Great video I really mean it, took the time to make sure the picture was adjusted and took your time explaining. My shift rod came out during adjustment and couldn’t get it to screw back in this video showed me what’s in there without having to take everything apart and learn myself Edit: ended up fixing it did it without that wire fishing tool but it was a pain in the neck but it can be done
You can also use a hose clamp to hold in the detent balls. Adjust it to a size slightly larger than the prop shaft and it will slide up the shaft as the shaft is inserted into the clutch dog. A shift rod locator tool can be made by cutting off the threaded portion of a proper size bolt and soldering it onto some cable. It wasn't pretty but it worked.
I used the grease holding method and got lucky on the first try. If I would've seen your comment I probably would have used your method. It seems a lot safer in that you wont have to worry about the ball bearing and spring popping out and getting lodged somewhere. Good advice
I had great luck removing the shift seal. I removed the shift rod about six turns CCW, then tapped a 5/16” by 18 tap into the shift seal bushing around 6-7 threads cut into the shift seal bushing. Installed a plate like you did mine, was two steal plates on top. Then a foot long all thread 5/16” by 18 thread. Installed two thick fender washers, applied by 5/16” 18 nut. Held the all thread from turning with vise grips, should have double nutted like you did, another nut was placed down on the all thread on the double plates and tightened the nut at the plate bushing and seal came right out. Cleaned out cavity with long cotton swabs and Vaseline to pull out tap shavings, I also when tapping had Vaseline on the tap to catch the shavings. I did not remove the prop shaft, gears, or shift dog. Worked great.
Thanks for the video. I literally just finished replacing my oil seals, rear carrier o'ring seal and drained out and put in new gear oil. Probably saved a couple hundred bucks. Here on the west coast they really charge you a lot at the shop to fix anything. i bought everything for about 70 bucks, that's including the gear oil and about an hour of my time. The shops here want 80 bucks just to diagnose the problem. Much appreciated.
I put one of these together today and instead of the shift rod locator tool I just used a piece of sheathed 20 gauge copper wire with a couple of bends on the end to hold it in place. Worked perfectly. I had trouble getting the pinion gear in, so I used the same wire with a big blob of bends on the end to assist, which also worked well.
I have done a lot of gear cases but I hit a snag today with a 85 9.9 I have always installed the shift dog with thriple guard grease on to the detent balls I tried all after noon to install the shaft in the gear case never had enough clearance to pull up on the prop shat to get the shift dog onto the shift collar . I found there is no way to do it with this gear case. I finally got away from it tonight. I did not know you could put triple guard on the balls and hold them in place ? I don't have the tool to pull out the shift shaft bushing I took a mirror and looked inside up where the bushing is and there were no seals or washer in there I had no idea you had to pull the bushing to replace the rod seal like I said don't a lot of gear cases and resealed Mercruiser drives but never come across a gear case like this. you have really helped me a lot thank you! Hope you see this note
To all those who cannot access a shift locator tool, use a 50cm piece of soldering wire. With A LOT of attempts and patience align the shifter to the whole at the shift rod bushing and use a pair of long nose plyers to hold the shifter and forward gear while you pull out the soldering wire (it comes out cos it’s very soft metal). HAVE THE LOWER SHIFT ROD CLOSE BY and insert and turn clockwise until you think you have the shifter screwed on. If you don’t manage, 48 times and you’ll succeed 😅
Installing the detent balls, I used Electricians tape to hold them in place. The tape slid right off as I inserted shaft. If you look very closely. The shaft only meshes with the gear one way. I just finished doing this on two 15 hps I own. Also made my own seal pullers. pullers. Thanks for sharing !
It actually went pretty good. A trick I came up with. When you pull the outside gear casing. I drilled the center hole on my puller, big enough, so it would fit over the splined shaft. My housing came off, the first time, without extra nuts or spacers. Pulled the seals out of the prop shaft housing, with a 1/4" threaded rod, two nuts, and a washer, that I ground oval shape, and a few more washers simply used as spacers... I really need to post a pic.
Invaluable, just rebuilt my lower unit after "studying" your videos, great job. If you're ever in Greece I'll happily be buying the beers. (Had to fabricate all the specific tooling, no chance finding those here and your videos are so good I could fabricate everything I needed from screenshots)
Great videos! I want to order the blind hole puller. I was curious what size would be needed. Didn't want to buy a large kit if I don't have to. Thanks again for the videos
Great video. Helped me a lot! Unfortunately my lower bearing on the upper prop shaft right where the piñon gear sits is toast. I was wondering if you had any tips on replacing it since it only seems to be accessible from the bottom, so a slide hammer is a no go. Thanks in advance
Love watching your videos i have learned so much i have a question will that icon puller set from harbor freight work for this it looks like a very well made puller kit
Would it be possible to have the dimensions for the seal insertion tools as i would like to make my own .Also the dimensions for the shifter seal pulling tool , Great video helped me a lot so far . Nikk
First, excellent video, very informative. I have 2 questions. 1) Can you elaborate on the clutch dog orientation? Which way does it go in the assembly 2) can you share the part # for the shift rod locators tool?
