Just stated this video . I’ll be interested to see if choice of bushings is addressed. Ok I watch and I must say you did a good job with very clear explanations.
Great job. Just done one on a Westminster clock. Painful but it goes away when I see the results. Like new. To have the right tools makes it much easier.
Thank you. The re centering step was incorrectly omitted from this video which is very important. Make sure to also watch my video on how to re center a worn pivot hole.
Good technique, the drill press can give good results like a bushing machine. Important to advise viewers to locate the original pivot hole center, though.
At 7.18 you say that the cutter 0find the centre, but if the plate is moving, that will be no more the initial center...?In your other video you explain how to find the original center by reaming.Please correct me if I am wrong. Anyway very informative all you are showing us.Thank you😊
Thanks so much for taking the time to produce your videos. Ive just started getting into clocks, so im still learning trrminology. You have great presentation skills. As a beginner id appreciate someone taking an old clock off the shelf and looking at it like a beginner. How do you examine the clock, determine problems, what are the typical jobs a beginner is capable of doing as he learns, is it ok to do a dunk, swish, dry, and reoil if clock is running but just dirty, typical stuff a beginner might encounter. Thanks again!
Vey clear explaned. I have a worn clock, I go look at it. But need tools first. Where to get these cutters and other stuff, I have a pcb cnc mill (0.0005 mm precise) also.
Chris thanks for sharing your skills. I know that you do it but show the viewers how you correct the worn pivot holes to put them back on center before you do your final reaming.
@@G3sgofast sorry I didn’t show this in my video. You can do it in a couple different ways. Either using a needle file or your cutting broach. You want to insert your cutting broach into the hole so that it is straight on the unworn part of the hole. You then want to cut this open until you have opened the original hole to the size of the worn part of the hole. Now it should be round and on center. Then you can put it under the drill press and finish off the hole with your cutters. I hope i explained that well. I will have to redo the video and include that step.
@@G3sgofast if the hole is really worn badly, you can use a centering tool to find center first. You will have to have tooling to secure the plate so it doesnt move when you switch the centering tool for your cutter. I hope that helps!
As someone whose newer to clock repair, thank you for making this. It shocks me how cheap drill presses are and the possibility of me getting one is pretty high.
@@Chrisclockrepair Yes, I would like to see a discussion on clock cleaning for the hobbyist. Specifically what is used as cleaning solution, rinsing solution and drying method, Can a clock be cleaned without teardown? Is there a cleaning or rinsing solution that will not remove varnish from movement? Can a clock be cleaned using spray bottles with toothbrush and painter tiny brush? Maybe Simple Green in a spray bottle, compressed air, hot rinsing water in a spray bottle, 91% Isopropyl Alcohol in a spray bottle, hair dryer. Or something else?? Would love to see a barebones video on cleaning for the hobbyist who just needs to clean and oil as opposed to teardown, clean, repair and oil.
Watch my other video on centering: Clock Repair - How to Center a Worn Pivot Hole by Hand #clockrepair #centerawornpivothole th-cam.com/video/rx3HKmlDFCA/w-d-xo.html
Hi, i have a Franz Hemle 341-021A wall clock and with the chimer onn the randomly stops at 6.30 but if i turn off the chimer its fine any idea what it could be please ?
I just found your channel. Thank you for sharing. I have not attempted rebushing yet. I was told that a regular drill press was too fast to use for a reamer. I am glad to see this debunked, as I did not want to buy a bushing tool. Another thing I was told was to be certain to work harden the inside of the bushing with a smooth broach after getting the right diameter. I notice that you do not do this. Do you find it unnecessary? Did I miss a step? Thanks, again!
Hi there. You can use a drill press for reaming providing that you centered the hole first by hand which unfortunately Is not in this video. And yes it is recommended that you use a smoothing broach afterwards, however the clock will run for many years without it but the smoothing broach is the recommended practice. I was not using smoothing broaches at the time I made this video but I am now. I am learning too.
With the hole being slightly off centre from excessive wear, won't your bushing now be slightly off centre to its original position? Surely some compensation would be required when drilling out for the bushing?
You are correct. I mistakenly left the re centering step out of this video. Watch my "How to re center a worn pivot hole" video and I show how this is done.
Hi Chris, Your lessons perfectly. Thank you so much. I’m from Turkey. I need to Bregon cutter set. I want to buy it. Could you give me an advice ? Which model ? I repair only wall clock and grandfather clocks. BR.
