Brandon, could you supply the OEM Part # that you are using in this video? I have a 15 hp Evinrude like the one in your video. Thank you, sir. Great video!
Dude...I just gotta say man, I've watched a lot of diy vids in my day, and I relate the most to the way you did this one in the sense of the work you did on this 15 hp Johnson. The whole not remembering if you lubed the drive shaft, thoughts about the kit, why your doing stuff different, and especially the black rtv sealant around the pump housing base! I just did my first Out board motor pump kit (I have a lot of experience with small engines, automotive engines and general mechanic stuff, but never have worked on an outboard motor til now) and I gave in and used the same rtv sealant on my pump housing. Lmao. Loved this vid. Thanks man!
Excellent video, some great tips, which helped me install an impeller in a '73 Johnson 20hp, which pumped water like a champ after it was done. Mine came apart differently, with the drive shaft attached to the power head, and it was a real bugger to get the key to align, however carefully I "eyeballed" it. Then the shift rod missed the linkage, and I had to let the gearcase out a bit to get 'er in. But it eventually got done. Many lessons learned.
First your videos are amazing. Second can you list all the different lubricants you used and on which parts for the lower unit. Seemed like you used a bunch of different ones
With your help, I remade the seals of my johnson 9.9 HP 1987. Done myself the special tools and puller, a little difficulty to put the shifter rod to the winding because I wanted to put 2 neutral parts or put The two a foward, redo the nets with 1/4" 28. tank you sorry for the mistakes , I am from Quebec Thanks Brandon!
Brandon i have gained a lot of knowledge from your videos, thanks for that. I recently aquired a 1975 evinrude 15 hp. Starts and runs good. Took it out today and at higher rpm right after the boat plains out it jars and even went in neutral once. Could this be anything other than a worn clutch dog? Thank you
I eyeballed the water tube seals. The taller one seemed to have a slightly smaller opening. I didn't , but wanted to use it. On one of the 15hps, I worked over, the seal was distorted, and it was the short one. I was carefull reinstalling, but am worried about that seal. Thanks again for the well done pump replacement !
Hey Brandon I have the exact motor and I’m rebuilding the water pump,I noticed a small hole on the long tube it’s about 2 inches from the top and it’s about the size of the tip of a tooth pick,I did put a garden hose to the tube and water shoots out from the hole,just seeing if this is normal.
Yes, there is plenty of confusion about those water tube grommets, and the directions don't help clarify the uses either. The funnel shaped grommet is for the engines that use the open exhaust megaphone, like the one you are working on. The regular style grommet goes on the engines that used the sealed exhaust megaphone. You can not use the funnel shaped grommet on the sealed megaphone, or you will trap water in the exhaust housing that could run back into the powerhead. Using the funnel shaped grommet on the open megaphone units seals what would have been the water drain, keeping hot exhaust away from the impeller housing. The other grommet is for the four stroke engines. Any yes, no real need for the sealer on the outer case of the seal, not critical in this application, but the sealer should be used when replacing seals during a gearcase reseal/rebuild. And yes, installing the impeller into the housing first is a pain, and not necessary on these small engines...But, you want to do it as prescribed on the larger engines with the little oring that seals the impeller hsg, or you will dislodge the oring while lowering the hsg down onto the impeller. Gearcases should be pressure/vacuum tested anytime they are torn down and reassembled, best to do this before going through the trouble of reinstalling it on the exhaust housing, just in case. The last thing you want to see is a milky watery gearcase lube the next time an engine comes in for service after internal work has been done.
Thanks for the video! Very helpful! Does the seal that’s sits in the lower unit around the drive shaft which you put grease on need to be replaced as well? I think you called it a hub seal but I can’t be positive. Thanks for the help!
When you inserted the drive shaft at 4:40 I don’t see the nut on the shaft like my 1978 Johnson 15hp has ? It won’t allow for me to install the new impeller pump because the nut is in the way ? Does it go deeper down into that hole in the lower unit ??
