As someone who switched to Sony after the GH5, I have to say that these tests with DR Boost are quite impressive. Other content creators who demonstrated DR Boost were less complimentary about the feature. Maybe they didn't understand its use. Either way, this really brings MFT sensors, and the GH6, back into play for filmmaking. Recently, I heard rumors of Panasonic planning on a Phase Detect AF system in a future camera. If they succeed at that, I think their market share could see a substantial DR Boost. (wink). I've always liked the colors that Panasonic cameras produce. So, let's see what Panasonic does next. Excellent demonstration.
Thank you 🙏 The GH6 is a big improvement leap in MFT and I'm curious what future plans they have for the system. I also am a big fan of Panasonic colors and is one of the reasons I'm staying with the system. I've also heard the rumors about phase detect AF. I think you're right. It'll give Panasonic's market share a big DR boost 🙂 What made you switch to Sony? Low light performance? Or something else?
@@RedFrameTech Being an indie/low budget filmmaker, I really needed reliable autofocus. I can't afford a focus puller. Sony has the best AF at this time. Really reliable AF. Currently, I am shooting with the Sony FX30, and excellent camera. As many people have demonstrated, while full frame sensors do provide more dynamic range, smaller sensors - even the Super 35 sensor like the FX30 has - can still produce excellent results. But, what really speeds up production - IMHO - is good color science. And Panasonic, in my view, has the best colors straight out of camera. When you get great colors straight out of camera, even shooting in Log, it makes color grading in post a LOT easier. If Panasonic can bring Phase Detect AF to their cameras, I might just switch back. *Imagine a G9 mk2 with PDAF*. MFT cameras are a lot cheaper and lighter, and have much lighter lenses. And for run-n-gun, low budget filmmaking, that goes a long way.
I can definitely see why you switched. I absolutely agree with you on colors. In fact, that’s why I haven’t considered Sony, eventhough the AF is very enticing. Also, usability of the Lumix cameras is one of the strong points. I do think the FX30 is a great camera 🙂 but your G9 mII with PDAF suggestion would be close to a perfect camera
Another really good and helpful episode. Thank you! My take-away from this and other commenters, is that BOOST is hard to define exactly, but things generally look better with it on.
Great video, thanks for looking into this. I've found DR boost a great tool so far and have used it on almost every shoot. I even shot with my GH6 and used it alongside a Canon C70 and this camera 100% holds up well next to the canon Cinema camera!
Great video, man! Thank you very much for such an inventive approach to testing this new mode on the GH6. I really appreciate it, and also really appreciate your easy going delivery and pleasant sounding voice. It's such a nice and refreshing thing to hear someone sharing info in your style =)
Love the fact that you did this test and posted the results. Thanks! Regarding the cleaning up of the image at certain ISO values, it's possible that the image gets cleaner because the noise reduction algorithm gets applied more aggressively.
just dropping in to say thanks. I'm running head first into my brother's wedding shoot with a new GH6 and a sigma 10-15 1.7 I've yet to actually try (it's arriving tomorrow), so this saves me a LOT of time. will edit the comment next week to share how it went. definitely using DR boost! cheers 🙏🏼
@@RedFrameTech I feel like that lens might save my ass, it's almost like cheating even on MFT... slap that on a gimbal, Bob's your uncle, winner winner wedding dinner 🤣
Your videos are excellent, friend, these same tests would be possible, but for photos with the gh6, thanks for these videos, they help a lot to know the limits of our cameras well
Nice test!!! I new to photography and just upgraded from a gh3. I am mostly capturing my son's soccer games video and pictures. Seems like I should just have the Dr boost on all the time.
Hey, thanks a lot to share your wonderful video. I have a GH6 from a little time and I'd like to ask a question please. I have never shot with DR Boost on. I make only documenttaries in Africa or other places where there is a lot of light. I shoot UHD, V-Log 50p 4:2:2 and AUTO ISO. In your opinion is it better if I enable DR Boost and leave it always active? I thank you for your precious news.
Hi. Thanks! DR boost is useful, even if you have a lot of light. It gives you more dynamic range which makes your highlights clip at a higher point. You do need a strong ND filter though, as your base ISO goes to 2000 in V-log. I personally wouldn’t shoot auto ISO as your exposure couldn’t change during a shot. But that’s of course personal preference. Other than that; I’d say try it and evaluate the results to see if they suit your needs
Thanks for doing these tests. Remarkably clean in my opinion given the M43 format and given the GH6 is still using an FSI sensor. Would love to see some tests on noise floor. How well are you able to recover detail out of extreme low lit areas?
Very nice work Sebastiaan. I use flat profile with DR boost on for wildlife. It capture full dynamic range in most cases and the results are great. I like to propose a bird in flight af settings test with 100-400mm. Up till now my attempts to capture bird in flight handheld failed. You live near the sea with lots of gulls to practice on, while I live all the way east of NL. I am happy to practice together and speed things up in the jungle of settings to try.
