The prop seal shaft. Did you grease that before sliding the seals on? Should they ride on a dry shaft or a lubed shaft? Great video and thanks for sharing.
No I pretty much got it all out when it drained and whatever trace amounts will evaporate pretty quickly. But to be sure I check my fluid every other trip since I run 100 mile plus one way most trips.
Got a question- when stacking the seals- aren’t you supposed to stack the seals with first one-cupped side down to keep fluid in and second one-cupped side out to keep water out????
How are the propshaft seals holding up with the powertech prop? I had mine go on my Yamaha 250 SHO and Yamaha asked what prop I was using... I lied and said Yamaha T2.. but I am using Merc Bravo 1 XS. Can not understand how a prop can burn up propshaft seals?? Thanks!
Here you go. I am putting it in description as well. Other link got removed I guess. Thanks for watching lionparts.com/products/wsm-980-120l-lower-unit-adaptor
I check the fluid evert 4 trips. My trips average 350 miles round trip. If there is any water contamination at all I replace seals and recheck under pressure
@@JackedUpFishing I have about 600 hours and I see them well, I have not seen a recommendation from Yamaha and no one knows how to tell me how often to change, I change my oil every 40 hours and it works very well, is there no recommendation from Yamaha? Thanks 😃
@ no it just makes a good seal against the metal. It’s almost like rubber cement. Real easy to get off. Learned about it from our local Yamaha service guy
When you had the water pump off you could have replaced the two seals below that metal plate, and then the other two seals on the shifter link. 4 other seals/orings .
You are right, but they were done shortly before this video within the year and when I found the leak and tested it according to specs it was perfect. So those seals were good
Doesn't the carrier just come right out if you remove the retaining ring? That's how it works on many Mercury's. Then you can remove the seals however you want without fear of damaging the prop shaft and tap the new ones in using a large socket.
This way is used by most Yamaha service techs in my area. I’m sure there are different ways including the way the service manual instructs, but this is way I do on real world environment. So far it’s been flawless
@@JackedUpFishing Well I'm just saying, if a guy doesn't want to risk scratching the prop-shaft, if the retention ring is not seized it is easier to take out the carrier assembly than it is to do the drywall screw thing. And no chance of scratching the prop-shaft, which would require completely rebuilding the lower assembly to fix. I think Mercury must have thought this was regular maintenance back in the day, because my retention ring even has an arrow pointing which way to turn it to get it out. (Counter-clockwise, as one might expect.)
@@JackedUpFishing Well I have a Mercury, I don't know Yamaha. But I had intended to use the drywall screw method after watching this video, but was fearful of scratching the prop-shaft. Then I noticed the arrow and "Remove" stamped on the retainer ring and thought I would give that a try with a hammer and a large screw driver first. There is a safety tab that has to be bent out of the way but other than that it came right out. I ended up nicking the retention ring with the screwdriver, but not badly and it will cause no issues. If one were to get the custom tool, I imagine it's an easy job, certainly easier that rebuilding the whole lower to fix a scratched prop-shaft. But if it was really corroded I don't know how it would go. My boat is fresh water and hardly ever stays in the water when not in use, it lives on its trailer.
broo it happened to me that I changed the oil in my lower unit and I accidentally put a little pressure while having the top screw on and oil leaked through the shaft seal but then I filled it to its level and cleaned the oil and so far it hasn't leaked not a drop, my question; Will I have problems running it?
Dude, when installing the seals, they should be back to back, not both facing up (the rubber side with the little spring). The seals should be metal to metal. This way the first or bottom seal is sealing the oil on the inside and the second seal is keeping the water out of the oil. This may be your issue all along.
I just went and looked at the Yamaha service manual. And that is the way they stated to install the seals. Appreciate you looking out though for sure. I’m always open to suggestions. Tight lines!. Btw I never had water intrusion after I did this video, so it worked awesome
I have had some people say that. I will actually check it out when I pull again. I think it's an optical illusion though. I just checked the fluid the other day and have put over 1000 miles on her. It was super clean with no water in it. Thank God! Appreciate the comment
ok??? I do not know what you are referring to but yes I do use 5/16 sockets which is very close to 8mm. I never use a 15/16 on anything in the outboard area
I use Brave browser, never Chrome. Now and then I get the TH-cam warning but I just reload the page and it goes away. I watched this vid with NO ads. ;)
Bro, this is the most realistic boating and fishing channel in existence.
Thanks man! Tryin to keep it real!
