likely result in success for a DIY project. Just be sure to use something expendable, non-porous, and preferably with a smooth finish that doesn't have an odd shape (like a coke bottle or something), because not even a release agent will work well enough to get some things out...that's where the expendable part comes in LOL
Nicely done! I've got a washing-machine barrel that I've been holding onto for a while, now that I've seen how you finished yours I know what I need to do to finish mine!
If youre using concrete or motar and you plan to use pipes like he used for the gases, dip the pipes into used motor oil. The oil prevents the concrete/motar from sticking to the pipe. When making sewer lines and manholes, we use 1 part deisel fuel and 3 parts oil for the ladders and holes for various pipes that are mapped into the concrete during pour
Unbelievably cool, thank you for sharing this! ...and thanks for not adding disturbing music in the background, it's just perfect like this. Highly appreciate this...
A year later I watching this again and still am amazed on how well you did this! Most just use wool and call it done you went all the way and did it perfect!
Yeah, I see your point, the old blue paint coating might just turn to ash but hopefully all that insulation he put between it and his furnace center will protect it and the paint on top from turning to ash.
@@busybee6889 He plainly didn’t, otherwise he'd have known to remove it. Only the insecure can't cope with constructive criticism, always right non learners
apparently you don't know how strong 1" of that insulator is and there is 6 inches total with a 1" very high temp ceramic insulator inside. The entire problem is the cement, the can will NEVER get hot. The thermo paint will resist spills on it, but that cement will chip and it will get into the crucible. You can use graphite mixed with refractory cement like heat stop that's rated for 3000 F and turn the entire thing in to a hard packed crucible, just the bucket in center will need holes in the bottom to pull out; the problem is that it will still break down and the insulator is cheap by the roll at 2700 F... LMAO
hey, i've always melted lead in my cooking pots, and i've never noticed a proboboboblem... wait, what were we talking about? am i actually typing at the moment? i thought i was at the beach
@@bacicinvatteneaca the rest of the world banned lead based paint decades before the United States did, because rich people were making money and our law makers thought that was more important than public safty.
I have a commercially produced, industrial grade furnace similar to this and it’s a great design. You can throw an electric blower on it as well and it’ll get your temps higher (mine has one built in). Look forward to seeing what you cast in one this size!
Excellent work, and excellent video showing us only the work and not filled with a bunch of distracting music or narration that wasn't needed. Consider me a fan, if all your videos are like this!
Apart from him not removing the original blue paint before putting on the high temp coating this is a perfect project. The best yet that I have seen , especially if like me you have a workshop to store a large heavy furnace . I too was contemplating just buying a lightweight one from vevor, but after seeing this I now want to copy it.. Also I have the tools and welding gear, but not much cash to splash as I've just retired. Building my own I can do a bit at a time and build it over a few months instead of having to pay out a big lump of cash to buy the Vevor. Also, this self build is bigger , far more robust and will have a much longer life. Great project, well done ! 😊
that insulator is like 6" deep, the outside will never get hot but that refractory cement will chip into the crucible over time. Its best to just use 1500 C ceramic insulator without cement.
Hello, I have just a simple suggestion, to facilitate your work, concerning the big can, you can use a system as the glass plate in the microwave furnace, or something like this, as the same used for "ancient" televisions, all this, to cut the can with less efforts, knowing that it is really heavy. Sorry for my words, suggestion, and sorry for my bad english. Thank you for your comprehension.
I made this and it ended up perfect all thanks to you! Great build....NOW the disclaimer LOL I installed casters under also like you and when I swung the lid the forge about tipped over from the lids weight, so I installed an axle at the rear. Also I made a 2nd handle mounted to bottom drum so I could steer it vs the movable lid trying to move it around didn't work so well for me. Thanks again!!
This is by far the best DIY furnace I have seen yet... and I think it's the one I'm going to try replicate!! Really love the crucible tongs and pourers too!! Great vid thanks :) Edit: also great idea on cutting the drum!!
The Better way would be to aim the pipes at a downward angle toward the base of the crucible, and the fire would swirl around the crucible all the way up the crucible sides, and ends up with a more efficient heating pattern. I know it works as I have mine made like that and it gets 10 Pounds of red brass from cold metal to pouring temp in 1/2 an hour. Annnd I am using standard natural Gas.
