@hankclingingsmith8707 I’ve got all that. I’m assuming you’ve never seen the build videos for my excursion 😉. It’s still loud. I’ve got single shot injectors.
I'm about 80-85ish % with ya on your chart. However, I feel you're missing a few key elements. It's too much for me to blabber about in the comments, so I must succeed...😑😆😉
@@freedomworx That it did that truck was the lowest cost 100K i ever put on a vehicle. In 100K i had a headlight relay (the switch burns out as soon as you let someone else drive it) and had to adjust that stupid throttle idle adjustment (gen 2 if you know the one you know my pain).
I know how your parts got lost in the mail. It's because idaho doesn't exist and so all mail headed there just falls off the side of the earth...cause it's flat. 🧐
@corvairwally I would believe you, but I’ve been there several times. I was once on a motorcycle trip, and I was so happy to cross into Idaho and out of Oregon so I could pump my own gas. Those things stick with you 😂
hold on for a minute ... I live at the border of Brit Columbia Canada and Idaho.. nearest Idaho town is Bonners Ferry ... was just there a few days ago !! IDAHO EXISTS. scouts honor it really does.
1st time watching one of your videos, I watch another dude that does workout videos Ryan Humiston, and I swear you not only look like him but your humor is exactly like his. You made me laugh about 80 times. Educational and funny. Subscribed!
The few times I've pulled a 6.4 powerstroke apart theyve been destroyed. Either by carbon buildup or something relating to coolant getting into the oil. Id love new diesels if they were just more reliable.
I got over 242,000 on mine and still running strong. The 6.4 is very easy to make power, because a complete delete and a very mild tune gets you to 500HP ! All the newer diesels require malicious maintenance and that old BT started life as a 300HP tractor motor that can be neglected and keep on going. They detuned it to put in the pickup so that it didn't kill the transmission!
That is because when you take one to a mechanic to get its issues fixed and the mechanic gives you the estimate, you discover why you got the truck so cheap. The 6.4 was a stopgap measure to have a diesel in a Ford that would meet emissions standards until Ford could finish development of their own engine. There is a reason these things were in production for all of 3 years while the successor has been around for over a decade.
Im glad you made this video, i love my 12v cummins. Its a stick shift, 4x4, dually found it for 9k bone stock. Ive installed compounds, replaced turbos, imstalled a dual mass clutch, and now im on to head studs and pump upgrades. This is really expensive and time consuming. But i wouldnt trade how easy the repairs are for the hp my dads 6.7 makes, hes spent triple just in repairs for failed parts
wow it amazes me how far trucks have come my 2018 F150 is putting 350 🐎 horse and 430 pounds of torque to the ground with just a 93 octane tune. just a decade or so ago u had to have a Diesel to make that much. We are really spoiled horsepower wise with modern truck! Not to mention modern Diesels putting out 500 horse and 1200 pounds of torque!! unfortunately emissions systems and def have killed there reliability. Great video brother I'm not really a Cummins guy but I enjoy this video and look forward to more
My ‘18 halfton ford with 5.0 out pulls the 05 dodge with 5.9 Cummins I had once. Both in take off and up hills. Sure, it revs out more but still, goes to show how overrated Cummins and other diesels are compared to modern gassers. If I was pulling trailers very often I would go with a diesel but for pulling a heavy load a few times a year, having a stinky noisy Cummins is impractical and not economical any anyway. Way quicker, more comfortable, and fun to drive than a big turf with a tractor engine
Well having worked for Briggs and Stratton as a Co-op while is was engineering school, I can tell you that just about anything in that engine that makes you scratch your head, is the way it is to reduce manufacturing costs 😉
Make millions with a 12 valve every year still ... But In first or second gear and Almost at idol Behind Drilling Rigs. Alot of drilling rigs came with 12 valves not just my trucks so that makes me happy ....I hear that sound in my Dreams.
For sure agree dude. 80% of guys pull their fuel plate, crank the pump, bump the timing, block the wastegate and go around like "I have 450whp" lol. On stock injectors and stock 56/58 turbo lol. I've got a dyno sheet 513/1032 somewheres here, 64/68 hx35/he351 hybrid, 5x14s with needle work and edge filter removal, conservative 18°, benched 215 pump, 4ks, hamilton valve springs and top hat seals, backyard port matched exh manifold, 1/2" fuel lines and -8an fittings in place of all the 1/8" orifice banjos, hamilton pushrods, and all the other mild-build typical stuff, modified lift pump, intake heat shield, turbo and exhaust manifold blankets, billet intake plenum and tappet cover, extra crank vent, all regular afc stuff etc etc. But stock head, valves, bottom end, injection pump(aside from gov springs), 470,000kms, does blow blue and leaks oil, about a quart/litre every 2 full tanks, but gets 530 miles per tank mixed city hwy, starts through winter exact same as summer, I'd literally let the dodge truck around it fall apart and swap my engine into an f350 with a blown 6.0 or 6.4, just take it with me through different trucks. See how many that engine can outlast lol
Pro mechanic here. I love my carbide scrapers. They can be used on aluminum with a careful touch and the proper technique. I use my scrapers so much I dull them on occasion. Get a diamond field sharpener. Sharpen by holding each of the three sides flat against the sharpener. I like to use heavy pressure because of the hardness of carbide. Once you get the cutting edges sharp, run each edge across the fine side of the sharpener at a 45 degree angle with very light pressure to remove the bur.
A p pump 12 v bottom end can handle about 700hp stock, all you need is 3-4k gov springs, valve springs, arp head studs, 0 fuel plate( or no plate), a nice set of 120 horse injectors, 4 or 5 in turbo back straight pipe, nicely tuned pump, and a 3rd gen turbo (or one of your choosing), and you can make a clean very reliable 450-550 hp with over 1000ft lbs of torque, and also a tranny that’ll hold this power, but it is very easy and very cheap to build one of these pigs, love the vids please correct if I’m wrong but I’ve seen and helped build multiple p pump 12v to rippers ( can’t say the same for VE pump 12v, there just pigs )
You need everything I listed to make a reliable, streetable, clean 550HP or 700HP. I don’t spend money unless I have to 😉. It might be easy, but it isn’t cheap.
@@freedomworx yes totally agree, that would make a truck drive like a dream, and run like a top 365 days out of the year, but we are normal, everyday drivers that tow wheelers on weekends, if your not doing boosted launches and already have the normal upgrades such as, lift pump, egt-coolant-trans temp gauges, and have a manual tranny , but we have all gotten very lucky and scored on two built trannys for under 2000$ a peice still rippin three years later, but a normal dude with common sense can do a minimal build and keep the motor alive. Keepin it cheap and driving moderate, again these vids are super informational, love it keep it up 👍
Wrong stock bottom end will handle over 1000hp on a 12v. A 5.9common rail will only handle 700hp because of the rods. That's why they put 12v rods on the common rails. Tons of 12v pulling trucks over 1000hp with stock bottom ends
@@bigmurph1447 damnnnn, I’ve heard of people running shitloads of power through stock bottom ends, I’ve just never witnessed a 12v with over 650hp, thanks man 👍ima read up on some builds.
NV5600 Trans ... if you already have one installed previously, That will change the end price. This is a great video though. Hilarious and educational.
There is no comparison between a 6BT and a modern Powerstroke or Duramax. The Cummins was designed as an industrial engine in the 80's with little to no emissions requirements to meet. The Powerstroke and Duramax engines were specifically designed as light truck engines with weight, efficiency, and emissions standards to consider. And as far as power and efficiency, the 6 BT cant hold a candle to a modern Duramax or Powerstroke. Don't be a simp. I own a 7.3 Powerstroke, an LBZ Duramax, a 6BT and a Commons Rail 5.9, so I am not biased. If you want a tractor or boat engine, buy a 6BT, but don't be deceived into thinking that you are gong to buy a 2nd Gen Ram truck and get 6.7 Powerstroke Super Duty or 6.6 Duramax 2500HD performance out of it. That's a pipe dream.
@@Bill-sp8kb like I said the, the Cummins was designed for medium duty applications from the get go. It was never intended to be stuck in a pickup truck. The Duramax and Powerstroke engines, for the most part, were specifically designed for a pickup truck. They get detuned and stuck in larger trucks, but that’s not what they are designed for. And yes, Banks does produce Duramax engines for military marine applications, but that doesn’t mean they are ideal for the application. It just means Gale Banks is an awesome salesman, and the government is ran by idiots. I have worked for the government for 21 years, including 5 in the Marine Corps, and can confirm that U.S. government employees, are in fact… idiots. 🤓
I was always on the fence with diesels, but I still remember the day Mozart's Lacrimosa played in my head when I saw a single cab shortbed D150 Cummins swap with a turbo bolted straight to the exhaust manifold timed right at head, piped directly to the intake. It was so beautiful. So simple. Just a turbo, a short piece of pipe, and two short rubber hose connectors. Straight out the turbo and literally straight into the throttle body. Perfection.
Good video, I've spent 15k+ on just making sure my 12 valve runs good for another 30 years. It was bone stock, probably didnt need to mess with it, if you ever driven a stock p7100 you know the struggles. Banks twin ram, ex manifold, afc live, 58mm turbo, exhaust brake, intercooler, headjob, banks intake, ARP studs, straight pipe, gauges, ETC. Its ready for the end times but it probably makes 250-3500 hp for ever.
ive been slowly but surely building my 97 7.3 into a (more) reliable motor. been a fun project to say the least, every time a part fails, i do my research and replace it with something tougher or more efficient. the fluidampr harmonic balancer and melling LPOP was the last real battle I had with the truck. injector o-rings and valve cover gaskets are coming up next. i did wonder for a while if i wouldn't have been better off 12v swapping it but the money never looked right when you consider all the supporting mods into that swap, especially when i already had a running truck producing acceptable power. i appreciate the video my man.
Fixing the 7.3L will be cheaper by a huge margin. Pretty much everyone underestimates the budget and time required to do a swap. Just keep throwing money at the Powersmoke. 👍
I can’t speak for the other makes, but as a 6.0 guy, I can tell you $20k for 400hp is WAY too high. Most expensive thing 6.0 needs are NEW o-ringed heads. Stock fueling system, turbo, tranny are all fine at that level. Not much more $ will get you 500hp. Simple compound kit gets you 600hp+. It’s the reason 6.0’s have a following. They’re cheap and can make great power reliably. They’re super responsive and rev high. Fun engine. 💪🏼🇺🇸🦅
@@hopingforthebest1.9not having electronically controlled injection is more than an Achilles heel, lol. It’s a deal breaker for me. Not interested in driving an inefficient smoke box. And if you turn the smoke down with AFC Live, you go back to turtle mode, right? High price to pay for not understanding how to work on the simple and humble 6 Liter.