This is an excellant video. I can tackle this project now.
Awesome! Glad you liked it!
Thanks Bill! Nice video and tips! Tight lines!
Thanks 🙏
Very well done, clear and concise. Subscribed.
Thanks and welcome to the channel! Tight lines!
Where did you get this foot support....wonderful video :-)
It’s in the video description.thanks for watching
@@JackedUpFishing I'm sorry but I can't find it
@@artphotostefanoestefania1927 here u go. lionparts.com/products/wsm-980-120l-lower-unit-adaptor
@@JackedUpFishing thanks you so much
@@artphotostefanoestefania1927 no problem
Great tutorial video
🙏 thank you
Good video and some great tips
🙏 thanks buddy
The prop seal shaft. Did you grease that before sliding the seals on? Should they ride on a dry shaft or a lubed shaft? Great video and thanks for sharing.
Yes I greased the entire shaft with a thin film before install.
@@JackedUpFishing beauty.
Great Video!
🙏 thank you!
Cool trick, thanks for sharing! Did you do anything to get all the water out of the lower unit before re-sealing the prop shaft?
No I pretty much got it all out when it drained and whatever trace amounts will evaporate pretty quickly. But to be sure I check my fluid every other trip since I run 100 mile plus one way most trips.
@@JackedUpFishing Got ya, thank you!
@@igotakai5644 no problem
I did not see the link for the pressure testing tool. Can you please post it? Thank you. Great video.
Here is the link to the pressure testing tool that I have! Thanks for watching!
www.offshoremarineparts.com/934-09-101.html?gad_source=1
great video brother
Thanks 🙏
Sorry I don't see the link to the bench mounted lower unit support that you are showing. Can you share it?
Sorry just seen this. Here is the link
alpinepower.com/marine-services/
Good video, do you know if the alpha one MerCruiser would be the same for the prop shaft?
Not sure
Thank you
Good job❤❤
Thanks for watching!
Same process for an f70?
Not sure honestly.
great video and i learned a lot. you never actually posted a link to that pressure tester.
I thought I did. If not I will put in description for you .
My dear friend, the exhaust muffler of the 30 hp evinrude eteceh engine was shattered in the middle. Will it cause any harm? Will the engine start
😂😂😂
Do you have to disconnect whole lower unit to just change prop seals? Great video!
No but I was prepared to do all of the seals. Plus nicer to work inside vs out in the 100 degree heat.
Got a question- when stacking the seals- aren’t you supposed to stack the seals with first one-cupped side down to keep fluid in and second one-cupped side out to keep water out????
I thought so too but it states in service manual to put them the same direction.
Awesome video
🙏 thank you
Great vid! Do you grease the shaft before putting the seals in?
Yes sir
I’m assuming you do drain oil 1st before pressure test ?
Yes
How are the propshaft seals holding up with the powertech prop? I had mine go on my Yamaha 250 SHO and Yamaha asked what prop I was using... I lied and said Yamaha T2.. but I am using Merc Bravo 1 XS. Can not understand how a prop can burn up propshaft seals?? Thanks!
They are holding up good so far
Where you get the stand thxs
Here you go. I am putting it in description as well. Other link got removed I guess. Thanks for watching
lionparts.com/products/wsm-980-120l-lower-unit-adaptor
Every how many hours are the seals changed? Thanks
I check the fluid evert 4 trips. My trips average 350 miles round trip. If there is any water contamination at all I replace seals and recheck under pressure
@@JackedUpFishing I have about 600 hours and I see them well, I have not seen a recommendation from Yamaha and no one knows how to tell me how often to change, I change my oil every 40 hours and it works very well, is there no recommendation from Yamaha? Thanks 😃
Great viedo. The prop shaft has a serious runout though.
Runout?
@@JackedUpFishing Yes. Check at 07:10+ minutes in the video when you rotate the shaft. It does not seem straight.
tried the screw method, it cracked the housing around the seals. Yay!
What kind of screws did you use? How deep did you drill them in? Crazy never in 20 years have I had anything happen like that
@@JackedUpFishing How much clearance from the back seal to the bearing?
Good tips, thanks! Have some fishing rods!... :-)
Thanks for watching! And yeah I might have a problem buying fishing rods. lol
Just bought that pressure tester in your link. Hope that was an affiliate link so you get a kick back from it
It wasn’t. No big deal great product.
What was the name of the clue you put around the seals ?
It’s called bellows glue made by Mercury. Awesome stuff
@@JackedUpFishing Great video. Does using the bellows glue make it harder to get the seals out next time? Thanks!
