FREE Filament for 3D Printers made from Recycled PET Plastic Bottles!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 25 ส.ค. 2023
- Making FREE filament from recycled PET Plastic Bottles! In this video, I discuss using various bottle cutters to make the ribbon we'll process through the Pultruder. It's important that the ribbon's width is set correctly based on the thickness of the plastic from the bottle.
Recommended width based on the thickness of the plastic. You will need to do test runs in order to evaluate how well it processes through the Pultruder and if the filament is solid with no gaps.
Thickness Width
.20mm 10mm
.25mm 9mm
.30mm 8mm
.35mm 7mm
.40mm 6mm
.45mm 5mm - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
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Those details u r giving are of great value! Keep up!
Thanks! Just passing along a few things I’ve learned about this process. And yes. I’ll be doing a few more videos in this series (as time allows). First part of September I’ll be out of town, so there may be a short break in between these upcoming videos.
Kevin, what would you do for 0,6 wide mm pet ribbon?
@@promitheasd I’m not sure I understand your question. Are you saying that the plastic you’re working with is .6mm thick? If so, then your ribbon is going to have to be fairly narrow when you cut it into a ribbon. I’m not sure exactly how narrow since I’ve never worked with source material that thick.
@@promitheasd I did a couple of quick calculations and came up with 4mm wide for plastic that is .6mm thick. At least I would start there. You will have to experiment and test to see at what width the Pultruder makes a solid filament that can still be pulled thru the machine. You may have to be slightly wider or perhaps slightly narrower than that.
ok, i will work on that and see. I tried 7 mm wide ribbon but it was impossible to make it solid.@@KevinGroninga3D
I am slowly working on making a setup for this (ordering parts little by little) want to make it in three stages, stage one cutting, stage two auto dying it, and then stage three making the filament, its interesting figuring out how to get X, Y, and Z part setups to work together for this stuff
We have a lot of choices these days as far as cutting, coloring, and building Pultruder. Mine is a RAMPS v1.4 board, stepper motor and such. But most these days are the more simplified electronic controls for motor speed and hot-end temp control. Way more simplified.
Nice!, one question do you dry your PET filament ?
No, I don’t dry the filament before I use it. Given the correct temps, fan rates and print speeds, it prints just fine.
That width table that gets passed around is wrong. The numbers in it are linear but the relationship is inverse (should be hyperbola like 1/x).
Yeah, it’s mostly just to get a rough estimate. Most of my bottles are just slightly thicker than 0.30, which I’m the table is 8mm. But if I do 8mm. It really struggles. So I’m more like 7.6 or 7.5mm, which still pulls tight, but the stepper motor doesn’t slip and the resulting filament goes all the way around the circumference and the hole in the center is pretty minimal. Measures right at 1.75mm and the printers have no issue feeding it.
@@KevinGroninga3D It's the thicknesses significantly below 0.3 where the table is really bad.
@@daliasprints9798 the only ones I’ve seen with plastic that thin are the single use water bottles. I don’t even bother messing with them. Too textured, too thin and way too small to be worth the effort.
@@KevinGroninga3D Yeah I would not bother with sub-0.2 unless the bottle were gigantic. But nobody would make that because dropping it when filled with liquid would crack it.
How do you manage the crystallization of the PET filament? what's the printing temp for this?
Crystallization happens if the PET gets too hot or you print too slow. On my CR10 with Sprite Pro direct drive, I’m printing at 270-275c and running 25-30mm/s.
@@KevinGroninga3D I noticed that, I'm printing at 266c and the first layer was at 15mm/s and caused cracking noises (similar to popping candy) and the print looked like was underextruded, while the rest of the print was perfect! I have to experiment to find out the minimum speed and set it on my orca slicer. I didn't expected printing at a lower speed could cause problems. Thanks for the reply!
@@L3X369 it’s a balance of speed versus temp. If you go too slow and temp is too high, the PET will crystallize and turn that white translucent color. If you see that, turn down the temp or speed up. As you go faster, you can turn up the temp. You could probably run as hot as 280-290c so long as you increase the speed to keep the plastic from getting too hot and turning color or worse yet, burning.
What extruder temperature you are using
I’ll actually be touching on that and other related subjects in later videos. Printer modifications and capabilities as well as slicer settings, temps, fan speeds, flow rates, retraction, and print speed.
Ok and thanks for ribbon width table.
@@erikasbudrys6066 , those are just recommended width settings, and you may have to adjust (slightly wider or narrower) depending on your plastic and how well it goes through the Pultruder.
when new video?
I’m going to try to get another done this week. I’ve been out of town and down in Tombstone AZ for the last week. Sorry for the delay!
@@KevinGroninga3D no worries. I was just curious when will new video be out.
Thanks, looking forward for video
@@ak1ca763 My next video will be about the basic functionality of Pultruders. I won’t be showing how to make one, because there are just so many different ways to build one. But I will be going over the take-up gearing system and more importantly, making the heat-block and nozzle.
You got a contact?
What do you mean?
@@KevinGroninga3D just curious if you have anything in can reach out to you on. I love what you are doing and was wondering if we could communicate on some things
@@jayzazuare you on Telegram? My ID there is @KevinGroninga