Hoi Bart, dankjewel 🙏 leuk om ook wat Nederlandse kijkers te hebben 🙂 I have in fact already been doing some bird in flight tests with the GH6 and the 100-400. Haven’t had much luck yet either (except for some manual focus shots). It’d be interesting to share our results for sure! By the way, I live on Goeree-Overflakkee, about 100m from the Grevelingen meer. So you’re right, lots of seagulls 🙂
I watched this episode when you published it last year as I could not understand what DR Boost could do. And I've watched it again tonight and I still don't have a clue when and when not to use it. I've only used DR Boost a couple of times outside in daylight and had to use some strong ND filters just to keep the waveform happy. I'm probably using DR Boost wrong through user stupidity, however what sort of settings would you suggest to turn on DR Boost please? BTW how you getting on with the Luts?
Hi Frank! Yeah, DR boost is a little cumbersome to use. In general, having DR boost on produces better results in terms of noise performance at higher ISOs and of course the increased dynamic range (which is quite noticeable). However, in daylight situations I hardly ever turn it on, unless I have a very high contrast scene, because of the base ISO of 2000 in V log. A very strong ND filter is required in that kind of situation. On the other hand, if you're shooting with high ISOs anyway, because of a lack of light, it's good to turn dr boost on for better noise performance and increased dynamic range. I will have a section on dr boost in my coming GH6 long term review. The LUTs are very nice, once you learn how to use them 😅 What's your experience with them?Thank you again for sending them to me. Much appreciated.
@@RedFrameTech After watching a few TH-cams and a bit of random testing, I've also come to the same conclusion that DR Boost is better in low light or twilight settings. You are most welcome to the Luts. Personally, I find the Essentials Pack a lot more forgiving than the Pro Pack which need a subtle touch. I try to get all my clips colour Balanced to my liking but I don't use the Luts on the Clips Nodes. I use the Luts on the Timeline Node Tree instead so that everything gets an even feel. Not sure if this is best practice, but its the best method I've found. I also stick with a bog standard Node Tree and not one that Cullen uses. I just don't see the point.
hello. ive been using lumix since the gh2. At present, I have a GH5S as my B-cam and the GH6 as my new A-cam. I use them in festival environments. I would LOVE for you to check out the noise profiles in varying temperatures. Although i haven't done proper testing, I swear the gh5s behaves differently at different temperatures. I would suspect, with the GH6 requiring a fan, temperature is playing a role in how noise is produced. I've heard from people doing astrophotography that they tend to allow the camera to cool to ambient temps at night in order to reduce noise. It would be interesting to find out just how much temperature plays a role on your noise profiles. Worth a video, i think.
Hi! That would be an interesting video to make. In general terms, the cooler a sensor is being kept, the less noise it will produce, but I would indeed be interesting how much of a difference that makes. I'll definitely try to make a video about that. I'll have to figure out a repeatable testing setup first 😅 Thanks for watching!
the best test I ever seen for DR and natural/V-log profile on GH6. Well done!!! One question thow.Where you had the the noise reduction during the tests? One 0,+1-1?
Thanks! 🙏 In V-log I had NR at lowest possible, so 0. In Natural I had it at default. As that seems like how most people have those profiles set up, including myself
Really well done video and tests! Subscribed. What would be your best guess of the high and low ISO with DR Boost on and V-Log off? I typically don't shoot in v-log. I would like to know cleanest ISO's with just DR Boost on. Thanks!
Thanks for subscribing! 🙏 In my experience so far, ISO 800,3200 and 10000 are the cleanest with of course 800 the very cleanest and 10000 being the noisiest of the 3. This is when having DR Boost ON with something like the Natural profile.
Very useful comparison. I switched from GH5 and still find confusing noise levels in both DR Boost on and off. Even in a daylight I see more noice compared to GH5, which I find baffling considering I use it for “run and gun” with variety of lighting conditions I shoot (I shoot in VLOG only). I will experiment with ISO based upon your findings.
For photography, I have been ramping up my ISO 800-1600 and the camera is really great. I don't my gh5 above 400. I am still experimenting with video. No conclusions on DR boost, but I do like the flat profile better than natural. Based on you info, I going to experiment in the 2000 ISO range a little more.
@@deantyler7341 haven’t tried many other profiles. I’ll have a look at the flat profile. I believe DR Boost is automatically engaged in photo modes. In video you can turn it off or on. Let me know what you think about working with the higher ISOs
Very helpful thanks! But I seem to be getting a lot more noise when shooting with V-Log and DR Boost On (particularly indoors)... I wonder if I've missed a setting somewhere?
What you might be seeing is the base ISO going up from 250 to 2000 in V-log when turning on DR Boost. That is noisier. Also, ISO 2500 seems to be a bad spot to be at in terms of noise.
