Have you vented your crankcase using the transmission top cover or a vented dipstick? Are you using a check valve? Let me know how it's working and if you have had any surprises along the way.
I want to do a follow up on this project and give a big thank you to Ron for the research and his efforts to make this happen. I did this on my 2019 Street Glide Special and all I can say is wow! Only difference in project is I used 1/4 fittings throughout and it works great. This put an end to the oily crap in my intake (left factory breather hose as is) and made a noticeable difference freeing up HP on the motor. Lastly my oil level finally stays where you put it and doesn’t slowly disappear as you rack up the miles.
Hey Todd - thanks for the kind words and for the project update! That’s awesome! So glad you’ve seen good results. And if you want a sticker send me a DM on Telegram, Instagram or Signal with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
Back in 1977 I bought a new AMF Sportster 1100. One day at a stop light I had oil run down my right leg from the oil tank. The dealership said that a check valve had malfunctioned that caused the oil to come out of the oil tank. That bike had 3 starters go out and the little plastic peace for the points that rode on the cam had broken off leaving me stranded on the side of the interstate. I traded it in on a used KZ900 LTD. Loved that bike.
@@RonsWorkshop Well I'm riding a 2017 Street Glide Special, a 2018 Iron 1200, a 2015 Yamaha XT250, a 2021 MT07, and I'm rebuilding a 1971 Triumph T120R old 70's chopper.
Thanks for the updates. I have done crankcase venting by the transmission cover. I have AN Monster Sucker installed without mods. I've done over 2k miles and breathing bolts are looking good. No oil found. My transmission cover vent works with a small filter without one way valve. No issues so far... Greetings from London UK
Hey Mr. B B - thanks for sharing that info! Glad to hear that’s working well. Greetings from the US! If you want a channel sticker send me a DM on Telegram or Instagram with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
Ok Ron..I did the crankcase vent today. I used all the parts you listed and the install went fine, getting those 6 socket head cap screws out and back in took 90% of the install time. I do have oil dripping from the filter and virtually no oil filling the catch can from the breather bolts so I'm thinking I will switch the filter with the catch can for a bit and then get the breather bolt venting back into the throttle body. Thanks for doing the leg work on this project....still looking forward to the crankcase and breather bolt to the catch can then back to the throttle body. I might beat you to it, I'm trying to find the right catch can. Thanks again Ron.
Hey T Luck - thanks for the update! I’m glad to hear it went smoothly. Keep me posted about the catch can switch. You may well beat me to the other project. I have the parts spec’ but there are a couple of videos in the hopper before that one. If you do it, let me know how it goes. A three port catch can to look at is the one by PQY Racing - there are several that are all about the same and they are all priced differently. Not sure how the quality is but the viewer that is using one hasn’t had any problems at all.
I didn’t notice any oil blowing out onto my side panel until u did a cam upgrade. U also did the S&s oil pump and plate . I’m doing the vent now . It will be interesting to see if it helps
Hi Ron, I just added the crankcase solution to my bike. I first put the vent hose into a glass of water and it blue bubbles big time, but when I added the check valve almost no bubbles so as of now I'm not using a check valve, What do you think?
On a twin cam I have linked the two rocker box breathers with a T-piece running the third hose to another T that is in a hose that runs from my Dyna’s filler neck, I removed said filler neck so I could drill and tap it for a hose-tail which joins the T along with the hose from the rocker breathers. The 3rd part of the T goes up from the filler neck, through a one-way check valve to a breather filter - it works fine but you must remember to NOT overfill the tank or oil comes out of the breather filter all over the bike which is messy but it’s better than going into your air filer/engine…. I did a similar thing to my ‘06 Sporty and it’s working well there as well.
Great solution! Thanks for sharing the details. And if you want a sticker send me a DM on Telegram, Instagram or Signal with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
@@RonsWorkshop As a young 62 year old all this IT stuff is a bit beyond me and forgive me for saying that I can live without a sticker (!). I was around and riding before fuel injection.... before vacuum advance and before CV carbs even... plus I am English so I may speak a 'bit funny' for you guys - no offence intended here. I cut my teeth on the old Brit bikes with points ignition and Amal carbs along with Lucas electrics so all this computer controlled stuff is just nonsense to me. I like to 'hop my bikes up' - the '06 Sporty is now a 1250 (Hammer) with UK ported heads and about 100bhp, my Dyna Streetbob is 113 inch with a 48mm Mikuni and ThunderHeart ignition etc etc and over 130 bhp and torque. I don't know the exact power on either bike as it doen't matter to me - numbers are for accountants, as long as it goes well I don't care. There are lots of things that computers have left us unable to comprehend as 'it is all done for us' which is a good thing.... until it stops working and then people like me seem so clever. I am not really - I just understand the math and science behind things that kids don't learn today !
@@RonsWorkshop Mmmmm yes, and if the carb and ignition are set properly to the mechanical state of tune (compression, cams etc etc) then a good carb can be just as good as fuel injection, but that is quite a trick to master with the way climactic conditions vary - hense the use of EFI and igniton controlled by computer. I think we are of similar minds - I feel if things are 'over-complicated' then there is just more chance something will go wrong and finding the malfunctioning part can take time and patience. My favourite ride was an old pre-unit Triumph with a magneto and alternator - just a half dozen or so wires and no battery required.... so freakin' simple there was nothing that could go wrong ! Bikes like that old Trumpet may pollute more but by hell was it fun to ride !!!
2:20 mine is touring bike…ebs dk mods…still blowing oil on bike..Drip can captures water and what I call Buffalo snot ( foamed oil)…seems related to condensation in crankcase…except for oil blown on bike.
Hey Robert - yes, I think the buffalo snot is normal as condensation forms in the crankcase and mixes with the oil vapor. You might want to add a crankcase vent. th-cam.com/video/JPI3AeMfYeg/w-d-xo.html
Ron, for you and your viewers who are running the OEM breather system, using a certified TOP TIER gasoline exclusively is a good idea, I believe. This may already be common knowledge, but I haven't seen it referenced in your videos so I thought I'd contribute. TOP TIER doesn't pertain to octane rating, the fuel has to incorporate a cleaning additive package to meet certification standards. That helps continuously clean the combustion chamber of excess carbon deposits, just like adding Techron.
Hey bavedoyd - interesting point. In my case, with Stage III, I have to use 93 octane and I always use a "brand name" fuel and not the cheap/off-brands. Thanks for sharing that! If anyone else has ever tested different fuels, drop in your findings.
I have been running an external breather on my 2018 M8 107 and have been unhappy with that gunk fouling the catch can. I've done a S&S cam chest to help prevent any sumping and am getting reading to do your mod with the crankcase vent but was worried about the vacuum....waiting to see how your next mod works....thanks for the vids.
Hey T Luck - thanks for the kind words! How do you like the S&S upgrade? It’ll be a little while before I can get to that catch can project but it’s definitely on the list right after the current projects. If you want a channel sticker send me a DM on Telegram or Instagram with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
@@RonsWorkshop The upgrade was a fun project but took a bit longer than I wanted..I had to upgrade from a FP3 tuner to a Dynojet Powervision tuner. All is well! BTW I did the 465c cam due to availability at the time.
Ron I was wondering your thoughts using a PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) valve style like on a car, I was an auto mechanic back in the day. I have seen them threaded on one end but it was plastic not good for high heat applications.
That’s an option for sure - I think if you went with one for a small import car it would be a small enough version and have low opening threshold. Let me know if you try one!
Man thank you for all you do, these are great videos and information. Really really enjoy them. Also waiting to see your video on the rain sock and getting caught in a downpour. Living Tallahassee Fl I’ve been dreading getting caught in a thunderstorm, I just installed a Screaming Eagle extreme intake and I finally found a rain sock but haven’t had to use it, yet. Again really enjoy your videos
Thanks so much for the kind words! Yeah the rain sock is a requirement for me since that day. I was amazed. I think that’s maybe the third video away in the lineup. I’m in Jacksonville by the way. I’ve ridden bicycles a lot in Tallahassee. I’m sure moto riding is great on all those hilly backroads!
Thanks for the video’s very informative and learning new things every time I visit TH-cam! I recently bought my first Harley 2018 fat bob 107 and came across these videos and wondered if I would still have this problem with the set up that I have on mine when I got it. It’s just a vent on the transmission box. Just a hose with a J bend. Guess I’ll try a few things to see if everything is working as it should.