Hi Brandon, thank you very much for your tutorial. I have a Johnson 15 hp '97. yesterday I start to open the water pump. once I took off the drive shaft I noticed that the oil on the bottom , the part that is inside the gear is black. On the manual says that if the oil is melted grey pr dark , is not a good sign and contact the assistense. Any Idea why this oil is so dark? I live in italy so not easy to find sealant product you use Aviation sealant and permatex2. Any similar that I can buy in Europe?
Great video. Replaced my water pump then watched your video and now need to take it apart again to seal it and put the O ring on the drive shaft. Lol. I have a small hole on the opposite side of the upper drain plug. It leaks oil when I worked on WP. What is it for?
I have a 1974 15hp johnson and have been watching your videos to try to repair it. The lower unit shifts in and out of gear while separated from the motor and even once I connect the shift rod to the lower unit but as soon as I actually ma l merry the 2 units it will only go in nutural and forward. Any help is greatly appreciated
I just did the water pump kit and still no "pee". But when i run it on muffs water comes out of the mid section where the shift shaft goes into the lower. Is that just a matter of replacing that grommet or did i f something up.
Добрый день, в конце видео при выставлении рычага передач не совсем понятен размер в мм на штангельциркуле. Можете написать какой должен быть размер от горизонта до верха или до верха оси отверстия он должен быть?
Brandon's Garage... The little O-ring that comes in the housing bolt package, that you put on the end of the driveshaft in the video, what if that did not come out when I removed the lower unit? I don't see it in the upper half in the driveshaft tube. I have an 88 Evinride 15hp 2 stroke. Thanks
Brandon's Garage Okay good to know. Thanks for the quick reply! One other thing, the bolts came with loctite already on them. Is it necessary to put rtv in the lower unit holes. And if I do a vacuum or pressure leak test on the lower unit, what pressures or vacuum readings am I looking for? Thanks again!
Brandon's Garage Okay cool thanks man. I don't have any Gasket Compound or Gasket Sealer M so I'm hoping to get away with Permatex Ultra Black on the mating surfaces. What's Permatex Number 2?
NoSurrenderNever I have read and was confirmed online that you use 3M Nitrile High Performance Rubber and Gasket Adhesive (847) instead of the outdated OMC Adhesive M. My repair manual says the outside diameter of the water tube grommet gets coated with 3M 847. For added info, The book also says for 9.9 and 15hp ONLY to run a thin bead of 847 on the machines surface of the gearcase that mates with the impeller plate. The first thing that goes on. Good Video!!!
Brandon I have an old 15 h.p. Johnson. I bought it in the early 90s. I believe it is from the late 70s or early 80s. There are no model or year anywhere on this motor. Where a tag used to be it is not there anymore. I need to replace the water pump and the impeller. I have taken it apart and watched your video (Johnson 15 HP Rebuild part 11 Water Pump and Gearcase Install) and every part in the video looks identical to what I have taken off. Can you please supply me with the kit part number so I can finish the job. And by the way very good work. Thanks for the informationKeene Palmer
They don't do it because it is the only way to cut costs. If they don't but it in it cuts the cost 2 ways 1 no money spent on sealer and no cost on man hours to actually install it i know it seams miniscule but a order for 50,000 units will save a lot of money
Mate know its an old video but a couple question if you still monitor. By the way this has helped so much with an old 1990 I was give. When replaced water pump the gear shaft had some spring in it pushing up from gear box which I had to hold done while tightening the pump cover, you didn't seem to have this push back any ideas? Also I changes the sparks and its starts great I need to replace thermostats I think. But when it's running in the water pushing the tinny it sort of busts power the cuts back a little and burst again, would this be the Carby of fuel pump? I am as yet to service them but your video has given me all the info I need and made me NPT scared to do it as I was, really thought it would be much harder. And the top of hydride shaft didn't have that hollow in it for the O ring. It had an O ring but there was no groove to put it in so I left it high on the shaft and it slid down to its position when installing it. Is this a problem? Really hope you get this as its the best series Ive ever watch on an outboard rebuild. All the best Gus
Hi! thank you so much for this series. I think I have messed up my water pump install on my 1975 15hp Johnson. when testing it in a water bucket a lot of water escapes from the hole in where the shifter rod goes in. did I miss the watertube? or used the wrong grommet? I double-checked the watertube after it was pumping out of the shifter hole. please help me. //André
How did you notice it coming out of the shift rod grommet? ..or was your bucket not very deep? And was it a fair ammount? You could take the lower off, put a tube into the water pump, and stick the thing into a bucket and text it with a drill.
