@@AlpacoFilms You’re the second person to ask me that and gave me the idea to set up a Google Drive folder or something to share some of my test footage. Unfortunately, I normally delete most of it after the video goes online, for storage reasons 😅. But I decided I’m going to keep future test footage and share it somehow. You can expect some more info on that soon, once I’ve made some new footage and set something up.
@@RedFrameTech completely get that! Sucker is TOO big to keep lol! I had to buy more storage just to keep my ProRes RAW tests for the GH5s, Olympus E-M1.3, and OM-1. Not worth the space to use for everyday but I do love comparing all the ProRes RAWS!
Great Video, thank you for taking the time to do this, I like your delivery and honest 'down to earth' approach. I've been a GH user for a few years now and just invested in the GH6, of which your videos helped me make the decision. I've been tinkering and really happy with the results. I've been inspired to start doing TH-cam videos about the the camera and things that are interest me in general, so thank you again. My first one being the GH6 and the 'journey' of getting to grips with this marvelous little machine.
That’s so awesome to hear! Keep up the TH-cam videos. It’s a great way to get to know your camera. I honestly learn so much from making these videos. Thanks for watching! And subbed to your channel. Curious to see what you’re going to make with your GH6
37:54 - When ISO is assigned to the Menu / Set wheel, you can simply turn it real quick to go to Auto ISO. No additional button press needed. Takes 1 second to do.
True, but that doesn’t make it much different from how it is as a default. If it works for you, that’s great! But I’d rather not give up a custom button/dial for a function that has a dedicated button on the camera already. It’s also more about the scrolling that I have a ‘problem’ with. I would like to be able to actually switch, not scroll, between AUTO and my last set ISO value.
Thank you for this video. I went from the GH4 to the GH6 and loving the camera. I love your videos, your calm, laid back style is so nice compared to the very loud other video guys on YT, haha. Mazzel!
Audio on the GH6 with the XLR1 is excellent. I've been using the XLR1 with the GH5s since 2018 and it can also be used with the S5II, etc., so Panasonic isn't reinventing the wheel with every camera upgrade and your investment carries over. As for a top handle, I use SmallRig's "Top Handle for Sony/Panasonic Cameras with Top Audio Adapter" ($69). It is easily height-adjustable to allow the XLR1 to be attached and still grab the camera, mount a monitor and other things as well. The SmallRig handle is very tough; I used it on a Komodo fully rigged out with swing-away mattebox and Cooke primes on a feature film recently including action handheld work and it was flawless. Thanks for this video on the GH6; we love ours.
I am starting to use GH6 with a 12-35 f2.8 and this video is perfect for me… thanks and looking forward to watch other videos on the power solution etc…
27:09 - You are not supposed to "bake in" the bars (as was also done in this video). Like you I prefer shooting in 16:9 but on a video with say a 2.35 final intended aspect ratio, I record in 16:9 or even 4:3, with a 2.35 frame guide turned on in camera. Then on the timeline I set my own arbitrary frame size such as 1920x818 or 3840x1636 for the 2.35 aspect ratio. The bars are then naturally generated by the video player and display device.
Thanks for your comments! You’re correct about the workflow for a widescreen aspect ratio. That’s also how I do it. My whole point was that in C4K/5.7K the black bars ARE being baked in. And yes, I baked bars into this video just to be able to put some text ‘white on black’.
@@RedFrameTech I didn't know this. That's insane. I don't think they're baked in on regular LongGOP recording, I mean I've never seen that. There's no way they are baked in in LongGOP or All-I on any frame size. Don't know about how they are baked it or not in ProRes.
I guess it depends on how you define ‘baked in’. If you shoot in C4K (4096 x 2160) and put it on a 4096 x 2160 timeline (regardless of codec), then no, you won’t see black bars. But anyone watching it after export on a 16:9 screen or platform will have black bars. Point being: C4K/5.7K is wider than 16:9, but not taller. Meaning that you’ll either end up with black bars or having to crop left and right if you want it be 16:9. The latter completely defeating the point of shooting C4K in the first place. I’m really hoping Panasonic will add regular UHD to the ProRes options.
@@RedFrameTech Yes, putting the 17:9 footage on a 17:9 timeline then rendering and having it displayed on 16:9 screen will show the bars. I see what you meant. Cropping in on C4K to 16:9 would be awkward. Weird how there's no UHD 4K in ProRes, I prefer 16:9 source too!
Sebastian, thanks for you comprehensive video. Many great insights to be had here. I own a GH6 myself. I have been leaning on my Sony ecosystem of A7sIII and A7 IV more frequently of late. However, when I go to more stressful multicam cultural events plus 2nd system audio shoots, LUMIX to the fore with 2 GH5S and a GH6 handling the major shots )with Tentacle sync of course!). Sony gets added too, but the time code implementation is critical. Plus, who doesn’t like waveform monitors? Love how custom white balance is implemented also for multi cam use ability. Regarding your USB power conundrum, the way to go is with a v mount battery feeding a dummy battery. Also, get a D Tap splitter to power your Ninja 5 simultaneously. I can go for a 3 hour concert with zero worries about power, plus it has the added benefit of keeping excess battery heat away from the body. The USB port is available now for your SSD. I have done this many times and this capability has enamored me to the GH6 since I can send 4K 30P ALL-I to a 2 TB SSD for a 3 hour concert and have no worries. Plus, this workflow doesn’t eat up one of my Atomos Ninja’s, esp when the camera is unattended (park and bark).
Thanks! Yeah, time code is so nice to have! And waveforms; wouldn’t want without! A while ago I have tried the power solution that you also suggested. And that definitely works fine. The only problem I have with it, is you loose power redundancy. Good point about keeping excess battery heat away though. But, yeah, for a longer recordings on a tripod I do use that setup.
Thank you for such detailed presentation. My patience on TH-cam is short spanned but your voice is soothing that I get to watch it to the end :). DJI has just released the LiDAR Range Finder (RS) to DJI Transmission Cable Hub. This along with their LiDAR Range Finder and autofocus motor shall make the GH6 a powerful autofocus camera with any lens, including manual anamorphic. I believe Panasonic will need to have a firmware update to support this cable hub to avoid the need for the DJI Gimbal to calibrate lens.
You’re welcome 🙂 and thank you very much for your watching all the way through! I know it was very long.. 😅 I did hear about the DJI/Lumix announcement. I also heard (on Lumix Live) that there’s no firmware update required. I agree, it’s an exciting development 🙂
Nice review. Thanks for sharing. I use it mainly for wildlife video: Birds, Dragonflies and Butterflies. My main problem is the huge amount of bad documented, badly labelled features and settings with no idea how they affect each other or if they work in video or not or provide settings that don't have any benefits in any scenario. It is designed by programmers that want to add more features without properly testing them. The autofocus is not great, but understandable when you get 4k120 and 6k60 in return. The 4k120 and 6k60 are awesome. Finding a subject and put them in focus takes a lot of time, but once it is in focus it is very sharp. Tracking animals is very hard. One feature is hard to figure out and affect the results a lot. AF Custom Setting (video) - then [set]. One setting keeps subject in focus but jumps to the backgound whenever it likes (boy AF really wants you to enjoy grass in every detail). Other settings get you one sharp image, one blur image, one sharp image, one blur image. totally unusable. I need to find a proper situation somewhere where I can test every combo properly
Hoi Bart. I agree there are some quirky things in the menu. Btw, did you know that when you press the DISP button when on any menu item, it gives you more info? Might help you figure things out. I’ve also been struggling with the AF settings. Like you, I haven’t found the right settings for every situation yet. Especially when it comes to wildlife. I’m planning on doing more testing, but it’s very time consuming.. Maybe a G9ii with PDAF will be the solution for wildlife, although, it might lack a significant amount of video features.. Thanks for watching!
@@RedFrameTech Thanks for the tip. I think the computing power is not enough to deliver 6k60/4k130 with proper AF. It looks like a tradeoff. Sometimes when I use AnimalAF I see a square around the subject, but it is still not focusing at all. I knew already where it was. Focus on it! It looks designed for pointing out animals to the user and not that connected to the AF system. The 6k60 with 2x crop and not severe rolling shutter enables handheld video with a compact setup with the 100-400. You don't need to stretch your arm and become less stable. That is magic. Post stabilizing and cropping/reframing tot 4k just produces wonderful results. I will pick GH6 over the competition right now. I don't want to go back to tripod hassle. One downside I noticed with very small subjects is that handheld can cause critical focus issues and look less stable, because tiny changes in parallax angle and background position are more exaggerated. But compared to tripod hassle you are so much faster and flexible.
Great video, a good summary of the GH6. I got the GH6 last May, one of my best ever purchases, I've got my best wildlife footage with it. I too find the 4 channels of audio annoying while editing, so thanks for the tip on sorting it. The biggest annoyance is the 1 to 2 second delay between pressing the Shutter button and it starting to record. It's meant I've best a few sequences but it's better to be recording before the action starts anyway. On the upside, the 240fps HD looks way better than the 180fps HD on the GH5
Thanks! I’ve also got my best wildlife footage with it :) Yeah, the 1-2 second delay is a bit annoying, but it doesn’t bother me all that much as I leave the camera rolling (and end with tons of footage 😅)
You can go to 300fps and if you go to 1:1 crop you don't have line skipping. go for a sunny day, low iso, high shutterspeed. it is very nice for flying territorial dragonflies hunting from a stick in the water.