Thanks for interesting tests. I have used my GH6 a lot and I am a little confused with the DR boost. In my eyes this feature seems to do very little to image quality. I use normal profiles, almost always cineD2. DR boost combines low iso and high iso image and makes some kind of "HDR" result. When using normal profiles like cineD2 the difference is very small. It does nothing to highlights and makes shadows a bit cleaner. Colors and highlights clips easily. I understand that "normal" profiles uses rec709 color and luminance space and therefore the camera is not allowed to make too "wide range" image but it would be nice to have at least some visual benefit. Using vlog or HLG the benefit is visible but the iso2000 noise cancels the joy. I would call the DR boost better the low light NR boost. There is almost no benefit of using DR boost ON iso2000 vs DR boost OFF iso250. I think the exposure should also be almost the same because the sensor clips the higlights at the same light volume anyway. It is confusing to think whether I should shoot cineD2 iso800 with DR boost ON or iso100 without the DR boost. Iso100 clearly cleaner but iso800 DR boost is also very good but a little noisier. GH6 iso800 DR boost is still much better than my GH5 iso800 which is quite noisy compared to GH6. The GH6 has better IQ in iso800 DR ON than GH5 iso200. Then there is photo side. Photo mode uses DR boost automatically starting iso800. I have compared iso640 and iso800 (normal profiles) and there is very little or no difference. Again the benefit shows maybe in RAW My mind says that the difference must be bigger when combining low and hig iso image. I hope GH6 gets real time LUT. Then I could have DRboost benefits without editing videos.
Thanks for sharing! DR boost is not really beneficial to anything other than V-log. But when used with V-log is does increase dynamic range in the highlights. So high contrast scenes is where DR boost shines. The extra noise can be easily dealt with in post. Not a problem for me at least. I don’t know much about the photo side, but yeah, real time lut would be nice. Cheers!
Thank you for the test! I just did my first shoot wondering whether to have DRB on and it seems that it allows more head room. I worry about the 2K ISO noise but that noise is apparent after 4-5k.
@@RedFrameTech Ah ok... I messed up on a few clips because of having it off, the first part of the clip I exposed fine but the middle part, production went ham on the lights and I didn't bother checking and it was over exposed to hell. I mean it's not unwatchable but, to the trained eye, all the colors are washed as you showed on the color pallete.
There seems to be a correlation between ISO, profile and DR Boost that doesnt seem to follow any logic. So if I shoot in a perfectly lit/controlled environment and would like to use VLOG and DR Boost on (for the better noise levels) I am basically forced to work at 2000 ISO...and use an ND filter to not totally overexpose my images?? Or should I turn the DR boost of? Or even use another profile (like the flat or even HLG profile as some people have commented here)? The whole topic ia overly confusing tbh
I mean, my Studio setup is so well lit that ISO 100 or even Low 50 is enough (according) to the meter. But then I have to turn off DR Boost. Generally asking, is DR Boost a function for low light situations?
DR boost is cumbersome to use. You're correct; you're forced to use ISO 2000 in V-log with DR boost on (ISO 800 in other profiles). I basically only use it when I need to shoot a very high contrast scene (with strong ND) or low-light. For any other situation I leave it off. There's also no real benefit to the increased dynamic range of DR boost when the shot doesn't have a high dynamic range (contrast) to begin with, compared to low ISO (250) shots.
I skipped every other model, I'm still on the gh5. Hopefully the new MFT camera with PD AF will be more straight forward. I hope they'll be able to give the dynamic range needed without having to deal with extreme ISOs and exposure settings. Have you dug into how ISO impacts DR? I've read articles that show that there is a curve in DR depending on the ISO. The lower the ISO the better the shadows. The higher the ISO you get better highlights. So maybe there is indeed dual ISO in the GH6 but they masked it as DR Boost. They probably limit your base ISO to keep it high so that you get the DR benefits... Another good test would be check the shadows with DR Boost on/off.
I think all of what you say is correct. I do plan on making a follow up video about dr boost testing shadows. I’ve had multiple requests for that. Thanks for watching!
awesome video ! I have my GH6 but haven't been using DR boost, I'll definitely use it now! its weird how in ISO 1600 VLog cleans up, and in ISO 3200 does the same thing but for Natural profile too, have you tried in some other profiles if this happens ?
I just got a GH6 and took it outside, grabbed a few shots in bright sun with DR Boost on. The shots are blown out and overexposed because with DR Boost on, I can't set my ISO lower than 800. What am I doing wrong? Is DR Boost meant to overexpose so that it can be corrected in post?
Correct, base ISO with DR boost on is 800 (in V-log 2000). You're not doing anything wrong, but you need to get yourself a variable ND filter to controle your exposure, even when not using DR boost. It's an essential tool when you're shooting video. Have fun with your GH6! Thanks for watching!
@@RedFrameTech AH YES! The ND filter. Thanks so much for the video and the reply to my comment. Filter is ordered and testing will resume - with better results!
i think you are witnessing noise reduction kick in at certain high isos. that being said i do wish Panasonic allowed us to access both DRB and dual native iso functions on the gh6
That could be true! Although I would expect a more gradual change in noise reduction. I agree with you. Would be great to be able to use dual native ISO
Hey, very interesting tests. Extra thing: I played with the camera and found that is NO difference /in dynamic range/ between DRB On and Off with ISO 800 (Standard profile). So I don't see any reason for 800 ISO limitation - you need to use Vlog and 2000 ISO anyway
Thanks for your input! Thinking about your findings, it does make sense that there’s no difference with DRB on or off in standard profile since that’s a rec709 profile which is a limited space. I did hear about it making a difference in CineD2 which I plan on looking into.