'Groves' go forward. I don't know what that means exactly. Some have round ring groves of the face, so thats easy to figure out. Some I've seen are identical forward and back; I find it best to mark it. 0319991 Is the Yoke Locator Tool
Hello Brandon, I changed out the propellor seal on my 1996 9.9 Evinrude after cutting it with fishing line. The ball and detent spring came out and I was wondering if I could simply reinstall it without taking apart anything past the propshaft and detent balls and spring. I heard you say if you messed pushing the ball and spring in youd have to do it all over again. Just hoping I don't have to mess with pivot pin, what do you think? Thanks!
For the new seal for lower unit , does it matter which way you press the seal in. Looks like from your video the the smaller inner part that sticks out further should be on the outside ?
Can you add links to description for buying all of these tools? I have a '92 johnson 15hp long, essentially same as yours.. Your tools and method makes it look easier.. hopefully i can try keep as cool and collected..
When you install the drive shaft, that should turn the propeller shaft, right? What if I can’t get my drive shaft fully seated to Thurman the prop shaft?
When I drove the shift rod bushing back in on my 1982Johnson 15, it stuck out of the hole about a sixteenth. I can't remember if it was flush before. Did that one in the video go all the way or did some of it stick out. Thanks for sharing this, I wouldn't have tried it without seeing it done.
I believe I even checked another gearcase to see where it was. It seems like it was nearly flush. Pound it in a bit more if its not too late, I think it squeezes the parts together. Glad you tried it, its not too bad once you dig in and have done it. Sounds like the video helped?
I for got ive got all the omc speciality tool parts numbers. The yoke locator is absolutely indispensable when resealing and rebuilding these lower units. Without it it makes you want to throw your tools across the driveway trust me I know. LOL
Gday Brandon, awesome video. I am servicing the seals on this gearbox for a 9.9 'circa 82 model. I intend to use the leg for an electric conversion (yacht). My question is, since the main motor is removed can I, or should I fill the cavities that intake water to the impeller or any other now unnecessary cavity? e.g. with a sprayfoam or epoxy to displace the water/inhibit water ingress, the theory being to keep water out. Thanks. G.
Water is getting into the housing no matter what (You can't exactly seal up the prop) I don't think I would worry about it. You could use the water pump as cooling for the batteries or motor though.
@@BrandonsGarage This darn shifter bushing will not come out. Can you tell me what diameter is the "remover" tool? I have fabricated my own slide-hammer-esque tool (remover is 10mm diameter) but she ain't moving. thinking it might be too big.
Question: It seems to me they built that prop shaft seal for the small side to fit in first? I have seen other youtube videos were they put the smaller circle side facing in. So confuse who is right here.
Was the gear box in neutral when you adjust the shift shaft at 27/64?My 9.9 does not always come out of gear .I have to bump it back or forward alittle sometime to get it in neutral.Not really sure what may cause this?
Guy told me it was runing_ rite! Now I have to learn this; 15 Mercury. 92- most parts have bin robbed off. Looks like it. I can turn fly Wheel easy with my hand, got 2 check compression rite?
all good friend, I'm doing maintenance on my 1995 johnson 15hp engine I have a doubt in the assembly on the side of the differential adjustment? can you help me? did you put the pencil mark up or down on the differential adjustment?
Here a tip for everybody that wasn't covered before installing the seals take triple guard and grease all of your inner bearings for prop shaft carrier and the upper bearing for the drive shaft . Also after you install your seals back to back take triple guard and grease inside the seal area before installing your prop and drive shafts . Had a OMC cert tech tell me this
LOCATOR - YOKE PART NO. 319991 For 9.9 and 15 HP. This flexible cable is used as a pull cable to install the shifter lever and yoke assembly into the gearcase. Makes quick work of what could be a temper-testing job. what is the diameter of the thread? 1/4 20 ??
I found the tool for 65.00 bucks.I just couldn’t see myself spending that amount of money for a piece of small cable with a bolt attached.So I went to Home Depot and spent .88 cents and bought a #10~24 machine bolt,drilled a small hole in the center and cut the head off.Took an old bicycle brake cable fed it in the whole and soldered it in or you can use jb.weld and saved money and time..Thank you..
Thanks for this video.Does the groove for clutch dog balls go whole way around inside of it.Hard to see.Would Indian Head gasket Compound work ok..Been around for years and used it on cars and would never use a can that big you use?Specs for shift rod are a bonus.Was rod in reverse position?
It did, on both sides too, making an incorrect install quite easy. I tried to find a different between the two sides, aside from the slight groves, I count find one. Not quite sure why it needs to be install that way, but every manual is quite clear on this. It was in neutral. During the rebuild, it just kind of stays out of gear.
Also, not sure about the Indian compound. Probably would though. I agree, that can is too big. It'll dry up and get clumpy before I use it. I have a smaller bottle, but I cant get the top off. That came with a box of but stuff someone gave me awhile back.
Hi Brandon, thanks for the video, it’s a big help in rebuilding my lower unit. Where can I find a jaw puller slide hammer like you used to remove the drive shaft seals from the upper part of the lower unit. Thanks
The best price on the seal/jaw tool is currently on ebay: rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575301501&toolid=10001&campid=5338087097&customid=&icep_item=282912927842&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229466&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg then you'll need to get thread adapter # 0334358, and slide hammer 0391008. (Which you would need anyway for the shift rod seal) Also, why my other seal removal video to see how the puller bridge works: th-cam.com/video/MCXF-r6IAYM/w-d-xo.html Then give my DIY version a watch: th-cam.com/video/UAGW0EMKziA/w-d-xo.html
That is a $195 tool that you got for $67. I was shocked at the price when I bought mine, unit i saw how well built it is; take care of it. You'll probably wind up using it for everything. Even if you only use it once, resell it for what you paid for it. If you buy the parts from boats.net tell them you were refereed by me. I'm hoping to get their attention and send me a shirt or something. ;)
Yeah I know, the only other one I saw was $185 so I'm glad this one was available even if it takes a while getting here from England, it'll be worth the wait. I have 2 possibly 3 lowers I'm going to rebuild and will probably never get rid of the puller. You"re right I probably will use it for lots of things. I'm addicted to old obsolete stuff especially specialty tools. I found a yoke locator now what I hope to get is the tool to pull the shift rod bushing. Thanks again.