Great review so far, I'm about half way through. Thanks for pointing out the focus peaking over HDMI issue, I haven't seen others commenting on this. That coupled with HDMI lag makes manual focusing on the fly using an external monitor almost impossible to the point I just use the inbuilt screen now which is a shame. It is a great camera though, now back to your review!
Ok finished it, great review and awesome to hear your thoughts over a long time using the camera. I really like the GH6 having used it professionally as well as just for fun. It's a great companion in that you can just take it and a lens with you and capture amazing footage. I originally had plans to keep it rigged out like my BMPCC but have found the limitations of focus peaking over HDMI and the lag to be too much of a pain. Also I now find making a camera that has great stabilisation, compact lens choices and half decent battery life into a big heavy rig a bit counter intuitive, working against it's strengths. I now keep the BMPCC rigged up and GH6 as a compact swiss army knife. Look forward to more of you videos. Cheers
@@jonpaultucker Thanks! I can definitely see why you don’t rig it up. For me it depends on what I’m shooting. Sometimes I’ll fully rig it and sometimes it’s just the camera and a lens. I’d like to get a second one though and leave one rigged up. Thanks for watching!
Thank you for such an elegant delivery of your experiences and opinions on the GH6. Concerning the handle for the Mamba hat will allow you to us the Panasonic XLR adaptor I just got the SmallRig Top Handle for Sony XLR-K1M ... and for Panasonic DMW-XLR1 Adapter and it works very well
Yes I would love a timecode video - its a bit of a mystery to me but seems like an important tool. I shoot on GH5 and GH5s so hopefully it works similar to the gh6.
Great video about the GH6. I've also encountered issues with the timecode. There is a time shift in my multicam file. I'm now using my Tentacle sync again on an audio track. You do have to set the timecode to "off" in that case. It seems like a good idea to investigate the timecode on the GH6.
That's interesting. I haven't encountered that problem, but I'm going to investigate it anyway. Could you elaborate a bit more on how you have the camera set up and what exactly is happening?
@@RedFrameTech For me, it's easiest in Dutch. I work with a Canon XF605 and the GH6. Because I can't directly link the cameras (then I would need a different cable), I used the Tentacle Original to transfer the timecode to the GH6. (Set Tentacle to 'line' mode). I synchronized the footage in Tentacle Sync and imported it as multicam file in Final Cut Pro. Afterwards, it turned out that there were significant differences between the two camera files. Since the footage was of speakers, I was able to use FCP's internal tools to synchronize it eventually. Today, I conducted a test and connected the Tentacle device to the audio track of the GH6. That worked well with the Tentacle Sync software. Just remember to disable timecode on the GH6. Judging by the footage of the Grevelingen, I think we don't live far apart (Rijnmond regio). Perhaps we can try something together and address this with Panasonic. Groet, Albert Tieken
@@alberttieken Hoi Albert. Dank voor je uitleg. Nederlands mag ook hoor! Ik ga ook even wat tests doen. Ik heb alleen niet de originele tentacles, maar de mark 2’s. Ik woon idd in regio Rijnmond; Goeree-Overflakkee. Opgegroeid in Vlaardingen
im glad you done this i have been waiting for the gh6 for a long time now i got one over a month ago no regrets and im watching as much videos as i can
Sebastian, hi! Please tell me how to stop automatic white balance after pressing the record button. Yes, I know. that you can set the temperature myself, or check the balance using a gray card, but I like how the AWB works in this camera. Only if the situation changes during recording, for example, clouds cover the sun, then the white balance in the recording may change. Is there any setting to make my white balance bake after pressing the record button?
Hi Arthur. Unfortunately there's no way of locking white balance on recording. It would be nice if they could add that option in a firmware update. Thanks for watching!
I come from a Canon Apsc background so the jump to the GH6 has been a bit overwhelming, I used to have about 4 video options and now I have loads. This video is very useful , what codec to use is always a dilemma and I wasn't quite sure what the difference was with C4k and just 4k, also I am never sure what codec etc to use but I think RAW is for the clever ones who can grade and rec709 is sort of halfway there. I am off to the mountains soon and want to get some footage with the GH6 so will be trying out some of the info from here :) thank you
shoot v-log and drop a 709 LUT instead of shooting rec709. V-log with 709 LUT is just plain beautiful. It's amazing how good it looks actually... You would have to spend hours color grading S-Log to match V-log from the GH6 with a 709 LUT...
I should’ve added that when you lift the shadows of an underexposed shot that contains streaking, the issue is most noticeable. If it happens with a ‘correctly’ or overexposed shot it’s less noticeable and easier to correct in post
@@RedFrameTech why would a battery in the camera be more ' redundant' than the dummy - there's still only one power source. Using the SSD means you lose recording redundancy but that has nothing to do with the battery?
@@paulmailath612Let’s assume the setup is as follows: SSD connected to the USB C port, power via a dummy battery. If the cable to the dummy gets yanked out, the camera will be off instantly without proper shut down. Result: potentially missing an important bit of a recording and corrupted files. Let’s now assume the following setup: recording internally to the cfexpress card and powering the camera via usb c. Anything, including the usb c cable, can be yanked out and the camera will keep rolling because there’s still a battery in there. Hope that answers your question. Thanks so much for watching!
@@RedFrameTech makes sense, same as the gh5s but I can use a battery grip to have v-mount power with a battery in the camera as that failsafe from the dreaded MDT file - thx for the quick reply
Hi I am using a S5iix with the audio output connected to a Tentacle and a Sanken xlr mic, with a xvive phantom power supply (audio output connects channel 1 & 2 via TC-C15 Y MINI JACK+Seinheiser xlr cable KA600). The audio setting Mic Socket is set to Mic. It worked fine in the first few days but it's been 2 days all my shots came out with a super high frequency loud noise ruining all the sound and making it unusable. (I hadn't noticed that the sound display wasn't showing any sound). Today i checked all the sound settings, changed the sound monitoring channel to channel 2 only. (It used to be on channel 1&2). I noticed the mini jack seemed plugged in but was perhaps not pushed all the way in, so I hope I won't have any problems now. Have you heard of similar sound issues with xlr mics plugged to the mini jack audio output ? I was looking at your gh6 video in the case I have to switch to a GH6. I actually come from a micro 4/3 practice and now I feel like I should have sticked to the GH series. Especially that there is a timecode output. What do you think? Thanks a lot for your advice!
Hi! So, if I understand you correctly: you have the Tentacle + the Sanken mic with a y cable connected to the mic input of you S5iix? The in-line phantom power supply shouldn't cause an issue. But I'm a bit confused by what you said about merging channels 1 & 2? Where in the signal chain does that happen? And is your y cable one that splits stereo into left and right mono, meaning you'd have the timecode signal on one channel and the audio from the Sanken on the other channel? But regardless of the exact setup, if the jack wasn't plugged in properly that can cause some weird noises indeed. I find it to work so much nicer with the timecode port on the GH6. No hassle with an audio timecode signal + having the mic port free for an actual mic. Though, I have to say that I'm using my G9 with a tentacle sync plugged into the mic port and that also works a treat. So that should work the same for the S5iix. Thanks for watching!
@@RedFrameTech thanks for the reply! Sorry for the confusion. I change the sound monitoring channel settings in case the problem was coming from setting to channel 1+2 instead of just one channel (it allows to monitor sound via the headphone from my understanding, and I noticed the sound was better when set on just one channel since my Y cable does split stereo into left and right so no need to monitor more than 1 channel, since one side is connected to the tentacle, and gets no sound signal). So I had no sound problems today. So hopefully the problem was coming from the cable not properly plugged in or the setting..or both. Also I never went into the menu to set anything about the timecode. I did set the timecode in the zoom f6 external sound device. Hopefully all is well now.
GH6 vs G9ii, what is your preference? And GH6 vs S5iix? I think the GH6 could be a lighter option considering the lenses are lighter. So better for me, as a lone shooter of a documentary feature who needs to move quickly and follow my characters as they move around and go about their lives. I feel the full frame is less convenient and when shooting manually, I really need my characters to be in focus as they move and I find it easier to control focus with the micro 4/3rds.. I don't care that much about the blurry backgrounds even if yes I admit it looks nice when shooting idle people, portraits, objects etc..
@@schemlove Tough question. It depends on so many variables.. But if I had to pick one for your type of shooting, I'd pick G9II for it's autofocus (if you use AF lenses) and better DR Boost functionality. However, for longer shoots or multicam/timecode I'd pick the GH6 any time. And from what I've seen, I much prefer the image coming out the GH6. Personally I don't think you'll gain anything by going full frame for what you do. If anything, you'll be off worse, because of worse rolling shutter, stabilisation and bigger lenses.