@@RedFrameTech actually, Rec709 may be very flexible - I prefer it over Zlog2 in my Zcam S6. It has same dynamic range with a slightly different waveform in highlights
@@NikitaGarets interesting! I don’t have the same experience with lumix cameras. On both my G9 and GH6 dynamic range is significantly higher in V-Log(L) than in any Rec709 profile. But I am definitely going to take another look at it with your comment in mind
@@RedFrameTech Need to correct myself, it seems DRB On mode in Standard profiles gives a more info in shadows so it is worth to keep it turned on. Anyway, I can not recommend this camera because of modes limitations
VERY good and useful test Sebastiaan! I done several iso test myself on the GH6 lately. I'm impressed by the consistency of the noise floor but think the noise in the shadows when using V-log is whey to high and obvious in all iso's. I always use V-log in my workflow so I think it's a bit enjoying when you need clean shots for commercial purpose. What is your thoughts on this?
Thanks Martin! I also almost exclusively shoot V-log. But I share your opinion; it is impressive and annoying at the same time. Noise levels are consistent across the ISO range, but the noise in the shadows is very apparent. In my experience so far it having DR boost ON makes a difference because you can overexpose a little more, which causes less noise in the shadows. However, I find having full V-log in the GH6 gives so much room for correction in post and the colours are just outstanding.
This camera uses a lot of noise reduction, it is why your ISO 400 seems cleaner than ISO 100. There is no miracle. The 5,7K downsampled to 4K gives a sharper image with less noise, this is the best mode in my opinion, however (only a few people talk about this) there is a very small crop on the 5,7K.
Thanks for sharing your experiences! I just tested what you said about the crop. I’m not seeing any crop at all. About the NR: during my tests in this video I had the noise reduction dialed down all the way (which is 0 on the GH6, not -5). So all the jumps in noise you see in my video are with the lowest possible noise reduction
@@RedFrameTech Take the same clip with C4K 30fps and 5,7K 30fps, you will see a very small crop, you can view it when you review the 2 videos on the camera. No I was speaking about the natural profile (you can choose -5 NR), I didn't tested the noise in V-LOG yet.
Why the gh6 is so noisy, is it normal? I'm struggling in some records I'm doing, I've found the gh6 image a little soft too, is it only me? What do you say?
In my experience I don’t find it very noisy. That said, exposing the image properly is key to having the least noise possible. With DR Boost you can expose for the shadows a bit more and bring the highlight back in post. Haven’t noticed softness. What lens are you using?
@@RedFrameTech hi, thanks for answering! I'm having problems even with lower the ISOs, maybe I'm not exposing it right, do you have any video explaining how to expose it in vlog? If not can you do that? I'm using the Leica 10-25mm
I have a video series on V-logL on my channel (How to use V-logL part 1,2 and 3). Most of it applies to the full V-log version on the GH6 as well. The GH6 has more room in the highlights though, so you could overexpose it a little more. I’ll probably make a video specifically on the GH6 as well. About the softness; not sure why you seem to have softness in your image. the Leica 10-25 should be plenty sharp. Maybe your subject was slightly out of focus? Hope it helps!
It can be noisy. Try doing a Pixel refresh in the menu. It resets the black point for the pixels and should help with the noise. Also no idea why your having soft footage. My gh6 is razor sharp.
As someone who switched to Sony after the GH5, I have to say that these tests with DR Boost are quite impressive. Other content creators who demonstrated DR Boost were less complimentary about the feature. Maybe they didn't understand its use. Either way, this really brings MFT sensors, and the GH6, back into play for filmmaking. Recently, I heard rumors of Panasonic planning on a Phase Detect AF system in a future camera. If they succeed at that, I think their market share could see a substantial DR Boost. (wink). I've always liked the colors that Panasonic cameras produce. So, let's see what Panasonic does next. Excellent demonstration.
Thank you 🙏 The GH6 is a big improvement leap in MFT and I'm curious what future plans they have for the system. I also am a big fan of Panasonic colors and is one of the reasons I'm staying with the system. I've also heard the rumors about phase detect AF. I think you're right. It'll give Panasonic's market share a big DR boost 🙂
What made you switch to Sony? Low light performance? Or something else?
@@RedFrameTech Being an indie/low budget filmmaker, I really needed reliable autofocus. I can't afford a focus puller. Sony has the best AF at this time. Really reliable AF. Currently, I am shooting with the Sony FX30, and excellent camera. As many people have demonstrated, while full frame sensors do provide more dynamic range, smaller sensors - even the Super 35 sensor like the FX30 has - can still produce excellent results. But, what really speeds up production - IMHO - is good color science. And Panasonic, in my view, has the best colors straight out of camera. When you get great colors straight out of camera, even shooting in Log, it makes color grading in post a LOT easier.
If Panasonic can bring Phase Detect AF to their cameras, I might just switch back. *Imagine a G9 mk2 with PDAF*. MFT cameras are a lot cheaper and lighter, and have much lighter lenses. And for run-n-gun, low budget filmmaking, that goes a long way.
I can definitely see why you switched.