Brandon's Garage The bucket was fairly shallow and I think my motor is missing that shifter grommet. And yes it was quite a bit of water. Is there a way to see if there is any water pressure in the block? I will have to check this out this weekend.
@@Kalledussin 4 years late, but for anyone reading this: there is a rubber grommet that the shift rod goes through. It is often missing and without it water will freely run out of that hole where the shift rod enters the exhaust housing assembly. You can catch a glimpse of it on the video where Brandon test runs this motor. On my 82 it’s part number 319229.
I just watched all your videos. I have an 81 15hp Johnson. I replaced the drive gears and now that I have it back together it feels like it doesn't want to stay in forward gear. Reverse and neutral feel fine but the forward gear feels like it doesn't want fully lock in? I need help please
@@BrandonsGarage I measured the height of the shift rod with a caliper when it was pushed all the way down. Then I had to readjust the link on the shift handle to make it go all the way in forward but sometimes randomly it's like it catches on something and won't go into forward unless I mess with it a little. The original clutch dog had 2 prongs with chunks missing and the new one has 3 prongs. All gears were new and came as a package. Could they just need to get broke in?
I want to follow your video to change my impeller but I am having trouble dropping the lower unit. The problem is that the 5" extension housing will not slide down. Any suggestions for getting that thing off?
Brandon there is no set screw for the shifting rod on my 15 horsepower Evinrude it seems as though it's connected all the way to the top where do I find that set screw in my 2015 horsepower 4-stroke Evinrude
Hello, I've just watched your video and I am wondering about part number 0326885 of evinrude parts, which they call water restrictor. I have purchased a 1983 15 HP evinrude and I found that part inside the water pump housing. So I will replace water pump with a complete kit and I don't know wether I need to enclose this part or maybe I should install the pump witout It. Thanks in avance.
I have no clue what that is or does, and have never seen it mentioned. Looks like it was used from 1981-1987. Guess I'll have to go rip one apart and see what it is. However, it doesn't seem that important as the former, and latter, outboard didn't have them.
I took off my lower unit on my 1979 Johnson 15hp and whole changing the water pump impeller the drive shaft came out of the lower head. Now I cannot seem to install the shaft back without the “ nut “ on the shaft going any further down. It won’t allow for the new plate to sit flush on the head. Any ideas what happened ???? I would rest appreciate if you can help. Thanks
Brandon's Garage no the drive shaft . One that the impeller pump slides on . There is a nut there ? It should be there correct ? A single shaft without anything but the teeth at the bottom and top correct ? Can I show you I picture somehow ?? It would mean a lot. Thanks
Hey there. I figure it out that inputs a weep hole and my shift rod O ring is leaking. Is there a easer way to replace that o ring than to disassemble the entire unit.?
Just watched this video. I am doing the same. I can’t get the driveshaft to engage the lower unit. Everything I’m working on is in perfect condition. It feels like there’s a finger or dog out of place. Anyone know the trick? My upper driveshaft spline has no 0 ring groove. Thanks
hallo thanks for the tips but i have question about the parts. i live in the Netherlands and i need a water pump kit how do i know if the parts are fake or imitation? greetings Jasper Van Barneveld
Well, when if it comes in an Evinrude box you'll know. But the aftermarket stuff quality isn't bad, you just dont always get the newest update/design. Everything will come in packaging, if it doesnt something may be odd.
never mind i fixed it already but if you have to put the lower unit back i can never make it in forward because i can never make that turn for the srew the shift rod block where the screws go in on the lower unit is than very deep down and you have it in forward and the screws block in reverse how?