28:13 - ProRes is not necessary for 98% of videography, especially on Panasonic cameras which allow for removing of most internal noise reduction in camera (unlike Sony where you can't get natural looking noise unless you shoot in ProRes). Panasonic cameras produce a minimally compressed noise pattern in the LongGOP codec which allows excellent spatial and temporal denoising in Neat Video to recover another half to full stop of detail in the shadows. The results can look better than results from ProRes users who don't denoise their footage. In addition, even after shooting an hour worth of video content in LongGOP at 4K, it takes just a few minutes to have Resolve build quarter size FHD proxies in H.264 or ProRes LQ (or DNxHR LQ on Windows) on a good system, so the idea that ProRes is faster to edit is only a thing if someone doesn't have 10 or 15 extra minutes. I copy footage to the computer, load it up in Resolve then get my proxies rendering while putting away my cameras and accessories.
That’s definitely a fine workflow. For me it depends on what I’m shooting, how much I need to grade it and how quick the turn around needs to be. It’s great to have all the options. And you’re right, ProRes need denoising.
@@kanohane It means "long group of pictures" and is a video encoding scheme which is more storage space efficient than All-I or RAW, but throws away or condenses information for a smaller file size. Requires more processing to decode on a computer or play back device than All-I which encodes each frame individually. In LongGOP decoding, other frames have to be referenced in order to build most frames because parts of frames are stored instead of entire frames. Every orher frame is fully stored and I believe are called I-frames. In All-I emcoding, all frames are I frames. LongGOP is a very typical / common method for video encoding. You just generate proxies in Resolve and you can bypass the slower decoding of LongGOP. H.264 half resolution proxies (technically another LongGOP encode) work fine. H.264 takes about half the effort for a CPU to decode, and half resolution is like 1/4th of that so playback is really fast while editing and such.
Congratulations on finishing before the sun went down 🤣🤣😂 I can definitely say that I have learned some new stuff, and I will definitely be learning more about the "Lock" button/switch. Since owning my GH5, I never enjoyed using the "Red" Record buttons and as such I ignored them. Today I was playing with my GH6 + Ninja V and noticed that when I moved my hand to press the "Shutter" button to start and record, then the camera would wobble. However I think that I will now use the "Red" record button next to the lens as it creates less wobbles when holding the camera + cage. Every day is a school day. I do have a thought/suggestion for you about the command dials. I have my dials set to: C1 = 25fps C2 = 50fps C3 = 100fps C4 Open Gate 25fps ProRes Rather than going hunting in a menu, I just flip the Command Dial to the frame rate I need instantly. Thanks for your advice on the Ninja V and correct exposure. I re-watched your episodes and a couple from Mr Undone before realizing that it was User Stupidity where I was going wrong.
Thanks Frank. This video honestly was a challenge in every way. Lots of things didn’t go to plan. I guess recording it before the sun went down went alright 😂 very much ‘golden hour’. I had my GH6 set up very similar to yours initially (it actually still is). Later I found it was actually quicker to change frame rates through the quick menu, because that way everything would stay the same. WB etc. Which, if you need to change frame rate quickly, but need to keep everything else the same, is the easiest way to accomplish that quickly. I need this when shooting a wedding for example (I shoot documentary style weddings). Happy to hear you figured out your Ninja debacle 😉
@@RedFrameTech Hmmm. Strange how your WB changes. How I set my camera up for C1 was to have everything the way I like it such as frame rate, ISO, aspect ratio, codec, ability to record the Ninja with the camera record button, custom WB in the Number 1 slot and what else was needed for me to be happy. This was all saved to the C1 setting. I then made the small change of only the frames per second and then saved everything to the C2 setting. I'm sure you can guess where I'm going with C3 and C4. I just swapped frame rates and aspect ratios but nothing else. For me, now, when ever I spin the Command Dial, then the WB stays at what ever I last set it at that day. And, if I later change the WB in C2 then the same WB is there when I spin the dial to C1, C3 or C4.
I stand corrected. This is obviously something I missed and is user error on my side 😄 I’m going to grab my GH6 first thing in the morning. Every day is a school day indeed..
@@frankinblackpool Well, I just checked on my GH6 and it doesn’t appear to be working like you said on mine. I tried setting WB to sunny and ISO to 400 with the camera in C1, then switched the dial to C2 and WB and ISO were back to how I had it set up in C2 when I saved it. Could you tell me how you have the camera set up so that that doesn’t happen? I can seem to find the setting that would do the trick.
On my G9, the rubber-textured material on the plastic door started peeling off because of the force I had to use to slide the door out. I had to use gorilla glue to put it back on so now it's fine! I'm sure I won't have that issue with the GH6 because it does not have a rubber material covering it!
I've a G9 but not yet a GH6 ... G9 it's a pity not be able to sync recording with Ninja V, I suppose the trigger to start recording is effective with GH6 ?. Thanks a lot fort your deep ,feed back on real use cases for GH6. It's the first time a see a video only based on experience and not influence. Another think, when recording in SD can you use prores or you need SSD or CF ? Thanks a lot for the post and take care with mosquito's.
Glad to hear my video was helpful! Yes, trigger record works with the GH6 and Ninja V. ProRes recording is limited to CFExpress or SSD. SD card speeds are too slow. But, to be honest, I prefer CFExpress anyway because it's much faster for file transfer.
OMG, YOU ARE THE ONLY OTHER PERSON THAT HAS THE SIRUI TRIPOD LIKE ME!! I absolutely LOVE this tripod! It's by far the best tripod you can get for the money!
Sebastian, thank you! I would very much appreciate a video where you explain the difference in various slow-motion options, for example, 4K50 with VFR and without. One kills your autofocus, the other one is too data-hungry. And both do not play back in slow-mo.
Great review, incredible camera i own 3, theyre amazing for long-form recording, can record 4h in 6k just off a 20kmah power bank or 17h with a 2tb ssd and dummy battery its insane
Another awesome video! I love the images the camera is able to produce but my main gripes are this: - No 4K ProRes - you have to choose between SSD or USB-power - No Prores or even All-I options for Anamorphic shooting (WHY???) - These MFT cameras are getting ridiculously heavy and big. I thought one of the main advantages of the MICRO Four Third system was its reduced size?! Well not on this camera!
@@RedFrameTech Wait, what do you guys mean? You can shoot 4k60 prores internally on the GH6 with updated firmware. It isn't showing as an option for you?
Thanks for this. I’m eyeing that g9ii but noticing how cheap the gh6 has gotten, I’m tempted to get it and wait until the g9ii has been out a little longer. Some folks are saying they think the pdaf has had a negative impact on image quality. Looking forward to the second wave of reviews once more people get their hands on them.
The G9II fine details and the video engine are the same than the GH6, as opposed to the S5II with the S5 ... However the colors science is not the same, the skin tones and overall colors are better on the GH6.
Thanks! I think it’ll do fine for real estate. Especially with the 9mm f1.7. If I was to shoot real estate, m43/APSC or full frame, I would bring lights anyway. Full control 😉
I am concerned about your statement that the native internal timecode is useless and drifts. Please elaborate with specifics. This is something that Panasonic needs to fix asap if true.
Not sure if they can fix that. I think it’s a hardware issue. The internal clock is just not accurate enough. What I mean by ‘starts drifting immediately’ is that it goes out of sync compared to the timecode on a tentacle sync.
@RedFrameTech , I'm guessing that the US models are slightly different in their designs. Both my GH5 and GH6 have similar battery mounting locations, and with the door, you have a nice little port for a dummy battery.
@@GregorysBrain so, if I understand correctly, your grip is also on the left side then? Because otherwise a battery wouldn’t fit in the left side of the body
This is super informative. I have been looking for a video that contrasts a GH6 to a G9 and this really opens up more thoughts in my head. I currently shoot on a GH4 (yeah it's super old). I'm thinking of adding another camera soon and using my GH4 as secondary camera but I'm not sure if I should go for a G9 or a GH6. The G9 seems to be very capable at an unbeatable price at the moment, but the GH6 is a beastly powerhouse which has more than enough packed into it. I shoot majorly video ads, short films, documentaries, weddings and sometimes photography in the same scenarios. Do you think I should go for a G9 or a GH6?
Glad to hear the video was helpful! To answer your question; The G9 is certainly very capable, but the GH6 is the better camera (for video). I think if you’re looking at buying one of the two as your A cam, I’d go for the GH6. All 10-bit, timecode, more dynamic range and a more pleasing image (to my eyes). And prices have dropped as well. On the other hand, the G9 is an absolute bargain and if budget is a real concern, it’s definitely capable enough. Hope that helps with your decision! Feel free to ask me any more questions you might have. Thanks for watching! 🙏
Personally, I use the Panasonic Leica 12-60 f2.8-4.0 as my all around photo and video lens. It’s sharp, nice color rendition and contrast, compatible with linear manual focus and a versatile focal range. Only downside is the variable aperture. But it all depends on what you want to generally shoot with it. And budget of course.
@@RedFrameTech Thanks for the advice. I recently scored a Gh6 on marketplace with a sigma 18-35 1.8 and a viltrox EF speed booster adapter for 1400 dollars with an extra battery. I'm in love with the camera already. The sigma works ok but the autofocus gets weird sometimes with the adapter on video. Razor sharp for stills. Gonna look around for a used 12-60. I also want to get the 50-200 or 100-300.