I absolutely agree with you on colors. In fact, that’s why I haven’t considered Sony, eventhough the AF is very enticing. Also, usability of the Lumix cameras is one of the strong points.
I do think the FX30 is a great camera 🙂 but your G9 mII with PDAF suggestion would be close to a perfect camera
This is the single best test I’ve seen on the GH6. I smashed that subscribe button!
Thanks great to hear! Thanks for subscribing 🙏
Another really good and helpful episode. Thank you! My take-away from this and other commenters, is that BOOST is hard to define exactly, but things generally look better with it on.
Thanks Lance 🙏
That’s also my take-away and have DR Boost on almost all of the time
Great video, thanks for looking into this. I've found DR boost a great tool so far and have used it on almost every shoot. I even shot with my GH6 and used it alongside a Canon C70 and this camera 100% holds up well next to the canon Cinema camera!
Great video, man! Thank you very much for such an inventive approach to testing this new mode on the GH6. I really appreciate it, and also really appreciate your easy going delivery and pleasant sounding voice. It's such a nice and refreshing thing to hear someone sharing info in your style =)
Thank you very much for your kind words 🙂🙏
Love the fact that you did this test and posted the results. Thanks! Regarding the cleaning up of the image at certain ISO values, it's possible that the image gets cleaner because the noise reduction algorithm gets applied more aggressively.
That could definitely be an explanation. Thanks!
Great testing - especially the DR - you made it so obvious. Thanks for the vid!
You’re welcome 🙂 thanks for watching!
just dropping in to say thanks. I'm running head first into my brother's wedding shoot with a new GH6 and a sigma 10-15 1.7 I've yet to actually try (it's arriving tomorrow), so this saves me a LOT of time. will edit the comment next week to share how it went. definitely using DR boost! cheers 🙏🏼
Awesome! Glad it was helpful. Have fun with your GH6! And it would be cool to know how it went 🙂
@@RedFrameTech I feel like that lens might save my ass, it's almost like cheating even on MFT... slap that on a gimbal, Bob's your uncle, winner winner wedding dinner 🤣
Your videos are excellent, friend, these same tests would be possible, but for photos with the gh6, thanks for these videos, they help a lot to know the limits of our cameras well
Thanks 🙏 glad it’s helpful 🙂
Nice test!!! I new to photography and just upgraded from a gh3. I am mostly capturing my son's soccer games video and pictures. Seems like I should just have the Dr boost on all the time.
Thanks! Yeah, DR boost on definitely gives the best results. But like I said, it can be a bit tough to handle ISO 2000 in V-log during high noon..
Thanks for upload.
Hey, thanks a lot to share your wonderful video. I have a GH6 from a little time and I'd like to ask a question please. I have never shot with DR Boost on. I make only documenttaries in Africa or other places where there is a lot of light. I shoot UHD, V-Log 50p 4:2:2 and AUTO ISO. In your opinion is it better if I enable DR Boost and leave it always active? I thank you for your precious news.
Hi. Thanks! DR boost is useful, even if you have a lot of light. It gives you more dynamic range which makes your highlights clip at a higher point. You do need a strong ND filter though, as your base ISO goes to 2000 in V-log.
I personally wouldn’t shoot auto ISO as your exposure couldn’t change during a shot. But that’s of course personal preference. Other than that; I’d say try it and evaluate the results to see if they suit your needs
This is insightful info on the GH6’s ISO capabilities.
Def helps deciding settings. Awsome again.Thank you
Thanks for doing these tests. Remarkably clean in my opinion given the M43 format and given the GH6 is still using an FSI sensor.
Would love to see some tests on noise floor. How well are you able to recover detail out of extreme low lit areas?
You're welcome! Yeah, the performance is pretty good. I do want to run some more tests. Hopefully soon
Very nice work Sebastiaan. I use flat profile with DR boost on for wildlife. It capture full dynamic range in most cases and the results are great. I like to propose a bird in flight af settings test with 100-400mm. Up till now my attempts to capture bird in flight handheld failed. You live near the sea with lots of gulls to practice on, while I live all the way east of NL. I am happy to practice together and speed things up in the jungle of settings to try.
Hoi Bart, dankjewel 🙏 leuk om ook wat Nederlandse kijkers te hebben 🙂
I have in fact already been doing some bird in flight tests with the GH6 and the 100-400. Haven’t had much luck yet either (except for some manual focus shots).
It’d be interesting to share our results for sure!
By the way, I live on Goeree-Overflakkee, about 100m from the Grevelingen meer. So you’re right, lots of seagulls 🙂
I enjoyed your interesting test video👍
I'm sure that good videos will continue to be great.
This was great. Thank you for the work you put into this comparison review
Brilliant demonstration , thanks very much for posting .
I watched this episode when you published it last year as I could not understand what DR Boost could do. And I've watched it again tonight and I still don't have a clue when and when not to use it.
I've only used DR Boost a couple of times outside in daylight and had to use some strong ND filters just to keep the waveform happy.
I'm probably using DR Boost wrong through user stupidity, however what sort of settings would you suggest to turn on DR Boost please?
BTW how you getting on with the Luts?