The 12 valve is not the most reliable light duty engine. The 6-71 Detroit diesel is far more reliable. I had 2 identical push boats one had a pair of 12 valve Cummins and the other had a pair of 671 Detroits. The 671s were naturally aspirated with N75s and made around 250 HP. The 12 valve Cummins were turbocharged, non intercooled, and rated for 260HP. Both boats got about the same number of hours and moved the same barges on the same bodies of water. In 5 years I had 8 blown up Cummins and only 1 Detroit that wasn’t even blown up it just was in the shop for an overhaul because it was burning a ton of oil. The 671 is more reliable then the 12 valve and it has replaceable liners so you can freshen it up in place between rebuilds. I’m not a fan of the Detroit diesels GM has made some terrible Detroit diesels like the 92 series ticking time bomb. But the inline 671 at a reasonable HP level in my experience is very reliable. Not saying the Cummins is a POS by any stretch of the imagination, but the 671 is certainly a better engine if the additional weight isn’t a concern.
You are comparing a 2-Stroke 426CI purpose built medium duty engine to a 359CI 4-stroke light duty engine. They are not competitors and not even in the same category. The 71 Series Detroit is a great platform, but it is not a light duty engine. You might as well be comparing the 5.9 Cummins to a DT466.
Given what I put my 5.9 and 6.7 through, I can't imagine 8 of them blowing up... my 5.9 maxed out at 590/1200 on dyno, and I ran it for 160k mi at 550 horse, more in the 6.7. granted I don't use all that every running moment, but if you keep them under 200° F and the right oil (imperative), they last.
@@Faolan161 All I can tell you is these were stock factory new complete engines (oil pan to air filter). They ran 15w-40 Shell Rotella, got weekly oil changes, ran 24hours a day 7 days a week half the year and they lasted about 6-8 months before either oil consumption became excessive, or they had a major failure (like a rod through the side of the block). We just replaced them with a brand new Cummins complete engine when they failed. I’m not saying they are bad engines just that they don’t last anywhere as long as other engines in the 250 HP class. As for what the operators did to these things I couldn’t tell you. Most of these guys are animals so they certainly didn’t treat them nicely. However the same animals ran the other boat (with the Detroits) on the same jobs, moving the same dump scows and that didn’t eat anywhere near as many engines. It’s the only apples to apples comparison I can make, we run Cats, Cummins, Detroits, EMDs, John Deeres, and even a few Kubotas. However they are not running in the same equipment doing the same job and being used by the same people. The two little push boats were identical and in my opinion a fair comparison. I could say the John Deere 4045s are the best small engines because on my gensets they seem to go about 45,000 hours between overhauls. However this wouldn’t be a fair comparison as they are the only ones powering this type of genset. Even comparing them to the Kubotas of the portable gensets wouldn’t be fair.
@@Trump985 Something's gotta be wrong in there to blow up that many Cummins engines. I run a 4 cyl Cummins 4.5l in a skid steer as hard as I can, and the oil even stays clean at 500-700 hrs between oil changes, 4000 it's on it now. That's tougher than the boat work. Something's off, Cummins handle massive workloads just like yours all around the world. Of course, I'm the kind of guy who looks for the root cause of breakage so I can repair or redesign with proper parts so it doesn't melt itself down... I hope you've found a better solution, that gets expensive fast.
I had a Case 2096 with the 5.9 Cummins…the engine was phenomenal!…the tractor not so much…Case put them in most of their construction equipment that was 20 ton and under…they had them in their Maxxum 5100 and 5200 series…super engines!..
I never understand why people try to juice up 12 valves... The best thing about them is that they're tireless dogs. Add oil. Add diesel or jet fuel. Go for literally forever.
@@freedomworx Dep[ends, if you just want a reliable work truck that will get you from point A to point B for decades with very few problems they are great, if you want a sport truck they suck in stock form.
I have a 4.0 inline 6 in my 2006 jeep just because the engine is reliable and easy to work on. On the highway I'm doing 70mph no problem. I agree with you keep it simple
I worked as a Heavy equipment mechanic for Dresser Equipment Co back in the early 80's. Dresser was the Construction Equipment Division of International Harvester after a split in the company due to poor finances. Dresser had the rights to use IH engines for a number of years, but those rights ended int he 80's and they moved to engines supplied by Cummins. I received factory training on those engines at that time, and compared to the old OH engines we were used to these were a pile of crap, engineered mainly to reduce the cost of building, not for strength or durability. Case in point, sleeveless cylinders; aslo no replaceable cam bearings. Cheap, cheap, cheap. We hated 'em. Except for one thing, they turned out to be great engines, far far better than we thought they would be. As you've noted, they've proven themselves to be very durable engines, funny considering how cheaply they are built. I would still prefer an old IH engine, and in fact for the same time period as these I would go with an old 6.9l Power Stroke. I can still remember driving my old man's Ford with the 6.9 with Banks turbo kit installed, and walking past the Dodges on uphill runs pulling a 5th wheel TT. The 6.9 is a heavy duty design, far better than the Cummins, but they had problematic fuel injection system and glow plug control, both of which can be corrected with after market parts. Or at least could be, I don't know if the after market is still supporting them, that was a long time ago. There was also the DT360, again, a much better design; built like a full size heavy duty diesel engine. A guy could choose far worse for a project than an old DT 360.
@@freedomworx well, IH knows how to cast seriously strong iron blocks. Even their gas V8's, 345's & 392's, were known for going 250k or more miles, easily.
You keep telling yourself that. You think I just like to spend money that I don’t need to? I’m trying to help you out. You can learn from it, or you can get yourself into something you can’t afford to finish.
@CadorSeeliger I literally made this video for people like you. You have no idea what it actually takes to make those numbers and keep the engine alive.
i largely agree with your conclusions, dude. fun video to watch and learn from. im into 12v's b/c im an engine swap guy. Would be curious to see your chart if you set the purchase price of the trucks/engine's to zero in your f(x).
Diesels aren’t really my thing, but they’ve been on the fringe of my interest for a while now. This was an entertaining entry into the subject. Great video style. It’s also cool to see something other than a LS go into the service truck. You got yourself a new subscriber!
Loved the video. The 12 valve is my favorite engine by a mile. I pulled one out of a ford box truck to swap into my dually square body. Timing cover plaque states 230HP @2200rpm and 605ft lbs of torque @1400rpm. It moves the truck along pretty nice, although I've always wanted to turn it up. But so far I've left it alone because I absolutely need that stock, million mile reliablity. But it's tempting...
Kdp got my 1st gen at 190k ish previous owner payed to have it fixed. They jb welded the cracked case and billed for doing it right, left the pin in the oil pan for me to find. The crank gear slipped ~ ½ a tooth retarded the cam. Stock 160/400 tune made 491.0@1846 178.3@1976 to the tire. At~500k mi it got an overhaul crank was bent and mains where tapered from1 @0.0045 through 4@0.0035 5-7 @0.0035 so would pass mustard as factory new.. 5 and 6 where 0.003 out of round and took 0.020 over to clean up. Point is theas are tuff motors. Put the 2nd gen on a 3k lbs trailer (16500lbs total)and went for a 550mi drive to seat the rings
Lisle makes a version of the old Sunnen style hone and they sell it for less than a couple hundred bucks. If your bore is still within size spec for your current pistons and you just want to true it back up you can get it down to tenths of taper with one, and if there's any oval shape to your bores it'll make them round again too. They're supposed to go in a machine to get the perfect crosshatch, but you can do just fine putting it into a hand drill. I did the cylinders on my tractor engine because they needed re-sleeving and I've had zero issues with oil consumption, so I know the crosshatch turned out fine. If you get under half a thou taper you can spin it to 8 grand no problem. Since this is a diesel at 4 grand, you'll have zero issues with that 1 thou of taper and it would be overkill trying to exceed it. You know it's not out of round by more than that either, which is also fine. You'll probably distort the cylinders more than that torquing down the head.
Yes I’m all here for the build had a 99 v8 was gonna diesel swap but had to sell since I was in the military but in the process of getting out now and can’t wait to build this bad boy and better yet with you helping me. 👀
Very good video. Im currently on my journey to a big diesel truck. My dad has a 7.3 powerstroke 1997 he likes, the truck looks petty cool. I myself starting fresh am looking for a diesel truck to get into and im stuck between 12v or a 7.3. Starting fresh before buying books and spending hours and hours researching, which do you think is best to jump into, my goals are to have a very reliable truck to work around the farm( horse trail, hauling a 2 ton mini escavator), keep kinda like a classic, and daily driver.
Honestly, whichever one you like the most. And buy one that someone else has already spent money on😎. Let someone else spend the money on tuning, exhaust, trans, etc.
The stock 6.0 PSD is 325 HP. Fix the oil coiler, fuel pressure regulator and don't tune them for more HP and they will be OK. But that is going to be about 4-5 K in parts alone.
My 53 Ford F600 4x4 and My RV both have 12 valve Cummins. They run on anything except gasoline and i don't do crazy things with them so hoping for a million miles.
Amen to the ball hone, brother! I've used both, prefer the ball hone, and had the same good results with both. Keep on building. Do some small Toyota forklift diesel converted to work in a truck diesel stuff...... Sub'd. I like your style.
@@freedomworx Yes sir. Mostly 4-cylinder stuff with smaller pump and injectors since they're set for maximum =torque RPM. Nissan has diesel forklift engines as well. There are Deutz diesel engines, baby Cummins, and others in ground service equipment. The overland Expedition can have a Toyota overland build with a diesel engine built from a forklift. Will this work? I don't know, but a build like this would suit your style of lets go for it. Forklifts and ground service equipment like Tugs have these mechanical diesels. I don't know, something to think about when you wonder why you contemplate other things.
Hones are really meant to make a bore round and take the taper out while taking them to size as well and to give them a good finish, that is actually a degalzer but what ever😶
Let me ask you this, why do machine shops use a hone after they bore a cylinder? Why not just bore the cylinder and send it out the door? I mean, it’s already straight and true, right??? There are very few instances where a machine shop will use a hone to true up a cylinder. They will bore the cylinder to true it up, and then use a hone to achieve the proper surface finish, just like I said 🥱
My philosophy has always been get what you can out of your vehicle/engine until something breaks, then mod it. My Duramax is at 753,000 miles with a few water pumps and one set of injectors (Yes still original CP3 pump). Tuned of course but she keeps going, trans too. My close friend has a 2012 Cummins and has done so much work to it.... and suffered several breakdowns, mostly because of the work that he thought would be benificial.
