After the failed vented dipstick project, I have a great venting solution that uses the transmission top cover, including a check valve -- Although I am debating whether or not that's necessary. Let me know if you've tried anything like this, and if you have any facts about whether or not a vacuum in the crankcase is needed (for pulling oil down?). Do you have any other ideas to make this a better solution?
Hey Paul - thanks for sharing that. I’ll definitely check out his video. I’ve heard the same thing about venting both and removing the vacuum. I plan to do some tests on mine to see what I can determine.
@paul wichert bought all the parts to do it just skeptical if the softails even need the trans vented. Got a 21 heritage 114 stage 1 any ideas fellas? Should I just let it roll or just go for it and why would I do this 😆
Hey Tyler - blow-by is the main thing that is addressed. Venting the crankcase will greatly reduce (possibly eliminate) the blow-by whereas a breather mod will just route the blow-by oil and gasses away from the intake so they don’t get sucked in and end up on top of the pistons. Not sure if they’ve done anything with the 2021 models to address this. Also note that I originally did both mods to my bike, but I’m about to post a follow up video with some updates. Some say doing both is a problem but I’m still unable to get verifiable info on this. I’ll share more in the follow up video. Hope that helps.
As a first time HD owner, there’s a lot of info out there about this issue, all of it is confusing. This channel and this video was the most helpful for me. Thanks for the content.
id say that the check valve idea is when your open throttle it can cause vacume in intake and pull the vapor from the heads? but i guess if they are also disconnected leaving it open would be fine. ill be doing this mod and leaving it open for sure as some checkvalves have to reach a certain pressure to open. id rather just have it open to air :)
That's an option for sure. Let me know how it goes! Just make sure you have a pod filter or some filter if you leave it open., just to make sure nothing can get pulled in.
Hi Ron, thanks for this! I have been investigating the crankcase venting issue for the M8 for several weeks, trying to decide what to do with my 2018 Sport Glide. Your solution makes the most sense to me out of all the other ideas I have come across, and I am going to implement your fix. I enjoy getting my hands dirty, and installing a fix for a known issue on my bike is very appealing. Thanks for your research and labor in getting this together. Off to the garage!
Hey Charles - thanks for the feedback! Let me know how it goes. If you want a channel sticker send me a DM on Telegram or Instagram with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
Great video and instructions. I had a Trask on an 18 CVO SG with an S&S oil pump. the Trask dumped oil out the breather! called Trask and was informed that my Gen1 oil pump (without o-ring between pump and case) will do that but, after adding a vented dip stick I was able to release the Trask trany vent. Also noted H-D added this o-ring on mid 2019 and up. So if you fall into this category, do vent at the trany cover. My 2022 FXLRST will get the trans cover and head venting DYI. I believe that the vacuum keeps the rings seated to the cylinder walls on decel. copied from a major Mfg. bulletin. On 2019 and earlier M8 motorcycles, there is NO seal between the oil pump body and the crankcase, inside the cam chest. H-D incorporated the seal in late 2019*. This seal prevents pressure from the crankcase pushing into the cam chest through the pinion bearing.
Hey Jeff - thanks for the kind words and for sharing that info! And if you want a sticker send me a DM on Telegram, Instagram or Signal with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
I got this put in today! I used the red loctite with the removable nut top side so there's no possibility of the nut falling down. Bike runs much smoother and revs faster. Thanks for sharing how to do this! I trimmed the bottom barb so it wouldn't hit the casing below with a hacksaw. This vent works great! Went with the 1/4" stainless fittings.
Hey JJ - thanks for the kind words and for sharing the info about your project! I can feel a performance difference as well. And if you want a sticker send me a DM on Telegram, Instagram or Signal with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
Oh well, my husband and I say you are always welcome to come up. I would like to keep my bike in better than stock condition, it is also a stage 1. Reinhardt slip on's and a Screaming Eagle oval air cleaner and the Screaming Eagle tuner/programmer.
For anyone doing this mod, Trask released a info letter stating that if your bike DOES NOT have the oil pump with the seal against the crank bearing side, you will probably have oil puking out of the vent hose. The seals stops the crankcase pressure from migrating into the cam chest.
This is absolutely true! I have a 2017 M8 touring bike that I did this mod on, and it puked about 6 oz of oil out on a 500 mile road trip. I had to close it back off and spend some time cleaning the oil that spattered all over my engine and exhaust. Pretty disappointing to say the least, but the bike definitely ran better with the venting in place. I didn't want to have to change the oil pump, but looks like that's the only solution to the cam chest pressure problem...
Thank you for the tip. How do I determine what type of oil pump is on my 2021 Sport Glide? (Sorry, I've owned and worked on around 70 bikes in my time, but this is my first HD!)
You and me both - it’s my first Harley as well :) Here’s a link to the HD technical tip bulletin about the oil pump. Based on the bulletin, any bikes 2020 and later (and some late 2019 bikes) should have the improved pump: static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2019/MC-10164800-9999.pdf
Just did this to my 19 heritage over the wknd. Took about 30 mins. Ball end Allen sockets save a lot of time. Great video. I have the A1 cycles dipstick on my Road glide special but am considering doing this to it as well. The heritage doesn't make half the air pressure that the RGS does. I've also got both vented at the breather as well. I did not do the check valve as you did. I didn't really see a need to. I placed the end of the tube in a plastic bag and never got any vacuum at all. The bag kept getting larger so I'm not sure of the vacuum that some are speaking of. Again great video!
Hey Timberjkd - thanks for sharing your results and also for the feedback! I like your creative approach to testing for testing the vacuum and the ball-end allens are a great tip. If you want a channel sticker send me a DM on Telegram or Instagram with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
I went to ACE and bought a small 90* BrassElbow = 2-3$ with conical thread, went home and did what you did but I drilled a hole and then used a NPT Tap to make a thread in the Top Cover. Gave the Brass Elbow some Red Loctite…screwed it in and mounted a nice black hose with a quality Crank Case filter and put it exactly where you did. Works just perfect !
Hey Christoffer Lunoe - that’s great! Thanks for sharing that information. Is your top cover metal? Mine is plastic so I don’t trust it with just NPT threads.
Hi all, I think an automotive style PCV valve with a 90 degree connector is the way to go. Then run the hose down under bike with a filter or catch can. There will be oil trapped above the fitting if you go straight up from the cover since the vapors will contain oil and eventually clog it up. In an automotive style setup the pcv is attached to the vacuum side of air intake to eliminate the oil residue. Great video btw, good info.
Hey William - thank you for the kind words and for the input! I agree an automotive PCV valve could be a good option - the important point in my opinion is to get one with a very low opening pressure. Maybe one for a small import?
So typical Harley. If it were my car with a crank case vent issue there’d be a recall covering it under warranty, with HD we get to find our own solutions. Thanks for the video. I’ll seriously consider doing this myself.
Hey Chris - yeah, good point. If you tackle it let me know how it goes. If you want a channel sticker send me a DM on Telegram or Instagram with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
@@RonsWorkshop i need to ask if putting a hole in the case will give them an excuse to deny the warranty. If that’s not an issue I’ll start ordering parts, and a toolbox sticker. :-D
@@chrissmith7669 Hmmm...not sure on that one. I just had mine in for warranty service, but I'm sure they did not see the mod since it is not really visible. If you ask it may raise a flag. I think it also depends on the individual dealer and how picky they are.
Great work, Ron! My bike is a 2022 RGS. It has an SE HO oill pump and 122 kit with 447 cam. Before the build, I had horrible problems with blow by. I did the vent to atmosphere breathers and vented dip stick and these served allow oil to be blown all over the bike. After the 122 kit and new oil pump, I was advised by the builder not to do the vented dip stick but that the breather vents were OK. Well, it seems the motor was over-filled and it blew slobber to the tune of around 300cc. Once the excess oil blew out it settled at around the 3/4 dot below the full line with no more abnormal slobber. I am now comfortable running the OE configuration but will only fill on servicing to about half-way on the stick. Problem solved. Finally. I believe H-D should change the fill line on the stick and this would essentially solve all the breather slobber issues. In fact an H-D mechanic told me just today the MOCO has changed the dip stick. He did say what changed, however. Cheers!
Hey John - thanks for sharing the project update! I’m glad it all worked out for you. How do you like the 122 kit with that cam? And if you want a sticker send me a DM on Telegram, Instagram or Signal with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
@@RonsWorkshop Hi, Ron! I really love the 122 kit with the torque cam. It pulls hard but is smooth and very easy to ride. It uses the stock heads and valves but high capacity lifters and pushrods. For reliablity and durability, I added the SE HO oil pump. All H-D parts except S&S billet lifter collars. I have 1K miles on it now and have zero oil loss as long as it is not overfilled. It looks like I can easily go 5K without having to add oil. I check it every fuel stop out of habit. It is still under warrranty and so far H-D has been very supportive. I use my bike for commuting commonly this time of year and even when ambient temps are over 100F it does at high Interstate speeds for long distances. Syn 3 all 3 holes. The bike also does very as a canyon carver, general touring, sport touring. It handles excellently. If I had one "complaint" it would be the underpowered front brake and no heated grips. These corrections will be made as time and finances allow. Might even take a trip to Sturgis next week. Spontaneous transcontinental touring:)
I implemented essentially the same on my Road King after I had the same messy problem with the A1 Cycle vented dipstick (their solution was to run less oil level and I wasn't so happy with that) - it works really well and on the 2018 MY RK at least, the top cover is metal! :-) Great video, kkep up the great work!
Hey Ian - thanks for the feedback! I’m also not a fan of running lower oil levels. If you want a channel sticker send me a DM on Telegram or Instagram with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
@@RonsWorkshop I have a 22 Road glide ST. I ordered the Trask vented transmission cover and it arrives Friday. Your videos really helped me make the decision. Keep pushing out the content as I tend to watch more of the more informative videos with clear dialog.
@@RonsWorkshop I have a question. Went to do the checkmate install and the middle hex head by the cylinder will not break free. I don’t want to strip the head of the bolt. Any suggestions?
@kendallrampy2360 hmmm…might have try the old classics. PB Blaster, Marvel Mystery Oil, or maybe a little heat from a propane torch. Let me know how it goes…
Now that you've been running this for a couple of months, do you have any follow up thoughts? I was curious what you thought about a metal check valve that threads into the transmission cover? Do you think it would yield any different results that you were able to achieve with the plastic check valve? I was thinking of closer placement to the cover to eliminate flex in the hose vent line when the valve closes?? Thoughts?
Hey Stephen - I'll be posting a follow-up video in a few weeks. I have yet to find a metal check valve that suits me, but I'm still looking (I'll give more detail in the follow-up video,). The differential vent that was mentioned in one of the comments is a decent option, but I prefer having a hose barb on it. Let me know if you come up with any that look promising.
Did your mod yesterday as iv got Dino run next weekend and boy ur right about fiddly getting them bolts out ! Buy all good tho. Thanks for the tips Ron.
Hey Dean - very nice! Let me know how the dyno run goes. Do you happen to have a baseline run to compare to see if there is any power difference? And if you want a sticker send me a DM on Telegram, Instagram or Signal with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
Ron - Just an FYI for those with pre 2019 M8's, they did not use an oil pump to engine seal. This results in significat blow by (aka oil gushing out of the breather). I called trask after having this issue on my 2018 Fatboy 114 and they told me that without the seal, not to run it as it will shoot oil out. Either need to add the seal to the existing pump, or just upgrade the oil pump while you are in there and add the seal.
@@RonsWorkshop I actually did your DIY which I loved instead of going with the Trask kit, but I figured they would be able to help me trouble shoot and they were very helpful. I will be adding the breather back in once I add that seal
i never had a problem until i changed the mufflers and the baffles were too small. they must have caused too much backpressure. then i noticed a lot of oil dripping under the breather. i changed the smaller baffles to larger and the oil problem disappeared. along with lowering the crankcase oil level. the factory wants the oil no higher than halfway up the fill marks. even 1/4 below half will be fine. i now keep it 1/4 below half. and just use an oil pressure gauge as a backup. my 96 holds quite a lot of oil. i can't see lowering it being significant. works for me. maybe run the breather hoses up to a tee above the rocker boxes and add a baffled breather. and let gravity drain it back to the engine. they make a small breather with some kind of oil catch baffle built in. I've done a lot of mods on problem engines. i enjoy learning the hard way. sometimes its the only way. lmao.
Hey Ron I ended up having oil blow all the way through the hose through two filters and onto my bike under wot only. Ultimately I built two baffles. Installed one in the dipstick and the other I replaced the filter medium in the fuel filter I used with a baffle followed by compressed foam. Not as free breathing but does breath and no more oil blowing out
I realy like your work and the clarity with which you present it. My atempt at a dipstick vent failed misribly (oil all over the place) so following your inititive and after learning from watching Mr Baxters vidoes I have accumulated the parts to vent through the m8 trans cover. My concern is the check valve, being in the uk I have bought a Sytec non return valve designed for fuel lines, I hope this is ok. i am new to HDs (have 2018 107 m8) so I find your investigations most interesting and perplexed at HDs engineering omissions/short falls. Thank you Ron for work.
Hey Brian - thanks so much for the encouragement! With the check valve, an important point to check is the opening pressure. You want that as low as possible. I tried several fuel check valves and the opening pressure was to high for my liking. I’m not sure what the magic level is, but I literally blew with my mouth to check. When it would open with barely any pressure, I knew I had one I liked. I hope that makes sense. Let me know what you end up with. And if you want a sticker send me a DM on Telegram, Instagram or Signal with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
@@RonsWorkshop Thank you for the reply. Yes opening pressure is a concern, I can blow it open (it opens reluctantly). I have tried measuring it using a cycle pump gauge but pressure too low to measure. I will check operation by The plastic bag trick. Got a plan for a Closed head breather loop using a small catch can then to the OEM vacuum tube. Really appreciate your videos, grateful for the sticker offer but postage to UK would not make that a realistic option.
Hey Ron after watching your videos and other on UTUBE , I finally vented the transmission top cover on my 2019 street glide CVO. It’s too soon to tell if it will cut down on the oil spiting out of my air filter on free way rides or if I rode it hard for awhile but I’m sure time will tell. I,d like to tell you that I appreciate your videos and I will enjoy seeing your news ones as you share them with the UTUBE community. Thanks Steve K
Did the DIY with a 5/16” set-up. First thing you notice is that the motor runs smoother when idling and switching over to single lung, when hot. Mileage went from 42 to 45. Stumping didn’t really change. Was 5 oz a month before the fix. 6 oz at the time of the change, 5 oz after the change and 140mile highway run. No gray oil sludge showing up anywhere. Would say it’s a must do for M8s. Now for the lifter guides and lifters. Thanks Ron.