Okay.... But I gotta ask, how do you keep the drill centered in the bad bushing hole? It would seem to me that the drill wouldn't center and thus make the hole off. I've seen all kind of jigs, clamps, and you're using a mason jar with a drill press. Don't you need to center the hole first?
Hi Chris! Thanks for the video! I have a cuckoo clock with a Bachmaier movement and a top mounted music box. Can you point me towards a tutorial on adjusting the music box? I saw your video on the side mount box, but this one does not seem to be similar. Thanks so much Chris!
@@Chrisclockrepair Chris! You are so awesome for replying so quickly! I also posted to NAWCC and they got back to me in record time and clarified the problem to me. Turns out the movement is a lot closer to the side mount, that you explained, than I realized. I was able to get it in shape and adjusted. Thank you so much! Your videos are teaching me so much about this great hobby!
Hell Chris, thank you for the videos. It awesome to see my peer groop working on Watches and Clocks. I have a few tips to improve your precision if you are interested.
@@mainarbor8416 yes. The clock police came after me for that one. I intend to redo this video. I left out the step on how to recenter the worn hole before reaming. I am always looking for more precision!
@@Chrisclockrepair Im west coast but would enjoy an exchange. Ill have to message at a later time. When we can exchange info and keep anonymity we should. Ill message soon. Ps. Ill share anything I know to keep the industry strong for us little yet over worked guys strong.
Hi Chris, great video, I have two clocks, which are not working after a good clean, want to try bushing , is a bench drill all you need? Bushing presses are v expensive, also any chance you can let me know the basic tools I would need , to replace bush ? Any help would be great , thanks
For some reason, YT keeps deleting my comments. I'll try again. I like how detailed your videos are, especially for us beginners. I am wanting to attempt my first bushing job. What EXACTLY do I need besides going broke buying bushing machines?. I see you use a drill press. There are affordable ones on Amazon...would they suffice?. Do these Bergeon and KWM reamers fit in a regular drill press or do they only fit their special machines?. What brand did you use in your drill press?. Please...I would like to know specifics. No step is too baby. I have a movement I need to put escapement bushings in but I do not have thousands of dollars to lay out for bushing machines and all this fancy equipment. What EXACTLY do I need to start?. Thanks so much for your time and videos.
@@Chrisclockrepair Thanks much. Of all the videos I've watched on bushing installation, you're the only one I've seen drill a hole in the bushing 0.10 mm larger than the pivot after you installed the bushing. Clever addition. Did you just use a regular drill bit 0.10 mm larger?. It looked like it. I saw something on Timesavers that may be an inexpensive alternative for us virgins wanting to try this bushing install for the first time (truthfully, I'm getting somewhat discouraged with all these different cutters, reamers, broaches, etc. needed): it was a clamp on for an electric screwdriver to keep the reamer true when drilling the hole. Why wouldn't that work?. It was $46.50 compared the price of a drill press, not to mention the price of those bushing machines
What this excellent video tells me, is I need to find someone who will take my plates, insert bushings, and return. How to go about that ? While I agree that a drill press can be had, the collection of all the other tools, bits, reamers, broaches, end mill, and so on, is beyond my reach, particularly for a single movement.
Yes. Unless you are learning the trade, if your clock needs repair, it should be done by a professional. And even among “professionals” there is oft times a wide gap in craftsmanship.
Thanks. Actually I center the holes by hand with a reamer first. I will be doing my next video on how this is done. I show this omitted step in my quail cuckoo video.
There is no way I am taking it apart! My middle weight gets stuck, and the clock stops. It's only three years old. It's a Howard Miller my husband got for me for Christmas. I guess calling a clock repairman is better for me. I can't even imagine doing this. Thanks so much, but I'll have to pass. Good luck to the rest of you!!
Great video learned allot about hobbyist not needing expensive bushing tool machinery. But now I need to know exactly what to purchase to repair a single bushing pair. I can accumulate addition tool sizes as bushing repairs are needed on my collection of Mantel Clocks. So minimum would be? I have digital caliper and small harbor freight drill press and I guess your cutters are Bergeon? would need the tool that holds the cutters, whatever that is called or would the cutters just be used with the standard drill chuck on drill press, I need 2 specific bushing CUTTERS based on pivot measurement, I could use larger drill bit instead of CHAMFER, need WIRE DRILL SET 0-60 maybe Huot , maybe 4" PVC coupler to hold plate on drill press, a specific size five sided BROACH, an aluminum or steel rod for PUSHER. and the 2 BUSHINGS themselves, can they be purchased individually or do you purchase a whole set or a small set of the most common used for Mantel Clocks? I guess the bushings all have an undersized hole that has to be drilled and broached to the size required? Is that about it and where would I purchase the tools, Timesavers, Ebay?? Sure appreciate your videos and advice.
