The most critical part of the brake replacement was not even shown in this video. The vehicle shown obviously hasn't been subjected to the harsh environments associated with the rust-belt that runs through the US and Canada. Most often, you need to pry or hammer the pads out of the caliper bracket and then brush or file off the pack rust. The caliper bracket needs to be cleaned, lubricated and loaded with pads before you install it on the car. This allows you to test for pad binding between the ears and the bracket channels. It's also easier to install the pads when the bracket is on the bench, or clamped in a bench vise. Then, you need to remove, inspect and clean the slider pins and apply new ceramic paste to the pins. Inspect the rubber boots for cracks. This was not even mentioned!!
I strongly recommend putting some brake component grease in the carrier channels were the pads slide also on the back of the pad that mates with the piston but not copper slip. Also some silicone grease on the pin sliders
@@dkosherov20 while not the intention of this video, those springs are often bent in on purpose in track/racing applications or removed altogether. No special tools needed, just a lil squeeze via your preferred pliers.
MIke - the psste under brake disc ought to be evenly distributed over hub. So You can go ahead and turn the disc couple of times before securing it. This is to avoid the micro wobbling of the disc later. Great job overall :)
I know it says 120nm torque on the bolts in the manual, but I just did a track day and all of the bolts came loose on a wheel. I can only assume this was due to the brake heat expanding the holes.I will be torqueing mine up a little more from now on. Thanks for the video
Great video, as usual. What would you recommend for an OEM equivalent set of front pads that don’t shed as much DUST as the OEM VW pads? Pad dust is my only complaint about my R.
It will not hurt anything; just be sure to lay some towels down in case your reservoir is too full (check and remove excess fluid first before doing this if it is).
@fcp euro I have a 2015 E-golf and I can’t find instructions to replace the brake pads for that vehicle anywhere. Is it the same process as any MK7 golf?
I have a Mk 7.5 GTI and I started on this side as well. My EBC red stuffs have the connector for the socket but on this side my GTI doesn’t have anywhere to connect to. What do I do. The brakes were a fit
I don't know anything about brakes. The brake light came on. 2018 Golf R. Is it likely for the front brakes only? Also, can you replace only the pads. and not rotors? Thank you for the videos.
It depends on the car. I had one model Honda that wore out 3 sets of rear brakes to one of the fronts. A friend had the exact model and his was the same. My T-roc is wearing the rears slightly more than the front so it just depends on the car, brake pad compound etc. Most cars wear the fronts quicker but in saying that, the new pads often have a thicker lining on the front, therefore they can all wear out at the same time. As far as the rotors go, you can get them machined if they will still be thick enough after machining. The minimum thickness is nearly always cast into the rotors on the inside but you can’t normally see where it’s cast until you remove them. The dealership should be able to tell you what the minimum thickness is for front and rear. You need a micrometer to be able to get past the unworn lip to measure them. To be honest, it’s not worth it. It would cost me $80 for both of my front rotors to get machined and yet it is only $190 for both brand new ones. Rears are even cheaper. If you opt to machine them, they might clean up in spec but soon after, they may wear to below minimum thickness. It’s not worth scrimping on.
@Fcp : do you guys recommend bleeding the brakes after doing this, or is pumping the brakes enough? I did my first ever replacement with the help of this video, and I just pumped up yhe brakes.. they feel firm to me, so i would think i dont need to bleed them anymore
Yes you can get them machined if they end up thicker than minimum required thickness ( this measurement is usually cast on the inside of the rotor) but really it’s not worth it. Machining can be more than half the cost of new rotors and if you’re doing the job yourself, it can be a pain to drop them off for machining and pick them up again. If you have the new rotors ready to go, you can just get the job done and not have the worry of them wearing below the minimum thickness soon after.
the best vid on yt on changing brakes on a vw on your own, clean and direct, thank you !
Absolutely brilliant from start to finish, so easy to follow 👍
The most critical part of the brake replacement was not even shown in this video. The vehicle shown obviously hasn't been subjected to the harsh environments associated with the rust-belt that runs through the US and Canada. Most often, you need to pry or hammer the pads out of the caliper bracket and then brush or file off the pack rust. The caliper bracket needs to be cleaned, lubricated and loaded with pads before you install it on the car. This allows you to test for pad binding between the ears and the bracket channels. It's also easier to install the pads when the bracket is on the bench, or clamped in a bench vise. Then, you need to remove, inspect and clean the slider pins and apply new ceramic paste to the pins. Inspect the rubber boots for cracks. This was not even mentioned!!
He knows his stuff . Brilliant
Well done! My kit is on the way. I was going to pay a shop to install it. After watching this, I think I can handle it. Thanks!
thank you! i did my front brakes on my 2019 gti today thanks to this vid and all the information!!!
Great video! Nice easy clear instructions
Thank you!