I just did a rebuild but now the outboard will not run with the cover on :-(. I am thinking that I do have an exhaust leak and was thinking it should be a seal at the bottom of the exhaust. I have a round exhaust like you do and not the square. Do you have any ideas to why the outboard only runs when the cover is off?
Brandon, could you supply the OEM Part # that you are using in this video? I have a 15 hp Evinrude like the one in your video. Thank you, sir. Great video!
everythingoutboards.com/brp/waterpump/394711.html
@@BrandonsGarage THANK YOU! I wasn't sure if you would answer seeing this vid was 6 yrs old! You are very kind with your knowledge & time.
Traductor al español
En Nicaragua puedo en comprar
Dude...I just gotta say man, I've watched a lot of diy vids in my day, and I relate the most to the way you did this one in the sense of the work you did on this 15 hp Johnson. The whole not remembering if you lubed the drive shaft, thoughts about the kit, why your doing stuff different, and especially the black rtv sealant around the pump housing base! I just did my first Out board motor pump kit (I have a lot of experience with small engines, automotive engines and general mechanic stuff, but never have worked on an outboard motor til now) and I gave in and used the same rtv sealant on my pump housing. Lmao. Loved this vid. Thanks man!
Excellent video, some great tips, which helped me install an impeller in a '73 Johnson 20hp, which pumped water like a champ after it was done. Mine came apart differently, with the drive shaft attached to the power head, and it was a real bugger to get the key to align, however carefully I "eyeballed" it. Then the shift rod missed the linkage, and I had to let the gearcase out a bit to get 'er in. But it eventually got done. Many lessons learned.
First your videos are amazing. Second can you list all the different lubricants you used and on which parts for the lower unit. Seemed like you used a bunch of different ones
Thank you so much! Especially for showing how to connect the shift linkage, I was going mad to reassemble mine.
With your help, I remade the seals of my johnson 9.9 HP 1987. Done myself the special tools and puller, a little difficulty to put the shifter rod to the winding because I wanted to put 2 neutral parts or put The two a foward, redo the nets with 1/4" 28. tank you sorry for the mistakes , I am from Quebec
Thanks Brandon!
Thanks, very informative.
Great video! I liked the presentation and refreshed my memory so I can put it all back together. HA HA
t
Thanks mate, you helped me a lot!Gretings from Hel ;-)
Brandon i have gained a lot of knowledge from your videos, thanks for that. I recently aquired a 1975 evinrude 15 hp. Starts and runs good. Took it out today and at higher rpm right after the boat plains out it jars and even went in neutral once. Could this be anything other than a worn clutch dog? Thank you
I eyeballed the water tube seals. The taller one seemed to have a slightly smaller opening. I didn't , but wanted to use it. On one of the 15hps, I worked over, the seal was distorted, and it was the short one. I was carefull reinstalling, but am worried about that seal. Thanks again for the well done pump replacement !
Hey Brandon I have the exact motor and I’m rebuilding the water pump,I noticed a small hole on the long tube it’s about 2 inches from the top and it’s about the size of the tip of a tooth pick,I did put a garden hose to the tube and water shoots out from the hole,just seeing if this is normal.
Yes, there is plenty of confusion about those water tube grommets, and the directions don't help clarify the uses either. The funnel shaped grommet is for the engines that use the open exhaust megaphone, like the one you are working on. The regular style grommet goes on the engines that used the sealed exhaust megaphone. You can not use the funnel shaped grommet on the sealed megaphone, or you will trap water in the exhaust housing that could run back into the powerhead. Using the funnel shaped grommet on the open megaphone units seals what would have been the water drain, keeping hot exhaust away from the impeller housing. The other grommet is for the four stroke engines. Any yes, no real need for the sealer on the outer case of the seal, not critical in this application, but the sealer should be used when replacing seals during a gearcase reseal/rebuild. And yes, installing the impeller into the housing first is a pain, and not necessary on these small engines...But, you want to do it as prescribed on the larger engines with the little oring that seals the impeller hsg, or you will dislodge the oring while lowering the hsg down onto the impeller. Gearcases should be pressure/vacuum tested anytime they are torn down and reassembled, best to do this before going through the trouble of reinstalling it on the exhaust housing, just in case. The last thing you want to see is a milky watery gearcase lube the next time an engine comes in for service after internal work has been done.