Thats 0327693, its less the $25 new. Don't see them too often on ebay. In the 1975 manual, it was recommended to grind round a 1/4-20 nut and use that to pull it out. I find the tool to be a better idea.
Crowley has it but for 65 bucks..You can make it for a whole lot less .I did with an old bike brake cable,10~24 Machine screw,drill a small hole in the center,slide in the cable and seal it with Jb weld and it worked great.
Very easy to make.I used a bicycle brake cable and cut off about 14 inches.Went to Home Depot and purchased +10~24 machine screw,drilled a hole dead center in about half inch,slid the cable in and secured it with jb weld..Worked perfectly.
Do you by chance know tge thread were the slide hammer connects to the removal tool??? Sorry for all the questions thinking outside the box and trying to make my own slide hammer thanks again
Good morning Brandon. Please, whats the measure of the o-ring at min 1:20 in this video? is this in inch or a metrical measure? Thank you for your videos!😊👍
At 1:50 when you removed the drive shaft , it looks different from mine 1978 Johnson 15hp drive shaft. Mine had a NUT, bolt on it and it won’t go further down ? What can it be ?
I got the bushing out, I made my own tool, however there’s not bottom piece to the bushing. According to the parts diagram there should be a plastic washer. I got the seal kit and there’s plastic washer in there that looks like it so I should be fine on that. Where can I get shift rod locater tool?
Brandon's Garage actually you went front to front with the drive shaft seals... front I’m assuming is the flat part of the seal... everyone else is installing them open ended sides together
Also my motor seems to have a hard time going into forward gear. Could it be a bad gear ? Or auto salt corrosion ok the shift rod ? Motor goes into neutral and reverse just fine
OMR Jordan I’m a noob when it come to these motors sorry. I wish I knew . I really wish I can fix this tho. It’s a great engine . Thanks for the help in advance if you can guide me that would be great .
Hey brandon! i couldnt find the previous video of the tool you used to get the prop hub carrier out. can you link that part number or where you bought it? also The seal puller kit that you used to take the prop seals out had a slide hammer in it. can you use that to get the shift shaft bushing out? thanks again!
Here is the link to the video: th-cam.com/video/0gx77O0-5Vg/w-d-xo.html And yes, you need that slide hammer for the bushing; to use with the newer evinrude seal pullers you 'll need to use an adapter. see all at: everythingoutboards.com/brp/tools/391008.html
Finally got those pesky seals out! Last question I swear.. is there a certain depth they need to be pressed in? If using a socket I am not sure how to measure that. Should they bottom out? btw you need a donate button! I would like to donate to you for your information and time!
Well, Are you using 2 back-to-back seals, or the newer single lip seal? I suppose that is good to know information if you don't have the seal tool. Perhaps I'll start measuring the depth for everyone to know. Anywho, never got a donation before. Seems quite exciting. You can click 'Brandon's Garage' Then you can see the little Paypal donate button on the bottom right.
I have the OEM kit.. so I have two back to back seals for the drive shaft, and a single lip seal for the prop shaft. managed to get the shift shaft bushing out too, which is a miracle!
I can't find the seal installer tools for either the new or the old style. Tried that part number and it didn't come up with anything. I'd like to pick them up as well.
@@BrandonsGarage Yes according the the diagram an part number 0343251 2003 10 hp. 2cycle so that got me puzzle I know one came out (I lost it) when to order look at part an diagram an it shows two.
Hmm.. not sure what you mean? The extractor is nearly the same as what you show in your video.. I put it into the center hole of the seal, far enough but not touching the bearing. Tighten the nut so the extractor expands inside the hole.. then screw the slide hammer on. I can move the extractor forward or backward a little bit in the hole.. then I give it a good rap with the slide hammer. I do not have the jaw puller tool however :|
Boats.net! Need to use the 7 digit part number though. So its 0326554 (instead of 326554) Tell them I sent you! (it wont save you any money, I just hoping to get noticed so they give me a discount)
If it would not be screwed in the right depth would it affect the motor ? because when I’m running the motor at full speed it would jump out of gear But when I slow down it goes back into gear do you think it 🤔could be the same problem that I didn’t look at the height of the gearbox Lever ? My fear is that the dog clutch and the gear is slightly eaten out but if it could be in the lever problem it’s easier fix If it is just To adjust the height of the lever!??? I would appreciate your thoughts and your opinion?😊 thank you, ur video was very easy to understand
Got it.. now to clean this crusty stuff off of everything. What do you use to clean around these seals so they aren't damage when you put them back in?
Ive problem with my lower unit,johnson 10 hp sj10rpb.. ive change new impeller,but still water cant go up.. when i pull out the lower unit,my engine nicely start up,but if i install the lower unit,too hard to start .. can i get ur num so i can learn more sir? Maybe through whatsap?
