You didn't service the haldex pump motor.. you had the opportunity to remove the body from the motor and clear out the bushes dust...which causes friction in the motor...and extends the life of the pump itself.....I've done this exact same service and that one step would give you an additional 40 k of life on the pump.
I actually removed the housing bolts by accident and when i pulled on the pump the housing seemed to be stuck to the motor. The copper wire felt like they were stretching so i didnt pull any harder. Is it potentially gunked up?
Please my good sir, can you take a moment to explain the "temperature checking" thing? How does that affect anything, except that the fluid should not be freezing when you pour it it? And what's this "priming" thing of the Haldex pump that I've been hearing about?
Hey!! It's Mike "The Bro Bro with the Mo Mo" Hidalgo... Thanks Mike.. When I buy a Haldex vehicle, I'll remember this video.. For Now I'll watch it for the content/Company... 👌 As my B8.5 allroad is Quattro. Then again, Our garage also houses a Lexus GX, and a '20 STI. But have always liked the Alltrack, as it's kind of like my allroad with a Manual transmission lol
I read a competitors DIY and they said you have to "relearning " process (and they never said how) but you didn't do that. Is it necessary and I didn't see that option on my scan tool? Love FCP parts, service and DIY! Keep up the great work
In an allwheel drive vehicle would not it be better to drain the front casing as well? Would that take another litre? What about turning on the car to make sure there are not bubbles and effectively checking temperature? High temp is a sign of bubbles and that is why you still need to top the system up, right?
Don’t know if you can answer this but I think my pump is broken I I jacked up the car on all four corners and put it on Drive and the rear tires do spin a little bit they get going after a while but you can stop it really easy Do I need a new pump?
You may want to consider scanning the vehicle for any fault codes first. In addition, if the system has never been serviced, you will want to consider that as well. Checking the state of the fluid and screen can show you further insight on the condition of your pump.
He says NOT to torque it to the factory spec which is around 23 ft/lb or 30Nm, yet they display that value in the video?? Racing lines website guide says to torque the drain plug the same as the fill plug, which is 15Nm or around 11.1 ft/lb. Racing Line should also really include this info in or on the box if the torque spec is going to be different. They even state that torquing the bolt to factory spec can damage it, yet somehow we’re supposed to just know that.
Hi Aaron, we wanted to provide the specs for factory hardware as well since most people will not be using the Racing Line plug. Both specs are featured for both applications.
@@fcpeuro That would be completely understandable, but you can see how this might be misleading right? The dialogue in the video says “12mm 23 ft/lbs”. And I’m not sure where in the video you list the racing line drain plug torque as being 15 Nm?
You guys are the best when it comes to DIY of European cars. You explain and take us through the steps in a calm and friendly manner.
We appreciate that Sagar, and hope to do more of them!
I've seen a few good videos on this topic, but this is by far the best. Great detailed info, made my job very easy, thank you..!
Ricer Miata sent me!!!! THANKS for sponsoring all the sick ass bimmers they have!
Excellent video,thank you,clear and easy to follow
Glad it was helpful!
Great video Mike, small world i stumbled upon your video, we went to highschool together. Glad to see you are going well! - Eugene
You didn't service the haldex pump motor.. you had the opportunity to remove the body from the motor and clear out the bushes dust...which causes friction in the motor...and extends the life of the pump itself.....I've done this exact same service and that one step would give you an additional 40 k of life on the pump.
Thanks for the note, DJ!
I actually removed the housing bolts by accident and when i pulled on the pump the housing seemed to be stuck to the motor. The copper wire felt like they were stretching so i didnt pull any harder. Is it potentially gunked up?
where can we verify this gives 40 k of life on the pump?
Please my good sir, can you take a moment to explain the "temperature checking" thing? How does that affect anything, except that the fluid should not be freezing when you pour it it? And what's this "priming" thing of the Haldex pump that I've been hearing about?
"The click isn't very satisfying I'm sorry" 😂. Thanks for the detailed video
You’re welcome 😊
Glad I found out this channel 👍. Great service.
Hey!! It's Mike "The Bro Bro with the Mo Mo" Hidalgo... Thanks Mike.. When I buy a Haldex vehicle, I'll remember this video.. For Now I'll watch it for the content/Company... 👌
As my B8.5 allroad is Quattro. Then again, Our garage also houses a Lexus GX, and a '20 STI. But have always liked the Alltrack, as it's kind of like my allroad with a Manual transmission lol
Camera was poorly aimed through most of the video and I could not see what you were referring to when you made references to what you were doing.
I read a competitors DIY and they said you have to "relearning " process (and they never said how) but you didn't do that. Is it necessary and I didn't see that option on my scan tool? Love FCP parts, service and DIY! Keep up the great work
In an allwheel drive vehicle would not it be better to drain the front casing as well? Would that take another litre? What about turning on the car to make sure there are not bubbles and effectively checking temperature? High temp is a sign of bubbles and that is why you still need to top the system up, right?
996 Vids? Thanks :)
@FCP Euro won’t the magnetic plugs affect the haldex system? knowing the haldex system is a electro-mechanical device. Tnx
Is it necessary to reset the pump with vcds?
Im trying to change haldex oil and clean pump screen without any vcds.
Fantastic video! That mesh wasn’t too dirty! I’ve seen others full of gunk!
Don’t you have to reset the pump with VCDS?
No need to reset the system! Priming the system and re-checking fluid levels is all you would want to do.
@@fcpeuro sorry what’s priming mean?
Adding the oil I’m guessing?
Does your hair get dirty when you stand under the car?
Every thumbs-up is a reason to get Mike a taller lift!
You didn’t change the other, bigger haldex filter. Why?
They don't exist on the gen 5
Don’t know if you can answer this but I think my pump is broken I I jacked up the car on all four corners and put it on Drive and the rear tires do spin a little bit they get going after a while but you can stop it really easy Do I need a new pump?
You may want to consider scanning the vehicle for any fault codes first. In addition, if the system has never been serviced, you will want to consider that as well. Checking the state of the fluid and screen can show you further insight on the condition of your pump.
400ml d fluid????
👀
He says NOT to torque it to the factory spec which is around 23 ft/lb or 30Nm, yet they display that value in the video??
Racing lines website guide says to torque the drain plug the same as the fill plug, which is 15Nm or around 11.1 ft/lb. Racing Line should also really include this info in or on the box if the torque spec is going to be different. They even state that torquing the bolt to factory spec can damage it, yet somehow we’re supposed to just know that.
Hi Aaron, we wanted to provide the specs for factory hardware as well since most people will not be using the Racing Line plug. Both specs are featured for both applications.
@@fcpeuro That would be completely understandable, but you can see how this might be misleading right? The dialogue in the video says “12mm 23 ft/lbs”. And I’m not sure where in the video you list the racing line drain plug torque as being 15 Nm?
It's a drain plug. You can just tighten it by feel, and it will be fine. As long as the crush washers are crushed, then it's tight enough.
@@rjmari I disagree as the racing-line plug is aluminum and therefore a lot easier to damage the threads.
@@aredd92 Yea, and what do you think the crush washer is made of? Steel?
Thanks bro for sharing your passion and shedding some light on us.
Would it be much different on an Audi Q5 2.0T quattro MY12?
Thanks
completely different system
No it will be the same. Just change the oil as seen in this video. There is no need to take the pump off
$65 for two small bolts, and two o-rings?? Gotta be a cheaper alternative out there somewhere.
try dealer, sometimes they are not bad.
ebay $25