If you cut your helmets correct you would be able to swap out helmet faces like the BARC and respirator in a modular fashion. If you used magnets you could quickly swap them out
@@johnconnor6735 The helmet is not actually a solid: The printer prints the shell of the helmet (normal helmet stuff), and will add supports in places where it's necessary, like ridges.
I'm setting up for a 1.5 ARC bucket on my CR-10. I can't fit it in as one piece at 45° but this is a neat idea for the lower part. I've cut up the file to fit in a similar fashion to what you did as well.
It has the fin instead of the Mohawk. In the series, you only saw the 1.5 a couple of times before they went to the 2 as well. In the series the ear caps were smooth on 1.5 as well.
Cool video. Supports are the bane of my 3d printing world! I begrudgingly accept them as a necessary evil but im am too frugal for soooo much waste. Alot of people say its only plastic but my thought is plastic is money. Got some good plastic saving tips here so thanks a bunch.
Tank you very much! Ive been looking for a clone trooper helmet, but I have no CAD software, 3d printer or accessories, and you recommended all of them in your description, thank you PS I subbed
@@AutomateYourMind how big is your head if you don’t mind me asking? I‘ll probably have to print a smaller helmet for my cosplay and don’t really know how to get the right size as those helmets tend to be a bit tricky imo
Thanks for the video. Have you done a check for the face and backface could be rotated 90 degrees instead? I think you could have lot less supports, especially for the face.
Question: New to 3d printing myself. I purchased your Mandolorian Files, would you recommend 10% infill for all of the pieces? or up it for any of them specifically? Im also running into an issue of the nozzle clogging after about 20+ hours of printing.
Sorry for all the questions, but I have zero experience, and want to get this first print done right. Can you share your temperature settings and detailed support settings?
I've got an ender 3 so I have to cut up all my helmets, but here's a thought. Model in a support pillar for the center area, so instead of 30 hours worth of support, you can make a single wall pillar with a roof(picture an empty soda bottle). Get it close to the full height and you only need like 10mm tall support structures between that pillar and the inside top of the dome. I've never tried it, but it makes sense in my brain..
I have printed mine in one piece, with supports only for the top of the lense. 3 days of printing but was a success. The problem was that i used abs while i didnt have an enclosure so i got a lot of cracks. I filled everything, now i have to start sanding once im done printing the rest of the armor.
Galactic Armory hey boss what’s your speed setting and addition and support mods because my default ones are cheeks I keep getting these weird spider legs on the bottom of my print when it should be smooth
@@laughintrollface thank you, ill keep playing with my settings and try to get better print times.. i tried to adjust the speed to 60 instead of 50... but ill give it a try :)
Could you just print in two parts top and bottom I would be interested to see what the supports and time look like great video thanks for Sharing I am new to this 3D printing so any help is very much welcome
Do you change the entry for the head? So that there is no need to cut the helmet and put it at once ? (Really if you don't understant i'm really bad in english)
Hey I’m having trouble with the phase I helmet that comes with the clone Armour model that you had linked I can’t seem to get it right because it’s slanted a bit for the dome so it ends up separating into like 5 different cuts when I only try to cut the one piece
I've been watching a lot of these videos and I'm a tad confused by a few things. Having built a Stormtrooper helmet the traditional way (styrene / vacuum form) the helmets are often left with overlapping parts that are cut in strategic areas to allow them to be overlapped and riveted together. In many of these printing videos, I'm seeing the model be sliced either in multiple parts (making a lot of seams), or like this where it is a bit of an all or nothing approach. This confuses me because on almost all helmets there are natural separation areas that would hide seams. For example, on the clone trooper above, there is a natural seam under the brow and under the "ears." If the model was cut along these lines with two overlapping parts, would it not be easier to put back together? Having additional material that can overlap means that you always have material to fill gaps. Riveting two parts together in an overlap and then sawing / cutting them together will result in a gap that is equal on both sides (think of cutting a silicone mold up the back). Then, parts like the "mohawk", "ears", back details, etc" can be placed over the seams further hiding them. Same goes for the mic tips and other details. In fact, the advantage of 3D printing seems to be that you could physically model the overlap so the parts have large surface areas to join to. The gaps are also not holes so much as lines, making filling them much easier due to having backing material. Thoughts?
hey can you show me how you would do it as a all in one I have the CR-10 S5 and want to make a life size one and I'm new at printing so what would be the best way to support this?