Damn, I love people's ingenuity sometimes. That angle grinder on a plywood fixture and using your microwave for the height...genius. lol. Made my day! Great stuff!
This was one of the most entertaining videos I have ever watched! At first thought you were going to weld the handle that you spin open the lid with. A vibrator underneath the pan you pour the metal in may flatten out the shape at the top to make it smooth before it cools down too much and get the air bubbles out of the metal. I remember in my weld class for one semester we always had the slag on top of the metal and had to tap it with a hammer to break it off. All we did was weld some steel with oxycetaline torch and also weld a tool box we all made with a spot welder. We also got to arc weld a little bit. I was in electronics, but the one semester we had to take a class that involved some welding. That was one of the most enjoyable classes I was glad I took even though it was required for my associate degree in electronics. I loved all the forming you did using plastic and other materials until you got the desired outcome. I could see a 3D printer being used to create plastic molds for you to make other things out of cement as well and being able to remove the plastic.
Next time you are making a cast or mould using concrete or cement, cover the mould surface area with a thin layer of grease or thick oil, it will make extracting the mould much easier for you.
I've built a couple of forges and a furnace, some with home-made refractory, one with commercial materials. I'd just like to say that I can really appreciate your design and execution😊
Overall, this was a very impressive build. I'd like to see a breakdown of the materials used & the overall cost. Did you think to include temperature sensors & gauge for specific metals, or is this just for aluminium/copper recycling? Also, that pourer handle has to be one of the cleverest methods I've seen to hold & pour with a crucible full of molten metal. Most of the time it's a set of curved tongs that have to be held in an annoyingly awkward way with heavy gloves.
Nice - very nice. I left my furnace behind when I moved - it was well weathered. Considering a Devil's Forge, but may make a second from scratch instead. Your video reminds me of the fun it was to make my first one. Single port, forced air injection, charcoal powered - a bit slow, fully functional for aluminum. Yours looks faster, hotter, and perhaps easily copper and brass capable.
Good video but it would have been more useful if you had explained mostly what materials and receipt you used like in the cement. Where did you get the fiberglass or wool insulation?
For insolation u can use starlaite material homemade, because this alumosilicate foam can cost much: for 1kg starlite there is 400g flour, 200g sugar, 200g corn starch, 200g baking soda, 40g borax. This guy uses cement that will eventually crack. Make a starlite paste by mixing all those 5 indigrients with water but dry it out of water before using furnace for a week or so. For more info check out starlite in youtube.
please try to only use the bottom burner, just to see if the upper one makes any difference. maybe its located to close to the exhaust hole. I believe that the second burner should be placed at the same height but 180 degrees apart from the other one. it would be very very interesting to not only guess but know for sure
Given this and other designs I've seen the idea is that the heat actually blows around the inner vessel in a sort of vortex, given his insulation is any good it shouldn't make much of a difference actually
@@xxportalxx. yes , but for a much shorter way than if it was located att the bottom. so I think it would be much more economical effective with both burners att the bottom
@@610324dan I think you're simply overestimating the locality of the heating, unlike a torch this oven has a body with insulation, the goal is to bring the chamber up to temperature, not just the focal point of the flame
Spot on but i do wonder how the top concrete will hold up over time . Maybe use the base of a 44 gallon drum with 50 mm of the sides still atached so as to keep integrity of concrete and also reflect heat downward. You could also line with so ceramic blanket before you pour the cement top! 👍🏻
Great video 👌 but you may run into problems soon because you poured refractory directly onto a porous ceramic fiber blanket without sealing the surface first.
This is ok if you’re only planning on melting aluminium. I have a foundry made from an oil drum but use it for melting bronze. The problem with this design is there’s not much thermal insulation on the lid. I use a full size oil drum with 7.5cm of ceramic wool then coated in 5cm of refractory cement. I can use an A35 crucible easily with that setup and it only takes 2 hours to melt a full crucible. You’ll just have to work out what you’re going to be melting and work out what temperature you need before making it. I think the size of this is a bit over kill for the size of the crucible. That looks like an A12 maximum which I used to use with a small propane foundry which was only a fraction of that size.