I strongly recommend putting some brake component grease in the carrier channels were the pads slide also on the back of the pad that mates with the piston but not copper slip. Also some silicone grease on the pin sliders
Thanks lot for well guided explain about all process of brake repair.
Excellent instructions. Appreciate the diy video!
Just happened on this. GREAT explanation/guide. 👍👏
Are you guys going to make a video for the rear brakes of a mk7/7.5?
Very well done, well detailed and easy to follow.
Reversely mounted break pad from the inside 😉
“improving “ the shape of pads springs with pliers doesn’t look very professional too.
@@dkosherov20 while not the intention of this video, those springs are often bent in on purpose in track/racing applications or removed altogether. No special tools needed, just a lil squeeze via your preferred pliers.
Well done, clean and easy.
Thank you! Cheers!
MIke - the psste under brake disc ought to be evenly distributed over hub. So You can go ahead and turn the disc couple of times before securing it. This is to avoid the micro wobbling of the disc later. Great job overall :)
Great video, thanks! Love FCP Euro
I know it says 120nm torque on the bolts in the manual, but I just did a track day and all of the bolts came loose on a wheel. I can only assume this was due to the brake heat expanding the holes.I will be torqueing mine up a little more from now on. Thanks for the video
Ótimo! Tenho um MK7 e estou colocando pastilhas de cerâmica da Bosch QuietCast!!
Great clear instructions thanks for taking the time to do this video
Best on TH-cam......
Very satisfying to watch, thank you 👌👍
822 newton meters are quite a lot for wheel bolts 😅😅👀
Very good
Those caliper brackets need a boat load of torque.. damn...
Great video, as usual. What would you recommend for an OEM equivalent set of front pads that don’t shed as much DUST as the OEM VW pads? Pad dust is my only complaint about my R.
excellent video. Thank you!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thank you!
You are a national treasure. This is awesome.
Tremendous!
Is opening the brake reservoir while you’re compressing the piston recommended?
It will not hurt anything; just be sure to lay some towels down in case your reservoir is too full (check and remove excess fluid first before doing this if it is).
@fcp euro I have a 2015 E-golf and I can’t find instructions to replace the brake pads for that vehicle anywhere. Is it the same process as any MK7 golf?
822 newton meters for the lug nuts???? Ha. That's 606 ft lbs. I think you have a little calculator error ;-)
He clearly said 122 N⋅m?
Very well done video. I’m used to lube the guide pin in my Honda. Why that wasn’t done here? Is it dry?
I have a Mk 7.5 GTI and I started on this side as well. My EBC red stuffs have the connector for the socket but on this side my GTI doesn’t have anywhere to connect to. What do I do. The brakes were a fit
I don't know anything about brakes. The brake light came on. 2018 Golf R. Is it likely for the front brakes only? Also, can you replace only the pads. and not rotors? Thank you for the videos.
It depends on the car. I had one model Honda that wore out 3 sets of rear brakes to one of the fronts. A friend had the exact model and his was the same. My T-roc is wearing the rears slightly more than the front so it just depends on the car, brake pad compound etc. Most cars wear the fronts quicker but in saying that, the new pads often have a thicker lining on the front, therefore they can all wear out at the same time. As far as the rotors go, you can get them machined if they will still be thick enough after machining. The minimum thickness is nearly always cast into the rotors on the inside but you can’t normally see where it’s cast until you remove them. The dealership should be able to tell you what the minimum thickness is for front and rear. You need a micrometer to be able to get past the unworn lip to measure them. To be honest, it’s not worth it. It would cost me $80 for both of my front rotors to get machined and yet it is only $190 for both brand new ones. Rears are even cheaper. If you opt to machine them, they might clean up in spec but soon after, they may wear to below minimum thickness. It’s not worth scrimping on.
@Fcp : do you guys recommend bleeding the brakes after doing this, or is pumping the brakes enough?
I did my first ever replacement with the help of this video, and I just pumped up yhe brakes.. they feel firm to me, so i would think i dont need to bleed them anymore
Great video. We have 2017 golf s. Same tools needed?
Where can but that exact drive ratchet that takes off the 21mm bolts
Mike, are the vw golf Mark 8 brakes any different?
Same process for a mk7 and mk7.5?
Remove and grease the guide pins too!
They don't have to be greased because that rubber is self lubricating. But checking and cleaning the bolts is a good idea
Are the original rotors not able to be repaired when they have such a lip?
Not if they have a lip.
Yes you can get them machined if they end up thicker than minimum required thickness ( this measurement is usually cast on the inside of the rotor) but really it’s not worth it. Machining can be more than half the cost of new rotors and if you’re doing the job yourself, it can be a pain to drop them off for machining and pick them up again. If you have the new rotors ready to go, you can just get the job done and not have the worry of them wearing below the minimum thickness soon after.
STOP the music....
good vid, awful music... we want a DIY vid. not a music video