I just finished printing the face of my helmet! There's quite a bit of flex when I press on the face though, like the inside is hollow. What would you recommend changing?
CR-10 V2 is pretty much the best printer out there for printing helmets and armour. The standard CR-10 is quite hard to come by now and is no where near as good as the V2.
I noticed the band around the forehead doesn’t have supports on it. Does it print okay like this? Cura puts supports under it and it adds a ton of plastic.
He's done a few tutorials on Mando helmets. Both Dinns helmet and also the Heavy Mandalorian from season 1 just look back in his videos on his channel.
When I add supports at 70 degrees, Why does it generate supports in many places where they aren’t in your video? Also, i pretty much have the same settings as this video but my front face clocks in at 52 hours, can anyone help me?
I tried rotating the model 45 degrees to fit in one go, but Cura is still complaining that it won't fit. It does look like you scaled the model down a bit? Can you share that percentage?
@@breezett93 It probably will be. I'm not sure what to tell you about it saying it's out of bounds. I don't think I had to scale it down at all but I was using S3D
@@GalacticArmory in the Killonious files the aerator and ear pieces are a part of the helmet and can't be print separately and i'm sure it will be better to print it separately Thanks for your reply
If you cut your helmets correct you would be able to swap out helmet faces like the BARC and respirator in a modular fashion. If you used magnets you could quickly swap them out
How do you hollow out a helmet when you are sculpting it?
@@johnconnor6735 The helmet is not actually a solid: The printer prints the shell of the helmet (normal helmet stuff), and will add supports in places where it's necessary, like ridges.
I'm setting up for a 1.5 ARC bucket on my CR-10. I can't fit it in as one piece at 45° but this is a neat idea for the lower part. I've cut up the file to fit in a similar fashion to what you did as well.
hey! I've been looking for that helmet, do you know where I can find the file?
@@elijahhudgins7579 www.cgtrader.com/3d-print-models/miniatures/sci-fi/phase-2-arc-trooper-helmet
Hmm that kinda looks Luke a phase 2 helmet, maybe I’m just not as good with helmets as I thought
It has the fin instead of the Mohawk. In the series, you only saw the 1.5 a couple of times before they went to the 2 as well. In the series the ear caps were smooth on 1.5 as well.
I thought this is what it looks like
clonewars.fandom.com/wiki/Blitz
Cool video. Supports are the bane of my 3d printing world! I begrudgingly accept them as a necessary evil but im am too frugal for soooo much waste. Alot of people say its only plastic but my thought is plastic is money. Got some good plastic saving tips here so thanks a bunch.
Tank you very much! Ive been looking for a clone trooper helmet, but I have no CAD software, 3d printer or accessories, and you recommended all of them in your description, thank you
PS I subbed
Great work on these helmets! I was wondering what the measurements you use for your helmets. I find all the models online seem far too large
I grabbed the phase 2 helmet model on thingiverse and I scaled all of the pieces by 10 % its just snug enough not to need padding
@@AutomateYourMind how big is your head if you don’t mind me asking? I‘ll probably have to print a smaller helmet for my cosplay and don’t really know how to get the right size as those helmets tend to be a bit tricky imo
Thanks for the video. Have you done a check for the face and backface could be rotated 90 degrees instead? I think you could have lot less supports, especially for the face.
great vid . just started my tie fighter helmet..it will be my first helmet ill leave ya review once its finished so i can post a pic wish me luck
How did it come out? If you have a link please reply I would love to see it. I just bought his ARC model and am going to start the process soon.
You sir have inspired me 😁 instant sub
Question: New to 3d printing myself. I purchased your Mandolorian Files, would you recommend 10% infill for all of the pieces? or up it for any of them specifically?
Im also running into an issue of the nozzle clogging after about 20+ hours of printing.