Since I already have the Fueling vented dipstick, I might try your DIY vent in the transmission cover and then connect the dipstick and trans cover vent tubes together using a breather filter with top and bottom hose fittings.
@@davidgilding3549 One though - I considered using a single line (by using t or y fittings to tie them) but I was concerned that pressure from one could charge the other, basically working against one another. Based on that I decided to keep them separate. Does that make sense?
@@RonsWorkshop Hi, I see what you mean but if the pressure is pushing out they should equalise. I will try with a larger diameter T to collect any oil that pushes up from the dipstick ( that tube will have a one way valve) but no valve going up to the end filter, that will sit behind the top of the rear cylinder where the air will be warm and dry ! My thought is that at some point in the engine's cycle air will be drawn back in scavenging any oil coming from the dipstick back into the transmission cover if that makes sense ? I will take some pics when it's done ( If it works ! ) That transmission cover WAS a pain to take off ! I managed to round off one Allen bolt but got it out by driving a star type fitting in. A set of new bolts are on the way !
Great videos, Just ordered all the 1/4" stuff to do the Trans vent mod. Can't wait to see the results. I took my air cleaner off on my 2019 Road Glide and there was a decent amount of oil.
Hi Ron, like your solution! Much cheaper than the Trask and for sure something to try out. I will put this on my m8 roadking special 2017 because i put in a new redshift 468 cam which will make more torque/rpm’s so the crankcase pressure will go up. More venting is adviced next to the standard vent tube… great footage !! Thanks, greetz from The Netherlands, yes the land od Gouda cheese, tulips and wooden shoes (Amsterdam) 🧀 🌷🇳🇱
Hey Andreas - I’m glad this was helpful! You might want to watch the latest video as well, where I cover the top questions about crankcase venting: th-cam.com/video/JPI3AeMfYeg/w-d-xo.html
Only thing I do not know right now is If I can leave the breather bolts where they are on a 117 with heavy breather. If I use the transmission top cover solution there is still a possibility of mist flowing through the BBs... Unless resistance along the catch can if far far less than it is though those bolts. I was watching your great contend exessiveply lately and will keep following! 👍 👍 👍
Hey Andreas - I don’t understand the first question. For #2, for me relieving the crankcase pressure is top priority. Vacuum is nice to have but may or may not be possible without a separate vacuum source.
Great video, first time viewer here,speaking for most older guys that are hard of hearing the last thing we need is trying to listen to the content of what ever we’re watching and then there’s this annoying music that makes it very difficult to hear what your saying!!! Anyway I think it will work thanks for sharing
Thanks for the video. Did mine yesterday. Hopefully it helps with my excessive heat problem on my 2019 SGSP. Only thing i would probably change would be use a bard fitting with a 45degree angle to make it easier to put hose on close to the rear jug. Also for getting bolts out i used a hex bit from my screwdriver set and put a little electrical tape on it to hold it into a 1/4" ratcheting wrench. Worked perfectly. Again Thanks for the video for something that should be stock on all v-twins.
Hey Robert - thanks for the feedback! You could go with the 1/4” instead: amzn.to/3KhcIor Or this is one I’ve been wanting to try - it’s twice as expensive but made of metal and looks promising (but it’s 5/16”): amzn.to/3KhcIor Let me know what you go with…
Ok - I did some digging and found out that the previous supplier no longer carries the check valves, but there is a new supplier. The drawback is they only seem to sell them in packs of 6. Here’s a link to what I found: bit.ly/3GxGyGQ
Ron, just like cars/trucks. You will want a vacuum in the crankcase. Obviously not positive pressure from the stroke, I suggest you put a check valve in. I still have my setup and it's doing great.
Hey Cody - yep, this one has a check valve in it. I’ve also done a vacuum-ported catch can mod that you can check out here: th-cam.com/video/5h6Apcj7DDg/w-d-xo.html
I have the TRASK CheckM8. It really makes a big difference especially since I have a 128" engine. It worked fine before I added the Big Bore kit. BUT, after I added the kit I noticed oil dripping out of the filter. The culprit was that I didn't have the "O" Ring/gasket on the back of the oil pump. Harley added this in 2019-2020. It wasn't in the directions of the S&S oil pump. When I called Trask the Tech spouted off the part number like it was his name. Apparently, this is an issue when increasing displacement. Added the "O" Ring and no more oil problem.
Hey really like channel very helpful. I have a 2023 roadglide special still under warranty will venting my crankcase this way have any effects on my warranty. Thank you
Hey Darrin - Thank you for the kind words! I believe each dealership may have their own stance on this, so it’s probably worth asking about. If they sell vented dipsticks and don’t have a problem with those, I wouldn’t think they’d have an issue with crankcase venting. You might also want to watch the recent video where I cover the top 4 questions related to crankcase venting: th-cam.com/video/JPI3AeMfYeg/w-d-xo.html
Hey Ron thank for your tip on the crankcase vent. I have another question. This harley warranty stuff killing me. I'm told by the dealership I can put a full exhaust on and do a cam. But i have to use a SE tuner. Are you aware of any that won't void my warranty. I know they wouldn't tell if it was. Thank you
@@darrinwison7666 They have tuning locked down tight because of the EPA. As I understand it, if we use anything other than a SE tuner, it flags the ECU and the dealer can see that flag and therefore potentially void the warranty. That said, you can get a decent tune with the SE tuner. I had the dealer install my Stage III kit still under warranty, and they would only use the SE tuner. It runs great - I am sure there is power yet to be had, and that will come next now that my warranty is expired. But - the SE tune was decent.
I just did a dip stick vent on my 16 flhx. In the process of several other upgrades so have not rode it yet. I installed an Edelbrock mini fuel filter with a unifilter on top of it with about two n a half feet of hose. I will be externally venting the Arlen ness drift air cleaner assembly as well. Mechanically it makes since that pressure eliminated out of the rotating parts would allow a cleaner easier running engine. Nice job on the videos. Thanks for that and I’ll do some thorough testing after I get everything back together.
Hey Alex - thanks for the info and the feedback! Definitely let me know how it goes once you get some miles on it. If you want a channel sticker send me a DM on Telegram or Instagram with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
Hey FitMike713 HTX - thanks for the feedback! I’m glad the info is helpful - let me know what you end up with. If you want a channel sticker send me a DM on Telegram or Instagram with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
Now I feel like I owe you 250 bucks because I was literally about to buy the fueling dipstick but dang that is freakin amazing it’s definitely what I’ll be doing..
Lol that’s hilarious. Thanks for the feedback. Let me know how it goes and if you want a channel sticker send me a DM on Telegram or Instagram with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
Hey João Maurício Basile de Souza - thanks so much! I’ve got some really cool projects going…really cool stuff coming. And if you want a sticker send me a DM on Telegram, Instagram or Signal with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
Great info, I found everything I need to do this (except filter) in my junk drawer of my toolbox... looks like I got a project for after work tomorrow👍🏻
Hey Ride Red - thanks for the feedback! Let me know how it goes. If you want a channel sticker send me a DM on Telegram or Instagram with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
Hey Atomjonesy - So far so good. I plan to release a follow up video in a couple of weeks and I’ll share an update and also cover some info that has been raised in the comments.
Hey Atomjonesy - I just posted the follow-up video: th-cam.com/video/BaG1VdOFe48/w-d-xo.html If you want a channel sticker send me a DM on Telegram or Instagram with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
Going to do this as well as a mod to vent the air cleaner ports into the same place on the transmission cover. Should help keep the throttle body from getting oil in it as well.
Hey Jamie - just make sure you T into the line outside the transmission top cover rather than venting back into the top cover and then out. That way you avoid putting contaminants into the crankcase. Let me know how it goes!
@@pmaint1 if its easy to route from the breather bolts thats where i go from otherwise its just venting the dip stick, anythings better than nothing but you need to have it so your not sucking in the fumes when stationary
I did the vented dipstick and relocated the return lines out of throttle body down to a filter. 2020 m8 and man I noticed a big difference in the way the motor runs feels much more free running think I even gained a little H.P. the more you vent the more you prevent may even do this trans cover too
Hey SILVERGHOST 2323 - thanks for sharing that. I agree - let that thing breathe! If you vent the top cover let me know how it goes. If you want a channel sticker send me a DM on Telegram or Instagram with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
@@RonsWorkshop Hey Ron thanks I'm real curious to see if my cover is plastic as well I have a street glide it also came with the added venting from factory in 2020 on the clutch side inside housing
Hi Ron, Thanks for the time you take to share the videos, I only have one simple question. In your parts description you have your favorite check valve as a Cole-Palmer. Could you please be more descriptive as why it's your favorite and an actual Cole-palmer part number and what PSI it's rated at. Thanks
I ended up choosing that particular check valve for several reasons, especially 1) very low opening pressure (just 0.1 psi) 2) solvent tolerance 3) temperature tolerance. The actual Cole-Parmer (Masterflex) part number is 9855302 for the 1/4” check valve. I did some digging and found out that the previous supplier I used no longer carries the check valves, but there is a new supplier. The drawback is they only seem to sell them in packs of 6. Here’s a link to what I found: bit.ly/3GxGyGQ And here's another one that I have not tried but could be promising: bit.ly/3MgLY9A Other check valves may work fine, but the lowest possible opening pressure is definitely beneficial. Let me know what you end up with! And thanks for the encouragement :)
@@RonsWorkshop Thanks Ron for you fast reply to my Question, I did see both of those options while searching but in looking a lot of them don't say what the opening PSI is so thanks you for adding that. when I look at the Masterflex item I still don't see that information but I trust you did the research
My pleasure! This oil shows the opening pressure, but it doesn’t have any way to purchase it: us.vwr.com/store/item/NA5139763/miniature-plastic-hose-barb-check-valves
Would it make more sense to put the bulkhead fitting in the other way? That way you can keep and eye on that nut if it stays right or not? It’s good that the nut can’t go down the holes inside, but you wouldn’t know if it’s fallen off in there or not maybe. And if it loosens you could have an air leak and be ruining your vacuum.
Which way is the check valve? Restricting in which way? Preventing flow to the transmission vent or away from it? Some clarity if you please. Great videos and info!!!
Hey Daniel - thanks for the kind words! You want the air to flow away from the crankcase, and out to the atmosphere. Let me know if you need more info...
@@RonsWorkshop thanks. That clears everything up. Looks like a winter project. George Brice agrees that is a good fix especially for the 117 motors. Thanks again, and keep the good videos coming.
Over spring and summer doing city, backroad and interstate rides, I put a few. 1- 2k miles on my 2020 and 2021 M8, 107s with my crankcase vented (via transmission cover, using acheck valve, and, then to an open hose with paper tissue) I haven't seen any oil or oil vapor on the tissue yet..still not sure I'll need to do more to eleminate excessive oil into the intake..guess I'll have to keep an eye on the oil build up in my air filter housing
I just did this on my early 2017 street glide. The gasket in mine is way different, but the cover is aluminum. Anyway, I drilled a 5/8 hole in the gasket to allow to breath out of my bulk fitting. Ran about 50 miles. Although it ran really great, my uni filter and the blue shop rag I wrapped around it was completely saturated with oil. I cracked it open again to find that my gasket may have been holding oil close enough to my fitting to blow it out my tube. So I cut my gasket to match that venting void in hopes to mitigate that issue. Didn't get to test ride yet... fingers crossed.
Hey Anthony - yeah the aluminum covers have a different gasket. Thanks for sharing that update - definitely let me know how it goes on the next test ride!
@@RonsWorkshop it's was absolutely worse. I've ran an A1 vented dipstick with 0 problems, and will have to go back to it. First I have to clean up all the oil that splattered all over the side of my bike. I have a S&S oil pump, cam plate and everything... I don't get it.
Nice job very clean work don’t feel you need check valve! But what do I know great video! Also I’m wondering if it’s the same on the touring bike cover?👍💯🇺🇸😎
Hey Glen - thanks for the feedback and input! I’m leaning that way too. I do believe the touring bikes are the same - you may even have an aluminum cover lol.
Hi Ron, great AWSOME tutorial DIY video. Question, i already did the air cleaner venting pressure done on my m8 low rider s. Is this trans cover venting necessary for me to do also? Appreciate ur feedback.
Thank you for the kind words! Even with the breather mod it’s worth checking for crankcase pressure. With the hike running you can pull the oil filler cap and see if you’re getting pressure - you can use a plastic bag or balloon over the filler tube if you need to. If you’re still getting pressure it’s worth it to vent the crankcase.
You totally motivated me. I did the trask like solution without a check valve. I have a street glide so there’s a little more room by the trans cover but it’s still tight. I purchased a vacuum hose kit. It comes with 1/4 and 3/8 fittings, rubber seals and bits needed to create holes that their fittings work with. 3 feet 3/8 fuel line and breather filter. All in was $24 and about 90 minutes total time. The gasket under my cover looks different than yours. The gasket seals the cover completely from the oil passage. The trans area of the gasket already had a hole with the breather. So I made two holes using a paper hole punch on the opposite end of where I created the hole for the breather exit. So far about 80 miles. Like you I have a 117 stage 4 from Harley and I changed the cam to a Woods 77X. After going to the Woods cam I’ve seen more oil in the intake. After this it’s bone dry so far. I’m going to do the head breather before the end of the month. Will come back and comment after that update.
Hey Pete - that’s for that info! Glad to hear it’s working well. Are you happy with the Woods cam? I have a few things planned when the warranty is up in a few months 🤪 If you want a channel sticker send me a DM on Telegram or Instagram with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
I love the cam. It has a sweet lope at idle. Torque that was missing from the SE 515 cam is there starting at 2k. Bike runs past 6k still pulling hard. There is torque everywhere. I’m actually getting better fuel mileage when highway cruising at 3k RPM. Runs a little cooler than SE Stage 4 setup. This cam definitely requires higher rate valve springs. It’s a 520 lift cam. So it’s going to be less popular than 470 lift that can use stock rate springs.
Hi Ron I did the trans top breather mod after I installed the Screamin Eagle torque cam. I didn't go with the check valve but I'm noticing the rpm is bouncing around more than I remember before the breather mod. My hot rpm in neutral hovers around the prescribed 950 but never really settles down. It drops into the 850 range when I shift into first. I'm going to experiment and cap off the breather hose coming from the cover and see how the next ride goes. If the rpm reacts better I'm going to add a one way check valve and reinstall the stock head breather setup like you did. My bike is a 2020 RKS 114ci.
Hey Vincent - very interesting! I haven’t noticed any RPM fluctuation with mine. I’ve always used the check valve except for a couple of experiments. I’m curious what you’ll find. Please let me know…
@@RonsWorkshop Yeah I'm not too sure either why my rpm fluxes like it's doing. Maybe I'm being paranoid about it but I'm going to try the experiment just to see. Hey Ron could you take a second to explain how the check valve also creates a vacuum? I'm not clear on that. I know the valve will open when the crankcase breather pressure pushes it open but how does the vacuum come into play? Also Amazon is out of the valves you recommend so I had to pick another type.