MrPhuct there’s no point spending way more money on map gas if you can do it with propane though. Also I’m really commenting on this being a smart design. It’s more of a waste of the oil drum. There’s way more insulation than is needed on the walls and not enough on the top. Plus it has a chipboard bottom. Even if it doesn’t burn it won’t last very long. If someone was going to make something similar I thing this is a poorly thought out design. You can get so much more out of an ‘oil drum’ foundry. It’s a waste of materials (expensive materials) to make something so big for such a little crucible. To melt that material you have to heat up so much thermal mass it becomes more expensive. For something like an A12 crucible (I assume that what it is from the video) all you need is 2 layers of ceramic wool in a mini oil drum (domestic frying oil drum) otherwise you’re just wasting fuel to heat something up that you’re not going to melt. I have made several oil drum foundries and use them daily and I have had to strike the right balance for fuel efficiency, size of my castings, material and usage costs.
@MrPhuct what do you think about devil forge furnaces, would it be a nice investment over making one of these? Im planning on melting bronze copper aluminum and thats about it
Is there a specific microwave oven that I need to act as a height gauge for the levelling out the cut in the first clip, I really enjoyed watching this video and looking forward to seeing some more of your videos....Phil 🇬🇧
There is a hardening solution you can spray on the kaowool to make rigid and hold shape. If you don't want to buy refractory cement ,that's a potential solution. It may be good to use it anyway. Sandwhiching an untreated layer between an inner and outer layer of rigid wool would prove to be quite long lasting
I melt aluminum, iron and even steel. My propane powered furnace easily hits 3800 degree F. The only suggestions I would make is 1 heat rises so you will probably loose your lid before the rest of the furnace breaks down. If you don't want to invest in more ceramic fiber for the lid I would suggest looking into aircrete it is light weight and holds heat great. 2. I don't think the double burner is going to achieve the disired result, but one decent burner on the bottom at an angle so the flames come in and swirl cyclonic action and heat rises naturally. But you are on the right track and for melting aluminum your furnace will do nicely for atleast a few hundred melts.
That's a lot of insulation, I wish my forge was this efficient :D In the future you may wanna use a silicon lubricant on the bucket and other plastic stuff you'll remove after cement* is cured - it's gonna slip out with ease. And remain usable! * I'm not sure it's the proper english word but y'all know what I mean
Finally. Seen a video.. stated it’s purpose in title.. showed a great way to DIY said product. No frills no BS. And accomplished this perfection without having to listen to some tool who just loves the sound of his own voice blab on about why he decided to bless us with his idea. Thank you kind sir.
And no annoying music.
It is very satisfying to watch something like that being made to suit someone's own needs.
Pro tip: when using concrete and forms put either axle grease or diesel fuel on the forms where you don't want the concrete to stick.
Note: colored axle grease will stain concrete.
So a light layer of diesel on the bucket before cementing? Good to know, thank you!
We used to coat metal wall forums with a mixture of kerosene and diesel fuel so the concrete wouldn't stick to em.
Yep, the kerosene/diesel mix is pretty common in construction as a release agent. But really, anything greasy or oily that doesn't evaporate or wick into the concrete (don't used water based stuff) will likely result in success for a DIY project. Just be sure to use something expendable, non-porous, and preferably with a smooth finish that doesn't have an odd shape (like a coke bottle or something), because not even a release agent will work well enough to get some things out...that's where the expendable part comes in LOL
Just use furniture polish, it's convenient and low mess.
@@1TUFZ71 No... He's an idiot. Never use a combustible material at any point during this sort of process.
Your creative potential seems limitless.
Nicely done! I've got a washing-machine barrel that I've been holding onto for a while, now that I've seen how you finished yours I know what I need to do to finish mine!
That had to be one of the cleanest looking furnaces I've ever seen. Great work.
Absolutely , Wonderful
The quality of your work and your creativeness do not cease to amaze me. Your videos are some of the very best on TH-cam all categories combined.
If youre using concrete or motar and you plan to use pipes like he used for the gases, dip the pipes into used motor oil. The oil prevents the concrete/motar from sticking to the pipe. When making sewer lines and manholes, we use 1 part deisel fuel and 3 parts oil for the ladders and holes for various pipes that are mapped into the concrete during pour
OMG your plate to stop the crucible from falling out while pouring is Genius. I have been contemplating this complicated slide arm thing.