Hey my friend, first of all I like your calmness. Ive seen many of you mft videos and appreciate all the valuable information. Im really torn apart. Have been on Sony FF(A7C) but that wasent for me(unstable, no 4k60p) and I switched back to my loved G9. But the G9 has it own limitations. Especially the dynamic range is a problem for me indoors. The DFD pumping is also not my favorite(which brought me to sony initially). So im hoping to improve DR and AF, but stay with mFT. I have many lenses and love a couple of them. Especially the Pana 9mm and Olympus 45mm. In the past I never used any LOG profile. Im shooting so much familylife and dont want to spend hours in front of the PC. Do you think the DR with the GH6 is improved straight out of camera? Is the increased DR visible without grading? Im on the fence of buying a GH6 or a Sony ZV-E1 (4k 60p without crop). But I wish to stay on mFT and Panasonic. Whats your take on it? Switch for improved DR?
Thanks! 🙂 If you don’t use LOG, there isn’t much benefit to the improved DR with the GH6. But if you want to start shooting LOG it’s definitely noticeable. A full stops extra dr. And you don’t necessarily have to grade it. You just have to convert to rec709 and you’ll get a ‘normal’ image with that higher DR. The autofocus is an improvement over the G9, but it’s still dfd contrast detection AF. So, still some pulsing. All in all I think if autofocus is really important to you and you want to stay within the mft system, I would hold out a bit longer for the rumoured G9m2. Hope that helps!
Hi Red, what do you think of the electronic stabilization function? Couldn't they improve it? It would be enough to slightly increase the crop but make it more efficient, at the moment I do not find a substantial difference when it is enabled, it is a shame. Sony has a very effective electronic stabilization, although the one in the body is much worse than lumix
Honestly, I never use the E-stabilization with the GH6 or G9 for that matter. The IBIS is already so good and I don’t want the additional crop. I also think it’s better do it in post, if necessary. Sony might do a better job with electronic stabe in camera, but the GH6’s IBIS is stellar.
The 4K of the GH6 has rougher details rendering than the G9, no worth it in my opinion, it's like the image is upscaled from a lower resolution, more or less than the S5II compared to the S5 and S1. Even worse in motion when using 120fps. I much prefer to use the G9 in 4K60fps. 5,7K is much better (more or less the same level of details of the G9 in 4K) but the IBIS is worse than in 4K, also 5,7K adds a slight crop. The main strenght of the GH6 is not the IBIS, AF (in fact it is worse 90% of the time when using Open Gate or slow frame rates) or Pro-Res. No it's just the color science, the best I've seen from a Panasonic camera.
Je veux aussi la suppression des 4 pistes audio, l'intégration du Prores en 4k et un focus picking plus visible. L'intégration du DRB sur la 4k100 également.
Hey man, I really can’t decide between this and Sony fx30 , I do vfx videos and music videos and i don’t know which will be better , what do you suggest
Tough choice. I think if you need uncropped high frame rates, go GH6. The fx30 has a massive crop in 100/120p. If you rely on autofocus, go fx30. Personally I’d go GH6, but I’m biased cos I have one 😄 Price wise the GH6 is also very attractive. Another consideration would be; do you already own lenses for a system? If so, stick with that system.
No I am fairly new so no lenses but I have no idea how much that auto focus is going to ruin things , that’s the only deal breaker since there is always a lot of movements in videos but I love everything else abt the camera , do you suggest any other one that does both ?
@@sepehrtavakoli8053 If you want to have good autofocus, video features and good image quality, good low light performance, the Lumix S5ii(x) might be worth taking a look at. But again, if you want high quality, uncropped high frame rates, the GH6 is the better option, but manual focus is the way to go with that camera in most situations.
It does have more dynamic range, yes. It’s a different sensor than the one in the GH5. Plus the GH6 therefore can also make use of the higher dynamic range of the full V-log version.
Thanks Sebastiaan! A great summit and I agree on everything! Especially on the cons, like lake of UHD ProRes, 25, 50 & 100p would be awesome for my work flow! The lack of display info over HDMI makes my work painful! And wouldn't it be amazing with a search feature in the menu? 🤩 When it comes to a future dream camera like GH7 or EVA 2 (micro) 😅 It woul be amazing with 2-3 USB-C! Power, data & communication ( rec trigger, FF wheel ECT) and wouldn't that be love, dedicated assecorys!? And of course, dubble CFe slots!
The Panasonic DMW-XLR1 is expensive but it is worth it for many scenarios! But, if you are going to spend that kind of money, I would recommend the Tascam X8 instead! 32bit is EVERYTHING when audio capture is concerned and the price is not that much more! Something to think about!
Great tip! I use a Tentacle Track E 32bit when I have to lav someone. It’s awesome. One thing less to worry about. Does the tascam support timecode? I could Google that myself of course 😅
I think it can but only with the Bluetooth adapter that is sold separately of course but, I'm not sure. I will have to look at the Tentacle units! I really like your sound quality by the way! @@RedFrameTech
@@ChuckSeayII Thanks! I do pay a lot of attention to my audio quality. Looked up the X8. It’s only compatible with the AtomX Sync. I hope all those timecode device manufacturers are going to agree on some universal standard at some point..
I am curious why you would say that. Why do you think the G9 is not a good video cam? I quite like the footage out of it and it’s high quality. It’s a hybrid camera and a very good one. And what I should use is up to me, and whatever suits my needs. Might be different for you
That’s quite the statement. Have you used it? Why do you think it’s bad? If it was a bad camera, I wouldn’t be using it for professional work. Nobody ever said the footage looked bad..
Please ignore the misplaced chimes at 26:15 . They’re not supposed to be there.. 😅😂
I would like to take a moment to openly appreciate the warm and beautiful audio quality of your videos!
Thank you! I'm glad you can appreciate the audio quality 🙂
Fantastic video! I’m so glad you kept the little things like slapping away the mosquitos and other leg reaching scene! They were a hilarious!
Thanks man!
@@RedFrameTech Yea dude! Great work on this one! Also, regarding your ProRes RAW footage. You mind if get a chance to play with those a bit?
@@AlpacoFilms You’re the second person to ask me that and gave me the idea to set up a Google Drive folder or something to share some of my test footage. Unfortunately, I normally delete most of it after the video goes online, for storage reasons 😅. But I decided I’m going to keep future test footage and share it somehow. You can expect some more info on that soon, once I’ve made some new footage and set something up.
@@RedFrameTech completely get that! Sucker is TOO big to keep lol! I had to buy more storage just to keep my ProRes RAW tests for the GH5s, Olympus E-M1.3, and OM-1. Not worth the space to use for everyday but I do love comparing all the ProRes RAWS!
I love GH6. For a Year I ve been doing run and gun reality show for TH-cam and must say it is a beast. Very solid great stab great picture quality
This is the best and most extensive GH6 review+bonus tips and tricks ever in the internet!
Thank you so much!
Great Video, thank you for taking the time to do this, I like your delivery and honest 'down to earth' approach. I've been a GH user for a few years now and just invested in the GH6, of which your videos helped me make the decision. I've been tinkering and really happy with the results. I've been inspired to start doing TH-cam videos about the the camera and things that are interest me in general, so thank you again. My first one being the GH6 and the 'journey' of getting to grips with this marvelous little machine.
That’s so awesome to hear! Keep up the TH-cam videos. It’s a great way to get to know your camera. I honestly learn so much from making these videos. Thanks for watching! And subbed to your channel. Curious to see what you’re going to make with your GH6
Thank you 😊 that was unexpected and appreciated. I think, taking a cue from your videos, more structure and less rambling 😅 Onwards!
37:54 - When ISO is assigned to the Menu / Set wheel, you can simply turn it real quick to go to Auto ISO. No additional button press needed. Takes 1 second to do.
True, but that doesn’t make it much different from how it is as a default. If it works for you, that’s great! But I’d rather not give up a custom button/dial for a function that has a dedicated button on the camera already. It’s also more about the scrolling that I have a ‘problem’ with. I would like to be able to actually switch, not scroll, between AUTO and my last set ISO value.
I really appreciate your work in reviewing the GH6. I love mine for sure! Blessings
You’re welcome 🙂 And thanks for watching!
Thank you for this video. I went from the GH4 to the GH6 and loving the camera. I love your videos, your calm, laid back style is so nice compared to the very loud other video guys on YT, haha. Mazzel!
Thank you 🙂
@@RedFrameTech Do you think we might see an 6k firmware update?
@@obienator In what way? The camera can already do 6K (5.8K) open gate
@@RedFrameTech True. Full 6k might not be needed anyways.
@@obienator By the way, I just noticed you said ‘mazzel’ 😄 You have Dutch roots?
Excellent video as always mate!
Thanks mate!
I knew we were racing to make this video! Cant wait to watch through this man what and epic video.
Thanks dude! I can’t wait to see yours. Honestly, this video was a struggle to make. Nothing went to plan..
Fantastic video, really shows the effort you put in, thanks! I watched from front to back
Awesome! Thank you! 🙂
simply perfect camera. Great video. Thanks.
Thanks for watching! It is an awesome camera indeed 🙂
I love the fact that u/r still faithfull to your G9.
Of course I am 🙂 still an awesome camera
I'm purchasing a GH6 as I watch your video. Thank you for making this presentation. Your graphics are very sophisticated.