Hi Larry, Yes my cutters are bergeon. I would suggest for a standard antique mantle clock you would need a 1.97mm, 2.47mm, 2.97mm and a 3.47mm cutter. You can purchase a bergeon reamer adapter for drill press at timesavers. That's what I use. I would buy a small set of 5-sided broaches. They usually come in a pack of 5 from size .77mm to 2.27mm or similar range. With these you should be able to bush any size hole on a mantle clock. You can order individual bushing sizes for each of your cutters in 10 or 25packs usually. I would get one set for each cutter. Make sure you gradually cut up to a larger size hole. Also, you want to use a bushing size OD that is 2x the size of your gear pivot OD. So if it is a 1.5mm pivot, use a 3mm bushing. I buy most of my tools and parts from timesavers or micromark. Hope that helps.
@@Chrisclockrepair Wow, thanks Chris, that's exactly what I needed. Specific information on sizes and description of what tools and supplies I need to purchase to get started with bushing repair for standard mantel clocks. Now I've got a wish list to work with and can get started shopping around. Thanks again and I may check back with you for advice. Great videos, very thorough instructions and teaching/training skills!
@@Chrisclockrepair Thank you for the great video. What about tools and bushings for regulators/wall clocks. Can you advise the sizes of cutters,broaches and bushings.
You should be using a reamer to cut the holes so as long as the bushing are sized for your reamer, your good. To post drill the bushings with drills, you just need to find a size that is slightly larger than the pivot
You mentioned that the hole was worn and needed to be bushed. What you didn’t show them was how you compensate for an oblong hole to make it dead center again after it’s bushed. I put the Plates together when reaming and use a broach that goes thru both holes to make sure the hole is dead true and perpendicular between the plates. My opinion is you oversized the hole for the pivot and will wear out sooner and could cause a depthing problem with each gear that engages with the bushed gear. The thickness of the bushing isn’t determined by the plate thickness,nits determined by the length of the pivot. If upon checking the end shake you see the pivot doesn’t protrude the bushing then you need to use a shorter bushing or sink the bushing to the point of just barely uncovering the tip of the pivot at extreme end shake and end mill the rest of the bushing from the back side of the plate. Having a short pivot in a long bushing will cause endshake problems as the pivot wears. You do a good job otherwise and everybody’s technique is a little different but the end result is to have a properly bushed pivot in every aspect including the depthing of the gears involved. I’ve got 55 years at the bench and am a Certified Master Clocksmith with AWI. Installing a bushing is very important, as I have come across many a botched job in my years. Do you also have videos showing the assembly after the bushing procedure is complete? This is usually the deal breaker with any novice as there are many challenges to making sure every cam, lever, pin is in the proper place in order for the chime and strike to properly function. I think what you are doing is good in fact to the inexperienced person who thinks anybody can fix a clock, as it shows them that leave this to the trained professional if you want the job done correctly. I have received basket repairs where the whole clock is in every state of partial bad work and not assembled because the customer bit off more than they imagined. 😮
Thanks for the expert comment! I do have a separate video for how i center the worn pivot hole and a separate video showing how instal the rack and snail front works.
How much generally does it cost to repivot holes on average...like a range from x to x. I see lots of clocks which are pretty cheap that dont run but I guess due to repairs they are only worth something when they are running.
Probably just me but I thought the bush is always inserted into the inside of the plate so if it loosened it would remain on the arbour, which is what you did. However you ended up the excess to be cut off on the inside? Which was pushed in flat? Surely the excess should have been on the outside and cutting off would remove the oil sink? Did my eyes deceive me?
I pushed the oil sink through the inside of the plate so it is flat on the outside. Then i cut excess off from inside leaving flat on inside and oil sink on outside.
@@Chrisclockrepair ah. Ok I thought you pushed it through flat to inside, so on jar how did you know it was flat on outside? Still don’t understand, is it not easier to push flat on inside then cut off excess on outside and form oil sink with countersink on outside?
@@gordonlumer2879 I understand your dilemma. I don’t push the bushings in while it’s over a jar. I push them in while it’s over a block so it’s flat. Then I put it over a jar to cut it down
@@Chrisclockrepair Fair enough, still makes more sense to me to bang in flush from inside and then sort out outside but there again I have not done bushing yet, just researching. Thanks you’re videos are great. I’m still looking at the warning pin set up on striking clocks as I’ve played with them but can’t seem to get them right. Thanks again.