@ no it just makes a good seal against the metal. It’s almost like rubber cement. Real easy to get off. Learned about it from our local Yamaha service guy
Dont you need to torque the lower fill plug more? Its a crush washer
I just tightened it by hand. I’m sure there is probably a torque spec.
When you had the water pump off you could have replaced the two seals below that metal plate, and then the other two seals on the shifter link. 4 other seals/orings .
You are right, but they were done shortly before this video within the year and when I found the leak and tested it according to specs it was perfect. So those seals were good
Doesn't the carrier just come right out if you remove the retaining ring? That's how it works on many Mercury's. Then you can remove the seals however you want without fear of damaging the prop shaft and tap the new ones in using a large socket.
This way is used by most Yamaha service techs in my area. I’m sure there are different ways including the way the service manual instructs, but this is way I do on real world environment. So far it’s been flawless
@@JackedUpFishing Well I'm just saying, if a guy doesn't want to risk scratching the prop-shaft, if the retention ring is not seized it is easier to take out the carrier assembly than it is to do the drywall screw thing. And no chance of scratching the prop-shaft, which would require completely rebuilding the lower assembly to fix.
I think Mercury must have thought this was regular maintenance back in the day, because my retention ring even has an arrow pointing which way to turn it to get it out. (Counter-clockwise, as one might expect.)
@@Nonplused yeah Merc is a lot better as far as corrosion. Yamaha carriers are a PITA. lol
@@JackedUpFishing Well I have a Mercury, I don't know Yamaha. But I had intended to use the drywall screw method after watching this video, but was fearful of scratching the prop-shaft. Then I noticed the arrow and "Remove" stamped on the retainer ring and thought I would give that a try with a hammer and a large screw driver first. There is a safety tab that has to be bent out of the way but other than that it came right out. I ended up nicking the retention ring with the screwdriver, but not badly and it will cause no issues. If one were to get the custom tool, I imagine it's an easy job, certainly easier that rebuilding the whole lower to fix a scratched prop-shaft.
But if it was really corroded I don't know how it would go. My boat is fresh water and hardly ever stays in the water when not in use, it lives on its trailer.
broo it happened to me that I changed the oil in my lower unit and I accidentally put a little pressure while having the top screw on and oil leaked through the shaft seal but then I filled it to its level and cleaned the oil and so far it hasn't leaked not a drop, my question; Will I have problems running it?
Keep checking it. If it has any water in it you need to replace the seals.
@@JackedUpFishing Do you think the prop shaft seals are the most frequently damaged?
@@nossrc5638 yup 💯
Dude, when installing the seals, they should be back to back, not both facing up (the rubber side with the little spring). The seals should be metal to metal. This way the first or bottom seal is sealing the oil on the inside and the second seal is keeping the water out of the oil. This may be your issue all along.
I just went and looked at the Yamaha service manual. And that is the way they stated to install the seals. Appreciate you looking out though for sure. I’m always open to suggestions. Tight lines!. Btw I never had water intrusion after I did this video, so it worked awesome
One thing you didn't show us which way the seals or supposed to turn😮
You can clearly see it in the video I just checked.
Man said it started squirting out of the rear seal. I do the same everytime I eat from taco bell😅💀.
lol
What size PVC tailpipe is that?
I think it’s 1.5 in
almost looks like a slight wobble in your shaft around 7.12 ish
I see what you are saying. I’ll have to check that out on next service. Good eye! Thanks 🙏
I always thought the seals went in with solid side to outside but you put them in opposite..Guess thats why I'm not a mechanic huh
Yeah I thought they went facing each other till I looked it up
Shaft seems to be bent or at leat not true, that'll cause seal failure.
I have had some people say that. I will actually check it out when I pull again. I think it's an optical illusion though. I just checked the fluid the other day and have put over 1000 miles on her. It was super clean with no water in it. Thank God! Appreciate the comment
@@JackedUpFishing excessive vibration would happen if it was bent, though so maybe it is just an illusion from the camera lens.
15/16 socket, not 5/16
ok??? I do not know what you are referring to but yes I do use 5/16 sockets which is very close to 8mm. I never use a 15/16 on anything in the outboard area
More ads than content
Yeah TH-cam ads them more than I do. Sucks trying to limit them sorry
I use Brave browser, never Chrome. Now and then I get the TH-cam warning but I just reload the page and it goes away. I watched this vid with NO ads. ;)