Hi Frank!
Yeah, DR boost is a little cumbersome to use. In general, having DR boost on produces better results in terms of noise performance at higher ISOs and of course the increased dynamic range (which is quite noticeable).
However, in daylight situations I hardly ever turn it on, unless I have a very high contrast scene, because of the base ISO of 2000 in V log. A very strong ND filter is required in that kind of situation. On the other hand, if you're shooting with high ISOs anyway, because of a lack of light, it's good to turn dr boost on for better noise performance and increased dynamic range. I will have a section on dr boost in my coming GH6 long term review.
The LUTs are very nice, once you learn how to use them 😅 What's your experience with them?Thank you again for sending them to me. Much appreciated.
@@RedFrameTech After watching a few TH-cams and a bit of random testing, I've also come to the same conclusion that DR Boost is better in low light or twilight settings.
You are most welcome to the Luts. Personally, I find the Essentials Pack a lot more forgiving than the Pro Pack which need a subtle touch.
I try to get all my clips colour Balanced to my liking but I don't use the Luts on the Clips Nodes. I use the Luts on the Timeline Node Tree instead so that everything gets an even feel. Not sure if this is best practice, but its the best method I've found. I also stick with a bog standard Node Tree and not one that Cullen uses. I just don't see the point.
hello. ive been using lumix since the gh2. At present, I have a GH5S as my B-cam and the GH6 as my new A-cam. I use them in festival environments. I would LOVE for you to check out the noise profiles in varying temperatures. Although i haven't done proper testing, I swear the gh5s behaves differently at different temperatures. I would suspect, with the GH6 requiring a fan, temperature is playing a role in how noise is produced. I've heard from people doing astrophotography that they tend to allow the camera to cool to ambient temps at night in order to reduce noise. It would be interesting to find out just how much temperature plays a role on your noise profiles. Worth a video, i think.
Hi! That would be an interesting video to make. In general terms, the cooler a sensor is being kept, the less noise it will produce, but I would indeed be interesting how much of a difference that makes. I'll definitely try to make a video about that. I'll have to figure out a repeatable testing setup first 😅
Thanks for watching!
the best test I ever seen for DR and natural/V-log profile on GH6. Well done!!! One question thow.Where you had the the noise reduction during the tests? One 0,+1-1?
Thanks! 🙏
In V-log I had NR at lowest possible, so 0. In Natural I had it at default. As that seems like how most people have those profiles set up, including myself
Thanks for the content. Any tests of DR Boost with ProRes Raw (external)?
That’ll definitely be in a future video
Really well done video and tests! Subscribed. What would be your best guess of the high and low ISO with DR Boost on and V-Log off? I typically don't shoot in v-log. I would like to know cleanest ISO's with just DR Boost on. Thanks!
Thanks for subscribing! 🙏
In my experience so far, ISO 800,3200 and 10000 are the cleanest with of course 800 the very cleanest and 10000 being the noisiest of the 3. This is when having DR Boost ON with something like the Natural profile.
@@RedFrameTech Perfect! Now I know what ISO's to bounce around. I will check out your other videos too. Cheers!
Thank you for the helpful test, this is really helpful.
You’re most welcome!
Very useful comparison. I switched from GH5 and still find confusing noise levels in both DR Boost on and off. Even in a daylight I see more noice compared to GH5, which I find baffling considering I use it for “run and gun” with variety of lighting conditions I shoot (I shoot in VLOG only). I will experiment with ISO based upon your findings.
Yeah, the GH6 is a bit of a confusing camera in terms of ISO and noise levels. Curious to hear what your experiences are. If you want, let me know
Yeah, I'm struggling with the GH6 too with the noise in vlog, i don't know what to do
For photography, I have been ramping up my ISO 800-1600 and the camera is really great. I don't my gh5 above 400. I am still experimenting with video. No conclusions on DR boost, but I do like the flat profile better than natural. Based on you info, I going to experiment in the 2000 ISO range a little more.
@@deantyler7341 haven’t tried many other profiles. I’ll have a look at the flat profile.
I believe DR Boost is automatically engaged in photo modes. In video you can turn it off or on.
Let me know what you think about working with the higher ISOs
@@BillChanel Adjusting Noise Reduction in Q menu helps.
good idea to overexpose the color chart, I do wish you had a dark subject as well though
Thanks for the feedback! 🙏
Hey man loving the content! Id love to do a collaboration or sit down on a video call and chat sometime.
@rhettthompson That’d be cool! I enjoy your content too!
Let’s have a chat sometime about what we can do together
Very helpful thanks! But I seem to be getting a lot more noise when shooting with V-Log and DR Boost On (particularly indoors)... I wonder if I've missed a setting somewhere?
What you might be seeing is the base ISO going up from 250 to 2000 in V-log when turning on DR Boost. That is noisier. Also, ISO 2500 seems to be a bad spot to be at in terms of noise.
Nice. Thank you 🙏
Thanks for interesting tests. I have used my GH6 a lot and I am a little confused with the DR boost. In my eyes this feature seems to do very little to image quality. I use normal profiles, almost always cineD2.