@@gordonlumer2879 Hey. That is certainly a way to do it. But then you cut away your oil sink and have to cut out a new one. also you run the risk of potentially cutting into your plate on the outside.
I'm sorry but you neglected to find the center of the hole remembering that the hole is oblong. Then drilling the hole. Your new bushings are not centered. The pivot pushes up from the weight or spring leaving an oblong hole. You need to center from the bottom of the hole. I'm sorry but you have misled many of these new people. Patrick
You're absolutely right. If you read the earlier comments you will see that this has been noted. I will be releasing a new video to show this critical step.
Sorry, Patrick, but you are also wrong. The wear is not directly from the weight or spring except on the first wheel. The forces are directed from each wheel to the pinion gear of the following wheel. Thus, the direction of wear alternates in direction and is NOT at the bottom of each pivot hoke. In fact, the wear is likely not even perpendicular to the bottom, but opposite the direction of the force applied by the wheel teeth to the pinion leaves. Sorry, but YOU have misled many new people.
BTW, I notice your channel is just overflowing with clock repair videos. In fact, you offer NOTHING to the TH-cam community. You know what that makes you? A TROLL!!!!
@@dperry428 I don't agree with you. Misleading, no you need to find the pivot center. I rewatched the video and I still do not agree with your technique. The plate must be held rigid, no floating to find the center. You can't just let a cutter drift. Centering the oblong pivot hole is all important. I stand by what I said.
@@dperry428 Troll no, just because you do repairs on a TH-cam doesn't mean your technique is correct. That wasn't a very nice thing to say. I use TH-cam to check the other people's technique so I can improve my technique. Having a TH-cam channel doesn't make you an authority. We all need to learn and hone our skills. That's why I watch everyone's videos. I have learned so much. I have been repairing clocks and watches for over 50 years. I also built from flat brass and steel rods clocks that work. Troll no just honing my skills.
I was thinking just the opposite. Having blown glass for a living in my past, I understand how strong the glass is when pressure is applied across the entire lip. Now, if there was some sort of wire, or a sharp raised edge on the brass plate, then the glass could potentially be compromised.
Just stated this video . I’ll be interested to see if choice of bushings is addressed.
Ok I watch and I must say you did a good job with very clear explanations.
I'm a beginner at this...the very beginning. I need all the training I can get. Your video is an excellent start.
Thank you. Be sure to watch my "how to re center a worn pivot hole" video as this is necessary for good bushing work.
Keep doin' what your doin" Chris; it's good to see young people getting into the repair business.
Thanks DPerry!
That is an excellent visual explanation. Great verbal skills also.
Thank you.
Great job. Just done one on a Westminster clock. Painful but it goes away when I see the results. Like new. To have the right tools makes it much easier.
Amen to that.
Great job..Your attention to detail.is very helpful 😊
Thank you. The re centering step was incorrectly omitted from this video which is very important. Make sure to also watch my video on how to re center a worn pivot hole.
Good technique, the drill press can give good results like a bushing machine. Important to advise viewers to locate the original pivot hole center, though.
Great info and nice I am a beginner at this and 86 years old and want to fix the clock dad maid many many years ago. I has just stopped working.
Good luck to you. Be patient and take care to study it well
I love clocks and have just started to do some repair work Great Video, boy do I have a ton to learn!
Fantastic...you're an excellent teacher.
At 7.18 you say that the cutter 0find the centre, but if the plate is moving, that will be no more the initial center...?In your other video you explain how to find the original center by reaming.Please correct me if I am wrong. Anyway very informative all you are showing us.Thank you😊
Thanks so much,very informative.
How will I know the drill tip has found the true center of the original hole in the plate? And that I'm not off to one side? Thanks in advance.
Nice Video, only one thing missing, after 5 side broaching you should really smooth broach afterwards.
Yes. I do that now. I didn’t back then. Video needs updating
Thanks for the informative video I need to do this on one of my clocks as the hole is worn
Thanks so much for taking the time to produce your videos. Ive just started getting into clocks, so im still learning trrminology. You have great presentation skills. As a beginner id appreciate someone taking an old clock off the shelf and looking at it like a beginner. How do you examine the clock, determine problems, what are the typical jobs a beginner is capable of doing as he learns, is it ok to do a dunk, swish, dry, and reoil if clock is running but just dirty, typical stuff a beginner might encounter. Thanks again!