Hey Marcel - thanks for the kind words! I suspect what you’re seeing is the little vent hose that allows the transmission compartment to breathe. Under that cover there are three compartments. Two of them are vented together and that’s where the rubber hose is. The other one goes to the crankcase and is not vented. Check out my playlist and look for the video about the transmission top cover for all the details: M8 Crankcase Venting, Pressure, and Sumping Playlist: th-cam.com/video/BaG1VdOFe48/w-d-xo.html Let me know if that helps. And if you want a channel sticker send me a DM on Telegram or Instagram with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
I’m using the stock breather bolts with a hose to a catch can rather then the Harley hose to the throttle body. Just got my check valve in the mail. Couldn’t get the same spec ones that you use so hopefully the type I got work ok
Very nice, clean, explicit video...love the way we can follow your projects with good or bad side. I've just bought a Heritage 2022 and I dont like the oil returning in the intake but my bike will have a S&S Stealth Air Stinger filter and I dont want to mess up any parts or have more hoses hanging everywhere. So if I vent the crankcase I will have not all but lots less oil build up to breathing bolts and returning into carb right? Thanks
Hey LaMediatech - thanks for the kind words! Yes, that's what I would expect (noticeably reduced oil at the intake after venting the crankcase). You could always do that as a first step, and then evaluate things from there. Let me know what you decide, and how it goes! And if you want a sticker send me a DM on Telegram, Instagram or Signal with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
ok I was looking closer and found a maybe check value that could be used the specs: 3/8" one way check valve made of aluminum alloy and 304 stainless steel spring. Min upstream pressure:0.2bar(2.9psi),working pressure range: 0.2-6bar (2.9-87psi),operating temperature range: -22℉ to 266℉. I'm wondering if the working pressure range is compatable to this application with the Transmission top cover vent?
Well, the ones I settled on have a breaking pressure is 0.18 psi. That’s the one thing I had trouble with for the other valves I tried - the opening pressure was significantly higher. I didn’t measure them, but rather I’d blow through them to judge the resistance. And o finally found the Cole-Parmer units that have worked well. I did some digging and found out that the previous supplier no longer carries the check valves, but there is a new supplier. The drawback is they only seem to sell them in packs of 6. Here’s a link to what I found: bit.ly/3GxGyGQ Other check valves may work fine, but the lowest possible opening pressure is definitely beneficial. Let me know if that helps at all…
@@RonsWorkshop Thanks for the information on the 0.18 psi check valve. I order them. I'll have to wait till the spring comes to try them out. I have my Limited stored at the Appleton Harley Dealer. I looked at the Trask transmission top cover. It's cool; however, the brass fitting, check valve, hose along with clamps will be a much more cost effective way to go. Using the Trask would be an issue if I wanted to blow out the check valve installed on it.
Sounds good! The Trask piece is very nice but cost and budget definitely come into play. Very well designed and it seems to work well based on what I’ve heard. But yes, for a few bucks and not much more time you can easily do it yourself. Let me know how it goes!! And if you want a sticker send me a DM on Telegram, Instagram or Signal with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
I like the idea of crankcase vacuum for seals and removing air entrainment in the oil. The entrainment isn't a big deal because it vaporizes under normal conditions, but still. Not a fan of applying vacuum to the catch can.
Instead of removing the crank sensor, you should also have a sump plug that you can remove from the bottom of your engine case to easily drain and measure your sump engine oil volume. Cycle Solutions sells drain plugs with extremely strong magnets that you can re-install the next time you drain 4 fluids.(They have the magnetic drain plugs for your engine oil, transmission, primary, and sump.) My 2018 M8 had 16 oz. of engine sump oil that drained out when we removed the sump plug. My suspicion is leaking piston oiler jets. I’ve already got all of the crankcase breathers, S&S cam plate and oil pump. It won’t be fixed until the next engine rebuild with a big bore kit.
Hey Brian - thanks for sharing that info! I’ll do some research on that as well. I’ve got the guidelines for how much oil is “acceptable” when pulling the crank sensor, but the range would be different for the plug you mention. I’ll still pull the cranks sensor, but will likely also tackle the other one in separate video. Sounds like that next engine build will be fun! But I hope you get plenty of good miles before you have to rebuild it, or at least enough good miles until you decide to rebuild it!
Hi Ron and thanks for your videos. I need to do something. I’ve tried external venting the breather bolts and I’ve tried a vented dip stick and I’ve tried them both together…nothing has worked. In fact, I actually seem to get the least blow-by in the intake from the stock setup. I’ve no idea why. I’m getting ready to try this transmission cover/crankcase vent mod on my 2017 Road King.
Hey John - thanks for the kind words! That is very strange. How did you do the breather bolt mod? That should eliminate all of the oil from the intake. But the vented dipstick would alleviate crankcase pressure. In my most recent video I covered a couple of points pertinent to this: th-cam.com/video/JPI3AeMfYeg/w-d-xo.html
Hey Angel - thanks for the kind words! I’m working on that project now. There’s one video in the lineup ahead of it. I’ll let you know when I post it and I’ll link it at that point in the video and in the description as well. And if you want a sticker send me a DM on Telegram, Instagram or Signal with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
I bought a cheap CNC machined aluminium cover off Amazon, then drilled and tapped it for a 3/8 hose fitting with the hose running up into a breather filter above the battery. No check valve as I’m thinking any oil that manages to get up there can drain back down again. More peace of mind rather than using the flimsy OEM plastic cover.
Hi Ron, I'm new to your channel so thank you for all your great information and the high level of professionalism. I live in Australia and I have a 2020 HD Breakout stage 1. I'm a bit behind the sequence of your later videos but I thought I'd comment on this one as it is relevant and get some thoughts to what I've done. I've vented the crank case with a check vaulve and a catch can and I also had an external breather on and like you have been concerned about lack of vacuum, so I've reconnected just one of the intake breather lines to get some vaccum back into the system and kept the other breather line still going external. Not sure if it's enough vacuum in the system but my intake is clean and seems to give me a bit of both worlds. I cant tell whether it effective or not but I've tried this as the next alternative.
Hey Jeff - thanks so much for the kind words and for the info about your bike and what you've done. Let me know how the bolts look if you give them a check. I've been quite pleased with mine, and the silver bullet is the crankcase vent. As I mentioned, I am working on the vacuum-ported catch can mod and that video will be out in about a month or so. And if you want a sticker send me a DM on Telegram, Instagram or Signal with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
Hey Redneckgearhead Garage - yeah that would be a good comparison. I suspect the crankcase vent eliminates a decent amount of the crud that would end up in the oil.
You said that you would check the amount of vacuum present at the fittings that you plugged up on your intake. Did you measure it? I think a lot of us would like to know just how much vacuum is being created from the throttle body to the breather bolts.
Hey Don - that vacuum nipple on the throttle body pulls about 9" of vacuum at idle. That was the only meaningful vacuum measurement I could get. I also just finished the catch can mod that has vacuum applied to it. That's the next video I'll be posting. It incorporates the crankcase vent, external breather mod,. and the catch can with vacuum,.
How i solved this issue connected the crank case breather bolts to hoses going into a fuel line see thru filter then to a small catch can no more issues of crap going into the intake a very small amount of pocket change
Great video! Crazy I was going to ask how well will external breather mod work with crankcase breather. I want to solve the sumping issue and also don’t want that hot recycled air going back into the engine. Just not sure how having these mods will affect the vacuum
Hey MarvNoGood - yeah that mod I mentioned with the catch can should be good in all respects including vacuum. It could still bring in the crankcase air but after the oil and moisture had been separated, and the air would probably also be cooler after separation. And thanks for the feedback!
Hey Ron I have made some external breather mods to move the recirculating gases out of the intake if you would be interested in seeing some pics of what I did. This is on all stock parts, 2021 FLHTK. Has 2800 miles on it, and yes, the intake throttle body was wet. My last FLHTC I also eliminated the recirculating gas and rode that bike 94k miles and sold it.