Is the bend in the shifter rod normal? Mine looks identical to the one you removed. I thought it was bent during servicing. Wondering if it should be straightened.
I built one using a 1/4" threaded rod and one inch long Joiner nut.Slide the rod down and screw it into the Nut all the way through. At the top I used a piece of 1/4" - 3/8" flat stock with a 5/16 hole and tightened down a 1/4" nut until popped out. It acted like a Puller. ...And you KNOW those PULLER BOYS!
Thanks for the reply Mike. I did try the 1/4 in rod puller trick but it only stripped the treads. It was really stuck! I finally did get it out by beefing up the rod. I welded a 1/4 bolt into a long 1/2 in coupler. Then screwed that onto a 1/2 in rod with a peice of flat stock and nuts at the top. It pop right out.
Hi Brandon,EXCELLENT video. lol Did you know that you have an accent? lol Question,..the measurement (11/32 - 7/16), what gear is that in? FWD, NEUT,or REV? Thanks man,keep giving us info that no one thinks to ask about until it's too late! ...Mike
You’re the reason the internet is beautiful. Thanks for doing this.
Great video I really mean it, took the time to make sure the picture was adjusted and took your time explaining. My shift rod came out during adjustment and couldn’t get it to screw back in this video showed me what’s in there without having to take everything apart and learn myself
Edit: ended up fixing it did it without that wire fishing tool but it was a pain in the neck but it can be done
You can also use a hose clamp to hold in the detent balls. Adjust it to a size slightly larger than the prop shaft and it will slide up the shaft as the shaft is inserted into the clutch dog. A shift rod locator tool can be made by cutting off the threaded portion of a proper size bolt and soldering it onto some cable. It wasn't pretty but it worked.
I used the grease holding method and got lucky on the first try. If I would've seen your comment I probably would have used your method. It seems a lot safer in that you wont have to worry about the ball bearing and spring popping out and getting lodged somewhere. Good advice
I had great luck removing the shift seal. I removed the shift rod about six turns CCW, then tapped a 5/16” by 18 tap into the shift seal bushing around 6-7 threads cut into the shift seal bushing. Installed a plate like you did mine, was two steal plates on top. Then a foot long all thread 5/16” by 18 thread. Installed two thick fender washers, applied by 5/16” 18 nut. Held the all thread from turning with vise grips, should have double nutted like you did, another nut was placed down on the all thread on the double plates and tightened the nut at the plate bushing and seal came right out. Cleaned out cavity with long cotton swabs and Vaseline to pull out tap shavings, I also when tapping had Vaseline on the tap to catch the shavings. I did not remove the prop shaft, gears, or shift dog. Worked great.
Thanks for the video. I literally just finished replacing my oil seals, rear carrier o'ring seal and drained out and put in new gear oil. Probably saved a couple hundred bucks. Here on the west coast they really charge you a lot at the shop to fix anything. i bought everything for about 70 bucks, that's including the gear oil and about an hour of my time. The shops here want 80 bucks just to diagnose the problem. Much appreciated.
I put one of these together today and instead of the shift rod locator tool I just used a piece of sheathed 20 gauge copper wire with a couple of bends on the end to hold it in place. Worked perfectly. I had trouble getting the pinion gear in, so I used the same wire with a big blob of bends on the end to assist, which also worked well.
I rebuild omc lowers all the time. He makes look so easy!!
Brandon great video! Thanks for taking the time to film it. That is better then any manual I've ever read.
Thank you very much for the easy explanation. All the best from NZ.
It is a pleasure to watch you work
I have done a lot of gear cases but I hit a snag today with a 85 9.9 I have always installed the shift dog with thriple guard grease on to the detent balls I tried all after noon to install the shaft in the gear case never had enough clearance to pull up on the prop shat to get the shift dog onto the shift collar . I found there is no way to do it with this gear case. I finally got away from it tonight. I did not know you could put triple guard on the balls and hold them in place ? I don't have the tool to pull out the shift shaft bushing I took a mirror and looked inside up where the bushing is and there were no seals or washer in there I had no idea you had to pull the bushing to replace the rod seal like I said don't a lot of gear cases and resealed Mercruiser drives but never come across a gear case like this. you have really helped me a lot thank you! Hope you see this note
To all those who cannot access a shift locator tool, use a 50cm piece of soldering wire. With A LOT of attempts and patience align the shifter to the whole at the shift rod bushing and use a pair of long nose plyers to hold the shifter and forward gear while you pull out the soldering wire (it comes out cos it’s very soft metal). HAVE THE LOWER SHIFT ROD CLOSE BY and insert and turn clockwise until you think you have the shifter screwed on. If you don’t manage, 48 times and you’ll succeed 😅
What a great how to video. Best one I’ve found.
Thanks for your vids...the time, the know how, all if it is appreciated. I'm getting through my rebuild knowing what to expect, thank you.
I guess you do have all the toys ... I mean tools ! I don’t know if I like that style or the split gear case better !
Installing the detent balls, I used Electricians tape to hold them in place. The tape slid right off as I inserted shaft.
If you look very closely. The shaft only meshes with the gear one way. I just finished doing this on two 15 hps I own. Also made my own seal pullers. pullers. Thanks for sharing !
I was thinking of using one of the 20hp tubes, but figured the screwdriver would help it enough.