Thanks! Have fun with your new GH6! 🙂
Audio on the GH6 with the XLR1 is excellent. I've been using the XLR1 with the GH5s since 2018 and it can also be used with the S5II, etc., so Panasonic isn't reinventing the wheel with every camera upgrade and your investment carries over. As for a top handle, I use SmallRig's "Top Handle for Sony/Panasonic Cameras with Top Audio Adapter" ($69). It is easily height-adjustable to allow the XLR1 to be attached and still grab the camera, mount a monitor and other things as well. The SmallRig handle is very tough; I used it on a Komodo fully rigged out with swing-away mattebox and Cooke primes on a feature film recently including action handheld work and it was flawless. Thanks for this video on the GH6; we love ours.
Thanks for sharing! That’s helpful.
I am starting to use GH6 with a 12-35 f2.8 and this video is perfect for me… thanks and looking forward to watch other videos on the power solution etc…
Nice! Good to hear you’re enjoying my videos 🙂🙏
Awesome presentation. Thank you.
Thanks!
27:09 - You are not supposed to "bake in" the bars (as was also done in this video). Like you I prefer shooting in 16:9 but on a video with say a 2.35 final intended aspect ratio, I record in 16:9 or even 4:3, with a 2.35 frame guide turned on in camera. Then on the timeline I set my own arbitrary frame size such as 1920x818 or 3840x1636 for the 2.35 aspect ratio. The bars are then naturally generated by the video player and display device.
Thanks for your comments!
You’re correct about the workflow for a widescreen aspect ratio. That’s also how I do it. My whole point was that in C4K/5.7K the black bars ARE being baked in. And yes, I baked bars into this video just to be able to put some text ‘white on black’.
@@RedFrameTech I didn't know this. That's insane. I don't think they're baked in on regular LongGOP recording, I mean I've never seen that. There's no way they are baked in in LongGOP or All-I on any frame size. Don't know about how they are baked it or not in ProRes.
I guess it depends on how you define ‘baked in’. If you shoot in C4K (4096 x 2160) and put it on a 4096 x 2160 timeline (regardless of codec), then no, you won’t see black bars. But anyone watching it after export on a 16:9 screen or platform will have black bars. Point being: C4K/5.7K is wider than 16:9, but not taller. Meaning that you’ll either end up with black bars or having to crop left and right if you want it be 16:9. The latter completely defeating the point of shooting C4K in the first place. I’m really hoping Panasonic will add regular UHD to the ProRes options.
@@RedFrameTech Yes, putting the 17:9 footage on a 17:9 timeline then rendering and having it displayed on 16:9 screen will show the bars. I see what you meant. Cropping in on C4K to 16:9 would be awkward. Weird how there's no UHD 4K in ProRes, I prefer 16:9 source too!
Sebastian, thanks for you comprehensive video. Many great insights to be had here. I own a GH6 myself. I have been leaning on my Sony ecosystem of A7sIII and A7
IV more frequently of late. However, when I go to more stressful multicam cultural events plus
2nd system audio shoots, LUMIX to the fore with 2 GH5S and a GH6 handling the major shots )with Tentacle sync of course!). Sony gets added too, but the time code implementation is critical. Plus, who doesn’t like waveform monitors? Love how custom white balance is implemented also for multi cam use ability.
Regarding your USB power conundrum, the way to go is with a v mount battery feeding a dummy battery. Also, get a D Tap splitter to power your Ninja 5 simultaneously. I can go for a 3 hour concert with zero worries about power, plus it has the added benefit of keeping excess battery heat away from the body. The USB port is available now for your SSD. I have done this many times and this capability has enamored me to the GH6 since I can send 4K 30P ALL-I to a 2 TB SSD for a 3 hour concert and have no worries. Plus, this workflow doesn’t eat up one of my Atomos Ninja’s, esp when the camera is unattended (park and bark).
Thanks!
Yeah, time code is so nice to have! And waveforms; wouldn’t want without!
A while ago I have tried the power solution that you also suggested. And that definitely works fine. The only problem I have with it, is you loose power redundancy. Good point about keeping excess battery heat away though.
But, yeah, for a longer recordings on a tripod I do use that setup.
Thank you for such detailed presentation. My patience on TH-cam is short spanned but your voice is soothing that I get to watch it to the end :). DJI has just released the LiDAR Range Finder (RS) to DJI Transmission Cable Hub. This along with their LiDAR Range Finder and autofocus motor shall make the GH6 a powerful autofocus camera with any lens, including manual anamorphic. I believe Panasonic will need to have a firmware update to support this cable hub to avoid the need for the DJI Gimbal to calibrate lens.
You’re welcome 🙂 and thank you very much for your watching all the way through! I know it was very long.. 😅
I did hear about the DJI/Lumix announcement. I also heard (on Lumix Live) that there’s no firmware update required.
I agree, it’s an exciting development 🙂
does this mean you have to buy the new gimbal?
@@ThatGuyOverThereWeird No it should work without the Gimbal.
@@alexanderaseffa yeah no , youd need a device capable to set it up first , so best course is to rent the gimbal
hello! love your videos! How do you record your on screen with lumix gh6?
Thanks! I use an external recorder like the Atomos Ninja V to record the GH6’s screen
@@RedFrameTech ok thanks! I have it and I found the option HDMI out 💪🏻 all set now 👌
Awesome!
Nice review. Thanks for sharing. I use it mainly for wildlife video: Birds, Dragonflies and Butterflies. My main problem is the huge amount of bad documented, badly labelled features and settings with no idea how they affect each other or if they work in video or not or provide settings that don't have any benefits in any scenario. It is designed by programmers that want to add more features without properly testing them. The autofocus is not great, but understandable when you get 4k120 and 6k60 in return. The 4k120 and 6k60 are awesome. Finding a subject and put them in focus takes a lot of time, but once it is in focus it is very sharp. Tracking animals is very hard.
One feature is hard to figure out and affect the results a lot.
AF Custom Setting (video) - then [set]. One setting keeps subject in focus but jumps to the backgound whenever it likes (boy AF really wants you to enjoy grass in every detail). Other settings get you one sharp image, one blur image, one sharp image, one blur image. totally unusable.
I need to find a proper situation somewhere where I can test every combo properly
Hoi Bart. I agree there are some quirky things in the menu. Btw, did you know that when you press the DISP button when on any menu item, it gives you more info? Might help you figure things out.
I’ve also been struggling with the AF settings. Like you, I haven’t found the right settings for every situation yet. Especially when it comes to wildlife. I’m planning on doing more testing, but it’s very time consuming.. Maybe a G9ii with PDAF will be the solution for wildlife, although, it might lack a significant amount of video features..
Thanks for watching!
@@RedFrameTech Thanks for the tip. I think the computing power is not enough to deliver 6k60/4k130 with proper AF. It looks like a tradeoff. Sometimes when I use AnimalAF I see a square around the subject, but it is still not focusing at all. I knew already where it was. Focus on it! It looks designed for pointing out animals to the user and not that connected to the AF system.
The 6k60 with 2x crop and not severe rolling shutter enables handheld video with a compact setup with the 100-400. You don't need to stretch your arm and become less stable. That is magic. Post stabilizing and cropping/reframing tot 4k just produces wonderful results. I will pick GH6 over the competition right now. I don't want to go back to tripod hassle.
One downside I noticed with very small subjects is that handheld can cause critical focus issues and look less stable, because tiny changes in parallax angle and background position are more exaggerated. But compared to tripod hassle you are so much faster and flexible.
Great video, a good summary of the GH6.
I got the GH6 last May, one of my best ever purchases, I've got my best wildlife footage with it.
I too find the 4 channels of audio annoying while editing, so thanks for the tip on sorting it.
The biggest annoyance is the 1 to 2 second delay between pressing the Shutter button and it starting to record. It's meant I've best a few sequences but it's better to be recording before the action starts anyway.
On the upside, the 240fps HD looks way better than the 180fps HD on the GH5
Thanks! I’ve also got my best wildlife footage with it :)
Yeah, the 1-2 second delay is a bit annoying, but it doesn’t bother me all that much as I leave the camera rolling (and end with tons of footage 😅)
You can go to 300fps and if you go to 1:1 crop you don't have line skipping. go for a sunny day, low iso, high shutterspeed. it is very nice for flying territorial dragonflies hunting from a stick in the water.
Great review so far, I'm about half way through. Thanks for pointing out the focus peaking over HDMI issue, I haven't seen others commenting on this. That coupled with HDMI lag makes manual focusing on the fly using an external monitor almost impossible to the point I just use the inbuilt screen now which is a shame. It is a great camera though, now back to your review!
Thanks for watching, I know it’s a long video 😅
Yeah, it’s definitely a drawback. I use my Ninja V’s focus peaking instead
Ok finished it, great review and awesome to hear your thoughts over a long time using the camera. I really like the GH6 having used it professionally as well as just for fun. It's a great companion in that you can just take it and a lens with you and capture amazing footage. I originally had plans to keep it rigged out like my BMPCC but have found the limitations of focus peaking over HDMI and the lag to be too much of a pain. Also I now find making a camera that has great stabilisation, compact lens choices and half decent battery life into a big heavy rig a bit counter intuitive, working against it's strengths. I now keep the BMPCC rigged up and GH6 as a compact swiss army knife. Look forward to more of you videos. Cheers
@@jonpaultucker Thanks!