What are your recommendations for fill setting and layer height what do you normally use to make it sturdy
Sorry for all the questions, but I have zero experience, and want to get this first print done right. Can you share your temperature settings and detailed support settings?
I print at 200C for PLA with a 60C heated bed. Supports on everything over 70 degree overhang
I've got an ender 3 so I have to cut up all my helmets, but here's a thought. Model in a support pillar for the center area, so instead of 30 hours worth of support, you can make a single wall pillar with a roof(picture an empty soda bottle). Get it close to the full height and you only need like 10mm tall support structures between that pillar and the inside top of the dome. I've never tried it, but it makes sense in my brain..
Yes I've heard of that as well but haven't tried it myself.
Please do sizing video on this program. That will fit a person
I have printed mine in one piece, with supports only for the top of the lense. 3 days of printing but was a success. The problem was that i used abs while i didnt have an enclosure so i got a lot of cracks. I filled everything, now i have to start sanding once im done printing the rest of the armor.
No idea if you check old videos. But shot in the dark. You had mentioned in a vid about turning the fans on. How do you build fans into the helmets?
Check out henryshelmetfans
Thanks :) this will save me a lot of time and money you’re a legend
You're very welcome!
Galactic Armory hey boss what’s your speed setting and addition and support mods because my default ones are cheeks I keep getting these weird spider legs on the bottom of my print when it should be smooth
All my parts are coming in at around 35-60 HRS how do you get yours to around 28
Im getting mine at 11 days xD
change infill percentages and layer height
@@laughintrollface thank you, ill keep playing with my settings and try to get better print times.. i tried to adjust the speed to 60 instead of 50... but ill give it a try :)
Generally the biggest factors for time are Infill, wall layers, and layer width and layer height
It’s says mm per second the magic number I found for myself is 140
Could you just print in two parts top and bottom I would be interested to see what the supports and time look like great video thanks for Sharing I am new to this 3D printing so any help is very much welcome
Great video, like others this will help cut down print time. Thanks
Thanks so much for this, it’s helped a lot. Is it a CR10S5 you are printing on? That’s what I’m looking at getting next month
What type of filament do you use?
super helpful! thank you for this!!!
Do you change the entry for the head? So that there is no need to cut the helmet and put it at once ? (Really if you don't understant i'm really bad in english)
Do you use a Raft? if so whats you preferred settings?
Hi Galactic! A question... how many kilos did you spend in just one helmet?
Hey I’m having trouble with the phase I helmet that comes with the clone Armour model that you had linked I can’t seem to get it right because it’s slanted a bit for the dome so it ends up separating into like 5 different cuts when I only try to cut the one piece
I've been watching a lot of these videos and I'm a tad confused by a few things. Having built a Stormtrooper helmet the traditional way (styrene / vacuum form) the helmets are often left with overlapping parts that are cut in strategic areas to allow them to be overlapped and riveted together.
In many of these printing videos, I'm seeing the model be sliced either in multiple parts (making a lot of seams), or like this where it is a bit of an all or nothing approach. This confuses me because on almost all helmets there are natural separation areas that would hide seams. For example, on the clone trooper above, there is a natural seam under the brow and under the "ears." If the model was cut along these lines with two overlapping parts, would it not be easier to put back together?
Having additional material that can overlap means that you always have material to fill gaps. Riveting two parts together in an overlap and then sawing / cutting them together will result in a gap that is equal on both sides (think of cutting a silicone mold up the back). Then, parts like the "mohawk", "ears", back details, etc" can be placed over the seams further hiding them. Same goes for the mic tips and other details.
In fact, the advantage of 3D printing seems to be that you could physically model the overlap so the parts have large surface areas to join to. The gaps are also not holes so much as lines, making filling them much easier due to having backing material.
Thoughts?
What kind of changes would you make to the settings if you were to use peteg filament?
that small of support area for the dome?? wont the rest of it just fall through when the printer goes to print it? cuz it doesnt defy physics lol
hey can you show me how you would do it as a all in one I have the CR-10 S5 and want to make a life size one and I'm new at printing so what would be the best way to support this?
I know this is an older video but i REALLY NEED HELP!!!! What speeds do you print at?????