So I did some research on the M8 and rpm flux and totally forgot about the engine temp monitoring system that shuts off the rear cyl fuel injector at idle. This system definitely causes rpm flux so I doubt the trans cover mod is the cause.
@@vincentwilliams3815 Regarding the check valve and vacuum - its only purpose is to *allow* vacuum if ever there is to be any present. In theory the vacuum source is the throttle body ports that the breather bolts vent into. I haven't been able to detect any vacuum from that source with my tests, so it may be a moot point. Or, there is the chance that at highway speeds that vacuum could look different. Either way, it seems like a reasonable thing to keep the check valve just in case, because crankcase vacuum is definitely beneficial. Let me know if that makes sense...
@@vincentwilliams3815 Ahh yes. Perhaps that's it. I'm in ☀ FL and I've never noticed that rear cylinder cutoff, but I do my best to avoid heavy stop-and-go traffic.
Hey James - I’m trying to track down the details on the CVO VVT transmission top cover, but if it effectively vents the crankcase that seems like a good option. Let me know if you try it or find out more.
Hey Jorge - thanks for the feedback! Let me know if you tackle the project. I’ll be posting a follow-up video with a bit more info very soon. If you want a channel sticker send me a DM on Telegram or Instagram with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
@@RonsWorkshop Finally got around to tackling the project. First off, thank you again for your great videos and list of things needed. Made it super simple to do. I vented my ‘21 CVO Roadglide. Cool part about that is my trans. cover came metal from the factory so it came out CLEAN. I couldn’t be happier. I installed it with the check valve.
Hey Jorge - thanks for letting me know! I’m so glad this was helpful for you. Let me know how you like it after logging some miles. I believe it really helps and I can feel it with my “butt dyno” lol. Be sure to check out the follow-up video for pertinent info as well: th-cam.com/video/BaG1VdOFe48/w-d-xo.html
I have a 2018 Heritage 114 that I bought new and it appears to have come with a little curved vent hose coming out of the Transmission cover right where you put yours
Have you seen what they did with the new cvo’s. They no longer have the head breather system. They only vent from the trans top cover and route to the intake to create a vaccum to suck the crankcase pressure out. I’m curious to see how much this reduces oil in the intake. I would think a lot being the oil has a much harder time flowing up hill but haven’t been able to tear into one yet.
So I just took my top plate off and it's all aluminum. Gasket is different too. Questioning if the previous owner has already done some work to it. Going to pull the cover now and see what oil pump is in it.
Hey Matt - some of the bikes definitely have aluminum covers. If that gasket covers the side of the cover you’ll be drilling you can just puncture it to let the barb poke through. Let me know how it goes!
@@RonsWorkshopthanks so much for the reply. I think I'm going for the lock nut on the top thinking that one guy had. Beats it falling in the abyss of unknown if it somehow came loose. . Doing the 1/4 inch plumbing also just for reference. Awesome video and as you know it's appreciated by so many! Be safe my friend.
@@matteomallette That all sounds good! You might want to check the recent follow-up video as well. Just confirms and clarifies a few things: th-cam.com/video/JPI3AeMfYeg/w-d-xo.html
Hey Bey - thanks for the encouragement! Glad you find the info useful. If you want a sticker send me a DM on Telegram, Instagram or Signal with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
Finished my dipstick and transmission top cover vent instal today ! and it works 😀 I used a kuryakyn dipstick drilled through and tapped to take a brass tube adapter in the top. This runs round the rear suspension adjuster and under the seat through a one way valve, then exits behind the suspension adjuster again. It then goes into a quick release fitting that attaches too a T piece, on its side. I drilled and tapped the transmission cover like in your video and fitted another brass hose adapter ( but a larger bore) This goes into the T piece and up under the seat, over the shock and back out behind the top of the rear cylinder, into another quick release fitting and into a small air filter. The idea is that having it up here any air drawn in will be warm so no condensation ! There is no one way valve in the tube between the top cover and the filter so if any oil coming from the dipstick tube can return via the top cover. As yet no oil has been forced up to the filter, so I assume this works ! It looks neat enough but obviously a Trask cover and a feuling dipstick would look real nice. Thanks for the idea for the top cover vent, although it was real tight getting those six bolts out ( I fitted nice new chrome ones from Drag Specialties )
I definitely could have. If I do it again I’ll approach it slightly differently - like get the metal transmission cover, drill it, and tap it for a threaded fitting.
Interesting video thanks for sharing but I have a question…… I’m running a vented dipstick and I have to run a least half quart lower oil level to keep oil from blowing out the small filter…. My question can you run oil level full with your set up? The one way valve you have helps cases keep vacuum which helps rings to seal from research I’ve done. Thanks
Hey Wayne - I’m able to run the full oil level with no problems. However, some viewers have had issues with oil blowing out if the level was “normal”. I suspect it has to do with which oil pump the bike has - the earlier one that has issues vs. the later one that pumps better. Let me know how it goes if you give it a try!
@@RonsWorkshop …thanks I actually have a 135 cubic inch with S&S pump…… so I guess I’ll try it and see increasing oil level a little at a time…… Thanks again
@@RonsWorkshop … thanks I have about 5k miles on it since I got the motor together…. I’ve really enjoyed it…… it has good street manners…… I’d just like to add that half qt of oil that I can’t with vented dip stick
Question about check valve.Can not get the Cole-Parmer valve.Seen a few that might work but i think the cracking pressure is to high on the valves.What cracking pressure would you recommend? I was thinking around .25-.50 lbs for cracking pressure. THANKS Great video
Well I saw your video one day to late and had just ordered the Trask cover. That being said I really like your idea and I really like the cover from Trask . It wasn’t very hard to remove the original cover thanks to the cobalt mini ratchet you recommended. Had to remove it twice since I forgot to transfer the transmission vent tube from the Harley cover to the Trask 😫. I agree it feels like the engine runs smoother and has a little more pep, like you it may all be in my head . I’ll be watching to see if any oil accumulates in the filter, I looped the hose up as far as I could and zip tied it to frame under my bike, we will see.
Hey Brian - thank you for the kind words! That little tube that’s there from the factory vents the gearbox side of the case. There’s a divider down the middle of the case, under the transmission top cover, and the crankcase side is unvented.
I have found no dipstick venting solution for the 107 M8, anyway running my engine with the dipstick removed showed me that the flow did not increase with RPM's like my 2013 sporty Custom does at the rocker cover vents!@@RonsWorkshop
I believe it was one of your vids that told me that In May of 2019 Harley started to use an upgraded oil pump. I made sure that my bikes Date of Manufacture was after that, thank you. I will install a catchcan for the breathers and just enjoy my 2019 Street Glide when the temp drops below 90.!!! Have Fun @@RonsWorkshop
I have another idea, venting the blow by to the trans cover, then venting the trans cover simultaneously then put a can or filter breather. What do you think?
Hey Ron! I tried to vent it your way but without a check valve. After 1 mile i checked for oil coming out of the filter. It was a litte wet but i wasn‘t shure if its oil or not. So i put the filter in a plastic bag. After 3 miles i checked the plastic bag and there was „too much“ oil inside just to ignore. I am not shure if a check valve would fix the problem of that much oil coming trough the filter. The oil level is perfekt,… so i actually dont know what to do.
Hey KitzerPlaus - hmmm. Do you have the stock oil pump? Do you have any other sumping symptoms? Some others have gotten a similar outcome but I haven’t yet been able to identify the pattern. Let me know!
@@RonsWorkshop no i upgraded to a complete s&s 124 system incl. Oil pump etc… My check valve is coming tomorrow. I will upgrade as soon as possible. I wanted to do this because my pistons of the 107 look awful after 15 k miles. To garantee a long life engine i want to eliminate that problem. I let you know if the problem with the oil out of the filter was solved 😅 Cheers from Austria
@@RonsWorkshop Hey Ron! Do you have this seal in front of your oil pump (62400205)? Harley installed it for the touring models since 2019 because of the sumping problems.
Hey KitzerPlaus - I haven’t taken mine apart so I’m not sure. My assembly date is within a week of then the new pump was first officially used, and I have zero sumping issues, so I wonder if I might have ended up with the upgraded pump. Mine is a 2019 also. 🤷🏽♂️
Ok I have a catch can when the weather is cool it collects condensate in the can about three oz plus some oil . I don not want to put that water into my oil sump area so I just open vent the trans cover chamber area and service the catch can each time I ride my 2020 road glide
Hey gyourtall - yes, if you view the video description you can see a list of parts with links. On mobile tap “more” or on desktop click “show more”. Let me know if you need more info.
In your parts list do you have a 3/16 hose barb fitting that is stainless problem is is that it takes me right to a quarter inch hose barb fitting stainless. What I want to find is a 3/16 stainless right angle hose barb fitting?
I couldn’t find a 3/16 SS 90. Here’s a brass 1/4” 90° fitting - you could stretch the 3/16” hose onto it if needed. amzn.to/3upyMZy I’ll let you know if I find a stainless version.
@@RonsWorkshop One of the reasons I really like your videos is that you’re kind of eccentric in the way that you go at this…. Like me😂 i’m on a major search for a 90° medical grade or chrome plated…. I could probably get away with a 1/8 inch but I want to keep it small and very pretty so that when I put it on that chrome cover it looks as good as it can look, make sense?
@@RonsWorkshop That’s what I was thinking but I don’t have a transmission cover right now off the bike that I can really look at but I’m going to put that little guy in the sweetest spot. I think I’ll end up going with that quarter stainless that you listed simply because it was the nicest one that I could find. It’s just too bad the same outfit doesn’t have something identical to it that is right angle that would be really cool.
Awesome Video! I’ve been debating on doing an install video of the Trask or just Modifying Harley’s “China Made” plastic cap. Great content Ron, keep’em Coming 👍🏽
Hey RAIDER WORLD - thanks for the kind words! Let me know what you end up with. And if you want a channel sticker send me a DM on Telegram or Instagram with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
My 2018 SG CVO doesn’t have any issues at all and it’s a stock M8 117ci from the factory.....the Ventilator intake is clean every time I look at it...no issues so far...I’ve heard there’s a blow by problem with the M8 but mine doesn’t seem to have this issue for whatever reason......I’ve spoken with several mechanics.....and as one would guess there’s some who think you need to use these solutions and some that don’t....I’m not going to mess with mine at least for now....
Hey Gunship Gray - thanks for sharing that info! There are definitely two camps on this issue (need / don’t need). I had noticeable oil in my intake so I went for it. If you ever decide to do it let me know it goes.
I was actually designing the same thing when I came across your video. I run a motorcycle shop in Phoenix and was looking for a system to fix the sumping issue that I encountered last weekend. Both the Feuling and Trask systems are sold out and on back order. I do like the transmission cover method better as well. I was thinking of using a car PCV valve but think they may be overkill and a PITA to figure out what pressure of spring for the valve to release pressure at. I think the check valve is going to be a must as the motor is essentially an air pump. I feel that if there was not one it would try to suck air in with the piston going up. I will of course be using my own 2019 Electra Glide for the test subject. Thanks for the video!
Hey Rob - thanks for the info and feedback! I searched high and low for a suitable metal mini PCV valve to no avail, as that was my first hope as well. The check valve I ended up with and gave a link for has very low breaking pressure (0.18 psi) but high max pressure (50 psi) and a 250° max temp. Based on those specs I felt comfortable with the piece. Let me know how it goes! And if you want a channel sticker send me a DM on Telegram or Instagram with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
@@RonsWorkshop Finally got to work on my own bike to get this completed. Taking off on a long 7k+ trip for a few weeks. When I get back in town I will update you on the outcome if it helped with the sumping, or if I will be rebuilding a 124 motor! Simple install for anyone that wants to try it though.
Question, is there enough room to just install a “grommet “ in the top cover and insert a small pvc valve, then route the hose like back years ago? It would kinda be like the valve cover pvc vent system that has been tried and true for many years. Thanks in advance for any answers.
Hey Bryan - there’s definitely room for that. The only challenging is finding a PCV valve with a low enough opening pressure. Let me know if you give it a try!
Hey mikeham610 - if you click Show More down where the video description is, you can scroll down to link to each of the parts. Let me know if that helps…and thanks for the kind words!
I just purchased the Trask Performance Cover.. and then after I saw this video .. NOW I'm wondering if I should tackle this project or continue with the Trask Performance cover....!!!! What you guys think???
I think if you use the trask, you're spending about 10x more money than you need to... On something that isn't going to perform any better than this DIY project.
@@0351marinemike thanks for the feedback - so far the DIY is working great. A month or so down the road I'll post a follow-up after logging more miles, and in that one, I'll give an update on both the transmission top cover and the intake breather mod.
Hey there. Just did your breather mod and I recon it's improved performance on 3 points. So I have a 17 m8 FLHXS with power cams, race tuner air ram and SE mufflers so... 1. Feels like it now accelerates quicker with more pull. 2. The mufflers certainly have a louder bark 3. And, so when I use to have to drop down to 60 kilometres per hour (or KPH and I am in Australia) 4th gear used to start shuttering so would have to drop down to 3rd. Now, not only does 4th gear handle 60 kph with ease, I was able to drop down to 40 kph in 4th before it starts shuttering like it used to at 60kph. I can actually now drop down to 60 kph in 5th gear and still putt along. I know, I won't be doing that in my regular riding, but what it says to me, is quite a bit of opposing force to the engines power has been aliminated. Cheers Derek. 🍻
Hey Derek - thanks for giving the update with some quantifiable details! That's great to hear. I can feel the difference on mine as well and I've really been pleased with the performance. If you want a channel sticker send me a DM on Telegram or Instagram with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
Hey 18superduty - thanks for the feedback and let me know how it goes! Follow-up video coming soon. If you want a channel sticker send me a DM on Telegram or Instagram with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
So the crank case ventilation systems, assuming the crank case pressures less than atmospheric pressure. I have to stop and think about that for a minute. check valve… good info
The crankcase pressure is positive / greater than atmospheric, which is detrimental. The check valve only allows for vacuum if it happens to be present. The main thing is to vent the pressure. There won’t likely be vacuum (I never detected any) but at least it would be captured if it was there. You might want to watch this one too: th-cam.com/video/JPI3AeMfYeg/w-d-xo.html
I have done the vented top cover like you described. I also believe this is the best location for the vent. Just changed the oil and “filter for the vent”, and have experienced excess oil residue on the swing arm and area near the rear tire splash shield. Not sure what to do to try and eliminate that messy stuff! Suggestions?