How did yours go? Any problems?
It actually went pretty good. A trick I came up with. When you pull the outside gear casing. I drilled the center hole on my puller, big enough, so it would fit over the splined shaft. My housing came off, the first time, without extra nuts or spacers. Pulled the seals out of the prop shaft housing, with a 1/4" threaded rod, two nuts, and a washer, that I ground oval shape, and a few more washers simply used as spacers... I really need to post a pic.
Excelente trabajo de resellado de la unidad inferior, con mucha destreza, gracias por compartir tus conocimientos. Saludos desde Venezuela,
Invaluable, just rebuilt my lower unit after "studying" your videos, great job. If you're ever in Greece I'll happily be buying the beers. (Had to fabricate all the specific tooling, no chance finding those here and your videos are so good I could fabricate everything I needed from screenshots)
great job. I looked at other videos. really glad I found yours
Great videos! I want to order the blind hole puller. I was curious what size would be needed. Didn't want to buy a large kit if I don't have to. Thanks again for the videos
Great video. Helped me a lot! Unfortunately my lower bearing on the upper prop shaft right where the piñon gear sits is toast. I was wondering if you had any tips on replacing it since it only seems to be accessible from the bottom, so a slide hammer is a no go.
Thanks in advance
Love watching your videos i have learned so much i have a question will that icon puller set from harbor freight work for this it looks like a very well made puller kit
Would it be possible to have the dimensions for the seal insertion tools as i would like to make my own .Also the dimensions for the shifter seal pulling tool , Great video helped me a lot so far . Nikk
All these special tools are great if you are in the business. Make your own, it ain't the space shuttle.
Taryl fan!
Thank you very much for this quide. I was looking for linkage rod adjustment. So it should be between 8-11mm
Thanks about to track down the install tools and tackle one of my leaking lower units.
Couldn't find any install tools.I still managed to get it resealed. No water in the gear oil yet.Thanks again.
First, excellent video, very informative. I have 2 questions.
1) Can you elaborate on the clutch dog orientation? Which way does it go in the assembly
2) can you share the part # for the shift rod locators tool?
'Groves' go forward.
I don't know what that means exactly. Some have round ring groves of the face, so thats easy to figure out. Some
I've seen are identical forward and back; I find it best to mark it.
0319991 Is the Yoke Locator Tool
Hello Brandon, I changed out the propellor seal on my 1996 9.9 Evinrude after cutting it with fishing line. The ball and detent spring came out and I was wondering if I could simply reinstall it without taking apart anything past the propshaft and detent balls and spring. I heard you say if you messed pushing the ball and spring in youd have to do it all over again. Just hoping I don't have to mess with pivot pin, what do you think? Thanks!
Great instructional video.Thank you.
For the new seal for lower unit , does it matter which way you press the seal in. Looks like from your video the the smaller inner part that sticks out further should be on the outside ?
Can you add links to description for buying all of these tools? I have a '92 johnson 15hp long, essentially same as yours.. Your tools and method makes it look easier.. hopefully i can try keep as cool and collected..
You can go to this website for a complete list.
Its for 1989, but same thing; everythingoutboards.com/brp/toolsbyyear/1989.html
When you install the drive shaft, that should turn the propeller shaft, right? What if I can’t get my drive shaft fully seated to Thurman the prop shaft?
I used a zip tie to hold the balls. Works for me. 😊
When I drove the shift rod bushing back in on my 1982Johnson 15, it stuck out of the hole about a sixteenth. I can't remember if it was flush before. Did that one in the video go all the way or did some of it stick out. Thanks for sharing this, I wouldn't have tried it without seeing it done.
I believe I even checked another gearcase to see where it was.
It seems like it was nearly flush.
Pound it in a bit more if its not too late, I think it squeezes the parts together.
Glad you tried it, its not too bad once you dig in and have done it. Sounds like the video helped?
Great job thanks now I know how to reseal a 15 hp lower unit thanks for your info
great video! thanks for your help!
I for got ive got all the omc speciality tool parts numbers. The yoke locator is absolutely indispensable when resealing and rebuilding these lower units. Without it it makes you want to throw your tools across the driveway trust me I know. LOL
Gday Brandon, awesome video. I am servicing the seals on this gearbox for a 9.9 'circa 82 model. I intend to use the leg for an electric conversion (yacht). My question is, since the main motor is removed can I, or should I fill the cavities that intake water to the impeller or any other now unnecessary cavity? e.g. with a sprayfoam or epoxy to displace the water/inhibit water ingress, the theory being to keep water out. Thanks. G.
Water is getting into the housing no matter what (You can't exactly seal up the prop)
I don't think I would worry about it.
You could use the water pump as cooling for the batteries or motor though.
@@BrandonsGarage This darn shifter bushing will not come out. Can you tell me what diameter is the "remover" tool? I have fabricated my own slide-hammer-esque tool (remover is 10mm diameter) but she ain't moving. thinking it might be too big.
Sou do Brasil vejo seus vídeos muito bom me ajudou muito na manutenção nessa bucha da hast de engate de marcha ok
Question: It seems to me they built that prop shaft seal for the small side to fit in first? I have seen other youtube videos were they put the smaller circle side facing in. So confuse who is right here.
Thanks for the upload, very detailed as usual... nice work. Any luck on finding a powerhead for your Enforcer?