Thank you. I will see what I can do.
thanks for sharing this. Is there a specific name for the end mill you used? It looks like is has a centering post.
Its called a pivot cutter. You can get them at timesavers or merritts
Vey clear explaned. I have a worn clock, I go look at it. But need tools first. Where to get these cutters and other stuff, I have a pcb cnc mill (0.0005 mm precise) also.
Timesavers
Im afraid my Herchede needs this done. The clock shop said could be 1200.00 for the repair. More than it originally cost Im sure.
Chris thanks for sharing your skills. I know that you do it but show the viewers how you correct the worn pivot holes to put them back on center before you do your final reaming.
Let me add a 'second' to this request..If you have 'tricks' I'd appreciate it if you could present them too...thanks
@@G3sgofast sorry I didn’t show this in my video. You can do it in a couple different ways. Either using a needle file or your cutting broach. You want to insert your cutting broach into the hole so that it is straight on the unworn part of the hole. You then want to cut this open until you have opened the original hole to the size of the worn part of the hole. Now it should be round and on center. Then you can put it under the drill press and finish off the hole with your cutters.
I hope i explained that well. I will have to redo the video and include that step.
@@G3sgofast if the hole is really worn badly, you can use a centering tool to find center first. You will have to have tooling to secure the plate so it doesnt move when you switch the centering tool for your cutter. I hope that helps!
As someone whose newer to clock repair, thank you for making this. It shocks me how cheap drill presses are and the possibility of me getting one is pretty high.
Absolutely. I’m glad you’re getting value from it. Is there anything in particular you would like to see in a future video?
@@Chrisclockrepair Yes, I would like to see a discussion on clock cleaning for the hobbyist. Specifically what is used as cleaning solution, rinsing solution and drying method, Can a clock be cleaned without teardown? Is there a cleaning or rinsing solution that will not remove varnish from movement? Can a clock be cleaned using spray bottles with toothbrush and painter tiny brush? Maybe Simple Green in a spray bottle, compressed air, hot rinsing water in a spray bottle, 91% Isopropyl Alcohol in a spray bottle, hair dryer. Or something else?? Would love to see a barebones video on cleaning for the hobbyist who just needs to clean and oil as opposed to teardown, clean, repair and oil.
@@larryearlgosnell Sure thing. I can do a video like that!
Hi Chris If you beginner and you have not reamers and set of Begean bushing .How smaller the hole in the plate should be for new bushing?
The diameter of the hole should be 0.03 mm smaller than the bushing.
On the end cutter, what is the diameter of the guild? Works the same way as a counter bore in tool and die, but your hole is to size in that case.
Great Video, but one question, Isn't the new pivot hole now slightly off-center in the direction of the original wear?
Watch my other video on centering:
Clock Repair - How to Center a Worn Pivot Hole by Hand #clockrepair #centerawornpivothole
th-cam.com/video/rx3HKmlDFCA/w-d-xo.html
Chris, this is a really informative video, love your work 😃
Hi, i have a Franz Hemle 341-021A wall clock and with the chimer onn the randomly stops at 6.30 but if i turn off the chimer its fine any idea what it could be please ?
Does it only stop at 6:30 or does it stop at other times?
I just found your channel. Thank you for sharing. I have not attempted rebushing yet. I was told that a regular drill press was too fast to use for a reamer. I am glad to see this debunked, as I did not want to buy a bushing tool. Another thing I was told was to be certain to work harden the inside of the bushing with a smooth broach after getting the right diameter. I notice that you do not do this. Do you find it unnecessary? Did I miss a step?
Thanks, again!
Hi there. You can use a drill press for reaming providing that you centered the hole first by hand which unfortunately Is not in this video. And yes it is recommended that you use a smoothing broach afterwards, however the clock will run for many years without it but the smoothing broach is the recommended practice. I was not using smoothing broaches at the time I made this video but I am now. I am learning too.
With the hole being slightly off centre from excessive wear, won't your bushing now be slightly off centre to its original position? Surely some compensation would be required when drilling out for the bushing?
You are correct. I mistakenly left the re centering step out of this video. Watch my "How to re center a worn pivot hole" video and I show how this is done.
Hi Chris,
Your lessons perfectly. Thank you so much. I’m from Turkey. I need to Bregon cutter set. I want to buy it. Could you give me an advice ? Which model ?
I repair only wall clock and grandfather clocks.
BR.
