Filament from bottle for 3d printing
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ก.พ. 2022
- Making your own filament for 3D printing has never been easier 😁
Just wanna say Hi and THANK YOU FOR YOUR SUPPORT WITH LIKES! ❤️
Thanks to @mr3dp for the original idea of using w1209 !!!
Before you print it: bit.ly/snl2
TUTORIAL: petamentor.com/
STL: petamentor.com/stl-files/
PARTS: petamentor.com/parts
Our Forum: petamentor.com/forums/forum/d...
official FB group: / 594548605536945
DIY PET filament from Bottles with DIY Petamentor machine 💪
SUBSCRIBE to all available tutorials and parts! 😈
The production of filament from a pet bottle works on a simple principle. The first step is to cut the tape from the bottle on a simple cutter. The second step is to heat the tape using a heated nozzle with a set temperature of around 210 degrees Celsius. The third step is to guide the first centimeters of the filament onto the winding spool. The process takes about 45 minutes and it is possible to produce about 8 meters of filament from one bottle. The printing temperature is about 250 - 260 degrees Celsius. The filament diameter can be compensated by setting the flowrate in your slicer. - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
Awesome! This is the most simplified PET Filament maker I have ever come across with. I will jump to stay making mine from this part list and thank you for sharing with us your knowledge. Keep on going :)
Thank you. You made my day 😉
@@OndrejSraitr Just the same on my side, i was strugeling to get a de parts for all the other PETmashines, but this one is just perfectly simple!
Got all the items in my Aliexpress cart, waiting for my salary ;)
You’re incredibly generous!!!! Am so excited to build this simply because you’ve given us so much support and knowledge
Tjank you !
This is the best one I've come across, hands down. Especially for the price. Your tutorial videos are great, too.
Thank you Michael. Im trying to make some website with comunity forum. It will take some time, but I think that it will be valuable with sharing your problems, solutions and experience 👍
WOW! Add some PLA bucket with heating, melt it, flatten it, use this machine to make PLA spool again from already used filament, or some prints we dont want anymore. This is beautiful
Thank you so much 😁
Wow, absolutely superb creation and video with the comprehensive list of parts needed etc. The fact you take time to respond to questions is a credit to you. Too many PET machine maker videos just ramble on for hours about nothing and give no real info (always Americans im afraid), this was a joy and revelation, superbly well done. 😊😊😊😊😊
Hi, thank you so much 🥳🥰. If you will need some support, you can join out PETamentor Facebook group 🙂👍
Dude - This might be the best 3d Print Video I have ever seen on so many levels. This is "Great!" Thanks for taking your time to share! :)
Thank you man 😉😉
Greetings from Brazil!!! Congratulations on the project with simple electronics and a beautiful design, I'm very excited to build one of these extruders for myself, big hug!!
Yey. Thank you so much. ✌️
I'm glad you included a demonstration of the filament printing. It would be nice to see some of the diameter tolerance measurements. Great work, thanks for sharing!
Thank you ❤️
simple and clean looks awesome .. waiting for tutorial :D
Thank you, that was exactly my goals 😉
Really nice setup, actually, the best one I've seen and on top of that, you linked everything you used. Wow, I applaud you sir, liked and subscribed
Thank you, its really nice to read this 😉
This is amazing man. Props!
Simple et efficace. C'est intelligent. Bravo !
HI! I saw your FB post and came to your channel, I have seen some of these machines before but nothing as good as this one, making a PET filament extruder is in my project list and I will definetly be making it this model.
+1 happy new subscriber!
Thank you Andrew! 😁✌️
Looking so nice, I start to explore a few days ago about this how to make filament from PET bottle and find your videos, I think is best machine what I find it. Thank you for your time and showing us how to build.
Oh, thats so nice, So many thanks 👍😉
Beautiful design. Congratulations.
😌 Thank you 💪
Thank you for your patience in answering and guiding me. be happy and healthy wherever you are, bro.
O thank you man! Thank you So much ❤️
how creative. good work, this is really cool. i worked in extrusions for a long time and this made my day.
Wow, thank You 😜🥰
Awesome .You are a genius
This is amazing! The final print do have some imperfections, but the fact that it's made from a plastic bottle makes it really cool.
Congrats! I really know that feeling of victory. You need to find a good flowrate and some settings. It can be good very soon.