Спасибо дед, выручил со сборкой редуктора от этого мкастодонта :)
Was the gear box in neutral when you adjust the shift shaft at 27/64?My 9.9 does not always come out of gear .I have to bump it back or forward alittle sometime to get it in neutral.Not really sure what may cause this?
Guy told me it was runing_ rite! Now I have to learn this; 15 Mercury. 92- most parts have bin robbed off. Looks like it. I can turn fly Wheel easy with my hand, got 2 check compression rite?
Correct, but if youre missing that many parts, buying a complete engine (broken or not) would probably be a better idea.
I’ve been searching for the new tool 326554 but with no luck.Can you tell me who has it?
If I sent you my 1982 15hp could you reseal it and replace forward gear? It jumps out of gear. If so about how much could you do it for?
brandon do you do mail in gearcase rebuilds on the 9.9 and 15 hp lower units?
all good friend, I'm doing maintenance on my 1995 johnson 15hp engine I have a doubt in the assembly on the side of the differential adjustment? can you help me? did you put the pencil mark up or down on the differential adjustment?
So on 15 hp shifter is forward of forward gear but on 20 hp is outside the reverse gear?
Here a tip for everybody that wasn't covered before installing the seals take triple guard and grease all of your inner bearings for prop shaft carrier and the upper bearing for the drive shaft . Also after you install your seals back to back take triple guard and grease inside the seal area before installing your prop and drive shafts . Had a OMC cert tech tell me this
At 37m is that spec from reverse, neutral, or forward?
Is there a difference in a shifter dog between the years 1974 thru 1984 2 lug model
LOCATOR - YOKE
PART NO. 319991
For 9.9 and 15 HP. This flexible cable is used as a pull cable to install the shifter lever and yoke assembly into the gearcase. Makes quick work of what could be a temper-testing job.
what is the diameter of the thread? 1/4 20 ??
Thank you for that part number.
I found the tool for 65.00 bucks.I just couldn’t see myself spending that amount of money for a piece of small cable with a bolt attached.So I went to Home Depot and spent .88 cents and bought a #10~24 machine bolt,drilled a small hole in the center and cut the head off.Took an old bicycle brake cable fed it in the whole and soldered it in or you can use jb.weld and saved money and time..Thank you..
The thread size needed was#10~24 machine screw.
Where did you get the shift locator, what is the part number?
What size tap do you use on the leg holes
Thanks for this video.Does the groove for clutch dog balls go whole way around inside of it.Hard to see.Would Indian Head gasket Compound work ok..Been around for years and used it on cars and would never use a can that big you use?Specs for shift rod are a bonus.Was rod in reverse position?
It did, on both sides too, making an incorrect install quite easy.
I tried to find a different between the two sides, aside from the slight groves, I count find one.
Not quite sure why it needs to be install that way, but every manual is quite clear on this.
It was in neutral. During the rebuild, it just kind of stays out of gear.
Also, not sure about the Indian compound. Probably would though.
I agree, that can is too big. It'll dry up and get clumpy before I use it.
I have a smaller bottle, but I cant get the top off. That came with a box of but stuff someone gave me awhile back.
Hi Brandon, thanks for the video, it’s a big help in rebuilding my lower unit. Where can I find a jaw puller slide hammer like you used to remove the drive shaft seals from the upper part of the lower unit. Thanks
The best price on the seal/jaw tool is currently on ebay: rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575301501&toolid=10001&campid=5338087097&customid=&icep_item=282912927842&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229466&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg
then you'll need to get thread adapter # 0334358, and slide hammer 0391008.
(Which you would need anyway for the shift rod seal)
Also, why my other seal removal video to see how the puller bridge works: th-cam.com/video/MCXF-r6IAYM/w-d-xo.html
Then give my DIY version a watch: th-cam.com/video/UAGW0EMKziA/w-d-xo.html
Thanks I ordered the puller and I’ll get the adapter and slide hammer coming too. I appreciate it.
That is a $195 tool that you got for $67. I was shocked at the price when I bought mine, unit i saw how well built it is; take care of it. You'll probably wind up using it for everything.
Even if you only use it once, resell it for what you paid for it.
If you buy the parts from boats.net tell them you were refereed by me. I'm hoping to get their attention and send me a shirt or something.
;)
Yeah I know, the only other one I saw was $185 so I'm glad this one was available even if it takes a while getting here from England, it'll be worth the wait. I have 2 possibly 3 lowers I'm going to rebuild and will probably never get rid of the puller. You"re right I probably will use it for lots of things. I'm addicted to old obsolete stuff especially specialty tools. I found a yoke locator now what I hope to get is the tool to pull the shift rod bushing. Thanks again.
Thats 0327693, its less the $25 new. Don't see them too often on ebay.
In the 1975 manual, it was recommended to grind round a 1/4-20 nut and use that to pull it out. I find the tool to be a better idea.
Can you tell me where i can find the gear shift rod cradle puller cable thing for the 15hp Johnson. Thanks!!
Crowley has it but for 65 bucks..You can make it for a whole lot less .I did with an old bike brake cable,10~24 Machine screw,drill a small hole in the center,slide in the cable and seal it with Jb weld and it worked great.
Can you please give me the length and diameter of the tool that the all thread screws into please?
Great video . What is the cable called for pulling shifter through
Its called a Yoke Locator:
www.everythingoutboards.com/brp/tools/319991.html
@@BrandonsGarage A piece of plastic coated electrical wire works just as good. Great video.