Unbelievably cool, thank you for sharing this!
...and thanks for not adding disturbing music in the background, it's just perfect like this. Highly appreciate this...
A year later I watching this again and still am amazed on how well you did this! Most just use wool and call it done you went all the way and did it perfect!
Old blue coat must be deleted before using themostable paint.
It's cool crucible furnace.
Sorry for my English.
Yeah, I see your point, the old blue paint coating might just turn to ash but hopefully all that insulation he put between it and his furnace center will protect it and the paint on top from turning to ash.
no need to apologize.. and yes, such thermoresistant paints strongly reccomend to remove old paint and even not to use primer coat
im tippin he took that into account...he's no dumb bunny you paint Nazis
@@busybee6889 He plainly didn’t, otherwise he'd have known to remove it. Only the insecure can't cope with constructive criticism, always right non learners
apparently you don't know how strong 1" of that insulator is and there is 6 inches total with a 1" very high temp ceramic insulator inside. The entire problem is the cement, the can will NEVER get hot. The thermo paint will resist spills on it, but that cement will chip and it will get into the crucible. You can use graphite mixed with refractory cement like heat stop that's rated for 3000 F and turn the entire thing in to a hard packed crucible, just the bucket in center will need holes in the bottom to pull out; the problem is that it will still break down and the insulator is cheap by the roll at 2700 F... LMAO
I when I was a boy. Melted led in my mothers cooking pan's.
Then she cooked my dinner and it.
That could explain 🤔 a lot. M
hey, i've always melted lead in my cooking pots, and i've never noticed a proboboboblem... wait, what were we talking about? am i actually typing at the moment? i thought i was at the beach
@@myspace_forever now thats funny!!
That would explain your typing skills
A reminder that ghettos in the us use a lot of lead paint, and lead poisoning has been shown to significantly increase aggression.
@@bacicinvatteneaca the rest of the world banned lead based paint decades before the United States did, because rich people were making money and our law makers thought that was more important than public safty.
I have a commercially produced, industrial grade furnace similar to this and it’s a great design. You can throw an electric blower on it as well and it’ll get your temps higher (mine has one built in). Look forward to seeing what you cast in one this size!
I've built at least 5 foundries till now. And I can confidently say that I'm about to build the 6th one. Like, holy shit. This is PERFECTION
what type metal that's inside the furnace that's used to heat the other metal, the one that doesn't melt ????
@@jmadventures9830 it's called crucible...it is made of porcelain or any other inert metal which can able to withstand high temperatures..
@@agriculturemachinerychanne9574 thanks I figured it out eventually... did you build a foundry ?
@@jmadventures9830 no
Good luck servicing those castors.
I'm always really impressed that the homemade workshop tools and gadgets always look so professional and neat. Another great video!
Signed
Edison.
Excellent work, and excellent video showing us only the work and not filled with a bunch of distracting music or narration that wasn't needed. Consider me a fan, if all your videos are like this!
I need to do this.
We made one but smaller..
Alternate channel Hand Tool Meltdown
Yeeees 🙌🏻 I’ll for sure watch it 🙂
I need sir new please send your address
@@candydavis9410 same process?
Apart from him not removing the original blue paint before putting on the high temp coating this is a perfect project. The best yet that I have seen , especially if like me you have a workshop to store a large heavy furnace . I too was contemplating just buying a lightweight one from vevor, but after seeing this I now want to copy it..
Also I have the tools and welding gear, but not much cash to splash as I've just retired. Building my own I can do a bit at a time and build it over a few months instead of having to pay out a big lump of cash to buy the Vevor. Also, this self build is bigger , far more robust and will have a much longer life.
Great project, well done ! 😊
that insulator is like 6" deep, the outside will never get hot but that refractory cement will chip into the crucible over time. Its best to just use 1500 C ceramic insulator without cement.
That's a great idea. I have tried to cut so many things like that. With a wibly wobly cut.
Hello,
I have just a simple suggestion, to facilitate your work, concerning the big can, you can use a system as the glass plate in the microwave furnace, or something like this, as the same used for "ancient" televisions, all this, to cut the can with less efforts, knowing that it is really heavy.