Kwm or bergeon will do the trick. Whichever system you are more comfortable with
You said you slow the jar to move a little to find center is that correct and how much pressure do you apply to the plate
Keep the plate firm so its flat on jar, but allow it to rotate so the bit finds the center. It takes practice
Thanks!
Okay.... But I gotta ask, how do you keep the drill centered in the bad bushing hole? It would seem to me that the drill wouldn't center and thus make the hole off. I've seen all kind of jigs, clamps, and you're using a mason jar with a drill press. Don't you need to center the hole first?
Yes. I center it first by hand cutting. I didn’t show this on video and i need to fix that.
Thank you it is enlighten to see you taking the time to do this, would like to know where to get all the tools.
I get my tools from timesavers or merritts
Hi Chris! Thanks for the video! I have a cuckoo clock with a Bachmaier movement and a top mounted music box. Can you point me towards a tutorial on adjusting the music box? I saw your video on the side mount box, but this one does not seem to be similar. Thanks so much Chris!
Can you email me a photo.
@@Chrisclockrepair Chris! You are so awesome for replying so quickly! I also posted to NAWCC and they got back to me in record time and clarified the problem to me. Turns out the movement is a lot closer to the side mount, that you explained, than I realized. I was able to get it in shape and adjusted. Thank you so much! Your videos are teaching me so much about this great hobby!
@@rickgreen7794 fantastic! Good skill to you
I am, however, looking for the hunter topper for that clock. Please let me know if you know where I can find one! Thanks Chris!
Hell Chris, thank you for the videos. It awesome to see my peer groop working on Watches and Clocks. I have a few tips to improve your precision if you are interested.
Ps. You lost concentricity when you let the bushing reemer find center in a worn hole.
@@mainarbor8416 yes. The clock police came after me for that one. I intend to redo this video. I left out the step on how to recenter the worn hole before reaming. I am always looking for more precision!
@@Chrisclockrepair Im west coast but would enjoy an exchange. Ill have to message at a later time. When we can exchange info and keep anonymity we should. Ill message soon. Ps. Ill share anything I know to keep the industry strong for us little yet over worked guys strong.
@@mainarbor8416 you can always send me an email at Chrisclockrepair@gmail.com
Really helpfull video.
Great!
Impressive!
Fantastic work thank you
Hi Chris, great video, I have two clocks, which are not working after a good clean, want to try bushing , is a bench drill all you need? Bushing presses are v expensive, also any chance you can let me know the basic tools I would need , to replace bush ? Any help would be great , thanks
Its all in my video. You can use a press or do by hand.
I am releasing a video tomorrow that is an addendum to this video that may also help you
Absolutely love the video! But it cut off at the side Shake info
For some reason, YT keeps deleting my comments. I'll try again.
I like how detailed your videos are, especially for us beginners. I am wanting to attempt my first bushing job.
What EXACTLY do I need besides going broke buying bushing machines?. I see you use a drill press.
There are affordable ones on Amazon...would they suffice?. Do these Bergeon and KWM reamers fit in a regular drill press or do they only fit their special machines?.
What brand did you use in your drill press?. Please...I would like to know specifics. No step is too baby.
I have a movement I need to put escapement bushings in but I do not have thousands of dollars to lay out for bushing machines and all this fancy equipment.
What EXACTLY do I need to start?. Thanks so much for your time and videos.
I have never used a bushing machine. Everything you need is in my video and can all be purchased at timesavers.
@@Chrisclockrepair Thanks much. Of all the videos I've watched on bushing installation, you're the only one I've seen drill a hole in the bushing 0.10 mm larger than the pivot after you installed the bushing. Clever addition. Did you just use a regular drill bit 0.10 mm larger?. It looked like it.
I saw something on Timesavers that may be an inexpensive alternative for us virgins wanting to try this bushing install for the first time (truthfully, I'm getting somewhat discouraged with all these different cutters, reamers, broaches, etc. needed): it was a clamp on for an electric screwdriver to keep the reamer true when drilling the hole. Why wouldn't that work?. It was $46.50 compared the price of a drill press, not to mention the price of those bushing machines
What this excellent video tells me, is I need to find someone who will take my plates, insert bushings, and return. How to go about that ? While I agree that a drill press can be had, the collection of all the other tools, bits, reamers, broaches, end mill, and so on, is beyond my reach, particularly for a single movement.
Yes. Unless you are learning the trade, if your clock needs repair, it should be done by a professional. And even among “professionals” there is oft times a wide gap in craftsmanship.