I have 1993 Johnson Outboards 9.9 long shaft (20") [ J10RETM ]. I am not sure what a megaphone is. Does mine uses the garmet 1 or 2?
Thanks for the video! Very helpful! Does the seal that’s sits in the lower unit around the drive shaft which you put grease on need to be replaced as well? I think you called it a hub seal but I can’t be positive. Thanks for the help!
When you inserted the drive shaft at 4:40 I don’t see the nut on the shaft like my 1978 Johnson 15hp has ? It won’t allow for me to install the new impeller pump because the nut is in the way ? Does it go deeper down into that hole in the lower unit ??
Brandon привет. А запчасть номер 0326885, до установки сальника в корпус помпы нужно ставить? на видео её у вас нет.
Hi, Do You not need to seal the whole case prior to installing back on engine housing? thax
Nope, just bolt the lower back on.
@@BrandonsGarage Thax..
Hi Brandon, thank you very much for your tutorial. I have a Johnson 15 hp '97. yesterday I start to open the water pump. once I took off the drive shaft I noticed that the oil on the bottom , the part that is inside the gear is black. On the manual says that if the oil is melted grey pr dark , is not a good sign and contact the assistense. Any Idea why this oil is so dark? I live in italy so not easy to find sealant product you use Aviation sealant and permatex2. Any similar that I can buy in Europe?
Great video. Replaced my water pump then watched your video and now need to take it apart again to seal it and put the O ring on the drive shaft. Lol. I have a small hole on the opposite side of the upper drain plug. It leaks oil when I worked on WP. What is it for?
Great video - what is the function of the philips screw next to the gear case drain plug.
It holds the shifter on the dog gear
I have a 1974 15hp johnson and have been watching your videos to try to repair it. The lower unit shifts in and out of gear while separated from the motor and even once I connect the shift rod to the lower unit but as soon as I actually ma l merry the 2 units it will only go in nutural and forward. Any help is greatly appreciated
I just did the water pump kit and still no "pee". But when i run it on muffs water comes out of the mid section where the shift shaft goes into the lower. Is that just a matter of replacing that grommet or did i f something up.
Добрый день, в конце видео при выставлении рычага передач не совсем понятен размер в мм на штангельциркуле. Можете написать какой должен быть размер от горизонта до верха или до верха оси отверстия он должен быть?
I need to replace the simmering 4:22 . can you give me any advice, how to do it? Thaks in advance.
Brandon's Garage... The little O-ring that comes in the housing bolt package, that you put on the end of the driveshaft in the video, what if that did not come out when I removed the lower unit? I don't see it in the upper half in the driveshaft tube.
I have an 88 Evinride 15hp 2 stroke. Thanks
Your engine doesn't use the driveshaft seal.
Your engine uses 2 seals on the crankcase head (P/N 0394327) It doesn't use/need the driveshaft O-ring.
Brandon's Garage Okay good to know. Thanks for the quick reply! One other thing, the bolts came with loctite already on them. Is it necessary to put rtv in the lower unit holes. And if I do a vacuum or pressure leak test on the lower unit, what pressures or vacuum readings am I looking for? Thanks again!
Not RTV,
You want anti-seize of some sort.
And no reading, just make sure it doesn't leek.
Brandon's Garage Okay cool thanks man. I don't have any Gasket Compound or Gasket Sealer M so I'm hoping to get away with Permatex Ultra Black on the mating surfaces. What's Permatex Number 2?