DR boost combines low iso and high iso image and makes some kind of "HDR" result. When using normal profiles like cineD2 the difference is very small. It does nothing to highlights and makes shadows a bit cleaner. Colors and highlights clips easily. I understand that "normal" profiles uses rec709 color and luminance space and therefore the camera is not allowed to make too "wide range" image but it would be nice to have at least some visual benefit.
Using vlog or HLG the benefit is visible but the iso2000 noise cancels the joy. I would call the DR boost better the low light NR boost. There is almost no benefit of using DR boost ON iso2000 vs DR boost OFF iso250. I think the exposure should also be almost the same because the sensor clips the higlights at the same light volume anyway.
It is confusing to think whether I should shoot cineD2 iso800 with DR boost ON or iso100 without the DR boost. Iso100 clearly cleaner but iso800 DR boost is also very good but a little noisier. GH6 iso800 DR boost is still much better than my GH5 iso800 which is quite noisy compared to GH6. The GH6 has better IQ in iso800 DR ON than GH5 iso200.
Then there is photo side. Photo mode uses DR boost automatically starting iso800. I have compared iso640 and iso800 (normal profiles) and there is very little or no difference. Again the benefit shows maybe in RAW
My mind says that the difference must be bigger when combining low and hig iso image. I hope GH6 gets real time LUT. Then I could have DRboost benefits without editing videos.
Thanks for sharing!
DR boost is not really beneficial to anything other than V-log. But when used with V-log is does increase dynamic range in the highlights. So high contrast scenes is where DR boost shines. The extra noise can be easily dealt with in post. Not a problem for me at least.
I don’t know much about the photo side, but yeah, real time lut would be nice. Cheers!
Thank you for your effort!
Really good video. Thank you.
Thank you for the test! I just did my first shoot wondering whether to have DRB on and it seems that it allows more head room. I worry about the 2K ISO noise but that noise is apparent after 4-5k.
It definitely allows more head room. I use ISO up to 6400 (with a little de-noising in post)
@@RedFrameTech Ah ok... I messed up on a few clips because of having it off, the first part of the clip I exposed fine but the middle part, production went ham on the lights and I didn't bother checking and it was over exposed to hell. I mean it's not unwatchable but, to the trained eye, all the colors are washed as you showed on the color pallete.
@@ron.2023 happens to all of us sometimes 😅 sucks when it does..
Great job....wow. Thank you!
There seems to be a correlation between ISO, profile and DR Boost that doesnt seem to follow any logic.
So if I shoot in a perfectly lit/controlled environment and would like to use VLOG and DR Boost on (for the better noise levels) I am basically forced to work at 2000 ISO...and use an ND filter to not totally overexpose my images??
Or should I turn the DR boost of? Or even use another profile (like the flat or even HLG profile as some people have commented here)?
The whole topic ia overly confusing tbh
I mean, my Studio setup is so well lit that ISO 100 or even Low 50 is enough (according) to the meter. But then I have to turn off DR Boost.
Generally asking, is DR Boost a function for low light situations?
DR boost is cumbersome to use. You're correct; you're forced to use ISO 2000 in V-log with DR boost on (ISO 800 in other profiles). I basically only use it when I need to shoot a very high contrast scene (with strong ND) or low-light. For any other situation I leave it off. There's also no real benefit to the increased dynamic range of DR boost when the shot doesn't have a high dynamic range (contrast) to begin with, compared to low ISO (250) shots.
I skipped every other model, I'm still on the gh5. Hopefully the new MFT camera with PD AF will be more straight forward.
I hope they'll be able to give the dynamic range needed without having to deal with extreme ISOs and exposure settings.
Have you dug into how ISO impacts DR? I've read articles that show that there is a curve in DR depending on the ISO.
The lower the ISO the better the shadows. The higher the ISO you get better highlights.
So maybe there is indeed dual ISO in the GH6 but they masked it as DR Boost. They probably limit your base ISO to keep it high so that you get the DR benefits...
Another good test would be check the shadows with DR Boost on/off.
I think all of what you say is correct. I do plan on making a follow up video about dr boost testing shadows. I’ve had multiple requests for that.
Thanks for watching!
Great video
Thanks!
awesome video ! I have my GH6 but haven't been using DR boost, I'll definitely use it now! its weird how in ISO 1600 VLog cleans up, and in ISO 3200 does the same thing but for Natural profile too, have you tried in some other profiles if this happens ?
Thanks 🙏
Haven’t really tried other profiles. I’m planning on doing some more tests though
noise reduction seems to kick in at certain high ISOs on the gh6
@@fansofER interesting! Did you run some tests yourself to figure that out? If so, I’m interested to know how you tested it
@@fansofER I found there is far less noise reduction in 5.7/5,8K mode.
What a great video!
Thanks 🙏
Super THX 👍
Great find man!!!!
Thanks!
Intresting. Thank you
I just got a GH6 and took it outside, grabbed a few shots in bright sun with DR Boost on. The shots are blown out and overexposed because with DR Boost on, I can't set my ISO lower than 800. What am I doing wrong? Is DR Boost meant to overexpose so that it can be corrected in post?