Wonderful video!!! Quick question did you file the worn pivot holes first before you drilled them out?
Thanks. Actually I center the holes by hand with a reamer first. I will be doing my next video on how this is done. I show this omitted step in my quail cuckoo video.
@@Chrisclockrepair Awesome thanks !!
There is no way I am taking it apart! My middle weight gets stuck, and the clock stops. It's only three years old. It's a Howard Miller my husband got for me for Christmas. I guess calling a clock repairman is better for me. I can't even imagine doing this. Thanks so much, but I'll have to pass. Good luck to the rest of you!!
oh and I thought you were supposed to smooth broach after? But I am just a beginner!
See my other video mentioned.
Very interesting 👌
Great video learned allot about hobbyist not needing expensive bushing tool machinery. But now I need to know exactly what to purchase to repair a single bushing pair. I can accumulate addition tool sizes as bushing repairs are needed on my collection of Mantel Clocks. So minimum would be? I have digital caliper and small harbor freight drill press and I guess your cutters are Bergeon? would need the tool that holds the cutters, whatever that is called or would the cutters just be used with the standard drill chuck on drill press, I need 2 specific bushing CUTTERS based on pivot measurement, I could use larger drill bit instead of CHAMFER, need WIRE DRILL SET 0-60 maybe Huot , maybe 4" PVC coupler to hold plate on drill press, a specific size five sided BROACH, an aluminum or steel rod for PUSHER. and the 2 BUSHINGS themselves, can they be purchased individually or do you purchase a whole set or a small set of the most common used for Mantel Clocks? I guess the bushings all have an undersized hole that has to be drilled and broached to the size required? Is that about it and where would I purchase the tools, Timesavers, Ebay?? Sure appreciate your videos and advice.
Hi Larry, Yes my cutters are bergeon. I would suggest for a standard antique mantle clock you would need a 1.97mm, 2.47mm, 2.97mm and a 3.47mm cutter. You can purchase a bergeon reamer adapter for drill press at timesavers. That's what I use. I would buy a small set of 5-sided broaches. They usually come in a pack of 5 from size .77mm to 2.27mm or similar range. With these you should be able to bush any size hole on a mantle clock. You can order individual bushing sizes for each of your cutters in 10 or 25packs usually. I would get one set for each cutter.
Make sure you gradually cut up to a larger size hole. Also, you want to use a bushing size OD that is 2x the size of your gear pivot OD. So if it is a 1.5mm pivot, use a 3mm bushing.
I buy most of my tools and parts from timesavers or micromark.
Hope that helps.
@@Chrisclockrepair Wow, thanks Chris, that's exactly what I needed. Specific information on sizes and description of what tools and supplies I need to purchase to get started with bushing repair for standard mantel clocks. Now I've got a wish list to work with and can get started shopping around. Thanks again and I may check back with you for advice. Great videos, very thorough instructions and teaching/training skills!
@@larryearlgosnell Fantastic! I love to hear that.
@@Chrisclockrepair Thank you for the great video. What about tools and bushings for regulators/wall clocks. Can you advise the sizes of cutters,broaches and bushings.
@@mohsenahmad772 please see my earlier reply
Is it possible to use a Standard drill bit set for a re-bushing on a cuckoo clock, instead of a metric set?
You should be using a reamer to cut the holes so as long as the bushing are sized for your reamer, your good. To post drill the bushings with drills, you just need to find a size that is slightly larger than the pivot
@@Chrisclockrepair so I have to ream the hole 1mm smaller than the bushing O/D?
@@8953147 The way mine are set up it is 0.03 mm smaller than bushing outer diameter
@@Chrisclockrepair Thanks so much!
You mentioned that the hole was worn and needed to be bushed. What you didn’t show them was how you compensate for an oblong hole to make it dead center again after it’s bushed. I put the Plates together when reaming and use a broach that goes thru both holes to make sure the hole is dead true and perpendicular between the plates. My opinion is you oversized the hole for the pivot and will wear out sooner and could cause a depthing problem with each gear that engages with the bushed gear. The thickness of the bushing isn’t determined by the plate thickness,nits determined by the length of the pivot. If upon checking the end shake you see the pivot doesn’t protrude the bushing then you need to use a shorter bushing or sink the bushing to the point of just barely uncovering the tip of the pivot at extreme end shake and end mill the rest of the bushing from the back side of the plate. Having a short pivot in a long bushing will cause endshake problems as the pivot wears. You do a good job otherwise and everybody’s technique is a little different but the end result is to have a properly bushed pivot in every aspect including the depthing of the gears involved. I’ve got 55 years at the bench and am a Certified Master Clocksmith with AWI. Installing a bushing is very important, as I have come across many a botched job in my years. Do you also have videos showing the assembly after the bushing procedure is complete? This is usually the deal breaker with any novice as there are many challenges to making sure every cam, lever, pin is in the proper place in order for the chime and strike to properly function. I think what you are doing is good in fact to the inexperienced person who thinks anybody can fix a clock, as it shows them that leave this to the trained professional if you want the job done correctly. I have received basket repairs where the whole clock is in every state of partial bad work and not assembled because the customer bit off more than they imagined. 😮
Thanks for the expert comment! I do have a separate video for how i center the worn pivot hole and a separate video showing how instal the rack and snail front works.