Can you melt the ends of two PET bottle strands and continue creating filament, or is it limited to extruding a single bottle at a time?
you can as u described ❤
i made a 1kg PET with this method 😊
I like that stuff, nice work! Keep on going =)
thank you very much 😉
Wow. I had no idea that it was possible to make 3d printer filament from bottles 😳Great endeavour!
Its not my idea. I only modifyed what i find over the internet and put it together.
@@OndrejSraitr well, it’s still great that you’re doing it and you built something great!
Thank you 👍😉
This project is very good!
Yes sir! 😁 Thank you so much ❤️😉
Tolles Projekt!
Thank you so much ❤️👍
You did a very good job on recycle. I have to give you a thumb up.😀
Thank you 😉👍
Awesome Job!!!
🤪 Thank you !
Muy sencillo, un gran trabajo gracias
Thank you 👍
This looks amazing and given all the bottles laying around, either from our own use or what we end up finding on the streets this is a great tool. Sadly some of the parts don't look to be shown anymore on amazin or other links. Got any alt part links? Also would there be any way to make this even more compact? I'm not much of a designer on this aspect so wouldn't even know where to start on ideas like that.
nice job man, greetings from Brazil, you have 1 subscripton here, i'll try to make one of these for myself, thanks!!
Thanks 😁, hope it will easy build for you. Good luck from Czech Republic ✌️
Pekne spracovanie v jednoduchosti je krása. Drzim palce v dalsej tvorbe.
Velice dekuji.
amazing!
Thank you man❤️
Just found out this project and its amazing! I tried to go for the tutorial but the website seems to be down tho... Hope we got able to look it up soon, i'm really into recycling.
Супер то, что надо. Давно искал такой макет. Спасибо
Hi Ondrej,
I'm very new in 3D printing technology, and rapidly I was interested in making my own filament.
I did not want to destroy a 3D printer to make this, so I was thinking about another system able to work without all the electronics from 3D printer. I was preparing a list of the equipments I needed, and then I discovered your TH-cam channel. What a surprise .... you did it before me !🤨
Lucky man, but I'm happy with that, because I see that I was thinking right ! 👍
I selected in my list a temperature controller on which you have posted recently a few words on your website. I cannot find the information again on it. What about this evolution of the Petamentor ? Happy to read about this, because it was my first orientation.
Orders of the equipments are on the way.
Congratulations for your good work. Regards
Hi 😁, Thank you!
Yesterday I recieved the new part (thermocontroller)- wuhuuu! 😁, but it takes me some time again. Im very Poor with time 😆, but its comming 👌💪😄
that's so slick bro..
I like the original idea, but all petpulls and other versions looks a bit "frankenstein styled". so, thats why... my goal was to build something in my pc keyboard dimensions.
Thanks for this great idea and video! Is there a mechanism here for the feed to go back and forth along the spool, as it winds? Thanks again!
Hey! I've just finished making my Petamentor and I'm still experimenting with it, but loving it so far! My only question is about the small part attached to a string you used to attach the filament to the reel. What is this part / where can I find one / how can I make one?
it's great!! I did not find anything similar on the internet, good job i love it
I would love to know how is the assembly of the machine. Thanks for your help
thank you so much. I love idea, its not mine. I saw si many videos across the net, but everything was difficult to build like timemachine. Hope, that can bring you something nice, simple to build and cheap. So hope this is it. Im working on tutorials, please be patient and stay tuned.
I love this design. I'd like to have a go at making one with a width sensor that displays the current diameter on that center screen. Ideally this could be used to automatically adjust rotation speed.
Hi, thank you. My idea was make it simple as its possible. I Just printed so many things from bottles with good results (havent much time for scientific tasks 😁👍)
@@OndrejSraitr I'm impressed you're getting such good results. Do you have any idea how consistent your filament diameter is when it's working properly?
No, I have only iron calipers and Im not able to measure it along the way. But I tryed change speed/temp during the filament making and its not making any visible changes in diametterr (only in surface (bubbles, defects, not joined sides)). It seem that the most important thing is noozle drill. I saw some guy making a fully working pet filament with hot gluestick gun 😁. I think its not real piece of a science 😁👍
cool. 🤓 love the date when this was published 😁 it was very twos day 🙃
yes, but for some people this date will be a remind of starting UA conflict 🙁
@@OndrejSraitr sadly, yes.