The Duramax trucks don’t get enough credit for their reliability and longevity. My daily is a 2006 LBZ truck. 190k miles with nothing more than glow plugs and fuel filter housing seals.
@@freedomworx mine blew the HG at 193k, but it was also 500hp. And it still pulled my 9k camper on a 3k mile trip threw CO and SD with a blown HG. I love my LBZ. It's a much better truck over all then anything that came with a Cummins in it.
Great vid, man. I learned a lot. Question: Who do you recommend for a built transmission to handle that kind of power? I'm not going that high with my 7.3 PS, but i like to overbuild.
That Isky tool is pretty neat. I did the same thing with my 12 valve, except I did it in the truck. Had to make shorter handles for it because the original handles hit the firewall.
Still pumping out 160 crank horsepower 30 years later 😉. Doesn’t sound so impressive when I put it like that. My 54 year old Jeep Dauntless 225 V6 is still pumping out 160HP… 54 years later 😎
The reason a 6BT is the best diesel for a pickup is the "6" part. Inline 6's are just so easy to work on. You can do a head gasket on an inline 6 in the same time it takes to do injectors on a V8. This is what actually sold me on inlines, and it's part of the marketing and why they were made that way.
The back 3 cylinders on my 2006 5.9 are underneath the cowl. Pretty sure I could swap a set of injectors on my Duramax faster than I Could swap injectors on my 5.9 CR. You don’t even need to pull the valve covers on the Duramax. But then again, I’ve never had to do injectors in the Duramax. So I could be wrong 🤷🏻♂️
@@freedomworx I have a 12 valve that's swapped into a ford, nothing under the cowl and the injectors are in the open, just pull the vanity cover and fuel lines and then swap injectors - haven't actually worked on a 24 valve but good point about removing the covers. I've never done injectors on a duramax, but I have on a 6.5 detroit, and it turned me against V8's 🤣. Have to remove the fender liners, turbo, intake horn, and then you're still twisting and contorting to reach them. Get a special wrench so you don't hurt the return lines... It was an all day job, takes 30 minutes on a 12 valve. Hopefully duramax's are a little easier but I guess I'd have to try one. It's crazy because I've worked on plenty of gas V8's and they usually aren't that bad (other than still having 2 banks so still requiring twice the work) but the diesel V8's I've worked on so far have been a nightmare
Man you and me have similar tastes. I like tinkering with trucks and reloading and the 2a as well. I have a 550 on my bench along with a few other presses. The Dillon is the only kinda progressive press I own though.
I like any diesel that can pull 30k gross every day and hit 1 million miles with only oil/filter changes. In this case, that is the 12V/P7100. Truck was $2500 in 2007, still runnin.
@@freedomworx I don't use automatics. I run the NV4500 with a 5th gear modification. Before that it backed off the nut in 5th gear pulling a load of drill pipe. I have rebuilt the 46re,47re,48re for friends every 100k miles. I've never put all the fancy sonnax parts in etc, but that may increase the mileage. If I was going to run an Auto it would be the Allison 3000 series, rugged duty, same ones they run on trash trucks etc.
My daily is a Duramax, and that Alison 1000 is the tits. Your out an Allison 1000 next to a 46,47,48, and it makes you wonder how the Dodge transmission last as long as they do. Tiny little critters.
Bought my first cummins truck, 97 12v, has arp heads, and sure fire ring head, and new holset hx35, i dont know what size injectors are on it but was told they aren't stock so woohooo, I'm very happy with it. Paid 6200 bucks for it 5 speed manual. I just needed a good farm truck so I probably won't do anything to it, has plenty of get up and go for my needs. But watching this video and learning about the killer dowel pin, I will most definitely look into any aftermarket stuff that might fix that, so if anyone has any suggestions please let me know.
Yeah, you need to make sure the KDP gets addressed. You've probably got leaks on the front end that need to be addressed anyway while you have it apart. 😉
A ball pein hammer or a hammer and punch is plenty good enough to bang up the hole in the cover so that the dowel pin can't pass through easily....then check the case bolts, they can come loose too and get into places they should not be.....
Excellent video. From someone not on the bandwagon i can agree with practically everything you said. I dont think ive ever heard anyone push the lbz that hard but id say theyre solid to 550. Hurts a little to not see the idi's represented, you can certainly buy and build a 7.3 idi to get 300hp for under 10k no problem, does take a fair bit more work than all the others though, assuming NA, add another couple grand to hit 400. Perks are theyre quiet, second best sounding engine behind the 6.0, and they were put in the best looking pickups.
Yeah, all of those numbers are obviously debatable. I was just trying to get folks to think about the entire picture, the entire truck, before deciding that they "had to have a 12 valve"
With minimal diesel knowledge from me... what's your opinion on P pump 24V? and re engine swaps, 4BT are more popular in some cases, to at least slightly reduce weight. Turns out they even make a 16V 4BT too but they're hens teeth.
I'll stick with my OBS Chevy with a 12 Valve!!! Good Chevy Body and interior with a Bulletproof motor that makes awesome power, sounds amazing and if you double up on sound deadening inside the cab then noise isn't an issue... and its not about HP... its about Torque 💯
I think the international DT360 is actually better in that it has wet liners and can be inframe overhauled. It’s just not as popular because it was not used in a pickup truck.
I found a 96 f-350 dually with 5 speed, custom racks, bumper, and a 5.9 cummins swap has 250k miles on the body not sure about the engine for $20k on autotrader wish I could afford it.
@@freedomworx i think I have two of them working or there must be a bad sort. I have much better starts without the relay powered up. Sounds like the cylinders are fighting each other. It’s on the list to fix tho. 45 degrees doesn’t get me far in the year in Michigan. I drive her until 1st snow. I’m afraid once I open her up the money will fly
Love your videos and your sens of humor. I have inherited my late fathers 2002 2500 sport with the 24 valve vp44 he already had it tuned and tickled up to about 450 hp not sure i believe it.
Dude I really appreciate your videos! What would a VE44 pump need to get to 300-350 whp? I have the 5 speed so I know I would need an upgraded the clutch to start. I also plan on going with the piston style lift pumps with a weaker spring.
@@dabadcod4 Power Driven Diesel sells a 300-350HP package for 1st Gen Cummins trucks. powerdrivendiesel.com/product/power-driven-300-350-hp-power-package-for-91-5-93-1st-gen-5-9l-12v-dodge-cummins/
Well done sir! Just curious though, do you have a breakdown of the costs in the chart? (The way you broke down the 12v was perfect, I’m curious how you came to those numbers for the other engines, particularly the 7.3 power stroke). 👍
I do not. That could be several videos all by itself. But I have a 7.3L Excursion that makes about 500WHP. Tell me what your goal is or what your budget is, and I can probably give you some options/advice.
@@freedomworx honestly some details on your excursion build would about hit the nail on the head👍 500-550hp 7.3 is the dream man- plenty to have fun, but can still tow.
I can link the videos where we built the engine. But understand that 500WHP is downhill with a tailwind on the dyno for my setup. It’s somewhere in the 480-500WHP range most likely. But you can’t tow at anywhere near that power level. Your budget will really dictate this. It’s pretty cheap to make in the low 400s. Stage 1.5 Injectors, Stage 1 Turbo, tuning. Anything beyond that and you need a better lift pump, HPOP, transmission, etc. It goes from $3k for 425HP, up to like $13k for 500HP. It’s a huge jump. th-cam.com/video/WzvIbKeehmo/w-d-xo.htmlsi=smkhoLPVYIB1dnwU
I’ll say this I’ve seen a lot of people who love the coyote engine from ford but my experience with one was at first positive then went to the negative once i started seeing every issue it had to offer between 2016-2022 we ended up trading it in for a 22 ram 1500 big horn 4x4 which has been more reliable than the ford and the crazy thing is the ford was well maintained, regular oil changes, tire rotations, replacing brakes and rotors when it was needed, but the truck had a little gremlin that would see if one thing was fixed it would break another thing til it got to the point of the truck becoming unreliable due to overheating and because I was diagnosed with cancer in 2022 that would be a big problem since my appointments weren’t exactly a quick trip one of the medical facilities was 15-25 mins from me but the other was around 35-40 minutes from me which would be a huge problem if we broke down on the way there so that prompted us to finally trade in the ford for a ram 1500 4x4 big horn with a 5.7 Hemi and so far it has been an amazing truck, it’s got everything we could ask for, independent climate controls for driver and passenger, a 9ch Harmon kardon audio system with a 12.0 inch infotainment system although we might have the larger 14.0 inch screen I’d have to measure it regardless it’s useable as the truck has a backup camera, and does gps which is nice, it has satellite radio the truck also features a 120v inverter so you can plug your wall charger in for your phone or whatever device you need to charge such as a laptop, tablet etc so it’s nice and the truck has pretty decent ground clearance for a stock 4x4 truck so definitely one of my new favorites!
I’d hope a 2022 truck is still reliable. I daily a 2006 Duramax with 190k miles on it. It’s never been to a shop in 18 years. I’ve replaced 2 glow plugs, 2 front wheel hubs, and seals on the fuel filter housing. That’s a total of $550 in parts and about 6 hours of labor in 18 years. 😉
Mine is the 24v. Bigger number=Better. Mine was so high tech and clean that it came from the factory WITHOUT a catalytic converter. I have no idea what kind of HP it makes, but I have been pretty cheap with the upgrades. I first got TST to reprogram the ECM for a power increase and they lowered the idle speed. Then I got DD Stage III injectors some kind of modified HX 40 turbo, a fancy exhaust manifold and then a TST Competition box with a custom program for sled pulling. The most expensive upgraded were to the clutch and 5-speed.
Here an interest fact about 24Vs, and this is basically applicable to all 4 valve per cylinder diesels. They didn’t go to 4 valves for more flow, they went to for valves so they could put the injector in the center of the cylinder, because that reduced exhaust emissions and helped them meet more stringent emissions standards 🤓
@@freedomworx Years ago before my turbo upgrade I was running the stock turbo and racing another truck one night I pegged my 50psi boost gauge. Then heard a loud noise and my engine started running really rough. Turns out my turbo exploded and pieces of it got stuck in the intake valves. That was my most expensive whoopsie. Had to have the head rebuilt and a new turbo installed. They also found the exhaust manifold was cracked and replaced with a 3 piece one. Still running like a Champ with over 200k miles.