How much generally does it cost to repivot holes on average...like a range from x to x. I see lots of clocks which are pretty cheap that dont run but I guess due to repairs they are only worth something when they are running.
It depends on the clock. For an antique countwheel hour, half-hour strike I charge 285 with a warranty, but thats a full rebuild
Probably just me but I thought the bush is always inserted into the inside of the plate so if it loosened it would remain on the arbour, which is what you did. However you ended up the excess to be cut off on the inside? Which was pushed in flat? Surely the excess should have been on the outside and cutting off would remove the oil sink? Did my eyes deceive me?
I pushed the oil sink through the inside of the plate so it is flat on the outside. Then i cut excess off from inside leaving flat on inside and oil sink on outside.
@@Chrisclockrepair ah. Ok I thought you pushed it through flat to inside, so on jar how did you know it was flat on outside? Still don’t understand, is it not easier to push flat on inside then cut off excess on outside and form oil sink with countersink on outside?
@@gordonlumer2879 I understand your dilemma. I don’t push the bushings in while it’s over a jar. I push them in while it’s over a block so it’s flat. Then I put it over a jar to cut it down
@@Chrisclockrepair Fair enough, still makes more sense to me to bang in flush from inside and then sort out outside but there again I have not done bushing yet, just researching. Thanks you’re videos are great. I’m still looking at the warning pin set up on striking clocks as I’ve played with them but can’t seem to get them right. Thanks again.
@@gordonlumer2879 Hey. That is certainly a way to do it. But then you cut away your oil sink and have to cut out a new one. also you run the risk of potentially cutting into your plate on the outside.
Precision
Bushing machine with KWM bushings...much faster and more accurate.
I'm sorry but you neglected to find the center of the hole remembering that the hole is oblong. Then drilling the hole. Your new bushings are not centered. The pivot pushes up from the weight or spring leaving an oblong hole. You need to center from the bottom of the hole. I'm sorry but you have misled many of these new people.
Patrick
You're absolutely right. If you read the earlier comments you will see that this has been noted. I will be releasing a new video to show this critical step.
Sorry, Patrick, but you are also wrong. The wear is not directly from the weight or spring except on the first wheel. The forces are directed from each wheel to the pinion gear of the following wheel. Thus, the direction of wear alternates in direction and is NOT at the bottom of each pivot hoke. In fact, the wear is likely not even perpendicular to the bottom, but opposite the direction of the force applied by the wheel teeth to the pinion leaves. Sorry, but YOU have misled many new people.
BTW, I notice your channel is just overflowing with clock repair videos. In fact, you offer NOTHING to the TH-cam community. You know what that makes you? A TROLL!!!!
@@dperry428 I don't agree with you. Misleading, no you need to find the pivot center. I rewatched the video and I still do not agree with your technique. The plate must be held rigid, no floating to find the center. You can't just let a cutter drift. Centering the oblong pivot hole is all important. I stand by what I said.
@@dperry428 Troll no, just because you do repairs on a TH-cam doesn't mean your technique is correct. That wasn't a very nice thing to say. I use TH-cam to check the other people's technique so I can improve my technique. Having a TH-cam channel doesn't make you an authority. We all need to learn and hone our skills. That's why I watch everyone's videos.
I have learned so much.
I have been repairing clocks and watches for over 50 years. I also built from flat brass and steel rods clocks that work. Troll no just honing my skills.
A glass jar!!!!!!!!!! Are u serious... WOW. NOT CLEVER...
Hahaha
I was thinking just the opposite. Having blown glass for a living in my past, I understand how strong the glass is when pressure is applied across the entire lip. Now, if there was some sort of wire, or a sharp raised edge on the brass plate, then the glass could potentially be compromised.