Путiн хуйло.
Слава Україні! 💙💛
Героям слава!
Thanks you for sharing, Man. Currently under preparations of making same machine. I have a question of your tools though - can you share with the micro drill (type-c, I believe) & also tip cone on the rotating plastic knife you are using ...thank you again!!!
Brother i want to purchase this machine
Hi I am curious how do you hook the filament from the first bottle to the next bottle cutting?
This is the best design I ever came across.
Thank you so much…
What about an MK2, did you seen it? 😁
@@OndrejSraitr I just got to see this one in your website. Even better! Thank you so much for sharing it.
Youre welcome 🤟😉
@@OndrejSraitr The integrated cutter and simplified thermal controller. Just amazing.
Thank you. A few minutes I break the spool wheel again. Was tryed a 14mm strip, wich is nonsense 😁. Need to find the right path of the ninja too 😁. But its easier than the first one, I agree
I finished building the machine as you presented but the quality of the filament not good, please advice what is the best temp. and what i can do to make the filament with good quality so the printer work
Great video!! A friend and I want to build a polyformer too. This video helped a lot! But how did you managed the motherboard? I don´t really know, how to do that and where I can buy the right one..
Hello friend, first of all I wanted to congratulate you for this excellent video and all the others. I wanted to ask you the source you use, how many volts it is and how many amps, since several options appear in the aliexpress link. I thank you very much and congratulations again I know that your channel will grow a lot.
Hi, thank you for your comment and time. The power supply is 12V 36W (3A). Hope it will helps you😉
Hi, this is very very cool, and much simpler than Petbot!
Did you seen MK2? 😉🤪
how do you weld those bottles ? so you dont get for example 10 - 20 m from one bottle ?
How does this relay hold up ? I bet it turns on and off regularly? Maybe a mosfet would be better ?
It actually work by using w1209 temperature controller i try but its not working can you help me
What are you using at the beginning of the video to cut the bottle into strands
have you tried using Arduino boards by any chance. I got a Mega Arduino 2560, with the LCD screen and the RAMPS 1.4 controller.
this is awesome. thank you for the video. I wonder if I can shrink 3mm PLA to 1.7mm this way. I have boxes of boxes of 3mm, but the printer stopped working, and my new printer use 1.7mm. Didn't want to change hot end and current direct drive for I can even find 3mm filaments these days...
Hi, thank you☺️.
Maybe with custom extruder yes. But I personally have no idea, how to achive your needs this way 😔
Hi I built your Project and now I just started my first test print, I tried to print up to 250°C but the filament just doesn't melt enough to be "liquid".
I made the strings out of normal PET-Bottles and created the filament with a diameter of arround 1.6mm.
Do you have any Idea why it doesn't melt properly, even at 250°C?
My pwm controller voltage is between 12 and 40. Will I have a problem?
I couldn't find an dc motor with 7RPM . Do you suggest another dc motor? Thanks
This Is really fantastic Bro! Good job !
How much time does the machine need to recycle a single bottle ?
Hi, Thank you 😁
About 40-45 minutes. This is the same for every machine you will build. Its a material limitation 😉
Thanks for your videos! Beautifull machine!
I also make my filament. But I have thin filaments appearing (strearing) while your prints are super clean... Could you post the printing profile you are using.
Great job, thanks for sharing!
Hi, Thank you so much. Im using default cura (creality slicer 4.8.2 ) 0.2PLA profile with this changes: printing temp 260 (max on ender6), flowrate:145%, printing speed:40mm/s.
How much time it gets to heat the nozzle
why your nozzle is so big? what is the outer diameter of the nozzle thankyou
do you have any article about this? just for our thesis
poderia anexar a lista de objetos usados, nos comentarios??? derrubaram seu site e nam comsigo encontrar. agradeço.