I like how he leaves the option of a 24 valve and the fact that you can make a a reliable 500 to 600 horsepower easily with the 6.1 stroker 12 valve and you can still make a 24 valve run with no wires fully mechanical by putting a p pump on it
I also left out the 6.4 Powerstroke which will make more power for less than every other engine on the list. There is nothing economical about a 6.1 Stroker or P-Pumping a 24 Valve.
I’ve been looking into doing a similar build, why did you go with the 12v rather than the 24v? From what I’ve gathered for the same price you can get more hp.
This may sound stupid but how does the 6.5 Detroit stack up in that comparison chart. I hear mixed opinions on this engine some saying it's the worst thing ever and some saying it's not bad if you maintain it. There are a few people with them pushing the 500 HP mark but it's not super common but since that engine was being sold against the 5.9 at the time I do wonder how it stacks up if at all.
No comparison honestly. They are finicky and underpowered. You can flog a 12 valve and abuse it, and it’ll still pull harder and longer, by a huge margin.
I need to pull a 12 valve out of a totalled 1991.5 first gen to put into long term storage. (Neighbors called the county code enforcement on me even though I had the truck hidden out back with a car cover on it) anyways. I had the truck towed to a buddy's place, he's buying the rest of the truck as a parts truck. Any advice for transportation and storage would be appreciated.
As the owner of a 95 12 valve that dynos at 540hp/1236 ft-lbs I started to add up costs over the last few years to prove your costs were excessive and honestly I'm at about $6k but that includes swapping my nv4500 for a nv5600 and me doing all of the work including the trans rebuild. These dinosaurs are expensive to keep alive 😂
@freedomworx there certainly has been some part increases but I purchased a lot of it on black Friday, or other sales. My hx35/40 hybrid (to retain exhaust brake) was also built by me so that was only about $600. Southbend street dual disc got used like new for $500. All about those deals!
I just want to do 65-70MPH up a hill a max GVWR(truck camper). I'm stuck at 55MPH. How much HP do I need? I have the original rebuilt automatic transmission.
Really depends on the truck you have. We are talking max HP numbers. Two trucks can have identical max HP numbers but not pull a hill the same. Gearing, number of gears in the transmission, etc. will make a huge difference. As will the elevation you are operating at.
so did dynamite diesel cover the lost injectors since they disappeared during return shipping? was there a physical hole in the box or were they simply never put in the box? i feel like we need more info on this story
For that million dollars I'm willing to engineer a giant turbo with a pre burner that burns fuel just to spool up the massive turbo. You'd be sitting at the light and a boosted civic pulls up you just hit a button to light your turbo at idle on your diesel truck
In my defense, I only spelled it wrong 1 out of 2 times. 😂😂. I saw it while editing. Figured it’d just be a good Easter Egg for someone. Nothing I could do about it at that point. Good eye 👍
Your wrong. The first now 5.9 Cummins engine was originally the natural aspirated 147 horsepower engine in International hay equipment. The 1976 to 1984 bale wagons and 1975 to 1984 swathers had the 147 hp Cummins motor. When Cummins added the turbo, it became the 160 hp engine. Then in 1985, it became the 5.9 L6 Cummins. Same engine, different applications. I have worked on these engines in both applications for over 35 years. Same auxillary parts and internals are identical. The injection pump, injectors, exhaust manifold and intake manifold plate are the only difference. Have converted many 147 hp engines into the 5.9 liter 12 valve engines and put them into pickups and medium class trucks.
Thought I wanted a fummins built with a rebuilt drop in engine. Dang it I thought I finally decided what I wanted. But I want reliability and value more than power, I guess 300-350hp is enough. I wanna move into a toy hauler. Thought I wanted a 7.3 powerstroke to tow it. Nah too old, will have to keep working on it and learn about all the small issues that could leave me stranded. 6.7 powerstroke 2015+? Expensive, it's gonna need the upper oil pan gasket replaced, and it's a huge PITA. Maybe duramax? The new ones are about as bad? LBZ seems much harder to find than 7.3PS.
@@freedomworx probably built 4R100. Looks like 7.3psd crate engines are more expensive (~$11,000) than 12v cummins (CPP takeout $5,299), but it would be close with the DCS conversion kit, does that seem right?
@autismion whatever you think the swap would cost, go ahead and add a minimum of 25%. And there is no reason to spend $11k on a create engine. Mine makes 500HP to the tire and has 250k miles on it. There are lower mileage used engine out there pretty cheap. Just my $0.02. And a 4R100 is pretty tough. They can handle 350HP easily in stock form.
Keep up the good work you’re going to blow up at some point soon.
Let's hope so. I'm ready to retire from corporate life 😉 Thanks for the kind words 👍
12 valves help marriages last longer because you can't ever hear your wife while your driving it.
Same with my 7.3L Power Stroke 😂
@@freedomworxyou can put high pressure cross over hose and full fuel line cross over quites them way down
@hankclingingsmith8707 I’ve got all that. I’m assuming you’ve never seen the build videos for my excursion 😉. It’s still loud. I’ve got single shot injectors.
My 6.0 Powerstroke, straight piped, is equally as loud!😂
I'm about 80-85ish % with ya on your chart. However, I feel you're missing a few key elements.
It's too much for me to blabber about in the comments, so I must succeed...😑😆😉
“700hp isn’t streetable with a single”
My dumbass daily driving a big single 900hp duramax can absolutely verify that is true. It’s a rough life
It’ll spool up…tomorrow 😉😂
@@freedomworx🤣🤣💯💯💯Laggy pig .. big sucker single compared to compounds 🤣🤣
@@freedomworx s476 on a CR 5.9 with some big injectors doesnt take too long just a little smokey
Piss of Al Gore and the EPA, you say? Count me in.
"off" 😉
Piss on em lol
@@legionofanon SOUNDS LIKE A EXELLENT TIME TO VISIT california.
30 +years no dowel pin problem, gobs of torque, 20+MPG, and,,,,,,,,,,,,,,NO expensive repairs except 3 gallons of Delo once a year!
If you didn't have the KDP issue, you just got lucky. It's a very common failure.
Kdp, simple fix.
400ft lbs isn't considered a lot of torque especially for a diesel
All depends on what application, cummins were detuned for light truck duty due to transmission limitations.
They didn’t detune them enough obviously. Those transmission would fail if you looked at the the wrong way 😂
12 valve saved my marriage, before getting it my wife tried to talk to me on road trips.
Yep. And saving a marriage is saving money. So it basically made you money 🤓
@@freedomworx That it did that truck was the lowest cost 100K i ever put on a vehicle. In 100K i had a headlight relay (the switch burns out as soon as you let someone else drive it) and had to adjust that stupid throttle idle adjustment (gen 2 if you know the one you know my pain).
The 12v was my first experience with a diesel engine in a pickup so it'll always have a sweet spot with me
It’s a great engine. 👍
I know how your parts got lost in the mail. It's because idaho doesn't exist and so all mail headed there just falls off the side of the earth...cause it's flat. 🧐
😂😂. So basically Montana is the edge of the earth... Got it!
Yes exactly idaho is fake. No one move here its fake and we are 100% full 😂
@corvairwally I would believe you, but I’ve been there several times. I was once on a motorcycle trip, and I was so happy to cross into Idaho and out of Oregon so I could pump my own gas. Those things stick with you 😂
hold on for a minute ... I live at the border of Brit Columbia Canada and Idaho.. nearest Idaho town is Bonners Ferry ... was just there a few days ago !! IDAHO EXISTS. scouts honor it really does.
Don't get me started about Washington. I swear bigfoot has a stash of stolen packages in the Cascades
Casual and super entertaining engine build ... good channel to subscribe to ... being a Ram 5.9 owner.
I appreciate the kind words 👍
1st time watching one of your videos, I watch another dude that does workout videos Ryan Humiston, and I swear you not only look like him but your humor is exactly like his. You made me laugh about 80 times. Educational and funny. Subscribed!
I appreciate the support. I’ll have to look him up 👍
You are doing the rest of the build I wanted to do with my first gen. Good job
Thanks for watching. This thing should rip in my old Squarebody Service Truck 😎
I notice the 6.4 PSD was not even on your chart 😂
Sucks to. They are the most capable engine as far as power production goes, they just won’t stay together.
The few times I've pulled a 6.4 powerstroke apart theyve been destroyed. Either by carbon buildup or something relating to coolant getting into the oil. Id love new diesels if they were just more reliable.
I got over 242,000 on mine and still running strong.
The 6.4 is very easy to make power, because a complete delete and a very mild tune gets you to 500HP ! All the newer diesels require malicious maintenance and that old BT started life as a 300HP tractor motor that can be neglected and keep on going. They detuned it to put in the pickup so that it didn't kill the transmission!
That is because when you take one to a mechanic to get its issues fixed and the mechanic gives you the estimate, you discover why you got the truck so cheap. The 6.4 was a stopgap measure to have a diesel in a Ford that would meet emissions standards until Ford could finish development of their own engine. There is a reason these things were in production for all of 3 years while the successor has been around for over a decade.
Im glad you made this video, i love my 12v cummins. Its a stick shift, 4x4, dually found it for 9k bone stock. Ive installed compounds, replaced turbos, imstalled a dual mass clutch, and now im on to head studs and pump upgrades. This is really expensive and time consuming. But i wouldnt trade how easy the repairs are for the hp my dads 6.7 makes, hes spent triple just in repairs for failed parts
Yeah, those new diesel repairs can get very expensive. 👍
@@freedomworx GOOD ENGINE ''' BUT I PREPER MY 5.9/24
I have a 12 valve in my 68 F100 short bed in people's minds are always blown on how much I have into it to get it to run as well as it does
Nah man. You can make 500HP for $17 dollars with a 12V 😉
wow it amazes me how far trucks have come my 2018 F150 is putting 350 🐎 horse and 430 pounds of torque to the ground with just a 93 octane tune. just a decade or so ago u had to have a Diesel to make that much. We are really spoiled horsepower wise with modern truck! Not to mention modern Diesels putting out 500 horse and 1200 pounds of torque!! unfortunately emissions systems and def have killed there reliability. Great video brother I'm not really a Cummins guy but I enjoy this video and look forward to more
I’m glad you enjoyed it. 👍
@@freedomworx thanks for the reply bro u earned a subscription. have a good week
@trackpackgt877 awesome 👍
My ‘18 halfton ford with 5.0 out pulls the 05 dodge with 5.9 Cummins I had once. Both in take off and up hills. Sure, it revs out more but still, goes to show how overrated Cummins and other diesels are compared to modern gassers.
If I was pulling trailers very often I would go with a diesel but for pulling a heavy load a few times a year, having a stinky noisy Cummins is impractical and not economical any anyway. Way quicker, more comfortable, and fun to drive than a big turf with a tractor engine
@@3000fpe and a 3.5L Eco-Boost will outpull that 5.0L 😉.