Hey Mark - sure, I’d love to see those mods! Send me a DM on Telegram, Instagram or Signal @RonsWorkshop or see below: TH-cam strips out the email address from these comments so I can’t provide it here, but if you visit my “About” page on TH-cam and then click on “View Email Address” you can contact me that way. Note: You have to be logged into TH-cam to see the email address. Here’s a link to the page: th-cam.com/users/RonsWorkshopabout
I like the info made me think but I ride 103 and my cover doesn't allow for venting. But want share I thought for your one way valve. Try using a pcv fitting for a small import 4 clinder car like wrx or Honda. Its a threaded on one side. Thread Trans cover with npt
Hi Ron I have a question I now have derouted the breatherhose out of the airbox now I was wondering does this have a good effect on the intake air temperature IAT sensor located in the airbox as well? As no longer the warm air from the crankcase is getting near the sensor anymore and only cool clean air passes by trough the airfilter ? What do you think ?
First off I’ve watched all your videos and awesome stuff guy, my question to you is I’m looking at venting the top cover of the transmission and I need to know exactly which check valve to get? Have you found the exact one that works? Thank you really appreciate your help.
Hey Jeffrey - thanks for the encouragement! Yes, I’ve found that the Cole-Parmer check valves seem to work well. Solvent resistant materials with low opening pressure. Check the video description on this one for links: th-cam.com/video/U6gOhbRQrwE/w-d-xo.html Let me know if you need more info, and let me know how the project goes.
@@RonsWorkshop ok Ron, gonna get serious here… need details on the whole kit you’re using to vent the trans cover…. Please🙂 never mind, found everything 😉
Hey Jeffrey - check the video description - if you hit “show more” you can see the whole parts list. Let me know if you need more info, and let me know how it goes!
Hey Metalmachine467 - thanks so much for the kind words! And if you want a sticker send me a DM on Telegram, Instagram or Signal with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
Hey Price Heppe - sorry about the delay in responding. I’m not sure how I missed this. I used the Cole-Parmer check valves. I’ve updated the links - let me know if you are able to find them.
Hey Roscoe - I appreciate the kind words! You ask a great question and I believe the answer differs depending on the dealership / service manager / technician. I haven’t heard anyone say it voids the warranty but I’m not sure how many people ask. Let me know what you decide to do and if you learn anything concerning the warranty.
hello Ron, I'm going to go ahead and install the Trask vented transmission cover, I'm not a "wrench", however, it does appear to be easy enough to accomplish, my question is, I have a 2021 Sport Gilde and there is a tube on the side in the way of the cover, do I undo the tube or work around it? not sure what the tube is for? I can always send you a picture, thank you for your help, it's much appreciated!!
Hey Michael - if it’s a little tube about 1/4” or so it’s the transmission vent tube and you’ll transfer that to the Trask cover. If it’s bigger like 3/4” or so it sounds like it could be an oil line. I was able to disconnect the rubber portion of my oil line and work around the metal tube. But it’ll dump oil when you take it off! Let me know if that helps. Feel free to send a pic on Telegram, Instagram or Signal @RonsWorkshop
I have a new to me 2018 Street Glide 117 CVO ... Based on your experiments on venting ... Which one of the many experiments would you recommend that I try?
Hey Christian Labrèche - congrats on the new bike! For venting the crankcase, my favorite solution at this point is the transmission top cover vent (th-cam.com/video/U6gOhbRQrwE/w-d-xo.html). It’s nice and simple and works well. Let me know what you go with!
Hi Ron! I did mine and just used a filer right on the cover, did not use a check valve, thinking that i should. I think your local to me, would love hook up, share mods, ride.. i am in OP, work in Jax, just got a 22 Fat Bob - Keith
Hey Keith - that's a great idea and I'm considering making that change to mine as well. As it turns out, I've relocated to Colorado! Let me know how you like the 22 Fat Bob, and enjoy the ride!
I just bought the 22 lowrider st and I had the first oil change not long ago, and the entire oil was gunked up like mayonnaise, and it got to other areas of it as well. I was told by the techs it was only condensation in the oil and they cleaned up and let me on my way. I continued to have some in my oil as I now kept looking and was told the same thing, and it will ride out when hot. So as I am long legged and hate that stupid air guzzler filter stock on it, I went to change the air filter to a screaming eagle one flat (until I get everything to do a stage two mod) and I noticed the moisture and oil residue in the area. I also saw some oil outside the one breather valve on the right. I asked a lot of people and was told it was normal, or I have head leaks, all kinds of things. I bought the bike being told that the blow by issue was solved and all was ok and normal. I now know better!!! it is not solved and I am EXTREMELY NEW to M8 and even any mechanical work. I am single female and never did anything, but I am really having to learn because in California, they make things even more difficult. Anyway, I see videos everywhere for each type of thing you all are using to solve this issue. I am a bit nervous to try any of these, but I am afraid I will have no choice. So thank you for this information and I am trying to decide which to attempt. I think the catch can sounds like a good idea. Hoping I can do this!! It is terrible how you are not told anything or told incorrect information by Harley Davidson and "mechanics".
Hey LisaKay Hollingsworth - I understand how frustrating that is. I can also relate to the uneasiness of making a mod like this! If you want my .02 worth, the transmission top cover vent is a very effective and simple solution. The catch can is nice but it is more involved. You could always start with the transmission top cover vent and then add the catch can later if you chose too. You may also want to check out my recent video where I reviewed the top four questions I get regarding all of this: th-cam.com/video/JPI3AeMfYeg/w-d-xo.html Let me know how it goes!
Hi Ron, I have been researching this issue for months I have a 2021 144ci road glide. I have been running the A1 dipstick vent for about 3k miles now. I decided to add the trans cover vent. My cover is plastic so I used a 3/8" barbed fitting drilled a 3/8" hole put black rtv and threaded the fitting in the plastic cover using the fitting to self tap the hole. It went in snug. I noticed when at idle there was very low pressure coming out of the hose. I added a filter and took it for a ride. I plan on adding a check valve, do you recommend running the check valve? I didn't have a vac/press gauge to check the amount of pressure and it ran great. Thoughts? Suggestions?
Hey there - yes, I recommend a check valve in case there is a chance for vacuum in the crankcase. I haven’t been able to measure any, but I know it’s beneficial and I prefer to allow for it if it’s there. Let me know how it goes!
I currently am not experiencing any sumping issues, I just upgraded the cam and oil pump with the arlen ness big sucker. Once again I'm having no problems at all, do you think I should do the crank case vent ?
Hey Kenny - You can check for crankcase pressure by removing the dipstick, firing it up, and observing if you have air coming out of the dipstick tube. You can use a plastic bag or balloon…if it inflates you know you’ve got pressure. If you do have pressure it’s probably worth adding a crankcase vent. Let me know what you decide!
Ron, is there any reason why you wouldn't put the check valve after the filter? The filter is to remove the oil, the valve is to release the pressure. Maybe that's not s good idea but interested in your thoughts.
Hey Orange Manstan - thanks for sharing that! My thought is that the pod filter I used only has one inlet. It could be modified, but I’m not sure if the top is rigid enough to support a fitting (meaning it might just pull through). I’m not sure how much it would catch, but it might just be worth trying. Let me know if you give it a shot. And if you want a sticker send me a DM on Telegram, Instagram or Signal with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
@@RonsWorkshop thanks Ron, yes I did think the style of filter you have wouldn't work. I've purchased an in line filter so it has an in and out. I worry about it being too restrictive but it's the same wherever it's placed. Also if it's clogged then the system just reverts back to normal. Hopefully I'll be trying it soon 😁
Yeah that could work! You may need to check it frequently until you get used to what’s normal or determine if you even need to check it. Please do let me know the results :)
Hey Michael - if you check this video description (click "show more" or tap "more...") and scroll down, you'll see a list of parts. Let me know if you need any more info, and let me know how it goes!
Hey Tim - although I haven't worked with the 103, I believe the concepts should transfer over as long as the crankcase configuration is more or less the same. The external breather mod will for sure work with any of them. Let me know if you tackle it, and how it goes!
Hey Jeff - they’re very close, but if you want to allow more airflow you can go with the 5/16”. I’d probably go 5/16” if I did it a second time but either should be fine.
@@RonsWorkshop I have been using the cole palmer check valve already that you have listed, I was just curious if the mini pcv valve worked any better to vent and hold engine vacuum?