I can definitely see why you don’t rig it up. For me it depends on what I’m shooting. Sometimes I’ll fully rig it and sometimes it’s just the camera and a lens. I’d like to get a second one though and leave one rigged up.
Thanks for watching!
@@RedFrameTech Yeah I think having two so one is rigged up all the time would be the best solution!
Thank you for such an elegant delivery of your experiences and opinions on the GH6. Concerning the handle for the Mamba hat will allow you to us the Panasonic XLR adaptor I just got the SmallRig Top Handle for Sony XLR-K1M ... and for Panasonic DMW-XLR1 Adapter and it works very well
Thanks for sharing that! I’ll look in to that handle 🙂
Thanks for watching!
Yes I would love a timecode video - its a bit of a mystery to me but seems like an important tool. I shoot on GH5 and GH5s so hopefully it works similar to the gh6.
just in time to be watched before Lumix Live 😄cheers
Timing is everything 😄
Great video about the GH6. I've also encountered issues with the timecode. There is a time shift in my multicam file. I'm now using my Tentacle sync again on an audio track. You do have to set the timecode to "off" in that case. It seems like a good idea to investigate the timecode on the GH6.
That's interesting. I haven't encountered that problem, but I'm going to investigate it anyway. Could you elaborate a bit more on how you have the camera set up and what exactly is happening?
@@RedFrameTech For me, it's easiest in Dutch. I work with a Canon XF605 and the GH6. Because I can't directly link the cameras (then I would need a different cable), I used the Tentacle Original to transfer the timecode to the GH6. (Set Tentacle to 'line' mode). I synchronized the footage in Tentacle Sync and imported it as multicam file in Final Cut Pro. Afterwards, it turned out that there were significant differences between the two camera files. Since the footage was of speakers, I was able to use FCP's internal tools to synchronize it eventually.
Today, I conducted a test and connected the Tentacle device to the audio track of the GH6. That worked well with the Tentacle Sync software. Just remember to disable timecode on the GH6. Judging by the footage of the Grevelingen, I think we don't live far apart (Rijnmond regio). Perhaps we can try something together and address this with Panasonic.
Groet, Albert Tieken
@@alberttieken Hoi Albert. Dank voor je uitleg. Nederlands mag ook hoor!
Ik ga ook even wat tests doen. Ik heb alleen niet de originele tentacles, maar de mark 2’s.
Ik woon idd in regio Rijnmond; Goeree-Overflakkee. Opgegroeid in Vlaardingen
Ook toevallig, ik woon in Vlaardingen. @@RedFrameTech
im glad you done this i have been waiting for the gh6 for a long time now i got one over a month ago no regrets and im watching as much videos as i can
Awesome! It’s a great camera 🙂 Thanks for watching!
i got this camera as soon as it dropped to $1300, it really is the best camera in that price range. thank you for the video!
Yeah, great deal! I bought it when it first came out, for full price 😅
Thanks for watching!
Sebastian, hi! Please tell me how to stop automatic white balance after pressing the record button. Yes, I know. that you can set the temperature myself, or check the balance using a gray card, but I like how the AWB works in this camera. Only if the situation changes during recording, for example, clouds cover the sun, then the white balance in the recording may change. Is there any setting to make my white balance bake after pressing the record button?
Hi Arthur. Unfortunately there's no way of locking white balance on recording. It would be nice if they could add that option in a firmware update. Thanks for watching!
@@RedFrameTech Thank you!
I come from a Canon Apsc background so the jump to the GH6 has been a bit overwhelming, I used to have about 4 video options and now I have loads. This video is very useful , what codec to use is always a dilemma and I wasn't quite sure what the difference was with C4k and just 4k, also I am never sure what codec etc to use but I think RAW is for the clever ones who can grade and rec709 is sort of halfway there. I am off to the mountains soon and want to get some footage with the GH6 so will be trying out some of the info from here :) thank you
Great to hear! Have fun on your trip 🙂
shoot v-log and drop a 709 LUT instead of shooting rec709. V-log with 709 LUT is just plain beautiful. It's amazing how good it looks actually... You would have to spend hours color grading S-Log to match V-log from the GH6 with a 709 LUT...
25:10 interesting. Normally over exposure usually causes streaking not under exposure. If you are under exposed it’s just some bloke running around.
I should’ve added that when you lift the shadows of an underexposed shot that contains streaking, the issue is most noticeable. If it happens with a ‘correctly’ or overexposed shot it’s less noticeable and easier to correct in post
Can you not use a v-mount battery adapter with the panasonic dummy battery to power the GH-6 and still use the USB-c to record via an external SSD?
Yes, you can. But you loose redundancy. I prefer keeping a battery in the camera.
@@RedFrameTech why would a battery in the camera be more ' redundant' than the dummy - there's still only one power source. Using the SSD means you lose recording redundancy but that has nothing to do with the battery?
@@paulmailath612Let’s assume the setup is as follows: SSD connected to the USB C port, power via a dummy battery.
If the cable to the dummy gets yanked out, the camera will be off instantly without proper shut down. Result: potentially missing an important bit of a recording and corrupted files.
Let’s now assume the following setup: recording internally to the cfexpress card and powering the camera via usb c.
Anything, including the usb c cable, can be yanked out and the camera will keep rolling because there’s still a battery in there.
Hope that answers your question. Thanks so much for watching!
@@RedFrameTech makes sense, same as the gh5s but I can use a battery grip to have v-mount power with a battery in the camera as that failsafe from the dreaded MDT file - thx for the quick reply
Hi I am using a S5iix with the audio output connected to a Tentacle and a Sanken xlr mic, with a xvive phantom power supply (audio output connects channel 1 & 2 via TC-C15 Y MINI JACK+Seinheiser xlr cable KA600). The audio setting Mic Socket is set to Mic. It worked fine in the first few days but it's been 2 days all my shots came out with a super high frequency loud noise ruining all the sound and making it unusable. (I hadn't noticed that the sound display wasn't showing any sound). Today i checked all the sound settings, changed the sound monitoring channel to channel 2 only. (It used to be on channel 1&2). I noticed the mini jack seemed plugged in but was perhaps not pushed all the way in, so I hope I won't have any problems now. Have you heard of similar sound issues with xlr mics plugged to the mini jack audio output ? I was looking at your gh6 video in the case I have to switch to a GH6. I actually come from a micro 4/3 practice and now I feel like I should have sticked to the GH series. Especially that there is a timecode output. What do you think? Thanks a lot for your advice!
Hi!
So, if I understand you correctly: you have the Tentacle + the Sanken mic with a y cable connected to the mic input of you S5iix? The in-line phantom power supply shouldn't cause an issue.
But I'm a bit confused by what you said about merging channels 1 & 2? Where in the signal chain does that happen? And is your y cable one that splits stereo into left and right mono, meaning you'd have the timecode signal on one channel and the audio from the Sanken on the other channel?
But regardless of the exact setup, if the jack wasn't plugged in properly that can cause some weird noises indeed.
I find it to work so much nicer with the timecode port on the GH6. No hassle with an audio timecode signal + having the mic port free for an actual mic. Though, I have to say that I'm using my G9 with a tentacle sync plugged into the mic port and that also works a treat. So that should work the same for the S5iix.
Thanks for watching!
@@RedFrameTech thanks for the reply! Sorry for the confusion. I change the sound monitoring channel settings in case the problem was coming from setting to channel 1+2 instead of just one channel (it allows to monitor sound via the headphone from my understanding, and I noticed the sound was better when set on just one channel since my Y cable does split stereo into left and right so no need to monitor more than 1 channel, since one side is connected to the tentacle, and gets no sound signal). So I had no sound problems today. So hopefully the problem was coming from the cable not properly plugged in or the setting..or both. Also I never went into the menu to set anything about the timecode. I did set the timecode in the zoom f6 external sound device. Hopefully all is well now.
GH6 vs G9ii, what is your preference? And GH6 vs S5iix? I think the GH6 could be a lighter option considering the lenses are lighter. So better for me, as a lone shooter of a documentary feature who needs to move quickly and follow my characters as they move around and go about their lives. I feel the full frame is less convenient and when shooting manually, I really need my characters to be in focus as they move and I find it easier to control focus with the micro 4/3rds.. I don't care that much about the blurry backgrounds even if yes I admit it looks nice when shooting idle people, portraits, objects etc..
@@schemlove Glad to hear it seems to work properly now!
@@schemlove Tough question. It depends on so many variables.. But if I had to pick one for your type of shooting, I'd pick G9II for it's autofocus (if you use AF lenses) and better DR Boost functionality. However, for longer shoots or multicam/timecode I'd pick the GH6 any time. And from what I've seen, I much prefer the image coming out the GH6. Personally I don't think you'll gain anything by going full frame for what you do. If anything, you'll be off worse, because of worse rolling shutter, stabilisation and bigger lenses.