I was so hoping you would use those new golf ball speed of air pistons!
Love your content!!
You ever looked at the price of those pistons? Only way I’m trying them is if they send them to me for free. 🥴
That tortoise yawning was the slowest, most hilarious thing ever.
Seemed appropriate. 😂
Awesome, happy to find a new channel to binge of quality content.
Thanks for watching 👍😎
Dropped a valve on my racing lawnmower and bent a pushrod. why did Briggs make the exhaust valve pushrod hollow aluminum?
Well having worked for Briggs and Stratton as a Co-op while is was engineering school, I can tell you that just about anything in that engine that makes you scratch your head, is the way it is to reduce manufacturing costs 😉
@@freedomworx makes sense
Sweet Racin Mowers ! For cooling and oil flow I guess 🤔 makes the valve lighter for cooling . Not so heat sinked maybe .
@@cupwalker24.7 the thing is, it’s a splash lubricated engine so I assume it’s for cost savings. I just switched it out for a steel one
@@cupwalker24.7 the thing is, it’s a splash lubricated engine so I assume it’s for cost savings. I just switched it out for a steel one
Thanks for the reply. 100 percent. I thank you.
Appetite all you did .
Pray you get a million hits.
Mick Australia 🇦🇺
Thanks 👍
❤❤❤❤❤
I love how many people completely missed the point of your video. Keep up the good work
Yep. Folks hear what they want to hear and then argue a point that wasn't even part of the conversation 😂
Make millions with a 12 valve every year still ... But In first or second gear and Almost at idol Behind Drilling Rigs. Alot of drilling rigs came with 12 valves not just my trucks so that makes me happy ....I hear that sound in my Dreams.
It's a workhorse, no doubt 👍
I giggle at every 600hp 12 valve, because it's really only 400...
Get a full port job though and the head outflows a 4 valve.
Butt Dyno certified 🤓
For sure agree dude. 80% of guys pull their fuel plate, crank the pump, bump the timing, block the wastegate and go around like "I have 450whp" lol. On stock injectors and stock 56/58 turbo lol.
I've got a dyno sheet 513/1032 somewheres here, 64/68 hx35/he351 hybrid, 5x14s with needle work and edge filter removal, conservative 18°, benched 215 pump, 4ks, hamilton valve springs and top hat seals, backyard port matched exh manifold, 1/2" fuel lines and -8an fittings in place of all the 1/8" orifice banjos, hamilton pushrods, and all the other mild-build typical stuff, modified lift pump, intake heat shield, turbo and exhaust manifold blankets, billet intake plenum and tappet cover, extra crank vent, all regular afc stuff etc etc. But stock head, valves, bottom end, injection pump(aside from gov springs), 470,000kms, does blow blue and leaks oil, about a quart/litre every 2 full tanks, but gets 530 miles per tank mixed city hwy, starts through winter exact same as summer, I'd literally let the dodge truck around it fall apart and swap my engine into an f350 with a blown 6.0 or 6.4, just take it with me through different trucks. See how many that engine can outlast lol
Pro mechanic here. I love my carbide scrapers. They can be used on aluminum with a careful touch and the proper technique. I use my scrapers so much I dull them on occasion. Get a diamond field sharpener. Sharpen by holding each of the three sides flat against the sharpener. I like to use heavy pressure because of the hardness of carbide. Once you get the cutting edges sharp, run each edge across the fine side of the sharpener at a 45 degree angle with very light pressure to remove the bur.
I'm only a TH-cam Mechanic, doubt I'll ever use them enough to dull them. But thanks for the tip 👍
A p pump 12 v bottom end can handle about 700hp stock, all you need is 3-4k gov springs, valve springs, arp head studs, 0 fuel plate( or no plate), a nice set of 120 horse injectors, 4 or 5 in turbo back straight pipe, nicely tuned pump, and a 3rd gen turbo (or one of your choosing), and you can make a clean very reliable 450-550 hp with over 1000ft lbs of torque, and also a tranny that’ll hold this power, but it is very easy and very cheap to build one of these pigs, love the vids please correct if I’m wrong but I’ve seen and helped build multiple p pump 12v to rippers ( can’t say the same for VE pump 12v, there just pigs )
You need everything I listed to make a reliable, streetable, clean 550HP or 700HP. I don’t spend money unless I have to 😉. It might be easy, but it isn’t cheap.
@@freedomworx yes totally agree, that would make a truck drive like a dream, and run like a top 365 days out of the year, but we are normal, everyday drivers that tow wheelers on weekends, if your not doing boosted launches and already have the normal upgrades such as, lift pump, egt-coolant-trans temp gauges, and have a manual tranny , but we have all gotten very lucky and scored on two built trannys for under 2000$ a peice still rippin three years later, but a normal dude with common sense can do a minimal build and keep the motor alive. Keepin it cheap and driving moderate, again these vids are super informational, love it keep it up 👍
@PNWRIPPA yes, I’m sure someone could get away with it for a while. Just depends on how much they like to party 😂
Wrong stock bottom end will handle over 1000hp on a 12v. A 5.9common rail will only handle 700hp because of the rods. That's why they put 12v rods on the common rails. Tons of 12v pulling trucks over 1000hp with stock bottom ends
@@bigmurph1447 damnnnn, I’ve heard of people running shitloads of power through stock bottom ends, I’ve just never witnessed a 12v with over 650hp, thanks man 👍ima read up on some builds.
NV5600 Trans ... if you already have one installed previously, That will change the end price. This is a great video though. Hilarious and educational.
Yeah, it’s certainly cheaper if you are running a manual gearbox.
There's a reason why 12 valves are used in commercial, marine, on road, stationary etc and duramax/powerstrokes are not. Don't be a rube.
There is no comparison between a 6BT and a modern Powerstroke or Duramax. The Cummins was designed as an industrial engine in the 80's with little to no emissions requirements to meet. The Powerstroke and Duramax engines were specifically designed as light truck engines with weight, efficiency, and emissions standards to consider. And as far as power and efficiency, the 6 BT cant hold a candle to a modern Duramax or Powerstroke. Don't be a simp. I own a 7.3 Powerstroke, an LBZ Duramax, a 6BT and a Commons Rail 5.9, so I am not biased. If you want a tractor or boat engine, buy a 6BT, but don't be deceived into thinking that you are gong to buy a 2nd Gen Ram truck and get 6.7 Powerstroke Super Duty or 6.6 Duramax 2500HD performance out of it. That's a pipe dream.
D-Max, and power stroke engines are used in the medium duty GMC, and F750 trucks. Gale Banks builds D-Max engines for marine use.
@@Bill-sp8kb like I said the, the Cummins was designed for medium duty applications from the get go. It was never intended to be stuck in a pickup truck. The Duramax and Powerstroke engines, for the most part, were specifically designed for a pickup truck. They get detuned and stuck in larger trucks, but that’s not what they are designed for. And yes, Banks does produce Duramax engines for military marine applications, but that doesn’t mean they are ideal for the application. It just means Gale Banks is an awesome salesman, and the government is ran by idiots. I have worked for the government for 21 years, including 5 in the Marine Corps, and can confirm that U.S. government employees, are in fact… idiots. 🤓
I was always on the fence with diesels, but I still remember the day Mozart's Lacrimosa played in my head when I saw a single cab shortbed D150 Cummins swap with a turbo bolted straight to the exhaust manifold timed right at head, piped directly to the intake. It was so beautiful. So simple. Just a turbo, a short piece of pipe, and two short rubber hose connectors. Straight out the turbo and literally straight into the throttle body. Perfection.
That 12 valve sound has hooked many men 😂
That’s quite a bit of work. I’ll probably never build a diesel engine but can definitely enjoy your suffering buddy. 🛠️
You can suffer vicariously through me 😉
Good video, I've spent 15k+ on just making sure my 12 valve runs good for another 30 years. It was bone stock, probably didnt need to mess with it, if you ever driven a stock p7100 you know the struggles. Banks twin ram, ex manifold, afc live, 58mm turbo, exhaust brake, intercooler, headjob, banks intake, ARP studs, straight pipe, gauges, ETC. Its ready for the end times but it probably makes 250-3500 hp for ever.
Yeah, they are pretty anemic when stock. Anyone says they should be left stock either hasn't ridden in one, or has no soul 😂
😂😂 that noise at 18:51 🌈💅🏼
It hurt and I was trying to cope with the pain 😂
ive been slowly but surely building my 97 7.3 into a (more) reliable motor. been a fun project to say the least, every time a part fails, i do my research and replace it with something tougher or more efficient. the fluidampr harmonic balancer and melling LPOP was the last real battle I had with the truck. injector o-rings and valve cover gaskets are coming up next.
i did wonder for a while if i wouldn't have been better off 12v swapping it but the money never looked right when you consider all the supporting mods into that swap, especially when i already had a running truck producing acceptable power. i appreciate the video my man.
Fixing the 7.3L will be cheaper by a huge margin. Pretty much everyone underestimates the budget and time required to do a swap. Just keep throwing money at the Powersmoke. 👍
I can’t speak for the other makes, but as a 6.0 guy, I can tell you $20k for 400hp is WAY too high. Most expensive thing 6.0 needs are NEW o-ringed heads. Stock fueling system, turbo, tranny are all fine at that level. Not much more $ will get you 500hp. Simple compound kit gets you 600hp+. It’s the reason 6.0’s have a following. They’re cheap and can make great power reliably. They’re super responsive and rev high. Fun engine. 💪🏼🇺🇸🦅
$10k for the truck and $10k to delete it, o-ring it, machine it, stud it, and tune it. Thats my math 👍
12 valves have an Achilles heel
6.0s have a whole set of Achilles toes 😂
@@hopingforthebest1.9not having electronically controlled injection is more than an Achilles heel, lol. It’s a deal breaker for me. Not interested in driving an inefficient smoke box. And if you turn the smoke down with AFC Live, you go back to turtle mode, right? High price to pay for not understanding how to work on the simple and humble 6 Liter.