I don’t think it would work any better, but it may have a higher opening pressure which would allow more pressure to remain in the crankcase (not desired). It’s worth experimenting with - the goal being to find a mini pcv valve that has a really low opening pressure.
Hi Ron I had a 84 build 1340 FXR and I have made a springoperated one way valve directly mounted on the breather outlet . My goal was to create a sort of vacuüm in the crank case as these big Pistons create crankcase pressure which we dont need when they are going down second goal was preventing outside air sucked into the crankcase when the pistons were going up The result was a noticeable faster acceleration as the pistons had less resistance when going down . I cleaned the valve reguarly and always found some kind of soap in it and in my opinion I prevent with this valve that this stuff stayed inside the crankcase helas I had to sell my beast but I have now a royal enfield classic 500 and I am thinking of making a similar valve on it mostly because this is a longstroke engine as well ....... Chris
Hey Chris - thanks for sharing that approach! And if you want a sticker send me a DM on Telegram, Instagram or Signal with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
@@RonsWorkshop just dipstick I was thinking of a small pcv in hose if I started to leak oil out so far it’s doing great without one just second guessing
Hey Jeff - what year is a the bike? I’ve heard others with that issue but I’m not sure what the cause is. I’m wondering if it’s the old style oil pump and it could be related to that?
That’s worth checking. They didn’t start using the newer oil pump until late 2019. Here’s a link to the HD technical tip: static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2019/MC-10164800-9999.pdf Do you know the history and do you have any sumping symptoms?
Hey Mike - check the video description for a link to the check valve I’m using. I have the 3/16” check valve but you could also go with 1/4” for a bit more flow. Links to both are in the description. Let me know if you need more info.
Thank you for replying so quickly. I am still fumbling my way through TH-cam, I didn’t even realize how to get to the links. Thank you, you are doing awesome on yer channel!
Hey Eric - I had problems with oil blowing out the dipstick filter when I did my own (I'll put a link to that video below). Fueling recommends running less oil, with their vented dipstick, which I don't like. Many people like their solution (but others have oil puking out the filter). I haven't had any problems with oil loss using my transmission top cover vent + check valve, so I'm very happy with that. Does that help? DIY vented dipstick fail: th-cam.com/video/kdAVphpW8wA/w-d-xo.html
@@RonsWorkshop Hey Ron. Just found your channel. Really good stuff. I have a 2021 RKS. I purchased the Freuling vented dipstick and I am about to do my own venting of the breather bolts. I run the SE Ventilator so that mod will be clean and easy. Regarding the dipstick, I'll just note that Freuling recommends keeping the oil between 90% to 95% of full. They also give good instructions on measuring it that HD never specified......which is to be sure to shut off the bike while upright, then put it on the stand and check it hot. If you do that you get a good measurement. At 95% of full you've got plenty of oil in the case and I have not had any issues with excessive oil in the filter. I like the idea of venting the transmission cover, but with as well as the dipstick is working for me, I am happy to stick with it. Thanks for all the work on the channel!
Hey Mitch - thanks for the kind words and for the info about your bike. I’ve heard that about the oil level. I agree - if that solution works for you then stick with it! Be sure to check out this video with some more info about using both vents at the same time: th-cam.com/video/BaG1VdOFe48/w-d-xo.html And if you want a sticker send me a DM on Telegram, Instagram or Signal with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
@@RonsWorkshop Hey Ron. Thanks for that follow up message. I watched a couple of your other videos on the subject. I was also happy to see that you talked to Baxter, because that guy is an expert. So it sounds like running the breather mod along with the vented dipstick would be a mistake. It took me a while to catch on, but I get it now. And doing so it would remove valuable crankcase vacuum that helps prevent the over oiling of the cylinders. That was my big concern to begin with. I saw a pictures and a couple videos of severely fouled pistons after less than 10,000 mi. That is what started this whole search. So again thanks for clearing that up. I'm going to stick with the vented dipstick by itself for now and continue to monitor the air cleaner. 👍👍
Thanks for video Ron. How much oil have u noticed u lost. Did tranny vent & 1st 200 mile trip lost bout 5 ounces. But on way back only bout 1 ounce. Let me kno. Thanks again
Hey Lester - thanks for the kind words! I haven’t really noticed any oil loss. I’ll make a point of checking the level and riding for a few weeks and then checking again to get a good reference. Was yours blowing oil out the pod filter?
Hey Robert - The full parts list is in this video description. You can click “show more” if you’re in a desktop computer or tap “more” if you’re using a mobile device. Let me know if you need more info, and let me know how it goes!
@@RonsWorkshop Hey Ron, I watched the video again and hear the different parts you used to do the job. What I don't see is 'show more" to click to see a listing of the parts you used. The best I can come up with when watching the video is the numbers 836 on the check valve and that didn't help on finding the check valve you used.
Hey Robert - based on your other comment you made have found the link to show the description and parts list. It’s under the title of the video when you tap on it or click on it to watch it.
So far it’s working very well - thanks for the feedback! I feel like there could be a better check valve or PCV valve to use, but it’s definitely good overall.
Hey MrTheDays1 - yes, if it it was a small PCV valve. I’ve been researching and I’ve found one small brass one with 5/16” barbs that has potential and I’d like to test it out at some point: amzn.to/3KhcIor You can also track it down outside of Amazon: bit.ly/3MgLY9A Let me know if you try anything.
@@RonsWorkshop yes I seen this as I was browsing, I just finished your method , I just did a 475 kit swap and new air cleaner, my old stock one was modified with a external breather , so I went your route , it more low profile and hidden
You can finds quite a few different ones. Here's just one example - it''s a bit large, but it should do the job: amzn.to/3Eyk2ZY I'll be working with this one or one similar.
I’m going with three port - 1 inlet for crankcase, 1 inlet for external breather mod (with a Y to join the two lines), and 1 outlet for the vacuum source.
Right, or possible the catch can mod that has vacuum. Based on what I have seen with mine, if choosing just one, I choose the crankcase vent over the external breather mod.
Have you vented your crankcase using the transmission top cover or a vented dipstick? Are you using a check valve? Let me know how it's working and if you have had any surprises along the way.
I want to do a follow up on this project and give a big thank you to Ron for the research and his efforts to make this happen. I did this on my 2019 Street Glide Special and all I can say is wow! Only difference in project is I used 1/4 fittings throughout and it works great. This put an end to the oily crap in my intake (left factory breather hose as is) and made a noticeable difference freeing up HP on the motor. Lastly my oil level finally stays where you put it and doesn’t slowly disappear as you rack up the miles.
Hey Todd - thanks for the kind words and for the project update! That’s awesome! So glad you’ve seen good results.
And if you want a sticker send me a DM on Telegram, Instagram or Signal with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
Back in 1977 I bought a new AMF Sportster 1100. One day at a stop light I had oil run down my right leg from the oil tank. The dealership said that a check valve had malfunctioned that caused the oil to come out of the oil tank. That bike had 3 starters go out and the little plastic peace for the points that rode on the cam had broken off leaving me stranded on the side of the interstate. I traded it in on a used KZ900 LTD. Loved that bike.
Hey Natural For Life - nothing new under the sun, right? With the hassles on the AMF I’m guessing you loved the KZ900? What are you riding these days?
@@RonsWorkshop Well I'm riding a 2017 Street Glide Special, a 2018 Iron 1200, a 2015 Yamaha XT250, a 2021 MT07, and I'm rebuilding a 1971 Triumph T120R old 70's chopper.
Thanks for the updates. I have done crankcase venting by the transmission cover. I have AN Monster Sucker installed without mods. I've done over 2k miles and breathing bolts are looking good. No oil found. My transmission cover vent works with a small filter without one way valve. No issues so far... Greetings from London UK
Hey Mr. B B - thanks for sharing that info! Glad to hear that’s working well.
Greetings from the US! If you want a channel sticker send me a DM on Telegram or Instagram with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
Ok Ron..I did the crankcase vent today. I used all the parts you listed and the install went fine, getting those 6 socket head cap screws out and back in took 90% of the install time. I do have oil dripping from the filter and virtually no oil filling the catch can from the breather bolts so I'm thinking I will switch the filter with the catch can for a bit and then get the breather bolt venting back into the throttle body. Thanks for doing the leg work on this project....still looking forward to the crankcase and breather bolt to the catch can then back to the throttle body. I might beat you to it, I'm trying to find the right catch can. Thanks again Ron.