Hey Pat - Hmmm...I haven't seen much oil residue on mine. You might try mounting the little pod filter up high, but if you have the check valve it would get backed up on top of it. You could also secure the tube way down low and remove the pod filter, and it would drip occasionally -- but that's not necessarily the best. Let me know what you try and how it goes...
Ron, looking forward to an update on the transmission top cover venting. I have the EVS and I had the fueling vented dipstick. I had to put back the stock dipstick back on because too much oil was coming out of the dipstick/hose/breather and coating the entire underside of the bike. I am running a Woods 22XE cam/lifters and S&S camchest/oilpump/pushrods/chain tensioner/billet tappet cuffs and Andrews crank sprocket. Not sure if that contributes to the oil coming out of the dipstick breather. I have also seen people saying the EVS prohibits vacuum and is bad for the ring seals on the pistons. But I have seen the tops of pistons with an EVS and they look way better than those without.
Hey Brian - working on the follow-up video now. I finally got good info on the various points that were unanswered in the crankcase vacuum video that I posted after this one - so check that one out too if you haven’t yet. The vacuum is definitely good for the motor, but pressure is not. Do you know if you’re having any sumping issues with the external intake breather installed? And did you have any sumping before that? I’m feeling like a good combo is venting the crankcase (with check valve) while retaining the OEM head breathers is a good combo - assuming there are no sumping issues to complicate things. This approach vents the pressure from the crankcase but still allows for the beneficial vacuum.
@@RonsWorkshop Ron, I did not have any sumping issues as far as i know. I watched a few videos on the carbon buid-up on top of the pistons and that is why i did the EVS. I'll wait for your follow up video on the vacuum/pressure issues. It is crazy that venting the oily gasses back into the bike is good for it because it keeps vacuum. I'll stand by for your next video.
Yeah I understand. It ends up being a situation where we have to weigh the options and pick the one we feel most comfortable with, knowing there are some trade-offs.
I don't know what kind of plastic the transmission top cover is made from, but you need to be very careful with loctite around some kinds of plastic. ABS in particular is quickly eaten up, at least by the blue stuff (don't know about the red). You might want to check occasionally that the hose barb isn't loosening up - that might indicate the plastic is degrading.
Hey Donald - thanks for the kind words! Check out the follow-up video where I clarify that a bit; th-cam.com/video/JPI3AeMfYeg/w-d-xo.html Let me know if that helps…
Hi Ron on your suggested check valve the specs say it opens at .18psi and closes at .014 psi and needs 1psi back pressure to operate . The check valve I am currently using has an operating pressure 2.9 psi is this to high for the crankcase vent. Thanks Jim
Hey Jim - I haven’t measured the pressure to know if it will exceed 2.9psi. You could always try it and see if lets the pressure out at idle. I’d prefer a lower opening pressure, but that’s just my personal preference. Let me know how it goes!
Thanks for your prompt reply. I have a dumb question why hasn't anyone hooked a pressure gauge on the transmission cover mod and measured the crankcase pressure. There is absolutely no information out there on what it should be.
@user-fq1gc1wy1t that’s a really great question. I may just try to measure that this weekend - not sure why I never did that before. I’ll let you know what I find.
No strong preference - but be sure to check your leg clearance with the air cleaner. That was an issue for me, and the air cleaner I chose gave me knee clearance whereas the other styles would have caused interference. Let me know what you pick - they both look nice, and that style in general gives good airflow because of the amount of filter area.
Great video bud, I ended up getting a different 3/16” check valve, as I blew through it it does check (if that’s the word) but I guess the question I have is should there be much resistance to allow it to vent or hardly any? I’m thinking the latter. Thanks for the video you’re a legend. Edit: I think what I need is a low pressure opening valve like .10 to .15 lbs pressure, the one I was able to locate are 2.0lb which feel like too much
Hey Romeo - you want it to be as easy as possible to blow through it and allow the air to pass the check valve. The less resistance the better. And thanks for the kind words!
Probably a foolish question, but having vented the crankcase through the transmission cover (ala Trask M8) is there any need to continue venting through the intake breather bolts? I don't know how to measure the volume of pressure to insure the transmission vent is sufficient and I don't want to blow seals or gaskets. It sure would solve the oil in my air cleaner if I could simply install solid bolts in the breathers.
Hey Jeff - even with the transmission top cover you’d probably get a bit of oil in the throttle body without the external breather mod. Much less, but still some. External breather mod with regular breather bolts might be an option worth trying.
Hi Ron, thanks for your help and informative content, just wondering would 1PSI non return valve be too much? Will the crankcase pressure get up to 1psi on the M8? Curious, if it doesn't then the valve will not lift of its seat to vent the crankcase.
Hey Chris - that is a great question. I’m not sure what the pressure gets up to, but my guess is it will exceed 1 psi. However, the check valves I like have a breaking pressure of just 0.18 psi so there’s no doubt. Here’s a link if you want to check those out: bit.ly/3Pb5BE2
Would that problem have been solved with an external breather system on your intake or do you still feel like the additional transmission breather is necessary? Why both? Or is it really a question of "why not both?"
Hey Andy - good questions. Make sure you watch the follow-up video as well - I actually posted two subsequent videos so far, but the one I’ll link to here answers the key questions. The drawback to the external breather mod on the intake is that it removes the source of vacuum for the crankcase. In the follow-up video I also mention another variation on the theme that I also want to try. The crankcase vent is doing a great job by the way. I’m very pleased with it. Here’s the follow-up video: th-cam.com/video/BaG1VdOFe48/w-d-xo.html
Hey Michael - in this video you’re seeing my Lucky Speed Shop levers and I bought them directly from them. I really like the levers - I did a full review here: th-cam.com/video/Fo3Oc0iawLs/w-d-xo.html And I made a set of my own as well, even shorter, and had them Cerakoted: th-cam.com/video/2mUqy6Kq4y4/w-d-xo.html
how can i get a list of parts you used and part numbers , barbed fitting also having engine oil getting into the trans would your fix help my problum ?
Hey Carl - there are links to everything in the video description box. I don’t think this will help the oil transfer issue, but I haven’t researched it to know for sure. Let me know how it goes!
Cars have a PCV valve that works in the same manner as the Trask tranny cover reed valve. A PCV valve allows blow-by gasses (gasses that escape the combustion chamber past the piston rings and into the crankcase) to vent from the crankcase then into the intake so it's environmental friendly. The engine needs to breath, so routing the gasses and oil residue that come out of the heads back into the crankcase is not a good idea. Where is the positive crank case pressure going to go when it's just in a loop? It needs to leave the crankcase and not return. Routing to a vented catch can is a better solution.
So Ron, I removed my cover and unlike yours with gasket covering over just the middle chamber, mine has gasket covering over the middle and the right side. I believe this is what others meant by punching holes in the gasket. Am a bit timid about doing that. Don't understand why that side is covered like that in the first place. It would seem that the right side is divided into two separate chambers, the space in the bottom with the vent holes and the space under the cover where I'd be putting the bulkhead fitting. Once I put the gasket back on it would seem that that little compartment with the bulkhead fitting is sealed from the oil/crankcase vents, hence, the question about punching holes in the gasket. Also, someone talked about absolutely needing the check valve to maintain vacuum pressure to seal O rings or piston rings, I believe, especially if using the external breather system at intake in conjunction with the crankcase breather. Otherwise, it would be an "open breather system" and jacking things up over time. Doesn't the check valve preserve the vacuum and negate the open breather system so you can indeed use both systems? Lastly, how the heck do you remove that freakin' gasket?
Hey Rob - If the transmission compartments would still be sealed from the crankcase compartment after punching a hole you should be fine. On mine, there was a little tab on the gasket that stuck out of a little notch on the cover, and I was able to coax it out using that and gently pulling. For the check valve - I agree that if a check valve is used on the transmission top cover vent, that would preserve the vacuum and should have nothing to do with the intake breather mod causing it to be a free breather. The breather mod just vents the blow-by away from the intake, so even without the breather mod there is airflow from blow-by. Let me know if my answers make sense.
@@RonsWorkshop Thanks Ron, I just wanted to be sure I was reading replies correctly that they were punching a hole in that part of the gasket to allow access to the breather assembly. Have no idea if it would be sealed from the transmission compartments until I remove the gasket. Guessing since others did so it must be. Man is that a loaded statement.
@@RonsWorkshop Installed the mod, road tested, ran great. Thanks for doing this and saving us some cash. Ill be keeping an eye on the - oil in the intake - issue. Man, it was leaking out of the filter and onto the cam chest. Hope this puts an end to that. If not then I'll go to the external breather system. A guy I ran into had two catch cans attached to braided hoses hanging down right next to his intake and it looked pretty sharp. Instead of hiding it he made it into a fashion statement. The glaring issue, however, is the carbon build-up on the pistons. Bike has 11000 miles so there's bound to be something there. Does it eventually burn off do you know? I've seen something about spraying sea foam through the spark plug hole.
Thanks for the update!! Let me know how the intake looks after some miles. I suspect you’ll see a big difference. I’m not sure if the carbon will burn off - I kind of think not, but at least we can avoid more buildup. I haven’t tried sea foam or anything else like that but perhaps that would help. Regarding the catch cans - my sculpture teacher always said “if you want to hide it, make it obvious”! If you want a channel sticker send me a DM on Telegram or Instagram with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
Hi Ron, thankyou for sharing all this wisdom to help people like me to tackle these jobs!!! I have a 2018 FLHTK 107. I've done the intake breather mod, and used 1/4" tubing 2 into 1, went with 3/8 tubing where the 2 go into 1, then to a small filter. Wanting to do the crankcase breather mod, wondering your thoughts, or possible drawbacks to running those 2 lines together into 1 check valve to a catch can. Or if the crankcase is the only one that needs the check valve...
Hey tdbrillo - Thank you for the kind words! Be sure t watch this follow-up video for some important info about using both mods together: th-cam.com/video/BaG1VdOFe48/w-d-xo.html Regarding a catch can - I’ve just completed a project using a catch can, both mods, and a vacuum source. I’m editing that video now and I’ll release it ASAP. If you decide to tie them together, you’d probably be fine (especially with the larger tubing you’re using). The video I’m about to release should answer all the questions about the catch can. And if you want a sticker send me a DM on Telegram, Instagram or Signal with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
After the failed vented dipstick project, I have a great venting solution that uses the transmission top cover, including a check valve -- Although I am debating whether or not that's necessary. Let me know if you've tried anything like this, and if you have any facts about whether or not a vacuum in the crankcase is needed (for pulling oil down?). Do you have any other ideas to make this a better solution?
!+
I made a crank vent
Hey Paul - thanks for sharing that. I’ll definitely check out his video. I’ve heard the same thing about venting both and removing the vacuum. I plan to do some tests on mine to see what I can determine.
@paul wichert bought all the parts to do it just skeptical if the softails even need the trans vented. Got a 21 heritage 114 stage 1 any ideas fellas? Should I just let it roll or just go for it and why would I do this 😆
Hey Tyler - blow-by is the main thing that is addressed. Venting the crankcase will greatly reduce (possibly eliminate) the blow-by whereas a breather mod will just route the blow-by oil and gasses away from the intake so they don’t get sucked in and end up on top of the pistons. Not sure if they’ve done anything with the 2021 models to address this. Also note that I originally did both mods to my bike, but I’m about to post a follow up video with some updates. Some say doing both is a problem but I’m still unable to get verifiable info on this. I’ll share more in the follow up video.
Hope that helps.
As a first time HD owner, there’s a lot of info out there about this issue, all of it is confusing. This channel and this video was the most helpful for me. Thanks for the content.
Hey Looper Trooper - I’m so glad this is helpful, and thanks for the kind words!
"almost as if Harley had planned to put a vent there but for some reason (hint, hint, EPA regulations) they weren't able to." nailed it.
The 2024 touring bikes vet here now... lol
id say that the check valve idea is when your open throttle it can cause vacume in intake and pull the vapor from the heads? but i guess if they are also disconnected leaving it open would be fine. ill be doing this mod and leaving it open for sure as some checkvalves have to reach a certain pressure to open. id rather just have it open to air :)
That's an option for sure. Let me know how it goes! Just make sure you have a pod filter or some filter if you leave it open., just to make sure nothing can get pulled in.
The crankcase vent is clean, simple, and works very well. Check your oil normally with no hoses to pull first. Great approach.
It’s my favorite for sure! Simple and effective.
Hi Ron, thanks for this! I have been investigating the crankcase venting issue for the M8 for several weeks, trying to decide what to do with my 2018 Sport Glide. Your solution makes the most sense to me out of all the other ideas I have come across, and I am going to implement your fix. I enjoy getting my hands dirty, and installing a fix for a known issue on my bike is very appealing. Thanks for your research and labor in getting this together. Off to the garage!
Hey Charles - thanks for the feedback! Let me know how it goes. If you want a channel sticker send me a DM on Telegram or Instagram with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
@@RonsWorkshophi Ron
Great video and instructions. I had a Trask on an 18 CVO SG with an S&S oil pump. the Trask dumped oil out the breather! called Trask and was informed that my Gen1 oil pump (without o-ring between pump and case) will do that but, after adding a vented dip stick I was able to release the Trask trany vent.
Also noted H-D added this o-ring on mid 2019 and up.
So if you fall into this category, do vent at the trany cover.
My 2022 FXLRST will get the trans cover and head venting DYI.
I believe that the vacuum keeps the rings seated to the cylinder walls on decel.
copied from a major Mfg. bulletin.
On 2019 and earlier M8 motorcycles, there is NO seal between the oil pump body and the
crankcase, inside the cam chest. H-D incorporated the seal in late 2019*. This seal prevents
pressure from the crankcase pushing into the cam chest through the pinion bearing.
Hey Jeff - thanks for the kind words and for sharing that info!
And if you want a sticker send me a DM on Telegram, Instagram or Signal with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
I got this put in today! I used the red loctite with the removable nut top side so there's no possibility of the nut falling down. Bike runs much smoother and revs faster. Thanks for sharing how to do this! I trimmed the bottom barb so it wouldn't hit the casing below with a hacksaw. This vent works great! Went with the 1/4" stainless fittings.
Hey JJ - thanks for the kind words and for sharing the info about your project! I can feel a performance difference as well.
And if you want a sticker send me a DM on Telegram, Instagram or Signal with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
Same , but I didn’t need to cut the barb , the shorty side is flush to the cover
Nice!
I swear in God that this is the best explanation ever, subscribed, thanks 👍👍👍
Hey Harman Channel - I’m glad this was helpful, and thank you for the kind words!
Oh well, my husband and I say you are always welcome to come up. I would like to keep my bike in better than stock condition, it is also a stage 1. Reinhardt slip on's and a Screaming Eagle oval air cleaner and the Screaming Eagle tuner/programmer.