28:13 - ProRes is not necessary for 98% of videography, especially on Panasonic cameras which allow for removing of most internal noise reduction in camera (unlike Sony where you can't get natural looking noise unless you shoot in ProRes). Panasonic cameras produce a minimally compressed noise pattern in the LongGOP codec which allows excellent spatial and temporal denoising in Neat Video to recover another half to full stop of detail in the shadows. The results can look better than results from ProRes users who don't denoise their footage. In addition, even after shooting an hour worth of video content in LongGOP at 4K, it takes just a few minutes to have Resolve build quarter size FHD proxies in H.264 or ProRes LQ (or DNxHR LQ on Windows) on a good system, so the idea that ProRes is faster to edit is only a thing if someone doesn't have 10 or 15 extra minutes. I copy footage to the computer, load it up in Resolve then get my proxies rendering while putting away my cameras and accessories.
That’s definitely a fine workflow. For me it depends on what I’m shooting, how much I need to grade it and how quick the turn around needs to be. It’s great to have all the options. And you’re right, ProRes need denoising.
What is LongGOP?
@@kanohane It means "long group of pictures" and is a video encoding scheme which is more storage space efficient than All-I or RAW, but throws away or condenses information for a smaller file size. Requires more processing to decode on a computer or play back device than All-I which encodes each frame individually. In LongGOP decoding, other frames have to be referenced in order to build most frames because parts of frames are stored instead of entire frames. Every orher frame is fully stored and I believe are called I-frames. In All-I emcoding, all frames are I frames. LongGOP is a very typical / common method for video encoding. You just generate proxies in Resolve and you can bypass the slower decoding of LongGOP. H.264 half resolution proxies (technically another LongGOP encode) work fine. H.264 takes about half the effort for a CPU to decode, and half resolution is like 1/4th of that so playback is really fast while editing and such.
Congratulations on finishing before the sun went down 🤣🤣😂
I can definitely say that I have learned some new stuff, and I will definitely be learning more about the "Lock" button/switch. Since owning my GH5, I never enjoyed using the "Red" Record buttons and as such I ignored them. Today I was playing with my GH6 + Ninja V and noticed that when I moved my hand to press the "Shutter" button to start and record, then the camera would wobble. However I think that I will now use the "Red" record button next to the lens as it creates less wobbles when holding the camera + cage.
Every day is a school day.
I do have a thought/suggestion for you about the command dials. I have my dials set to:
C1 = 25fps
C2 = 50fps
C3 = 100fps
C4 Open Gate 25fps ProRes
Rather than going hunting in a menu, I just flip the Command Dial to the frame rate I need instantly.
Thanks for your advice on the Ninja V and correct exposure. I re-watched your episodes and a couple from Mr Undone before realizing that it was User Stupidity where I was going wrong.
Thanks Frank. This video honestly was a challenge in every way. Lots of things didn’t go to plan. I guess recording it before the sun went down went alright 😂 very much ‘golden hour’.
I had my GH6 set up very similar to yours initially (it actually still is). Later I found it was actually quicker to change frame rates through the quick menu, because that way everything would stay the same. WB etc. Which, if you need to change frame rate quickly, but need to keep everything else the same, is the easiest way to accomplish that quickly. I need this when shooting a wedding for example (I shoot documentary style weddings).
Happy to hear you figured out your Ninja debacle 😉
@@RedFrameTech Hmmm. Strange how your WB changes. How I set my camera up for C1 was to have everything the way I like it such as frame rate, ISO, aspect ratio, codec, ability to record the Ninja with the camera record button, custom WB in the Number 1 slot and what else was needed for me to be happy. This was all saved to the C1 setting. I then made the small change of only the frames per second and then saved everything to the C2 setting. I'm sure you can guess where I'm going with C3 and C4. I just swapped frame rates and aspect ratios but nothing else.
For me, now, when ever I spin the Command Dial, then the WB stays at what ever I last set it at that day. And, if I later change the WB in C2 then the same WB is there when I spin the dial to C1, C3 or C4.
I stand corrected. This is obviously something I missed and is user error on my side 😄 I’m going to grab my GH6 first thing in the morning.
Every day is a school day indeed..
@@RedFrameTech I could also be hilariously mistaken. But I hope not.
Back to watching Star Trek Discovery.😃
@@frankinblackpool Well, I just checked on my GH6 and it doesn’t appear to be working like you said on mine. I tried setting WB to sunny and ISO to 400 with the camera in C1, then switched the dial to C2 and WB and ISO were back to how I had it set up in C2 when I saved it.
Could you tell me how you have the camera set up so that that doesn’t happen? I can seem to find the setting that would do the trick.
On my G9, the rubber-textured material on the plastic door started peeling off because of the force I had to use to slide the door out. I had to use gorilla glue to put it back on so now it's fine! I'm sure I won't have that issue with the GH6 because it does not have a rubber material covering it!
That problem doesn’t exist on the GH6 indeed! Great point 😄
Can you tell me which lens is attached to the camera at the begining of the video ? Thanks.
Sure! That’s the Panasonic Leica 100-400
Thank you.@@RedFrameTech
I've a G9 but not yet a GH6 ... G9 it's a pity not be able to sync recording with Ninja V, I suppose the trigger to start recording is effective with GH6 ?. Thanks a lot fort your deep ,feed back on real use cases for GH6. It's the first time a see a video only based on experience and not influence. Another think, when recording in SD can you use prores or you need SSD or CF ? Thanks a lot for the post and take care with mosquito's.
Glad to hear my video was helpful!
Yes, trigger record works with the GH6 and Ninja V.
ProRes recording is limited to CFExpress or SSD. SD card speeds are too slow. But, to be honest, I prefer CFExpress anyway because it's much faster for file transfer.
Great video man
Thank you and thanks for watching!
I come from a phone a camera and I'm just amazed by the all the things this camera can do, it just blows my mind,,,
Yeah, it’s a big leap from a phone. Welcome to the club 🙂
OMG, YOU ARE THE ONLY OTHER PERSON THAT HAS THE SIRUI TRIPOD LIKE ME!!
I absolutely LOVE this tripod! It's by far the best tripod you can get for the money!
😄It is a nice tripod indeed!
Sebastian, thank you! I would very much appreciate a video where you explain the difference in various slow-motion options, for example, 4K50 with VFR and without. One kills your autofocus, the other one is too data-hungry. And both do not play back in slow-mo.
I’ve been meaning to look into that more. Haven’t had the time yet, but it’s definitely on the list of videos to make. Thanks for watching!
Great review, incredible camera i own 3, theyre amazing for long-form recording, can record 4h in 6k just off a 20kmah power bank or 17h with a 2tb ssd and dummy battery its insane
Thanks!
It is a great camera indeed! Especially for long form
Another awesome video! I love the images the camera is able to produce but my main gripes are this:
- No 4K ProRes
- you have to choose between SSD or USB-power
- No Prores or even All-I options for Anamorphic shooting (WHY???)
- These MFT cameras are getting ridiculously heavy and big. I thought one of the main advantages of the MICRO Four Third system was its reduced size?! Well not on this camera!
Thanks!
Yeah, no 4k prores is odd..
I hadn’t thought of the lack of all-i in anamorphic. Good point!
Thanks for watching! 🙏
@@RedFrameTech Wait, what do you guys mean? You can shoot 4k60 prores internally on the GH6 with updated firmware. It isn't showing as an option for you?
No 4K UHD in ProRes, only C4K
funnily enough but your video looks extremely good even at 1080p. whereas other video often look overcooked with this youtube compression
Thanks 🙂 I have spent a lot of time figuring out how to make my videos look good despite the compression 😅
Thanks for this. I’m eyeing that g9ii but noticing how cheap the gh6 has gotten, I’m tempted to get it and wait until the g9ii has been out a little longer. Some folks are saying they think the pdaf has had a negative impact on image quality. Looking forward to the second wave of reviews once more people get their hands on them.
The GH6 deals are great right now for sure!
I’m hoping to get my hands on a G9II soon so I can do some IQ tests.
Thanks for watching!
The G9II fine details and the video engine are the same than the GH6, as opposed to the S5II with the S5 ...
However the colors science is not the same, the skin tones and overall colors are better on the GH6.
Where you found autumn looks location in summer time dude?)
It had been really really dry around here when I recorded this video, so yeah, I guess it does look a bit autumn-like 😄
Great review! Would you recomend the GH6 for real estate? I am a bit scared to get this because of a low light perfomance. Thanks!
Thanks! I think it’ll do fine for real estate. Especially with the 9mm f1.7.
If I was to shoot real estate, m43/APSC or full frame, I would bring lights anyway. Full control 😉
@@RedFrameTech cheers!
I am concerned about your statement that the native internal timecode is useless and drifts. Please elaborate with specifics. This is something that Panasonic needs to fix asap if true.
Not sure if they can fix that. I think it’s a hardware issue. The internal clock is just not accurate enough.
What I mean by ‘starts drifting immediately’ is that it goes out of sync compared to the timecode on a tentacle sync.
That's odd. My GH6's battery is mounted from the bottom left. Do they make different versions for different regions?
That’s odd indeed. I’ve never seen a GH series camera with the battery on the bottom left tbh
@RedFrameTech , I'm guessing that the US models are slightly different in their designs. Both my GH5 and GH6 have similar battery mounting locations, and with the door, you have a nice little port for a dummy battery.