Isso parece incrível e com todas as garrafas espalhadas, seja de nosso próprio uso ou do que acabamos encontrando nas ruas, é uma ótima ferramenta. Infelizmente, algumas das partes não parecem mais ser mostradas no amazin ou em outros links. Tem algum link de parte alternativa? Também haveria alguma maneira de tornar isso ainda mais compacto? Não sou muito designer nesse aspecto, então nem saberia por onde começar com ideias como essa.
great video. I find the coupling of the filament winder with the motor very practical. one question: can you print well with bowden? because I have a printer with bowden and sometimes I have the problem that the extruder crushes the filament a little with the retractions. use 4mm retraction at a speed of 25mm/s
Hi, thank you. Im printing on my ender 6 without any problems (50mm/sec). The only obsticle is printing back with PLA. When I refill PLA instead PET, sometimes some PET lefting in the nozzle and its clogging with lower temperature...
@@OndrejSraitr if that happens and you have to purge a lot with pla to avoid problems. I have a tronxy xy3pro printer, which to give you an idea, is similar to the ender 3. I see that your printer has a longer bowden tube that is freer, maybe my problem is that when printing and the tube flexes a bit bowden, the filament has more friction and makes the extruder have to make more force and ends up crushing the pet filament. Honestly, I'm reluctant to have to change my printer to direct extrusion and that's why I haven't done it, but I'll see how I can solve my bowden problem. I subscribe to be attentive to modifications and advances in this project. great video
thank you gain. When I start 3d printing was struggling with nozzle clogging a lot (with PLA). My problem was in little gap between the heatbreake and ptf tube end. Then I printed bowden tube coupler fix from thingiverse and cut ptf tube with 3d printed cutter (again from thingiverse) with higher precission thand handmade was. There is no clogging from this. (got this on doth sides exteuder and hotend) The stock bowden couplers are wobbling after short period)
www.thingiverse.com/thing:3840575
This song is 🔥 and you must be so much smarter than me 🤣
I dont think that Im more smarter than anyone else. Song is not my, its from free yt liberary 😂
Awesome! there is any method so you can join multiples filaments/bottles into one?
Hi, sure, there are some methods to join filament. But Im personally using filament runaway sensor to pause print and changing next filament
Cuánto gastaste por todo?
bro this is the fucking future
I know. 😉🤟. This concept needs to bee improved a lot, but the idea is totally amazing 👍
Wow nice work . This amazing . Do u sell them ?
Hi, no. The delivery prices are terrible. Its not possible 🤟
hello , first i want to say , nice build . I'm going to build this one too. I have a question , if I follow the partslist , Thermocontroller W1209 via the link on aliexpress , then I can choose between , W1209 a or W1209 b . Which one do I take? regards
Hi, thats obious problem. Im trying to link something what could be delivered to world wide customers. Im not able to answer this more clerarly than this:
Some models of w1209 has 6 options and some others has 8 options. The diferrence are in their settings for temperature. Wich is fully described in our forum on Petamentor.com .
Other diferrence could be in plastic case that is sometimes oferred. Please chceck all theese options 😉👍
Mrb parçaların listesini paylaşırmısınız 🙏
Great work !! Subscribed but don't see any of the parts links...?
Hi, theyre moved on the website. Its too dificult to change every link when seller sold out his goods. Its more comfortable for me and for you too at the end
Thank for the video and I think that the Great tutorial, makes me want to make one, haha, may I know if you can share the STL file and the wiring diagram. Will appreciate!
Hi, for stl and parts list, please visit petamentor2.com
I have the problem with ender 3.
1) I Upgraded to All metal V6-3D hotend as bowden tube maynot survive with 270 degree hotend temperature.
2) I upgraded the extruder to all metal.
Issue
1) first layer was sometimes on but fails most of the time.
2) Filament crushes and then grinds but not pushed to hotend
3) I tried increasing the tension in extruder, Still it crushes more the filament and even extruder clicks and skipping.
Any one please help me. What i am doing wrong??
Shall i upgrade to dual drive extruder or direct drive? what could be the issue?
my ribbon is 10mm filament is 1.8mm
What happened with Petamentor site? I tried to access and it looks like out of service.
Hello my friend! You site is not working , can you disponibilize a link with the files to stl and schema ? Tank you so much! Nice project!
Wow! Do you have complete tutorial how to assemble it?
No sir😁, Im workin on it... please stand by a few days. Hope you will like it 👌
Yes, now its alive....