Those prop shaft bearings look like a nightmare
Shift locator tool, you have an idea where to buy these ??
Very easy to make.I used a bicycle brake cable and cut off about 14 inches.Went to Home Depot and purchased +10~24 machine screw,drilled a hole dead center in about half inch,slid the cable in and secured it with jb weld..Worked perfectly.
26:18 shift rod locator tool? Where can i buy this? Part number?
Find a bolt that has the same threads as the shift rod then cut the bolt head off and solder the bolt on to some wire
Brandon,
When adjusting the shift rod, what gear is it in?
Nuetral
Thanks!
How much would you charge to rebuild my 1955 Johnson qd16 10 HP outboard
Do you by chance know tge thread were the slide hammer connects to the removal tool??? Sorry for all the questions thinking outside the box and trying to make my own slide hammer thanks again
I believe it is a 1/4-20
When you set the shifter to 7/16 was it in neutral
Nvm seen your response to someone else thanks for working on this with me till 1am lmao
@@tdyer3737 been there before!
Thanks you for this video 👍
Good morning Brandon.
Please, whats the measure of the o-ring at min 1:20 in this video?
is this in inch or a metrical measure?
Thank you for your videos!😊👍
Everything on the outboard will be in inches.
However, I don't know the measurement of the O-ring.
Measure yours when you remove it; if it uses one.
At 1:50 when you removed the drive shaft , it looks different from mine 1978 Johnson 15hp drive shaft. Mine had a NUT, bolt on it and it won’t go further down ? What can it be ?
Then someone messed with it. All omc 9.9 and 15hp lowers just set in the pinion gear.
Where can I get all those special tools?
I got the bushing out, I made my own tool, however there’s not bottom piece to the bushing. According to the parts diagram there should be a plastic washer. I got the seal kit and there’s plastic washer in there that looks like it so I should be fine on that.
Where can I get shift rod locater tool?
Thank you Sir.
Hey Brandon, why are other videos showing the seals installed back to back instead of front to front like you did it?
Well for the prop shaft I installed the newer single lip seal.
For the drive shaft, they were installed back to back.
Brandon's Garage ok so prop shaft seals if you get the Sierra kit go front to front ? When you put them on the old tool you went front to front
Brandon's Garage actually you went front to front with the drive shaft seals... front I’m assuming is the flat part of the seal... everyone else is installing them open ended sides together
Ignore me I watched the video wrong! I get it now my fault thanks again!
Also my motor seems to have a hard time going into forward gear. Could it be a bad gear ? Or auto salt corrosion ok the shift rod ? Motor goes into neutral and reverse just fine
is the shift dog worn?
OMR Jordan I’m a noob when it come to these motors sorry. I wish I knew . I really wish I can fix this tho. It’s a great engine . Thanks for the help in advance if you can guide me that would be great .
Hey brandon! i couldnt find the previous video of the tool you used to get the prop hub carrier out. can you link that part number or where you bought it? also The seal puller kit that you used to take the prop seals out had a slide hammer in it. can you use that to get the shift shaft bushing out? thanks again!
Here is the link to the video: th-cam.com/video/0gx77O0-5Vg/w-d-xo.html
And yes, you need that slide hammer for the bushing; to use with the newer evinrude seal pullers you 'll need to use an adapter.
see all at: everythingoutboards.com/brp/tools/391008.html
Might want to see this video too:
th-cam.com/video/UAGW0EMKziA/w-d-xo.html
Hi do you know where I can get the d10 bearing
D10?
Finally got those pesky seals out! Last question I swear.. is there a certain depth they need to be pressed in? If using a socket I am not sure how to measure that. Should they bottom out?
btw you need a donate button! I would like to donate to you for your information and time!
Well,
Are you using 2 back-to-back seals, or the newer single lip seal?
I suppose that is good to know information if you don't have the seal tool. Perhaps I'll start measuring the depth for everyone to know.
Anywho, never got a donation before. Seems quite exciting.
You can click 'Brandon's Garage' Then you can see the little Paypal donate button on the bottom right.
I have the OEM kit.. so I have two back to back seals for the drive shaft, and a single lip seal for the prop shaft. managed to get the shift shaft bushing out too, which is a miracle!
Yeah, thats a pain even with the tools.
With your kit, I believe the inner seal lip is flush with the outer seal area. Make sense?
Is that for the prop seal or the drive shaft?
Propshaft.
What was the part number of the kit you used
First one here:
www.everythingoutboards.com/brp/gearcase/
For the prop shaft. Would you happen to know what the part number is for the seal installer tool. The one for the sierra kit (x2 seals)
For the double seals?
Tool is 319877 / 0319877
Correct the double seals. I installed mine with a socket, thanks for the info I will be picking one up.
I can't find the seal installer tools for either the new or the old style. Tried that part number and it didn't come up with anything. I'd like to pick them up as well.
how about the tool for the single seal?
No trust washers? There should had been 2 of them in front of the reverse gear. Explain please.
Two? on a 15 hp?
@@BrandonsGarage Yes according the the diagram an part number 0343251 2003 10 hp. 2cycle so that got me puzzle I know one came out (I lost it) when to order look at part an diagram an it shows two.