Correct, base ISO with DR boost on is 800 (in V-log 2000). You're not doing anything wrong, but you need to get yourself a variable ND filter to controle your exposure, even when not using DR boost. It's an essential tool when you're shooting video. Have fun with your GH6!
Thanks for watching!
@@RedFrameTech AH YES! The ND filter. Thanks so much for the video and the reply to my comment. Filter is ordered and testing will resume - with better results!
i think you are witnessing noise reduction kick in at certain high isos. that being said i do wish Panasonic allowed us to access both DRB and dual native iso functions on the gh6
That could be true! Although I would expect a more gradual change in noise reduction.
I agree with you. Would be great to be able to use dual native ISO
Hey, very interesting tests. Extra thing: I played with the camera and found that is NO difference /in dynamic range/ between DRB On and Off with ISO 800 (Standard profile). So I don't see any reason for 800 ISO limitation - you need to use Vlog and 2000 ISO anyway
Thanks for your input! Thinking about your findings, it does make sense that there’s no difference with DRB on or off in standard profile since that’s a rec709 profile which is a limited space. I did hear about it making a difference in CineD2 which I plan on looking into.
@@RedFrameTech actually, Rec709 may be very flexible - I prefer it over Zlog2 in my Zcam S6. It has same dynamic range with a slightly different waveform in highlights
@@NikitaGarets interesting! I don’t have the same experience with lumix cameras. On both my G9 and GH6 dynamic range is significantly higher in V-Log(L) than in any Rec709 profile. But I am definitely going to take another look at it with your comment in mind
@@RedFrameTech Need to correct myself, it seems DRB On mode in Standard profiles gives a more info in shadows so it is worth to keep it turned on.
Anyway, I can not recommend this camera because of modes limitations
@@NikitaGarets Good to know! Not sure what you mean by 'modes limitations' though
Dynamic range boost is the same as the dual gain sensor thing in canons c70
Interesting! I’m going to look into that. Thanks
@@RedFrameTechwhat was your conclusion
@@imaflymydroneatitThat it probably is, but I haven’t been able to get my hands on a camera with a similar feature
VERY good and useful test Sebastiaan! I done several iso test myself on the GH6 lately. I'm impressed by the consistency of the noise floor but think the noise in the shadows when using V-log is whey to high and obvious in all iso's. I always use V-log in my workflow so I think it's a bit enjoying when you need clean shots for commercial purpose. What is your thoughts on this?
Thanks Martin! I also almost exclusively shoot V-log.
But I share your opinion; it is impressive and annoying at the same time. Noise levels are consistent across the ISO range, but the noise in the shadows is very apparent. In my experience so far it having DR boost ON makes a difference because you can overexpose a little more, which causes less noise in the shadows.
However, I find having full V-log in the GH6 gives so much room for correction in post and the colours are just outstanding.
This camera uses a lot of noise reduction, it is why your ISO 400 seems cleaner than ISO 100. There is no miracle.
The 5,7K downsampled to 4K gives a sharper image with less noise, this is the best mode in my opinion, however (only a few people talk about this) there is a very small crop on the 5,7K.
Thanks for sharing your experiences!
I just tested what you said about the crop. I’m not seeing any crop at all.
About the NR: during my tests in this video I had the noise reduction dialed down all the way (which is 0 on the GH6, not -5). So all the jumps in noise you see in my video are with the lowest possible noise reduction
@@RedFrameTech Take the same clip with C4K 30fps and 5,7K 30fps, you will see a very small crop, you can view it when you review the 2 videos on the camera.
No I was speaking about the natural profile (you can choose -5 NR), I didn't tested the noise in V-LOG yet.
👍 I’ll try again
@@slows728 yep, seen it now! There’s an ever so slight crop in 5.7k compared to C4k. Interesting. Thanks for pointing it out!
grazie
👍🏾🙏🏾
Why the gh6 is so noisy, is it normal? I'm struggling in some records I'm doing, I've found the gh6 image a little soft too, is it only me? What do you say?
In my experience I don’t find it very noisy. That said, exposing the image properly is key to having the least noise possible. With DR Boost you can expose for the shadows a bit more and bring the highlight back in post.
Haven’t noticed softness. What lens are you using?
@@RedFrameTech hi, thanks for answering! I'm having problems even with lower the ISOs, maybe I'm not exposing it right, do you have any video explaining how to expose it in vlog? If not can you do that? I'm using the Leica 10-25mm
I have a video series on V-logL on my channel (How to use V-logL part 1,2 and 3). Most of it applies to the full V-log version on the GH6 as well. The GH6 has more room in the highlights though, so you could overexpose it a little more. I’ll probably make a video specifically on the GH6 as well.
About the softness; not sure why you seem to have softness in your image. the Leica 10-25 should be plenty sharp. Maybe your subject was slightly out of focus?
Hope it helps!
It can be noisy. Try doing a Pixel refresh in the menu. It resets the black point for the pixels and should help with the noise. Also no idea why your having soft footage. My gh6 is razor sharp.
@@jessecumberledge4530 can you please loan your Gh6 to Kasey so we can all see the battle we've all been waiting for:):)