Nossa, tantos exemplos exemplos de máquinas feito essa que eu só via os makers complicando algo que era pra ser fácil, imprimindo redução e mais redução pra usar um motor Nema, a controladora de uma impressora. Um puta tambor preso nessas reduções, quando era só usar um motor já com redução que é o mesmo preço que o Nema e poder fazer um tambor menor. Projeto incrível
Thank you 💪
Não consigo acessar o link com as partes (lista de materiais)
Excellent video. A query that you use to regulate the engine speed
Hi, thank you. Speed regulation is done by remoting of fan speed. Its used with regulated buil in PWM for a fan.
awesome! but, what is the recommended size for the tape cut?
Hi, it depends on wall thickness of the bottle. The hest way is to use petamentor mk2, please watch updated machine on my channel😉
Nice ❤️ , i wonder about the smell of the plastic nd how safe is it
Thank you 👌.There is nothing big about the smell of PET. You can barelly smell it while you are making filament. Imho of course. What do you mean abou the safety?
I wonder if you would get even better density by doing a step down process kind like how in metal work they run metal into small and smaller diameter rollers, so maybe get 2 or 3 hot ends, start off with say 4mm then 2mm then the final size, I wonder if that would help get rid of any possible air pockets or roll over and make it a more solid uniform filament? This going to be on my list of projects to make for sure. :)
Hi Dan 😉
I have absolutelly no idea, what are you talking about. My english is not so good, so sometimes I cant fully understand.
Are you talking about multiple hotends that should works something like funnel?
I kind of think no, because the amount of material going in isn't likely going to be enough to form a solid 4mm filament on the output side, or at least not solid enough to hold up to the forces involved with being pulled through a second or third nozzle, without increasing the length of the whole machine substantially to allow the filament to cool somewhat between stages at the same time.
All in all I'm betting better results could be had simply by decreasing the melt temp slightly and slowing down the draw speed, giving the raw material more time to "pool" up in the nozzle, and resulting in a more consistent and solid outflow.
Shoot, thinking more on it, I'm wondering if there might not be a way to help ensure a more reliable outflow by using a motorized extruder arrangement, so instead of relying on tension to draw the material through into a cylindrical shape, it's bunched up in the hotend to form a reservoir, then shoved out the nozzle by more incoming material. The primary issue with the concept is how to "seal" the infeed to prevent backflow. Printers do it by using tight tolerances between the nozzle and the incoming filament, but how would one do that with a flat strip of material instead? Hmmm...
عاش يسطا
Amazing. I never built anything, do you think I can manage?
Thank you. I'm not sure. Come to visit our Facebook group to see problems with building of the others users. I think it's not that hard to build it 😜
Hola amigo, que temperatura se tiene que colocar para fundir en plástico de las botellas?? A mi me marca 100 grados y el plástico no alcanza a fundirse, como puedo subir la temperatura??
Hi, try to watch video with “first run” from petamentor playlist. There is a how to set up a temperature 👍
about how much filament do you get out of a 2 liter bottle? me and my roommates go through about 4 maybe 5 a week and I think it would be cool to turn them into filament rather then tossing them
Hi, Im getting something about 6-7m (never mesure it, only by hands)
hi good work, can you post the Cricut diagram for this
Hi, have you visited link from a description? petamentor.com
All informations can be found there 💪🍓
Hey man, can u share with us which is the diameter of the filament, or what are the details of the print configuration?
Hi, of course:
petamentor.com/forums/forum/diy-filament-for-3d-printing/
There you can find almost everythig. The only problem is, that almost every single bottle has different thicknes, amount of pigmens, some of them are recycled yet. 😁 that means, you can watch the others, but you need to find your own way. Its easy, but you need to learn yourself a bit… thank you for your comment👍
OK, thank you for the help. What is the display on top in the middle?
this is nozzle temperature meter.
@@OndrejSraitr where do you get one?
How i can make the cutter for the bootle i have a printer 1.75mm
th-cam.com/video/Ll8drO8Ux9g/w-d-xo.html 🤪
Awesome video. Thanks for hooking up the community with valuable information and the stl files.
Your link for the "12V Thermomether (up to 800 degrees)" is broken. What is this thermometer for? The heat block has the Thermistor and the W1209 comes with a thermo sensor. Is the thermo sensor the "thermomether (up to 800 degrees) that you plug into the W1209? Also, You didnt mention the screen you're using displaying the temps in the video, nor did you provide a link in the video description for it. At first I thought the screen was the W1209 but then I saw you put that entire device under the table.. so you have two separate screens reading temps.. one youre not using and another you are.. Any reason why you didnt just put the W1209 on top and just use its screen and its buttons to control the temp?