I print at 2400 mm /min
@@GalacticArmory Do you feel that 70.0 mm/s might be too fast as a layer hight of 0.3mm?
I just finished printing the face of my helmet! There's quite a bit of flex when I press on the face though, like the inside is hollow. What would you recommend changing?
im considering buying a printer and im wondering if a 220x220x250 bed would work?
Can I run a full helmet without a support on an ender 5 plus?
What is the printing bed size? I have a ender 3 pro, should that bed be big enough
were did you get the helmet?
Is fit possible to make a full size helmet with the ender 3 pro by following this, or is it too small of a print space
Have you done a commando
What difference would 20% infill make?
You would have more support pieces to break off. Meaning you use even more material for each print.
im looking to buy a 3d printer. Which one is better CR-10 or Artillery Sidewinder X1
CR-10 V2 is pretty much the best printer out there for printing helmets and armour. The standard CR-10 is quite hard to come by now and is no where near as good as the V2.
@@StatikKillers tnx
I noticed the band around the forehead doesn’t have supports on it. Does it print okay like this? Cura puts supports under it and it adds a ton of plastic.
I have this problem too! I used 65 degrees for the supports and there is so much plastic under the band at the top, how do you fix this problem?
You should do a 3d printing tutorial on Mandalorian helmets!
He's done a few tutorials on Mando helmets. Both Dinns helmet and also the Heavy Mandalorian from season 1 just look back in his videos on his channel.
@@StatikKillers I went through all of his videos, I didn't see any printer formatting tutorials.
What 3D cad software do u use?
When I add supports at 70 degrees, Why does it generate supports in many places where they aren’t in your video? Also, i pretty much have the same settings as this video but my front face clocks in at 52 hours, can anyone help me?
Do you sell the printfiles?
Yep, you can find them all on GalacticArmory.net
Would it be possible if I can pay you so I can buy a helmet print it would be appreciated if I can?
Could you pass me your print profile? thanks
you made want to dfo what you are doing!
I tried rotating the model 45 degrees to fit in one go, but Cura is still complaining that it won't fit. It does look like you scaled the model down a bit? Can you share that percentage?
Do you have a CR-10? What's your build volume?
@@GalacticArmory I have a CR-10s; 300x300x400. Scaling it down to 92% made it fit, but I'm worried that's too small.
@@breezett93 It probably will be. I'm not sure what to tell you about it saying it's out of bounds. I don't think I had to scale it down at all but I was using S3D
how much plastic would a full helmet roughly cost, im going to use your 3D file for an arf helm and i cant find how much filament to buy
2 kg's will be plenty
@@GalacticArmory but it says about 1 kg in the left corner in the video where you see the time and so doesnt it?
@@wilmerkvarnangen6805 Filament generally comes in 2 kg rolls
No filament generally comes in 1kg spools which is 2.2lbs. You can get bigger ones, but the most common is 1kg spools.
How long did it take you to print these helmets? For me it’ll apparently take 140 hours for 12 pieces. Is that correct or just me?
What program is user here, and is it free?
The link for the files is dead
Could you please reupload it?
It's been fixed!
@@GalacticArmory thanks but i was hoping to have the files you did in your video in 3 part
@@GalacticArmory in the Killonious files the aerator and ear pieces are a part of the helmet and can't be print separately and i'm sure it will be better to print it separately
Thanks for your reply
how do you actually use a 3D pronter
Is there a way to buy these? But if not it ok
Galacticarmory.net
Will this software work for any printer? (Simplify 3D)
I don't want to say any printer but it supports a few dozen at least
Is the blue masking tape necessary? Have you tried printing helmets without it?
It's not necessary but it helps the prints stick to the bed better
Whats the name of youre program
It's Simplify 3D the name is on the left top of the screen
How big is your printer
300x300x400 mm
Galactic Armory is that printing size ore the actual size of the printer?
@@kristophermahaffey9765 printing size
Could you 3d print this helmet without cutting it into pieces on the ender 3?
Bruh you need to find another page with the same printer amazon has none
It should be fixed now
beeg baby
Can I run a full helmet without a support on an ender 5 plus?