Sorry for my words, suggestion, and sorry for my bad english.
Thank you for your comprehension.
I'm always impressed at how you think in innovative ways to accomplish your goals. Very nice work!
Hands down the most impressive and sophisticated home job I've ever seen,
Can I just say that I love the fact that you used a microwave to make that cut at the perfect height 😂
I made this and it ended up perfect all thanks to you! Great build....NOW the disclaimer LOL I installed casters under also like you and when I swung the lid the forge about tipped over from the lids weight, so I installed an axle at the rear. Also I made a 2nd handle mounted to bottom drum so I could steer it vs the movable lid trying to move it around didn't work so well for me. Thanks again!!
I went from looking at a small easy to use electric metal furnace to some guy making his own gigantic one. That escalated quickly!
Your ingenuity, engineering and execution of these projects is so inspiring! Thanks again!
I love how he basically used his angle grinder as a can opener xD
I used a jackhammer to cut open 50 gallon drums all the time. I got quite good at it because I had to do it at least once a day at work for two years.
Yeah but I think you had enough
Albeit an expensive can opener.
一一一
Your lid, and the 2 crucible holders you use is by far the least stressful set up I have seen.
Well done.
This is by far the best DIY furnace I have seen yet... and I think it's the one I'm going to try replicate!! Really love the crucible tongs and pourers too!! Great vid thanks :)
Edit: also great idea on cutting the drum!!
Great keeping the flame at the side to create swirl affect in the furnace, very efficient!
The Better way would be to aim the pipes at a downward angle toward the base of the crucible, and the fire would swirl around the crucible all the way up the crucible sides, and ends up with a more efficient heating pattern. I know it works
as I have mine made like that and it gets 10 Pounds of red brass from cold metal to pouring temp in 1/2 an hour. Annnd I am using standard natural Gas.
I feel so accomplished, and all I had to do was watch this and eat a sandwich. Great work
Damn, I love people's ingenuity sometimes. That angle grinder on a plywood fixture and using your microwave for the height...genius. lol. Made my day! Great stuff!
What a smart build! I’m in awe 🤩
This was one of the most entertaining videos I have ever watched! At first thought you were going to weld the handle that you spin open the lid with. A vibrator underneath the pan you pour the metal in may flatten out the shape at the top to make it smooth before it cools down too much and get the air bubbles out of the metal. I remember in my weld class for one semester we always had the slag on top of the metal and had to tap it with a hammer to break it off. All we did was weld some steel with oxycetaline torch and also weld a tool box we all made with a spot welder. We also got to arc weld a little bit. I was in electronics, but the one semester we had to take a class that involved some welding. That was one of the most enjoyable classes I was glad I took even though it was required for my associate degree in electronics. I loved all the forming you did using plastic and other materials until you got the desired outcome. I could see a 3D printer being used to create plastic molds for you to make other things out of cement as well and being able to remove the plastic.
Stick welder! About time some on on TH-cam welds like the rest of us savages.
A stick welder can be perform to a very high standard... in the right hands.
Excellent build! I like the use of the venturi burners. No need for a power burner when you're just babysitting the thing until you're ready to pour.
Awesome build, nice incorporated design using your dual gas ventures / burners which work very well. 👍👍👍
VERY CLEVER! Yes. I am jealous. Your design is functional and so ergonomic. I love it
Good job man! That puts those store bought devil forges to shame! Can't wait to see what you melt in it!
Somebody knows their way around the fabrication shop! One of the best builds I've seen on TH-cam in years! 💪👍
All that to make cupcakes??? I salute you, sir!
This is the best diy design ever seen! Can you tell some melting time?
It would also be great to have more info about that tongs!
That was intense. Very professional, even better than professional.
I am really amazed how creative yet simple your designs are
Keep it up
Ps: big fan of your work 😍😍😍🤩
Next time you are making a cast or mould using concrete or cement, cover the mould surface area with a thin layer of grease or thick oil, it will make extracting the mould much easier for you.
Awesome build, man!
I've built a couple of forges and a furnace, some with home-made refractory, one with commercial materials. I'd just like to say that I can really appreciate your design and execution😊
Super idée je vais testé ca
This is the best furnace-making video, a lot of intelligence there.