Thanks so much!!
For anyone doing this mod, Trask released a info letter stating that if your bike DOES NOT have the oil pump with the seal against the crank bearing side, you will probably have oil puking out of the vent hose. The seals stops the crankcase pressure from migrating into the cam chest.
That's good info - thanks for sharing that!
This is absolutely true! I have a 2017 M8 touring bike that I did this mod on, and it puked about 6 oz of oil out on a 500 mile road trip. I had to close it back off and spend some time cleaning the oil that spattered all over my engine and exhaust. Pretty disappointing to say the least, but the bike definitely ran better with the venting in place. I didn't want to have to change the oil pump, but looks like that's the only solution to the cam chest pressure problem...
Thank you for the tip.
How do I determine what type of oil pump is on my 2021 Sport Glide? (Sorry, I've owned and worked on around 70 bikes in my time, but this is my first HD!)
You and me both - it’s my first Harley as well :)
Here’s a link to the HD technical tip bulletin about the oil pump. Based on the bulletin, any bikes 2020 and later (and some late 2019 bikes) should have the improved pump:
static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2019/MC-10164800-9999.pdf
So if you do the oil pump upgrade is this type of venting still necessary?
Thanks Ron for getting back with me so quick. All installed and looking good
Just did this to my 19 heritage over the wknd. Took about 30 mins. Ball end Allen sockets save a lot of time. Great video. I have the A1 cycles dipstick on my Road glide special but am considering doing this to it as well. The heritage doesn't make half the air pressure that the RGS does. I've also got both vented at the breather as well. I did not do the check valve as you did. I didn't really see a need to. I placed the end of the tube in a plastic bag and never got any vacuum at all. The bag kept getting larger so I'm not sure of the vacuum that some are speaking of. Again great video!
Hey Timberjkd - thanks for sharing your results and also for the feedback! I like your creative approach to testing for testing the vacuum and the ball-end allens are a great tip.
If you want a channel sticker send me a DM on Telegram or Instagram with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
I went to ACE and bought a small 90* BrassElbow = 2-3$ with conical thread, went home and did what you did but I drilled a hole and then used a NPT Tap to make a thread in the Top Cover. Gave the Brass Elbow some Red Loctite…screwed it in and mounted a nice black hose with a quality Crank Case filter and put it exactly where you did.
Works just perfect !
Hey Christoffer Lunoe - that’s great! Thanks for sharing that information. Is your top cover metal? Mine is plastic so I don’t trust it with just NPT threads.
Yes luckily it’s chromed cast metal,.. just had to be a little careful so the chrome didn’t start to peel off 😉.
Hi all, I think an automotive style PCV valve with a 90 degree connector is the way to go. Then run the hose down under bike with a filter or catch can. There will be oil trapped above the fitting if you go straight up from the cover since the vapors will contain oil and eventually clog it up. In an automotive style setup the pcv is attached to the vacuum side of air intake to eliminate the oil residue. Great video btw, good info.
Hey William - thank you for the kind words and for the input! I agree an automotive PCV valve could be a good option - the important point in my opinion is to get one with a very low opening pressure. Maybe one for a small import?
So typical Harley. If it were my car with a crank case vent issue there’d be a recall covering it under warranty, with HD we get to find our own solutions. Thanks for the video. I’ll seriously consider doing this myself.
Hey Chris - yeah, good point. If you tackle it let me know how it goes.
If you want a channel sticker send me a DM on Telegram or Instagram with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
@@RonsWorkshop i need to ask if putting a hole in the case will give them an excuse to deny the warranty. If that’s not an issue I’ll start ordering parts, and a toolbox sticker. :-D
@@chrissmith7669 Hmmm...not sure on that one. I just had mine in for warranty service, but I'm sure they did not see the mod since it is not really visible. If you ask it may raise a flag. I think it also depends on the individual dealer and how picky they are.
@@RonsWorkshop your work looks factory to me. It’d take someone looking close who knows exactly what they’re looking for to even notice the mod.
I appreciate the compliment!
Great work, Ron! My bike is a 2022 RGS. It has an SE HO oill pump and 122 kit with 447 cam. Before the build, I had horrible problems with blow by. I did the vent to atmosphere breathers and vented dip stick and these served allow oil to be blown all over the bike. After the 122 kit and new oil pump, I was advised by the builder not to do the vented dip stick but that the breather vents were OK. Well, it seems the motor was over-filled and it blew slobber to the tune of around 300cc. Once the excess oil blew out it settled at around the 3/4 dot below the full line with no more abnormal slobber. I am now comfortable running the OE configuration but will only fill on servicing to about half-way on the stick. Problem solved. Finally. I believe H-D should change the fill line on the stick and this would essentially solve all the breather slobber issues. In fact an H-D mechanic told me just today the MOCO has changed the dip stick. He did say what changed, however. Cheers!
Hey John - thanks for sharing the project update! I’m glad it all worked out for you. How do you like the 122 kit with that cam?
And if you want a sticker send me a DM on Telegram, Instagram or Signal with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
@@RonsWorkshop Hi, Ron! I really love the 122 kit with the torque cam. It pulls hard but is smooth and very easy to ride. It uses the stock heads and valves but high capacity lifters and pushrods. For reliablity and durability, I added the SE HO oil pump. All H-D parts except S&S billet lifter collars. I have 1K miles on it now and have zero oil loss as long as it is not overfilled. It looks like I can easily go 5K without having to add oil. I check it every fuel stop out of habit. It is still under warrranty and so far H-D has been very supportive. I use my bike for commuting commonly this time of year and even when ambient temps are over 100F it does at high Interstate speeds for long distances. Syn 3 all 3 holes. The bike also does very as a canyon carver, general touring, sport touring. It handles excellently. If I had one "complaint" it would be the underpowered front brake and no heated grips. These corrections will be made as time and finances allow. Might even take a trip to Sturgis next week. Spontaneous transcontinental touring:)
John that sounds great all the way around! Thanks for sharing all that info.
I implemented essentially the same on my Road King after I had the same messy problem with the A1 Cycle vented dipstick (their solution was to run less oil level and I wasn't so happy with that) - it works really well and on the 2018 MY RK at least, the top cover is metal! :-) Great video, kkep up the great work!
Hey Ian - thanks for the feedback! I’m also not a fan of running lower oil levels.
If you want a channel sticker send me a DM on Telegram or Instagram with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
Why do you not have more subscribers? Really good presentation and description of the problem. Thank you.
Hey Kendall - thanks for the kind words! Be sure to check out the recent update as well: th-cam.com/video/JPI3AeMfYeg/w-d-xo.html
@@RonsWorkshop I have a 22 Road glide ST. I ordered the Trask vented transmission cover and it arrives Friday. Your videos really helped me make the decision. Keep pushing out the content as I tend to watch more of the more informative videos with clear dialog.
The Trask cover is a nice piece for sure! I’m glad this info is helpful :)
@@RonsWorkshop I have a question. Went to do the checkmate install and the middle hex head by the cylinder will not break free. I don’t want to strip the head of the bolt. Any suggestions?
@kendallrampy2360 hmmm…might have try the old classics. PB Blaster, Marvel Mystery Oil, or maybe a little heat from a propane torch. Let me know how it goes…
Now that you've been running this for a couple of months, do you have any follow up thoughts? I was curious what you thought about a metal check valve that threads into the transmission cover? Do you think it would yield any different results that you were able to achieve with the plastic check valve? I was thinking of closer placement to the cover to eliminate flex in the hose vent line when the valve closes?? Thoughts?
Hey Stephen - I'll be posting a follow-up video in a few weeks. I have yet to find a metal check valve that suits me, but I'm still looking (I'll give more detail in the follow-up video,). The differential vent that was mentioned in one of the comments is a decent option, but I prefer having a hose barb on it. Let me know if you come up with any that look promising.
Hey Stephen - I just posted a follow-up video: th-cam.com/video/BaG1VdOFe48/w-d-xo.html
Did your mod yesterday as iv got Dino run next weekend and boy ur right about fiddly getting them bolts out ! Buy all good tho. Thanks for the tips Ron.
Hey Dean - very nice! Let me know how the dyno run goes. Do you happen to have a baseline run to compare to see if there is any power difference?
And if you want a sticker send me a DM on Telegram, Instagram or Signal with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
Ron - Just an FYI for those with pre 2019 M8's, they did not use an oil pump to engine seal. This results in significat blow by (aka oil gushing out of the breather). I called trask after having this issue on my 2018 Fatboy 114 and they told me that without the seal, not to run it as it will shoot oil out. Either need to add the seal to the existing pump, or just upgrade the oil pump while you are in there and add the seal.
Hey Ryan - thanks for sharing that info! I've heard that about using the Trask CheckM8 with the old style oil pumps.
@@RonsWorkshop I actually did your DIY which I loved instead of going with the Trask kit, but I figured they would be able to help me trouble shoot and they were very helpful. I will be adding the breather back in once I add that seal
Glad it worked out for you!
And if you want a sticker send me a DM on Telegram, Instagram or Signal with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
i never had a problem until i changed the mufflers and the baffles were too small. they must have caused too much backpressure. then i noticed a lot of oil dripping under the breather. i changed the smaller baffles to larger and the oil problem disappeared. along with lowering the crankcase oil level. the factory wants the oil no higher than halfway up the fill marks. even 1/4 below half will be fine. i now keep it 1/4 below half. and just use an oil pressure gauge as a backup. my 96 holds quite a lot of oil. i can't see lowering it being significant. works for me. maybe run the breather hoses up to a tee above the rocker boxes and add a baffled breather. and let gravity drain it back to the engine. they make a small breather with some kind of oil catch baffle built in. I've done a lot of mods on problem engines. i enjoy learning the hard way. sometimes its the only way. lmao.
Hey Will - thanks for sharing that info! I can totally relate to learning the hard way 🤣
Hey Ron I ended up having oil blow all the way through the hose through two filters and onto my bike under wot only. Ultimately I built two baffles. Installed one in the dipstick and the other I replaced the filter medium in the fuel filter I used with a baffle followed by compressed foam. Not as free breathing but does breath and no more oil blowing out
Hey Alex - was that using the vented dipstick alone without the crankcase vent?
I realy like your work and the clarity with which you present it. My atempt at a dipstick vent failed misribly (oil all over the place) so following your inititive and after learning from watching Mr Baxters vidoes I have accumulated the parts to vent through the m8 trans cover. My concern is the check valve, being in the uk I have bought a Sytec non return valve designed for fuel lines, I hope this is ok.
i am new to HDs (have 2018 107 m8) so I find your investigations most interesting and perplexed at HDs engineering omissions/short falls. Thank you Ron for work.
Hey Brian - thanks so much for the encouragement! With the check valve, an important point to check is the opening pressure. You want that as low as possible. I tried several fuel check valves and the opening pressure was to high for my liking. I’m not sure what the magic level is, but I literally blew with my mouth to check. When it would open with barely any pressure, I knew I had one I liked. I hope that makes sense. Let me know what you end up with.
And if you want a sticker send me a DM on Telegram, Instagram or Signal with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
@@RonsWorkshop Thank you for the reply. Yes opening pressure is a concern, I can blow it open (it opens reluctantly). I have tried measuring it using a cycle pump gauge but pressure too low to measure. I will check operation by The plastic bag trick. Got a plan for a Closed head breather loop using a small catch can then to the OEM vacuum tube. Really appreciate your videos, grateful for the sticker offer but postage to UK would not make that a realistic option.
I send stickers around the world :) it’s not expensive at all. Shoot me your mailing info, and let me know what you learn.
Hey Ron after watching your videos and other on UTUBE , I finally vented the transmission top cover on my 2019 street glide CVO. It’s too soon to tell if it will cut down on the oil spiting out of my air filter on free way rides or if I rode it hard for awhile but I’m sure time will tell. I,d like to tell you that I appreciate your videos and I will enjoy seeing your news ones as you share them with the UTUBE community. Thanks Steve K
Hey Steven - thanks so much for the kind words! I’m so glad the info is helpful. Let me know how it is after some more miles.
Did the DIY with a 5/16” set-up. First thing you notice is that the motor runs smoother when idling and switching over to single lung, when hot. Mileage went from 42 to 45. Stumping didn’t really change. Was 5 oz a month before the fix. 6 oz at the time of the change, 5 oz after the change and 140mile highway run. No gray oil sludge showing up anywhere. Would say it’s a must do for M8s. Now for the lifter guides and lifters. Thanks Ron.
Hey Chris - thanks for sharing your results. Sounds like it is working well for you!
Since I already have the Fueling vented dipstick, I might try your DIY vent in the transmission cover and then connect the dipstick and trans cover vent tubes together using a breather filter with top and bottom hose fittings.
Hey Brian - ok cool. Let me know how it goes!
I am thinking the same ! How`s it going ?
@@davidgilding3549 One though - I considered using a single line (by using t or y fittings to tie them) but I was concerned that pressure from one could charge the other, basically working against one another. Based on that I decided to keep them separate. Does that make sense?
@@RonsWorkshop Hi, I see what you mean but if the pressure is pushing out they should equalise. I will try with a larger diameter T to collect any oil that pushes up from the dipstick ( that tube will have a one way valve) but no valve going up to the end filter, that will sit behind the top of the rear cylinder where the air will be warm and dry ! My thought is that at some point in the engine's cycle air will be drawn back in scavenging any oil coming from the dipstick back into the transmission cover if that makes sense ? I will take some pics when it's done ( If it works ! )
That transmission cover WAS a pain to take off ! I managed to round off one Allen bolt but got it out by driving a star type fitting in. A set of new bolts are on the way !
Sounds good - let me know!
Just did this mod without having to disconnect the oil return line. I used a 1/4 ratcheting wrench and a bit shimmed in with gorilla tape.
Great videos, Just ordered all the 1/4" stuff to do the Trans vent mod. Can't wait to see the results. I took my air cleaner off on my 2019 Road Glide and there was a decent amount of oil.
Hey Anthony - thanks for the kind words! Let me know how it goes.
How far does the check valve go up the hose? Just before the filter ? Please advise
@dankaragozian701 I put mine maybe 1/2 to 3/4 of the way up the hose. I’m not sure it matters a ton. Let me know how it goes.
@@RonsWorkshop -thanks Ron. Happy New Year
@@RonsWorkshop -how much hose did u use ?
Hi Ron, like your solution! Much cheaper than the Trask and for sure something to try out. I will put this on my m8 roadking special 2017 because i put in a new redshift 468 cam which will make more torque/rpm’s so the crankcase pressure will go up. More venting is adviced next to the standard vent tube… great footage !! Thanks, greetz from The Netherlands, yes the land od Gouda cheese, tulips and wooden shoes (Amsterdam) 🧀 🌷🇳🇱
Thanks for the kind words! I happened to visit Amsterdam back in October. My first visit!