Hey T Luck - thanks for the update! I’m glad to hear it went smoothly. Keep me posted about the catch can switch.
You may well beat me to the other project. I have the parts spec’ but there are a couple of videos in the hopper before that one. If you do it, let me know how it goes. A three port catch can to look at is the one by PQY Racing - there are several that are all about the same and they are all priced differently. Not sure how the quality is but the viewer that is using one hasn’t had any problems at all.
I didn’t notice any oil blowing out onto my side panel until u did a cam upgrade. U also did the S&s oil pump and plate . I’m doing the vent now . It will be interesting to see if it helps
Hey Runway Golden Retrievers - definitely let me know how goes. I’m very interested to hear.
Hi Ron, I just added the crankcase solution to my bike. I first put the vent hose into a glass of water and it blue bubbles big time, but when I added the check valve almost no bubbles so as of now I'm not using a check valve, What do you think?
In my opinion, after all I’ve tried and learned, the main thing is venting the pressure - the check valve is optional.
@@RonsWorkshop Good to hear, I'm just going to go without the check valve. Keep up the good work I enjoy your videos.
Great help, really appreciated by this green horn wrench buster! Cheers from MT
Glad it was helpful! I hope you’re getting some good riding weather up there. FL is plenty hot and humid already.
On a twin cam I have linked the two rocker box breathers with a T-piece running the third hose to another T that is in a hose that runs from my Dyna’s filler neck, I removed said filler neck so I could drill and tap it for a hose-tail which joins the T along with the hose from the rocker breathers. The 3rd part of the T goes up from the filler neck, through a one-way check valve to a breather filter - it works fine but you must remember to NOT overfill the tank or oil comes out of the breather filter all over the bike which is messy but it’s better than going into your air filer/engine….
I did a similar thing to my ‘06 Sporty and it’s working well there as well.
Great solution! Thanks for sharing the details.
And if you want a sticker send me a DM on Telegram, Instagram or Signal with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
@@RonsWorkshop As a young 62 year old all this IT stuff is a bit beyond me and forgive me for saying that I can live without a sticker (!). I was around and riding before fuel injection.... before vacuum advance and before CV carbs even... plus I am English so I may speak a 'bit funny' for you guys - no offence intended here.
I cut my teeth on the old Brit bikes with points ignition and Amal carbs along with Lucas electrics so all this computer controlled stuff is just nonsense to me. I like to 'hop my bikes up' - the '06 Sporty is now a 1250 (Hammer) with UK ported heads and about 100bhp, my Dyna Streetbob is 113 inch with a 48mm Mikuni and ThunderHeart ignition etc etc and over 130 bhp and torque. I don't know the exact power on either bike as it doen't matter to me - numbers are for accountants, as long as it goes well I don't care.
There are lots of things that computers have left us unable to comprehend as 'it is all done for us' which is a good thing.... until it stops working and then people like me seem so clever. I am not really - I just understand the math and science behind things that kids don't learn today !
No offense taken! I too love the simplicity of older bikes and cars and do still love a well-tuned carburetor!
@@RonsWorkshop Mmmmm yes, and if the carb and ignition are set properly to the mechanical state of tune (compression, cams etc etc) then a good carb can be just as good as fuel injection, but that is quite a trick to master with the way climactic conditions vary - hense the use of EFI and igniton controlled by computer.
I think we are of similar minds - I feel if things are 'over-complicated' then there is just more chance something will go wrong and finding the malfunctioning part can take time and patience. My favourite ride was an old pre-unit Triumph with a magneto and alternator - just a half dozen or so wires and no battery required.... so freakin' simple there was nothing that could go wrong ! Bikes like that old Trumpet may pollute more but by hell was it fun to ride !!!
2:20 mine is touring bike…ebs dk mods…still blowing oil on bike..Drip can captures water and what I call Buffalo snot ( foamed oil)…seems related to condensation in crankcase…except for oil blown on bike.
Hey Robert - yes, I think the buffalo snot is normal as condensation forms in the crankcase and mixes with the oil vapor. You might want to add a crankcase vent. th-cam.com/video/JPI3AeMfYeg/w-d-xo.html
Ron, for you and your viewers who are running the OEM breather system, using a certified TOP TIER gasoline exclusively is a good idea, I believe. This may already be common knowledge, but I haven't seen it referenced in your videos so I thought I'd contribute. TOP TIER doesn't pertain to octane rating, the fuel has to incorporate a cleaning additive package to meet certification standards. That helps continuously clean the combustion chamber of excess carbon deposits, just like adding Techron.
Hey bavedoyd - interesting point. In my case, with Stage III, I have to use 93 octane and I always use a "brand name" fuel and not the cheap/off-brands. Thanks for sharing that! If anyone else has ever tested different fuels, drop in your findings.
I have been running an external breather on my 2018 M8 107 and have been unhappy with that gunk fouling the catch can. I've done a S&S cam chest to help prevent any sumping and am getting reading to do your mod with the crankcase vent but was worried about the vacuum....waiting to see how your next mod works....thanks for the vids.
Hey T Luck - thanks for the kind words! How do you like the S&S upgrade? It’ll be a little while before I can get to that catch can project but it’s definitely on the list right after the current projects.
If you want a channel sticker send me a DM on Telegram or Instagram with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
@@RonsWorkshop The upgrade was a fun project but took a bit longer than I wanted..I had to upgrade from a FP3 tuner to a Dynojet Powervision tuner. All is well! BTW I did the 465c cam due to availability at the time.
Very nice!
Ron I was wondering your thoughts using a PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) valve style like on a car, I was an auto mechanic back in the day. I have seen them threaded on one end but it was plastic not good for high heat applications.
That’s an option for sure - I think if you went with one for a small import car it would be a small enough version and have low opening threshold. Let me know if you try one!
Love to see a step by step to make your venting solution
Hey Ken - you can see everything on this video: th-cam.com/video/U6gOhbRQrwE/w-d-xo.html
Let me know if you give it a try!
Man thank you for all you do, these are great videos and information. Really really enjoy them.
Also waiting to see your video on the rain sock and getting caught in a downpour. Living Tallahassee Fl I’ve been dreading getting caught in a thunderstorm, I just installed a Screaming Eagle extreme intake and I finally found a rain sock but haven’t had to use it, yet.
Again really enjoy your videos
Thanks so much for the kind words! Yeah the rain sock is a requirement for me since that day. I was amazed. I think that’s maybe the third video away in the lineup. I’m in Jacksonville by the way. I’ve ridden bicycles a lot in Tallahassee. I’m sure moto riding is great on all those hilly backroads!
I wonder if not using a hose and just mounting the filter on top of the cover works better at relieving pressure & moisture
I believe that would work just fine. But you might get some oil residue.
Thanks for the video’s very informative and learning new things every time I visit TH-cam! I recently bought my first Harley 2018 fat bob 107 and came across these videos and wondered if I would still have this problem with the set up that I have on mine when I got it. It’s just a vent on the transmission box. Just a hose with a J bend. Guess I’ll try a few things to see if everything is working as it should.
Hey Marcel - thanks for the kind words! I suspect what you’re seeing is the little vent hose that allows the transmission compartment to breathe. Under that cover there are three compartments. Two of them are vented together and that’s where the rubber hose is. The other one goes to the crankcase and is not vented. Check out my playlist and look for the video about the transmission top cover for all the details:
M8 Crankcase Venting, Pressure, and Sumping Playlist:
th-cam.com/video/BaG1VdOFe48/w-d-xo.html
Let me know if that helps. And if you want a channel sticker send me a DM on Telegram or Instagram with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
I’m using the stock breather bolts with a hose to a catch can rather then the Harley hose to the throttle body. Just got my check valve in the mail. Couldn’t get the same spec ones that you use so hopefully the type I got work ok
Hey Nathan - let me know how that check valve works out and which one it is. Mine works well but I’m always looking for options.