What is best way to contact you? Thanks
What year is this motor? I have a 77 Evinrude 15
Wondering if this will apply to me universally
1983.
same process as yours
Manual says groves face reverse gear.
can the shift shaft bushing be pushed inside the housing if you can't pull it?
I realized there is a lip down there now.
No. there is a stop down there.
My propshaft seal is STUCK in there. Beating the hell out of it with a slide hammer and the thing will not budge...
Perhaps you're too tight onto the metal housing, and that's why its not sliding?
Hmm.. not sure what you mean? The extractor is nearly the same as what you show in your video.. I put it into the center hole of the seal, far enough but not touching the bearing. Tighten the nut so the extractor expands inside the hole.. then screw the slide hammer on. I can move the extractor forward or backward a little bit in the hole.. then I give it a good rap with the slide hammer. I do not have the jaw puller tool however :|
also those seal installer tools arent available anywhere! lol any tips on where to buy them?
Boats.net!
Need to use the 7 digit part number though.
So its 0326554 (instead of 326554)
Tell them I sent you!
(it wont save you any money, I just hoping to get noticed so they give me a discount)
Brandon's Garage yeah I did that . It says parts unavailable. It’s ok I found it on Crowley marine
Never mind i got it now! Thanks
Ok it’s the remover that’s impossible to find 327693. Crowley not boats.net. Any ideas?
Ok never mind lol found it on usavemarine.com
thank you
Was the gear box in Neutral when adjusting the height??thanks
Was it ?
If it would not be screwed in the right depth would it affect the motor ? because when I’m running the motor at full speed it would jump out of gear But when I slow down it goes back into gear do you think it 🤔could be the same problem that I didn’t look at the height of the gearbox Lever ? My fear is that the dog clutch and the gear is slightly eaten out but if it could be in the lever problem it’s easier fix If it is just To adjust the height of the lever!??? I would appreciate your thoughts and your opinion?😊 thank you, ur video was very easy to understand
I would love to contact you-is there a way?thax,bill
yeah, my email is in the 'about me'
Do you have to remove all of the internals to replace the drive shaft / water pump seal?
No.
Just the driveshaft and water pump need to come out.
Ok great! Thank you so much!
How about the shift shaft seal?
To do it properly, yes.
Got it.. now to clean this crusty stuff off of everything. What do you use to clean around these seals so they aren't damage when you put them back in?
Ive problem with my lower unit,johnson 10 hp sj10rpb.. ive change new impeller,but still water cant go up.. when i pull out the lower unit,my engine nicely start up,but if i install the lower unit,too hard to start .. can i get ur num so i can learn more sir? Maybe through whatsap?
Really need help
Is the bend in the shifter rod normal? Mine looks identical to the one you removed. I thought it was bent during servicing. Wondering if it should be straightened.
That is the way it is supposed to be
for your tap and die, are you using sae or metric?
SAE.
Most every fastener you'll find on a JohnnyRude will be SAE.
Thank you, if you're ever in Florida. I'll take you fishing.
Does anyone know where to get the small slide hammer and adapter to pull the shift rod bushing?
boats.net!
0391008
and
0327693
Pics:
www.everythingoutboards.com/brp/tools/391008.html
www.everythingoutboards.com/brp/tools/327693.html
Thanks!
I built one using a 1/4" threaded rod and one inch long Joiner nut.Slide the rod down and screw it into the Nut all the way through. At the top I used a piece of 1/4" - 3/8" flat stock with a 5/16 hole and tightened down a 1/4" nut until popped out. It acted like a Puller. ...And you KNOW those PULLER BOYS!
Thanks for the reply Mike. I did try the 1/4 in rod puller trick but it only stripped the treads. It was really stuck! I finally did get it out by beefing up the rod. I welded a 1/4 bolt into a long 1/2 in coupler. Then screwed that onto a 1/2 in rod with a peice of flat stock and nuts at the top. It pop right out.
Sorry for the duplicate posts. Not sure what I was doing that caused that.
what does he say at 36:50? 11:30 seconds or 7/16 of an inch. what is 11:30 seconds?! thanks
between 11/32 and 7/16th of an inch.
I think anyway, its hard to understand this dude
thank you lol I think he does say 11/32ndth its just ... yeah he does have a strong accent. thanks again much appreciated
Hi Brandon,EXCELLENT video. lol Did you know that you have an accent? lol Question,..the measurement (11/32 - 7/16), what gear is that in? FWD, NEUT,or REV? Thanks man,keep giving us info that no one thinks to ask about until it's too late! ...Mike
Nice..
wouldn't a belt prop shaft cause vibration?
Belt?
Brandon's Garage ooops! I ment bent
Probably.
But would you ever notice it? Probably not.
Brandon's Garage I prolly would be most would not
Geez. Dangar marine never pointed out the front/back grooves in clutch for balls to enter.
Well, it doesn't seem OMC's are very common for him. In the US & Canada they are everywhere, Australia they are a little rare.
I can’t pull the shaft to out. Any suggestions.
Using the tool, or something else?
No I was just using your pull with the hand technique.
Oh so you already got the bearing housing out, but the shaft wont come out?
Yeah got the reverse gear out but the shaft won’t come out.
Strange, its not that strong.
Why is he holding a cable in the picture there is NO cable in the lower unit. Total BS to get you to look at the vieo
Did you watch the video yet?
Report back when done. 26:14
@@BrandonsGarage yes I did. I have rebuilt many lower units mostly Johnson and evinrude. Never seen or used a cable