@@edwardman1742 put down the crack pipe kid
@@ks_1111 I learned nothing from that comment, so you wasted your life posting, and I wasted my life reading. 😞
You make great content. Very accurate and well thought out🤜🏼🤛🏼🍿
Thanks for watching 👍
The 12 valve is not the most reliable light duty engine. The 6-71 Detroit diesel is far more reliable. I had 2 identical push boats one had a pair of 12 valve Cummins and the other had a pair of 671 Detroits. The 671s were naturally aspirated with N75s and made around 250 HP. The 12 valve Cummins were turbocharged, non intercooled, and rated for 260HP. Both boats got about the same number of hours and moved the same barges on the same bodies of water. In 5 years I had 8 blown up Cummins and only 1 Detroit that wasn’t even blown up it just was in the shop for an overhaul because it was burning a ton of oil. The 671 is more reliable then the 12 valve and it has replaceable liners so you can freshen it up in place between rebuilds. I’m not a fan of the Detroit diesels GM has made some terrible Detroit diesels like the 92 series ticking time bomb. But the inline 671 at a reasonable HP level in my experience is very reliable. Not saying the Cummins is a POS by any stretch of the imagination, but the 671 is certainly a better engine if the additional weight isn’t a concern.
You are comparing a 2-Stroke 426CI purpose built medium duty engine to a 359CI 4-stroke light duty engine. They are not competitors and not even in the same category. The 71 Series Detroit is a great platform, but it is not a light duty engine. You might as well be comparing the 5.9 Cummins to a DT466.
Given what I put my 5.9 and 6.7 through, I can't imagine 8 of them blowing up... my 5.9 maxed out at 590/1200 on dyno, and I ran it for 160k mi at 550 horse, more in the 6.7. granted I don't use all that every running moment, but if you keep them under 200° F and the right oil (imperative), they last.
@@Faolan161 All I can tell you is these were stock factory new complete engines (oil pan to air filter). They ran 15w-40 Shell Rotella, got weekly oil changes, ran 24hours a day 7 days a week half the year and they lasted about 6-8 months before either oil consumption became excessive, or they had a major failure (like a rod through the side of the block). We just replaced them with a brand new Cummins complete engine when they failed. I’m not saying they are bad engines just that they don’t last anywhere as long as other engines in the 250 HP class. As for what the operators did to these things I couldn’t tell you. Most of these guys are animals so they certainly didn’t treat them nicely. However the same animals ran the other boat (with the Detroits) on the same jobs, moving the same dump scows and that didn’t eat anywhere near as many engines. It’s the only apples to apples comparison I can make, we run Cats, Cummins, Detroits, EMDs, John Deeres, and even a few Kubotas. However they are not running in the same equipment doing the same job and being used by the same people. The two little push boats were identical and in my opinion a fair comparison. I could say the John Deere 4045s are the best small engines because on my gensets they seem to go about 45,000 hours between overhauls. However this wouldn’t be a fair comparison as they are the only ones powering this type of genset. Even comparing them to the Kubotas of the portable gensets wouldn’t be fair.
@@Trump985 Something's gotta be wrong in there to blow up that many Cummins engines. I run a 4 cyl Cummins 4.5l in a skid steer as hard as I can, and the oil even stays clean at 500-700 hrs between oil changes, 4000 it's on it now. That's tougher than the boat work. Something's off, Cummins handle massive workloads just like yours all around the world. Of course, I'm the kind of guy who looks for the root cause of breakage so I can repair or redesign with proper parts so it doesn't melt itself down...
I hope you've found a better solution, that gets expensive fast.
@@Faolan161 how much do you know about boats? There are not many if any land vehicle that you can compare to a boat in the amount of abuse it takes.
I had a Case 2096 with the 5.9 Cummins…the engine was phenomenal!…the tractor not so much…Case put them in most of their construction equipment that was 20 ton and under…they had them in their Maxxum 5100 and 5200 series…super engines!..
Yep. It was definitely the standard in it's day 👍
Love your videos. Make more and you will get more subs.
I appreciate it. I’m trying to speed up the process. But I’ve got a wife, kids, and a full time job competing for my time 👍
Just remember... kids, TH-cam then wife. 😂 and try to fit work in there somewhere.
Work is optional
I never understand why people try to juice up 12 valves... The best thing about them is that they're tireless dogs. Add oil. Add diesel or jet fuel. Go for literally forever.
Because they are unbearable to drive in stock trim 😉
@@freedomworx Dep[ends, if you just want a reliable work truck that will get you from point A to point B for decades with very few problems they are great, if you want a sport truck they suck in stock form.
I have a 4.0 inline 6 in my 2006 jeep just because the engine is reliable and easy to work on.
On the highway I'm doing 70mph no problem.
I agree with you keep it simple
Im down to 20 Cummins and can hardly sleep at night...
wtb: more 12V Cummins Turbo Diesels... hmu
You have problems 😂
@@freedomworx don't we all
I worked as a Heavy equipment mechanic for Dresser Equipment Co back in the early 80's. Dresser was the Construction Equipment Division of International Harvester after a split in the company due to poor finances. Dresser had the rights to use IH engines for a number of years, but those rights ended int he 80's and they moved to engines supplied by Cummins. I received factory training on those engines at that time, and compared to the old OH engines we were used to these were a pile of crap, engineered mainly to reduce the cost of building, not for strength or durability. Case in point, sleeveless cylinders; aslo no replaceable cam bearings. Cheap, cheap, cheap. We hated 'em. Except for one thing, they turned out to be great engines, far far better than we thought they would be. As you've noted, they've proven themselves to be very durable engines, funny considering how cheaply they are built. I would still prefer an old IH engine, and in fact for the same time period as these I would go with an old 6.9l Power Stroke. I can still remember driving my old man's Ford with the 6.9 with Banks turbo kit installed, and walking past the Dodges on uphill runs pulling a 5th wheel TT. The 6.9 is a heavy duty design, far better than the Cummins, but they had problematic fuel injection system and glow plug control, both of which can be corrected with after market parts. Or at least could be, I don't know if the after market is still supporting them, that was a long time ago. There was also the DT360, again, a much better design; built like a full size heavy duty diesel engine. A guy could choose far worse for a project than an old DT 360.
This block and head were actually cast by International Navistar. The logo is right there on both. 😉
@@freedomworx well, IH knows how to cast seriously strong iron blocks. Even their gas V8's, 345's & 392's, were known for going 250k or more miles, easily.
Power driven has kits for more that 400hp for 800$.... Junkyard motor might be 2500$ here in Oklahoma.. this fella is crazy..
600 -650 HP kit is less than 2k$..
You keep telling yourself that. You think I just like to spend money that I don’t need to? I’m trying to help you out. You can learn from it, or you can get yourself into something you can’t afford to finish.
@CadorSeeliger I literally made this video for people like you. You have no idea what it actually takes to make those numbers and keep the engine alive.
PDD 650HP trans is $6k. So there’s that. 🤷🏻♂️
Cumminstards strike again.
i largely agree with your conclusions, dude. fun video to watch and learn from. im into 12v's b/c im an engine swap guy. Would be curious to see your chart if you set the purchase price of the trucks/engine's to zero in your f(x).
If the purchase price was omitted, an L5P Duramax or Later 6.7 Powerstroke would be the only ious choice.
@@freedomworx hahaha. of course....
Diesels aren’t really my thing, but they’ve been on the fringe of my interest for a while now. This was an entertaining entry into the subject. Great video style. It’s also cool to see something other than a LS go into the service truck. You got yourself a new subscriber!
I’m glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for the support 👍
Loved the video. The 12 valve is my favorite engine by a mile. I pulled one out of a ford box truck to swap into my dually square body. Timing cover plaque states 230HP @2200rpm and 605ft lbs of torque @1400rpm. It moves the truck along pretty nice, although I've always wanted to turn it up. But so far I've left it alone because I absolutely need that stock, million mile reliablity. But it's tempting...
You'll never drive it a million miles anyway. Turn it up 😎
Aaand found my new favorite channel. Instant subscribe
I appreciate the support 👍
Kdp got my 1st gen at 190k ish previous owner payed to have it fixed. They jb welded the cracked case and billed for doing it right, left the pin in the oil pan for me to find. The crank gear slipped ~ ½ a tooth retarded the cam. Stock 160/400 tune made 491.0@1846 178.3@1976 to the tire.
At~500k mi it got an overhaul crank was bent and mains where tapered from1 @0.0045 through 4@0.0035 5-7 @0.0035 so would pass mustard as factory new.. 5 and 6 where 0.003 out of round and took 0.020 over to clean up.
Point is theas are tuff motors.
Put the 2nd gen on a 3k lbs trailer (16500lbs total)and went for a 550mi drive to seat the rings
They are super tough... But somebody treated this one bad!!!
I like the Premiers gives an opportunity to talk with the creator
Yeah buddy 👍
"Still has a dashboard & rocker panels"
Bro.....that had me ROLLIN'! 😆👍🏻👍🏻
2nd Gen’s are turds 💩🤷🏻♂️😂
@@freedomworx true 😂
This video was perfect. Love the way that you put up a chart with all the answers and went over both the pros and cons.
I’m glad you enjoyed it 👍
Lisle makes a version of the old Sunnen style hone and they sell it for less than a couple hundred bucks. If your bore is still within size spec for your current pistons and you just want to true it back up you can get it down to tenths of taper with one, and if there's any oval shape to your bores it'll make them round again too. They're supposed to go in a machine to get the perfect crosshatch, but you can do just fine putting it into a hand drill. I did the cylinders on my tractor engine because they needed re-sleeving and I've had zero issues with oil consumption, so I know the crosshatch turned out fine. If you get under half a thou taper you can spin it to 8 grand no problem. Since this is a diesel at 4 grand, you'll have zero issues with that 1 thou of taper and it would be overkill trying to exceed it. You know it's not out of round by more than that either, which is also fine. You'll probably distort the cylinders more than that torquing down the head.
I’d never seen that Lisle hone until you mentioned it. Looks like a good unit 👍
The problem with that isky tool is the cutter geometry is dumb, you really need to grind a touch of relief on the face of the cutter to make it work
I didn’t have any trouble with it cutting. But the operator was a little short on stamina 😂
Yes I’m all here for the build had a 99 v8 was gonna diesel swap but had to sell since I was in the military but in the process of getting out now and can’t wait to build this bad boy and better yet with you helping me. 👀
Yeah, swapping is usually a losing game. Just buy one that already has a diesel in it 👍
Very good video.
Im currently on my journey to a big diesel truck. My dad has a 7.3 powerstroke 1997 he likes, the truck looks petty cool.
I myself starting fresh am looking for a diesel truck to get into and im stuck between 12v or a 7.3.
Starting fresh before buying books and spending hours and hours researching, which do you think is best to jump into, my goals are to have a very reliable truck to work around the farm( horse trail, hauling a 2 ton mini escavator), keep kinda like a classic, and daily driver.
Honestly, whichever one you like the most. And buy one that someone else has already spent money on😎. Let someone else spend the money on tuning, exhaust, trans, etc.