Very nice, clean, explicit video...love the way we can follow your projects with good or bad side. I've just bought a Heritage 2022 and I dont like the oil returning in the intake but my bike will have a S&S Stealth Air Stinger filter and I dont want to mess up any parts or have more hoses hanging everywhere. So if I vent the crankcase I will have not all but lots less oil build up to breathing bolts and returning into carb right? Thanks
Hey LaMediatech - thanks for the kind words! Yes, that's what I would expect (noticeably reduced oil at the intake after venting the crankcase). You could always do that as a first step, and then evaluate things from there. Let me know what you decide, and how it goes!
And if you want a sticker send me a DM on Telegram, Instagram or Signal with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
ok I was looking closer and found a maybe check value that could be used the specs: 3/8" one way check valve made of aluminum alloy and 304 stainless steel spring.
Min upstream pressure:0.2bar(2.9psi),working pressure range: 0.2-6bar (2.9-87psi),operating temperature range: -22℉ to 266℉.
I'm wondering if the working pressure range is compatable to this application with the Transmission top cover vent?
Well, the ones I settled on have a breaking pressure is 0.18 psi. That’s the one thing I had trouble with for the other valves I tried - the opening pressure was significantly higher. I didn’t measure them, but rather I’d blow through them to judge the resistance. And o finally found the Cole-Parmer units that have worked well.
I did some digging and found out that the previous supplier no longer carries the check valves, but there is a new supplier. The drawback is they only seem to sell them in packs of 6. Here’s a link to what I found: bit.ly/3GxGyGQ
Other check valves may work fine, but the lowest possible opening pressure is definitely beneficial.
Let me know if that helps at all…
@@RonsWorkshop Thanks for the information on the 0.18 psi check valve. I order them. I'll have to wait till the spring comes to try them out. I have my Limited stored at the Appleton Harley Dealer. I looked at the Trask transmission top cover. It's cool; however, the brass fitting, check valve, hose along with clamps will be a much more cost effective way to go. Using the Trask would be an issue if I wanted to blow out the check valve installed on it.
Sounds good! The Trask piece is very nice but cost and budget definitely come into play. Very well designed and it seems to work well based on what I’ve heard. But yes, for a few bucks and not much more time you can easily do it yourself. Let me know how it goes!!
And if you want a sticker send me a DM on Telegram, Instagram or Signal with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
thanks Ron, I think it's the oil line
Ok - let me know how it goes.
I like the idea of crankcase vacuum for seals and removing air entrainment in the oil. The entrainment isn't a big deal because it vaporizes under normal conditions, but still.
Not a fan of applying vacuum to the catch can.
Hey Greenmachine305 - yeah, applying vacuum to the catch can proved to be a bit of a pain, but there are ways to make it work.
Instead of removing the crank sensor, you should also have a sump plug that you can remove from the bottom of your engine case to easily drain and measure your sump engine oil volume.
Cycle Solutions sells drain plugs with extremely strong magnets that you can re-install the next time you drain 4 fluids.(They have the magnetic drain plugs for your engine oil, transmission, primary, and sump.) My 2018 M8 had 16 oz. of engine sump oil that drained out when we removed the sump plug. My suspicion is leaking piston oiler jets. I’ve already got all of the crankcase breathers, S&S cam plate and oil pump. It won’t be fixed until the next engine rebuild with a big bore kit.
Hey Brian - thanks for sharing that info! I’ll do some research on that as well. I’ve got the guidelines for how much oil is “acceptable” when pulling the crank sensor, but the range would be different for the plug you mention. I’ll still pull the cranks sensor, but will likely also tackle the other one in separate video.
Sounds like that next engine build will be fun! But I hope you get plenty of good miles before you have to rebuild it, or at least enough good miles until you decide to rebuild it!
Hi Ron and thanks for your videos. I need to do something. I’ve tried external venting the breather bolts and I’ve tried a vented dip stick and I’ve tried them both together…nothing has worked. In fact, I actually seem to get the least blow-by in the intake from the stock setup. I’ve no idea why.
I’m getting ready to try this transmission cover/crankcase vent mod on my 2017 Road King.
Hey John - thanks for the kind words! That is very strange. How did you do the breather bolt mod? That should eliminate all of the oil from the intake. But the vented dipstick would alleviate crankcase pressure. In my most recent video I covered a couple of points pertinent to this: th-cam.com/video/JPI3AeMfYeg/w-d-xo.html
thank you for the great content. Did you try the new configuration with the catch can you described at 5:00?
Hey Angel - thanks for the kind words! I’m working on that project now. There’s one video in the lineup ahead of it. I’ll let you know when I post it and I’ll link it at that point in the video and in the description as well.
And if you want a sticker send me a DM on Telegram, Instagram or Signal with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
Very nice , thank you Ron
Absolutely!
I bought a cheap CNC machined aluminium cover off Amazon, then drilled and tapped it for a 3/8 hose fitting with the hose running up into a breather filter above the battery.
No check valve as I’m thinking any oil that manages to get up there can drain back down again.
More peace of mind rather than using the flimsy OEM plastic cover.
Hey James - thanks for sharing that solution! I didn’t know aftermarket aluminum top covers were available!
Thanks for all your videos 🙏🏻
Hey Jp - my pleasure! If you do this check let me know how it goes.
Hi Ron, I'm new to your channel so thank you for all your great information and the high level of professionalism. I live in Australia and I have a 2020 HD Breakout stage 1. I'm a bit behind the sequence of your later videos but I thought I'd comment on this one as it is relevant and get some thoughts to what I've done. I've vented the crank case with a check vaulve and a catch can and I also had an external breather on and like you have been concerned about lack of vacuum, so I've reconnected just one of the intake breather lines to get some vaccum back into the system and kept the other breather line still going external. Not sure if it's enough vacuum in the system but my intake is clean and seems to give me a bit of both worlds. I cant tell whether it effective or not but I've tried this as the next alternative.
Hey Jeff - thanks so much for the kind words and for the info about your bike and what you've done. Let me know how the bolts look if you give them a check. I've been quite pleased with mine, and the silver bullet is the crankcase vent. As I mentioned, I am working on the vacuum-ported catch can mod and that video will be out in about a month or so.
And if you want a sticker send me a DM on Telegram, Instagram or Signal with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
I'd like to see an oil sample test from stock to vented. Pulling contamination out is part of the reason for this system.
Hey Redneckgearhead Garage - yeah that would be a good comparison. I suspect the crankcase vent eliminates a decent amount of the crud that would end up in the oil.
You said that you would check the amount of vacuum present at the fittings that you plugged up on your intake. Did you measure it? I think a lot of us would like to know just how much vacuum is being created from the throttle body to the breather bolts.
Hey Don - that vacuum nipple on the throttle body pulls about 9" of vacuum at idle. That was the only meaningful vacuum measurement I could get. I also just finished the catch can mod that has vacuum applied to it. That's the next video I'll be posting. It incorporates the crankcase vent, external breather mod,. and the catch can with vacuum,.
How i solved this issue connected the crank case breather bolts to hoses going into a fuel line see thru filter then to a small catch can no more issues of crap going into the intake a very small amount of pocket change
Hey Eddie - thanks for sharing your solution! Sounds like it’s working well.
Great video! Crazy I was going to ask how well will external breather mod work with crankcase breather. I want to solve the sumping issue and also don’t want that hot recycled air going back into the engine. Just not sure how having these mods will affect the vacuum
Hey MarvNoGood - yeah that mod I mentioned with the catch can should be good in all respects including vacuum. It could still bring in the crankcase air but after the oil and moisture had been separated, and the air would probably also be cooler after separation. And thanks for the feedback!
Hey Ron
I have made some external breather mods to move the recirculating gases out of the intake if you would be interested in seeing some pics of what I did. This is on all stock parts, 2021 FLHTK. Has 2800 miles on it, and yes, the intake throttle body was wet. My last FLHTC I also eliminated the recirculating gas and rode that bike 94k miles and sold it.
Hey Mark - sure, I’d love to see those mods! Send me a DM on Telegram, Instagram or Signal @RonsWorkshop or see below:
TH-cam strips out the email address from these comments so I can’t provide it here, but if you visit my “About” page on TH-cam and then click on “View Email Address” you can contact me that way. Note: You have to be logged into TH-cam to see the email address. Here’s a link to the page: th-cam.com/users/RonsWorkshopabout
I like the info made me think but I ride 103 and my cover doesn't allow for venting.
But want share I thought for your one way valve.