Overall, this was a very impressive build. I'd like to see a breakdown of the materials used & the overall cost. Did you think to include temperature sensors & gauge for specific metals, or is this just for aluminium/copper recycling?
Also, that pourer handle has to be one of the cleverest methods I've seen to hold & pour with a crucible full of molten metal. Most of the time it's a set of curved tongs that have to be held in an annoyingly awkward way with heavy gloves.
Nice - very nice.
I left my furnace behind when I moved - it was well weathered.
Considering a Devil's Forge, but may make a second from scratch instead.
Your video reminds me of the fun it was to make my first one.
Single port, forced air injection, charcoal powered - a bit slow, fully functional for aluminum.
Yours looks faster, hotter, and perhaps easily copper and brass capable.
Nicely done, sir.
Good video but it would have been more useful if you had explained mostly what materials and receipt you used like in the cement. Where did you get the fiberglass or wool insulation?
That's Awesome, BackstackD Castings would be impressed.
Another rock solid project by my favourite man-bun artiste. Thanks so much!
Awesome design! Definitely have to make one now!
Any updated?
The grinder jig alone makes this worth watching!
Мощная печь !👍
I am amazed you got away with using so much water with the cement.
cant wait new videos with melting stuff
That jig to pour the metal is genius 👌
Very good work!!!
This looks better than most commercially available furnaces! At least in the hobbiest price range.
nice video black beard projects
Very nice Furnace, BBP!!! it should serve you along time. Thanks for sharing.
Чем заливал? Неужели обычный цемент? Видео класс, Лайк однозначно.
@Руслан Моделист такои толщиной глина растреснулась бы. Там какая-то комбинированная смесь.
да,плохо что не показывает материал из которого делал
Огнеупорный состав скорее всего, сейчас такой продаётся.
Thanks!! I like when people think outside the box and go for it!
Is it hot enough to make a crucible steel?
For insolation u can use starlaite material homemade, because this alumosilicate foam can cost much: for 1kg starlite there is 400g flour, 200g sugar, 200g corn starch, 200g baking soda, 40g borax. This guy uses cement that will eventually crack. Make a starlite paste by mixing all those 5 indigrients with water but dry it out of water before using furnace for a week or so. For more info check out starlite in youtube.
Love to see you make gold or silver bullion some day - and then a secret treasure box to store it in :)
Wow, very nice build. Do you build them to sell?
its really good love your vdz from Pakistan
please try to only use the bottom burner, just to see if the upper one makes any difference. maybe its located to close to the exhaust hole. I believe that the second burner should be placed at the same height but 180 degrees apart from the other one. it would be very very interesting to not only guess but know for sure
Given this and other designs I've seen the idea is that the heat actually blows around the inner vessel in a sort of vortex, given his insulation is any good it shouldn't make much of a difference actually
@@xxportalxx. yes , but for a much shorter way than if it was located att the bottom. so I think it would be much more economical effective with both burners att the bottom
@@610324dan I think you're simply overestimating the locality of the heating, unlike a torch this oven has a body with insulation, the goal is to bring the chamber up to temperature, not just the focal point of the flame
@@xxportalxx. but the longer the flame travel the more heat it leave inside the chamber
nice build brother cant WAIT to watch your big melts bigstacked step aside black beard comin through lol
Spot on but i do wonder how the top concrete will hold up over time . Maybe use the base of a 44 gallon drum with 50 mm of the sides still atached so as to keep integrity of concrete and also reflect heat downward. You could also line with so ceramic blanket before you pour the cement top! 👍🏻
I was thinking that as well
🔥🔥🔥🔥👍
hello
@@shadybandit7 no
@@rocketman9838
مرحبا ما هي المواد التي صبيت فيها القالب
Great video 👌 but you may run into problems soon because you poured refractory directly onto a porous ceramic fiber blanket without sealing the surface first.
Such a smart design! Did you do this or were the plans available from somewhere?
This design looks robust and strong, but performs very poor on containing and isolating the heat. I would not recommend it.
@@shuvalassaf And what's the reasoning for your assertion here? As at the moment it's entirely baseless.