NoSurrenderNever I have read and was confirmed online that you use 3M Nitrile High Performance Rubber and Gasket Adhesive (847) instead of the outdated OMC Adhesive M. My repair manual says the outside diameter of the water tube grommet gets coated with 3M 847. For added info, The book also says for 9.9 and 15hp ONLY to run a thin bead of 847 on the machines surface of the gearcase that mates with the impeller plate. The first thing that goes on. Good Video!!!
wanted to see pressure test and how many psi
Brandon I have an old 15 h.p. Johnson. I bought it in the early 90s. I believe it is from the late 70s or early 80s. There are no model or year anywhere on this motor. Where a tag used to be it is not there anymore. I need to replace the water pump and the impeller. I have taken it apart and watched your video (Johnson 15 HP Rebuild part 11 Water Pump and Gearcase Install) and every part in the video looks identical to what I have taken off. Can you please supply me with the kit part number so I can finish the job. And by the way very good work. Thanks for the informationKeene Palmer
They don't do it because it is the only way to cut costs. If they don't but it in it cuts the cost 2 ways 1 no money spent on sealer and no cost on man hours to actually install it i know it seams miniscule but a order for 50,000 units will save a lot of money
Mate know its an old video but a couple question if you still monitor. By the way this has helped so much with an old 1990 I was give. When replaced water pump the gear shaft had some spring in it pushing up from gear box which I had to hold done while tightening the pump cover, you didn't seem to have this push back any ideas?
Also I changes the sparks and its starts great I need to replace thermostats I think. But when it's running in the water pushing the tinny it sort of busts power the cuts back a little and burst again, would this be the Carby of fuel pump? I am as yet to service them but your video has given me all the info I need and made me NPT scared to do it as I was, really thought it would be much harder.
And the top of hydride shaft didn't have that hollow in it for the O ring. It had an O ring but there was no groove to put it in so I left it high on the shaft and it slid down to its position when installing it. Is this a problem?
Really hope you get this as its the best series Ive ever watch on an outboard rebuild.
All the best Gus
Anywho. Thanks for the video, really informative 😁
Hi! thank you so much for this series. I think I have messed up my water pump install on my 1975 15hp Johnson. when testing it in a water bucket a lot of water escapes from the hole in where the shifter rod goes in. did I miss the watertube? or used the wrong grommet? I double-checked the watertube after it was pumping out of the shifter hole. please help me. //André
How did you notice it coming out of the shift rod grommet?
..or was your bucket not very deep?
And was it a fair ammount?
You could take the lower off, put a tube into the water pump, and stick the thing into a bucket and text it with a drill.
Brandon's Garage The bucket was fairly shallow and I think my motor is missing that shifter grommet. And yes it was quite a bit of water. Is there a way to see if there is any water pressure in the block? I will have to check this out this weekend.
No real way to test the water pressure, Only think I can think of is the water tube isnt connected, or you have a leaking drive shaft seal.
Brandon's Garage I'll send you an update in a couple of days, thank for the help :)
@@Kalledussin 4 years late, but for anyone reading this: there is a rubber grommet that the shift rod goes through. It is often missing and without it water will freely run out of that hole where the shift rod enters the exhaust housing assembly. You can catch a glimpse of it on the video where Brandon test runs this motor. On my 82 it’s part number 319229.
I just watched all your videos. I have an 81 15hp Johnson. I replaced the drive gears and now that I have it back together it feels like it doesn't want to stay in forward gear. Reverse and neutral feel fine but the forward gear feels like it doesn't want fully lock in? I need help please
Screw the shift rod in correctly?
Did the detent on the shift handle get out of adjustment?
@@BrandonsGarage I measured the height of the shift rod with a caliper when it was pushed all the way down. Then I had to readjust the link on the shift handle to make it go all the way in forward but sometimes randomly it's like it catches on something and won't go into forward unless I mess with it a little. The original clutch dog had 2 prongs with chunks missing and the new one has 3 prongs. All gears were new and came as a package. Could they just need to get broke in?