Try using a pcv fitting for a small import 4 clinder car like wrx or Honda. Its a threaded on one side. Thread Trans cover with npt
Hey Scooter Bright - yes, that’s definitely viable. Low opening pressure is a key factor as well, regardless of the valve chosen.
Hi Ron I have a question I now have derouted the breatherhose out of the airbox now I was wondering does this have a good effect on the intake air temperature IAT sensor located in the airbox as well? As no longer the warm air from the crankcase is getting near the sensor anymore and only cool clean air passes by trough the airfilter ? What do you think ?
Hey Chris - I think that would be the case. It won't change the air temp by much, but any lowering of the intake charge temperature is a good thing.
Thanks Ron
First off I’ve watched all your videos and awesome stuff guy, my question to you is I’m looking at venting the top cover of the transmission and I need to know exactly which check valve to get? Have you found the exact one that works? Thank you really appreciate your help.
Hey Jeffrey - thanks for the encouragement! Yes, I’ve found that the Cole-Parmer check valves seem to work well. Solvent resistant materials with low opening pressure. Check the video description on this one for links: th-cam.com/video/U6gOhbRQrwE/w-d-xo.html
Let me know if you need more info, and let me know how the project goes.
@@RonsWorkshop ok Ron, gonna get serious here… need details on the whole kit you’re using to vent the trans cover…. Please🙂 never mind, found everything 😉
Hey Jeffrey - check the video description - if you hit “show more” you can see the whole parts list. Let me know if you need more info, and let me know how it goes!
@@RonsWorkshop yup, that’s what I did….. 🤪
Ron does ant type of external venting impact engine vacuum?
No, it doesn’t affect engine vacuum.
I've copied you step by step and learned from your research thank you
Hey Metalmachine467 - thanks so much for the kind words!
And if you want a sticker send me a DM on Telegram, Instagram or Signal with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
What check valve did you end up using? Because the one you have listed says untested
Hey Price Heppe - sorry about the delay in responding. I’m not sure how I missed this. I used the Cole-Parmer check valves. I’ve updated the links - let me know if you are able to find them.
Awesome videos and research. Thank you sir. I have a 2021 RGS and if I did this modification, would it affect my warranty?
Hey Roscoe - I appreciate the kind words! You ask a great question and I believe the answer differs depending on the dealership / service manager / technician. I haven’t heard anyone say it voids the warranty but I’m not sure how many people ask. Let me know what you decide to do and if you learn anything concerning the warranty.
hello Ron, I'm going to go ahead and install the Trask vented transmission cover, I'm not a "wrench", however, it does appear to be easy enough to accomplish, my question is, I have a 2021 Sport Gilde and there is a tube on the side in the way of the cover, do I undo the tube or work around it? not sure what the tube is for? I can always send you a picture, thank you for your help, it's much appreciated!!
Hey Michael - if it’s a little tube about 1/4” or so it’s the transmission vent tube and you’ll transfer that to the Trask cover. If it’s bigger like 3/4” or so it sounds like it could be an oil line. I was able to disconnect the rubber portion of my oil line and work around the metal tube. But it’ll dump oil when you take it off! Let me know if that helps. Feel free to send a pic on Telegram, Instagram or Signal @RonsWorkshop
I have a new to me 2018 Street Glide 117 CVO ... Based on your experiments on venting ... Which one of the many experiments would you recommend that I try?
Hey Christian Labrèche - congrats on the new bike! For venting the crankcase, my favorite solution at this point is the transmission top cover vent (th-cam.com/video/U6gOhbRQrwE/w-d-xo.html). It’s nice and simple and works well.
Let me know what you go with!
Hi Ron! I did mine and just used a filer right on the cover, did not use a check valve, thinking that i should. I think your local to me, would love hook up, share mods, ride.. i am in OP, work in Jax, just got a 22 Fat Bob - Keith
Hey Keith - that's a great idea and I'm considering making that change to mine as well. As it turns out, I've relocated to Colorado! Let me know how you like the 22 Fat Bob, and enjoy the ride!
I just bought the 22 lowrider st and I had the first oil change not long ago, and the entire oil was gunked up like mayonnaise, and it got to other areas of it as well. I was told by the techs it was only condensation in the oil and they cleaned up and let me on my way. I continued to have some in my oil as I now kept looking and was told the same thing, and it will ride out when hot. So as I am long legged and hate that stupid air guzzler filter stock on it, I went to change the air filter to a screaming eagle one flat (until I get everything to do a stage two mod) and I noticed the moisture and oil residue in the area. I also saw some oil outside the one breather valve on the right. I asked a lot of people and was told it was normal, or I have head leaks, all kinds of things. I bought the bike being told that the blow by issue was solved and all was ok and normal. I now know better!!! it is not solved and I am EXTREMELY NEW to M8 and even any mechanical work. I am single female and never did anything, but I am really having to learn because in California, they make things even more difficult. Anyway, I see videos everywhere for each type of thing you all are using to solve this issue. I am a bit nervous to try any of these, but I am afraid I will have no choice. So thank you for this information and I am trying to decide which to attempt. I think the catch can sounds like a good idea. Hoping I can do this!! It is terrible how you are not told anything or told incorrect information by Harley Davidson and "mechanics".
Hey LisaKay Hollingsworth - I understand how frustrating that is. I can also relate to the uneasiness of making a mod like this! If you want my .02 worth, the transmission top cover vent is a very effective and simple solution. The catch can is nice but it is more involved. You could always start with the transmission top cover vent and then add the catch can later if you chose too. You may also want to check out my recent video where I reviewed the top four questions I get regarding all of this: th-cam.com/video/JPI3AeMfYeg/w-d-xo.html
Let me know how it goes!
Hi Ron, I have been researching this issue for months I have a 2021 144ci road glide. I have been running the A1 dipstick vent for about 3k miles now. I decided to add the trans cover vent. My cover is plastic so I used a 3/8" barbed fitting drilled a 3/8" hole put black rtv and threaded the fitting in the plastic cover using the fitting to self tap the hole. It went in snug. I noticed when at idle there was very low pressure coming out of the hose. I added a filter and took it for a ride. I plan on adding a check valve, do you recommend running the check valve? I didn't have a vac/press gauge to check the amount of pressure and it ran great. Thoughts? Suggestions?
Hey there - yes, I recommend a check valve in case there is a chance for vacuum in the crankcase. I haven’t been able to measure any, but I know it’s beneficial and I prefer to allow for it if it’s there.
Let me know how it goes!
I currently am not experiencing any sumping issues, I just upgraded the cam and oil pump with the arlen ness big sucker. Once again I'm having no problems at all, do you think I should do the crank case vent ?
Hey Kenny - You can check for crankcase pressure by removing the dipstick, firing it up, and observing if you have air coming out of the dipstick tube. You can use a plastic bag or balloon…if it inflates you know you’ve got pressure. If you do have pressure it’s probably worth adding a crankcase vent. Let me know what you decide!
Ron, is there any reason why you wouldn't put the check valve after the filter? The filter is to remove the oil, the valve is to release the pressure. Maybe that's not s good idea but interested in your thoughts.
Hey Orange Manstan - thanks for sharing that! My thought is that the pod filter I used only has one inlet. It could be modified, but I’m not sure if the top is rigid enough to support a fitting (meaning it might just pull through). I’m not sure how much it would catch, but it might just be worth trying. Let me know if you give it a shot.
And if you want a sticker send me a DM on Telegram, Instagram or Signal with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
@@RonsWorkshop thanks Ron, yes I did think the style of filter you have wouldn't work. I've purchased an in line filter so it has an in and out. I worry about it being too restrictive but it's the same wherever it's placed. Also if it's clogged then the system just reverts back to normal. Hopefully I'll be trying it soon 😁
Yeah that could work! You may need to check it frequently until you get used to what’s normal or determine if you even need to check it.
Please do let me know the results :)
I am interested in doing the venting on my transmission cover. Where did you get you parts?
Hey Michael - if you check this video description (click "show more" or tap "more...") and scroll down, you'll see a list of parts. Let me know if you need any more info, and let me know how it goes!
Will this crankcase venting work on a 103 as well to eliminate oil getting into the intake?