This is ok if you’re only planning on melting aluminium. I have a foundry made from an oil drum but use it for melting bronze. The problem with this design is there’s not much thermal insulation on the lid.
I use a full size oil drum with 7.5cm of ceramic wool then coated in 5cm of refractory cement. I can use an A35 crucible easily with that setup and it only takes 2 hours to melt a full crucible.
You’ll just have to work out what you’re going to be melting and work out what temperature you need before making it.
I think the size of this is a bit over kill for the size of the crucible. That looks like an A12 maximum which I used to use with a small propane foundry which was only a fraction of that size.
MrPhuct there’s no point spending way more money on map gas if you can do it with propane though.
Also I’m really commenting on this being a smart design. It’s more of a waste of the oil drum. There’s way more insulation than is needed on the walls and not enough on the top. Plus it has a chipboard bottom. Even if it doesn’t burn it won’t last very long.
If someone was going to make something similar I thing this is a poorly thought out design. You can get so much more out of an ‘oil drum’ foundry.
It’s a waste of materials (expensive materials) to make something so big for such a little crucible. To melt that material you have to heat up so much thermal mass it becomes more expensive.
For something like an A12 crucible (I assume that what it is from the video) all you need is 2 layers of ceramic wool in a mini oil drum (domestic frying oil drum) otherwise you’re just wasting fuel to heat something up that you’re not going to melt.
I have made several oil drum foundries and use them daily and I have had to strike the right balance for fuel efficiency, size of my castings, material and usage costs.
@MrPhuct what do you think about devil forge furnaces, would it be a nice investment over making one of these? Im planning on melting bronze copper aluminum and thats about it
I really like the way you work. Good luck
Круто, люблю его ролики
I wish I had a shop, that i could have tools and items like this, I would live there, practically
Is there a specific microwave oven that I need to act as a height gauge for the levelling out the cut in the first clip, I really enjoyed watching this video and looking forward to seeing some more of your videos....Phil 🇬🇧
DIY videos like this are so inspirational. The deep sense of satisfaction and pride in your own handiwork is something money can't buy.
I've had those muffins, they hurt the roof of my mouth
most under-rated comment.
There is a hardening solution you can spray on the kaowool to make rigid and hold shape. If you don't want to buy refractory cement ,that's a potential solution. It may be good to use it anyway. Sandwhiching an untreated layer between an inner and outer layer of rigid wool would prove to be quite long lasting
Ohhh hot muffin guy again :D
Thank you for showing how to properly and safely use kao wool. Too many videos showing unsealed kao wool being used. Nice build!
Чудово!
Simple and very efficient Idea for cutting the barrel evenly!
Что за жидкость ты наносил на ржавчину?
Преобразователь ржавчины с эффектом воронения
Good job super 👍👍👍
Hey Black Beard, you should wearing gloves with this project..ok..you know that😏
How much did this put back to make? And time?
Gloves?! Must have a union man here. Lol
Everything you need, nothin' you don't. Well Done!
....GOOD ONE, NICE JOB, STAY SAFE...
100% for the effort, 20% for the furnace
Lol
I melt aluminum, iron and even steel. My propane powered furnace easily hits 3800 degree F. The only suggestions I would make is 1 heat rises so you will probably loose your lid before the rest of the furnace breaks down. If you don't want to invest in more ceramic fiber for the lid I would suggest looking into aircrete it is light weight and holds heat great. 2. I don't think the double burner is going to achieve the disired result, but one decent burner on the bottom at an angle so the flames come in and swirl cyclonic action and heat rises naturally. But you are on the right track and for melting aluminum your furnace will do nicely for atleast a few hundred melts.
ok , so you gotta tell me how u can achieve 3800 degrees in a propane foundry......u must be ramming O2 into it huh?
And yet no videos that it even exists, much less melts steel, on your channel?
@@TroyeWelch YEAH, I'm not buyin it, 3800° is up there for just a propane furnace
That's a lot of insulation, I wish my forge was this efficient :D
In the future you may wanna use a silicon lubricant on the bucket and other plastic stuff you'll remove after cement* is cured - it's gonna slip out with ease. And remain usable!
* I'm not sure it's the proper english word but y'all know what I mean
Amazing work one of the best looking foundry I have seen and incredibly creative to the extreme