This was a perfect description of installation plus very entertaining! Common harley lights go red hahaha 👍
Hey Andreas - I’m glad this was helpful! You might want to watch the latest video as well, where I cover the top questions about crankcase venting: th-cam.com/video/JPI3AeMfYeg/w-d-xo.html
Only thing I do not know right now is If I can leave the breather bolts where they are on a 117 with heavy breather. If I use the transmission top cover solution there is still a possibility of mist flowing through the BBs... Unless resistance along the catch can if far far less than it is though those bolts. I was watching your great contend exessiveply lately and will keep following! 👍 👍 👍
Hey Andreas - I don’t understand the first question. For #2, for me relieving the crankcase pressure is top priority. Vacuum is nice to have but may or may not be possible without a separate vacuum source.
Great video, first time viewer here,speaking for most older guys that are hard of hearing the last thing we need is trying to listen to the content of what ever we’re watching and then there’s this annoying music that makes it very difficult to hear what your saying!!! Anyway I think it will work thanks for sharing
Hey Gary - thanks for the kind words! Let me know if you give it a try. I’ve been happy with it overall…it’s simple but it does the job well.
Thanks for the video. Did mine yesterday. Hopefully it helps with my excessive heat problem on my 2019 SGSP. Only thing i would probably change would be use a bard fitting with a 45degree angle to make it easier to put hose on close to the rear jug. Also for getting bolts out i used a hex bit from my screwdriver set and put a little electrical tape on it to hold it into a 1/4" ratcheting wrench. Worked perfectly. Again Thanks for the video for something that should be stock on all v-twins.
Hey TheStormChasser - that’s a good idea for the 45° fitting :) I’m glad this was useful, and thanks for the kind words!
I have the Trask cover, it's not just a hole drilled through it like you did, it has a one way valve in it.
Hey Ray - the Trask cover is a nice piece for sure. My solution does incorporate a check valve as well.
This is a good solution. What check valve would work as the check valve you listed was no longer available?
Hey Robert - thanks for the feedback! You could go with the 1/4” instead:
amzn.to/3KhcIor
Or this is one I’ve been wanting to try - it’s twice as expensive but made of metal and looks promising (but it’s 5/16”):
amzn.to/3KhcIor
Let me know what you go with…
Sorry but neither of those are available either. Any other choices?
Ok - I did some digging and found out that the previous supplier no longer carries the check valves, but there is a new supplier. The drawback is they only seem to sell them in packs of 6. Here’s a link to what I found: bit.ly/3GxGyGQ
Ron, just like cars/trucks. You will want a vacuum in the crankcase. Obviously not positive pressure from the stroke, I suggest you put a check valve in. I still have my setup and it's doing great.
Hey Cody - yep, this one has a check valve in it. I’ve also done a vacuum-ported catch can mod that you can check out here: th-cam.com/video/5h6Apcj7DDg/w-d-xo.html
I have the TRASK CheckM8. It really makes a big difference especially since I have a 128" engine.
It worked fine before I added the Big Bore kit. BUT, after I added the kit I noticed oil dripping out of the filter.
The culprit was that I didn't have the "O" Ring/gasket on the back of the oil pump. Harley added this in 2019-2020.
It wasn't in the directions of the S&S oil pump.
When I called Trask the Tech spouted off the part number like it was his name. Apparently, this is an issue when increasing displacement.
Added the "O" Ring and no more oil problem.
Hey Jack - yeah the Trask cover is nice. Thanks for sharing your learnings!
Hey really like channel very helpful. I have a 2023 roadglide special still under warranty will venting my crankcase this way have any effects on my warranty. Thank you
Hey Darrin - Thank you for the kind words! I believe each dealership may have their own stance on this, so it’s probably worth asking about. If they sell vented dipsticks and don’t have a problem with those, I wouldn’t think they’d have an issue with crankcase venting. You might also want to watch the recent video where I cover the top 4 questions related to crankcase venting: th-cam.com/video/JPI3AeMfYeg/w-d-xo.html
Hey Ron thank for your tip on the crankcase vent. I have another question. This harley warranty stuff killing me. I'm told by the dealership I can put a full exhaust on and do a cam. But i have to use a SE tuner. Are you aware of any that won't void my warranty. I know they wouldn't tell if it was. Thank you
@@darrinwison7666 They have tuning locked down tight because of the EPA. As I understand it, if we use anything other than a SE tuner, it flags the ECU and the dealer can see that flag and therefore potentially void the warranty. That said, you can get a decent tune with the SE tuner. I had the dealer install my Stage III kit still under warranty, and they would only use the SE tuner. It runs great - I am sure there is power yet to be had, and that will come next now that my warranty is expired. But - the SE tune was decent.
@@RonsWorkshop thanks again Ron. Man this really disappointing. I should have stayed on my twin cam. I miss her
I’m happy to help! It’ll work out. There’s always a way :)
I just did a dip stick vent on my 16 flhx. In the process of several other upgrades so have not rode it yet. I installed an Edelbrock mini fuel filter with a unifilter on top of it with about two n a half feet of hose. I will be externally venting the Arlen ness drift air cleaner assembly as well. Mechanically it makes since that pressure eliminated out of the rotating parts would allow a cleaner easier running engine. Nice job on the videos. Thanks for that and I’ll do some thorough testing after I get everything back together.
Hey Alex - thanks for the info and the feedback! Definitely let me know how it goes once you get some miles on it.
If you want a channel sticker send me a DM on Telegram or Instagram with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
Just watched your last three vids on this issue. I’ve got a ‘20 FXLRS so this is very useful information! Great explanation, Sub’d and Notified! 👍
Hey FitMike713 HTX - thanks for the feedback! I’m glad the info is helpful - let me know what you end up with. If you want a channel sticker send me a DM on Telegram or Instagram with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
Now I feel like I owe you 250 bucks because I was literally about to buy the fueling dipstick but dang that is freakin amazing it’s definitely what I’ll be doing..
Lol that’s hilarious. Thanks for the feedback. Let me know how it goes and if you want a channel sticker send me a DM on Telegram or Instagram with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
Just subscribed from Brasil! You are hitting the world man. Yhaaaa
Hey João Maurício Basile de Souza - thanks so much! I’ve got some really cool projects going…really cool stuff coming.
And if you want a sticker send me a DM on Telegram, Instagram or Signal with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
@@RonsWorkshop it´s so nice that you´ve noticed my comment, I would love to get your sticker. I´ll send you a DM on instagram. Thanks in advance.
Great info, I found everything I need to do this (except filter) in my junk drawer of my toolbox...
looks like I got a project for after work tomorrow👍🏻
Hey Ride Red - thanks for the feedback! Let me know how it goes.
If you want a channel sticker send me a DM on Telegram or Instagram with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
Same here!!!! Ron, any updates to this?
Hey Atomjonesy - So far so good. I plan to release a follow up video in a couple of weeks and I’ll share an update and also cover some info that has been raised in the comments.
Hey Atomjonesy - I just posted the follow-up video: th-cam.com/video/BaG1VdOFe48/w-d-xo.html
If you want a channel sticker send me a DM on Telegram or Instagram with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
Going to do this as well as a mod to vent the air cleaner ports into the same place on the transmission cover. Should help keep the throttle body from getting oil in it as well.
Hey Jamie - just make sure you T into the line outside the transmission top cover rather than venting back into the top cover and then out. That way you avoid putting contaminants into the crankcase. Let me know how it goes!
ive vented all 3 of the M8's i have owned, none with check valve, & they all ran fine
Hey Julian - thanks for sharing that info!
@Julian Johnstone. Do you care to share with us how you went about venting your m8's?
@@pmaint1 if its easy to route from the breather bolts thats where i go from otherwise its just venting the dip stick, anythings better than nothing but you need to have it so your not sucking in the fumes when stationary
I did the vented dipstick and relocated the return lines out of throttle body down to a filter. 2020 m8 and man I noticed a big difference in the way the motor runs feels much more free running think I even gained a little H.P. the more you vent the more you prevent may even do this trans cover too
Hey SILVERGHOST 2323 - thanks for sharing that. I agree - let that thing breathe! If you vent the top cover let me know how it goes.
If you want a channel sticker send me a DM on Telegram or Instagram with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
@@RonsWorkshop Hey Ron thanks I'm real curious to see if my cover is plastic as well I have a street glide it also came with the added venting from factory in 2020 on the clutch side inside housing
Hi Ron, Thanks for the time you take to share the videos, I only have one simple question. In your parts description you have your favorite check valve as a Cole-Palmer. Could you please be more descriptive as why it's your favorite and an actual Cole-palmer part number and what PSI it's rated at. Thanks
I ended up choosing that particular check valve for several reasons, especially 1) very low opening pressure (just 0.1 psi) 2) solvent tolerance 3) temperature tolerance. The actual Cole-Parmer (Masterflex) part number is 9855302 for the 1/4” check valve.
I did some digging and found out that the previous supplier I used no longer carries the check valves, but there is a new supplier. The drawback is they only seem to sell them in packs of 6. Here’s a link to what I found: bit.ly/3GxGyGQ
And here's another one that I have not tried but could be promising: bit.ly/3MgLY9A
Other check valves may work fine, but the lowest possible opening pressure is definitely beneficial.
Let me know what you end up with!
And thanks for the encouragement :)
@@RonsWorkshop Thanks Ron for you fast reply to my Question, I did see both of those options while searching but in looking a lot of them don't say what the opening PSI is so thanks you for adding that. when I look at the Masterflex item I still don't see that information but I trust you did the research
My pleasure! This oil shows the opening pressure, but it doesn’t have any way to purchase it: us.vwr.com/store/item/NA5139763/miniature-plastic-hose-barb-check-valves
Hey Eric I found a purchase link for the 1/4” check valve: bit.ly/3ZpIhEV
Would it make more sense to put the bulkhead fitting in the other way? That way you can keep and eye on that nut if it stays right or not? It’s good that the nut can’t go down the holes inside, but you wouldn’t know if it’s fallen off in there or not maybe. And if it loosens you could have an air leak and be ruining your vacuum.
Hey Joe - Thats's a good idea!
Which way is the check valve? Restricting in which way? Preventing flow to the transmission vent or away from it? Some clarity if you please. Great videos and info!!!
Hey Daniel - thanks for the kind words! You want the air to flow away from the crankcase, and out to the atmosphere. Let me know if you need more info...
@@RonsWorkshop thanks. That clears everything up. Looks like a winter project. George Brice agrees that is a good fix especially for the 117 motors. Thanks again, and keep the good videos coming.
Let me know how the project goes!
And if you want a sticker send me a DM on Telegram, Instagram or Signal with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
Over spring and summer doing city, backroad and interstate rides, I put a few. 1- 2k miles on my 2020 and 2021 M8, 107s with my crankcase vented (via transmission cover, using acheck valve, and, then to an open hose with paper tissue) I haven't seen any oil or oil vapor on the tissue yet..still not sure I'll need to do more to eleminate excessive oil into the intake..guess I'll have to keep an eye on the oil build up in my air filter housing
Hey ut1004bp - that’s good news! Glad you’re not seeing much residue or weeping. I have very little on mine as well.
I just did this on my early 2017 street glide. The gasket in mine is way different, but the cover is aluminum. Anyway, I drilled a 5/8 hole in the gasket to allow to breath out of my bulk fitting. Ran about 50 miles. Although it ran really great, my uni filter and the blue shop rag I wrapped around it was completely saturated with oil. I cracked it open again to find that my gasket may have been holding oil close enough to my fitting to blow it out my tube. So I cut my gasket to match that venting void in hopes to mitigate that issue. Didn't get to test ride yet... fingers crossed.
Hey Anthony - yeah the aluminum covers have a different gasket. Thanks for sharing that update - definitely let me know how it goes on the next test ride!
@@RonsWorkshop it's was absolutely worse. I've ran an A1 vented dipstick with 0 problems, and will have to go back to it. First I have to clean up all the oil that splattered all over the side of my bike. I have a S&S oil pump, cam plate and everything... I don't get it.
That’s really strange - I can’t imagine what the big difference is. Please let me know if you learn anything more.
Nice job very clean work don’t feel you need check valve! But what do I know great video! Also I’m wondering if it’s the same on the touring bike cover?👍💯🇺🇸😎
Hey Glen - thanks for the feedback and input! I’m leaning that way too. I do believe the touring bikes are the same - you may even have an aluminum cover lol.
Hi Ron, great AWSOME tutorial DIY video. Question, i already did the air cleaner venting pressure done on my m8 low rider s. Is this trans cover venting necessary for me to do also? Appreciate ur feedback.
Thank you for the kind words! Even with the breather mod it’s worth checking for crankcase pressure. With the hike running you can pull the oil filler cap and see if you’re getting pressure - you can use a plastic bag or balloon over the filler tube if you need to. If you’re still getting pressure it’s worth it to vent the crankcase.
You totally motivated me. I did the trask like solution without a check valve. I have a street glide so there’s a little more room by the trans cover but it’s still tight. I purchased a vacuum hose kit. It comes with 1/4 and 3/8 fittings, rubber seals and bits needed to create holes that their fittings work with. 3 feet 3/8 fuel line and breather filter. All in was $24 and about 90 minutes total time. The gasket under my cover looks different than yours. The gasket seals the cover completely from the oil passage. The trans area of the gasket already had a hole with the breather. So I made two holes using a paper hole punch on the opposite end of where I created the hole for the breather exit.
So far about 80 miles. Like you I have a 117 stage 4 from Harley and I changed the cam to a Woods 77X. After going to the Woods cam I’ve seen more oil in the intake. After this it’s bone dry so far. I’m going to do the head breather before the end of the month. Will come back and comment after that update.
Hey Pete - that’s for that info! Glad to hear it’s working well.
Are you happy with the Woods cam? I have a few things planned when the warranty is up in a few months 🤪
If you want a channel sticker send me a DM on Telegram or Instagram with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
I love the cam. It has a sweet lope at idle. Torque that was missing from the SE 515 cam is there starting at 2k. Bike runs past 6k still pulling hard. There is torque everywhere. I’m actually getting better fuel mileage when highway cruising at 3k RPM. Runs a little cooler than SE Stage 4 setup. This cam definitely requires higher rate valve springs. It’s a 520 lift cam. So it’s going to be less popular than 470 lift that can use stock rate springs.
Love it! I’ll keep that one in mind.
Hey Paul - I listed all the links in this video description - let me know if you have any trouble.
Is this still working well without a check valve?