Hi, because w1209 is designed to work only up to 110degrees. There is diode hack to bypass information from thermistor. It means that w1209 is not displaying real value. There is this thermometer for solving it (ability to read real temp on hotend). And thank you👍😁. Im working in a website, still struggling with time. You have to wait a bit, thank you 👍
@@OndrejSraitr yeah I just saw your other video on the thermometer. I’m looking on aliexpress for one now.
I have seen some videos setting the drawing temperature at 210℃ but not the printing temperature
Hi, this temperature is only fir bending pet strip for making filament, its not or melting 👍
I use water bottles, heating leveling out after 1 cm wide, with 210 ℃ wiredrawing, the heated plastic to harden, then insert the extruder set maximum is 256 ℃, the PLA normal out on his head behind wire PET I squeeze just tender is not out of silk, stuck inside only, I want to can solve the silk, related to the thickness of the mineral water bottle? What's wrong? Thank you very much! I can only consult with you
Are you disassembled your nozzle to clean it? 256C is enough I thing. Im printing with 260C.
The machine looks great, but I'm concerned about whether melting PET at high temperatures will produce toxic fumes. I still think PLA material is safer for home use
Hi, "The fumes are not toxic, but it’s always best to ventilate your printing room properly. There are some carbon emissions from the fumes when printing with PET and PETG, but experts have concluded that they pose no significant health risks." Thats what I found about toxicity of fumes. Hope I will die on something else 😁👍
Awesome project. Congratulations! Sadly, Your site since to be down. Thanks for sharing
Hi, so sorry, but site has to be back at the moment 🫡
@@OndrejSraitr many thanks for the quick response
Youre welcome 😉
hello, from how many mm of height do you make the strips of the bottle?
Hi, nice to see you here. 😁👌
This is a long story. Every bottle has different wall thickness. Thats important for strip cutting. Im personally using a 9mm or 7mm strips. But I have to find my own way. Other users are using for their bottles 8mm and 10mm. For exact table of strip thickness please visit Petamentor.com there is a post in forum section dedicated to this question 😉🤟
my friend. What engine did you use to spin the reel?
You can find a complete part list on PETamentor.com
hey if we want to link two bottle , how is it
sorry for bad english
Im doing this with filament runaway sensor on my ender. When is filament running out, print is automatically paused and I can put in another piece of filament. Its a little bit waste (because of rest filament in the bowden), but there are tons of free bottles everywhere around us😁👍. I will try joining filament soon, I discovered something, I think. Will bring it for share, if it will works good.
One question: the W1209 module seems to top out at 110C. Is that enough to reform the filament?
Thank you! and great video!
No, its not. But there is small hack to override it for temperature up to 250C. 😉.. workin on tutorials, please stand by 👍
@@OndrejSraitr Awesome! Subbed and waiting for more :D
thank you 😉👍
I'd like to make this but rather than use the standard heat block and nozzle use a volcano heat block with a custom nozzle. This nozzle would be a 20mm m6x1 bolt with a 3mm hole halfway down, followed by a chamfer and 1.75mm hole for the next half. The idea being the strip would be compressed twice and be heated while in the 1.75mm hole for a longer time. I feel like this would result in more consistent diameter and smaller cavity in the middle of the filament due to the higher level of compression, although I have no actual data to show this is the case. What do you think?
Yes, I love your idea. The continuous chamfer to a nozzle (with nozzle chamfer incuding) gives me sense. Petamentor is waiting for some main updates and this is exacttly what I want to do ♥️.
Im thinking of a new heatblock concept. Your idea is very valuable, thank you for you invention 👍
@@OndrejSraitr How do you determine the width of the strip? Are you calculating how wide it needs to be too fill out the volume of a 1.75mm Cylinder? Do you make it a bit wider than necessary to ensure the cavity in the resulting filament is smaller?
I didnt make any calculations everything was trial/fail and experience and opinions of other builds. From my observations is outputting filament little bit wider than the nozzle hole.
@@OndrejSraitr The filament is probably larger than the hole due to strip being too wide, that extra material has to go somewhere and so is presumably displaced to the sides hence the larger diameter. I say "too wide" but it's probably beneficial and results in a more solid filament strand.