The stock 6.0 PSD is 325 HP. Fix the oil coiler, fuel pressure regulator and don't tune them for more HP and they will be OK. But that is going to be about 4-5 K in parts alone.
Yep. They are pretty good engines after you throw $10k at them 😉
My 53 Ford F600 4x4 and My RV both have 12 valve Cummins. They run on anything except gasoline and i don't do crazy things with them so hoping for a million miles.
I do crazy stuff with my 12 valves. I hope they last 10 thousand miles😂😉
looks like i'm keepin' my money pit, great edits, new sub ridin' this roller coaster!
I appreciate the support 👍
“Need a bigger shop, you guys need to subscribe “ I feel you brother. This is the first video of yours I’ve seen but I subbed because I felt that lmao
I appreciate the support 😎👍
Amen to the ball hone, brother! I've used both, prefer the ball hone, and had the same good results with both. Keep on building.
Do some small Toyota forklift diesel converted to work in a truck diesel stuff......
Sub'd. I like your style.
Didn’t know diesel Toyota Forklift engines were a think 🧐
@@freedomworx Yes sir. Mostly 4-cylinder stuff with smaller pump and injectors since they're set for maximum =torque RPM. Nissan has diesel forklift engines as well. There are Deutz diesel engines, baby Cummins, and others in ground service equipment. The overland Expedition can have a Toyota overland build with a diesel engine built from a forklift. Will this work? I don't know, but a build like this would suit your style of lets go for it. Forklifts and ground service equipment like Tugs have these mechanical diesels.
I don't know, something to think about when you wonder why you contemplate other things.
Hones are really meant to make a bore round and take the taper out while taking them to size as well and to give them a good finish, that is actually a degalzer but what ever😶
Let me ask you this, why do machine shops use a hone after they bore a cylinder? Why not just bore the cylinder and send it out the door? I mean, it’s already straight and true, right??? There are very few instances where a machine shop will use a hone to true up a cylinder. They will bore the cylinder to true it up, and then use a hone to achieve the proper surface finish, just like I said 🥱
It’s amazing how believable someone can sound when they’re telling the truth.
Sometimes I even believe myself 😉
My philosophy has always been get what you can out of your vehicle/engine until something breaks, then mod it. My Duramax is at 753,000 miles with a few water pumps and one set of injectors (Yes still original CP3 pump). Tuned of course but she keeps going, trans too. My close friend has a 2012 Cummins and has done so much work to it.... and suffered several breakdowns, mostly because of the work that he thought would be benificial.
The Duramax trucks don’t get enough credit for their reliability and longevity. My daily is a 2006 LBZ truck. 190k miles with nothing more than glow plugs and fuel filter housing seals.
@@freedomworx mine blew the HG at 193k, but it was also 500hp. And it still pulled my 9k camper on a 3k mile trip threw CO and SD with a blown HG. I love my LBZ. It's a much better truck over all then anything that came with a Cummins in it.
I love your work and to the point on your video. Love it man
Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for watching 👍
Great vid, man. I learned a lot.
Question: Who do you recommend for a built transmission to handle that kind of power? I'm not going that high with my 7.3 PS, but i like to overbuild.
For a 7.3 built trans: Twisted Diesel, A1 transmission of Georgia, BTS, Sam Wise all good ones.
A1 Trans in Georgia built the trans in my 7.3L Excursion. I highly recommend those guys. 👍
That Isky tool is pretty neat. I did the same thing with my 12 valve, except I did it in the truck. Had to make shorter handles for it because the original handles hit the firewall.
That sounds like a pain!! I was very surprised at how many calories it burned 😂
90% of 12 valves manufactured are still running, the trucks might have rotted away but the engines live on in other trucks and equipment
Still pumping out 160 crank horsepower 30 years later 😉. Doesn’t sound so impressive when I put it like that. My 54 year old Jeep Dauntless 225 V6 is still pumping out 160HP… 54 years later 😎
The reason a 6BT is the best diesel for a pickup is the "6" part. Inline 6's are just so easy to work on. You can do a head gasket on an inline 6 in the same time it takes to do injectors on a V8. This is what actually sold me on inlines, and it's part of the marketing and why they were made that way.
The back 3 cylinders on my 2006 5.9 are underneath the cowl. Pretty sure I could swap a set of injectors on my Duramax faster than I Could swap injectors on my 5.9 CR. You don’t even need to pull the valve covers on the Duramax. But then again, I’ve never had to do injectors in the Duramax. So I could be wrong 🤷🏻♂️
@@freedomworx I have a 12 valve that's swapped into a ford, nothing under the cowl and the injectors are in the open, just pull the vanity cover and fuel lines and then swap injectors - haven't actually worked on a 24 valve but good point about removing the covers.
I've never done injectors on a duramax, but I have on a 6.5 detroit, and it turned me against V8's 🤣. Have to remove the fender liners, turbo, intake horn, and then you're still twisting and contorting to reach them. Get a special wrench so you don't hurt the return lines... It was an all day job, takes 30 minutes on a 12 valve. Hopefully duramax's are a little easier but I guess I'd have to try one.
It's crazy because I've worked on plenty of gas V8's and they usually aren't that bad (other than still having 2 banks so still requiring twice the work) but the diesel V8's I've worked on so far have been a nightmare
Man you and me have similar tastes. I like tinkering with trucks and reloading and the 2a as well. I have a 550 on my bench along with a few other presses. The Dillon is the only kinda progressive press I own though.
That little Lee Press gets more action than the Dillon 😂
I like any diesel that can pull 30k gross every day and hit 1 million miles with only oil/filter changes. In this case, that is the 12V/P7100. Truck was $2500 in 2007, still runnin.
How many transmission you gone through? Serious question. My 2006 has had 3 new transmissions installed. Every 100k just like clockwork. 😂
@@freedomworx I don't use automatics. I run the NV4500 with a 5th gear modification. Before that it backed off the nut in 5th gear pulling a load of drill pipe. I have rebuilt the 46re,47re,48re for friends every 100k miles. I've never put all the fancy sonnax parts in etc, but that may increase the mileage. If I was going to run an Auto it would be the Allison 3000 series, rugged duty, same ones they run on trash trucks etc.
My daily is a Duramax, and that Alison 1000 is the tits. Your out an Allison 1000 next to a 46,47,48, and it makes you wonder how the Dodge transmission last as long as they do. Tiny little critters.
Bought my first cummins truck, 97 12v, has arp heads, and sure fire ring head, and new holset hx35, i dont know what size injectors are on it but was told they aren't stock so woohooo, I'm very happy with it. Paid 6200 bucks for it 5 speed manual. I just needed a good farm truck so I probably won't do anything to it, has plenty of get up and go for my needs. But watching this video and learning about the killer dowel pin, I will most definitely look into any aftermarket stuff that might fix that, so if anyone has any suggestions please let me know.
Yeah, you need to make sure the KDP gets addressed. You've probably got leaks on the front end that need to be addressed anyway while you have it apart. 😉
A ball pein hammer or a hammer and punch is plenty good enough to bang up the hole in the cover so that the dowel pin can't pass through easily....then check the case bolts, they can come loose too and get into places they should not be.....
It might be enough, but it won’t help most people at night.
Excellent video. From someone not on the bandwagon i can agree with practically everything you said. I dont think ive ever heard anyone push the lbz that hard but id say theyre solid to 550. Hurts a little to not see the idi's represented, you can certainly buy and build a 7.3 idi to get 300hp for under 10k no problem, does take a fair bit more work than all the others though, assuming NA, add another couple grand to hit 400. Perks are theyre quiet, second best sounding engine behind the 6.0, and they were put in the best looking pickups.
Yeah, all of those numbers are obviously debatable. I was just trying to get folks to think about the entire picture, the entire truck, before deciding that they "had to have a 12 valve"
With minimal diesel knowledge from me... what's your opinion on P pump 24V?
and re engine swaps, 4BT are more popular in some cases, to at least slightly reduce weight. Turns out they even make a 16V 4BT too but they're hens teeth.
Nothing wrong with a P-Pump 24V or a 4BT. The downside to a 4BT is just that they are expensive. Much more so than a 6BT.
I'll stick with my OBS Chevy with a 12 Valve!!! Good Chevy Body and interior with a Bulletproof motor that makes awesome power, sounds amazing and if you double up on sound deadening inside the cab then noise isn't an issue... and its not about HP... its about Torque 💯
Sound deadening??? Can’t hide money 😉
U know dodge interior sucks soooo bad when someone is saying 80s chevy interior is better lol
I think the international DT360 is actually better in that it has wet liners and can be inframe overhauled. It’s just not as popular because it was not used in a pickup truck.
Yeah, it’s definitely better from an inframe perspective 👍
I found a 96 f-350 dually with 5 speed, custom racks, bumper, and a 5.9 cummins swap has 250k miles on the body not sure about the engine for $20k on autotrader wish I could afford it.
OBS 😎
Love my stock 7.3
No glow plugs starting in 45 degree weather without skipping a beat.
If yours cold starts smoothly at 45 degrees without any glow plugs. It’s a freak. Why are there no functioning glow plugs?
@@freedomworx i think I have two of them working or there must be a bad sort. I have much better starts without the relay powered up. Sounds like the cylinders are fighting each other.
It’s on the list to fix tho. 45 degrees doesn’t get me far in the year in Michigan. I drive her until 1st snow.
I’m afraid once I open her up the money will fly
I watched this owning a low mile 4x4 lbz I spent 8k on a year ago. My ego is fully flexed. But I still love a 12v with a built re
A daily an LBZ that’s my Grandad bought new 😎👍
Love your videos and your sens of humor. I have inherited my late fathers 2002 2500 sport with the 24 valve vp44 he already had it tuned and tickled up to about 450 hp not sure i believe it.
You can make a good bit of power on a VP44. Just make sure it’s got a good lift pump feeding it 👍
I just put an OM 617 in my jeep. I never spent so much money to be this disappointed. But I get about 20 miles per pound of bacon.
You doubled the weight of the Jeep 😂😉
Should to transmission rebuild video! What did you end up going with?
Im getting there 😉
Dude I really appreciate your videos! What would a VE44 pump need to get to 300-350 whp? I have the 5 speed so I know I would need an upgraded the clutch to start. I also plan on going with the piston style lift pumps with a weaker spring.
VE pump or VP44? I think you combined them into one 😉
@@freedomworx I'm fairly new and saw people calling the 89-93 ve a ve44. Good to know it's only a ve pump.
Yeah. The VP44 was the pump used in the 24 Valve engines from 98.5-02.