Dónde puedo conseguir esos repuestos
I want to follow your video to change my impeller but I am having trouble dropping the lower unit. The problem is that the 5" extension housing will not slide down. Any suggestions for getting that thing off?
Shift your gear to forward it will drop down for you to take the gear linkage bolt off. I have 9.9 johonson extended long shaft 20 inch.
th-cam.com/video/o-tiUh8LoFc/w-d-xo.html
How long do you wait before running a water test? Don't want to wash out the permatex aviation
Brandon there is no set screw for the shifting rod on my 15 horsepower Evinrude it seems as though it's connected all the way to the top where do I find that set screw in my 2015 horsepower 4-stroke Evinrude
Brandon it's a 2000 15 hp 4 stroke evinrude
Hello, I've just watched your video and I am wondering about part number 0326885 of evinrude parts, which they call water restrictor. I have purchased a 1983 15 HP evinrude and I found that part inside the water pump housing. So I will replace water pump with a complete kit and I don't know wether I need to enclose this part or maybe I should install the pump witout It. Thanks in avance.
I have no clue what that is or does, and have never seen it mentioned. Looks like it was used from 1981-1987. Guess I'll have to go rip one apart and see what it is.
However, it doesn't seem that important as the former, and latter, outboard didn't have them.
I took off my lower unit on my 1979 Johnson 15hp and whole changing the water pump impeller the drive shaft came out of the lower head. Now I cannot seem to install the shaft back without the “ nut “ on the shaft going any further down. It won’t allow for the new plate to sit flush on the head. Any ideas what happened ???? I would rest appreciate if you can help. Thanks
Nut on the shaft? You mean the shift rod shaft, or the drive shaft?
Brandon's Garage no the drive shaft . One that the impeller pump slides on . There is a nut there ? It should be there correct ? A single shaft without anything but the teeth at the bottom and top correct ? Can I show you I picture somehow ?? It would mean a lot. Thanks
hey would you know what size the bolt is for the the shift rod connector
hey how did you get the upper parts so clean
Do you mean on the exhaust housing? or the gearcase?
exhaust housing
Everything was taken apart, sand-blasted, painted, and reassembled.
On the long 9.9 long shaft will it have the same groove on top i am replacing one and theres no groove
Newer engines don't have the groove for the o-ring at the top of the driveshaft.
how do you remove the dipstick ring
Hey there. I figure it out that inputs a weep hole and my shift rod O ring is leaking. Is there a easer way to replace that o ring than to disassemble the entire unit.?
Wouldn't that be nice!
But nope, only way you're getting to it.
Just watched this video. I am doing the same. I can’t get the driveshaft to engage the lower unit. Everything I’m working on is in perfect condition. It feels like there’s a finger or dog out of place. Anyone know the trick? My upper driveshaft spline has no 0 ring groove.
Thanks
rotate the flywheel while inserting
What kind of oil did you use to lube the impeller housing?
I'm assuming any motor oil will do. Its just to lube the impeller for a cleaner, smooth install.
Silicone oil is often used with rubber impellers that move water.
hallo thanks for the tips but i have question about the parts. i live in the Netherlands and i need a water pump kit how do i know if the parts are fake or imitation?
greetings Jasper Van Barneveld
Well, when if it comes in an Evinrude box you'll know.
But the aftermarket stuff quality isn't bad, you just dont always get the newest update/design.
Everything will come in packaging, if it doesnt something may be odd.
if my prop spinnig at neutral wat happend?
Prop should spin in neutral
never mind i fixed it already but if you have to put the lower unit back i can never make it in forward because i can never make that turn for the srew the shift rod block where the screws go in on the lower unit is than very deep down and you have it in forward and the screws block in reverse how?
Ohh I forgot too goop the rubber grommet in place.
I just did a rebuild but now the outboard will not run with the cover on :-(. I am thinking that I do have an exhaust leak and was thinking it should be a seal at the bottom of the exhaust. I have a round exhaust like you do and not the square. Do you have any ideas to why the outboard only runs when the cover is off?