@@GregorysBrain so, if I understand correctly, your grip is also on the left side then? Because otherwise a battery wouldn’t fit in the left side of the body
@RedFrameTech , you're right, it's on the right side of the camera, not the left.
This is super informative. I have been looking for a video that contrasts a GH6 to a G9 and this really opens up more thoughts in my head.
I currently shoot on a GH4 (yeah it's super old). I'm thinking of adding another camera soon and using my GH4 as secondary camera but I'm not sure if I should go for a G9 or a GH6.
The G9 seems to be very capable at an unbeatable price at the moment, but the GH6 is a beastly powerhouse which has more than enough packed into it.
I shoot majorly video ads, short films, documentaries, weddings and sometimes photography in the same scenarios. Do you think I should go for a G9 or a GH6?
Glad to hear the video was helpful!
To answer your question;
The G9 is certainly very capable, but the GH6 is the better camera (for video).
I think if you’re looking at buying one of the two as your A cam, I’d go for the GH6. All 10-bit, timecode, more dynamic range and a more pleasing image (to my eyes). And prices have dropped as well.
On the other hand, the G9 is an absolute bargain and if budget is a real concern, it’s definitely capable enough.
Hope that helps with your decision! Feel free to ask me any more questions you might have.
Thanks for watching! 🙏
Thank you so much. This really helps!
What would you recommend for an all around lens photo and video for this camera?
Personally, I use the Panasonic Leica 12-60 f2.8-4.0 as my all around photo and video lens. It’s sharp, nice color rendition and contrast, compatible with linear manual focus and a versatile focal range. Only downside is the variable aperture.
But it all depends on what you want to generally shoot with it. And budget of course.
@@RedFrameTech Thanks for the advice. I recently scored a Gh6 on marketplace with a sigma 18-35 1.8 and a viltrox EF speed booster adapter for 1400 dollars with an extra battery. I'm in love with the camera already. The sigma works ok but the autofocus gets weird sometimes with the adapter on video. Razor sharp for stills. Gonna look around for a used 12-60. I also want to get the 50-200 or 100-300.
@@patrickdolan. Sounds like a really good deal for a great setup!
I’d recommend the PL 100-400 over the 100-300. Much sharper.
Hey my friend, first of all I like your calmness. Ive seen many of you mft videos and appreciate all the valuable information.
Im really torn apart. Have been on Sony FF(A7C) but that wasent for me(unstable, no 4k60p) and I switched back to my loved G9. But the G9 has it own limitations. Especially the dynamic range is a problem for me indoors. The DFD pumping is also not my favorite(which brought me to sony initially).
So im hoping to improve DR and AF, but stay with mFT. I have many lenses and love a couple of them. Especially the Pana 9mm and Olympus 45mm. In the past I never used any LOG profile. Im shooting so much familylife and dont want to spend hours in front of the PC.
Do you think the DR with the GH6 is improved straight out of camera? Is the increased DR visible without grading? Im on the fence of buying a GH6 or a Sony ZV-E1 (4k 60p without crop). But I wish to stay on mFT and Panasonic.
Whats your take on it? Switch for improved DR?
Thanks! 🙂
If you don’t use LOG, there isn’t much benefit to the improved DR with the GH6. But if you want to start shooting LOG it’s definitely noticeable. A full stops extra dr. And you don’t necessarily have to grade it. You just have to convert to rec709 and you’ll get a ‘normal’ image with that higher DR.
The autofocus is an improvement over the G9, but it’s still dfd contrast detection AF. So, still some pulsing.
All in all I think if autofocus is really important to you and you want to stay within the mft system, I would hold out a bit longer for the rumoured G9m2.
Hope that helps!
@@RedFrameTech thanks, Pal.
I liked the final part of improvements
I like the open gate 4:3. Might be only thing I wish my Sony camera has.
Open gate is great. I don’t really understand why Sony won’t implement that. Same goes for shutter angle. Otherwise they make great cameras as well
Hi Red, what do you think of the electronic stabilization function? Couldn't they improve it? It would be enough to slightly increase the crop but make it more efficient, at the moment I do not find a substantial difference when it is enabled, it is a shame. Sony has a very effective electronic stabilization, although the one in the body is much worse than lumix
Honestly, I never use the E-stabilization with the GH6 or G9 for that matter. The IBIS is already so good and I don’t want the additional crop. I also think it’s better do it in post, if necessary. Sony might do a better job with electronic stabe in camera, but the GH6’s IBIS is stellar.
still stuck between these two, 4k 120fps worth it over 4k 60fps? such a different price but otherwise specc-differences not a problem for me
Between GH6 and G9? If you don’t need 120p 10bit, the G9 is great value for money. But the GH6 is the better video camera
The 4K of the GH6 has rougher details rendering than the G9, no worth it in my opinion, it's like the image is upscaled from a lower resolution, more or less than the S5II compared to the S5 and S1. Even worse in motion when using 120fps. I much prefer to use the G9 in 4K60fps. 5,7K is much better (more or less the same level of details of the G9 in 4K) but the IBIS is worse than in 4K, also 5,7K adds a slight crop.
The main strenght of the GH6 is not the IBIS, AF (in fact it is worse 90% of the time when using Open Gate or slow frame rates) or Pro-Res. No it's just the color science, the best I've seen from a Panasonic camera.
Je veux aussi la suppression des 4 pistes audio, l'intégration du Prores en 4k et un focus picking plus visible. L'intégration du DRB sur la 4k100 également.
That would be great 👍
Hey man, I really can’t decide between this and Sony fx30 , I do vfx videos and music videos and i don’t know which will be better , what do you suggest
Tough choice. I think if you need uncropped high frame rates, go GH6. The fx30 has a massive crop in 100/120p.
If you rely on autofocus, go fx30.
Personally I’d go GH6, but I’m biased cos I have one 😄 Price wise the GH6 is also very attractive.
Another consideration would be; do you already own lenses for a system? If so, stick with that system.
No I am fairly new so no lenses but I have no idea how much that auto focus is going to ruin things , that’s the only deal breaker since there is always a lot of movements in videos but I love everything else abt the camera , do you suggest any other one that does both ?
@@sepehrtavakoli8053 If you want to have good autofocus, video features and good image quality, good low light performance, the Lumix S5ii(x) might be worth taking a look at. But again, if you want high quality, uncropped high frame rates, the GH6 is the better option, but manual focus is the way to go with that camera in most situations.
DR Boost overall is confusing. I don’t have a GH6 but I don’t think I would ever use DR Boost.
It is.. Panasonic did a much better job at it with the G9II
Does the gh6 really has 2-3 stops more dynamic range in video? This must be the same with the gh5 as it has the same sensor and its a huge difference.
Gh6 uses a diff sensor than gh5's
It does have more dynamic range, yes. It’s a different sensor than the one in the GH5. Plus the GH6 therefore can also make use of the higher dynamic range of the full V-log version.
Ah, you meant GH5 the same as the G9, right? Yes 🙂
@@RedFrameTech yeah now that i readt it , thats what he meant
Thanks Sebastiaan! A great summit and I agree on everything! Especially on the cons, like lake of UHD ProRes, 25, 50 & 100p would be awesome for my work flow! The lack of display info over HDMI makes my work painful! And wouldn't it be amazing with a search feature in the menu? 🤩 When it comes to a future dream camera like GH7 or EVA 2 (micro) 😅 It woul be amazing with 2-3 USB-C! Power, data & communication ( rec trigger, FF wheel ECT) and wouldn't that be love, dedicated assecorys!? And of course, dubble CFe slots!
Thanks Martin! I, in turn, agree on what you say 🙂 that would be awesome!
The Panasonic DMW-XLR1 is expensive but it is worth it for many scenarios! But, if you are going to spend that kind of money, I would recommend the Tascam X8 instead! 32bit is EVERYTHING when audio capture is concerned and the price is not that much more! Something to think about!
Great tip! I use a Tentacle Track E 32bit when I have to lav someone. It’s awesome. One thing less to worry about. Does the tascam support timecode? I could Google that myself of course 😅
I think it can but only with the Bluetooth adapter that is sold separately of course but, I'm not sure. I will have to look at the Tentacle units! I really like your sound quality by the way! @@RedFrameTech
@@ChuckSeayII Thanks! I do pay a lot of attention to my audio quality.
Looked up the X8. It’s only compatible with the AtomX Sync. I hope all those timecode device manufacturers are going to agree on some universal standard at some point..
Redhot🎉Thank You
Thanks! Redhot 😂👍
Dummy battery is the best.
These days cameras don’t matter anymore.
Yeah, they all produce good quality video for sure
The G9 is NOT a good Video Camera. It's a stills Camera. Should have used the Gh5 mark II or the Panasonic x1500 camcorder.
I am curious why you would say that. Why do you think the G9 is not a good video cam? I quite like the footage out of it and it’s high quality. It’s a hybrid camera and a very good one.
And what I should use is up to me, and whatever suits my needs. Might be different for you
GH6 is a bad camera. Okay for 2015. Too little too late now
That’s quite the statement. Have you used it? Why do you think it’s bad?
If it was a bad camera, I wouldn’t be using it for professional work. Nobody ever said the footage looked bad..