Hey Tim - although I haven't worked with the 103, I believe the concepts should transfer over as long as the crankcase configuration is more or less the same. The external breather mod will for sure work with any of them. Let me know if you tackle it, and how it goes!
is the 5/16” Mini PCV Valve* better than the 1/4” Cole-Parmer Check Valve*?
Hey Jeff - they’re very close, but if you want to allow more airflow you can go with the 5/16”. I’d probably go 5/16” if I did it a second time but either should be fine.
@@RonsWorkshop I have been using the cole palmer check valve already that you have listed, I was just curious if the mini pcv valve worked any better to vent and hold engine vacuum?
I don’t think it would work any better, but it may have a higher opening pressure which would allow more pressure to remain in the crankcase (not desired). It’s worth experimenting with - the goal being to find a mini pcv valve that has a really low opening pressure.
Hi Ron I had a 84 build 1340 FXR and I have made a springoperated one way valve directly mounted on the breather outlet . My goal was to create a sort of vacuüm in the crank case as these big Pistons create crankcase pressure which we dont need when they are going down second goal was preventing outside air sucked into the crankcase when the pistons were going up The result was a noticeable faster acceleration as the pistons had less resistance when going down . I cleaned the valve reguarly and always found some kind of soap in it and in my opinion I prevent with this valve that this stuff stayed inside the crankcase helas I had to sell my beast but I have now a royal enfield classic 500 and I am thinking of making a similar valve on it mostly because this is a longstroke engine as well ....... Chris
Hey Chris - thanks for sharing that approach!
And if you want a sticker send me a DM on Telegram, Instagram or Signal with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
I am thinking of a small pvc valve ,have a a1 dipstick
Hey Steven - do you also have the crankcase vent? I don’t recall if the A1 dipstick has any sort of check valve in it.
@@RonsWorkshop just dipstick I was thinking of a small pcv in hose if I started to leak oil out so far it’s doing great without one just second guessing
Well it wouldn’t hurt and it’s easy enough to do. If you decide to do it lol how it goes.
Did wife's M8 lots of oil coming out of hose. Any ideas?
Hey Jeff - what year is a the bike? I’ve heard others with that issue but I’m not sure what the cause is. I’m wondering if it’s the old style oil pump and it could be related to that?
@@RonsWorkshop 2018 Road King
That’s worth checking. They didn’t start using the newer oil pump until late 2019. Here’s a link to the HD technical tip:
static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2019/MC-10164800-9999.pdf
Do you know the history and do you have any sumping symptoms?
Ron, I don’t see what type of check valve that is that u are using. What type/size/brand is that check valve?
Hey Mike - check the video description for a link to the check valve I’m using. I have the 3/16” check valve but you could also go with 1/4” for a bit more flow. Links to both are in the description. Let me know if you need more info.
Thank you for replying so quickly. I am still fumbling my way through TH-cam, I didn’t even realize how to get to the links. Thank you, you are doing awesome on yer channel!
Ok, glad you found the links. Let me know if I can help with anything else. Thanks for the kind words!
What brand of check valve did you use? Thx
Hey Gary - they’ve rebranded but this link should take you to their page: bit.ly/3Pb5BE2
@@RonsWorkshop thank you very much
Hi Ron.. do you find the crank case venting is worth the extra effort vs the dip stick venting?
Hey Eric - I had problems with oil blowing out the dipstick filter when I did my own (I'll put a link to that video below). Fueling recommends running less oil, with their vented dipstick, which I don't like. Many people like their solution (but others have oil puking out the filter). I haven't had any problems with oil loss using my transmission top cover vent + check valve, so I'm very happy with that. Does that help?
DIY vented dipstick fail: th-cam.com/video/kdAVphpW8wA/w-d-xo.html
@@RonsWorkshop thanks Ron.. it does.. thanks again
@@RonsWorkshop Hey Ron. Just found your channel. Really good stuff. I have a 2021 RKS. I purchased the Freuling vented dipstick and I am about to do my own venting of the breather bolts. I run the SE Ventilator so that mod will be clean and easy. Regarding the dipstick, I'll just note that Freuling recommends keeping the oil between 90% to 95% of full. They also give good instructions on measuring it that HD never specified......which is to be sure to shut off the bike while upright, then put it on the stand and check it hot. If you do that you get a good measurement. At 95% of full you've got plenty of oil in the case and I have not had any issues with excessive oil in the filter. I like the idea of venting the transmission cover, but with as well as the dipstick is working for me, I am happy to stick with it. Thanks for all the work on the channel!
Hey Mitch - thanks for the kind words and for the info about your bike. I’ve heard that about the oil level. I agree - if that solution works for you then stick with it! Be sure to check out this video with some more info about using both vents at the same time: th-cam.com/video/BaG1VdOFe48/w-d-xo.html
And if you want a sticker send me a DM on Telegram, Instagram or Signal with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
@@RonsWorkshop Hey Ron. Thanks for that follow up message. I watched a couple of your other videos on the subject. I was also happy to see that you talked to Baxter, because that guy is an expert. So it sounds like running the breather mod along with the vented dipstick would be a mistake. It took me a while to catch on, but I get it now. And doing so it would remove valuable crankcase vacuum that helps prevent the over oiling of the cylinders. That was my big concern to begin with. I saw a pictures and a couple videos of severely fouled pistons after less than 10,000 mi. That is what started this whole search. So again thanks for clearing that up. I'm going to stick with the vented dipstick by itself for now and continue to monitor the air cleaner. 👍👍
Thanks for video Ron. How much oil have u noticed u lost. Did tranny vent & 1st 200 mile trip lost bout 5 ounces. But on way back only bout 1 ounce. Let me kno. Thanks again
Hey Lester - thanks for the kind words! I haven’t really noticed any oil loss. I’ll make a point of checking the level and riding for a few weeks and then checking again to get a good reference. Was yours blowing oil out the pod filter?
@@RonsWorkshop ya
I have the ss 124 power kit w 550 c also . May be y lost that much but didnt seem right.
I’ve never seen any drips or residue on the pod filter, but I’m interested to note the level and do a close check.
@@RonsWorkshop 10/4. Stay safe. N thanks again for vids n info. Great job
what check valve did you use?
Hey Robert - The full parts list is in this video description. You can click “show more” if you’re in a desktop computer or tap “more” if you’re using a mobile device. Let me know if you need more info, and let me know how it goes!
@@RonsWorkshop Hey Ron, I watched the video again and hear the different parts you used to do the job. What I don't see is 'show more" to click to see a listing of the parts you used. The best I can come up with when watching the video is the numbers 836 on the check valve and that didn't help on finding the check valve you used.
Hey Robert - based on your other comment you made have found the link to show the description and parts list. It’s under the title of the video when you tap on it or click on it to watch it.
This way is better than the Trask solution, makes servicing the check valve a breeze
So far it’s working very well - thanks for the feedback! I feel like there could be a better check valve or PCV valve to use, but it’s definitely good overall.
@@RonsWorkshop I was thinking the same on a pcv valve of a car?
Hey MrTheDays1 - yes, if it it was a small PCV valve. I’ve been researching and I’ve found one small brass one with 5/16” barbs that has potential and I’d like to test it out at some point: amzn.to/3KhcIor
You can also track it down outside of Amazon: bit.ly/3MgLY9A
Let me know if you try anything.
@@RonsWorkshop yes I seen this as I was browsing, I just finished your method , I just did a 475 kit swap and new air cleaner, my old stock one was modified with a external breather , so I went your route , it more low profile and hidden
@@MrTheDays1 That's great! Let me know how you like it once you log some miles.
Where do you get that catch can that has the vacuum
You can finds quite a few different ones. Here's just one example - it''s a bit large, but it should do the job: amzn.to/3Eyk2ZY I'll be working with this one or one similar.
@@RonsWorkshop 2 port or 3 port one? Also what about heavy breather using this 2 port out one side back in the another side?
I’m going with three port - 1 inlet for crankcase, 1 inlet for external breather mod (with a Y to join the two lines), and 1 outlet for the vacuum source.
Not sure about the heavy breather mod - don’t quite understand that.
So do one or the other
Right, or possible the catch can mod that has vacuum. Based on what I have seen with mine, if choosing just one, I choose the crankcase vent over the external breather mod.
@@RonsWorkshop why is that crankcase vs breather
It retains the crankcase vacuum.