Hi Ron I did the trans top breather mod after I installed the Screamin Eagle torque cam. I didn't go with the check valve but I'm noticing the rpm is bouncing around more than I remember before the breather mod. My hot rpm in neutral hovers around the prescribed 950 but never really settles down. It drops into the 850 range when I shift into first. I'm going to experiment and cap off the breather hose coming from the cover and see how the next ride goes. If the rpm reacts better I'm going to add a one way check valve and reinstall the stock head breather setup like you did. My bike is a 2020 RKS 114ci.
Hey Vincent - very interesting! I haven’t noticed any RPM fluctuation with mine. I’ve always used the check valve except for a couple of experiments. I’m curious what you’ll find. Please let me know…
@@RonsWorkshop Yeah I'm not too sure either why my rpm fluxes like it's doing. Maybe I'm being paranoid about it but I'm going to try the experiment just to see. Hey Ron could you take a second to explain how the check valve also creates a vacuum? I'm not clear on that. I know the valve will open when the crankcase breather pressure pushes it open but how does the vacuum come into play? Also Amazon is out of the valves you recommend so I had to pick another type.
So I did some research on the M8 and rpm flux and totally forgot about the engine temp monitoring system that shuts off the rear cyl fuel injector at idle. This system definitely causes rpm flux so I doubt the trans cover mod is the cause.
@@vincentwilliams3815 Regarding the check valve and vacuum - its only purpose is to *allow* vacuum if ever there is to be any present. In theory the vacuum source is the throttle body ports that the breather bolts vent into. I haven't been able to detect any vacuum from that source with my tests, so it may be a moot point. Or, there is the chance that at highway speeds that vacuum could look different. Either way, it seems like a reasonable thing to keep the check valve just in case, because crankcase vacuum is definitely beneficial. Let me know if that makes sense...
@@vincentwilliams3815 Ahh yes. Perhaps that's it. I'm in ☀ FL and I've never noticed that rear cylinder cutoff, but I do my best to avoid heavy stop-and-go traffic.
Folks are now using the new CVO VVT transmission cover and plugging the head breather holes with bolts. What are your thoughts on that Ron?
Hey James - I’m trying to track down the details on the CVO VVT transmission top cover, but if it effectively vents the crankcase that seems like a good option. Let me know if you try it or find out more.
You, my good sir, are a hero. Thank you for your hard work!
Hey Jorge - thanks for the feedback! Let me know if you tackle the project. I’ll be posting a follow-up video with a bit more info very soon.
If you want a channel sticker send me a DM on Telegram or Instagram with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
Hey Jorge - I just posted a follow-up video: th-cam.com/video/BaG1VdOFe48/w-d-xo.html
@@RonsWorkshop Finally got around to tackling the project. First off, thank you again for your great videos and list of things needed. Made it super simple to do. I vented my ‘21 CVO Roadglide. Cool part about that is my trans. cover came metal from the factory so it came out CLEAN. I couldn’t be happier. I installed it with the check valve.
Hey Jorge - thanks for letting me know! I’m so glad this was helpful for you. Let me know how you like it after logging some miles. I believe it really helps and I can feel it with my “butt dyno” lol. Be sure to check out the follow-up video for pertinent info as well: th-cam.com/video/BaG1VdOFe48/w-d-xo.html
I have a 2018 Heritage 114 that I bought new and it appears to have come with a little curved vent hose coming out of the Transmission cover right where you put yours
I got excited when I saw that on mine, but it vents the transmission not the crankcase.
Have you seen what they did with the new cvo’s. They no longer have the head breather system. They only vent from the trans top cover and route to the intake to create a vaccum to suck the crankcase pressure out. I’m curious to see how much this reduces oil in the intake. I would think a lot being the oil has a much harder time flowing up hill but haven’t been able to tear into one yet.
Hey Matthew - I’ve heard about that change but not seen it. Thanks for sharing that info!
So I just took my top plate off and it's all aluminum. Gasket is different too. Questioning if the previous owner has already done some work to it. Going to pull the cover now and see what oil pump is in it.
Hey Matt - some of the bikes definitely have aluminum covers. If that gasket covers the side of the cover you’ll be drilling you can just puncture it to let the barb poke through. Let me know how it goes!
@@RonsWorkshopthanks so much for the reply. I think I'm going for the lock nut on the top thinking that one guy had. Beats it falling in the abyss of unknown if it somehow came loose. . Doing the 1/4 inch plumbing also just for reference. Awesome video and as you know it's appreciated by so many! Be safe my friend.
@@matteomallette That all sounds good! You might want to check the recent follow-up video as well. Just confirms and clarifies a few things: th-cam.com/video/JPI3AeMfYeg/w-d-xo.html
subbbed. now time to look over the rest of the vids haha i love my m8 and this channel makes me happy haha
Hey Bey - thanks for the encouragement! Glad you find the info useful. If you want a sticker send me a DM on Telegram, Instagram or Signal with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
Finished my dipstick and transmission top cover vent instal today ! and it works 😀
I used a kuryakyn dipstick drilled through and tapped to take a brass tube adapter in the top. This runs round the rear suspension adjuster and under the seat through a one way valve, then exits behind the suspension adjuster again. It then goes into a quick release fitting that attaches too a T piece, on its side. I drilled and tapped the transmission cover like in your video and fitted another brass hose adapter ( but a larger bore) This goes into the T piece and up under the seat, over the shock and back out behind the top of the rear cylinder, into another quick release fitting and into a small air filter.
The idea is that having it up here any air drawn in will be warm so no condensation ! There is no one way valve in the tube between the top cover and the filter so if any oil coming from the dipstick tube can return via the top cover. As yet no oil has been forced up to the filter, so I assume this works !
It looks neat enough but obviously a Trask cover and a feuling dipstick would look real nice.
Thanks for the idea for the top cover vent, although it was real tight getting those six bolts out ( I fitted nice new chrome ones from Drag Specialties )
That’s great! Give us an update after you log a few more miles.
I know those bolts are a pain to remove and install :)
Great idea!! I am going to try this,
Hey John - check out the updated video as well: th-cam.com/video/JPI3AeMfYeg/w-d-xo.html
And let me know how it goes!
Love your solution, why did you put the nut on the inside of the cover? Couldn't you have just flipped the barb over and put the nut on the outside?
I definitely could have. If I do it again I’ll approach it slightly differently - like get the metal transmission cover, drill it, and tap it for a threaded fitting.
@@RonsWorkshop Thanks, as soon as my parts arrive I'm going to do mine, I just feel better with the nut on the outside. Love your video's
Interesting video thanks for sharing but I have a question…… I’m running a vented dipstick and I have to run a least half quart lower oil level to keep oil from blowing out the small filter…. My question can you run oil level full with your set up? The one way valve you have helps cases keep vacuum which helps rings to seal from research I’ve done. Thanks
Hey Wayne - I’m able to run the full oil level with no problems. However, some viewers have had issues with oil blowing out if the level was “normal”. I suspect it has to do with which oil pump the bike has - the earlier one that has issues vs. the later one that pumps better. Let me know how it goes if you give it a try!
@@RonsWorkshop …thanks I actually have a 135 cubic inch with S&S pump…… so I guess I’ll try it and see increasing oil level a little at a time…… Thanks again
135…NICE!
@@RonsWorkshop … thanks I have about 5k miles on it since I got the motor together…. I’ve really enjoyed it…… it has good street manners…… I’d just like to add that half qt of oil that I can’t with vented dip stick
I’d feel the same way…
Question about check valve.Can not get the Cole-Parmer valve.Seen a few that might work but i think the cracking pressure is to high on the valves.What cracking pressure would you recommend? I was thinking around .25-.50 lbs for cracking pressure. THANKS Great video
Hey Jimmy - thanks for the kind words! Try this link for the new distributor of the check valves: bit.ly/3Pb5BE2
Let me know how it goes!
Well I saw your video one day to late and had just ordered the Trask cover. That being said I really like your idea and I really like the cover from Trask . It wasn’t very hard to remove the original cover thanks to the cobalt mini ratchet you recommended. Had to remove it twice since I forgot to transfer the transmission vent tube from the Harley cover to the Trask 😫.
I agree it feels like the engine runs smoother and has a little more pep, like you it may all be in my head . I’ll be watching to see if any oil accumulates in the filter, I looped the hose up as far as I could and zip tied it to frame under my bike, we will see.
Hey Todd - thanks for the feedback! Let me know how you like the Trask cover. It looks very well made.
Hi Ron, Like your Style for sure! Can you address the tube that is already on the trans cover. I know it does not vent, but why is it there?
Hey Brian - thank you for the kind words! That little tube that’s there from the factory vents the gearbox side of the case. There’s a divider down the middle of the case, under the transmission top cover, and the crankcase side is unvented.
Thanks Ron@@RonsWorkshop
I have found no dipstick venting solution for the 107 M8, anyway running my engine with the dipstick removed showed me that the flow did not increase with RPM's like my 2013 sporty Custom does at the rocker cover vents!@@RonsWorkshop
Have you confirmed if you have crankcase pressure?
I believe it was one of your vids that told me that In May of 2019 Harley started to use an upgraded oil pump. I made sure that my bikes Date of Manufacture was after that, thank you. I will install a catchcan for the breathers and just enjoy my 2019 Street Glide when the temp drops below 90.!!!
Have Fun @@RonsWorkshop
I have another idea, venting the blow by to the trans cover, then venting the trans cover simultaneously then put a can or filter breather. What do you think?
Hey Chuck - I wouldn’t want to vent directly into the transmission to cover because of the likelihood of introducing contaminants into the crankcase.
Hey Ron!
I tried to vent it your way but without a check valve.
After 1 mile i checked for oil coming out of the filter. It was a litte wet but i wasn‘t shure if its oil or not. So i put the filter in a plastic bag. After 3 miles i checked the plastic bag and there was „too much“ oil inside just to ignore.
I am not shure if a check valve would fix the problem of that much oil coming trough the filter.
The oil level is perfekt,… so i actually dont know what to do.
Hey KitzerPlaus - hmmm. Do you have the stock oil pump? Do you have any other sumping symptoms? Some others have gotten a similar outcome but I haven’t yet been able to identify the pattern. Let me know!
@@RonsWorkshop no i upgraded to a complete s&s 124 system incl. Oil pump etc…
My check valve is coming tomorrow. I will upgrade as soon as possible.
I wanted to do this because my pistons of the 107 look awful after 15 k miles. To garantee a long life engine i want to eliminate that problem.
I let you know if the problem with the oil out of the filter was solved 😅
Cheers from Austria
@@RonsWorkshop Hey Ron!
Do you have this seal in front of your oil pump (62400205)? Harley installed it for the touring models since 2019 because of the sumping problems.
Hey KitzerPlaus - I haven’t taken mine apart so I’m not sure. My assembly date is within a week of then the new pump was first officially used, and I have zero sumping issues, so I wonder if I might have ended up with the upgraded pump. Mine is a 2019 also. 🤷🏽♂️
Drop your oil level down a few dots on the dipstick.
Ok I have a catch can when the weather is cool it collects condensate in the can about three oz plus some oil . I don not want to put that water into my oil sump area so I just open vent the trans cover chamber area and service the catch can each time I ride my 2020 road glide
Hey Robert - thanks for sharing that info! What do you have venting into the catch can if you’ve vented the transmission top cover to atmospheric?
Great Video, Where is Ron's workshop located?
Thanks Arlene Wolf. Sunny Florida….but it’s just me working on my projects :)
Hi Ron. Do have an detailed and actual itemised list of all parts required for this mod. Sorry if I've missed it somewhere but can't see in comments
Hey gyourtall - yes, if you view the video description you can see a list of parts with links. On mobile tap “more” or on desktop click “show more”. Let me know if you need more info.
In your parts list do you have a 3/16 hose barb fitting that is stainless problem is is that it takes me right to a quarter inch hose barb fitting stainless. What I want to find is a 3/16 stainless right angle hose barb fitting?
I couldn’t find a 3/16 SS 90. Here’s a brass 1/4” 90° fitting - you could stretch the 3/16” hose onto it if needed. amzn.to/3upyMZy
I’ll let you know if I find a stainless version.
@@RonsWorkshop One of the reasons I really like your videos is that you’re kind of eccentric in the way that you go at this…. Like me😂 i’m on a major search for a 90° medical grade or chrome plated…. I could probably get away with a 1/8 inch but I want to keep it small and very pretty so that when I put it on that chrome cover it looks as good as it can look, make sense?
Totally makes sense! You can also drill the front edge of the transmission top cover and mount it there if you have room.
@@RonsWorkshop That’s what I was thinking but I don’t have a transmission cover right now off the bike that I can really look at but I’m going to put that little guy in the sweetest spot. I think I’ll end up going with that quarter stainless that you listed simply because it was the nicest one that I could find. It’s just too bad the same outfit doesn’t have something identical to it that is right angle that would be really cool.
Awesome Video! I’ve been debating on doing an install video of the Trask or just Modifying Harley’s “China Made” plastic cap. Great content Ron, keep’em Coming 👍🏽
Hey RAIDER WORLD - thanks for the kind words! Let me know what you end up with.
And if you want a channel sticker send me a DM on Telegram or Instagram with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
My 2018 SG CVO doesn’t have any issues at all and it’s a stock M8 117ci from the factory.....the Ventilator intake is clean every time I look at it...no issues so far...I’ve heard there’s a blow by problem with the M8 but mine doesn’t seem to have this issue for whatever reason......I’ve spoken with several mechanics.....and as one would guess there’s some who think you need to use these solutions and some that don’t....I’m not going to mess with mine at least for now....
Hey Gunship Gray - thanks for sharing that info! There are definitely two camps on this issue (need / don’t need). I had noticeable oil in my intake so I went for it. If you ever decide to do it let me know it goes.
I was actually designing the same thing when I came across your video. I run a motorcycle shop in Phoenix and was looking for a system to fix the sumping issue that I encountered last weekend. Both the Feuling and Trask systems are sold out and on back order. I do like the transmission cover method better as well. I was thinking of using a car PCV valve but think they may be overkill and a PITA to figure out what pressure of spring for the valve to release pressure at. I think the check valve is going to be a must as the motor is essentially an air pump. I feel that if there was not one it would try to suck air in with the piston going up. I will of course be using my own 2019 Electra Glide for the test subject. Thanks for the video!
Hey Rob - thanks for the info and feedback! I searched high and low for a suitable metal mini PCV valve to no avail, as that was my first hope as well. The check valve I ended up with and gave a link for has very low breaking pressure (0.18 psi) but high max pressure (50 psi) and a 250° max temp. Based on those specs I felt comfortable with the piece.
Let me know how it goes! And if you want a channel sticker send me a DM on Telegram or Instagram with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
@@RonsWorkshop Finally got to work on my own bike to get this completed. Taking off on a long 7k+ trip for a few weeks. When I get back in town I will update you on the outcome if it helped with the sumping, or if I will be rebuilding a 124 motor! Simple install for anyone that wants to try it though.