@@dabadcod4 Power Driven Diesel sells a 300-350HP package for 1st Gen Cummins trucks. powerdrivendiesel.com/product/power-driven-300-350-hp-power-package-for-91-5-93-1st-gen-5-9l-12v-dodge-cummins/
Well done sir! Just curious though, do you have a breakdown of the costs in the chart? (The way you broke down the 12v was perfect, I’m curious how you came to those numbers for the other engines, particularly the 7.3 power stroke). 👍
I do not. That could be several videos all by itself. But I have a 7.3L Excursion that makes about 500WHP. Tell me what your goal is or what your budget is, and I can probably give you some options/advice.
@@freedomworx honestly some details on your excursion build would about hit the nail on the head👍 500-550hp 7.3 is the dream man- plenty to have fun, but can still tow.
I can link the videos where we built the engine. But understand that 500WHP is downhill with a tailwind on the dyno for my setup. It’s somewhere in the 480-500WHP range most likely. But you can’t tow at anywhere near that power level. Your budget will really dictate this. It’s pretty cheap to make in the low 400s. Stage 1.5 Injectors, Stage 1 Turbo, tuning. Anything beyond that and you need a better lift pump, HPOP, transmission, etc. It goes from $3k for 425HP, up to like $13k for 500HP. It’s a huge jump. th-cam.com/video/WzvIbKeehmo/w-d-xo.htmlsi=smkhoLPVYIB1dnwU
@@freedomworx that answers all my questions! Thank you!
I’ll say this I’ve seen a lot of people who love the coyote engine from ford but my experience with one was at first positive then went to the negative once i started seeing every issue it had to offer between 2016-2022 we ended up trading it in for a 22 ram 1500 big horn 4x4 which has been more reliable than the ford and the crazy thing is the ford was well maintained, regular oil changes, tire rotations, replacing brakes and rotors when it was needed, but the truck had a little gremlin that would see if one thing was fixed it would break another thing til it got to the point of the truck becoming unreliable due to overheating and because I was diagnosed with cancer in 2022 that would be a big problem since my appointments weren’t exactly a quick trip one of the medical facilities was 15-25 mins from me but the other was around 35-40 minutes from me which would be a huge problem if we broke down on the way there so that prompted us to finally trade in the ford for a ram 1500 4x4 big horn with a 5.7 Hemi and so far it has been an amazing truck, it’s got everything we could ask for, independent climate controls for driver and passenger, a 9ch Harmon kardon audio system with a 12.0 inch infotainment system although we might have the larger 14.0 inch screen I’d have to measure it regardless it’s useable as the truck has a backup camera, and does gps which is nice, it has satellite radio the truck also features a 120v inverter so you can plug your wall charger in for your phone or whatever device you need to charge such as a laptop, tablet etc so it’s nice and the truck has pretty decent ground clearance for a stock 4x4 truck so definitely one of my new favorites!
I’d hope a 2022 truck is still reliable. I daily a 2006 Duramax with 190k miles on it. It’s never been to a shop in 18 years. I’ve replaced 2 glow plugs, 2 front wheel hubs, and seals on the fuel filter housing. That’s a total of $550 in parts and about 6 hours of labor in 18 years. 😉
Mine is the 24v. Bigger number=Better. Mine was so high tech and clean that it came from the factory WITHOUT a catalytic converter. I have no idea what kind of HP it makes, but I have been pretty cheap with the upgrades. I first got TST to reprogram the ECM for a power increase and they lowered the idle speed. Then I got DD Stage III injectors some kind of modified HX 40 turbo, a fancy exhaust manifold and then a TST Competition box with a custom program for sled pulling. The most expensive upgraded were to the clutch and 5-speed.
Here an interest fact about 24Vs, and this is basically applicable to all 4 valve per cylinder diesels. They didn’t go to 4 valves for more flow, they went to for valves so they could put the injector in the center of the cylinder, because that reduced exhaust emissions and helped them meet more stringent emissions standards 🤓
@@freedomworx Years ago before my turbo upgrade I was running the stock turbo and racing another truck one night I pegged my 50psi boost gauge. Then heard a loud noise and my engine started running really rough. Turns out my turbo exploded and pieces of it got stuck in the intake valves. That was my most expensive whoopsie. Had to have the head rebuilt and a new turbo installed. They also found the exhaust manifold was cracked and replaced with a 3 piece one. Still running like a Champ with over 200k miles.
@kdw75 they are tough 👍
I like how he leaves the option of a 24 valve and the fact that you can make a a reliable 500 to 600 horsepower easily with the 6.1 stroker 12 valve and you can still make a 24 valve run with no wires fully mechanical by putting a p pump on it
I also left out the 6.4 Powerstroke which will make more power for less than every other engine on the list. There is nothing economical about a 6.1 Stroker or P-Pumping a 24 Valve.
I’ve been looking into doing a similar build, why did you go with the 12v rather than the 24v? From what I’ve gathered for the same price you can get more hp.
Cost, simplicity, 53 Block. Nothing wrong with a P-Pump 24v, it just costs more.
This may sound stupid but how does the 6.5 Detroit stack up in that comparison chart. I hear mixed opinions on this engine some saying it's the worst thing ever and some saying it's not bad if you maintain it.
There are a few people with them pushing the 500 HP mark but it's not super common but since that engine was being sold against the 5.9 at the time I do wonder how it stacks up if at all.
No comparison honestly. They are finicky and underpowered. You can flog a 12 valve and abuse it, and it’ll still pull harder and longer, by a huge margin.
I need to pull a 12 valve out of a totalled 1991.5 first gen to put into long term storage. (Neighbors called the county code enforcement on me even though I had the truck hidden out back with a car cover on it) anyways. I had the truck towed to a buddy's place, he's buying the rest of the truck as a parts truck.
Any advice for transportation and storage would be appreciated.
Idk man. Mine was already on an over built stand when I bought it. Maybe pull the turbo and exhaust off and lay it on its side on some tires.
@freedomworx think I've got a plan. Gonna use a heavy duty pallet, throw some wheels on it, and add some 4x4s for support.
Great video n information can't wait to see part 2
Thanks for watching 👍
As the owner of a 95 12 valve that dynos at 540hp/1236 ft-lbs I started to add up costs over the last few years to prove your costs were excessive and honestly I'm at about $6k but that includes swapping my nv4500 for a nv5600 and me doing all of the work including the trans rebuild. These dinosaurs are expensive to keep alive 😂
I'd say you got out pretty cheap. But did you adjust for inflation? Because it's almost like we've had a lot of that over the last 3 years 😉
@freedomworx there certainly has been some part increases but I purchased a lot of it on black Friday, or other sales. My hx35/40 hybrid (to retain exhaust brake) was also built by me so that was only about $600. Southbend street dual disc got used like new for $500. All about those deals!
@wyattl341 I love a good deal. I bought most of this stuff on sale myself. Just did the math with retail prices. 👍
I just want to do 65-70MPH up a hill a max GVWR(truck camper). I'm stuck at 55MPH. How much HP do I need? I have the original rebuilt automatic transmission.
Really depends on the truck you have. We are talking max HP numbers. Two trucks can have identical max HP numbers but not pull a hill the same. Gearing, number of gears in the transmission, etc. will make a huge difference. As will the elevation you are operating at.
Cool waiting on next part😊
Already in the works 👍
so did dynamite diesel cover the lost injectors since they disappeared during return shipping? was there a physical hole in the box or were they simply never put in the box? i feel like we need more info on this story
They actually disappeared on the way to DDP. They called me and asked why I sent an empty box 😂. USPS at its finest…
For that million dollars I'm willing to engineer a giant turbo with a pre burner that burns fuel just to spool up the massive turbo. You'd be sitting at the light and a boosted civic pulls up you just hit a button to light your turbo at idle on your diesel truck
Probably be cheaper to just put a blower on it. Super Turbo setup, like the old Detroit engines or the Banks Pike’s Peak Freightliner.
I like that engine stand. Can you give some info?
I hate it. If you're close to Atlanta I'll make you a good deal on it 😂
@@freedomworx No. Sorry. From Albany, but live a bit further.
The only thing wrong with this, it's overrated not overated 😂. Great work 🎉
In my defense, I only spelled it wrong 1 out of 2 times. 😂😂. I saw it while editing. Figured it’d just be a good Easter Egg for someone. Nothing I could do about it at that point. Good eye 👍
Your wrong. The first now 5.9 Cummins engine was originally the natural aspirated 147 horsepower engine in International hay equipment. The 1976 to 1984 bale wagons and 1975 to 1984 swathers had the 147 hp Cummins motor. When Cummins added the turbo, it became the 160 hp engine.
Then in 1985, it became the 5.9 L6 Cummins. Same engine, different applications. I have worked on these engines in both applications for over 35 years. Same auxillary parts and internals are identical. The injection pump, injectors, exhaust manifold and intake manifold plate are the only difference. Have converted many 147 hp engines into the 5.9 liter 12 valve engines and put them into pickups and medium class trucks.
I’m not wrong, you just weren’t listening to what I said. I said the “6BT,” I did not say the “5.9 Cummins.” 🤷🏻♂️
Thought I wanted a fummins built with a rebuilt drop in engine. Dang it I thought I finally decided what I wanted. But I want reliability and value more than power, I guess 300-350hp is enough.
I wanna move into a toy hauler. Thought I wanted a 7.3 powerstroke to tow it. Nah too old, will have to keep working on it and learn about all the small issues that could leave me stranded. 6.7 powerstroke 2015+? Expensive, it's gonna need the upper oil pan gasket replaced, and it's a huge PITA. Maybe duramax? The new ones are about as bad? LBZ seems much harder to find than 7.3PS.
Nothing wrong with doing a Fummins. But if you are sticking with a Dodge auto, you’ll have to build it regardless of what power level you want.
@@freedomworx probably built 4R100. Looks like 7.3psd crate engines are more expensive (~$11,000) than 12v cummins (CPP takeout $5,299), but it would be close with the DCS conversion kit, does that seem right?
@autismion whatever you think the swap would cost, go ahead and add a minimum of 25%. And there is no reason to spend $11k on a create engine. Mine makes 500HP to the tire and has 250k miles on it. There are lower mileage used engine out there pretty cheap. Just my $0.02. And a 4R100 is pretty tough. They can handle 350HP easily in stock form.
We need an update on the bypass oil filter please good sir!!
I've got 8,500 miles on the oil. Going to run an analysis and do a follow-up at 10,000 miles.
Can i ask you to make a video regarding the detroit 6.2? We love it here in Norway :D
Well I’ve accused a couple through my years, never succeeded at breaking one 😉
Bro, at the TDR, their are original 12 valve engines with over 1 million miles, many, many of them
What’s your point?