Hey Rob have a great trip! Looking forward to hearing about it and how the sumping does.
Question, is there enough room to just install a “grommet “ in the top cover and insert a small pvc valve, then route the hose like back years ago? It would kinda be like the valve cover pvc vent system that has been tried and true for many years. Thanks in advance for any answers.
Hey Bryan - there’s definitely room for that. The only challenging is finding a PCV valve with a low enough opening pressure. Let me know if you give it a try!
Great video but can't find the check valve you finally used.
Hey mikeham610 - if you click Show More down where the video description is, you can scroll down to link to each of the parts. Let me know if that helps…and thanks for the kind words!
I just purchased the Trask Performance Cover.. and then after I saw this video .. NOW I'm wondering if I should tackle this project or continue with the Trask Performance cover....!!!! What you guys think???
Hey Emmanuel - The Trask product is very nice, I just wanted one see if I could do it myself. Let us know what you decide!
If you already bought it might as well use it lol
Absolutely!!
I think if you use the trask, you're spending about 10x more money than you need to... On something that isn't going to perform any better than this DIY project.
@@0351marinemike thanks for the feedback - so far the DIY is working great. A month or so down the road I'll post a follow-up after logging more miles, and in that one, I'll give an update on both the transmission top cover and the intake breather mod.
Hey there. Just did your breather mod and I recon it's improved performance on 3 points. So I have a 17 m8 FLHXS with power cams, race tuner air ram and SE mufflers so...
1. Feels like it now accelerates quicker with more pull.
2. The mufflers certainly have a louder bark
3. And, so when I use to have to drop down to 60 kilometres per hour (or KPH and I am in Australia) 4th gear used to start shuttering so would have to drop down to 3rd. Now, not only does 4th gear handle 60 kph with ease, I was able to drop down to 40 kph in 4th before it starts shuttering like it used to at 60kph. I can actually now drop down to 60 kph in 5th gear and still putt along. I know, I won't be doing that in my regular riding, but what it says to me, is quite a bit of opposing force to the engines power has been aliminated. Cheers Derek. 🍻
Hey Derek - thanks for giving the update with some quantifiable details! That's great to hear. I can feel the difference on mine as well and I've really been pleased with the performance.
If you want a channel sticker send me a DM on Telegram or Instagram with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
Doing this to my 2021 fxst as soon as I get all the parts from your links! Thanks again and I will be looking out for you follow up video of this mod
Hey 18superduty - thanks for the feedback and let me know how it goes! Follow-up video coming soon.
If you want a channel sticker send me a DM on Telegram or Instagram with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
@@RonsWorkshop okay I just followed you on Instagram
So the crank case ventilation systems, assuming the crank case pressures less than atmospheric pressure. I have to stop and think about that for a minute. check valve… good info
The crankcase pressure is positive / greater than atmospheric, which is detrimental. The check valve only allows for vacuum if it happens to be present. The main thing is to vent the pressure. There won’t likely be vacuum (I never detected any) but at least it would be captured if it was there. You might want to watch this one too: th-cam.com/video/JPI3AeMfYeg/w-d-xo.html
I have done the vented top cover like you described. I also believe this is the best location for the vent. Just changed the oil and “filter for the vent”, and have experienced excess oil residue on the swing arm and area near the rear tire splash shield. Not sure what to do to try and eliminate that messy stuff! Suggestions?
Hey Pat - Hmmm...I haven't seen much oil residue on mine. You might try mounting the little pod filter up high, but if you have the check valve it would get backed up on top of it. You could also secure the tube way down low and remove the pod filter, and it would drip occasionally -- but that's not necessarily the best. Let me know what you try and how it goes...
Ron, looking forward to an update on the transmission top cover venting. I have the EVS and I had the fueling vented dipstick. I had to put back the stock dipstick back on because too much oil was coming out of the dipstick/hose/breather and coating the entire underside of the bike. I am running a Woods 22XE cam/lifters and S&S camchest/oilpump/pushrods/chain tensioner/billet tappet cuffs and Andrews crank sprocket. Not sure if that contributes to the oil coming out of the dipstick breather. I have also seen people saying the EVS prohibits vacuum and is bad for the ring seals on the pistons. But I have seen the tops of pistons with an EVS and they look way better than those without.
Hey Brian - working on the follow-up video now. I finally got good info on the various points that were unanswered in the crankcase vacuum video that I posted after this one - so check that one out too if you haven’t yet. The vacuum is definitely good for the motor, but pressure is not. Do you know if you’re having any sumping issues with the external intake breather installed? And did you have any sumping before that? I’m feeling like a good combo is venting the crankcase (with check valve) while retaining the OEM head breathers is a good combo - assuming there are no sumping issues to complicate things. This approach vents the pressure from the crankcase but still allows for the beneficial vacuum.
@@RonsWorkshop Ron, I did not have any sumping issues as far as i know. I watched a few videos on the carbon buid-up on top of the pistons and that is why i did the EVS. I'll wait for your follow up video on the vacuum/pressure issues. It is crazy that venting the oily gasses back into the bike is good for it because it keeps vacuum. I'll stand by for your next video.
Yeah I understand. It ends up being a situation where we have to weigh the options and pick the one we feel most comfortable with, knowing there are some trade-offs.
Hey Brian - I just posted the follow-up video: th-cam.com/video/BaG1VdOFe48/w-d-xo.html
@@RonsWorkshop Sweet. I'll go check it out Ron.
I don't know what kind of plastic the transmission top cover is made from, but you need to be very careful with loctite around some kinds of plastic. ABS in particular is quickly eaten up, at least by the blue stuff (don't know about the red). You might want to check occasionally that the hose barb isn't loosening up - that might indicate the plastic is degrading.
Hey CJ Flintstone - thanks for sharing that info! Definitely worth checking.
So you needed to do the air cleaner external breather and the trans cover?
Great vid by the way. I liked and subscribed
Hey Donald - thanks for the kind words! Check out the follow-up video where I clarify that a bit; th-cam.com/video/JPI3AeMfYeg/w-d-xo.html
Let me know if that helps…
Hi Ron on your suggested check valve the specs say it opens at .18psi and closes at .014 psi and needs 1psi back pressure to operate . The check valve I am currently using has an operating pressure 2.9 psi is this to high for the crankcase vent. Thanks Jim
Hey Jim - I haven’t measured the pressure to know if it will exceed 2.9psi. You could always try it and see if lets the pressure out at idle. I’d prefer a lower opening pressure, but that’s just my personal preference. Let me know how it goes!
Thanks for your prompt reply. I have a dumb question why hasn't anyone hooked a pressure gauge on the transmission cover mod and measured the crankcase pressure. There is absolutely no information out there on what it should be.
@user-fq1gc1wy1t that’s a really great question. I may just try to measure that this weekend - not sure why I never did that before. I’ll let you know what I find.
@@RonsWorkshop thanks. I ordered a pressure gauge today and plan on doing the same. Will definitely let you know my results.
@@BxndjdndndnNdnxnxjx Anything on this?
thank you Ron, I appreciate your reply, yeah, I'm going to switch my A/C, any thoughts on the Track Assault or the new Feuling BA A/C? thanks again
No strong preference - but be sure to check your leg clearance with the air cleaner. That was an issue for me, and the air cleaner I chose gave me knee clearance whereas the other styles would have caused interference. Let me know what you pick - they both look nice, and that style in general gives good airflow because of the amount of filter area.
Great video bud, I ended up getting a different 3/16” check valve, as I blew through it it does check (if that’s the word) but I guess the question I have is should there be much resistance to allow it to vent or hardly any? I’m thinking the latter. Thanks for the video you’re a legend.
Edit: I think what I need is a low pressure opening valve like .10 to .15 lbs pressure, the one I was able to locate are 2.0lb which feel like too much
Hey Romeo - you want it to be as easy as possible to blow through it and allow the air to pass the check valve. The less resistance the better.
And thanks for the kind words!
Probably a foolish question, but having vented the crankcase through the transmission cover (ala Trask M8) is there any need to continue venting through the intake breather bolts? I don't know how to measure the volume of pressure to insure the transmission vent is sufficient and I don't want to blow seals or gaskets. It sure would solve the oil in my air cleaner if I could simply install solid bolts in the breathers.
Hey Jeff - even with the transmission top cover you’d probably get a bit of oil in the throttle body without the external breather mod. Much less, but still some. External breather mod with regular breather bolts might be an option worth trying.
Hi Ron, thanks for your help and informative content, just wondering would 1PSI non return valve be too much? Will the crankcase pressure get up to 1psi on the M8? Curious, if it doesn't then the valve will not lift of its seat to vent the crankcase.
Hey Chris - that is a great question. I’m not sure what the pressure gets up to, but my guess is it will exceed 1 psi. However, the check valves I like have a breaking pressure of just 0.18 psi so there’s no doubt. Here’s a link if you want to check those out: bit.ly/3Pb5BE2
Oil in a vacuum is less frothy created by the balancer also the rings seal better to cylinder walls.
Hey 364rob - agreed! Crankcase vacuum is our friend.
Would that problem have been solved with an external breather system on your intake or do you still feel like the additional transmission breather is necessary? Why both? Or is it really a question of "why not both?"
Hey Andy - good questions. Make sure you watch the follow-up video as well - I actually posted two subsequent videos so far, but the one I’ll link to here answers the key questions. The drawback to the external breather mod on the intake is that it removes the source of vacuum for the crankcase. In the follow-up video I also mention another variation on the theme that I also want to try. The crankcase vent is doing a great job by the way. I’m very pleased with it. Here’s the follow-up video: th-cam.com/video/BaG1VdOFe48/w-d-xo.html
hey Ron, what type of brake / clutch levers do you have? the ones with the holes in them? where did you purchase them? thank you
Hey Michael - in this video you’re seeing my Lucky Speed Shop levers and I bought them directly from them. I really like the levers - I did a full review here: th-cam.com/video/Fo3Oc0iawLs/w-d-xo.html
And I made a set of my own as well, even shorter, and had them Cerakoted: th-cam.com/video/2mUqy6Kq4y4/w-d-xo.html
how can i get a list of parts you used and part numbers , barbed fitting also having engine oil getting into the trans would your fix help my problum ?
Hey Carl - there are links to everything in the video description box. I don’t think this will help the oil transfer issue, but I haven’t researched it to know for sure. Let me know how it goes!
Cars have a PCV valve that works in the same manner as the Trask tranny cover reed valve. A PCV valve allows blow-by gasses (gasses that escape the combustion chamber past the piston rings and into the crankcase) to vent from the crankcase then into the intake so it's environmental friendly. The engine needs to breath, so routing the gasses and oil residue that come out of the heads back into the crankcase is not a good idea. Where is the positive crank case pressure going to go when it's just in a loop? It needs to leave the crankcase and not return. Routing to a vented catch can is a better solution.
Hey Mark - thanks for the input. I agree it needs to be ventilation to atmospheric, and all of my implementations do indeed vent this way.
So Ron, I removed my cover and unlike yours with gasket covering over just the middle chamber, mine has gasket covering over the middle and the right side. I believe this is what others meant by punching holes in the gasket. Am a bit timid about doing that. Don't understand why that side is covered like that in the first place. It would seem that the right side is divided into two separate chambers, the space in the bottom with the vent holes and the space under the cover where I'd be putting the bulkhead fitting. Once I put the gasket back on it would seem that that little compartment with the bulkhead fitting is sealed from the oil/crankcase vents, hence, the question about punching holes in the gasket.
Also, someone talked about absolutely needing the check valve to maintain vacuum pressure to seal O rings or piston rings, I believe, especially if using the external breather system at intake in conjunction with the crankcase breather. Otherwise, it would be an "open breather system" and jacking things up over time. Doesn't the check valve preserve the vacuum and negate the open breather system so you can indeed use both systems?
Lastly, how the heck do you remove that freakin' gasket?
Hey Rob - If the transmission compartments would still be sealed from the crankcase compartment after punching a hole you should be fine. On mine, there was a little tab on the gasket that stuck out of a little notch on the cover, and I was able to coax it out using that and gently pulling. For the check valve - I agree that if a check valve is used on the transmission top cover vent, that would preserve the vacuum and should have nothing to do with the intake breather mod causing it to be a free breather. The breather mod just vents the blow-by away from the intake, so even without the breather mod there is airflow from blow-by. Let me know if my answers make sense.
@@RonsWorkshop Thanks Ron, I just wanted to be sure I was reading replies correctly that they were punching a hole in that part of the gasket to allow access to the breather assembly. Have no idea if it would be sealed from the transmission compartments until I remove the gasket. Guessing since others did so it must be. Man is that a loaded statement.
Lol “loaded statement”. I get get it. Let me know how it goes. All is well with mine.
@@RonsWorkshop Installed the mod, road tested, ran great. Thanks for doing this and saving us some cash. Ill be keeping an eye on the - oil in the intake - issue. Man, it was leaking out of the filter and onto the cam chest. Hope this puts an end to that. If not then I'll go to the external breather system. A guy I ran into had two catch cans attached to braided hoses hanging down right next to his intake and it looked pretty sharp. Instead of hiding it he made it into a fashion statement. The glaring issue, however, is the carbon build-up on the pistons. Bike has 11000 miles so there's bound to be something there. Does it eventually burn off do you know? I've seen something about spraying sea foam through the spark plug hole.
Thanks for the update!! Let me know how the intake looks after some miles. I suspect you’ll see a big difference. I’m not sure if the carbon will burn off - I kind of think not, but at least we can avoid more buildup. I haven’t tried sea foam or anything else like that but perhaps that would help. Regarding the catch cans - my sculpture teacher always said “if you want to hide it, make it obvious”!
If you want a channel sticker send me a DM on Telegram or Instagram with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
Hi Ron, thankyou for sharing all this wisdom to help people like me to tackle these jobs!!! I have a 2018 FLHTK 107.
I've done the intake breather mod, and used 1/4" tubing 2 into 1, went with 3/8 tubing where the 2 go into 1, then to a small filter. Wanting to do the crankcase breather mod, wondering your thoughts, or possible drawbacks to running those 2 lines together into 1 check valve to a catch can. Or if the crankcase is the only one that needs the check valve...
Hey tdbrillo - Thank you for the kind words! Be sure t watch this follow-up video for some important info about using both mods together: th-cam.com/video/BaG1VdOFe48/w-d-xo.html
Regarding a catch can - I’ve just completed a project using a catch can, both mods, and a vacuum source. I’m editing that video now and I’ll release it ASAP.
If you decide to tie them together, you’d probably be fine (especially with the larger tubing you’re using). The video I’m about to release should answer all the questions about the catch can.
And if you want a sticker send me a DM on Telegram, Instagram or Signal with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop